CN113367415B - Female trousers prototype tailoring method - Google Patents

Female trousers prototype tailoring method Download PDF

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CN113367415B
CN113367415B CN202110672501.4A CN202110672501A CN113367415B CN 113367415 B CN113367415 B CN 113367415B CN 202110672501 A CN202110672501 A CN 202110672501A CN 113367415 B CN113367415 B CN 113367415B
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line
width
circumference
province
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CN113367415A (en
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徐先坤
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/06Trousers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

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  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a female trousers prototype tailoring method, relating to the technical field of clothing manufacturing and comprising the following steps: measuring the height, waist circumference, hip circumference, thigh circumference, crotch, bulk, trouser length and hip convexity difference of the human body; positioning the frame according to the formula: hip circumference 1/2+ hip circumference 1/3+ hip convexity + volume of looseness 1/3; determining the width of a front piece, the width of a rear piece and the width of the abdomen and the buttocks of the female trousers prototype, wherein the width of the front piece is 1/4-1 of the hip circumference, the width of the rear piece is 1/4+1 of the hip circumference, and the width of the abdomen and the buttocks is 1/3+ 1/3 of the thigh circumference and 1/3+ the hip convex difference; determining a cutting curve of the female trousers; and cutting and sewing according to the cutting curve. The invention is not only suitable for industrial plate making batch production, but also more suitable for single-size single-cut high-end private customization in clothing stores, and the abdomen and hip width of the human body can be accurately positioned by adjusting according to different human body data rules through a formula regardless of the height of the hip in the single-size single-cut and regardless of the thickness and thickness of the human body.

Description

Female trousers prototype tailoring method
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of garment manufacturing, in particular to a female trousers prototype tailoring method.
Background
The tailoring of various styles of clothes is generally developed and changed based on clothes prototypes, the clothes prototypes take the physiological structure, the motion function, the motion range and the clothes form requirement of human bodies as theoretical bases, and the internal limit values of different types of people are obtained through human body measurement and are subjected to mathematical statistics to obtain the standard sizes of the different types of clothes tailoring. The standard size of the clothes prototype integrates the classification sizes of the height and the body type (number and type) of a human body to obtain all information of different specifications, and the standard size is a basic platform for high and new technology mathematical application and development of clothes production, teaching, computers and the like.
Most of the prior art are industrial plate making, the plate making method is suitable for plate making of a large batch of standard human body types in a factory, when the plate making method is applied to a clothing store, the crotch bottom often has the willow or cat whiskers, namely the existing trouser frame positioning generally adopts H/2+0.18 + H (H represents hip circumference), the formula only considers the hip circumference, and other differences of the human body are not considered, for example, the thickness of the human body is not considered, whether the hip is raised or not is not considered, whether the hip is flattened or not is not considered, the human body type is not considered, the plate type is fixed, and the plate type is only suitable for the standard human body type. And for special body types such as obesity, special body types, flat hips, round hips, 8230and the like in the customized population, a template which perfectly accords with the body types is difficult to manufacture, and the customized style is difficult to be suitable for a clothing store to customize according to the single size.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the present invention aims to provide a method for cutting a female pants prototype, so as to solve the technical problems that the cutting method adopted in the prior art is suitable for mass plate making in factories facing standard body types, and a template perfectly conforming to the body types is difficult to be made for special fat body types in customized people, such as flat hip and round hip.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides a method for cutting a female trousers prototype, which comprises the following steps:
firstly, measuring the height, waistline, hip circumference, thigh circumference, crotch, trouser legs, looseness, trouser length and hip convex difference of a human body;
second, the frame is positioned according to the formula: hip circumference 1/2+ hip circumference 1/3+ hip convexity + volume of looseness 1/3;
thirdly, determining the front piece width, the rear piece width and the abdomen-hip width of the female trousers prototype, wherein the front piece width is the hip circumference 1/4-1, the rear piece width is the hip circumference 1/4+1, and the abdomen-hip width is the thigh circumference 1/3+ the looseness 1/3+ the hip convex difference;
fourthly, determining a cutting curve of the panty;
fifthly, cutting and sewing according to the cutting curve;
wherein, the length values of the height, the waistline, the hip circumference, the thigh circumference, the crotch, the looseness, the trouser length, the trouser bottom and the hip convexity difference all adopt cm as a measuring unit.
