CN112385924B

CN112385924B - Trousers type printing method

Info

Publication number: CN112385924B
Application number: CN202011293348.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 肖永旺
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2020-11-18
Filing date: 2020-11-18
Publication date: 2023-05-09
Anticipated expiration: 2040-11-18
Also published as: CN112385924A

Abstract

The invention discloses a trousers type printing method, which is characterized in that a waist-hip circumference part is drawn, a hip girth is drawn by a half-hip circumference size, a waist girth is drawn by an upward hip height line distance, a transverse crotch line is drawn by a downward hip circumference to crotch position distance, a side seam auxiliary line is drawn by a middle point of the hip girth line, a front waist of a side seam piece is split into 2cm, a rear waist is split into 1cm, two sides of the side seam piece are raised upwards by 0.7cm at the same time, a rear middle piece falls down by 1cm, a front waist opening line and a rear waist opening line are drawn, redundant parts are all of a reduced amount, a front waist province and a rear waist province are drawn according to the front waist province position and the rear waist province distribution, a rear waist province are drawn, a K value is accurately calculated according to the specific conditions of a human body and related styles, the rear hip line is cut out according to the size of the K value, the trousers type printing method is completely separated from the traditional trousers type printing method, the trousers type base is adopted, the trousers legs and the front and rear transverse width are added according to the characteristics and the size changes of each part of a human body on the basis. The invention solves the problems that the problem in the trousers type printing process is remedied for a plurality of times, the requirement can not be met after a plurality of times of correction, and the problem can not be successfully achieved once.

Description

Trousers type printing method

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of printing and cutting of clothing lower garment, and particularly relates to a trousers type printing method.

Background

For a long time, the trousers layout has plagued the technicians of clothing enterprises, the traditional trousers printing method can not meet the requirements of improving clothing of people, the trousers printing is difficult to print, and the tight trousers printing is more difficult to print. Even hong Kong and Taiwan establish some professional mechanisms for researching the trousers layout, the research on the layout is quite deep, but the frame of the traditional trousers layout method is not separated all the time, and the front crotch cat whisker, the rear crotch, the crotch pocket, the crotch allowance, the side seam bulge, the lower foot lifting and the like are always remedied and corrected after the problem occurs, and even after the correction is performed for many times, the requirement is not met, and the last success is not achieved. Through many years of research, the trial and error of thousands of trousers are summarized, a novel trousers edition playing method is completely based on the data of all parts of a human body, and even if the trousers are special, the trousers can be perfectly expressed on a template as long as relevant data exist.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the situation, in order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a trousers type printing method which is completely separated from the traditional trousers type printing method, adopts a skirt base type, adds the width of the trousers legs and the front and rear transverse crotch on the basis of a combined skirt, and completes the trousers base type drawing according to the characteristics, style and size of each part of a human body.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: a pant printing method comprising the steps of:

(1) Drawing a hip enclosing line with a half hip circumference size, drawing a waist enclosing line at a high hip line distance, and drawing a transverse crotch line at a crotch position distance from a lower hip circumference;

(2) A side seam auxiliary line is drawn in the hip circumference line;

(3) The front waist of the side seam piece is split into 2cm, the rear waist is split into 1cm, and both sides of the side seam piece are tilted upwards by 0.7cm;

(4) The back middle piece falls by 1cm, front and back waist lines are drawn, the redundant parts are all the amount-saving, the total amount of the back waist is a= (H-W)/4-1+1, wherein 1 is the amount of splitting of the side seam piece, and 1 is the amount of more recovery of the back waistline than the front waistline, so that the back waist is more attached; the total front waist province is b= (H-W) -2-1, wherein 2 is the splitting amount of the side seam piece, 1 is the front waist less shortening amount, H is the hip circumference, and W is the waistline;

(5) Drawing a front waist province and a rear waist province according to the front waist province position, the rear waist province position and the waist province amount;

(6) Accurately calculating the total amount of transverse crotch according to the leg circumference, hip circumference and style of the human body, and respectively extending the front transverse crotch line and the rear transverse crotch line outwards;

(7) The crotch of the back crotch is fallen downwards by 0.5-2.5cm, and the difference of the actual front and back crotch seams is 0-1.2cm;

(8) Extending the front and back hip parting lines to a pant length dimension +1, wherein the front and back hip parting lines coincide with the side seam assist lines;

(9) When a human body stands naturally, the human body is sideways-looking and has a forward tilting angle from buttocks to foot openings, the curve of the middle line behind the legs is obvious and is longer than the front middle line by 1-1.2cm, a vertical line K value line is drawn by an extension point in (8), the K value is calculated to be 0-3cm according to the style loose degree, the other end point of the K value line is connected with a buttock enclosing line, and the K value line is rotated after connection so as to form a vertical line;

(10) Taking 0.1H on the front hip circumference line and the rear hip circumference line respectively, and taking the parallel lines of the trousers long lines as the front central line and the rear central line, wherein the lengths of the front central line and the rear central line can be seen to generate a gap;

(11) The middle point of the front waist is inwards 0-1.5cm, and simultaneously downwards 0-1cm, and a waist line and a front wave line are drawn;

