CN100566613C - A kind of cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype - Google Patents
A kind of cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype Download PDFInfo
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- CN100566613C CN100566613C CNB2007101722452A CN200710172245A CN100566613C CN 100566613 C CN100566613 C CN 100566613C CN B2007101722452 A CNB2007101722452 A CN B2007101722452A CN 200710172245 A CN200710172245 A CN 200710172245A CN 100566613 C CN100566613 C CN 100566613C
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype, comprise and utilize woman's lower body model to carry out the solid experiment, draw fit box trousers prototype; Carry out the classification of trousers type with middle crotch size, and determine the trousers type, crotch size in determining by the trousers type by middle crotch and hip circumference ratio among the style figure; The analysis of experiments loose according to trousers prototype and crotch, that crotch is dark, middle crotch changes draws the variation formula of trousers prototype, and the front and back crotch is wide, the front and back crotch dark, seat oblique line rising quantity and seat oblique line inclination angle respectively with the simple regression relational expression of middle crotch; In conjunction with trousers prototype cartographic method, crotch is with the structure pattern on top in finishing; The middle crotch of finishing is integrated the overall structure pattern that obtains fitted pants with the structure pattern on top and according to the required middle crotch of designing of style to the structure pattern of pin mouth.This method has been removed constant and loaded down with trivial details formula memory in fitted pants lithographic structure in the past from, and is easy to learn, understands easily.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to the clothing making field, particularly relate to a kind of cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype.
Background technology
Along with the progress in epoch, take into full account people's size difference, the applicability of expansion trousers designing and mapping realizes personalized service, becomes the trend of apparel industry development.The research of trousers prototype structure cartography is satisfied people's variation and is come, and in improving clothes ready-made clothes quality, guarantees that product is marketable, adapts to the requirement of modern industrialization garment production and management.
Construction design method is diversified (multiple proportionate allocation, multiple prototype cutting method, three-dimensional cutting method etc.).In fitted pants, how to make a plate the method for three-dimensional revisal with the plane.Along with the development of apparel industry, efficient has been placed on the first place, sets up more rationally and can directly apply to the trousers prototype of fitted pants plate-making, and the variation design of style is carried out in research on this prototype basis, can deepen the drawing principle, improves plate-making efficient.
At present people dress is down comprised fitted pants structural theory research from situation both domestic and external, with on the ratio of pretending, also form the comprehensive theoretical system of comparative maturity far away.And in real life the modern to the demand of fitted pants and be not less than on the demand of dress, human body is the stereochemical structure of many curved surfaces at waist, stern, shank, constituted the complexity of trousers, and lower limb are the significant points when supporting human body and standing, it not only has the motor function of getting in touch with half body, and itself also has broad range of movement.At present the research of fitted pants is mainly concentrated on the relation of fitted pants structure and human body, and to the relation of fitted pants structure and lining performance, reach with the relation of moulding distressed structure and too much do not pay close attention to, but comfortable and attractive in appearance actual production and the design in occupy the no less important status, do not burst and should attend to one thing and lose sight of another at research process, want related and consider balance various factors.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved
Technical problem to be solved by this invention provides a kind of cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype, solving in the prior art, fitted pants plate-making design planeization, problem and how this type of offbeat form moulding is decomposed into paper pattern, the problem from qualitative analysis to quantitative making sheet accurately intuitively not.
Technical scheme
The technical solution adopted for the present invention to solve the technical problems is: a kind of cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype is provided, comprises the following steps:
(1) utilizes woman's lower body model to carry out the solid experiment, draw fit box trousers prototype;
(2) carry out the classification of trousers type with middle-grade size, and determine the trousers type, crotch size in determining by the trousers type by middle crotch size and hip circumference ratio among the style figure;
(3) loose according to trousers prototype and crotch, crotch is dark, the analysis of experiments of middle-grade variation, draws the variation formula of trousers prototype, and the front and back crotch is wide, the front and back crotch is dark, seat oblique line rising quantity and seat oblique line inclination angle [theta] respectively with the simple regression relational expression of middle-grade size: Y
The seat rising quantity=6.266-0.105X
Middle-grade, Y
Tan0=3.924-0.0575X
Middle-grade, Y
Preceding crotch is wide=2.621+0.0428X
Middle-grade, Y
Preceding crotch is dark=9.044-0.0249X
Middle-grade, Y
Seat is wide=5.292+0.0686X
Middle-grade, Y
Seat is dark=11.987-0.0697X
Middle-grade
(4) conclusion that is drawn according to step (1), (2), (3) and in conjunction with trousers prototype cartographic method, the crotch line is with the structure pattern on top in finishing;
(5) the middle crotch line that will finish is with the structure pattern on top and the overall structure pattern that obtains fitted pants according to the required middle crotch line of designing of style to the structure pattern integration of pin mouth.
