CN112107061B - A method for designing a clothing sample grading system for personalized customization - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization, which specifically includes the following steps: Step 1, design a first-level model containing human body characteristics; Step 2, determine the category of clothing styles to be customized, and based on the first-level model Design a second-level model that contains common features of the style category; step 3, design a personalized clothing sample that needs to be customized based on the second-level model, that is, a third-level model. The invention can realize rapid response to personalized clothing customization, improve the flexibility and fit of personalized clothing customization, reduce the production cycle of personalized customization, and is conducive to the digitization of personalized clothing customization.

Description

A method for designing a clothing sample grading system for personalized customization

Technical field

The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing design and engineering, and relates to a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization.

Background technique

With the improvement of people's living standards, people not only require clothing to be comfortable and beautiful, but also require clothing to be more fitting and personalized. At present, the production model of clothing enterprises is gradually shifting from large-scale batch production to rapid response personalized customization. In order to meet the diverse needs of clothing products, research on personalized clothing sample generation technology has become a hot spot and trend in the industry. However, personalized clothing The generation of clothing patterns during the customization process relies heavily on pattern makers, and the efficiency and accuracy are low.

At present, there are mainly the following methods to generate personalized clothing templates: ① Use the quick combination of style parts in the style part library to obtain personalized templates; ② Based on a large amount of human body data, subdivide the human body shape and set different substrates for different body types. Generate fitting templates through grading; ③ Parametric design templates; ④ Three-dimensional garments are expanded to form two-dimensional patterns. However, due to the different detailed shapes of the human body, it is often necessary for the pattern maker to readjust the template. It can be seen that the current personalized clothing models are not really designed according to the individual human body characteristics, and the fit of the clothing and the generation efficiency of the models are not high enough. And the current personalized customization of clothing is based on the arrangement and combination of existing clothing style components provided by the system, without generating new style elements. Clothing personalization templates lack flexibility.

In response to the demand for multiple varieties, small batches, and short cycles in the clothing market, personalized sample design requires a more effective method to improve the flexibility and fit of sample design to meet the individual needs of consumers.

Contents of the invention

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for designing a clothing sample grading system for personalized customization, which method can realize rapid response to personalized clothing customization, improve the flexibility and fit of personalized clothing customization, and reduce the number of personalized customizations. The production cycle is conducive to the digitalization of personalized customization of clothing.

The technical solution adopted by the present invention is a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization, which specifically includes the following steps:

Step 1: Design a first-level template containing human body characteristics;

Step 2: Determine the clothing style category to be customized, and design a second-level model based on the first-level model that contains common features of the style category;

Step 3: Design the personalized clothing model to be customized based on the second-level model, which is the third-level model.

The present invention is also characterized in that,

When designing the basic line of the first-level model in step 1, the specific steps include the following:

Step a), determine the width of the first-level sample and the length of the front and rear samples of the first-level sample;

Step b), determine the positions of the front and back neck points of the model based on the middle front length and back length;

Step c), determine the positions of the front and rear neck points of the model based on the width of the front collar and the width of the back collar;

Step d), determine the position of the model bust line based on the distance from the front neck point to the bust baseline;

Step e), front bust/2+45%*a, determine the side suture position of the model, where a is half of the relaxed amount of the bust;

Step f), determine the positions of the chest width line and back width line respectively based on the lengths of the human chest width/2+30%*a and back width/2+40%*a.

In step a), the length of the human body (chest girth + bust relaxation amount)/2 is used as the width of the first-level model, and the front and rear lengths of the first-level model are determined based on the front and back waist lengths of the human body.

When designing the secondary model in step 2, the method for determining the sleeve height is as follows: measure the height from 1/2 of the height of the front and rear shoulder points to the bust line as h, and take 5/6 of h as the sleeve height.

In step 3, when designing the third-level model, the method to eliminate the floating excess of the garment body is: merge the chest dart and transfer it to the armpit dart; draw a vertical line of the back center line at the end of the shoulder dart, which is the vertical line of the three-level pattern. At the yoke position of the back piece of the grade pattern, transfer 1/2 of the shoulder dart to the yoke, and use the yoke to eliminate it; smooth the back shoulder line, and use sewing technology to eliminate the remaining 1/2 of the shoulder dart.