According to a preferred embodiment, when the cutting curve of the female trousers is determined in the fourth step, a middle crotch line, a standing shield deep line, a hip girth line and an inner side seam are respectively determined, wherein the middle crotch line is 0.3 × height + (8.5-6.5), the standing shield deep line is 0.1 × hip girth +0.1 × height-1, the hip girth line is that the standing shield deep line moves upwards by 1/3, and the inner side seam moves rightwards by 1/3+ 1/2 of looseness after 1/2 of abdomen and hip width
According to a preferred embodiment, the vertical lines on the left and right sides of the abdomen-hip width are respectively the center line of the back part and the center line of the front part, the center line of the back part moves leftwards by 0.1-1.5 of the hip circumference to form the center line of the back part, and the center line of the front part moves rightwards by 0.1-0.5 of the hip circumference to form the center line of the front part.
According to a preferred embodiment, the intersection point of the central line of the back piece trousers and the hip line is provided with a province to form a back lifting piece, the lifting width of the back lifting piece is 1/4 to 0.5+4 of waist circumference, and the lifting amount is obtained.
According to a preferred embodiment, the bisector between the rear panel pant centerline and the outer side seam is a rear bisector, and a D dart is provided on the rear bisector and a C dart is provided on the rear panel centerline.
According to a preferred embodiment, the width of the D-province is such that: the length from the midline of the rear trousers to the suture line on the outer side is subtracted by middle gear/4 +1; the width of the C province is as follows: the length from the middle line of the rear pants to the inner side suture line subtracts the middle gear/4 +1, and the dialing amount of the intersection point of the hip line and the outer side suture line is obtained through the C province and the D province.
According to a preferred embodiment, for the pedicure type of the body shaping version, the C province and the D province are combined and then moved downwards, the downwards moved part is turned upwards to form a pocket, and the pocket is processed by a return-dialing process.
According to a preferred embodiment, a bisector between the front panel pant centerline and the outer side seam is a front bisector, and a dart is located on the front bisector and a dart is located on the front panel centerline.
According to a preferred embodiment, the width of said a province is: the length from the central line of the front trousers to the outer side sewing line minus the middle gear/4-1; the width of the B province is as follows: and subtracting the middle gear/4-1 from the length from the central line to the inner side seam of the front pants, and obtaining the setting amount of the intersection point of the hip line and the outer side seam through the A province and the B province.
According to a preferred embodiment, for the pedicure type of the body shaping plate, the A province and the B province are combined and then move downwards, the downward moving part is turned upwards to form a pocket, and the pocket is processed by a poking process.
The female trousers prototype cutting method provided by the invention has the following technical effects:
the existing trousers frame is positioned by adopting a formula of hip circumference 1/2+0.18 hip circumference or drawing a front piece and laying the front piece on cloth to directly cut a back piece, the thickness of a human body is not considered, whether the hip is raised or not is not considered, whether the hip is flat or not is not considered, and a human body shape is not considered to make a plate. The invention avoids the defects in the actual application of single amount and single cutting, solves the problem of repeated modification, reduces the repair rate, saves labor and time, and increases the customer satisfaction.
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In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly described below, it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are only some embodiments of the present invention, and for those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained according to the drawings without creative efforts.
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a prototype of a pant half according to an embodiment of the invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the evolution of FIG. 1;
FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of the evolution of FIG. 2;
FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the evolution of FIG. 3;
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the evolution of FIG. 4;
FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of the evolution of FIG. 5;
FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram of the evolution of FIG. 6;
figure 8 is a full body prototype of the pants garment.
Wherein, fig. 1-8:
1. a crotch line; 2. setting up a deep blocking line; 3. a hip line; 4. sewing the inner side; 5. the center line of the rear sheet; 6. the center line of the front sheet; 7. the rear piece trouser midline; 8. the front piece trouser middle line; 9. back upwarping slices; 10. sewing the outer side; 11. front bisector; 12. and (4) rear bisector.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the technical solutions of the present invention will be described in detail below. It should be apparent that the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the examples given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
The invention positions the frame according to the formula, the concrete formula is: the hip circumference 1/2+ hip circumference 1/3+ hip convexity + bulk 1/3, the formula is not only suitable for industrial plate making batch production, but also more suitable for single-size single-cut high-end private customization of clothing stores. The abdomen and hip width of the human body can be accurately positioned by adjusting the formula according to different human body data rules regardless of the height of the hip and the thickness and thickness of the human body in single-amount single cutting.
Specifically, the positioning mode of each line is as follows: the crotch line 1 is 0.3 × height + (8.5-6.5), the vertical baffle deep line 2 is 0.1 × hip circumference +0.1 × height-1, the hip circumference line 3 is the vertical baffle deep line 2 which moves upwards by 1/3, and the inner side seam 4 is moved by 1/3+ 1/2 of the abdomen-hip width and then moves towards the right (namely, the front piece direction) by 1/3+1+2 (the front piece is borrowed by the back piece).
