CN100566613C - A transformation drawing method for the prototype of standard women's box-shaped trousers - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a drawing method for transforming prototypes of standard women's box-shaped trousers. The pants type is determined in proportion to the hip circumference, and the middle crotch size is determined by the pants type; according to the experimental analysis of the pants prototype and the crotch width, crotch depth, and middle crotch change, the change formula of the pants prototype is obtained, as well as the front and rear crotch width, front and rear crotch depth, The unary regression relationship between the amount of warping of the oblique line of the back crotch and the inclination angle of the oblique line of the rear crotch and the middle crotch respectively; combined with the pants prototype transformation drawing method, the structural pattern of the part above the middle crotch is completed; the completed structural pattern of the part above the middle crotch is compared with The overall structural pattern of the trousers is obtained by integrating the structural patterns from the crotch to the ankle designed according to the styles. This method eliminates the constant and cumbersome formula memorization in the previous trouser structure plate making, and is easy to learn and understand.

Description

A transformation drawing method for the prototype of standard women's box-shaped trousers

technical field

The invention belongs to the field of clothing production, in particular to a method for transforming and drawing a prototype of standard women's box-shaped trousers.

Background technique

With the progress of the times, it has become the development trend of the clothing industry to fully consider the differences in people's body shapes, expand the applicability of pants structure design and drawing, and realize personalized services. The research on the trouser prototype structure drawing method satisfies people's diverse needs, improves the quality of garments, ensures that the products are marketable, and adapts to the requirements of modern industrialized garment production and management.

There are various structural design methods (multiple proportional distribution methods, multiple prototype cutting methods, three-dimensional cutting methods, etc.). In trousers, the method of flat plate making and three-dimensional correction is often used. With the revitalization of the garment industry, efficiency is put in the first place. Establishing a more reasonable pants prototype that can be directly applied to trousers plate-making, and researching and designing changes in styles on the basis of this prototype can deepen the drawing principle and improve plate-making efficiency.

At present, people's theoretical research on the structure of bottoms, including trousers, compared with tops, has not yet formed a relatively mature and comprehensive theoretical system. In real life, modern people's demand for trousers is not less than the demand for tops. The human body has a multi-curved three-dimensional structure at the waist, buttocks, and legs, which constitutes the complexity of the trousers structure, while the lower limbs support the human body when standing. It not only has the function of linking the movement of the upper body, but also has a wide range of movement itself. At present, the research on trousers mainly focuses on the relationship between trousers structure and human body, but not too much attention is paid to the relationship between trousers structure and fabric performance, and the relationship with shape deformation structure, but comfort and beauty are important in actual production and design. Both are equally important. In the research process, we should never lose sight of one and lose the other. We should consider the relationship and balance various factors.

Contents of the invention

technical problem to be solved

The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a method for transforming and drawing the prototype of standard women's box-shaped trousers, so as to solve the problems in the prior art that the plate-making design of trousers is flat and not intuitive, and how to shape such unconventional structures It is decomposed into plane paper samples, and the problems from qualitative analysis to quantitative panel making are accurately solved.

Technical solutions

The technical solution adopted by the present invention to solve the technical problem is: provide a method for transforming the prototype of a standard women's box-shaped trousers, including the following steps:

(1) Use the female lower body model to conduct three-dimensional experiments, and obtain the prototype of the fitted box pants;

(2) The trousers are classified according to the mid-range size, and the trousers type is determined by the ratio of the mid-crotch size to the hip circumference in the style diagram, and the mid-crotch size is determined by the trousers type;

(3) According to the experimental analysis of the trouser prototype and the changes in crotch width, crotch depth, and mid-range, the formula for the change of the trouser prototype, as well as the front and rear crotch width, front and rear crotch depth, rear crotch oblique line warping amount, and rear crotch oblique line inclination angle θ are obtained The unary regression relationship with the mid-range size: Y _{rear crotch lift} = 6.266-0.105 X _mid-range , Y _tan0 = 3.924-0.0575 X _mid-range , Y _{front crotch width} = 2.621+0.0428 X _mid-range , Y _{front crotch depth} =9.044-0.0249·X _mid-range , Y _{rear crotch width} =5.292+0.0686 X _mid-range , Y _{rear crotch depth} =11.987-0.0697·X _mid-range ;

(4) According to the conclusions drawn in steps (1), (2), (3) and in conjunction with the trousers prototype conversion drawing method, complete the structural pattern of the part above the mid-crotch line;

(5) Integrate the completed structural pattern above the crotch line with the structural pattern from the mid-crotch line to the foot opening designed according to the style requirements to obtain the overall structural pattern of the trousers.

The step (3) is to transform the template change produced by the change of trousers type into distribution and conversion of exercise looseness in different positions.

The trousers prototype is suitable for making trousers of non-elastic woven fabrics.

