CN112385924A - Trousers type printing method - Google Patents
Trousers type printing method Download PDFInfo
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- CN112385924A CN112385924A CN202011293348.6A CN202011293348A CN112385924A CN 112385924 A CN112385924 A CN 112385924A CN 202011293348 A CN202011293348 A CN 202011293348A CN 112385924 A CN112385924 A CN 112385924A
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- waist
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- hip
- crotch
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P90/00—Enabling technologies with a potential contribution to greenhouse gas [GHG] emissions mitigation
- Y02P90/30—Computing systems specially adapted for manufacturing
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- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a trousers-type printing method, which comprises the steps of drawing a waist-hip circumference part, drawing a hip circumference line according to the half hip circumference size, drawing a waist circumference line according to the upper hip height line distance, drawing a transverse crotch line according to the lower hip circumference to crotch distance, drawing a side seam auxiliary line at the midpoint of the hip circumference line, cutting a front waist into 2cm, cutting a rear waist into 1cm, simultaneously upwards raising two sides by 0.7cm, dropping a rear middle piece by 1cm, drawing front and rear waist lines, distributing the excess parts according to the front and rear waist positions and the waist saving amount, drawing a front waist province and a rear waist province, accurately calculating a K value according to the specific conditions of a human body and a related style, cutting and unfolding the rear hip line according to the K value, completely separating from the traditional trousers printing method, adopting a skirt base type, adding trouser legs and front and rear transverse crotch width on the basis of a fit skirt, and completing the drawing according to the characteristics, style and size change of each part of the human body. The invention solves the problems that the trousers type printing process is repaired for many times after problems occur, and the trousers type printing process can not meet the requirements after being corrected for many times and can not succeed once.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of pattern making and cutting of clothes lower garments, and particularly relates to a pants type pattern making method.
Background
For a long time, the trousers pattern troubles the technical personnel of clothing enterprises, the traditional trousers pattern making method can not meet the requirement of improving clothes of people, the trousers pattern making is difficult, and the tight trousers pattern making is more difficult. Even hong Kong and Taiwan establish some mechanisms for professional study of the trouser types, the study on the types is quite deep, but the mechanisms do not break away from the frame of the traditional trouser type printing method all the time, the cat must at the front crotch, the crotch at the back, the crotch, the allowance under the crotch, the side seam bulge, the foot lifting and the like, the problems are always repaired and corrected, even after multiple corrections, the requirements are not met, and the success is not mentioned for the last time. After years of research, the trial and error of thousands of trousers summarize a novel trousers version printing method, which is completely based on the data of each part of the human body, even if the special body exists, the method can be expressed perfectly on the sample plate as long as the related data exists.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above situation, in order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a pants-type printing method, which completely departs from the traditional pants-type printing method, adopts a skirt-based pattern, adds the trouser legs and the front and rear transverse crotch widths on the basis of a fitted skirt, and completes the pants-type base plate drawing according to the characteristics, style and size changes of each part of a human body.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: a pant-type printing method comprising the steps of:
(1) drawing hip contour lines according to the half hip circumference size, drawing waist contour lines at the distance from the upper hip contour line, and drawing transverse crotch lines at the distance from the lower hip circumference to the crotch position;
(2) side seam auxiliary lines are dotted in the hip line;
(3) the front waist of the side seam piece is split into 2cm, the back waist is split into 1cm, and the two sides of the side seam piece are simultaneously upwards warped by 0.7 cm;
(4) the back middle piece falls by 1cm, the front waist line and the back waist line are drawn, the redundant parts are the province amount, the total amount of the back waist province is that a is (H-W)/4-1+1 minus 1 is the amount of the split-in side seam piece, and the addition of 1 is that the back waist circumference is more economical than the front waist circumference, so that the back waist is more fit with the body; the total amount of the front waist dart is b ═ (H-W) -2-1 minus 2, which is the amount of the side seam piece which is split in, and minus 1 is the amount of the front waist dart.
(5) The front waist province and the back waist province are drawn according to the positions of the front waist province and the back waist province and the distribution of the waist province.
(6) The total quantity of the crosspieces is accurately calculated according to the leg girth, the hip girth and the style of the human body, and the front and rear transverse crotch lines are respectively extended outwards.
(7) The crotch of the back gear is 0.5-2.5cm downward, and the actual crotch amount is 0-1.2 cm.
(8) The boundary of the front and back hip circumferences is prolonged to the length of the trousers;
(9) when the human body stands naturally, the human body side view has a forward-leaning angle from the hip to the foot mouth, the curve of the middle line at the back of the leg is obvious and is longer than the front middle line by about 1-1.2cm, the K value is calculated by the style loose degree and is not a fixed value, generally 0-3cm, the other end point of the K value line is connected with the hip surrounding line, and all lines are rotated by the line after connection.
