CN112107061B

CN112107061B - Personalized custom-made clothing template grading system design method

Info

Publication number: CN112107061B
Application number: CN202011127421.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 齐静; 贺超君; 应柏安; 王小峰; 吴龙
Original assignee: Xian Polytechnic University
Current assignee: Xian Polytechnic University
Priority date: 2020-10-20
Filing date: 2020-10-20
Publication date: 2023-09-12
Anticipated expiration: 2040-10-20
Also published as: CN112107061A

Abstract

The invention discloses a personalized customization-oriented clothing template grading system design method, which specifically comprises the following steps: step 1, designing a first-level template containing human body characteristics; step 2, determining the style types of the clothing to be customized, and designing a secondary template comprising style type commonalities according to the primary template; and 3, designing a personalized clothing template to be customized according to the second-level template, namely, a third-level template. The invention can realize quick response to personalized clothing customization, improve flexibility and fit of clothing personalized customization, reduce production period of personalized customization, and is favorable for personalized clothing customization digitization.

Description

Personalized custom-made clothing template grading system design method

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing design and engineering, and relates to a personalized custom-made clothing template grading system design method.

Background

With the improvement of the living standard of people, people not only require comfortable and beautiful clothing, but also require more integration and individualization of the clothing. At present, the production mode of clothing enterprises is gradually changed from large-scale batch production to rapid-response personalized customization, so that the personalized clothing template generation technology research becomes a hotspot and trend of the industry for meeting the diversified demands of clothing products, however, the dependence of the generation of the clothing template on a template master in the personalized clothing customization process is larger, and the efficiency and the precision are lower.

The generation of the personalized template of the clothing at present mainly comprises the following methods: (1) obtaining a personalized template by utilizing rapid combination of style components in a style component library; (2) based on a large amount of human body data, subdividing human body types, arranging different substrates for different human body types, and generating a combined template by stacking; (3) parameterizing a design template; (4) the three-dimensional garment is unfolded to form a two-dimensional pattern. However, due to the different forms of the details of the human body, a plater is often required to readjust the template. Therefore, the personalized template of the garment at present is not really designed according to the human body characteristics of an individual, and the fit of the garment and the generation efficiency of the template are not high enough. The existing garment personalized customization is to arrange and combine the existing garment style components provided by the system, and no new style elements are generated. The flexibility of the personalized template of the clothing is not enough.

Aiming at the demands of multiple varieties, small batches and short period of the clothing market, the personalized template design needs to have a more effective method, and the flexibility and the fit of the template design are improved so as to meet the demands of individuation of consumers.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a personalized custom-made clothing template grading system design method, which can realize rapid response to personalized clothing custom-made, improve flexibility and fit of the personalized clothing custom-made, reduce production period of the personalized custom-made, and facilitate personalized custom-made digitization of the clothing.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention is that the method for designing the personalized custom-made clothing template grading system specifically comprises the following steps:

step 1, designing a first-level template containing human body characteristics;

step 2, determining the style types of the clothing to be customized, and designing a secondary template comprising style type commonalities according to the primary template;

and 3, designing a personalized clothing template to be customized according to the second-level template, namely, a third-level template.

The present invention is also characterized in that,

the step 1 is specifically to design the primary template basic line, and comprises the following steps:

step a), determining the width of a primary template and the length of templates before and after the primary template;

step b), determining the front neck point and the rear neck point of the template according to the front middle length and the rear back length;

step c), determining the positions of neck points on the front side and the rear side of the template according to the front collar width and the rear collar width;

step d), determining the position of the chest circumference line of the template according to the distance from the front neck point to the chest circumference datum line;

step e), determining the position of a side stitch of the template according to the front chest circumference/2+45%/a, wherein a is half of the loosening amount of the chest circumference;

and f), respectively determining positions of chest broad and back broad according to the lengths of chest broad/2+30% a and back broad/2+40% a of the human body.

In the step a), the length of the human body (chest circumference and chest circumference releasing amount)/2 is taken as the width of the first-class template, and the front-back template length of the first-class template is determined according to the front waist length and the back waist length of the human body.