The beneficial effect of the present invention is that the present invention decomposes a personalized clothing pattern into three steps to complete, that is, using the method of "first-level model→second-level model→third-level model" to gradually complete the design of the personalized clothing pattern. , through the first-level model to ensure that personalized clothing can fully reflect human body characteristics, through the second-level model to ensure the basic type of personalized clothing, and finally form a personalized clothing model with high fit. The originally chaotic personalized model design is formed into a systematic design process, and the generated first-level and second-level models can be stored and used as prototypes. This method not only ensures the efficiency and fit of personalized clothing model generation, but also It reduces the repetitive work of pattern makers and improves the flexibility of personalized pattern design. The strong logic of systematic design also provides an idea for the digitization of personalized clothing custom pattern design.

Description of drawings

Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the human body surface developed using graphics principles;

Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the looseness distribution of the first-level model of the female upper body;

Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the first-level model basic line after completion in the method of designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 4 is a schematic structural diagram of a chest cone and a cone expansion surface in a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 5 is a schematic structural diagram of a first-level model in a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 6 is a classification diagram of women's shirt styles in the method of designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 7 (a) and (b) are diagrams of common styles of women's shirts in the method of designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 8 (a) and (b) are structural diagrams of changes in the length and bust size of the secondary model in the present invention's method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization;

Figure 9 (a) and (b) are structural diagrams of the secondary sample body in the present invention's method for designing a clothing sample grading system for personalized customization;

Figure 10 is a structural diagram of a secondary model collar in a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 11 is a schematic diagram of determining the sleeve height in a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 12 is a schematic diagram of the determination of sleeve fat in the method of designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 13 is a structural diagram of a secondary sample sleeve in a method for designing a clothing sample grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 14 (a) and (b) are diagrams of personalized women's shirt styles in the present invention's method of designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization;

Figure 15 (a) and (b) are structural diagrams of changes in clothing length and bust size of three-level models in the present invention's method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization;

Figure 16 (a) and (b) are structural diagrams of three-level sample garment bodies in the present invention's method for designing a clothing sample grading system for personalized customization;

Figure 17 is a structural diagram of a three-level model collar in a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 18 is a schematic diagram for determining the sleeve height, sleeve fat, and armhole arc of the three-level model in a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention;

Figure 19 is a structural diagram of three-level sample sleeves in a method for designing a clothing sample grading system for personalized customization according to the present invention.

Detailed ways

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings and specific embodiments.

The present invention is completed by decomposing the personalized model into a process of "first-level model → second-level model → third-level model", decomposing the experience of personalized model design into the process, simplifying complex problems and realizing clothing individuality Systematic design of professional models.

The present invention is a method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization. The specific process is as follows:

Step 1. Design a first-level template containing human body features:

To complete the design of the first-level model, the human body shape characteristics, human body structure and shape, and respiratory tract should be fully taken into consideration. Methods to complete the first-level prototype design can be selected according to the actual situation, such as: through three-dimensional cutting, converting the three-dimensional human body into a two-dimensional plane, directly unfolding the human body to form a plane based on the principles of graphics, etc.

Step 2. Determine the clothing style category to be customized, and design a second-level model based on the first-level sample that contains common features of the style categories:

To determine the secondary model, you should first determine the clothing category to which the customized clothing belongs, fully research the clothing category, and analyze the common styles of the clothing category. The style should include all the constituent elements of the clothing category and be universally applicable. Arbitrarily change the style and try to fit the human body as much as possible; then observe whether there are deficiencies in the physical characteristics of the customer of the customized clothing, such as high and low shoulders; finally, modify the deficiencies of the human body based on the first-level model, and draw a sample of a common style to complete the second level. Level sample design.

Step 3. Design the personalized clothing sample that needs to be customized based on the second-level model, that is, the third-level model;

To determine the third-level model, you should first determine the customized personalized clothing style and material configuration, clothing function, material performance, clothing technology, fabric thickness and other factors, and then complete the design of the third-level model based on the second-level model. .