(10) The front and back hip lines are 0.1H, and the parallel line of the trouser length line is the front and back middle lines, at this time, the difference in length between the front and back middle lines can be seen.
(11) Drawing a waist line and a front wave line along the middle point of the front waist, wherein the middle point of the front waist is 0-1.5cm inward and 1cm downward at the same time;
(12) drawing the sizes of the front and rear middle crotches and the foot openings, wherein the half sides of the front middle crotches and the foot openings are respectively reduced by 1cm-2cm, the sizes can be properly adjusted according to specific shapes, lines are smooth and attractive, and the middle crotches and the foot openings of the rear piece are called the amount reduced by the front piece, are respectively drawn as middle crotches and foot opening lines and are connected to transverse crotches;
(13) cutting the hip contour of the back piece, and cutting and unfolding 1+ K (cm);
(14) drawing a back crotch line: drawing a slant line at 45 degrees of the intersection point of the crotch line and the back center line of the original skirt piece for 1.3-3cm, and drawing a back crotch seam;
(15) drawing the side seam of the back piece, paying attention to the trimming and extending loss at the hip circumference, and drawing along the side seam of the back piece to finish the base plate drawing.
Further, the side seam auxiliary line may be smaller in front and larger in back or smaller in front and back, but the front and back waist circumference distribution is considered at the same time.
Further, the front waist split-in data and the back waist split-in data can be adjusted according to the body type and the style.
Further, the provinces include a front waist province total amount and a rear waist province total amount.
Furthermore, the distribution of the front crosspiece and the rear crosspiece can be combined with the hip circumferences of the front piece and the rear piece, so that the left and right stress of the crotch trousers piece is uniform, and the problem is avoided.
Furthermore, the crotch amount is increased as the leg circumference is tighter by properly adjusting according to the fabric performance and the fit degree of the leg circumference.
Further, the front and back hip lines are calculated as 1/4 of the width of the human hip or the size of the finished hip circumference.
Further, the specific data of 0-1.5cm is larger in value according to the body type when the hip-waist difference is larger, and the specific data of 1cm is larger in value according to the body type when the hip-waist difference is larger, namely the waist size is larger and smaller.
Further, the looser the trouser leg parts are, the smaller the cutting and unfolding amount is, and the tighter the cutting and unfolding amount is.
After adopting the structure, the invention has the following beneficial effects: the invention relates to a pants-type printing method, which solves the problem of
1. The front middle line and the rear middle line of the traditional method are equal in length and cannot meet the requirement of the length difference of the front middle line and the rear middle line of the legs under the crotch of a human body;
2. the position of the front and rear center lines of the traditional trousers making method is influenced by various uncertainties as follows:
A. the impact of gantry width;
B. influence of gantry front-to-back distribution;
C. influence of hip circumference front and back panel distribution (e.g. front hip circumference-1, back hip circumference + 1);
D. influence of split-in amount at the side seam crotch line;
3. the traditional printing method has no accurate calculation method for the width of the gantry, and is completely the result of a stylist shooting a brain bag by experience;
4. the traditional method for calculating the sleepiness of the middle school is not reasonable, and is also a result of a stylist shooting a brain bag based on experience, so that the problem is necessary and is accidental.
Drawings
The accompanying drawings, which are included to provide a further understanding of the invention and are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification, illustrate embodiments of the invention and together with the description serve to explain the principles of the invention and not to limit the invention.
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a method for printing a pattern on the waist and hip circumference of a pants-type printing method according to the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a K value determination method of a pants-type printing method according to the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a pant-type printing method according to the present invention;
fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of a conventional trousers printing error zone of the trousers printing method according to the trousers printing method of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments; all other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
It is noted that, herein, relational terms such as first and second, and the like may be used solely to distinguish one entity or action from another entity or action without necessarily requiring or implying any actual such relationship or order between such entities or actions. Also, the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus.
As shown in fig. 1 to 4, a pant-type printing method includes the steps of:
referring to fig. 1, a drawing method (skirt-making method) of the waist-hip circumference part:
(1) drawing hip contour lines according to the half hip circumference size, drawing waist contour lines at the distance from the upper hip contour line, and drawing transverse crotch lines at the distance from the lower hip circumference to the crotch position;
(2) drawing a side seam auxiliary line (which can be small in front and large in back or large in front and small in back, and considering the distribution of front and back waistlines at the same time) in the hip line;
(3) the front waist of the side seam piece is split into 2cm, the back waist is split into 1cm, (the front and back data can be adjusted according to the body type and style), and both sides of the side seam piece are simultaneously upwards warped by 0.7 cm;
(4) the back middle piece falls by 1cm, the front and back waist lines are drawn as shown in figure 1, the redundant parts are provinces, the total amount of the back waist province is that a is (H-W)/4-1+1 minus 1 is the amount of the split-in of the side seam piece, and the addition of 1 is that the back waist circumference has more than the front waist circumference, so that the back waist is more fit with the body; the total amount of the front waist province is b ═ (H-W) -2-1 minus 2, which is the amount of the split-in of the side seam piece, and minus 1 is the amount of the front waist province which is less;
(5) the position and the drawing method of the front and back waist provinces are shown in a figure 1, the distribution of the waist provinces is shown in a figure 1, and the drawing method of the basic skirt is shown above.