In the step 2, when designing the secondary template, the method for determining the sleeve height comprises the following steps: the height from the 1/2 position of the front and back shoulder point to the chest girth is measured as h, and 5/6 of h is taken as the sleeve height.

In the step 3, when designing the three-level template, the method for eliminating the body float allowance comprises the following steps: the chest provinces are combined and transferred to the underarm provinces of the armpits; making a vertical line of a rear midline at the shoulder province end point, wherein the vertical line is a three-level template rear piece raising position, transferring 1/2 of the shoulder province to a raising position, and eliminating by utilizing raising; the back shoulder line is trimmed, and the rest 1/2 of the shoulder province is eliminated by adopting a sewing technology.

The invention has the beneficial effects that the invention decomposes one personalized clothing template into three steps to finish, namely, the design of the personalized clothing pattern is gradually increased by adopting a mode of 'primary template, secondary template and tertiary template', the personalized clothing can fully reflect the characteristics of human body through the primary template, the basic type of the personalized clothing is ensured through the secondary template, and finally, the personalized clothing template with high fit is formed. The method ensures the efficiency and the fit of the personalized clothing template generation, reduces the repetitive work of editors, improves the flexibility of the personalized template design, and provides a thinking for the digitization of the personalized clothing custom-made template design.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a graphical principle development human body surface;

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the loose weight distribution of a primary template of a female upper body;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a primary template base line after completion of a method for designing a personalized custom-made garment template grading system in accordance with the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the structure of the breast cone and the cone expansion surface in the method of designing the personalized custom-made clothing template grading system;

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the structure of a first-level template in a method for designing a personalized custom-made garment template grading system according to the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a diagram of female shirt style classification in a method of personalized custom-made garment template classification system design according to the present invention;

FIGS. 7 (a) and (b) are patterns of commonalities of a blouse in a method of designing a personalized custom-made garment template grading system in accordance with the present invention;

FIGS. 8 (a) and (b) are block diagrams showing the secondary sample garment length and chest circumference variation in a method for designing a personalized custom-made garment sample grading system;

FIGS. 9 (a) and (b) are two-level template body structure diagrams in a method for designing a personalized custom-made clothing template grading system;

FIG. 10 is a diagram of a secondary template collar structure in a method of personalized custom-made garment template grading system design in accordance with the present invention;

FIG. 11 is a schematic illustration of the determination of sleeve height in a method of personalized custom-made garment template grading system design of the present invention;

FIG. 12 is a schematic illustration of the determination of sleeve fertilizer in a method for personalized custom-made garment template grading system design in accordance with the present invention;

FIG. 13 is a diagram of a secondary template sleeve in a method of personalized custom-made garment template grading system design in accordance with the present invention;

FIGS. 14 (a) and (b) are diagrams of personalized blouse styles in a method of personalized custom-made garment template grading system design of the present invention;

FIGS. 15 (a) and (b) are block diagrams of three-level sample garment length and chest circumference variation in a method for designing a personalized custom-made garment sample grading system;

FIGS. 16 (a) and (b) are three-level template body construction diagrams in a personalized custom-made garment template grading system design method according to the present invention;

FIG. 17 is a diagram of a three-level template collar structure in a method for personalized custom-made garment template grading system design in accordance with the present invention;

FIG. 18 is a schematic illustration of three-level template sleeve height, fertilizer and armhole arc determination in a method of designing a personalized custom-made garment template grading system;

FIG. 19 is a three-level template sleeve structure diagram in a method for personalized custom-made garment template grading system design according to the present invention.

Detailed Description

The invention will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings and the detailed description.

The invention is completed by decomposing the personalized template into a process of 'first-level template, second-level template and third-level template', and decomposing the experience of personalized template design into the process, thereby simplifying the complex problem and realizing the systematic design of the personalized template of the clothing.

The invention relates to a personalized custom-made clothing template grading system design method, which comprises the following specific processes:

step 1, designing a first-level template containing human body characteristics:

the design of the first-level template is completed, and the body type characteristics, the body structure, the shape and the breathing looseness of the human body are fully considered. The method for completing the first-level template design can be practically selected according to actual conditions, for example: the human body is directly unfolded to form a plane by three-dimensional cutting, converting a three-dimensional human body into a two-dimensional plane and adopting a graphics principle.

