CN112107061A - Method for designing personalized customized clothing pattern grading system - Google Patents
Method for designing personalized customized clothing pattern grading system Download PDFInfo
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- CN112107061A CN112107061A CN202011127421.2A CN202011127421A CN112107061A CN 112107061 A CN112107061 A CN 112107061A CN 202011127421 A CN202011127421 A CN 202011127421A CN 112107061 A CN112107061 A CN 112107061A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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Abstract
The invention discloses a method for designing a personalized customized clothing pattern grading system, which specifically comprises the following steps: step 1, designing a primary template containing human body characteristics; step 2, determining the style type of the garment to be customized, and designing a secondary sample plate containing style type commonality according to the primary sample plate; and 3, designing the customized personalized clothing template according to the second-level template, namely a third-level template. The invention can realize the quick response to the personalized clothing customization, improve the flexibility and the fitness of the personalized clothing customization, reduce the production period of the personalized clothing customization and is beneficial to the personalized clothing customization digitalization.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of garment design and engineering, and relates to a method for designing a personalized customized garment pattern grading system.
Background
Along with the improvement of living standard of people, people not only require clothes to be comfortable and beautiful, but also require the clothes to be more fit and personalized. At present, the production mode of clothing enterprises is gradually shifted to the personalized customization with quick response from large-scale batch production, and in order to meet the diversified demands of clothing products, the research on the personalized clothing pattern generation technology becomes a hotspot and trend of the industry, however, the generation of the clothing pattern in the personalized clothing customization process has great dependence on a stylist and has low efficiency and precision.
At present, the personalized pattern of the garment is generated mainly by the following methods: firstly, obtaining an individualized sample plate by utilizing the rapid combination among style components in a style component library; subdividing the body types based on a large amount of body data, arranging different substrates for different body types, and generating a fit sample plate through code grading; parameterizing a design template; and fourthly, unfolding the three-dimensional clothes to form a two-dimensional paper pattern. However, due to the different human body detail forms, the template is often required to be readjusted by the stylist. Therefore, the existing personalized clothing sample plate is not really designed according to the individual human body characteristics, and the fit of the clothing and the generation efficiency of the sample plate are not high enough. And the existing clothes style components provided by the system are arranged and combined in the current personalized customization of clothes, and no new style element is generated. The flexibility of garment personalization templates is insufficient.
Aiming at the requirements of multiple varieties, small batch and short period in the clothing market, a more effective method is needed for personalized template design, and the flexibility and the fitness of the template design are improved to meet the personalized requirements of consumers.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for designing a personalized garment template grading system, which can realize quick response to personalized garment customization, improve the flexibility and the fit of the personalized garment customization, reduce the production cycle of the personalized customization and is beneficial to personalized customization digitalization of the garment.
The invention adopts the technical scheme that a method for designing a personalized customized clothing pattern grading system specifically comprises the following steps:
and 3, designing the customized personalized clothing template according to the second-level template, namely a third-level template.
The present invention is also characterized in that,
when the first-level sample plate basic line is designed in the step 1, the method specifically comprises the following steps:
step a), determining the width of a first-level sample plate and the lengths of the front sample plate and the rear sample plate of the first-level sample plate;
b), determining the positions of a front neck point and a back neck point of the sample plate according to the front-middle length and the back length;
step c), determining the positions of front and rear neck points of the sample plate according to the front neck width and the rear neck width;
step d), determining the position of the chest circumference line of the sample plate according to the distance from the front neck point to the chest circumference reference line;
step e), determining the position of a sample plate side suture line by 2+ 45% of the chest circumference a, wherein a is half of the releasing amount of the chest circumference;
and f), respectively determining the positions of the chest width line and the back width line according to the lengths of the chest width/2 + 30% a and the back width/2 + 40% a of the human body.
In the step a), the length of the human body (chest circumference plus chest circumference relaxation amount)/2 is taken as the width of the primary sample plate, and the front and rear sample plate lengths of the primary sample plate are determined according to the front waist length and the rear waist length of the human body.
When the secondary sample plate is designed in the step 2, the method for determining the height of the sleeve top comprises the following steps: the height from 1/2 points of the front and back shoulder points to the chest line is measured as h, and 5/6 of h is taken as the height of the sleeve hill.
