CN103598688B - Western-style clothes chest piece and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Western-style clothes chest piece and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN103598688B CN103598688B CN201310218541.7A CN201310218541A CN103598688B CN 103598688 B CN103598688 B CN 103598688B CN 201310218541 A CN201310218541 A CN 201310218541A CN 103598688 B CN103598688 B CN 103598688B
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 12
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 48
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 230000003068 static effect Effects 0.000 claims description 11
- 241001272720 Medialuna californiensis Species 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000007373 indentation Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000007306 turnover Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 206010053615 Thermal burn Diseases 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000010009 beating Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 8
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000903 blocking effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007704 transition Effects 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of Western-style clothes chest piece and preparation method thereof.Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to provide a kind of Western-style clothes chest piece and preparation method thereof, to solve Men's Suits shape-retaining ability in prior art and the poor problem of comfortableness.The technical scheme solving this problem is: Western-style clothes chest piece, is characterized in that: it comprises the hair interlining isometric with garment piece anter, and the shoulder piece, hair-cloth and the black chest that are stacked in successively on this hair interlining are cotton, and aforementioned four parts are integral by Eight characters pin sewn by hand; The method of the making of chest piece, step is as follows: a, preparation hair interlining, shoulder piece, hair-cloth and black chest cotton; B, fixing hair interlining, shoulder piece and hair-cloth; C, black chest cotton to be fixed on step b gained lining body, then to divide three regions to carry out Eight characters pin sewn by hand successively.The present invention is mainly applicable to garment technology field.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of Western-style clothes chest piece and preparation method thereof, be mainly applicable to garment technology field.
Background technology
The men suit with good shape keeping is the emphasis in men suit manufacture craft, and chest is the important component part of men suit moulding, it is simple that existing men suit manufacture craft solves men suit style of bust method, only by blocking process simply with prick chest piece again and process men suit, shape-retaining ability and the durability of the men suit of making are poor.
Summary of the invention
The technical problem to be solved in the present invention is: provide a kind of Western-style clothes chest piece and preparation method thereof for above-mentioned Problems existing, makes Western-style clothes anter stereoeffect more outstanding, to solve Men's Suits shape-retaining ability in prior art and the poor problem of comfortableness.
The technical solution adopted in the present invention is: Western-style clothes chest piece, it is characterized in that: it comprises the hair interlining isometric with garment piece anter, and the shoulder piece be stacked in successively on this hair interlining, hair-cloth and black chest cotton, aforementioned four parts are integral by Eight characters pin sewn by hand, and make time-division first area, second area and the 3rd region three part are carried out, three regions are that isosceles triangle is arranged, wherein first area is positioned at more than chest line, it makes direction and Western-style clothes chest line parallel, second area and the 3rd region are positioned at below chest line, it is vertical with Western-style clothes chest line that it makes direction, described second area is in the 3rd region and turn between over-lapping stitch.
The base of described hair-cloth and black chest cotton all extends to 1/2 place of Western-style clothes oxter provincial highway.
Beating province's mouth on described chest piece, for the first edge connecting muffs is that 1cm to 1.5cm half moon is economized, and is dark 3cm to 5cm, economizes mouth spelling merga pass cloth and makes fixing.
The distance that described half moon economizes the first edge bottom is 1/3 of whole first edge length.
Beat vertical right angled triangle on described chest piece, below Western-style clothes chest line to economize, province's mouth spelling merga pass cloth is made the fixing chest that formed and is economized, chest dart 0.5cm larger than garment piece chest dart.
Described hair interlining and hair-cloth are horizontal hair typesetting, and black chest cotton is 45 degree of oblique silk typesettings.
The method of the making of chest piece, is characterized in that step is as follows:
A, on the shoulder line of hair interlining, distance muffs line 1/3 takes on line length place and does the dark scissors mouth of 7cm perpendicular to shoulder line; The dark scissors mouth of 7cm is done perpendicular to shoulder line on the shoulder line of shoulder piece, near neck line side; On the shoulder line of hair-cloth, apart from neck line 1/3, take on line length place do the dark scissors mouth of 7cm perpendicular to shoulder line, be that benchmark beats the horizontal edge of a knife of 5cm with broadwise on the muffs line of hair-cloth, the vertical range bottom this horizontal edge of a knife place straight line to hair-cloth scissors mouth is 2cm simultaneously; Each edge of a knife is all pushed certain distance aside and is formed vee;
B, hair interlining, shoulder piece and hair-cloth to be stacked in order, make each indentation 0.5cm in the upper and lower two ends of hair-cloth, then sewn by hand three is parallel to the static line turning over over-lapping stitch, respectively leaves and necessarily eat gesture about making hair-cloth, again by smooth for the lining body edge flatiron after stitching, eat gesture and be dissolved in chest;
C, be layed on hair-cloth by black chest cotton, sewn by hand two is parallel to the temporary fixed line turning over over-lapping stitch, and to serve as a contrast body with step b gained temporary fixed by cotton for black chest; With Eight characters pin sewn by hand, black chest cotton is fixed on step b gained lining body in first area, second area and the 3rd region successively.