Step 2, determining the types of the clothing styles to be customized, and designing a secondary template comprising style type commonalities according to the primary template:

determining a second-level template, namely determining the class of the custom-made clothing, fully researching the class of clothing, and analyzing the commonality style of the class of clothing, wherein the style contains all the constituent elements of the class of clothing, has universal applicability, can make any style change and is fit with a human body as much as possible; observing whether the physical characteristics of the customer of the custom-made garment are insufficient, such as high and low shoulders and the like; and finally, modifying the deficiency of the human body on the basis of the primary template, and drawing the template with the common style to finish the design of the secondary template.

Step 3, designing a personalized clothing template to be customized according to the second-level template, namely a third-level template;

determining a three-level template, namely determining customized personalized clothing styles, material configuration, clothing functions, material performances, clothing technology, fabric thickness and other factors, and completing the design of the three-level template on the basis of the two-level template.

Examples: taking the design of personalized blouse as an example for illustration

Step 1, designing a first-level template containing human body characteristics:

step 1.1 determining a first level template design method

The embodiment is based on Japanese eighth generation cultural female dress prototypes, and is improved by combining with the graphics principle to obtain a first-class template. The first-level template is a template for an individual, and an existing clothing prototype cannot be directly used, because the existing clothing prototype pursues a body shape that covers a target group as much as possible, and cannot sufficiently reflect body characteristics.

The body surface is developed by utilizing the graphic principle, and the body characteristics and the shape are fully reflected by the corresponding relation of the net body size and the characteristic points and the datum line of the body by combining the shape of the Japanese eighth generation cultural prototype. Because the difference of human body is mainly reflected on the body part of human body, only the upper body template of human body is studied here.

The first-level template also needs to consider the breathing looseness required by human physiology, the typical chest circumference looseness is 4-6cm, and the waist-province method is considered to refer to Japanese new culture prototype waist-shortening province, so that the waist-province mainly takes the chest circumference looseness about 2cm, and the looseness is designed to be 6cm, so that the basic physiological requirement of the human body is met. The waistline is designed to be 2cm. In the clothing template automatic design system based on the method, the tightness of chest circumference, waistline tightness and the like can be set as variables which are input interactively, and proper tightness values are input according to personalized dressing requirements of different consumers.

The principle of graphics is that the principle of developing the surface of a human body is shown in figure 1, and the loose quantity distribution of the primary template of the female upper body is shown in figure 2.

Step 1.1.1 first-level template base line design method

Taking the length of the human body (chest circumference plus chest circumference looseness)/2' as the width of the first-class template, and determining the front and rear template lengths of the first-class template according to the front waist length and the rear waist length of the human body; the front neck point and the back neck point of the sample plate are determined by the front middle length and the back length; determining the positions of neck points on the front side and the rear side of the template according to the front collar width and the rear collar width; determining the position of a chest circumference line of the template according to the distance from the front neck point to the chest circumference datum line; determining the side stitch position of the template by 'front chest circumference/2+45% (chest circumference looseness/2)'; and then the positions of the chest width lines and the back width lines are respectively determined according to the chest width/2+30% (chest circumference loosening amount/2) and the back width/2+40% (chest circumference loosening amount/2) of the human body. The completed primary template base line is shown in fig. 3, in which the point FNP represents the midpoint of the anterior neck, BNP represents the midpoint of the posterior neck, SNP represents the point of the lateral neck, front represents the Front template, and Back represents the rear template.

Step 1.1.2 design method of first-level template chest provincial angle

The female chest is approximately regarded as a cone, and when the cone is unfolded into a two-dimensional plane paper pattern, the cone can be approximately regarded as a sector. Fig. 4 is a plane view of a conical breast and a conical expansion plane, wherein a dart point is positioned at a breast point O, a dart angle is α, h is the thickness of the breast, and r is the radius of the circle on the bottom surface of the conical breast.

The calculation formula of the chest province angle:

wherein X is ₁ 、X ₂ The length of the front chest girth line and the front breast root girth line are respectively,namely the length of the thoracoprovincial tract, namely the length of the body surface curve between the breast peak point and the anterior axillary point. The chest province can be drawn according to the chest province angle and the chest province track length. The location of the breast point is determined by the breast spacing.