In step 3, when the three-level sample plate is designed, the method for eliminating the floating allowance of the clothes body comprises the following steps: the chest province is merged and transferred to the underarm province under the armpit; making a vertical line of a rear midline at the end point of the shoulder province, wherein the vertical line is the rear piece brooding position of the three-level sample plate, transferring 1/2 of the shoulder province to the brooding position, and eliminating by utilizing brooding; the remainders 1/2 of the shoulder area are removed by sewing after the shoulder line is trimmed.
The invention has the advantages that the invention decomposes a personalized clothing pattern into three steps, namely, the design of the personalized clothing pattern is gradually increased by adopting the mode of 'first-level pattern → second-level pattern → third-level pattern', the personalized clothing can fully reflect the human body characteristics by the first-level pattern, the basic type of the personalized clothing is ensured by the second-level pattern, and the personalized clothing pattern with high fitness is finally formed. The method ensures the efficiency and the fitness of the personalized clothing template generation, reduces the repetitive work of a typist, improves the flexibility of the personalized template design, and provides an idea for the digitization of the personalized clothing customization template design due to the strong logicality of the systematic design.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic schematic view of a deployed body surface;
FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of the bulk distribution of a female upper body primary template;
FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a base line of a first-level pattern completed in a method for designing a personalized custom grading system for clothing patterns according to the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the chest cone and cone expansion surface in a method for designing a personalized custom clothing pattern grading system according to the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a first level pattern of a method for designing a personalized custom garment pattern grading system according to the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a graphical illustration of a assortment of female shirts in a method of design for a custom-made sloper grading system;
FIGS. 7(a), (b) are diagrams of the style of a blouse in a method of design for a customized template grading system according to the present invention;
FIGS. 8(a), (b) are block diagrams of the length and bust variation of the second level pattern in a method of personalized grading garment pattern system design according to the present invention;
FIGS. 9(a), (b) are two-level body structure diagrams of a method of designing a customized grading system for clothing patterns according to the present invention;
FIG. 10 is a diagram of a secondary template collar structure in a method of design for a personalized custom garment template grading system according to the present invention;
FIG. 11 is a schematic diagram illustrating the determination of the sleeve height in a method for designing a customized grading system for garment patterns according to the present invention;
FIG. 12 is a schematic diagram of the determination of sleeve fertilizer in a method for designing a customized garment pattern grading system;
FIG. 13 is a two-level template sleeve structure diagram of a method of the present invention for a personalized custom design of a sloper grading system;
FIGS. 14(a), (b) are diagrams of personalized blouse styles in a method of design for a personalized custom-made template-based grading system of the present invention;
FIGS. 15(a), (b) are block diagrams of the length and bust variation of the three-level pattern in a method of the present invention for personalized custom grading system of garment patterns;
FIGS. 16(a), (b) are three-level template body structure diagrams of a method of the present invention for designing a personalized customized grading system for garment templates;
FIG. 17 is a diagram of a three level pattern collar structure in a method of the present invention for a personalized custom garment pattern grading system design;
FIG. 18 is a schematic diagram showing the determination of sleeve height, sleeve fat and armhole arc of three-level template in the method for designing a personalized garment template grading system;
FIG. 19 is a three level template sleeve structure diagram for a method of designing a personalized custom garment template grading system according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.
The invention is completed by the process of decomposing the personalized sample plate into a first-level sample plate → a second-level sample plate → a third-level sample plate, and the experience of the design of the personalized sample plate is decomposed into the process, thereby simplifying the complex problem and realizing the systematic design of the clothing personalized sample plate.
The invention relates to a method for designing a garment template grading system for personalized customization, which comprises the following specific steps:
the design of the first-level template is completed, and the body shape characteristics, the body structure and the shape and the breathing looseness of the human body are fully considered. The method for completing the first-level template design can be selected according to practical situations, for example: the human body is directly unfolded to form a plane through three-dimensional cutting, three-dimensional human body to two-dimensional plane conversion, graphics principle and the like.
determining a second-level template, determining the garment type of the customized garment, fully investigating the garment type, and analyzing the common style of the garment type, wherein the style comprises all the components of the garment type, has universal applicability, can make any style change, and fits human body as much as possible; then observing whether the body characteristics of the customer of the custom-made clothes are insufficient, such as the conditions of high shoulder and low shoulder; and finally, modifying the human body deficiency on the basis of the primary sample plate, and drawing a common style sample plate to finish the design of a secondary sample plate.
Step 3, designing a personalized clothing template to be customized according to the second-level template, namely a third-level template;
and determining a three-level template, determining the customized personalized clothing style, the configuration of materials, the clothing function, the performance of the materials, the clothing process, the thickness of the fabric and other factors, and then finishing the design of the three-level template on the basis of the two-level template.