Example: Taking the design of a personalized blouse as an example to illustrate

Step 1. Design a first-level template containing human body features:

Step 1.1 Determine the first-level template design method

This embodiment is based on the Japanese eighth-generation cultural women's clothing prototype and is improved by combining graphics principles to obtain a first-level model. The first-level model is a personal model and cannot directly use existing clothing prototypes because the existing clothing prototypes seek to cover the human body shape of the target group as much as possible and cannot fully reflect the human body characteristics.

The principles of graphics are used to unfold the human body surface, combined with the form of Japanese eighth-generation cultural prototypes, and the characteristics and shape of the human body are fully reflected through the net size of the human body and the corresponding relationship between feature points and baselines. And because the differences of the human body are mainly reflected in the human trunk, only the upper body model of the human body is studied here.

The first-level model also needs to consider the amount of breathing relaxation necessary for human physiology. Generally, the amount of relaxation of the bust is 4-6cm. Also, considering the Japanese new culture prototype waist dart method, the waist dart should be about 2cm less than the amount of relaxation of the bust, so here The looseness is designed to be 6cm to meet the basic physiological needs of the human body. The waist looseness is designed to be 2cm. In the clothing sample automatic design system based on this method, the bust looseness, waist looseness and other looseness can be set as interactive input variables, and appropriate looseness values can be input according to the personalized dressing needs of different consumers.

The graphic principle of unfolding the human body surface is shown in Figure 1, and the looseness distribution of the first-level model of the female upper body is shown in Figure 2.

Step 1.1.1 First-level model basic line design method

The length of the human body "(bust circumference + bust relaxation amount)/2" is used as the width of the first-level model. The front and rear lengths of the first-level model are determined based on the front and back waist lengths of the human body. The length of the front and middle length and the length of the back are determined Determine the position of the front and back neck points of the model; determine the position of the front and rear neck points of the model from the width of the front collar and the width of the back collar; determine the position of the model's bust line from the distance from the front neck point to the bust baseline; determine the position of the model's bust line based on "front bust/2+ 45% (bust relaxation amount/2)" to determine the side suture position of the model; then use the human chest width/2+30% (bust relaxation amount/2) and back width/2+40% (bust relaxation amount/2) The length determines the position of the chest width line and back width line respectively. The completed baseline line of the first-level model is shown in Figure 3. In the figure, the FNP point represents the midpoint of the front neck, the BNP point represents the midpoint of the back neck, the SNP point represents the side neck point, Front represents the front piece of the model, and Back represents the back piece of the model.

Step 1.1.2 Design method of chest dart of first-level model

Women's breasts can be approximately viewed as a cone. When the cone is expanded into a two-dimensional plane pattern, it can be approximately viewed as a fan shape. Figure 4 is a plan view of the chest cone and the cone expansion. In the figure, the dart point is located at the chest convex point O, the dart angle is α, h is the thickness of the chest, and r is the radius of the bottom circle of the chest cone.

The formula for calculating bust dart:

Where X ₁ and X ₂ are the lengths of the front bust line and the front breast root line respectively, It is the length of the breast dart, that is, the length of the body surface curve between the breast peak point and the front axillary point. The bust dart can be drawn according to the bust dart angle and bust dart length. The position of the bust point is determined by the distance between the breasts.

Step 1.1.3 First-level sample shoulder line and shoulder dart design method

The shoulder line design of the first-level model is determined by the angle determined by Japan's eighth-generation prototype, and the length of the shoulder line is determined by the length of the human body's shoulder width. Since the shoulder blades of women are not very protruding and have little impact on the fit of clothing, the shoulder dart calculation formula of Japan's eighth-generation cultural prototype is used here. The calculation formula is: shoulder dart = bust/32-0.8cm.

Step 1.1.4 First-level sample waist dart design method

The waist dart design of the first-level model follows the design method of Japan's eighth-generation prototype, that is, the distribution ratio of the waist dart from the front center line to the rear center line is 14%, 15%, 11%, 35%, 18%, and 7%. The positions of the waist darts are: below the bust point, the front sleeve wide line moves forward 1.5cm, the side seam line, the rear sleeve wide line moves back 1.0cm, the vertical line of the back dart shifts 0.5cm to the rear midline, and the back Centerline.