Referring to fig. 2, according to the specific situation of the human body and the related style, the K value is accurately calculated:
the total crotch amount is accurately calculated according to the leg girth, the hip girth and the style of the human body, the front and rear crotch lines are respectively extended outwards, the distribution of the front and rear crotches can be combined with the distribution of the hip girth of the front and rear pieces, the uniform stress of the crotch trousers pieces is ensured, and the problem is avoided. The crotch of the crotch back bottom is 0.5-2.5cm, and the actual crotch amount is 0-1.2cm (the crotch amount is larger when the leg circumference is tighter according to the fabric performance and the fit degree of the leg circumference)
(6) The boundary of the front and back hip circumferences is prolonged to the length of the trousers;
(7) k value: when the human body stands naturally, the human body side view has a forward-leaning angle from the hip to the foot mouth, the curve of the middle line of the rear leg is obvious and is longer than the front middle line by about 1-1.2cm, and the K value is calculated by the style loose degree, is not a fixed value and is generally 0-3 cm. The other end point of the K value line is connected with the hip line, and all lines are rotated by the line after connection;
(8) the front and back hip lines are 0.1H (calculated as 1/4 of the width of the human hip or the size of the finished hip circumference), and the parallel line of the trouser length line is taken as the front and back central lines. It can be seen that the difference in length between the anterior and posterior midline occurs.
Referring to fig. 3, the hip line after the hip is cut and developed according to the K value, and all parts are charted:
(9) drawing a waist line and a front wave line along the waist line, wherein the middle point of the front waist is 0-1.5cm inward (the larger the hip-waist difference is according to the body type and the larger the value is), and the lower is 1cm (the larger the hip-waist difference is according to the body type and the larger the value is, namely the larger the waist is, the smaller the value is);
(10) the sizes of the front and rear middle crotches and the foot openings are drawn, the half sides of the front middle crotches and the foot openings are respectively reduced by 1cm-2cm, the sizes can be properly adjusted according to specific shapes, the lines are smooth and attractive, and the amount of the front piece is called as the amount of the front piece to be reduced by the middle crotches and the foot openings of the rear piece. Respectively drawing a crotch line and a foot opening line, and connecting the crotch line and the foot opening line to a transverse crotch line;
(11) cutting and unfolding the hip line of the back piece by 1+ K (cm) (the looser the trouser leg part is, the smaller the cutting and unfolding amount is, the larger the closer the cutting and unfolding amount is);
(12) drawing a back crotch line: drawing a slant line at 45 degrees on the intersection point of the crotch line and the back midline of the original skirt piece by 1.3-3cm to obtain a point (the closer the value is, the looser the value is, and a related calculation formula is provided), and drawing a back crotch seam;
(13) drawing the side seam of the back piece, paying attention to the trimming and extending loss at the hip circumference, and drawing along the side seam of the back piece to finish the base plate drawing.
Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents. In summary, those skilled in the art should appreciate that they can readily use the disclosed conception and specific embodiments as a basis for designing or modifying other structures for carrying out the same purposes of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.
Claims (9)
1. A pant-type printing method, comprising the steps of:
(1) drawing hip contour lines according to the half hip circumference size, drawing waist contour lines at the distance from the upper hip contour line, and drawing transverse crotch lines at the distance from the lower hip circumference to the crotch position;
(2) side seam auxiliary lines are dotted in the hip line;
(3) the front waist of the side seam piece is split into 2cm, the back waist is split into 1cm, and the two sides of the side seam piece are simultaneously upwards warped by 0.7 cm;
(4) the back middle piece falls by 1cm, the front waist line and the back waist line are drawn, the redundant parts are the province amount, the total amount of the back waist province is that a is (H-W)/4-1+1 minus 1 is the amount of the split-in side seam piece, and the addition of 1 is that the back waist circumference is more economical than the front waist circumference, so that the back waist is more fit with the body; the total amount of the front waist dart is b ═ (H-W) -2-1 minus 2, which is the amount of the side seam piece which is split in, and minus 1 is the amount of the front waist dart.
(5) The front waist province and the back waist province are drawn according to the positions of the front waist province and the back waist province and the distribution of the waist province.