Step 1.1.3 first-level template shoulder line and shoulder province design method

The first-level template shoulder line design is determined by adopting an angle along the eighth generation prototype in Japan, and the shoulder line length is determined by the shoulder width length of a human body. Because the shoulder blade part of the female body is not protruded greatly, the fit of the garment is not greatly influenced, a shoulder province calculation formula of the Japanese eighth generation cultural prototype is adopted here, and the calculation formula is as follows: shoulder province = chest circumference/32-0.8 cm.

Step 1.1.4 first-level template waist-saving design method

The first-class template waist province design adopts a Japanese eighth generation prototype design method, namely: the distribution ratio of the lumbar provinces is 14%, 15%, 11%, 35%, 18%, 7% from the anterior midline to the posterior midline in this order. The positions of the waist province are respectively: the anterior armhole wide line moves forward by 1.5cm below the chest point, the lateral suture line moves backward by 1.0cm, and the dorsal provincial vertical line moves backward by 0.5 cm.

Step 1.2 determining data required for the Primary template

According to step 1.1, the human body data required by the first-level template is shown in table 1, and the human body data of this embodiment is derived from young females with a body height of 160 cm.

Table 1 primary template human body data table

Sequence number	Data name	Data variable	Data (Unit: cm)
				1	Chest width	AF	32
2	Back width	AB	34
				4	Front middle length	CFL	36
5	Back length	CBL	38
				6	Front waist length	C1	43
7	Rear waist length	C2	40.5
				8	Front collar width	FNW	7
9	Rear collar width	BNW	7.2
				10	Anterior cervical Point-to-chest circumference distance	C3	18
11	Chest circumference	B	84
				12	Front chest girth	FB	44
14	Root of front breast	B1	36
				13	Distance from the anterior axillary point to the chest circumference	C4	6
15	Milk distance	L1	16
				16	Body surface curve length between breast peak point and anterior axillary point	C5	11
20	Shoulder width	SW	12
				21	Scapular point spacing	L2	18
22	High shoulder blade point	C6	10
				23	Waistline	W	68

Step 1.3 determining a Primary template

The completed primary template is shown in fig. 5.

step 2.1, determining the custom-made garment style category

In this embodiment, a personalized blouse design is taken as an example, and the custom-made garment is a blouse.

Step 2.2, investigating the clothing style of the style category, and analyzing the commonality style;

step 2.2.1, investigating the blouse style and classifying the style elements

The belongings of the embodiment are blouse, the main blouse styles on the market are classified, the blouse style elements are a body, a collar, a hem, a top fly and sleeves, and the details of the blouse style element classification are shown in fig. 6.

Step 2.2.2, explicitly analyzing the commonality style principle

By classifying the blouse patterns, the commonalities in pattern changes are analyzed, mainly from the following aspects:

1) The commonality style should contain all the constituent elements of the style category;

2) The commonality style has general applicability and can be changed arbitrarily;

3) The common clothing body fits the human body as much as possible.

Step 2.2.3 analysis of the common patterns of the blouse

(1) Clothing body: the body of the blouse can be divided into a province line, a dividing line, a no province line and a dividing line, the dividing line can be divided into a decoration dividing line and a function dividing line, the decoration dividing line can be set at will according to the needs of a designer, and the function dividing line is usually formed by connecting provinces to form a seam. Therefore, the floating allowance of the garment body is collected in a provincial way, and the garment body is provided with the provincial way, so that the universal applicability is realized.

(2) A collar: the collar of the blouse has more variability and can be roughly divided into a non-collar, a vertical collar, a flat collar, a lapel and a lapel, and common patterns suitable for all collar designs are difficult to be summarized, so that the lapel of the lapel commonly used in the blouse is adopted as the common patterns of the collar of the blouse.

(3) And (3) a lower hem: the hem of the blouse can be roughly divided into a direct hem, a round hem and an irregular hem, and the round hem and the irregular hem can be designed on the basis of the direct hem, so the common hem is selected as the direct hem.

(4) Front fly: the top fly of the blouse can be divided into a bright top fly and a dark top fly, which can be mutually changed, and one of the two top fly and the top fly can be selected as the bright top fly.

