CN115191701A

CN115191701A - Front-bent suit template design method

Info

Publication number: CN115191701A
Application number: CN202210932929.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 叶海滨
Original assignee: Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology
Current assignee: Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology
Priority date: 2022-08-04
Filing date: 2022-08-04
Publication date: 2022-10-18

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of garment plate making, in particular to a design method of a suit template of a front inclined body. The design method of the front-inclined suit template comprises the following steps: taking a point ABCD on the prototype front piece, respectively folding along BAC and DA, cutting and sewing to form an initial front piece; and taking a point EFG on the prototype back sheet, then respectively stretching along the FE and folding along the DA, cutting and sewing to form the initial back sheet. The design method of the suit template of the front inclined body provided by the invention comprises the steps of cutting a prototype front piece and a prototype rear piece, folding the prototype front piece along the left-right direction of BAC, folding the prototype front piece along the DA up-down direction, stretching the prototype rear piece along the FE left-right direction, and stretching the prototype rear piece along the GE up-down direction, so that the suit template suitable for the front inclined body is formed, and the defect that the suit of the front inclined body in the prior art cannot be used is overcome.

Description

Front-bent suit template design method

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of garment plate making, in particular to a design method of a suit template of a front inclined body.

Background

With the development of modern society, most people need to sit at work and still sit for a long time when going home, and play games for a long time even if people rest on non-working days. The life comes down a day, and most of the time is spent on the stool. The body posture that the front body is shortened in the longitudinal direction, the back body is lengthened, the front width is narrowed and the back width is increased compared with the normal body can be formed due to the gravity deviation of the human body caused by the lack of exercise for long-term sitting, and the body posture is generally called as forward leaning body.

In the current business of western-style clothes, the front-inclined western-style clothes are not designed, and if the normal western-style clothes are worn on the front-inclined body, the front clothes are longer, the back clothes are shorter, the back clothes can be tilted, and the western-style clothes are not suitable for use.

Disclosure of Invention

Therefore, the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art with front-inclined suits, and to provide a method for designing a suit template capable of manufacturing a front-inclined body suitable for a front-inclined suit.

In order to solve the technical problem, the invention provides a method for designing a front-inclined western-style clothes template, which comprises the following steps:

s1, taking a point A on a prototype front piece, wherein the point A is on a front province line and is positioned above a chest circumference line;

s2, taking a point B on the front piece of the prototype, wherein the point B is positioned on the front shoulder line and between a snp point and an sp point;

s3, taking a point C on the prototype front piece, wherein the point C is positioned on the front waistline;

s4, taking a point D on the front piece of the prototype, wherein the point D is on the front central line and is positioned above the chest line;

s5, connecting the BAC, cutting the front prototype piece along the BAC, keeping the front prototype piece on the left side still, and folding the front prototype piece on the right side along the left-right direction to obtain points B ', A ' and C ' at the same time; the distances between point C and point C 'and between point a and point a' are the same; connecting DA, cutting off the prototype front piece along the extension of DA to the chest dart line, keeping the lower prototype front piece still, and folding the upper prototype front piece in the up-down direction to obtain a point D ', connecting the point D ' A ', and enabling DA to be parallel to the point D ' A ';

s6, extending to the chest dart line position along B ' A ' C ' and D ' A ' and sewing to form an initial front piece;

s7, taking a point E on the prototype rear sheet, wherein the point E is positioned on the rear provincial line;

s8, taking a point F on the prototype back sheet, wherein the point F is the intersection point of the back waist line and the back province line;

s9, taking a point G on the prototype rear sheet, wherein the point G is positioned on a rear central line;

s10, connecting an EF, extending to a shoulder line along the FE, cutting the shoulder line, stretching the shoulder line along the left direction and the right direction, and obtaining points E ' and F ', wherein the distances between the points E ' and between the points F ' and F ' are the same; connecting GE, extending and shearing to an armhole along a straight line where GE is located, stretching along the up-down direction, and obtaining points E 'and G', wherein the distances between the point E and the point E 'and the distances between the point G and the point G' are the same;

s11, extending to the position of the shoulder dart line along the straight line of G 'E' and E 'F' and sewing to form an initial back sheet.

Optionally, the forward inclination angle of the human body is measured, and the CC' length is determined based on the measured forward inclination angle of the human body.

Alternatively, the distance between point C and point C 'is the same as the distance between point F and point F'.

Optionally, when the forward inclination angle is 5 degrees, the length of the CC' is 0.3cm.

Optionally, the body length parameter is measured, and the DD' length is determined based on the measured body length parameter.

Alternatively, the distance between point D and point D 'is the same as the distance between point G and point G'.