Step 1.2 Determine the data required for the first-level model

According to step 1.1, the human body data required for the first-level model are as shown in Table 1. The human body data in this embodiment come from a young woman with a normal body height of 160cm.

Table 1 Human body data table required for first-level samples

serial number Data name data variable Data (unit: cm) 1 Chest width AF 32 2 Back width AB 34 4 former middle chief CFL 36 5 Back long CBL 38 6 Front waist length C1 43 7 Long back waist C2 40.5 8 Front collar width NW 7 9 Wide back collar BNW 7.2 10 Distance from front neck point to bust line C3 18 11 chest circumference B 84 12 Front bust FB 44 14 fore breast circumference B1 36 13 Distance from front axillary point to bust line C4 6 15 Breast distance L1 16 16 The length of the body surface curve between the breast point and the front axillary point C5 11 20 shoulder width SW 12 twenty one scapular point distance L2 18 twenty two high scapular point C6 10 twenty three waistline W 68

Step 1.3 Determine the first-level model

The completed first-level template is shown in Figure 5.

Step 2. Determine the clothing style category to be customized, and design a second-level model based on the first-level sample that contains common features of the style categories:

Step 2.1, determine the customized clothing style category

This embodiment takes the design of personalized blouses as an example, and the clothing category of customized clothing is blouses.

Step 2.2, investigate the clothing styles of this style category and analyze common styles;

Step 2.2.1, investigate women’s shirt styles and classify style elements

The category of this embodiment is women's shirts. The main styles of women's shirts on the market are classified. The style elements of women's shirts are the body, collar, hem, placket and sleeves. The details of the classification of the style elements of women's shirts are shown in Figure 6 .

Step 2.2.2, clearly analyze the common style principles

Through the classification of women's shirt styles, the commonalities in style changes are analyzed, mainly considering the following aspects:

1) A common style should contain all the constituent elements of the style category;

2) Common styles should have universal applicability and can be made into any style changes;

3) The body of a common style garment fits the human body as much as possible.

Step 2.2.3, analysis of common styles of women’s shirts

(1) Body: The body of women's shirts can be roughly divided into those with darts, with dividing lines, with darts and dividing lines, without darts and dividing lines, and the dividing lines can be divided into decorative dividing lines and functional dividing lines. , the decorative dividing line can be set at will according to the designer's needs, while the functional dividing line is usually formed by connecting darts into seams. Therefore, darts are used to close off the floating excess of the garment body, and the garment body is configured as a darted garment body, which has universal applicability.

(2) Collar: The collars of women's shirts are more variable and can be roughly divided into collarless, stand-up collar, flat collar, lapel, and lapel collar. It is difficult to summarize a common style that is suitable for all collar designs, so the women's collar is used here. The stand-up collar commonly used in shirts is a common collar style for women's shirts.

(3) Hem: The hem of women's shirts can be roughly divided into straight hem, round hem, and irregular hem. Both round hem and irregular hem can be designed on the basis of straight hem, so the common hem here is straight hem.

(4) Placket: The placket of women's shirts can be divided into open placket and concealed placket. The two can be interchanged. You can choose either one. Here, the open placket is chosen.

(5) Sleeves: The sleeves of blouses can be divided into round sleeves, continuous sleeves, split sleeves, and changing structures. Split sleeves and changing structures can be obtained by changing the graphics of round sleeves and continuous sleeves. In shirt design, round sleeves are more common, and it is more universal to set common style sleeves to round sleeves.

Step 2.2.4 Determine the common style of women's shirts; after the above analysis, this example uses the stand-up collar-darted body-one round sleeve-straight hem-open placket women's shirt as the common style of women's shirts. The style diagrams are shown in 7(a) and (b).