The vertical lines of the left side and the right side of the abdomen-hip width are respectively a back piece central line 5 and a front piece central line 6, the back piece central line 5 moves leftwards by 0.1 × hip circumference-1.5 to form a back piece trouser central line 7, and the front piece central line 6 moves rightwards by 0.1 × hip circumference-0.5 to form a front piece trouser central line 8.
The intersection point of the central line 7 of the back piece trousers and the hip circumferential line 3 is saved to form a back lifting piece 9, the lifting width of the back lifting piece 9 is 1/4-0.5+4 of the waistline, and the lifting amount is obtained.
The lifting amount of the existing trousers is 3-4 cm, the inclined angle of the back crotch is generally 15:3.5, 15:4 \ 8230, etc., the larger the back crotch is, the larger the back warping is, the larger the accumulation amount of the back waist is, the activity of the waist descending or manual labor is increased, and the aesthetic property is poorer; the amount of the upwarping of the invention is determined according to the difference between the hip and the waist of a human body, and the amount of the upwarping is relatively small (changed along with the body type), thus reducing the accumulation amount, being suitable for the development of the modern society and increasing the aesthetic property.
In addition, the bisector between the front pants centerline 8 and the outer side seam 10 is the front bisector 11, the A-dart is provided on the front bisector 11, and the B-dart is provided on the front centerline 6. The bisector between the rear piece trouser middle line 7 and the outer side seam 10 is a rear bisector 12, a D-province is arranged on the rear bisector 12, and a C-province is arranged on the rear piece central line 5.
The length from the central line of the front trousers to the outer side sewing line minus the middle gear/4-1; the width of province B is: the length from the central line of the front trousers to the inner side suture line subtracts the middle gear/4-1, and the return amount of the intersection point of the hip line 3 and the outer side suture line 10 is obtained through the A province and the B province. The length from the midline of the rear trousers to the suture line on the outer side is subtracted by middle gear/4 +1; the width of the C province is as follows: the length from the middle line of the rear piece to the inner side suture line subtracts the middle gear/4 +1, and the dialing amount of the intersection point of the hip line 3 and the outer side suture line 10 is obtained through the C province and the D province.
The size of the trousers pattern is calculated by the sizes of the A province, the B province, the C province and the D province, and the amount of the bag closing and pulling of the outer side seam 10 of the human body can be accurately calculated no matter what size changes the A province, the B province, the C province and the D province exist, and the structure is processed in advance, so that the phenomenon that the outer side seam 10 of the human body is bulged is avoided.
In addition, in the prior art, for the small pants type body shaping version, the rear knee has a pocket phenomenon, so that the appearance is influenced. The method can accurately calculate the amount of the posterior knee returning and pulling, solves the problem of the posterior knee pocket phenomenon in advance by applying the returning and pulling process before manufacturing, and avoids repeated modification.
The standard body type will be described in detail below as an example.
According to the measurement mode specified by national standards, the height =160cm, the waist length =72cm, the hip circumference =94cm, the thigh circumference =53.5cm, the crotch =38cm, the bulk =4cm, the trouser length =97cm and the hip convex difference =5cm.
The invention provides a female trousers prototype tailoring method, which comprises the following steps:
firstly, measuring the height of a human body by 160cm, the waist circumference by 72cm, the hip circumference by 94cm, the thigh root circumference by 53.5cm, the crotch by 38cm, the bulk by 4cm, the trouser length by 97cm and the hip convexity difference by 5cm;
second, the frame is positioned according to the formula: hip circumference 1/2+ hip root circumference 1/3+ hip convexity difference + looseness 1/3, and after substituting the data, 98cm 1/2+53.5cm 1/3+5cm +4cm 1/3= 73.169m;
thirdly, determining the front width, the back width and the hip width of the female trousers prototype, wherein the front width is hip circumference 1/4-1=98cm 1/4-1=23.5cm, the back width is hip circumference 1/4+1=98cm 1/4+1=25.5cm, and the hip width is thigh circumference 1/3+ loose amount 1/3+ hip projection difference =53.5cm 1/3+4cm 1/3 cm =24.1cm.
Fourthly, as shown in fig. 1, a cutting curve is determined, that is, a middle crotch line 1, a standing block deep line 2, a hip circumferential line 3 and an inner side seam 4 are respectively determined, wherein the middle crotch line 1 is 0.3 × height + (8.5-6.5) =50cm, the standing block deep line 2 is 0.1 × hip circumference +0.1 × height-1 = -24.8cm, the hip circumferential line 3 is the standing block deep line 2 which moves up by 1/3, and the inner side seam 4 is the abdomen width × 1/2 and then moves left by a loose amount × 1/3+1+2 (the front sheet is referred to as the rear sheet).