(12) Drawing the sizes of the front middle crotch, the rear middle crotch and the foot mouth, wherein the sizes of the front middle crotch and the foot mouth are generally reduced by 1cm to 2cm respectively, the sizes can be properly adjusted according to specific modeling, the smooth and attractive appearance of lines is suitable, the subtracting amount of the front piece is added to the middle crotch and the foot mouth of the rear piece, the middle crotch and the foot mouth line are respectively drawn, and the middle crotch and the foot mouth line are connected to the transverse crotch line;

(13) Cutting back hip line and cutting 1+K (cm);

(14) Drawing a crotch line: drawing oblique lines by 1.3-3cm at 45 degrees from the intersection point of the crotch falling line and the rear central line of the original skirt piece to form a point, and drawing a back crotch seam;

(15) The back side suture is drawn, the loss of tangent expansion is needed to be added at the hip circumference, and the back side suture is drawn to complete the base plate drawing.

Further, the front waist splitting data and the rear waist splitting data can be adjusted according to the body type and style.

Further, the distribution of the front transverse crotch and the rear transverse crotch is combined with the hip circumferences of the front piece and the rear piece, so that the left and right stress of the crotch trousers piece is ensured to be uniform, and the problem is avoided.

Further, the leg circumference is properly adjusted according to the performance of the fabric and the degree of fit of the leg circumference, and the crotch falling amount is larger as the leg circumference is tighter.

Further, the anterior and posterior hip circumference lines are calculated as 1/4 of the human hip circumference size.

Further, the specific data of 0-1.5cm is larger according to the body type, the larger the hip waist difference is, the larger the value is, the larger the specific data of 0-1cm is according to the body type, the larger the hip waist difference is, namely the larger the waistline is, the smaller the value is.

Further, the more relaxed the leg portions, the less cut, and the more tight the cut.

After the structure is adopted, the invention has the following beneficial effects: the invention relates to a trouser type printing method, which solves the problems of

1. The front and rear middle lines of the traditional playing method are equal in length, and cannot meet the difference of the front middle and rear middle curve length of the leg of the human crotch;

2. the position taking method of the front and rear central lines of the traditional trouser playing method is affected by various uncertainties, and is as follows:

A. influence of gantry width;

B. the effect of front-to-back distribution of the gantry;

C. the impact of the front and back hip distribution (e.g., front hip size-1, back hip size +1);

D. the effect of the amount of cleavage at the transverse crotch line of the side seam;

3. the traditional method for calculating the width of the gantry is not accurate, and is completely the result of a editorial experience;

4. the traditional method has no reasonable calculation method, is the result of the tradition of clapping the brain by experience, has the problem, and has no problem.

Drawings

The accompanying drawings are included to provide a further understanding of the invention and are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification, illustrate the invention and together with the embodiments of the invention, serve to explain the invention.

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a pants-type printing method according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a method for determining k value of a pants-type printing method according to the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a panty printing method according to the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of a conventional trouser printing error zone of a trouser printing method according to the present invention.

Detailed Description

The following description of the embodiments of the present invention will be made clearly and fully with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which it is evident that the embodiments described are only some, but not all embodiments of the invention; all other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.

It is noted that relational terms such as first and second, and the like are used solely to distinguish one entity or action from another entity or action without necessarily requiring or implying any actual such relationship or order between such entities or actions. Moreover, the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus.

As shown in fig. 1-4, a pant printing method comprises the following steps:

referring to fig. 1, a waist-hip circumference part mapping method (skirt method):

(2) The hip circumference line is provided with a side seam auxiliary line (which can be small at the front and big at the back and can be large at the front and small at the back, but the distribution of the front waistline and the back waistline is considered at the same time);

(3) The front waist of the side seam piece is split into 2cm, the rear waist is split into 1cm, and the two sides of the side seam piece (the front and rear data can be adjusted according to the body type and style) are tilted upwards by 0.7cm at the same time;

(4) The back middle piece falls by 1cm, the front and back waist line scribing methods are shown in figure 1, the redundant parts are all of the saved quantity, the total quantity of the back waist is a= (H-W)/4-1+1, wherein 1 is reduced by the splitting quantity of the side seam piece, and 1 is added by the more saved quantity of the back waistline than the front waistline, so that the back waist is more attached; the total front waist is b= (H-W) -2-1, wherein 2 is the splitting amount of the side seam piece, 1 is the front waist is less in the total front waist, H is the hip circumference,

w is waistline;

(5) The front waist province and the rear waist province are drawn according to the front waist province position, the rear waist province position and the waist province amount, the drawing method is shown as a diagram 1, the waist province amount distribution is shown as a diagram 1, and the above is a basic skirt drawing method.

