CN105495730A - Rising-preventing sleeve stitching production method of suit - Google Patents

Rising-preventing sleeve stitching production method of suit Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105495730A
CN105495730A CN201510944401.7A CN201510944401A CN105495730A CN 105495730 A CN105495730 A CN 105495730A CN 201510944401 A CN201510944401 A CN 201510944401A CN 105495730 A CN105495730 A CN 105495730A
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China
Prior art keywords
sleeve
muffs
seam
shoulder
lining
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CN201510944401.7A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN105495730B (en
Inventor
叶志义
温正延
尤建标
尤连英
邱君品
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Wenzhou Zhuangji Clothes Co Ltd
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Wenzhou Zhuangji Clothes Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201510944401.7A priority Critical patent/CN105495730B/en
Publication of CN105495730A publication Critical patent/CN105495730A/en
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/02Jackets
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10Sleeves; Armholes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D3/00Overgarments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A41H43/02Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a suit production technology, in particular to a rising-preventing sleeve stitching production method of a suit. The method comprises steps as follows: 1) whether a muff ring and a sleeve are smooth or not is checked, a cut is aligned, and a main body is located under the sleeve; the sleeve is stitched according to a sleeve easing distribution diagram, the sleeve and main body grains are placed upright, and left and right easing is symmetrical; 2) the muff ring is ironed; 3) sleeve top check rods are pulled; 4) sleeve caps are pressed; 5) the sleeve caps are cut; 6) the sleeve caps are pressed; 7) a chest is held and a shoulder pad is stitched; 8) a sleeve sliver is stitched; 9) a muff lining is fixed; 10) muff lining cloth is cut and the lower part of the muff lining is stitched; 11) the upper part of the muff lining is stitched; 12) the sleeve lining is sealed. With the adoption of the steps of the method, the phenomenon that the sleeve top rises straight up is eliminated, and the effect that the sleeve top slides is realized.