(5) Sleeves: the sleeves of the blouse can be divided into round sleeves, continuous sleeves, split sleeves and variable structures. The split sleeves and the changing structure can be obtained by changing the patterns of the round sleeves and the continuous sleeves, the round sleeves are more common in shirt design, and the common style sleeves are more common to be arranged as the round sleeves.

Step 2.2.4, determining the common patterns of the blouse; through the analysis, the example uses the stand-up collar-provincial body-one round sleeve-direct pendulum-open top female shirt as a common style of female shirt. The style diagrams are shown in (a) and (b) of the figure.

Step 2.3, designing specifications of a common pattern of the blouse; the bust relaxation amount of the fit blouse is 6-10cm, and the second-level template is attached to the human body as much as possible, so the bust relaxation amount is designed to be 8cm (the bust can be folded by 2cm when the waist is folded), and the waistline is designed to be 2cm. The turning collar adopts a standard collar, the length of the standard collar tip and the angle trend are gentle, the length of the collar tip is 8.5-9.5cm, the included angle between the left collar tip and the right collar tip is 75-90 degrees, and the height of the collar seat is 3.5-4cm. The length of the collar tip is 8.5cm, and the height of the collar seat is 3.5cm. The length of the blouse can be designed according to the requirement, the length of the blouse is designed on the hip line, and the personalized design of the subsequent clothing is facilitated, so that the length of the blouse is designed to be back length plus hip height, and the hip height of a human body is measured to be 18cm. The hip looseness was designed to be 2cm and the hip size was measured to be 90cm. The waist-saving design is like a first-class template. The second-level template specification is designed as shown in table 2.

Table 2 human body size and specification design for secondary template

Step 2.5.1 modification of body shape of the second template

Therefore, for example, the clothing is designed for a normal body, and the step of not having the deficiency of the human body can be ignored. If the human body has defects and needs to be modified, the corresponding template modification should be carried out on the secondary template.

Taking obesity as an example, a part of the side seam of the front piece of the sample plate can be cut off in a proper amount, and the part is added at the side seam of the rear piece of the sample plate, so that the side seam of the garment is close to the front center line, and a user can feel a small and slim point visually, thereby achieving the purpose of modifying the body shape.

Step 2.5.2 design of the two-level template

(1) Two-stage model clothing design

1) Preparing a template of a first class template as shown in fig. 8 (a) and (b);

2) Design of the change of the clothing length: extending the original clothing length from H1 to the hip girth, wherein the clothing length of the second-level template is designed on the hip girth;

3) Chest circumference variation design: the bust of the secondary template is 2cm more than that of the primary template, the bust is 1cm, and the bust of the front template and the rear template is designed to be 2:3 according to the distribution of the bust of the figure 2 required by human activities, so that the bust of the front template of the secondary template is added with 0.4cm on the basis of the primary template, and the bust of the front template of the rear template is added with 0.6cm on the basis of the primary template, as shown in figures 8 (a) and (b).

4) Eliminating design of body floating allowance: the floating allowance of the clothing body of the second-level template is eliminated in a provincial way, and the design of the chest province and the shoulder province of the second-level template is along with the provincial way design method of the first-level template because the second-level template is attached to the human body as much as possible. The setting of the waist-saving position of the second-level template on the rear central line is canceled, and the rest is set along the waist-saving position of the first-level template, namely, the front armhole is moved forward by 1.5cm below the chest point, the side suture line and the rear armhole are moved backward by 1.0cm, and the back-saving vertical line is shifted backward by 0.5cm; and the chest and waist difference of 7% at the rear central line is distributed to the front part of the secondary template, and the distribution proportion of the waist of the secondary template is 18%, 11%, 35% and 18% from the front central line to the rear central line in sequence. The hip circumference of the second-level template is equal to the chest circumference, the waist province is designed into a willow leaf shape, and the other province point is designed on the hip circumference line, so that the waist of the garment is clamped to the human body as much as possible, as shown in fig. 9 (a) and (b).

5) Design of a neckline: the secondary template should be attached to the human body as much as possible, so the neckline of the secondary template is along the neckline of the primary template.