Step 2.3 Specification design of common styles of blouses; the bust relaxation amount of a fitted blouse is 6-10cm. Since the secondary sample should fit the human body as much as possible, the bust relaxation amount is designed here to be 8cm (taking into account that the waist will be reduced by 2cm) ), the waist circumference is designed to be 2cm. The stand-up collar adopts a standard collar. The standard collar has a gentle trend in collar tip length and angle. The collar tip length is 8.5-9.5cm, the angle between the left and right collar tips is 75-90°, and the collar seat height is 3.5-4cm. The collar tip length chosen here is 8.5cm, and the collar seat height is 3.5cm. The length of the blouse can be designed as needed. Here, the length is designed on the hip line to facilitate the personalized design of subsequent clothing. Therefore, the length of the blouse is designed as back length + hip height. The human hip height is measured to be 18cm. . The hip circumference is designed to be 2cm loose, and the human hip circumference is measured to be 90cm. The waist dart design is like a first-class model. The secondary sample specification design is shown in Table 2.

Table 2 Required human body dimensions and specification design for the second-level prototype

Step 2.5.1 Body modification of the secondary model

Therefore, this example is about designing clothing for normal bodies, and this step can be ignored if there are no shortcomings of the human body. If there are deficiencies in the human body that need to be modified, corresponding template corrections should be made in the secondary template.

Taking the obese body as an example, in order to modify the body shape, you can cut off an appropriate amount of the side seam of the front piece of the sample and add this part to the side seam of the back piece of the sample, so that the side seam of the garment is close to the front centerline, visually It can give people a slimmer feeling, thereby achieving the purpose of modifying the body shape.

Step 2.5.2 Secondary template design

(1) Secondary model body design

1) Prepare a sample of the first-level sample, as shown in Figure 8 (a) and (b);

2) Change design of clothing length: extend H1 from the original clothing length to the hip line, and design the clothing length of the secondary model at the hip line;

3) Change design of bust: The second-level model has 2cm more looseness in the bust than the first-level model, and the half-length is 1cm. Due to the needs of human body activities and the distribution of looseness in Figure 2, the looseness ratio of the front and back pieces is designed to be 2:3. , so the chest girth of the front piece of the second-level model should be added to the first-level model by 0.4cm, and the bust girth of the front piece of the second-level model should be added to the first-level model by 0.6cm, as shown in Figure 8 (a), ( b) shown.

4) Design to eliminate floating excess in the garment body: The floating excess in the garment body of the second-level model is eliminated in the form of darts. Since the second-level model should fit the human body as much as possible, the chest dart and shoulder dart design of the second-level model all follow the same design as the first-level dart. The dart design method of grade template. The waist dart position of the second-level model is canceled on the back center line, and the rest of the waist dart position settings of the first-level model are used, that is, below the bust point, the width line of the front sleeve hole moved forward by 1.5cm, the side seam line, and the width of the back sleeve hole The line is moved back by 1.0cm, and the vertical line of the back dart is shifted by 0.5cm from the rear midline; and 7% of the thoracolumbar difference at the rear centerline is allocated to the front piece of the secondary model, and the distribution ratio of the waist dart of the secondary model is from the front midline to The posterior midline is 18%, 18%, 11%, 35%, and 18%. The hip circumference of the second-level sample is equal to the bust circumference. The waist dart is designed in a willow leaf shape, and the other dart point is designed on the hip line to make the waist of the garment fit as closely as possible to the human body, as shown in Figure 9 (a), (b) shown.

5) Design of the neckline: The second-level model should fit the human body as much as possible, so the neckline of the second-level model follows the neckline of the first-level model.

6) Design of the body placket: The arc of the neckline starts from FNP along the arc inward and takes the placket width of 1.5cm to make the hip line. The two vertical lines, the arc of the neckline and the hip line form the body placket, as shown in Figure 9 (a) and (b).

7) Body button design: The secondary model designed in this embodiment has a total of 6 buttons, 1 button is set on the collar and 5 buttons are set on the body. The buttons are set on the front center line, starting from the FNP downward along the front center. Set the first button position at 5cm, then set the remaining 4 button positions at intervals of L5, as shown in Figure 9(a).

8) Outline the structural lines of the second-level sample body, and the structural design of the front and rear garment panels of the second-level sample is completed, as shown in Figure 9 (a) and (b).