On step c gained chest piece, for the first edge connecting muffs, beat province's mouth is that 1cm to 1.5cm half moon is economized, and economizes dark 3cm to 5cm; Below chest line, beat vertical right angled triangle economizes for receiving chest province, chest dart 0.5cm larger than garment piece chest dart simultaneously; Each province's mouth split is also sewed up with cloth Z-shaped sewing machine seam, finally presses and scalds even for the capacity receiving province at chest.
It is described that to turn over over-lapping stitch to the vertical range of static line nearest be with it 2cm; The needle gage of static line is 3cm; The needle gage of Eight characters pin is 1.5cm.
Before step c, wrinkle process is rubbed to black chest cotton; The pin mark that rises in described first area is positioned at this bottom, region near turning over over-lapping stitch side, and narrowing point is positioned at this area top away from turning over over-lapping stitch side; The pin mark that rises of second area is positioned at this area top away from turning over over-lapping stitch side, and narrowing point is positioned at this bottom, region near turning over over-lapping stitch side; The pin mark that rises in the 3rd region is positioned at this area top near turning over over-lapping stitch side, and narrowing point is positioned at this bottom, region away from turning over over-lapping stitch side.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: the present invention pricks lining process by changing, namely sewed up by Eight characters pin in the first area more than chest line, with the direction of making being parallel to chest line, in second area below chest line and the 3rd region, sewed up by Eight characters pin with the direction of making perpendicular to chest line, make men suit anter stereoeffect more outstanding, not only there is excellent appearance, and there is certain moulding durability and comfortableness, thus solve the durability of Men's Suits stereoeffect and the problem of comfortableness.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the size and location relation schematic diagram of hair interlining and anter in the present invention.
Fig. 2 is the size and location relation schematic diagram of hair interlining and shoulder piece in the present invention.
Fig. 3 is the size and location relation schematic diagram of hair interlining and hair-cloth in the present invention.
Fig. 4 is the size and location relation schematic diagram of hair interlining and black chest cotton in the present invention.
Fig. 5 is the structure chart of hair interlining in the present invention.
Fig. 6 is the structure chart of shoulder piece in the present invention.
Fig. 7 is the structure chart of hair-cloth in the present invention.
Fig. 8 is that hair interlining in the present invention, shoulder piece and hair-cloth sew up the structure chart after fixing.。
Fig. 9 is that in the present invention, hair-cloth carries out schematic diagram when eating gesture moulding.
Figure 10 carries out pressing the schematic diagram arranged to hair-cloth in the present invention.
Figure 11 is the schematic diagram superposing black chest cotton in the present invention.
Figure 12 be in the present invention black chest cotton make structure chart.
Figure 13-Figure 16 is the method schematic diagram that chest piece process of the present invention economizes.
Detailed description of the invention
As shown in Fig. 1-Figure 12, the present embodiment Western-style clothes chest piece comprises the hair interlining 1 isometric with garment piece anter 14, and is stacked in shoulder piece 2 on this hair interlining, hair-cloth 3 and black chest cotton 4 successively.
Described hair interlining 1 is horizontal hair typesetting, it is consistent that its warp direction and chest economize direction, and its shape size meets following requirement: be positioned at outline line top distance side seam line (suture of garment piece anter and the lateral plate) 2cm below muffs line, this outline line bottom is apart from side seam line 5cm, and be excessively connected by circular arc between these outline line top and the bottom, basic and garment piece anter 14 contour convergence of all the other outline lines.Described hair interlining 1 is drawn and turns over over-lapping stitch 8.
Described hair-cloth 3 is horizontal hair typesetting, and it is substantially identical that its shoulder line size and hair interlining 1 take on line, and the edge near neck line side is parallel with turning over over-lapping stitch 8, and both spacing are 1cm; Edge line below muffs line is positioned at 1cm place within hair interlining 1 respective wheel profile; Base extends to 1/2 place of Western-style clothes oxter provincial highway, and is connected with the edge line arc transition below muffs line.