6) The design of the front fly of the clothing body: the collar arc line is 1.5cm wide from the FNP along the arc line to form a vertical line of the hip circumference, and the two vertical lines, the collar arc line and the hip circumference form the garment body top, as shown in fig. 9 (a) and (b).

7) The design of the body button position: the two-stage template designed in this embodiment has 6 buttons in total, 1 collar, 5 clothes body, and button position on front center line, and first button position 5cm down from FNP along front center, and then 4 other buttons are arranged at intervals of L5 in sequence, as shown in FIG. 9 (a).

8) The structural lines of the clothing body of the second-level template are drawn, and the structural design of the front clothing piece and the rear clothing piece of the second-level template is completed, as shown in fig. 9 (a) and fig. 9 (b).

(2) Two-stage template collar design process

1) The design of the collar base: measuring the arc lengths of the front neckline and the rear neckline of the secondary template, determining the width of the neck seat according to the sum of the arc lengths of the front neckline and the rear neckline, and determining the height of the neck seat according to the neck seat height L6. The front collar needs to be tilted to ensure that the front collar is attached to the neck of a human body, wherein the tilting amount is designed to be 1.5cm, the front collar is tilted upwards from the length of the arc line of the rear collar to a point A shown in figure 10, and the outer arc line of the collar of the front collar is trimmed; the point A is used for making a vertical line AB of an outer arc line of the collar base, the length AB is L6-0.5cm, and the inner arc line of the collar base is trimmed; the collar outer arc is outwards prolonged by L4 to form a round angle for lapping, as shown in figure 10.

2) The design of collar surface: the passing point B is a vertical line BC to the middle line, and the line is a lower flat line of the collar surface; connecting BD from the vertical upward lodging amount of the point C to the point D, and correcting the point D to be a small arc, namely a collar bottom arc of the collar surface, so that the length of the collar bottom arc of the collar surface is equal to the inner arc of the collar base, as shown in figure 10; the height of the collar surface is determined by the collar surface width L7, the collar angle of the collar surface is designed and drawn according to the collar tip length L8, and the outer arc of the collar surface is taken as shown in figure 10.

(3) Design process of two-stage template sleeve

1) Copying front and back armholes of the coat body template, closing the front armholes, and drawing arc lines along the front and back armholes, as shown in figure 11. The length of the front armhole arc line is measured as a front AH, and the length of the rear armhole arc line is measured as a rear AH.

2) The sleeve height is determined by extending the side suture upwards to form a sleeve thread and determining the sleeve height on the thread, and the method comprises the following steps: the height from the 1/2 of the height of the front and rear cusps to the chest girth is measured as h, and 5/6 of the height is taken as the sleeve height, as shown in fig. 11.

3) Determining sleeve fertilizer: starting from the top of the sleeve, the diagonal length of the chest girth line of the front piece is equal to the front AH, and the diagonal length of the chest girth line of the rear piece is equal to the rear AH+1cm, as shown in FIG. 12.

4) Drawing an armhole arc: taking the length of the front AH/4 downwards along the top point of the sleeve on the inclined line of the front sleeve, taking the point position as the vertical line of the sleeve, and taking the length of 1.8 cm; taking the length of the front AH/4 downwards along the sleeve top point on the inclined line of the rear sleeve, taking the point as the vertical line of the sleeve and taking the length of 1.9 cm; making a horizontal line at 1/3h, obtaining two points with a front sleeve slope and a rear sleeve slope, taking 1cm upwards along the intersection point of the front sleeve slope to obtain a front sleeve arc turning position, and taking 1cm downwards along the intersection point of the rear sleeve slope to obtain a front sleeve arc turning position; the circle is drawn along the back armhole line through the top of the armhole, the two new positioning points, the two turning position points and the bottom of the armhole, as shown in figure 13.

5) Drawing a sleeve body: the top point of the sleeve is vertically downwards L9 to the sleeve bottom, the point is towards a horizontal line with the length of L10/2-1cm, and the point is leftwards provided with a horizontal line with the length of L10/2+1cm, so that the drawing of the sleeve opening is completed; the end points of the cuffs are connected with the bottoms of the armsets to finish the drawing of the sleeve bodies, and the armsets are fixed by the armsets and vertically downwards with L9/2+2.5cm to serve as horizontal lines, namely sleeve elbow lines, so that the drawing of the templates of the whole sleeves is finished, and the drawing of the templates of the whole sleeves is shown in figure 13.