(2) Secondary model collar design process

1) Design of the collar: Measure the length of the front and rear neckline arcs of the secondary model, and determine the width of the collar based on the sum of the length of the front and rear collar arcs, and determine the height of the collar based on the height of the collar L6. In order to ensure that the collar seat fits the human neck, the front collar needs to be raised. Here, the amount of curling is designed to be 1.5cm. It is raised 1.5cm from the long arc of the back neckline to point A as shown in Figure 10, and the collar is smoothed. The outer arc of the collar of the seat; make the vertical line AB of the outer arc of the collar from point A. The length of AB is L6-0.5cm. Smooth the inner arc of the collar of the collar; extend the outer arc of the collar outward to L4. Rounded corner door, as shown in Figure 10.

2) Design of the collar: draw a vertical line BC through point B to the midline, which is the lower horizontal line of the collar; bend vertically upwards from point C for 2cm to point D, connect BD, and modify it to a small arc, that is, the collar For the bottom arc, make the length of the bottom arc of the collar equal to the inner arc of the collar, as shown in Figure 10; determine the height of the collar with the collar width L7, and draw the collar angle according to the collar tip length L8. And draw the outer arc of the collar, as shown in Figure 10.

(3) Secondary sample sleeve design process

1) Copy the front and rear armholes of the body pattern, close the front armhole darts, and draw the front and rear armhole arcs, as shown in Figure 11. Measure the arc length of the front armhole as front AH, and the arc length of the back armhole as back AH.

2) Determine the height of the sleeve peak: Extend the side seam line upward to make the sleeve peak line, and determine the sleeve peak height on this line. The method is: measure the height from 1/2 of the height of the front and rear cusps to the bust line, which is h. , take 5/6 as the sleeve mountain height, as shown in Figure 11.

3) Determine the sleeve fat: Starting from the top of the sleeve peak, take a diagonal line from the bust line of the front piece equal to the front AH, and take a diagonal line from the bust line of the back piece equal to the back AH+1cm, as shown in Figure 12.

4) Drawing of the sleeve arc: On the slope of the front sleeve mountain, take the length of the front AH/4 from the point of the sleeve mountain downward, draw the vertical line of the sleeve mountain from this point, and take a length of 1.8cm; on the slope of the back sleeve mountain On the line, take the length of the front AH/4 from the top of the sleeve mountain, and draw the vertical line of the sleeve mountain from this point, and take a length of 1.9cm; draw a horizontal line at 1/3h, and connect it with the diagonal line of the front sleeve mountain and the rear sleeve mountain. Two points are obtained from the diagonal line. On the diagonal line of the front sleeve mountain, take 1cm upward from the intersection point to get the turning position of the front armhole arc. On the diagonal line of the back sleeve mountain, take 1cm downward from the intersection point to get the turning point of the front armhole arc. Position; draw a rounded and smooth line for the back armhole through the top of the sleeve mountain, two new positioning points, two turning position points and the bottom of the sleeve mountain, as shown in Figure 13.

5) Drawing of the sleeve body: From the top of the sleeve mountain point vertically downward L9 to the bottom of the sleeve, draw a horizontal line L10/2-1cm long from this point to the left, and draw a horizontal line L10/2+1cm long from this point to the left to complete the cuff. Drawing; connect the end point of the cuff and the bottom of the sleeve mountain to complete the drawing of the sleeve body. From the fixed point of the sleeve mountain, draw a horizontal line vertically downward to L9/2+2.5cm, which is the sleeve elbow line. From this, the sample drawing of the entire sleeve is completed, as shown in Figure 13 Show.

Step 3. Design the personalized clothing sample that needs to be customized based on the second-level sample, that is, the third-level sample

Step 3.1, determine the personalized customized blouse style drawing

Determine the personalized customized blouse style: rounded stand-up collar - armpit darts, back pleats, yoke body - one pleated round sleeves - straight hem - open placket blouse, as shown in Figure 14 (a), (b) shown.

Step 3.2, determine the material configuration, fabric thickness, fabric performance, clothing technology and function of this style of clothing; the relevant settings of this customized style are as follows: Material configuration: 1. Use cotton fabric; 2. Material performance: the fabric is inelastic; 3 .Fabric thickness: regular thickness; 4. Clothing technology and function: no special technology and function; the third-level sample should make corresponding changes in structure according to the material configuration, fabric thickness, fabric performance, clothing technology and function of the customized style clothing. , For example, if the fabric is elastic, the looseness of the garment can be appropriately reduced.