(6) The total quantity of the crosspieces is accurately calculated according to the leg girth, the hip girth and the style of the human body, and the front and rear transverse crotch lines are respectively extended outwards.
(7) The crotch of the back gear is 0.5-2.5cm downward, and the actual crotch amount is 0-1.2 cm.
(8) The boundary of the front and back hip circumferences is prolonged to the length of the trousers;
(9) when the human body stands naturally, the human body side view has a forward-leaning angle from the hip to the foot mouth, the curve of the middle line at the back of the leg is obvious and is longer than the front middle line by about 1-1.2cm, the K value is calculated by the style loose degree and is not a fixed value, generally 0-3cm, the other end point of the K value line is connected with the hip surrounding line, and all lines are rotated by the line after connection.
(10) The front and back hip lines are 0.1H, and the parallel line of the trouser length line is the front and back middle lines, at this time, the difference in length between the front and back middle lines can be seen.
(11) Drawing a waist line and a front wave line along the middle point of the front waist, wherein the middle point of the front waist is 0-1.5cm inward and 1cm downward at the same time;
(12) drawing the sizes of the front and rear middle crotches and the foot openings, wherein the half sides of the front middle crotches and the foot openings are respectively reduced by 1cm-2cm, the sizes can be properly adjusted according to specific shapes, lines are smooth and attractive, and the middle crotches and the foot openings of the rear piece are called the amount reduced by the front piece, are respectively drawn as middle crotches and foot opening lines and are connected to transverse crotches;
(13) cutting the hip contour of the back piece, and cutting and unfolding 1+ K (cm);
(14) drawing a back crotch line: drawing a slant line at 45 degrees of the intersection point of the crotch line and the back center line of the original skirt piece for 1.3-3cm, and drawing a back crotch seam;
(15) drawing the side seam of the back piece, paying attention to the trimming and extending loss at the hip circumference, and drawing along the side seam of the back piece to finish the base plate drawing.
2. A pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (2), the side seam auxiliary line may be smaller in front and larger in back or smaller in front and back, while taking into consideration distribution of front and back waistlines.
3. A pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (3), the front waist split entry and the back waist split entry data are adjustable according to body type and style.
4. A pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in step (4), the savings include a front waist savings total and a back waist savings total.
5. A pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in step (6) the front and rear rails are assigned in conjunction with the hip circumferences of the front and rear panels.
6. A pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (7), the crotch width is increased as the leg circumferences are closer to each other, by appropriately adjusting the fabric properties and the fit of the leg circumferences.
7. A pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in step (10), the front and back hip contours are calculated as 1/4 of the width of the human hip or the size of the finished hip circumference.
8. A pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (11), the specific data of 0-1.5cm is larger in value according to body type, and the specific data of 1cm is larger in value according to body type, i.e. the value is smaller in value according to larger waist type.
9. A pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in step (13), the lower the cut and spread amount, the larger the cut and spread amount, the looser the leg portions are.
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| CN202011293348.6A CN112385924B (en) | 2020-11-18 | 2020-11-18 | Trousers type printing method |
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| CN202011293348.6A CN112385924B (en) | 2020-11-18 | 2020-11-18 | Trousers type printing method |
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Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN113057400A (en) * | 2021-04-01 | 2021-07-02 | 江西服装学院 | Method for setting front and rear ironing lines of trousers template |
| CN113367415A (en) * | 2021-06-17 | 2021-09-10 | 徐先坤 | Female trousers prototype tailoring method |
| CN114376801A (en) * | 2022-02-24 | 2022-04-22 | 福建恒安集团有限公司 | Three-dimensional pants-type sanitary napkin containing crotch extension sheet and preparation method thereof |
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| US20140360030A1 (en) * | 2012-05-17 | 2014-12-11 | Carol S. Grove | System and Method for Drafting Garment Patterns |
| CN110623354A (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2019-12-31 | 许宗保 | Golden ratio type skirt sample plate, skirt and plate manufacturing method |
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| CN101199371A (en) * | 2007-12-13 | 2008-06-18 | 东华大学 | Cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype |
| US20140360030A1 (en) * | 2012-05-17 | 2014-12-11 | Carol S. Grove | System and Method for Drafting Garment Patterns |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN113057400A (en) * | 2021-04-01 | 2021-07-02 | 江西服装学院 | Method for setting front and rear ironing lines of trousers template |
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| CN114376801A (en) * | 2022-02-24 | 2022-04-22 | 福建恒安集团有限公司 | Three-dimensional pants-type sanitary napkin containing crotch extension sheet and preparation method thereof |
| CN114376801B (en) * | 2022-02-24 | 2023-01-10 | 福建恒安集团有限公司 | Three-dimensional pants-type sanitary towel containing crotch extension sheet and preparation method thereof |
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| CN112385924B (en) | 2023-05-09 |
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