Description

The anti-upper shoulder of a kind of western-style clothes sets in sleeve preparation method
Technical field
The present invention relates to Western-style clothes manufacture craft, particularly relate to the anti-upper shoulder of a kind of western-style clothes and set in sleeve preparation method.
Background technology
Along with the development in epoch and the progressively raising of human living standard, consumer is except also progressively improving the outward appearance of clothes and quality.End consumers also proposes requirements at the higher level to the technique of male western-style clothes, overall appearance, the requirement of mountain technique of especially tucking inside the sleeve.
The trend of existing male western-style clothes popular " sleeve mountain glides ", and current men's clothing sleeve mountain technique still uses conventional methods, and this technique often produces the phenomenon that sleeve mountain is alarmmed, and " downslide of sleeve mountain " effect can not be reached.
Summary of the invention
In order to solve above technical barrier, the object of the invention provides the anti-upper shoulder of a kind of western-style clothes and sets in sleeve preparation method, solves on sleeve mountain and alarms phenomenon, reaches sleeve mountain sliding shoulder effect.
In order to realize above-mentioned object, present invention employs following technical scheme:
The anti-upper shoulder of a kind of western-style clothes sets in sleeve preparation method, and the method comprises the following steps:
1), check that whether muffs circle and sleeve smoother, aligning clip, greatly under, sleeve is upper; Eat gesture distribution map by sleeve to set in sleeve, sleeve and bodice silk tuft are put and are rectified, and gesture symmetry is eaten in left and right;
2), scald muffs circle: muffs circle to be placed on mould greatly under, muffs circle reverse side upward, is convinced by the gesture position normalized hot of eating of iron by sleeve after air draught, can not be had pleating image;
3), sleeve mountain is drawn to take the lead bar: under front shoulder seam, the second clip position beat clip vertical with the position of length identical with front clip under rear shoulder seam only sets in sleeve line root, 0.5-1.5cm place above these two clips, respectively on sleeve sheet make a call to a clip and only set in sleeve line root, 2-3cm under the bodice clip of front and back, check rod is upper, greatly under, levels pendulum is neat, between bodice front and rear panel clip, seize line and set in sleeve together with line overlap flush joint, check rod tensionless winkler foundation, middle without wiring, finally by the check rod below the bodice clip of front and back with the clip of tucking inside the sleeve on sheet for turning point, be folded to below sleeve sheet, seize line to fix, seize line and set in sleeve line overlap, joint is straight,
4), dividing potential drop sleeve top: sleeve mountain reverse side is put upward, seam position will be set in sleeve with hand and stitch position with sleeve mountain check rod and rive to both sides, tuck inside the sleeve to stitch on position press white line apart from setting in sleeve line 0.2-0.4cm;
5), sleeve top is pruned: reverse side is translated on sleeve mountain, with scissors, layered suture position on sleeve margin to seam is pruned away 1/2, cut level;
6) pressing sleeve top: left and right sleeve top reverse side is placed on shoulder pressing die tool upward, and arrange silk tuft around shoulder seam, pleating image can not be there is, straight rear air draught put by silk tuft, sleeve top stitched position and divides the clothes that plate, straight, then fix below clothes with hand with iron, with press pressing shoulder, finally check that whether sleeve top smoother, before and after shoulder silk tuft whether straight, be convinced, then use iron position not in place;
7) shirtfront, stitch the sole to the upper shoulder pad is hugged: muffs hypomere before face aligns with chest piece cutter eye and fixes by reverse side, again by relative with shoulder seam on chest piece " ten " word for crop summit tie rod cutter eye, and by fixing for justified margin shoulder point position, shoulder seam can not be shifted front and back, aim at chest piece clip bottom muffs, then pull open chest piece two-layer consistent with fabric, make and stick up shoulder amount; Translate into Mo Ping shirtfront, front, fixing shoulder seam and front muffs, alignment is filled into back sleeve 2-4cm, then translates into reverse side back sleeve, and by back sleeve pine 0.5-0.7cm, put by shoulder pad suitable, reverse side is fixed;
8) sliver is set in sleeve: sleeve position, inseam position withdrawal of needle placed by sliver of tucking inside the sleeve during withdrawal of needle, one week is seized from setting in sleeve line 0.1-0.2cm, and unnecessary seam position and shoulder pad are cut away, the clip alignment of sleeve mountain, foresleeve mountain sleeve sliver pine 1-2cm, rear sleeve mountain sleeve sliver pine 0.5-1.5cm, it is consistent with right sleeve that left sleeve eats gesture position from back to front;
9), fix in muffs: muffs size in check face, abjugal suture, side seam length, first in face, a few pin is fixed in side seam position, and left muffs is by abjugal suture withdrawal of needle, and right muffs is by side seam withdrawal of needle, and lining slightly pine fixes one week;
10), prune muffs lining, set in sleeve bottom in cage: muffs lining is routed up, with scissors, peripheral for lining unnecessary amount is pruned away neat facial, routed up by muffs lining, out-seam in aligning surface, inner sleeve, predecessor is upper, in sleeve under, left sleeve is seized to front mid-arnhole point by rear sleeve length seam withdrawal of needle, and apart from setting in sleeve line 0.1-0.3cm, lining is pine slightly, rout up sleeve front, right sleeve from front to back way with left sleeve;
