CN103445357B - A kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar - Google Patents
A kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar Download PDFInfo
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- CN103445357B CN103445357B CN201310415782.0A CN201310415782A CN103445357B CN 103445357 B CN103445357 B CN 103445357B CN 201310415782 A CN201310415782 A CN 201310415782A CN 103445357 B CN103445357 B CN 103445357B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar, comprise the steps: to stack bottom collar lining and collar bottom wool fabric; Fixing bottom collar lining and collar bottom wool fabric; At collar bottom wool fabric pull-up neck seat line; Neck bar is sewed up; Peng stitches top collar; Neck seat is turned down out along collar site line; Collar and bodice are sewed up, and complete the making of collar.The present invention adopts technique scheme: bottom collar lining does not adopt disposable high temperature adhesives lining technique with collar bottom wool fabric, but adopt the manual suture technique of top collar and lining, make collar that hot iron need not be adopted just naturally to overturn, the nature of fabric can be kept, save energy resource consumption to reduce production cost.Collar site line adopts two ends to beat clip, bottom collar broken line was both played, can be controlled again, guarantees that neck is refuted and forms well-pressed nature, and coincide with neck, degree of tightness appropriateness fluent form.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to Western-style clothes manufacture field, relate to a kind of Western-style clothes collar specifically
Manufacture craft.
Background technology
The exquisite fit high-grade Western-style clothes of a set of workmanship has become the external embodiment of successful personage's taste and quality, and the collar technique of Men's Suits directly decides the full suitable subsides degree of Western-style clothes split head, collar in a whole set of Western-style clothes technique.In traditional handicraft in the past, general employing is to the technique that collar carries out adhesive lining bonding, the handset of use is sewed up, this traditional handicraft in use, collar, split head need hot iron just can turn up, and destroy the texture of fabric fibr tissue, easily occur that neck angle warps, split head plays the problems such as empty.
Summary of the invention
The technical problem to be solved in the present invention is for the deficiencies in the prior art, provides one to make neck
Son is more along pasting, and radian is suitable for, and third dimension is strong, guarantees that neck is refuted and forms well-pressed nature, and coincide with neck, the manufacture craft of the Western-style clothes collar of degree of tightness appropriateness fluent form.
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention by the following technical solutions: a kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar, comprises the steps:
A, stack bottom collar lining and collar bottom wool fabric;
B, fixing bottom collar lining and collar bottom wool fabric;
C, at collar bottom wool fabric pull-up neck seat line;
D, neck bar are sewed up;
E, Peng stitch top collar;
F, turn down out neck seat along collar site line;
G, collar and bodice are sewed up, and complete the making of collar.
Below further improvement of the present invention:
When stacking in step a, bottom collar lining is than the reduced circumference 0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric, and outer neckline then needs the wide 0.1cm of going out to be the seam position of top collar.
Further improvement:
In step b, the outer neckline 1.5cm place hook of distance collar bottom wool fabric is seized open-wire line and is fixed bottom collar lining and collar bottom wool fabric, cements within open-wire line with flatiron, and outer neckline is open and clear not to be bonded in order to plug top collar.
Further improvement:
Along leading seat line scissors eye after pulling neck seat line in step c, cotton connection is drawn in the position along neck seat line between cutter eye, starts the even 0.4cm in shoulder seam place, beat 1cm clip at collar site line two ends by cutter eye position.
Further improvement:
In steps d, neck bar is set along neck seat line, eats into 0.3-0.4cm by cutter eye position high-ranking military officer's bar, neck bar presses open-wire line.
Further improvement:
During Peng seam, top collar is jumped the queue between collar bottom wool fabric and bottom collar serve as a contrast in step e, by hand pin location, stitch machine Peng seam with Peng.
Further improvement:
Between neck seat and top collar, bottom collar broken line is formed in step f.
Further improvement:
The extended line of the split head broken line formed with the split head on bodice and its by bottom collar broken line when sewing up in step g overlaps.
The present invention adopts technique scheme: bottom collar lining does not adopt disposable high temperature adhesives lining technique with collar bottom wool fabric, but adopt the manual suture technique of top collar and lining, make collar that hot iron need not be adopted just naturally to overturn, the nature of fabric can be kept, save energy resource consumption to reduce production cost.Collar site line adopts two ends to beat clip, bottom collar broken line was both played, can be controlled again, guarantees that neck is refuted and forms well-pressed nature, and coincide with neck, degree of tightness appropriateness fluent form.
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, technical scheme of the present invention is described further.