Described step (3) is that the model that the variation of trousers type produces is turned to distribution and the conversion of motion loose measure at diverse location.
Described fitted pants prototype is applicable to does not have the making that plays the shuttle-woven fabric fitted pants.
The main three-dimensional composition key element of this box fitted pants prototype of the present invention is the floating surplus of trousers prototype, be meant with cloth to be laminated with when the human body curved-surface shape the above because amount that the buttocks that the buttocks projection produces floats of hipline (HL) and float surplus by the protruding belly that produces of belly.The processing of the floating surplus of trousers prototype is the key that keeps the fitted pants constitutional balance.Floating collecting of surplus made horizontal line with the abdomen convex line before this box fitted pants prototype, and floating the collecting of surplus in back made the horizontal line (see figure 1) with hipline.
By the distribution test of the static floating surplus of standard women box-type trousers antetype, obtained not having the fit box trousers of standard woman body prototype (see figure 2) that plays shuttle-woven fabric and preparation method thereof.
The present invention by trousers prototype and human body sound too feature analyze adaptively, discover when the trousers type is varied to tight body trousers by divided skirt, the motion loose measure that the shank pore volume that divided skirt merges promptly should be located does not disappear without foundation, but transferred to other place, the embodiment of other form has appearred in this componental movement loose measure: 1. as shown in Figure 3, in anter with crotch strengthen deeply ▲
1The while ∑
1The situation that angle increases has shifted the motion loose measure of H part; 2. cut off at A point place along hipline, amount of tension from here ▲
4Promptly be to obtain after I loose measure partly shifts in the anter; 3. in rear panel, with crotch strengthen deeply ▲
2, ∑
2The situation that angle increases has shifted the motion loose measure of J part; 4. cut off at B point place along hipline, amount of tension from here ▲
3The motion loose measure transfer that is K part in the rear panel obtains, and the result is the increase seat oblique line growth simultaneously (see figure 3) of seat line tilt angle theta.
We divide with middle-grade size that trousers are capable to see the following form thus, the basis of using as box fitted pants prototype.
| Middle crotch M | The trousers type | Remarks |
| M＞H/2+ people's body thickness cm | Wide angle trousers | |
| M=H/2+ people's body thickness cm | Divided skirt | |
| M＝H/2+(3~5)cm | Big straight legs | |
| M＝H/2±1cm | Middle straight legs | |
| M＝H/2-(1~3)cm | Little straight legs | |
| M＝H/2-(3~6)cm | Flared trousers | Can also be divided into according to pin mouth size: little loudspeaker trousers; Toy trumpet |
And obtained k among Fig. 3, j, h, the computing formula of l:
Crotch among the k=x-
After/ 2; Crotch among the j=y-
After/ 2; Crotch among the h=w-
Before/ 2; Crotch among the l=z-
Before/ 2
Before and after dark, the seat oblique line rising quantity of wide, the front and back crotch of crotch and seat oblique line inclination angle [theta] respectively with the simple regression relational expression of middle crotch size:
Y
The seat rising quantity=6.266-0.105X
Middle-grade
Y
Tan θ=3.924-0.0575X
Middle-grade
Y
Preceding crotch is wide=2.621+0.0428X
Middle-grade
Y
Preceding crotch is dark=9.044-0.0249X
Middle-grade
Y
Seat is wide=5.292+0.0686X
Middle-grade
Y
Seat is dark=11.987-0.0697X
Middle-grade
The application process (see figure 4) of fit box woman fitted pants prototype plate-making is applicable to that any fit woman's fitted pants change structure Design.
Beneficial effect
The present invention has adapted to scientific, the industrialized trend of clothes industry, on the basis of analysis that human body combines with the fitted pants structure and stereotest, has obtained a kind of preparation method of standard woman body fitted pants prototype.This method is given full play to the prototype cartography and is convenient to the advantage understanding and operate, constant and loaded down with trivial details formula memory in fitted pants lithographic structure have in the past been removed from, and can embody the relation of human body and fitted pants structure preferably, deepened the research of fitted pants structural theory, be convenient in drawing, analyze in conjunction with the characteristics of human body, make needed fitted pants pattern according to the difference of trousers type, method is easy to learn, understands easily.Open up brand-new one page of fitted pants structural theory research, further expanded the thinking and the method for fitted pants system structural design.Having good practicality and economic worth potentiality, is to have very big realistic meaning for the industrial production efficient that improves apparel industry.