Example (b): take the design of personalized blouse as an example for explanation
step 1.1 design method for determining first-level template
The embodiment is based on Japanese eighth generation culture type female clothes prototypes, and is improved by combining the graphics principle to obtain a first-level template. The first-level template is a template for an individual, and the existing dress prototype cannot be directly used, because the existing dress prototype seeks to cover the body shape of a target group as much as possible and cannot sufficiently reflect the body characteristics.
The human body surface is developed by utilizing the graphic principle, and the human body characteristics and the human body shape are fully reflected by the corresponding relation of the net body size of the human body, the characteristic points and the reference lines by combining the shape of the Japanese eighth generation cultural type prototype. Since the difference of human body is mainly reflected in the trunk of human body, only the upper body template of human body is studied here.
The first-level sample plate also needs to consider the breathing loose quantity required by human physiology, the general chest circumference loose quantity is 4-6cm, and also considers that the waist-saving method is about 2cm in the gross shrinkage of the chest circumference loose quantity according to the Japanese new culture prototype, so the loose quantity is designed to be 6cm, and the basic physiological requirements of the human body are met. The waist circumference bulk is designed to be 2 cm. In the automatic design system of the clothing pattern based on the method, the looseness such as the chest circumference looseness, the waist circumference looseness and the like can be set as variables for interactive input, and proper looseness values are input according to the personalized dressing requirements of different consumers.
Graphical principles the principle of unfolding the body surface is shown in figure 1 and the bulk distribution of the female upper body primary template is shown in figure 2.
Step 1.1.1 first-level sample plate basic line design method
The length of the human body (chest circumference plus chest circumference relaxation amount)/2' is taken as the width of the first-level sample plate, and the front and rear sample plate lengths of the first-level sample plate are determined according to the front waist length and the rear waist length of the human body; the positions of the front neck point and the back neck point of the sample plate are determined by the front-middle length and the back length; determining the positions of front and rear lateral neck points of the sample plate according to the front neck width and the rear neck width; determining the position of a chest circumference line of the sample plate according to the distance from the front neck point to the chest circumference datum line; determining the position of the side suture of the sample plate by 'chest circumference/2 + 45% (chest circumference relaxation amount/2)'; and then the positions of the chest width line and the back width line are respectively determined by the length of the chest width/2 + 30% (chest circumference relaxation amount/2) and the back width/2 + 40% (chest circumference relaxation amount/2) of the human body. The finished first order template baseline is shown in fig. 3, where FNP point represents the anterior mid-neck, BNP represents the posterior mid-neck, SNP point represents the lateral mid-neck, Front represents the Front panel of the template, and Back represents the Back panel of the template.
Step 1.1.2 design method of first-level template chest dart angle
The female breast is approximately regarded as a cone, and when the cone is unfolded into a two-dimensional plane paper pattern, the cone can be approximately regarded as a fan. Fig. 4 is a developed plan view of the cone and cone of the chest, wherein the dart point is located at the chest convex point O, the dart angle is α, h is the thickness of the chest, and r is the radius of the bottom circle of the cone of the chest.
The formula for calculating the angle of chest dart: α ═ 180X/π L', X ═ X (X)1-X2)/2
Wherein X1、X2The lengths of the anterior chest circumferential line and the anterior breast root circumferential line are respectively, and L' is the length of the thoracic province path, namely the length of the body surface curve between the breast peak point and the anterior axillary point. The chest dart can be drawn according to the chest dart angle and the chest dart path length. The location of the chest point is determined by the milk separation.
Step 1.1.3 first-level sample plate shoulder line and shoulder province design method
The design of the first-level sample plate shoulder line is determined by adopting angles along with the Japanese eighth-generation prototype, and the length of the shoulder line is determined by the length of the shoulder width of a human body. Because the shoulder blade part of the female body protrudes less greatly, the influence on the clothes fitting is not great, the formula for calculating the shoulder province of the Japanese eighth generation culture type prototype is continuously used, and the formula is as follows: the size of the shoulder area is 32-0.8cm per bust.
Step 1.1.4 first-level sample plate waist province design method
The design method of the Japanese eighth generation prototype is adopted in the first-level template waist province design, namely: the distribution proportion of the waist province is 14%, 15%, 11%, 35%, 18% and 7% from the front midline to the rear midline in sequence. The waist provinces are respectively arranged at the following positions: the lower part of the chest point, the front arm hole wide line is moved forward by 1.5cm, the side suture line and the back arm hole wide line are moved backward by 1.0cm, the back dart vertical line is shifted to the back midline by 0.5cm, and the back central line.