Accompanying drawing explanation
accompanying drawing 1 serves as a contrast the schematic diagram coordinated with collar bottom wool fabric for bottom collar;
The schematic diagram that accompanying drawing 2 is sewed up with collar bottom wool fabric for bottom collar lining;
Accompanying drawing 3 is schematic diagram when leading seat line and cotton connection to arrange;
Accompanying drawing 4 is schematic diagram when leading bar to make;
Accompanying drawing 5 is schematic diagram when top collar is made;
Accompanying drawing 6 is for turning over schematic diagram during collar;
Accompanying drawing 7 is collar of the present invention and clothing body schematic diagram when sewing up.
In figure: 1-collar bottom wool fabric; 2-bottom collar serves as a contrast; 3-open-wire line; 4-leads seat line; 5-cotton connection; 6-clip; 7-cutter eye; 8-leads bar; 9-top collar; 10-split head; 11-split head broken line; 12-bottom collar broken line; 13-leads seat; 14-bodice; The outer neckline of 15-.
Detailed description of the invention
Embodiment, as shown in figs. 1-7, a kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar, comprises the steps:
A, stack bottom collar lining 2 and collar bottom wool fabric 1, when stacking, bottom collar lining 2 is than the reduced circumference 0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric 1, and outer neckline then needs the wide 0.1cm of going out to be the seam position of top collar.
The outer neckline 1.5cm place hook of b, distance collar bottom wool fabric 1 is seized open-wire line 3 and is fixed end liner 2 and collar bottom wool fabric 1, cements within open-wire line 3 with flatiron, and outer neckline is open and clear not to be bonded in order to plug top collar 9.
C, at collar bottom wool fabric 1 pull-up neck seat line 4, along neck seat line 4 scissors eye 7, cotton connection 5 is drawn in the position along neck seat line 4 between cutter eye 7, starts the even 0.4cm in shoulder seam place, beat 1cm clip 6 at collar site line two ends by cutter eye 7 position.
D, neck bar are sewed up, and arrange neck bar 8, eat into 0.3 ~ 0.4cm by cutter eye 7 position high-ranking military officer's bar 8, neck bar 8 pressing open-wire line, going back wrinkling without drawing along neck seat line 4.
E, Peng stitch top collar 9, and top collar 9 being jumped the queue serves as a contrast between 2 at collar bottom wool fabric 1 and bottom collar, by hand pin location, stitch machine Peng seam with Peng.The front edge is uneven of top collar connects and contacts with top collar 9 and make top collar 9 without the impression of crack, and feel is level and smooth.Common Western-style clothes headman skill, after collar bottom wool fabric adhesive lining, handset that is direct and top collar use is sewed up, and top collar has the impression of margin to seam.
F, turn over shaping, turn down out neck seat 13 along collar site line 4, between neck seat 13 and top collar 9, form bottom collar broken line 12.
G, collar and bodice 14 is sewed up, the extended line of the split head broken line 11 formed with bodice 14 and the split head 10 on it by bottom collar broken line 12 during stitching overlaps, this structure makes split head broken line 11 and bottom collar broken line 12 produce to refute power effect to guarantee collar, the well-pressed nature of split head 10, and coincide with neck, degree of tightness appropriateness is suitable, fluent form.
Described bottom collar lining 2 adopts TC2133-26B to lead core lining, this lining stock is polyester-cotton blend, yarn count 25.6 × 25.6, density 162 × 157, TC2133-26B lining is different from general adhesive lining, to be this lining pressing temperature be 100-120 DEG C to feature does not need pressure lining machine high temperature adhesives, and common collar technique, bottom collar lining pressing temperature 140-145 DEG C will carry out the bonding of high-temperature high-pressure lining, so TC2133-26B leads core lining effectively can reduce collar pressure lining operation, increase operating efficiency, economize energy.
1cm clip is beaten at collar site line 4 two ends, and when turning over shaping, bottom collar broken line 12 will produce to refute power effect and collar is overturn naturally and coordinate with split head broken line 11 phase.