Step 3.3 Specification design of personalized blouse. See Table 3 for the specification design of personalized blouse.

Table 3 Personalized blouse specification design

Step 3.4 Three-level template design

(1) Three-level model body design

1) Prepare the template of the secondary template, as shown by the gray lines in Figure 15 (a) and (b);

2) Change design of clothing length: extend the original clothing length by 4cm to the bottom line of the third-level model, making the third-level model clothing length 60cm, as shown in Figure 15 (a) and (b).

3) Change design of bust and hip: The looseness of the bust of the third-level model is 2cm more than that of the second-level model, and the waist is 1cm. The third-level model is looser, so the looseness can be evenly distributed to the front and rear garments, so the third-level model Add 0.5cm to the bust circumference of the second-level model, as shown in Figure 15(a), (b); the bust and hip lengths of the third-level model are equal, so there is no need to continue to add the hip circumference, as shown in Figure 15(a), (b) ) shown.

4) Design to eliminate floating excess in the garment body: merge the bust dart and move it to the armpit dart 6cm below the armpit; draw a vertical line of the back midline at the end of the shoulder dart, which is the position of the back panel of the third-level model. , transfer 1/2 of the shoulder dart to the yoke, and use the yoke to eliminate it; smooth the back shoulder line, and use sewing technology to eliminate the remaining 1/2 of the shoulder dart. As shown in Figure 16(a) and (b).

5) Design of the neckline: Based on the second-level model, the front neckline of the third-level model is lowered by 2cm from the front center line, expanded by 0.5cm at the shoulder line, and the front neckline is smoothed, as shown in Figure 16(a); The back neckline of the third-level model is based on the second-level model. The back center line is dropped by 0.3cm, the shoulder line is expanded by 0.5cm, and the back neckline is smoothed, as shown in Figure 16(b).

6) Design of the body placket: From the arc of the neckline inward from FNP, take a placket width of 2cm to make the vertical line of the bottom line of the third-level model. From the arc of the neckline, take an arc outward from FNP and take a placket width of 2cm to make the bottom line. Line, two vertical lines, the arc of the neckline and the bottom line form the body placket.

7) Body button design: The three-level model designed in this embodiment has a total of 6 buttons, 1 button is set on the collar, 5 buttons are set on the body, and the buttons are set on the front center line, from the FNP downward along the front center. Set the first button position at 5cm, then set the remaining 4 button positions at intervals of L5'.

Body hem design: The hem of the third-level model is designed as a round hem. Design the starting point of the circular hem at the hip line, which is the bottom line of the second-level model, and draw the hem arc accordingly.

8) Outline the structural lines of the second-level sample body, and complete the structural design of the front and rear garment panels of the second-level sample, as shown in the figure.

(2) Level 3 model collar design

1) Design of the collar: measure the length of the front and rear neckline arcs of the third-level model, and determine the width of the collar based on the sum of the lengths of the front and back collar arcs, and determine the height of the collar based on the height of the collar L6’. In order to ensure that the collar fits the human neck, the front collar needs to be raised. Here, the amount of curling is designed to be 1.5cm. It is raised 1.5cm from the long arc of the back neckline to point A as shown in Figure 17, and the collar is smoothed. The outer arc of the collar of the seat; from point A, make the perpendicular line AB of the outer arc of the collar. The length of AB is L6'. Smooth the inner arc of the collar; extend the outer arc of the collar outward by L4' to make a circle. Corner door, as shown in Figure 17.

2) Design of the collar: draw a vertical line BC through point B to the midline, which is the lower horizontal line of the collar; bend vertically upwards from point C for 2cm to point D, connect BD, and modify it to a small arc, that is, the collar For the bottom arc, make the length of the bottom arc of the collar equal to the inner arc of the collar, as shown in Figure 17; determine the height of the collar based on the width of the collar L7', and draw the collar based on the length of the collar tip L8' corner, and make the outer arc of the collar, and then smooth the rounded corners according to the desired effect to complete the collar design, as shown in Figure 17.