11), set in sleeve cage lining top: sleeve is routed up reverse side by inseam opening of tucking inside the sleeve, left sleeve seizes line by after front mid-arnhole point, and wiring is smooth and easy, and sleeve mountain lining eats gesture evenly, and right sleeve operation is with left sleeve;
12), Feng Xiuli: sleeve lining inseam opening is routed up, seizes sealing by 0.1-0.2cm margin to seam folder.
The present invention, owing to have employed above-mentioned method step, solves on sleeve mountain and alarms phenomenon, reaches sleeve mountain sliding shoulder effect.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is take the lead bar structural representation in sleeve mountain of drawing of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is take the lead bar structural representation in sleeve mountain of drawing of the present invention.
Fig. 3 of the present inventionly hugs shirtfront structural representation.
Fig. 4 is stitch the sole to the upper shoulder pad structural representation of the present invention.
Fig. 5 of the present inventionly sets in sleeve sliver structural representation.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, the specific embodiment of the present invention is made a detailed explanation.
The anti-upper shoulder of a kind of western-style clothes sets in sleeve preparation method, and the method comprises the following steps:
1), check that whether muffs circle and sleeve smoother, aligning clip, greatly under, sleeve is upper; Eat gesture distribution map by sleeve to set in sleeve, sleeve and bodice silk tuft are put and are rectified, and gesture symmetry is eaten in left and right;
2), scald muffs circle: muffs circle to be placed on mould greatly under, muffs circle reverse side upward, is convinced by the gesture position normalized hot of eating of iron by sleeve after air draught, can not be had pleating image;
3), sleeve mountain is drawn to take the lead bar: as shown in Figure 1, under front shoulder seam, the second clip position 1 beat clip vertical with the position of length identical with front clip under rear shoulder seam only sets in sleeve line root 2, 1cm place above these two clips, respectively on sleeve sheet make a call to a clip and only set in sleeve line root 3, 2cm under the bodice clip of front and back, check rod is upper, greatly under, levels pendulum is neat, between bodice front and rear panel clip, seize line and set in sleeve together with line overlap flush joint, check rod tensionless winkler foundation, middle without wiring, finally by the check rod below the bodice clip of front and back with the clip of tucking inside the sleeve on sheet for turning point, be folded to below sleeve sheet, seize line to fix, seize line and set in sleeve line overlap, joint is straight,
4), dividing potential drop sleeve top: as shown in Figure 2, sleeve mountain reverse side is put upward, seam position will be set in sleeve with hand and stitch position with sleeve mountain check rod and rive to both sides, tuck inside the sleeve to stitch on position press white line 4 apart from setting in sleeve line 0.3cm;
5), sleeve top is pruned: reverse side is translated on sleeve mountain, with scissors, layered suture position on sleeve margin to seam is pruned away 1/2, cut level;
6) pressing sleeve top: left and right sleeve top reverse side is placed on shoulder pressing die tool upward, and arrange silk tuft around shoulder seam, pleating image can not be there is, straight rear air draught put by silk tuft, sleeve top stitched position and divides the clothes that plate, straight, then fix below clothes with hand with iron, with press pressing shoulder, finally check that whether sleeve top smoother, before and after shoulder silk tuft whether straight, be convinced, then use iron position not in place;
7) shirtfront, stitch the sole to the upper shoulder pad is hugged: as Fig. 3, shown in 4, muffs hypomere before face aligns with chest piece cutter eye and fixes by reverse side, again by relative with shoulder seam on chest piece " ten " word 5 for crop summit tie rod cutter eye, and by fixing for justified margin shoulder point position, shoulder seam can not be shifted front and back, aim at chest piece clip bottom muffs, then pull open chest piece two-layer consistent with fabric, make and stick up shoulder amount; Translate into Mo Ping shirtfront, front, fixing shoulder seam and front muffs, alignment 6 is filled into back sleeve 3cm, then translates into reverse side back sleeve, and by back sleeve pine 0.5cm, put by shoulder pad suitable, reverse side is fixed;
8) sliver is set in sleeve: as shown in Figure 5, sleeve position 7, inseam position withdrawal of needle placed by sliver of tucking inside the sleeve during withdrawal of needle, one week is seized from setting in sleeve line 0.1cm, and unnecessary seam position and shoulder pad are cut away, the clip alignment of sleeve mountain, foresleeve mountain sleeve sliver pine 1cm, rear sleeve mountain sleeve sliver pine 1cm, it is consistent with right sleeve that left sleeve eats gesture position from back to front;
9), fix in muffs: muffs size in check face, abjugal suture, side seam length, first in face, a few pin is fixed in side seam position, and left muffs is by abjugal suture withdrawal of needle, and right muffs is by side seam withdrawal of needle, and lining slightly pine fixes one week;
10), prune muffs lining, set in sleeve bottom in cage: muffs lining is routed up, with scissors, peripheral for lining unnecessary amount is pruned away neat facial, routed up by muffs lining, out-seam in aligning surface, inner sleeve, predecessor is upper, in sleeve under, left sleeve is seized to front mid-arnhole point by rear sleeve length seam withdrawal of needle, and apart from setting in sleeve line 0.2cm, lining is pine slightly, rout up sleeve front, right sleeve from front to back way with left sleeve;
11), set in sleeve cage lining top: sleeve is routed up reverse side by inseam opening of tucking inside the sleeve, left sleeve seizes line by after front mid-arnhole point, and wiring is smooth and easy, and sleeve mountain lining eats gesture evenly, and right sleeve operation is with left sleeve;
12), Feng Xiuli: sleeve lining inseam opening is routed up, seizes sealing by 0.1cm margin to seam folder.