Claims (1)
1. a manufacture craft for Western-style clothes collar, is characterized in that: comprise the steps:
A, stack bottom collar lining (2) and collar bottom wool fabric (1);
B, fixing bottom collar lining (2) and collar bottom wool fabric (1), the outer neckline 1.5cm place hook of distance collar bottom wool fabric (1) seizes fixing bottom collar lining (2) of open-wire line (3) and collar bottom wool fabric (1), open-wire line cements with flatiron within (3), and outer neckline is open and clear not to be bonded in order to plug top collar (9);
C, collar bottom wool fabric (1) pull-up neck seat line (4);
D, neck bar (8) are sewed up;
E, Peng stitch top collar (9), and top collar (9) being jumped the queue during Peng seam in step e serves as a contrast between (2) at collar bottom wool fabric (1) and bottom collar, and pin location by hand, stitches machine Peng seam with Peng;
F, turn down out neck seat (13) along collar site line (4);
G, collar and bodice (14) are sewed up, and complete the making of collar;
When stacking in step a, bottom collar lining (2) is than reduced circumference 0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric (1), and outer neckline then needs the wide 0.1cm of going out to be the seam position of top collar;
Neck seat line (4) is pulled afterwards along neck seat line (4) scissors eye (7) in step c, cotton connection (5) is drawn in position along neck seat line (4) between cutter eye (7), start the even 0.4cm in shoulder seam place by cutter eye (7) position, beat 1cm clip (6) at collar site line two ends;
In steps d, neck bar (8) is set along neck seat line (4), eats into 0.3-0.4cm by cutter eye (7) position high-ranking military officer's bar (8), neck bar (8) presses open-wire line;
Between neck seat (13) and top collar (9), bottom collar broken line (12) is formed in step f;
The extended line of the split head broken line (11) formed with bodice (14) and the split head on it (10) by bottom collar broken line (12) when sewing up in step g overlaps;
Described bottom collar lining (2) adopts TC2133-26B to lead core lining, and this lining stock is polyester-cotton blend, yarn count 25.6 × 25.6, density 162 × 157.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201310415782.0A CN103445357B (en) | 2013-09-13 | 2013-09-13 | A kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201310415782.0A CN103445357B (en) | 2013-09-13 | 2013-09-13 | A kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN103445357A CN103445357A (en) | 2013-12-18 |
| CN103445357B true CN103445357B (en) | 2015-09-30 |
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| CN201310415782.0A Active CN103445357B (en) | 2013-09-13 | 2013-09-13 | A kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar |
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Families Citing this family (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103653448B (en) * | 2013-12-24 | 2015-09-09 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | The preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner |
| CN106723438B (en) * | 2017-02-17 | 2018-09-21 | 吴国英 | Customize the art shapes method that neckline on western-style clothes closes patch neck |
| CN107927932A (en) * | 2017-12-30 | 2018-04-20 | 北京亿都川服装集团有限公司 | The jacket and its production technology of a kind of collar changeable |
| CN108244730A (en) * | 2017-12-30 | 2018-07-06 | 北京亿都川服装集团有限公司 | A kind of western-style clothes collar production method |
| CN108523288A (en) * | 2018-02-06 | 2018-09-14 | 蓝豹股份有限公司 | Bottom collar Nian Jing Cun manufacture crafts |
| CN108991637A (en) * | 2018-07-06 | 2018-12-14 | 烟台南山学院 | A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method |
| CN108887777B (en) * | 2018-08-22 | 2021-02-02 | 宁波培罗成股份有限公司 | Cutting method for collar backing woolen cloth with adhesive interlining |
| CN111184276A (en) * | 2018-11-14 | 2020-05-22 | 郑明隆 | Production process of down jacket |
| CN110115401A (en) * | 2019-05-10 | 2019-08-13 | 温州庄吉服饰有限公司 | A kind of processing method of integral type business suit collar |
| CN110604346B (en) * | 2019-09-30 | 2021-04-09 | 西京学院 | Method for cutting collar of men's shirt |
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| CN201860754U (en) * | 2010-11-18 | 2011-06-15 | 宁波玛珂威尔服饰有限公司 | Suit collar |
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| CN103445357A (en) | 2013-12-18 |
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| PE01 | Entry into force of the registration of the contract for pledge of patent right |
Denomination of invention: Manufacturing technology of a suit collar Effective date of registration: 20210625 Granted publication date: 20150930 Pledgee: Shouguang Shengcheng sub branch of Bank of Weifang Co.,Ltd. Pledgor: SHANDONG SUNSAY GROUP Co.,Ltd. Registration number: Y2021980005320 |
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Date of cancellation: 20220624 Granted publication date: 20150930 Pledgee: Shouguang Shengcheng sub branch of Bank of Weifang Co.,Ltd. Pledgor: SHANDONG SUNSAY GROUP CO.,LTD. Registration number: Y2021980005320 |
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| PC01 | Cancellation of the registration of the contract for pledge of patent right | ||
| PE01 | Entry into force of the registration of the contract for pledge of patent right |
Denomination of invention: A manufacturing process of suit collar Effective date of registration: 20220627 Granted publication date: 20150930 Pledgee: Shouguang Shengcheng sub branch of Bank of Weifang Co.,Ltd. Pledgor: SHANDONG SUNSAY GROUP CO.,LTD. Registration number: Y2022980009018 |
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