Referring to fig. 2, the K value is precisely calculated according to the specific conditions of the human body and the related style:

the total amount of transverse crotch is accurately calculated according to the root circumference, the hip circumference and the style of human legs, the front transverse crotch line and the rear transverse crotch line are respectively extended outwards, and the distribution of the front transverse crotch and the rear transverse crotch can be combined with the distribution of the hip circumference of the front piece and the rear piece, so that the trouser leg under the crotch is ensured to be stressed uniformly, and the problem is avoided. The crotch falling amount under the back crotch is 0.5-2.5cm, the actual difference of the front and back crotch is 0-1.2cm, (properly adjusted according to the performance of the fabric and the fit degree of the leg bands, and the crotch falling amount is larger as the leg bands are tighter)

(6) Extending the front and back hip line to a pant length dimension;

(7) K value: when a human body stands naturally, the human body is sideways-looking and has a forward tilting angle from buttocks to foot openings, the curve of the middle line behind the legs is obvious and is longer than the front middle line by 1-1.2cm, a vertical line K value line is drawn by an extension point in (8), the K value is calculated to be 0-3cm according to the style loose degree, the other end point of the K value line is connected with a buttock enclosing line, and the K value line is rotated after connection so as to form a vertical line;

(8) 0.1H (calculated as 1/4 of the hip width of the human body or the hip size of the finished product) is taken on each of the front and rear hip circumference lines, and the parallel lines of the trousers long lines are taken as the front and rear central lines. At this time, the difference between the lengths of the front and rear central lines can be seen;

referring to fig. 3, the rear hip line is cut and unfolded according to the magnitude of the K value, and the mapping of each part is performed:

(9) The middle point of the front waist is 0 cm to 1.5cm inwards (the specific data is larger according to the body type, the value is larger as the hip waist difference is larger), and simultaneously 0 cm to 1cm downwards (the specific data is larger according to the body type, the value is larger as the hip waist difference is larger, namely the waistline is smaller as the value is larger), and a waist line and a front wave line are drawn;

(10) The front, back middle crotch and foot mouth are drawn, the front middle crotch and foot mouth half are reduced by 1cm-2cm respectively, the size can be properly adjusted according to specific modeling, the smooth and beautiful line is suitable, and the front piece is added to the middle crotch and foot mouth of the rear piece. Respectively drawing a middle crotch line and a foot mouth line, and connecting the middle crotch line and the foot mouth line to a transverse crotch line;

(11) Cutting back hip circumference line, and cutting 1+K (cm) (the more loose the trouser leg part is, the smaller the cutting amount is, the more the tightening is;

(12) Drawing a crotch line: drawing oblique lines by 1.3-3cm from the intersection point of the crotch falling line and the rear central line of the original skirt piece by 45 degrees (the smaller the closer the numerical value is, the larger the loose numerical value is, and the related calculation formula is arranged), and drawing along the rear crotch seam;

(13) The back side suture is drawn, the loss of tangent expansion is needed to be added at the hip circumference, and the back side suture is drawn to complete the base plate drawing.

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made therein without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents. In summary, if one of ordinary skill in the art is informed by this disclosure, a structural manner and an embodiment similar to the technical solution should not be creatively devised without departing from the gist of the present invention.

Claims

1. A pant printing method, comprising the steps of:

(2) A side seam auxiliary line is drawn in the hip circumference line;

(4) The rear middle piece falls by 1cm, front and rear waist lines are drawn, the redundant parts are all the amount of the left waist, the total amount of the rear waist is a= (H-W)/4-1+1,

wherein 1 is the splitting amount of the side seam sheet, and 1 is the more and more amount of the rear waistline than the front waistline, so that the rear waistline is more attached; the total front waist province is b= (H-W) -2-1, wherein 2 is the splitting amount of the side seam piece, 1 is the front waist less shortening amount, H is the hip circumference, and W is the waistline;

(7) The crotch of the back crotch is fallen 0.5-2.5cm downwards;

(12) Drawing the sizes of the front middle crotch, the rear middle crotch and the foot mouth, wherein the sizes of the front middle crotch and the foot mouth are respectively reduced by 1cm-2cm, the sizes of the front middle crotch and the foot mouth are properly adjusted according to specific modeling, the line is smooth and attractive, the front piece is added to the middle crotch and the foot mouth of the rear piece, the middle crotch and the foot mouth line are respectively drawn, and the front piece is connected to the transverse crotch line;

(13) Cutting back hip line and cutting 1+K (cm);

2. The pant printing method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (3), the front waist splitting and the rear waist splitting data are adjustable according to the body type and style.

3. A pant printing method according to claim 1, wherein in step (6) the front and rear crotch allocations are combined with the front and rear hip circumferences.

4. The pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (7), the leg cuffs are adjusted appropriately according to the performance of the fabric and the fit of the leg cuffs, and the crotch is larger as the leg cuffs are tighter.

5. The pant printing method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (10), the front and rear hip circumference lines are calculated as 1/4 of the human hip circumference.

6. The pant-type printing method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (11), the specific data of 0-1.5cm is larger according to the body type, the larger the hip waist difference is, the larger the value is, and the specific data of 0-1cm is larger according to the body type, the larger the hip waist difference is, namely the larger the waistline is, the smaller the value is.

7. A pant printing method according to claim 1, wherein in step (13), the more relaxed the leg portions are, the smaller the cut and the more tight the cut is.