Further, as shown in fig. 1, the vertical lines on the left and right sides of the abdomen and hip width are respectively the center line 5 of the back piece and the center line 6 of the front piece, the center line 5 of the back piece moves leftwards by 0.1 × hip circumference-1.5 to form the center line 7 of the back piece, and the center line 6 of the front piece moves rightwards by 0.1 × hip circumference-0.5 to form the center line 8 of the front piece.
The intersection point of the central line 7 of the rear piece trousers and the hip circumferential line 3 is saved to form a rear warping piece 9, the warping width of the rear warping piece 9 is waistline 1/4-0.5+4=22cm, the obtained warping amount is 1.5cm, specifically, 0.1 point is taken as the circle center, the rear warping piece 9 is combined, so that the warping amount is 1.5cmd, the lower waist and other activity amounts are increased, and the raised warping amount is not large, so that excessive lifting 23946 can not occur, and the attractiveness is increased
Further, as shown in fig. 1 and fig. 2, a bisector between the central line 7 of the rear pants and the outer side seam 10 is a rear bisector 12, a dart D is arranged on the rear bisector 12, a dart C is arranged on the central line 5 of the rear pants, and the width of the dart D is the length from the central line of the rear pants to the outer side seam minus the middle gear/4 +1=4.7cm; the width of the C province is as follows: the length from the middle line to the inner side suture line of the rear piece trousers minus the middle gear/4 +1=11.8cm; and obtaining the returning and poking amount of the intersection point of the hip circumferential line 3 and the outer side seam 10 through the C province and the D province, wherein the returning and poking amount refers to the returning and poking amount of the rear sheet, and is specifically 1.2cm.
Similarly, as shown in fig. 1 and fig. 2, a bisector between the front pants centerline 8 and the outer side seam 10 is a front bisector 11, a dart a is arranged on the front bisector 11, a dart B is arranged on the front pants centerline 6, and the width of the dart a is the length from the front pants centerline to the outer side seam minus the middle/4-1 =4cm; the width of province B is: subtracting the length from the central line to the inner side seam of the front piece trousers by the length of the central line/4-1cm =10.5cm, and obtaining the return amount of the intersection point of the hip peripheral line 3 and the outer side seam 10 through the provinces A and B, wherein the return amount refers to the return amount of the front piece, and is specifically 0.8cm.
Respectively combining 4 provinces, namely A province, B province, C province and D province, opening 1.2cm at the hip girth line 3 of the side seam of the combined back piece, and opening 0.8cm at the hip girth of the side seam of the combined front piece; the 1.2cm and 0.8cm which are opened are the reasons for bulging at the side seam part, and the bulging phenomenon is solved by combining the parts.
As shown in fig. 3, the hip lines of the rear pieces are folded by 1.2cm and the hip lines are unfolded, the waist is unfolded after the folding, and the waist saving amount is increased; combining the opened 0.8cm parts of the hip line 3 of the front piece, opening the waist part of the front piece after combination, and increasing the front labor saving; after 1.2cm and 0.8cm of the hip line 3 are combined, the labor intensity is transferred to the waist, and the phenomenon of bulging of the hip line is avoided after the waist is contracted.
As shown in fig. 4, 1), the provinces E, F, G and H, and 4 waist provinces;
2) Lower hip = 36.9cm- (53.5 cm/2+ difference between front and rear 1cm of hip root + 3.5cm of bulk + 3cm of design bulk) =2.7cm;
3) Lower abdomen = 27cm- (53.5/2-anterior-posterior difference 1cm + 0.5cm bulk) =0.75cm.
As shown in fig. 5, the line B and the line D are cut, and then the hip lower province and the abdomen lower province are combined,
as shown in fig. 6, the hip-lower and abdomen-lower provinces were combined and the front and rear crotch curves were fitted.
As shown in FIG. 7, the rear panel inner side seam 4 is formed by combining 0.7cm for controlling the length of the front and rear inner side seams 4 of the trousers, namely, the rear panel inner side seam 4 is shorter than the front panel inner side seam 4 by 1cm, and the rear panel is pulled out by using an electric iron during the manufacturing process. The combination of the inner side seam 4 is called the crotch bending and opening, which increases the crotch bending length and reduces the bending and pulling amount.