The main three-dimensional constituent element of the box-shaped trousers prototype in the present invention is the trousers prototype float, which refers to the float of the buttocks above the hip line (HL) due to the bulge of the buttocks when the cloth is covered on the curved surface of the human body. The amount of bulge and the amount of belly float produced by the bulge of the abdomen. The processing of the trousers prototype float is the key to keep the balance of the trousers structure. The collection of the front floating allowance of the box-type trousers prototype makes the abdominal convex line a horizontal line, and the collection of the rear floating allowance makes the hip circumference a horizontal line (see Figure 1).

Through the distribution test of the static surplus of the standard women's box-shaped trousers prototype, the standard women's box-shaped trousers prototype (see Figure 2) and its manufacturing method have been obtained in non-stretch woven fabrics.

According to the adaptive analysis of the pant prototype and the dynamic and static characteristics of the human body, the present invention finds that when the pant type is changed from skirt trousers to tight-fit trousers, the amount of leg space combined with skirt trousers, that is, the amount of movement looseness there, does not disappear out of thin air, but It is transferred to other places, and the movement looseness of this part is reflected in another form: ①As shown in Figure 3, in the front piece, the crotch depth increases by ▲ ₁ while the angle of ∑ ₁ increases. Exercise looseness; ②Cut along the hip line at point A, and the stretch from here ▲ ₄ is obtained after transferring the looseness of part I in the front piece; ③In the back piece, increase the depth of the crotch ▲ ₂ , ∑ ₂ The increasing angle of ∑ 2 transfers the movement looseness of the J part; ④ cuts at the point B along the hip line, and the stretching amount from here ▲ ₃ is the movement looseness of the K part in the back piece Obtained, the result is the increase of the inclination angle θ of the rear crotch line and the growth of the oblique line of the rear crotch (see Figure 3).

Therefore, we divide the trousers according to the mid-range size, as shown in the table below, as the basis for the prototype application of box trousers.

Mid crotch M trousers Remark M＞H/2+body thickness cm wide angle pants M＝H/2+body thickness cm Culottes M＝H/2+(3~5)cm large straight pants M＝H/2±1cm straight leg pants M＝H/2-(1~3)cm Small straight pants M＝H/2-(3~6)cm boot cut pant According to the size of the foot mouth, it can also be divided into: micro flared pants; small trumpet

And the calculation formulas of k, j, h, l in Fig. 3 are obtained:

k=x- _{back of} the middle crotch/2; j=y- _{back of} the middle crotch/2; h=w- _{front of} the middle crotch/2; l=z- _{front of} the middle crotch/2

The unary regression relationship between front and rear crotch width, front and rear crotch depth, rear crotch oblique line warpage and rear crotch oblique line inclination θ and middle crotch size respectively:

Y _{rear crotch warping amount} = 6.266-0.105 X _mid-range

Y _tanθ ＝3.924-0.0575 X _mid-range

Y _{front crotch width} = 2.621+0.0428 X _mid-range

Y _{front crotch depth} = 9.044-0.0249 X _mid-range

Y _{back crotch width} = 5.292+0.0686 X _mid-range

Y _{rear crotch depth} = 11.987-0.0697 X _mid-range

The application method (see Fig. 4) of prototype plate-making of fitted box-shaped women's trousers is applicable to any design of changing structure of fitted women's trousers.

Beneficial effect

The invention adapts to the trend of scientific and industrialization of the clothing industry, and obtains a prototype manufacturing method of standard women's trousers on the basis of the analysis of the combination of the human body and the trousers structure and the three-dimensional test. This method gives full play to the advantages of the prototype drawing method, which is easy to understand and operate, avoids the constant and cumbersome formula memory in the previous trouser structure plate making, and can better reflect the relationship between the human body and the trouser structure, deepening the trouser structure. Theoretical research is convenient to combine the analysis of human body characteristics in the drawing, and make the required trouser pattern according to the different trouser types. The method is simple, easy to learn and easy to understand. It opens up a new chapter in the theoretical research of trousers structure, and further expands the ideas and methods of trousers structural design. It has good practicability and economic value potential, and has great practical significance for improving the industrial production efficiency of the garment industry.

Description of drawings

Fig. 1 The three-dimensional shape of the prototype of the fit box pants.

Fig. 2 Prototype of standard women's fit box pants in non-stretch woven fabric.

Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of the transfer of exercise looseness with the change of trousers type.

Figure 4 is a flow chart of the plate-making method for the prototype of fitted box-shaped women's trousers.

Figure 5 is a diagram of the style of pants with curve structure division.

Figure 6 Prototype drawing process (1).

Figure 7 Prototype drawing process (2).

Figure 8 Prototype drawing process (3).

Figure 9 Prototype drawing process (4).

Figure 10 Prototype drawing process (5).

Figure 11 Prototype drawing process (6).

Fig. 12 Net portion paper pattern of trousers structure.

Fig. 13 Gross paper pattern of trousers structure.