Step 1.2 determining data required by the primary template
According to step 1.1, the body data required by the primary template is shown in Table 1, and the body data in this example is from a young female with a normal body height of 160 cm.
TABLE 1 human body data sheet required by first-level template
Step 1.3 determining a first order template
The completed primary template is drawn as in fig. 5.
step 2.1, determining custom-made clothing style types
In this embodiment, the design of a personalized blouse is taken as an example, and the clothing category of the customized clothing is the blouse.
Step 2.2, investigating the style of the clothes of the style type, and analyzing the common style;
step 2.2.1, investigate the shirt style and classify the style elements
The belonged type of the present embodiment is a blouse, the styles of the blouses on the market are classified, the style elements of the blouse are a coat body, a collar, a lower hem, a front fly and sleeves, and the details of classifying the style elements of the blouse are shown in fig. 6.
Step 2.2.2, the principle of common style is definitely analyzed
Through the classification of the styles of blouse, the commonalities in style changes are analyzed, mainly from the following aspects:
1) the common style should contain all the components of the style category;
2) the common style has universal applicability and can be changed in any style;
3) the common style clothes body is attached to the human body as much as possible.
Step 2.2.3, Blouse commonality style analysis
(1) A clothes body: the body of the blouse can be roughly divided into a dart, a dividing line, a dart and a dividing line, and the dividing line can be divided into a decorative dividing line and a functional dividing line, the decorative dividing line can be set freely according to the needs of the designer, and the functional dividing line is usually formed by sewing darts. Therefore, the clothes body floating allowance is collected in a way of saving roads, and the clothes body is designed to have the function of saving roads and has universal applicability.
(2) A collar: the collars of the blouse have a lot of variability, and can be roughly divided into a collar-free collar, a stand-up collar, a flat collar, a lapel collar and a lapel collar, and it is difficult to summarize a common style suitable for all collar types, so the stand-up collar in the lapels commonly used in the blouse is adopted as the common style of the collars of the blouse.
(3) Lower swinging: the lower hem of the blouse can be roughly divided into a straight lower hem, a round lower hem and an irregular lower hem, and the round lower hem and the irregular lower hem can be designed on the basis of the straight lower hem, so that the common lower hem is selected as the straight lower hem.
(4) A front fly: the front fly of the blouse can be divided into a front fly and a back fly which can be mutually changed, and any one of the front fly and the back fly can be selected as the front fly.
(5) Sleeve: the sleeves of a blouse can be divided into round sleeves, continuous sleeves, split sleeves and variable structures. The split sleeves and the changing structure can be obtained by changing the figures of the round sleeves and the continuous sleeves, the round sleeves are more common in the design of the shirt, and the common style sleeves are more common when being set as the round sleeves.
Step 2.2.4, determining the common style of the blouse; based on the above analysis, the example uses a lapel-dart-body-one-piece round-sleeve-straight-hem-open-top fly blouse as a common style of blouse. The pattern diagrams are shown in 7(a) and (b).
Step 2.3, designing the specification of the common style of the blouse; the chest circumference release amount of the fit blouse is 6-10cm, and the second-level sample plate should fit the human body as much as possible, so that the chest circumference release amount is designed to be 8cm (2 cm is removed in consideration of waist shrinkage), and the waist circumference is designed to be 2 cm. The turn-up collar adopts a standard collar, the length and the angle trend of the collar tip of the standard collar are smooth, the length of the collar tip is 8.5-9.5cm, the included angle between the left collar tip and the right collar tip is 75-90 degrees, and the height of the collar base is 3.5-4 cm. The length of the collar tip is 8.5cm, and the height of the collar base is 3.5 cm. The length of the shirt can be designed according to needs, the length of the shirt is designed on the hip line, and therefore the personalized design of subsequent clothes is facilitated, the length of the shirt is designed to be the back length plus the hip height, and the hip height of a human body is measured to be 18 cm. The hip circumference looseness is designed to be 2cm, and the hip circumference of a human body is measured to be 90 cm. The waist province is designed as a first-level template. The secondary prototype specification was designed as in table 2.