Description of drawings
The solid shape of the fit box trousers of Fig. 1 prototype.
Fig. 2 does not have the fit box trousers of the standard woman body prototype that plays shuttle-woven fabric.
Fig. 3 is with the transfer schematic diagram of the varying motion loose measure of trousers type.
The fit box woman of Fig. 4 fitted pants prototype method for platemaking flow chart.
Fig. 5 curvilinear structures is cut apart trousers style figure.
Fig. 6 prototype cartography process (one).
Fig. 7 prototype cartography process (two).
Fig. 8 prototype cartography process (three).
Fig. 9 prototype cartography process (four).
Figure 10 prototype cartography process (five).
Figure 11 prototype cartography process (six).
The clean part pattern of Figure 12 fitted pants structure.
Figure 13 fitted pants structure hair part pattern.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.Should be understood that these embodiment only to be used to the present invention is described and be not used in and limit the scope of the invention.Should be understood that in addition those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications the present invention after the content of having read the present invention's instruction, these equivalent form of values fall within the application's appended claims institute restricted portion equally.
The structural design of cutting apart trousers with the curvilinear structures line is example (style figure such as Fig. 5) below, and the application process of fit box woman's fitted pants prototype plate-making is described, and concrete steps are as follows:
(1) analysis chart 5 style figure, this is the fitted pants that a offbeat form line is cut apart, the latasuture line that is these slacks is not the interior lateral surface that is distributed in human body according to routine, be the downward straight line kenel of branch under the state wearing, but carried out the variation on the style, the curved state of cut-off rule and be not distributed in the interior lateral surface of human body.Utilization fitted pants prototype drawing ratio juris is carried out the analysis in conjunction with human body, and we can obtain the pattern of this trousers type.By we can also see that this trousers type belongs to little straight barrel type among the figure; The front and back sheet of trouser legs has the curve segmentation line respectively, and the cut-off rule position can obtain shown in the style way; There is not interior external latasuture; Preceding trousers sheet hipline is above to waist.Do not have and economize, and be connected to a slice with rear panel; Rear trouser plate has two provinces.
(2) determine the specification of style.This routine employing standard woman body fitted pants type 160/84A, this specification human body basic size table is as follows:
| Number type | The waist height | Interior long | The stern height | Knee height | Waistline | Hip circumference | Knee circumference |
| 160/84A | 98cm | 74cm | 78cm | 41cm | 64cm | 87cm | 35cm |
Obtains this trousers type by the style analysis of step (1) and belong to fit little straight barrel type, so the basic size of these slacks should be:
| Trousers length | Waistline | Hip circumference | Middle-grade | The pin mouth |
| 102cm | 66cm | 90cm | 40cm | 40cm |
(3) the knee circumference line that in kent, draws, along the knee circumference line with prototype before rear trouser plate open up in drawing, as Fig. 6.
(4) by formula divide 1 not calculate the amount that the middle-grade size in preceding rear trouser plate seam line both sides will reduce, the motion loose measure k that promptly will reduce, j, h, l at the trouser legs position.Determine that the knee circumference line to the pattern between pin mouth line, sees Fig. 7.
(5) with shade K, J, H, L merges, and crotch portion is cut, transferred to the motion loose measure of trouser legs part by exhibition.See Fig. 8.
(6) because this kind of trousers type does not have conventional interior external latasuture line, therefore, two parts were carried out the splicing of interior external latasuture respectively about we at first will go up the knee circumference line that goes on foot the basic model that obtains, and saw Fig. 9.
(7) spliced by little straight legs basic model on the good basic pattern, we cut apart the definite of curve according to style figure, and as shown in figure 10, curve will pass through the position of economizing point as far as possible, like this can be so that the transfer merging of province's amount.Draw curve along crotch portion.
(8) merge front waist dart, and according to the style figure folded door of waist that draws, as Figure 11.
(9) as shown in figure 12, the knee circumference line that will cut apart each sheet up and down two parts connect at knee circumference line place.Draw along a position pattern contour curve.
(10) an arrangement position curve is put seam, obtains pattern, sees Figure 13.