Step 3, designing a personalized clothing template to be customized according to the second template, namely a third template

Step 3.1, determining personalized customized blouse style patterns

Determining a personalized custom blouse style: round corner turnup collar-armpit province, back fold, body of the nursing garment-one shirred round sleeve-direct pendulum-open top female shirt, as shown in fig. 14 (a) and (b).

Step 3.2, determining material configuration, fabric thickness, fabric performance, garment technology and functions of the garment of the style; the relevant settings for this custom style are as follows: material configuration: 1. cotton fabric is adopted; 2. the material performance is as follows: the fabric is inelastic; 3. thickness of fabric: conventional thickness; 4. clothing technology and function: no special process or function exists; the three-level template is correspondingly changed in structure according to the material configuration of the custom-made style clothing, the thickness of the fabric, the performance of the fabric and the clothing technology and function, for example, if the fabric has elasticity, the loose quantity of the clothing can be properly reduced.

Step 3.3 specification design of personalized blouse the specification design of personalized blouse is shown in table 3.

Table 3 personalized blouse specification design

Step 3.4 three level template design

(1) Three-level sample plate clothing body design

1) Preparing a template of a secondary template, as shown by gray lines in fig. 15 (a), (b);

2) Design of the change of the clothing length: the original coat length is extended to 4cm to the bottom line of the three-stage template, so that the three-stage template coat length is 60cm, as shown in fig. 15 (a) and (b).

3) Chest circumference and hip circumference variation design: the bust of the third-level template is 2cm more than that of the second-level template, namely 1cm in half, and the third-level template is loose, so that the bust can be equally distributed to front and rear clothing pieces, and the third-level template is added with 0.5cm on the bust of the second-level template respectively, as shown in fig. 15 (a) and (b); the chest circumference of the three-level template is equal to the hip circumference length, so the hip circumference need not be further added, as shown in fig. 15 (a) and (b).

4) Eliminating design of body floating allowance: the chest provinces are combined and transferred to the armpit provinces at the 6cm position of the armpit; making a vertical line of a rear midline at the shoulder province end point, wherein the vertical line is a three-level template rear piece raising position, transferring 1/2 of the shoulder province to a raising position, and eliminating by utilizing raising; the back shoulder line is trimmed, and the rest 1/2 of the shoulder province is eliminated by adopting a sewing technology. As shown in fig. 16 (a) and (b).

5) Design of a neckline: the front piece neckline of the three-level template is lowered by 2cm on the basis of the two-level template, the shoulder line is extended by 0.5cm, and the front neckline is trimmed, as shown in fig. 16 (a); the back piece neckline of the three-stage template is lowered by 0.3cm on the back center line on the basis of the two-stage template, the shoulder line is extended by 0.5cm, and the back neckline is trimmed, as shown in fig. 16 (b).

6) The design of the front fly of the clothing body: the collar arc line is inwards taken from the FNP along the arc line to be 2cm wide and is used for making a perpendicular line of a three-level template bottom line, the collar arc line is outwards taken from the FNP along the arc line to be 2cm wide and is used for making a bottom line perpendicular line, and the two perpendicular lines, the collar arc line and the bottom line form the garment body top.

7) The design of the body button position: the three-level template designed in the embodiment is totally provided with 6 buttons, 1 collar is provided with 5 clothes bodies, button positions are arranged on a front central line, a first button position is arranged from an FNP position to 5cm downwards along the front center, then the first button positions are sequentially separated by L5', and the rest 4 button positions are arranged.

Design of a clothing body lower hem: the lower hem of the three-level sample plate is designed as a circular hem, and the starting point of the circular hem is designed on the hip circumference line, namely the bottom line of the two-level sample plate, and the arc line of the lower hem is drawn.

8) And drawing the structural lines of the clothing body of the secondary template, and finishing the structural design of the front clothing piece and the rear clothing piece of the secondary template as shown in the figure.