Detailed ways

Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, further illustrate the present invention. It should be understood that these examples are only used to illustrate the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. In addition, it should be understood that after reading the teachings of the present invention, those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications to the present invention, and these equivalent forms also fall within the scope defined by the appended claims of the present application.

Taking the structural design of trousers with curved structure lines as an example (the style diagram is shown in Figure 5), the application method of the prototype plate-making of fitted box-shaped women's trousers will be described. The specific steps are as follows:

(1) Analyzing the style diagram in Figure 5, this is a pair of trousers with unconventional structural lines, that is, the side seams of this type of women's trousers are not distributed on the inner and outer sides of the human body as usual, and the branches are downward when worn. Instead of a straight line, the style has been changed. The dividing line is in a curved state and is not distributed on the inside and outside of the human body. Using the principle of trousers prototype drawing method to analyze the human body, we can get the pattern of the trousers. From the picture, we can also see that this type of trousers is a small straight type; the front and rear pieces of the trousers have curved dividing lines, and the position of the dividing lines can be obtained from the style shown on the way; there are no inner and outer seams; the hip line of the front trousers up to the waist. There are no darts, and it is connected with the back piece as one piece; the back pant piece has two darts.

(2) Determine the specification size of the style. In this example, the standard female trousers size 160/84A is used. The basic body size table of this specification is as follows:

type waist height inner length hip height knee height waistline Hips Knee Wai 160/84A 98cm 74cm 78cm 41cm 64cm 87cm 35cm

From the analysis of the style in step (1), it is found that the type of trousers belongs to the fit and small straight type, so the basic size of this type of women's trousers should be:

Pants length waistline Hips mid-range Foot mouth 102cm 66cm 90cm 40cm 40cm

(3) Draw the knee circumference line on the drawing paper, and extend the front and rear pant panels of the prototype along the knee circumference line in the drawing, as shown in Figure 6.

(4) According to the formula 1, calculate the amount to be reduced in the mid-range size on both sides of the front and rear trousers seams, that is, the movement looseness k, j, h, l to be reduced in the trousers. Determine the paper pattern between the knee line and the foot line, see Figure 7.

(5) Merge the shadows K, J, H, and L, and transfer the looseness of the trousers to the crotch through stretch cutting. See Figure 8.

(6) Since this type of trousers has no conventional inner and outer seams, we first stitch the inner and outer seams of the upper and lower parts of the knee circumference of the basic type obtained in the previous step, respectively, as shown in Figure 9.

(7) On the basic pattern spliced by the basic shape of small straight-leg pants, we determine the division curve according to the style diagram, as shown in Figure 10, the curve should pass through the provincial point as much as possible, which can facilitate the transfer and merger of saving . Draw along the curve of the crotch.

(8) Combine the front waist darts, and draw the waist folding door according to the style picture, as shown in Figure 11.

(9) As shown in Figure 12, connect the upper and lower parts of the knee circumference of each segment at the knee circumference. Draw the contour curve of the paper pattern along each part.

(10) Arrange the curves of each part, put the seams together, and obtain the paper pattern, as shown in Figure 13.

Claims (3)

1. the cartographic method of a standard women box-type trousers antetype comprises the following steps:

(1) utilizes woman's lower body model to carry out the solid experiment, draw fit box trousers prototype;

(2) carry out the classification of trousers type with middle-grade size, and determine the trousers type, crotch size in determining by the trousers type by middle crotch size and hip circumference ratio among the style figure;

(3) loose according to trousers prototype and crotch, crotch is dark, the analysis of experiments of middle-grade change in size, draws the variation formula of trousers prototype, and the front and back crotch is wide, the front and back crotch is dark, seat oblique line rising quantity and seat oblique line inclination angle [theta] respectively with the simple regression relational expression of middle-grade size: Y _{The seat rising quantity}=6.266-0.105X _Middle-grade, Y _Tan0=3.924-0.0575X _Middle-grade, Y _{Before Crotch is wide}=2.621+0.0428X _Middle-grade, Y _{Preceding crotch is dark}=9.044-0.0249X _Middle-grade, Y _{Seat is wide}=5.292+0.0686X _{In Shelves}, Y _{Seat is dark}=11.987-0.0697X _Middle-grade

(4) conclusion that is drawn according to step (1), (2), (3) and in conjunction with trousers prototype cartographic method, the crotch line is with the structure pattern on top in finishing;

(5) the middle crotch line that will finish is with the structure pattern on top and the overall structure pattern that obtains fitted pants according to the required middle crotch line of designing of style to the structure pattern integration of pin mouth.

2. the cartographic method of a kind of standard women box-type trousers antetype according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described step (3) is that the model that the variation with the trousers type produces turns to distribution and the conversion of motion loose measure at diverse location.

3. the cartographic method of a kind of standard women box-type trousers antetype according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described fitted pants prototype is applicable to does not have the making that plays the shuttle-woven fabric fitted pants.

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