TABLE 2 body size and Specification design for two-stage template
Step 2.5.1 body type modification of Secondary template
Thus, for example, for designing clothing for a normal body, the step of not having the deficiency of the human body can be ignored. If the human body has defects and needs to be modified, corresponding template correction is carried out on the secondary template.
Taking the fat body as an example, in order to modify the body shape, a part of the side seam of the front part of the sample plate can be cut off in a proper amount, and the part is added to the side seam of the rear part of the sample plate, so that the side seam of the garment is close to the front center line, and the garment can visually feel a little slim, thereby achieving the purpose of modifying the body shape.
Step 2.5.2 two-stage template design
(1) Two-stage template body design
1) Preparing a first-level template as shown in fig. 8(a) and (b);
2) the variable design of the clothes length: the original clothes length is prolonged from H1 to the hip line, and the clothes length of the secondary sample plate is designed on the hip line;
3) the design of the change of the bust: the chest circumference of the second sample plate is more than 2cm, namely 1cm, the chest circumference is more than that of the first sample plate, the distribution of the bulk of the front piece and the back piece is combined with the distribution of the bulk of the figure 2 because of the human activity, the bulk ratio of the front piece to the back piece is designed to be 2:3, so the chest circumference of the front piece of the second sample plate is added with 0.4cm on the basis of the first sample plate, and the chest circumference of the front piece of the back piece of the second sample plate is added with 0.6cm on the basis of the first sample plate, as shown in.
4) The elimination design of the floating allowance of the clothes body is as follows: the clothes floating allowance of the second-level sample plate is eliminated in a way of saving lane, and because the second-level sample plate should be attached to a human body as much as possible, the chest-saving design method and the shoulder-saving design method of the first-level sample plate are adopted in the chest-saving design and the shoulder-saving design of the second-level sample plate. The setting of the lumbar province position of the second-level sample plate is cancelled on the back central line, and the setting of the lumbar province position of the first-level sample plate is used for the rest edges, namely the chest point lower part, the front arm hole wide line are moved forward by 1.5cm, the side suture line and the back arm hole wide line are moved backward by 1.0cm, and the back province vertical line is moved backward by 0.5 cm; and 7% of the chest waist difference at the rear center line is distributed to the front piece of the secondary sample plate, and the distribution proportion of the waist of the secondary sample plate is 18%, 11%, 35% and 18% from the front center line to the rear center line in sequence. The hip circumference of the second-level template is equal to the chest circumference, the waist province is designed to be willow-leaf-shaped, and the other province sharp point is designed on the hip circumference line, so that the waist of the garment is clamped to fit the human body as much as possible, as shown in fig. 9(a) and (b).
5) Designing a neckline: the secondary sample plate should be attached to the human body as much as possible, so the neckline of the primary sample plate is used along the neckline of the secondary sample plate.
6) Designing a body fly: the collar arc line is from FNP along arc line inwards to get 1.5cm wide of the front of a garment and make the perpendicular line of hip line, the collar arc line is from FNP along arc line outwards to get 1.5cm wide of the front of a garment and make the perpendicular line of hip line, and the two perpendicular lines, collar arc line and hip line constitute the front of a garment, as shown in figures 9(a), (b).
7) Designing button positions of the clothes body: the second grade model designed in this embodiment has 6 buttons, the collar is set to 1, the body is set to 5, the button is set on the front center line, the first button is set from FNP to 5cm downward along the front center, and the other 4 buttons are set at intervals of L5 in sequence, as shown in fig. 9 (a).
8) And (3) drawing the structural lines of the second-level template clothes body, and finishing the structural design of the front and rear garment pieces of the second-level template as shown in (a) and (b) of fig. 9.
(2) Secondary template collar design process
1) Designing a collar seat: and measuring the lengths of front and rear neckline arcs of the secondary sample plate, determining the width of the neckline by the sum of the lengths of the front and rear neckline arcs, and determining the height of the neckline by the height L6 of the neckline. The front collar needs to be raised to ensure that the collar seat is attached to the neck of a human body, the raising amount is designed to be 1.5cm, the front collar is raised by 1.5cm upwards from the length of an arc line of a rear collar opening to a point A shown in figure 10, and an arc line outside the collar seat is trimmed; taking the point A as a vertical line AB of an outer arc line of the collar seat, wherein the AB length is L6-0.5cm, and trimming the inner arc line of the collar seat; rounded flaps are formed by extending L4 outward from the bow camber line, as shown in fig. 10.