Described black chest cotton 4 is 45 degree of oblique silk typesettings, hair-cloth 3 can be covered completely, it is substantially identical that its shoulder line size and hair interlining 1 take on line, near neck line side edge with turn over over-lapping stitch 8 and overlap, the edge line be positioned at below muffs line overlaps with hair interlining 1 respective wheel profile, base shape is substantially identical with hair-cloth 3, and can cover hair-cloth 3 base 1cm.
Described hair interlining 1, shoulder piece 2, hair-cloth 3 and black chest cotton 4 is integral by Eight characters pin sewn by hand, and make time-division first area 11, second area 12 and the 3rd region 13 3 part and carry out, three regions are that isosceles triangle is arranged, wherein first area 11 is positioned at more than chest line, it makes direction and Western-style clothes chest line parallel, second area 12 and the 3rd region 13 are positioned at below chest line, and it is vertical with Western-style clothes chest line that it makes direction, and described second area 12 is in the 3rd region 13 and turn between over-lapping stitch 8.
Beating province's mouth on described chest piece, for the first edge 5 place connecting muffs is that 1cm to 1.5cm half moon economizes 6, is dark 3cm to 5cm (quantitative with human body chest type), economizes mouth spelling merga pass cloth and makes fixing; Described half moon distance economized bottom the 6 to the first edge 5 is 1/3 of whole first edge 5 vertical extension.
On described chest piece, beat vertical right angled triangle below Western-style clothes chest line and economize 7, economize mouth and spell merga pass cloth and make and fixedly make chest and economize, chest dart with according to garment piece chest dart calmly, usual chest dart 0.5cm larger than garment piece chest dart.
The method of the making of the present embodiment chest piece comprises the following steps:
A, beat scissors mouth at hair interlining 1 shoulder, be specially and hair interlining 1 is takeed on line be divided into three equal parts, take on line length place apart from muffs line 1/3 and vertically take on line and do the dark scissors mouth of 7cm and slightly push aside; Do the dark scissors mouth of 7cm perpendicular to shoulder line and slightly push aside on the shoulder line of shoulder piece 2, near neck line side; Hair-cloth 3 shoulder beats scissors mouth, be specially and hair-cloth 3 is takeed on line be divided into three equal parts, play 1/3rd places apart from neck line vertically to take on line and do the dark scissors mouth of 7cm slightly pushing aside, another be that benchmark is beaten the horizontal edge of a knife of 5cm and slightly pushes aside with broadwise on the muffs line of hair-cloth 3, and the vertical range bottom this horizontal edge of a knife place straight line to hair-cloth 3 scissors mouth is 2cm.
B, hair interlining 1, shoulder piece 2 and hair-cloth 3 to be stacked in order, make each indentation 0.5cm in hair-cloth about 3 two ends, then sewn by hand one is parallel to the static line 9 turning over over-lapping stitch 8, this static line is positioned at chest place-saving, needle gage is 3cm/ pin, back stitching withdrawal of needle, narrowing can not be tied a knot, and note the capacity indentation (effect: fixing warp-wise eats gesture) of 1cm altogether up and down simultaneously; Then the hair interlining 1 be fixed together, shoulder piece 2 and hair-cloth 3 are placed on the boiling hot pillow of circular arc above (face to be arched up, fixing in cambered surface, can make to eat gesture naturally to reserve, reduce and make the difficulty of eating gesture, make to eat gesture on average reasonable), carry out the both sides that remaining two static line 9(lay respectively at Article 1 static line, and parallel with turning over over-lapping stitch 8) sewn by hand, hair-cloth about 3 is had and certain eats gesture (effect: fixing broadwise eats gesture); Again by smooth for the lining body edge flatiron after stitching, eat gesture and be dissolved in chest; It is described that to turn over over-lapping stitch 8 to the vertical range of static line 9 nearest be with it 2cm.