Claims (3)
1. the cartographic method of a standard women box-type trousers antetype comprises the following steps:
(1) utilizes woman's lower body model to carry out the solid experiment, draw fit box trousers prototype;
(2) carry out the classification of trousers type with middle-grade size, and determine the trousers type, crotch size in determining by the trousers type by middle crotch size and hip circumference ratio among the style figure;
(3) loose according to trousers prototype and crotch, crotch is dark, the analysis of experiments of middle-grade change in size, draws the variation formula of trousers prototype, and the front and back crotch is wide, the front and back crotch is dark, seat oblique line rising quantity and seat oblique line inclination angle [theta] respectively with the simple regression relational expression of middle-grade size: Y
The seat rising quantity=6.266-0.105X
Middle-grade, Y
Tan0=3.924-0.0575X
Middle-grade, Y
Before Crotch is wide=2.621+0.0428X
Middle-grade, Y
Preceding crotch is dark=9.044-0.0249X
Middle-grade, Y
Seat is wide=5.292+0.0686X
In Shelves, Y
Seat is dark=11.987-0.0697X
Middle-grade
(4) conclusion that is drawn according to step (1), (2), (3) and in conjunction with trousers prototype cartographic method, the crotch line is with the structure pattern on top in finishing;
(5) the middle crotch line that will finish is with the structure pattern on top and the overall structure pattern that obtains fitted pants according to the required middle crotch line of designing of style to the structure pattern integration of pin mouth.
2. the cartographic method of a kind of standard women box-type trousers antetype according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described step (3) is that the model that the variation with the trousers type produces turns to distribution and the conversion of motion loose measure at diverse location.
3. the cartographic method of a kind of standard women box-type trousers antetype according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described fitted pants prototype is applicable to does not have the making that plays the shuttle-woven fabric fitted pants.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNB2007101722452A CN100566613C (en) | 2007-12-13 | 2007-12-13 | A kind of cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNB2007101722452A CN100566613C (en) | 2007-12-13 | 2007-12-13 | A kind of cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN101199371A CN101199371A (en) | 2008-06-18 |
| CN100566613C true CN100566613C (en) | 2009-12-09 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNB2007101722452A Expired - Fee Related CN100566613C (en) | 2007-12-13 | 2007-12-13 | A kind of cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype |
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Families Citing this family (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN211558932U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-09-25 | 许宗保 | Golden proportion type panty model, panty |
| CN211747247U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-10-27 | 许宗保 | Golden proportion type male trousers sample plate and male trousers |
| CN110623327B (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2024-01-05 | 许宗保 | Golden ratio skirt template, skirt and skirt plate making method |
| CN211092062U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-07-28 | 许宗保 | Golden proportion type skirt model, skirt |
| CN112385924B (en) * | 2020-11-18 | 2023-05-09 | 肖永旺 | Trousers type printing method |
| CN113367415B (en) * | 2021-06-17 | 2023-01-06 | 徐先坤 | Female trousers prototype tailoring method |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| CN101199371A (en) | 2008-06-18 |
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| C14 | Grant of patent or utility model | ||
| GR01 | Patent grant | ||
| ASS | Succession or assignment of patent right |
Owner name: ZHANG ZUFANG YANG TING SHU CHONGHUA XIE DONGMEI ZH |
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| C53 | Correction of patent for invention or patent application | ||
| CB03 | Change of inventor or designer information |
Inventor after: Zhang Zufang Inventor after: Yang Ting Inventor after: Shu Zhonghua Inventor after: Xie Dongmei Inventor after: Zhang Hualing Inventor before: Zhang Zufang Inventor before: Yang Ting |
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| COR | Change of bibliographic data |
Free format text: CORRECT: INVENTOR; FROM: ZHANG ZUFANG YANG TING TO: ZHANG ZUFANG YANG TING SHU CHONGHUA XIE DONGMEIZHANG HUALING |
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| TR01 | Transfer of patent right |
Effective date of registration: 20100612 Address after: 201620 Shanghai, Songjiang new town, North Road, No. 2999 people Co-patentee after: Zhang Zufang Patentee after: Donghua University Co-patentee after: Yang Ting Co-patentee after: Shu Zhonghua Co-patentee after: Xie Dongmei Co-patentee after: Zhang Hualing Address before: 201620 Shanghai, Songjiang new town, North Road, No. 2999 people Patentee before: Donghua University |
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Granted publication date: 20091209 Termination date: 20121213 |