2) Design of the collar surface: making a vertical line BC from the cross point B to the center line, wherein the vertical line is a lower flat line of the collar surface; from the point C, the lodging amount is 2cm vertically upwards to the point D, the BD is connected and is corrected to be a small arc line, namely a collar bottom arc line of the collar surface, and the length of the collar bottom arc line of the collar surface is equal to that of a collar inner arc line of a collar seat, as shown in figure 10; the height of the collar is determined by the width L7 of the collar, the collar corner of the collar is designed and drawn according to the length L8 of the collar tip, and the camber line of the collar is drawn as shown in figure 10.
(3) Two-stage template sleeve design process
1) The front and rear armholes of the body template are copied, the front armhole province is closed, and the arc lines of the front and rear armholes are drawn, as shown in figure 11. The front armhole arc length is measured to be front AH, and the rear armhole arc length is rear AH.
2) Determining the height of the sleeve cap, namely, extending the side seam upwards to form a sleeve cap line, and determining the height of the sleeve cap on the line, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the height from the 1/2 position of the front and rear cusp height to the bust line was measured as h, and its 5/6 was taken as the sleeve height, as shown in fig. 11.
3) Determining the sleeve fertilizer: starting from the sleeve vertex, the anterior chest line is diagonal to the anterior AH and the posterior chest line is diagonal to the posterior AH +1cm, as shown in figure 12.
4) Drawing armhole arcs: taking the length of front AH/4 downwards along the top point of the sleeve on the front sleeve oblique line, taking the position point as the vertical line of the sleeve, and taking the length of 1.8 cm; taking the length of front AH/4 downwards along the top point of the sleeve on the back sleeve oblique line, taking the point position as the vertical line of the sleeve, and taking the length of 1.9 cm; drawing a horizontal line at 1/3h, obtaining two points with a front sleeve oblique line and a rear sleeve oblique line, taking 1cm upwards on the front sleeve oblique line along the intersection point of the front sleeve oblique line to obtain a front sleeve arc turning position, and taking 1cm downwards on the rear sleeve oblique line along the intersection point of the rear sleeve oblique line to obtain a front sleeve arc turning position; drawing a circle and a smooth posterior armhole line through the vertex of the sleeve cap, the two new positioning points, the two turning positioning points and the bottom of the sleeve cap, as shown in figure 13.
5) Drawing the sleeve body: from the vertex of the sleeve cap to the bottom of the sleeve, vertically downwards from L9, from the point to a horizontal line with the length of L10/2-1cm, from the point to the left, from the point to a horizontal line with the length of L10/2+1cm, completing the drawing of the sleeve; the end point of the cuff is connected with the bottom of the sleeve cap to complete the drawing of the sleeve body, the fixed point of the sleeve cap is vertically downward L9/2+2.5cm as a horizontal line, namely a sleeve elbow line, thereby completing the template drawing of the whole sleeve, as shown in fig. 13.
Step 3, designing the customized personalized clothing template according to the second-level template, namely a third-level template
Step 3.1, determining the personalized customized style drawing of the blouse
Determining the style of the personalized customized blouse: round-angle stand-up collar-armpit province, back fold, jacket body-one piece shirted round sleeve-straight lower hem-Ming's front fly blouse, as shown in fig. 14(a), (b).
Step 3.2, determining the material configuration, the fabric thickness, the fabric performance, the garment process and the function of the style garment; the relevant settings of the customization style are as follows: material preparation: 1. adopting cotton fabric; 2. the material performance is as follows: the fabric is not elastic; 3. fabric thickness: the thickness is conventional; 4. the clothing process and function are as follows: no special process and function; the three-level pattern should be modified in structure according to the material configuration, fabric thickness, fabric properties, garment process and function of the custom-made garment, for example, if the fabric is elastic, the amount of slack in the garment can be reduced appropriately.
Step 3.3 specification design of personalized Blouse the specification design of the personalized Blouse is shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3 personalized Blouse Specification design
| Details of | Data variables | Size (unit: cm) |
| Clothes hanger | L3’ | 60 |
| Chest circumference (B + loose amount ═ 84+10) | B* | 94 |
| Hip circumference (H + loose amount ═ 90+4) | H* | 94 |
| Width of front fly | L4’ | 2 |
| Button spacing | L5’ | 8.5 |
| Height of collar | L6’ | 3.5 |
| High collar | L7’ | 6 |
| Long collar tip | L8’ | 9.5 |
| Length of sleeve | L9’ | 56 |
| Cuff | L10’ | 21 |
Step 3.4 three-level template design
(1) Three-level template body design
1) Preparing a sample plate of the secondary sample plate as shown by the gray lines in FIGS. 15(a), (b);
2) the variable design of the clothes length: the original clothes length is prolonged by 4cm to the bottom line of the third-level sample plate, so that the clothes length of the third-level sample plate is 60cm, as shown in figure 15.