C, to be carried out by black chest cotton 4 rubbing wrinkle process, be then layed on hair-cloth 3, sewn by hand two is parallel to the temporary fixed line 10 turning over over-lapping stitch 8, black chest cotton 4 and step b gained is served as a contrast body temporary fixed; Black chest cotton 4 is parallel in turning over 1 inch of place stroke inside over-lapping stitch 8 straight line turning over over-lapping stitch 8 with tailor's chalk, the horizontal line overlapped with chest line is drawn at middle part, in the middle of this horizontal line, downward standardized bar vertical line is divided into two parts by below horizontal line, shoulder and muff part draw corresponding curve according to outline line shape simultaneously, to form first area 11 that Eight characters pin sews up, second area 12 and the 3rd region 13, during line, should be noted that drawn horizontal line need be consistent with the warp weft direction of hair interlining 1 with vertical line.Then with Eight characters pin (needle gage is 1.5cm/ pin) sewn by hand, black chest cotton 4 is fixed on step b gained lining body in first area 11, its method of sewing is for rolling on one side on the other hand, side seam limit pushes away toward chest central point eating gesture, make direction and Western-style clothes chest line parallel, and note making in process and can not tiing a knot, with back stitching withdrawal of needle, narrowing; The pin mark that rises when making is positioned at this bottom, region near turning over over-lapping stitch 8 side, and narrowing point is positioned at this area top away from turning over over-lapping stitch 8 side; After black chest cotton 4 fixes, remove two temporary fixed lines 10.Then in second area 12 and the 3rd region 13, with Eight characters pin, (needle gage is 1.5cm/ pin successively, make direction all vertical with Western-style clothes chest line) black chest cotton 4 is fixed on step b gained and serves as a contrast on body by sewn by hand, its method of sewing is identical with first area 11 (to be eaten gesture be dissolved in chest while rolls to push away, while make), and note making in process and can not tiing a knot, with back stitching withdrawal of needle, narrowing; The pin mark that rises of second area 12 is positioned at this area top away from turning over over-lapping stitch 8 side, and narrowing point is positioned at this bottom, region near turning over over-lapping stitch 8 side; The pin mark that rises in the 3rd region 13 is positioned at this area top near turning over over-lapping stitch 8 side, and narrowing point is positioned at this bottom, region away from turning over over-lapping stitch 8 side.
D, as shown in Figure 13-Figure 16, on step c gained chest piece, for the first edge 5 place connecting muffs, beat province's mouth is that 1cm to 1.5cm half moon economizes 6, economizes dark 3cm to 5cm(quantitative with human body chest type); Below chest line, beat vertical right angled triangle economize 7 and economize for receiving chest simultaneously, chest dart with according to garment piece chest dart calmly, usual chest dart 0.5cm larger than garment piece chest dart; The split of road junction, each province is also sewed up with cloth Z-shaped sewing machine seam, finally presses and scalds even for the capacity receiving province at chest, and forms perfect chest type by returning to dial.
Claims (4)
1. the preparation method of a Western-style clothes chest piece, described Western-style clothes chest piece, it comprises the hair interlining (1) isometric with garment piece anter, and the shoulder piece (2) be stacked in successively on this hair interlining, hair-cloth (3) and black chest cotton (4), aforementioned four parts are integral by Eight characters pin sewn by hand, and make time-division first area (11), second area (12) and the 3rd region (13) three part are carried out, three regions are that isosceles triangle is arranged, wherein first area (11) are positioned at more than chest line, it makes direction and Western-style clothes chest line parallel, second area (12) and the 3rd region (13) are positioned at below chest line, it is vertical with Western-style clothes chest line that it makes direction, described second area (12) is positioned at the 3rd region (13) and turns between over-lapping stitch (8), it is characterized in that described preparation method comprises the steps:
A, on the shoulder line of hair interlining (1), distance muffs line 1/3 takes on line length place and does the dark scissors mouth of 7cm perpendicular to shoulder line; The dark scissors mouth of 7cm is done perpendicular to shoulder line on the shoulder line of shoulder piece (2), near neck line side; On the shoulder line of hair-cloth (3), apart from neck line 1/3, take on line length place do the dark scissors mouth of 7cm perpendicular to shoulder line, be that benchmark beats the horizontal edge of a knife of 5cm with broadwise on the muffs line of hair-cloth (3), the vertical range bottom this horizontal edge of a knife place straight line to hair-cloth (3) scissors mouth is 2cm simultaneously; Each edge of a knife is all pushed certain distance aside and is formed vee;
B, hair interlining (1), shoulder piece (2) and hair-cloth (3) to be stacked in order, make hair-cloth (3) each indentation 0.5cm in two ends up and down, then sewn by hand three is parallel to the static line (9) turning over over-lapping stitch (8), hair-cloth (3) left and right is respectively left and necessarily eats gesture, again by smooth for the lining body edge flatiron after stitching, eat gesture and be dissolved in chest;
C, be layed on hair-cloth (3) by black chest cotton (4), sewn by hand two is parallel to the temporary fixed line (10) turning over over-lapping stitch (8), black chest cotton (4) and step b gained is served as a contrast body temporary fixed; With Eight characters pin sewn by hand, black chest cotton (4) is fixed on step b gained lining body in first area (11), second area (12) and the 3rd region (13) successively.