(3) Level 3 sample sleeve design

1) Copy the front and rear armholes of the garment body sample, close the front armhole darts, and draw along the arcs of the front and rear armholes, as shown by the gray lines in Figure 18. Measure the arc length of the front armhole as front AH, and the arc length of the back armhole as back AH.

2) Determine the height of the sleeve peak: Extend the side seam line upward to make the sleeve peak line, and determine the sleeve peak height on this line. The method is: measure the height from 1/2 of the height of the front and rear cusps to the bust line, which is h. , take 5/6 as the sleeve mountain height, as shown in Figure 18.

3) Determine the sleeve fat: Starting from the top of the sleeve peak, take a diagonal line from the bust line of the front piece equal to the front AH, and take a diagonal line from the bust line of the back piece equal to the back AH+1cm, as shown in Figure 18.

4) Drawing of the sleeve arc: On the slope of the front sleeve mountain, take the length of the front AH/4 down from the peak of the sleeve mountain, draw the vertical line of the sleeve mountain from this point, and take a length of 1.5cm; on the slope of the back sleeve mountain On the line, take the length of the front AH/4 from the top of the sleeve mountain, and draw the vertical line of the sleeve mountain from this point, and take a length of 1.6cm; draw a horizontal line at 1/3h, and connect it with the diagonal line of the front sleeve mountain and the rear sleeve mountain. Two points are obtained from the diagonal line. On the diagonal line of the front sleeve mountain, take 1cm upward from the intersection point to get the turning position of the front armhole arc. On the diagonal line of the back sleeve mountain, take 1cm downward from the intersection point to get the turning point of the front armhole arc. Position: draw a rounded and smooth line for the back armhole through the top of the sleeve mountain, two new positioning points, two turning position points and the bottom of the sleeve mountain. As shown in Figure 18.

5) Drawing of the sleeve body: From the top of the sleeve mountain point vertically downward L9' to the bottom of the sleeve, use this point as the bottom line of the sleeve, and use the end point of the sleeve mountain as the vertical line of the sleeve bottom line to intersect the bottom line of the sleeve at points P and Q to complete the drawing of the sleeve structure. During production, just shrink the length of PQ to the length of L10'. As shown in Figure 19.

Claims (1)

1. A method for designing a clothing model grading system for personalized customization, which is characterized by: specifically including the following steps: Step 1: Design a first-level template containing human body characteristics; When designing the basic line of the first-level model in step 1, the following steps are specifically included: Step a), determine the width of the first-level sample and the length of the front and rear samples of the first-level sample; In step a), the length of the human body (chest girth + chest girth relaxation amount)/2 is used as the width of the first-level model, and the front and rear sample lengths of the first-level model are determined based on the front waist length and back waist length of the human body; Step b), determine the positions of the front and back neck points of the model based on the middle front length and back length; Step c), determine the positions of the front and rear neck points of the model based on the width of the front collar and the width of the back collar; Step d), determine the position of the model bust line based on the distance from the front neck point to the bust baseline; Step e), front bust/2+45%*a, determine the side suture position of the model, where a is half of the relaxed amount of the bust; Step f), determine the positions of the chest width line and the back width line respectively according to the lengths of the human body's chest width/2+30%*a and back width/2+40%*a; Step 2: Determine the clothing style category to be customized, and design a second-level model based on the first-level model that contains common features of the style categories; When designing the secondary model in step 2, the method for determining the height of the sleeve mountain is: measure the height from 1/2 of the height of the front and rear shoulder points to the bust line as h, and take 5/6 of h as the height of the sleeve mountain; Step 3: Design the personalized clothing model to be customized based on the second-level model, that is, the third-level model; In step 3, when designing the third-level model, the method to eliminate the floating allowance of the garment body is: merge the chest dart and transfer it to the armpit dart; draw a vertical line of the back center line at the end point of the shoulder dart. For the yoke position of the back piece of the third-level model, transfer 1/2 of the shoulder dart to the yoke, and use the yoke to eliminate it; smooth the back shoulder line, and use sewing technology to eliminate the remaining 1/2 of the shoulder dart.