Claims (1)

1. the anti-upper shoulder of western-style clothes sets in sleeve a preparation method, and it is characterized in that, the method comprises the following steps:
1), check that whether muffs circle and sleeve smoother, aligning clip, greatly under, sleeve is upper; Eat gesture distribution map by sleeve to set in sleeve, sleeve and bodice silk tuft are put and are rectified, and gesture symmetry is eaten in left and right;
2), scald muffs circle: muffs circle to be placed on mould greatly under, muffs circle reverse side upward, is convinced by the gesture position normalized hot of eating of iron by sleeve after air draught, can not be had pleating image;
3), sleeve mountain is drawn to take the lead bar: under front shoulder seam, the second clip position (1) is vertical with the position of length identical with front clip under rear shoulder seam beats clip and only set in sleeve line root (2), 0.5-1.5cm place above these two clips, respectively on sleeve sheet make a call to a clip and only set in sleeve line root (3), 2-3cm under the bodice clip of front and back, check rod is upper, greatly under, levels pendulum is neat, between bodice front and rear panel clip, seize line and set in sleeve together with line overlap flush joint, check rod tensionless winkler foundation, middle without wiring, finally by the check rod below the bodice clip of front and back with the clip of tucking inside the sleeve on sheet for turning point, be folded to below sleeve sheet, seize line to fix, seize line and set in sleeve line overlap, joint is straight,
4), dividing potential drop sleeve top: sleeve mountain reverse side is put upward, seam position will be set in sleeve with hand and stitch position with sleeve mountain check rod and rive to both sides, tuck inside the sleeve to stitch on position press white line (4) apart from setting in sleeve line 0.2-0.4cm;
5), sleeve top is pruned: reverse side is translated on sleeve mountain, with scissors, layered suture position on sleeve margin to seam is pruned away 1/2, cut level;
6) pressing sleeve top: left and right sleeve top reverse side is placed on shoulder pressing die tool upward, and arrange silk tuft around shoulder seam, pleating image can not be there is, straight rear air draught put by silk tuft, sleeve top stitched position and divides the clothes that plate, straight, then fix below clothes with hand with iron, with press pressing shoulder, finally check that whether sleeve top smoother, before and after shoulder silk tuft whether straight, be convinced, then use iron position not in place;
7) shirtfront, stitch the sole to the upper shoulder pad is hugged: muffs hypomere before face aligns with chest piece cutter eye and fixes by reverse side, again by relative with shoulder seam on chest piece " ten " word (5) for crop summit tie rod cutter eye, and by fixing for justified margin shoulder point position, shoulder seam can not be shifted front and back, aim at chest piece clip bottom muffs, then pull open chest piece two-layer consistent with fabric, make and stick up shoulder amount; Translate into Mo Ping shirtfront, front, fixing shoulder seam and front muffs, alignment (6) is filled into back sleeve 2-4cm, then translates into reverse side back sleeve, and by back sleeve pine 0.5-0.7cm, put by shoulder pad suitable, reverse side is fixed;
8) sliver is set in sleeve: sleeve position, inseam position (7) withdrawal of needle placed by sliver of tucking inside the sleeve during withdrawal of needle, one week is seized from setting in sleeve line 0.1-0.2cm, and unnecessary seam position and shoulder pad are cut away, the clip alignment of sleeve mountain, foresleeve mountain sleeve sliver pine 1-2cm, rear sleeve mountain sleeve sliver pine 0.5-1.5cm, it is consistent with right sleeve that left sleeve eats gesture position from back to front;
9), fix in muffs: muffs size in check face, abjugal suture, side seam length, first in face, a few pin is fixed in side seam position, and left muffs is by abjugal suture withdrawal of needle, and right muffs is by side seam withdrawal of needle, and lining slightly pine fixes one week;
10), prune muffs lining, set in sleeve bottom in cage: muffs lining is routed up, with scissors, peripheral for lining unnecessary amount is pruned away neat facial, routed up by muffs lining, out-seam in aligning surface, inner sleeve, predecessor is upper, in sleeve under, left sleeve is seized to front mid-arnhole point by rear sleeve length seam withdrawal of needle, and apart from setting in sleeve line 0.1-0.3cm, lining is pine slightly, rout up sleeve front, right sleeve from front to back way with left sleeve;
11), set in sleeve cage lining top: sleeve is routed up reverse side by inseam opening of tucking inside the sleeve, left sleeve seizes line by after front mid-arnhole point, and wiring is smooth and easy, and sleeve mountain lining eats gesture evenly, and right sleeve operation is with left sleeve;
12), Feng Xiuli: sleeve lining inseam opening is routed up, seizes sealing by 0.1-0.2cm margin to seam folder.
CN201510944401.7A 2015-12-16 2015-12-16 A kind of anti-upper shoulder of western-style clothes sets in sleeve preparation method Active CN105495730B (en)