As shown in figure 8, for the whole body prototype of the pants, 1) the difference between the new crotch and the old crotch of the back piece is 2.5cm, the difference between the new crotch and the old crotch of the front piece is 0.4cm, the lengths of the new crotch and the old crotch are measured for length comparison, and the length which is not enough is pulled out by an electric iron. The method pre-judges the actual return-pull amount of the front and rear crotch bends in advance, and avoids the phenomena of crotch hooking and drawing;
2) Pulling the length of the inner side seam of the back piece to be equal to the length of the inner side seam of the front piece;
3) The length of the lower hem of the back piece of trousers is reduced by 1cm, and then the back piece of trousers is pulled out at the position of the knee circumference by the same amount. The length of the trousers of the back piece is shortened in advance, and then the trousers are pulled out for 1cm at the knee circumference so as to avoid the nest phenomenon at the knee nest of the back piece of the trousers in advance;
fifthly, cutting and sewing according to the cutting curve.
The above description is only for the specific embodiments of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art can easily conceive of the changes or substitutions within the technical scope of the present invention, and all the changes or substitutions should be covered within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope of the claims.

Claims (5)

1. A panty prototype tailoring method is characterized by comprising the following steps:
firstly, measuring the height, waistline, hip circumference, thigh circumference, crotch, looseness, trouser length and hip convexity difference of a human body;
second, the frame is positioned according to the formula: hip circumference 1/2+ hip circumference 1/3+ hip convexity + volume of looseness 1/3;
thirdly, determining the front piece width, the rear piece width and the abdomen-hip width of the female trousers prototype, wherein the front piece width is hip circumference 1/4-1, the rear piece width is hip circumference 1/4+1, and the abdomen-hip width is thigh circumference 1/3+ looseness 1/3+ hip convex difference;
fourthly, determining a cutting curve of the panty;
fifthly, cutting and sewing according to the cutting curve;
wherein the length values of the height, the waistline, the hip circumference, the thigh root circumference, the crotch, the looseness, the trouser length and the hip convexity difference all adopt cm as a measuring unit;
when a cutting curve of the female trousers is determined in the fourth step, a middle crotch line, a standing baffle deep line, a hip girth line and an inner side seam are respectively determined, wherein the middle crotch line is 0.3 × height + (8.5-6.5), the standing baffle deep line is 0.1 × hip girth +0.1 × height-1, the hip girth line is that the standing baffle deep line moves upwards by 1/3, and the inner side seam moves rightwards by 1/3+1+2 after being 1/2 of the web and hip width;
the vertical lines at the left side and the right side of the abdomen-hip width are respectively a central line of the back piece and a central line of the front piece, the central line of the back piece moves leftwards by 0.1 hip circumference-1.5 to form a central line of the back piece trousers, and the central line of the front piece moves rightwards by 0.1 hip circumference-0.5 to form a central line of the front piece trousers;
the intersection point of the central line of the rear piece trousers and the hip line is omitted to form a rear lifting piece, the lifting width of the rear lifting piece is 1/4-0.5+4 waist circumference, and the lifting amount is obtained;
a bisector between the central line of the rear piece and the outer side seam is a rear bisector, a D province is arranged on the rear bisector, and a C province is arranged on the central line of the rear piece;
a bisector between the central line of the front trousers and the outer side seam is a front bisector, a dart is arranged on the front bisector, and a dart is arranged on the central line of the front trousers.
2. The panty prototyping method of claim 1 wherein the width of D province is: the length from the midline of the rear trousers to the suture line on the outer side is subtracted by middle gear/4 +1; the width of the C province is as follows: the length from the middle line of the rear pants to the inner side suture line subtracts the middle gear/4 +1, and the dialing amount of the intersection point of the hip line and the outer side suture line is obtained through the C province and the D province.
3. The method for cutting a panty prototype according to claim 2, wherein for the trimmed version of the panty type, the C province and the D province are combined and then moved downwards, the part moved downwards is folded upwards to form a pocket, and the pocket is processed by a poking process.
4. The panty prototype tailoring method of claim 1, wherein the width of province a is: the length from the central line of the front trousers to the outer side sewing line minus the middle gear/4-1; the width of the B province is as follows: and subtracting the middle gear/4-1 from the length from the central line to the inner side seam of the front pants, and obtaining the setting amount of the intersection point of the hip line and the outer side seam through the A province and the B province.
5. The method for cutting a panty prototype according to claim 4, wherein for the trimmed version of the panty type, the province A and the province B are merged and then moved downwards, the downward moving part is folded upwards to form a pocket, and the pocket is processed by a poking process.
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JP2018016915A (en) * 2016-07-29 2018-02-01 株式会社たまゆら Men's trousers
CN110710751A (en) * 2018-11-06 2020-01-21 许宗保 Golden proportion type female trousers sample plate, female trousers and plate manufacturing method

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