3) The variation design of the chest circumference and the hip circumference is as follows: the chest circumference looseness of the third-level sample plate is 2cm more than that of the second-level sample plate, namely 1cm, the third-level sample plate is looser, so that the looseness can be evenly distributed to front and rear cut pieces, and 0.5cm is additionally arranged on the chest circumference of the second-level sample plate of each third-level sample plate, as shown in fig. 15(a) and (b); since the chest circumference and hip circumference of the three-level template are equal in length, no additional hip circumference is required, as shown in fig. 15(a) and (b).
4) The elimination design of the floating allowance of the clothes body is as follows: the thoracic province is merged and transferred to the axillary province 6cm below the axillary; making a vertical line of a rear midline at the end point of the shoulder province, wherein the vertical line is the rear piece brooding position of the three-level sample plate, transferring 1/2 of the shoulder province to the brooding position, and eliminating by utilizing brooding; the remainders 1/2 of the shoulder area are removed by sewing after the shoulder line is trimmed. As shown in fig. 16(a) and (b).
5) Designing a neckline: the front neckline of the third sample plate descends 2cm from the front center line on the basis of the second sample plate, the shoulder line is expanded by 0.5cm, and the front neckline is trimmed, as shown in fig. 16 (a); the back center line of the back piece neckline of the third sample plate descends by 0.3cm on the basis of the second sample plate, the shoulder line is expanded by 0.5cm, and the back neckline is trimmed, as shown in fig. 16 (b).
6) Designing a body fly: the collar arc line is from FNP along the arc line inwards to get the width of the front of a garment 2cm and make the perpendicular line of tertiary model base line, the collar arc line is from FNP along the arc line outwards to get the width of the front of a garment 2cm and make the perpendicular line of base line, two perpendicular lines and collar arc line, base line constitute the front of a garment.
7) Designing button positions of the clothes body: the three-level sample plate designed by the embodiment has 6 buttons, the collar is arranged at 1, the clothes body is arranged at 5 buttons, the button positions are arranged on the front central line, the first button positions are arranged from the FNP position along the front center by 5cm downwards, and the other 4 button positions are arranged at intervals of L5'.
Designing the lower hem of the clothes body: the lower hem of the third-level sample plate is designed into a circular hem, the starting point of the circular hem is designed on the hip circumference line, namely the bottom line of the second-level sample plate, and the lower hem arc line is drawn.
8) And drawing the structural lines of the garment body of the second-level template, and finishing the structural design of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece of the second-level template as shown in the figure.
(2) Three-level template collar design
1) Designing a collar seat: the front and rear neckline arc lengths of the three-level sample plate are measured, the sum of the front and rear neckline arc lengths determines the width of a neckline seat, and the height of the neckline seat is determined by the height L6' of the neckline seat. The front collar needs to be raised to ensure that the collar seat is attached to the neck of a human body, the raising amount is designed to be 1.5cm, the front collar is raised by 1.5cm upwards from the length of an arc line of a rear collar opening to a point A shown in figure 17, and an arc line outside the collar seat is trimmed; the point A is taken as a vertical line AB of the collar outer arc line of the collar seat, the AB length is L6', and the collar inner arc line of the collar seat is trimmed; the rounded flaps are formed by extending the leading camber line outward at L4', as shown in fig. 17.
2) Design of the collar surface: making a vertical line BC from the cross point B to the center line, wherein the vertical line is a lower flat line of the collar surface; from the point C, the lodging amount is 2cm vertically upwards to the point D, the BD is connected and is corrected to be a small arc line, namely a collar bottom arc line of the collar surface, and the length of the collar bottom arc line of the collar surface is equal to that of a collar inner arc line of a collar seat, as shown in figure 17; determining the height of the collar by the collar width L7 ', designing and drawing the collar corners of the collar according to the length L8' of the collar tip, making the outer arc line of the collar, and then trimming the round corners according to the desired effect to complete the design of the collar, as shown in FIG. 17.
(3) Three-level template sleeve design
1) Copy the front and back armholes of the body template, close the front armhole, draw the front and back armhole arc lines, as shown by the gray line in fig. 18. The front armhole arc length is measured to be front AH, and the rear armhole arc length is rear AH.