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106666905A (en) * 2016-12-08 2017-05-17 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Sewing method for making clean of sewing head of top grade clothing
CN108497594A (en) * 2018-02-02 2018-09-07 蓝豹股份有限公司 A kind of method of normalized hot muffs
CN109846128A (en) * 2018-12-27 2019-06-07 吴国英 The smart seam method of the advanced jacket of customization by hand
CN110353325A (en) * 2018-04-02 2019-10-22 浙江雅莹集团有限公司 Women's dress jacket and its processing method
CN112471626A (en) * 2020-11-24 2021-03-12 上海沙驰服饰有限公司 Three-dimensional light suit

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2006257611A (en) * 2005-03-16 2006-09-28 Soreirasu Company:Kk Triangle sleeve (method for forming three-dimensional sleeve having ease and facilitating moving by switching body and sleeve with wedge-shaped triangle uneven form of different form)
KR20060131148A (en) * 2005-06-15 2006-12-20 박영철 Manufacturing method of suit
CN101816468A (en) * 2010-05-11 2010-09-01 常州普灵仕制衣有限公司 Sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes
CN203801817U (en) * 2014-04-29 2014-09-03 北京格雷服装服饰有限公司 Sleeve of suit for men and suit with same
CN203801818U (en) * 2014-04-30 2014-09-03 北京威克多制衣中心 Hanging inclined-crinkle-free suit sleeve and suit comprising same
JP2015030933A (en) * 2013-08-02 2015-02-16 グンゼ株式会社 Clothing for upper half body
CN104366854A (en) * 2014-11-05 2015-02-25 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Business suit sleeve positioning and sewing method

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2006257611A (en) * 2005-03-16 2006-09-28 Soreirasu Company:Kk Triangle sleeve (method for forming three-dimensional sleeve having ease and facilitating moving by switching body and sleeve with wedge-shaped triangle uneven form of different form)
KR20060131148A (en) * 2005-06-15 2006-12-20 박영철 Manufacturing method of suit
CN101816468A (en) * 2010-05-11 2010-09-01 常州普灵仕制衣有限公司 Sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes
JP2015030933A (en) * 2013-08-02 2015-02-16 グンゼ株式会社 Clothing for upper half body
CN203801817U (en) * 2014-04-29 2014-09-03 北京格雷服装服饰有限公司 Sleeve of suit for men and suit with same
CN203801818U (en) * 2014-04-30 2014-09-03 北京威克多制衣中心 Hanging inclined-crinkle-free suit sleeve and suit comprising same
CN104366854A (en) * 2014-11-05 2015-02-25 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Business suit sleeve positioning and sewing method

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106666905A (en) * 2016-12-08 2017-05-17 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Sewing method for making clean of sewing head of top grade clothing
CN108497594A (en) * 2018-02-02 2018-09-07 蓝豹股份有限公司 A kind of method of normalized hot muffs
CN110353325A (en) * 2018-04-02 2019-10-22 浙江雅莹集团有限公司 Women's dress jacket and its processing method
CN110353325B (en) * 2018-04-02 2024-05-28 雅莹集团股份有限公司 Women's jacket and processing method thereof
CN109846128A (en) * 2018-12-27 2019-06-07 吴国英 The smart seam method of the advanced jacket of customization by hand
CN112471626A (en) * 2020-11-24 2021-03-12 上海沙驰服饰有限公司 Three-dimensional light suit
CN112471626B (en) * 2020-11-24 2023-03-28 上海沙驰服饰有限公司 Three-dimensional light suit

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