(2) Three-level template collar design

1) The design of the collar base: measuring the arc lengths of the front neckline and the rear neckline of the three-level template, determining the width of the neck seat according to the sum of the arc lengths of the front neckline and the rear neckline, and determining the height of the neck seat according to the neck seat height L6'. The front collar needs to be tilted to ensure that the neck is attached to the human neck, wherein the tilting amount is designed to be 1.5cm, the front collar is tilted upwards from the length of the arc line of the rear collar to a point A shown in figure 17, and the outer arc line of the collar is trimmed; the point A is used for making a vertical line AB of an outer arc line of the collar base, the AB length is L6', and the inner arc line of the collar base is trimmed; the collar outer arc is extended outwards by L4' to form a round angle for lapping, as shown in figure 17.

2) The design of collar surface: the passing point B is a vertical line BC to the middle line, and the line is a lower flat line of the collar surface; the vertical upward lodging amount of the point C is 2cm to the point D, and the point D is connected with BD, and is corrected to be a small arc, namely a collar bottom arc of the collar surface, so that the length of the collar bottom arc of the collar surface is equal to the inner arc of the collar base, as shown in figure 17; the height of the collar surface is determined by the collar surface width L7', the collar angle of the collar surface is designed and drawn according to the collar tip length L8', the outer arc line of the collar surface is made, and then the round angle is trimmed according to the expected effect, so that the collar surface design is completed, as shown in figure 17.

(3) Three-level template sleeve design

1) Copying front and back armholes of the coat body template, closing the front armholes, and drawing front and back armhole arcs, as shown by gray lines in fig. 18. The length of the front armhole arc line is measured as a front AH, and the length of the rear armhole arc line is measured as a rear AH.

2) The sleeve height is determined by extending the side suture upwards to form a sleeve thread and determining the sleeve height on the thread, and the method comprises the following steps: the height from the 1/2 of the height of the front and rear cusps to the chest girth is measured as h, and 5/6 of the height is taken as the sleeve height, as shown in fig. 18.

3) Determining sleeve fertilizer: starting from the top of the sleeve, the diagonal length of the chest girth line of the front piece is equal to the front AH, and the diagonal length of the chest girth line of the rear piece is equal to the rear AH+1cm, as shown in FIG. 18.

4) Drawing an armhole arc: taking the length of the front AH/4 downwards along the top point of the sleeve on the inclined line of the front sleeve, taking the point position as the vertical line of the sleeve, and taking the length of 1.5 cm; taking the length of the front AH/4 downwards along the sleeve top point on the inclined line of the rear sleeve, taking the point as the vertical line of the sleeve and taking the length of 1.6 cm; making a horizontal line at 1/3h, obtaining two points with a front sleeve slope and a rear sleeve slope, taking 1cm upwards along the intersection point of the front sleeve slope to obtain a front sleeve arc turning position, and taking 1cm downwards along the intersection point of the rear sleeve slope to obtain a front sleeve arc turning position; the round is drawn along the back armhole line through the top of the armhole, two new positioning points, two turning position points and the bottom of the armhole. As shown in fig. 18.

5) Drawing a sleeve body: and (3) vertically downwards L9 'from the top point of the sleeve to the sleeve bottom, making a sleeve bottom line from the top point of the sleeve, making a sleeve bottom line perpendicular line from the end point of the sleeve to cross the sleeve bottom line at a point P, Q, and drawing the sleeve structure, wherein the length of PQ is drawn to the length of L10' during manufacture. As shown in fig. 19.

Claims

1. A personalized custom-made garment template grading system design method, which is characterized in that: the method specifically comprises the following steps:

step 1, designing a first-level template containing human body characteristics;

the step 1 specifically includes the following steps:

in the step a), the length of the human body (chest circumference and chest circumference releasing amount)/2 is taken as the width of the first-order template, and the front and back template lengths of the first-order template are determined according to the front waist length and the back waist length of the human body;

step f), respectively determining positions of chest width lines and back width lines according to lengths of chest width/2+30% a and back width/2+40% a of a human body;

the method for determining the sleeve height when designing the secondary template in the step 2 comprises the following steps: measuring the height h from the 1/2 position of the front and rear shoulder points to the chest girth, and taking 5/6 of the h as the sleeve height;