2) Determining the height of the sleeve cap, namely, extending the side seam upwards to form a sleeve cap line, and determining the height of the sleeve cap on the line, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the height from the 1/2 position of the front and rear cusp height to the bust line was measured as h, and its 5/6 was taken as the sleeve height, as shown in fig. 18.
3) Determining the sleeve fertilizer: starting from the sleeve vertex, the anterior chest line is sloped at front AH and the posterior chest line is sloped at back AH +1cm, as shown in figure 18.
4) Drawing armhole arcs: taking the length of front AH/4 downwards along the top point of the sleeve on the front sleeve oblique line, taking the position point as the vertical line of the sleeve, and taking the length of 1.5 cm; taking the length of front AH/4 downwards along the top point of the sleeve on the back sleeve oblique line, taking the point position as the vertical line of the sleeve, and taking the length of 1.6 cm; drawing a horizontal line at 1/3h, obtaining two points with a front sleeve oblique line and a rear sleeve oblique line, taking 1cm upwards on the front sleeve oblique line along the intersection point of the front sleeve oblique line to obtain a front sleeve arc turning position, and taking 1cm downwards on the rear sleeve oblique line along the intersection point of the rear sleeve oblique line to obtain a front sleeve arc turning position; drawing a circle and a smooth posterior armhole line through the vertex of the sleeve cap, the two new positioning points, the two turning position points and the bottom of the sleeve cap. As shown in fig. 18.
5) Drawing the sleeve body: from the vertex of the sleeve to the bottom of the sleeve, L9 'is vertically downward, the point is used as the bottom line of the sleeve, the end point of the sleeve is used as the bottom line of the sleeve, the perpendicular line of the bottom line of the sleeve is crossed with the bottom line of the sleeve at the point P, Q, the structure of the sleeve is drawn, and the length of the PQ is drawn to the length of L10' during the manufacturing. As shown in fig. 19.
Claims (5)
1. A method for designing a template grading system for personalized customization, comprising: the method specifically comprises the following steps:
step 1, designing a primary template containing human body characteristics;
step 2, determining the style type of the garment to be customized, and designing a secondary sample plate containing style type commonality according to the primary sample plate;
and 3, designing the customized personalized clothing template according to the second-level template, namely a third-level template.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the design method is based on a customized grading system for patterns of clothing, and comprises: during the design of the first-level template basic line in the step 1, the method specifically comprises the following steps:
step a), determining the width of a first-level sample plate and the lengths of the front sample plate and the rear sample plate of the first-level sample plate;
b), determining the positions of a front neck point and a back neck point of the sample plate according to the front-middle length and the back length;
step c), determining the positions of front and rear neck points of the sample plate according to the front neck width and the rear neck width;
step d), determining the position of the chest circumference line of the sample plate according to the distance from the front neck point to the chest circumference reference line;
step e), determining the position of a sample plate side suture line by 2+ 45% of the chest circumference a, wherein a is half of the releasing amount of the chest circumference;
and f), respectively determining the positions of the chest width line and the back width line according to the lengths of the chest width/2 + 30% a and the back width/2 + 40% a of the human body.
3. The method of claim 2, wherein the design method is based on a customized grading system for patterns of clothing, and comprises: in the step a), the length of the human body (chest circumference plus chest circumference relaxation amount)/2 is taken as the width of the primary sample plate, and the front and rear sample plate lengths of the primary sample plate are determined according to the front waist length and the rear waist length of the human body.
4. The method of claim 1, wherein the design method is based on a customized grading system for patterns of clothing, and comprises: when the secondary sample plate is designed in the step 2, the method for determining the height of the sleeve top comprises the following steps: the height from 1/2 points of the front and back shoulder points to the chest line is measured as h, and 5/6 of h is taken as the height of the sleeve hill.
5. The method of claim 1, wherein the design method is based on a customized grading system for patterns of clothing, and comprises: in the step 3, when the three-level sample plate is designed, the method for eliminating the floating allowance of the clothes body comprises the following steps: the chest province is merged and transferred to the underarm province under the armpit; making a vertical line of a rear midline at the end point of the shoulder province, wherein the vertical line is the rear piece brooding position of the three-level sample plate, transferring 1/2 of the shoulder province to the brooding position, and eliminating by utilizing brooding; the remainders 1/2 of the shoulder area are removed by sewing after the shoulder line is trimmed.
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