2. the preparation method of Western-style clothes chest piece according to claim 1, is characterized in that: on step c gained chest piece, for the first edge (5) place connecting muffs, beat province's mouth is that 1cm to 1.5cm half moon economizes (6), economizes dark 3cm to 5cm; Below chest line, beating vertical right angled triangle simultaneously economizing (7) for receiving chest province, chest dart 0.5cm larger than garment piece chest dart; Each province's mouth split is also sewed up with cloth Z word sewing machine seam, finally presses and scalds even for the capacity receiving province at chest.
3. the preparation method of Western-style clothes chest piece according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described in turn over over-lapping stitch (8) to the vertical range of static line (9) nearest be with it 2cm; The needle gage of static line (9) is 3cm; The needle gage of Eight characters pin is 1.5cm.
4. the preparation method of Western-style clothes chest piece according to claim 1, is characterized in that: before step c, rubs wrinkle process to black chest cotton (4); The pin mark that rises in described first area (11) is positioned at this bottom, region near turning over over-lapping stitch (8) side, and narrowing point is positioned at this area top away from turning over over-lapping stitch (8) side; The pin mark that rises of second area (12) is positioned at this area top away from turning over over-lapping stitch (8) side, and narrowing point is positioned at this bottom, region near turning over over-lapping stitch (8) side; The pin mark that rises in the 3rd region (13) is positioned at this area top near turning over over-lapping stitch (8) side, and narrowing point is positioned at this bottom, region away from turning over over-lapping stitch (8) side.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201310218541.7A CN103598688B (en) | 2013-06-04 | 2013-06-04 | Western-style clothes chest piece and preparation method thereof |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201310218541.7A CN103598688B (en) | 2013-06-04 | 2013-06-04 | Western-style clothes chest piece and preparation method thereof |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN103598688A CN103598688A (en) | 2014-02-26 |
| CN103598688B true CN103598688B (en) | 2015-10-14 |
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| CN201310218541.7A Expired - Fee Related CN103598688B (en) | 2013-06-04 | 2013-06-04 | Western-style clothes chest piece and preparation method thereof |
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Families Citing this family (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104605564B (en) * | 2014-12-31 | 2016-11-30 | 吴国英 | A kind of chest piece method of sewing of Western-style clothes or overcoat |
| CN106072959B (en) * | 2016-06-22 | 2018-08-10 | 老合兴洋服（杭州）有限公司 | A kind of preceding chest piece sewn by hand method made for high-grade Western-style clothes or overcoat |
| CN107307492B (en) * | 2017-06-05 | 2019-02-19 | 山东如意毛纺服装集团股份有限公司 | A kind of method of sewing of the sleeve preventing sleeve tuft and sleeve item lining one |
| CN108903098A (en) * | 2018-08-20 | 2018-11-30 | 宁波培罗成股份有限公司 | A kind of pair of shoulder distance between two shoulders more stable square one's shoulders lining and its method for platemaking |
| CN112471648A (en) * | 2020-11-23 | 2021-03-12 | 蓝豹股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing three-dimensional lapel of western-style clothes |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1481220A (en) * | 2001-02-01 | 2004-03-10 | 金顺善 | Interlining for suit and method for making suit by using same |
| CN201164031Y (en) * | 2008-03-17 | 2008-12-17 | 温州庄吉集团工业园区有限公司 | Liner structure of business suit jacket |
| CN202800238U (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2013-03-20 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Men's suit chest interlining |
| CN202842459U (en) * | 2012-11-14 | 2013-04-03 | 山东仙霞服装有限公司 | Semi-linen lining western-style clothes |
| CN203369420U (en) * | 2013-06-04 | 2014-01-01 | 老合兴洋服（杭州）有限公司 | Chest interlining of business suit |
-
2013
- 2013-06-04 CN CN201310218541.7A patent/CN103598688B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1481220A (en) * | 2001-02-01 | 2004-03-10 | 金顺善 | Interlining for suit and method for making suit by using same |
| CN201164031Y (en) * | 2008-03-17 | 2008-12-17 | 温州庄吉集团工业园区有限公司 | Liner structure of business suit jacket |
| CN202800238U (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2013-03-20 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Men's suit chest interlining |
| CN202842459U (en) * | 2012-11-14 | 2013-04-03 | 山东仙霞服装有限公司 | Semi-linen lining western-style clothes |
| CN203369420U (en) * | 2013-06-04 | 2014-01-01 | 老合兴洋服（杭州）有限公司 | Chest interlining of business suit |
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| CN103598688A (en) | 2014-02-26 |
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