The technical scheme of the invention has the following advantages:

1. the invention provides a design method of a forerake type suit template, which cuts a prototype front piece and a prototype rear piece, folds and collects the prototype front piece along the left and right directions of BAC, folds and collects the prototype front piece along the DA up and down directions, draws and expands the prototype rear piece along the FE left and right directions and draws and expands the prototype rear piece along the GE up and down directions, thereby forming the suit template suitable for the forerake type body and overcoming the defect that the suit of the forerake type body in the prior art cannot be shaped.

Drawings

In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly described below, and it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are some embodiments of the present invention, and other drawings can be obtained by those skilled in the art without creative efforts.

FIG. 1 is a schematic structural view of a front-lean suit template in example 1 of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a front rake suit template in example 2 of the present invention;

description of reference numerals:

1. a prototype front sheet; 11. front line saving; 12. a chest line; 13. a front shoulder line; 14. a front waistline; 15. a front centerline; 16. saving the chest line; 2. prototype rear plate; 21. saving the wire; 211. shoulder line saving; 22. a back waist line; 23. a rear centerline; 3. a template front piece; 4. a template side piece; 5. a template rear sheet; 6. a first sleeve sheet; 7. a second sleeve piece.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions of the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to the accompanying drawings, and it should be understood that the described embodiments are some, but not all embodiments of the present invention. All other embodiments, which can be obtained by a person skilled in the art without making any creative effort based on the embodiments in the present invention, belong to the protection scope of the present invention.

In the description of the present invention, it should be noted that the terms "center", "upper", "lower", "left", "right", "vertical", "horizontal", "inner", "outer", and the like indicate orientations or positional relationships based on the orientations or positional relationships shown in the drawings, and are only for convenience of description and simplicity of description, but do not indicate or imply that the device or element being referred to must have a specific orientation, be constructed and operated in a specific orientation, and thus, should not be construed as limiting the present invention.

In addition, the technical features involved in the different embodiments of the present invention described below may be combined with each other as long as they do not conflict with each other.

Example 1

Referring to fig. 1, the method for designing a western-style clothes template of a front-inclined body according to this embodiment includes:

s1, taking a point A on a prototype front sheet 1, wherein the point A is on a front province line 11 and is positioned above a chest circumference line 12;

s2, taking a point B on the prototype front sheet 1, wherein the point B is positioned on the front shoulder line 13 and between a snp point and an sp point;

s3, taking a point C on the prototype front piece 1, wherein the point C is positioned on the front waistline 14;

s4, taking a point D on the prototype front piece 1, wherein the point D is on the front center line 15 and is positioned above the chest line 12;

s5, connecting a BAC, cutting the prototype front piece 1 along the BAC, keeping the prototype front piece 1 on the left side still, and folding the prototype front piece 1 on the right side along the left-right direction to obtain points B ', A ' and C ' at the same time; the distances between point C and point C 'and between point a and point a' are the same; connecting DA, cutting off the prototype front piece 1 along the DA extending to the chest dart line 16, keeping the lower prototype front piece 1 still, and folding the upper prototype front piece 1 along the up-down direction to obtain a point D ', connecting the point D ' A ', and enabling the DA to be parallel to the point D ' A ';

s6, extending to the position of the chest dart line 16 along B ' A ' C ' and D ' A ' and sewing to form an initial front piece;

s7, taking a point E on the prototype rear sheet 2, wherein the point E is positioned on the rear province line 21;

s8, taking a point F on the prototype rear sheet 2, wherein the point F is the intersection point of the rear waistline 22 and the rear province line 21;

s9, taking a point G on the prototype back sheet 2, wherein the point G is positioned on the back center line 23;

s10, connecting EF, extending to a shoulder dart line 211 along FE, cutting off and stretching along the left-right direction, and obtaining points E 'and F', wherein the distances between the points E 'and between the points F and F' are the same; connecting GE, extending and cutting to armholes along the straight line where GE is located, stretching along the up-down direction, and obtaining points E 'and G', wherein the distances between the points E 'and between the points G and G' are the same;

s11, extending to the position of the shoulder dart line 211 along the straight line G 'E' and E 'F' to be sewn to form an initial back sheet.

Specifically, in order to visually recognize the difference between the posture of the forward leaning body and the normal human body as much as possible, in the human body model on the right side of fig. 1, the dotted line represents the forward leaning body posture, and the solid line represents the normal human body posture.

It should be noted that the anteversion body is generally expressed by the body including the chest and the back of the arch. The upper body is bent forward without thickness and is inclined forward on the longitudinal axis. Therefore, the front body is shorter than the standard body, the back body is longer than the standard body, and the neck and the arms tilt forward compared with the standard body.

Since the chest is contained by leaning forward and the chest is not thick, the length of the front waist section is shortened, and in the embodiment, the front chest of the prototype front piece 1 is folded along the straight line of DA above the chest circumference line 12, so that the length and the chest convexity are reduced.

The prototype front sheet 1 and the prototype rear sheet 2 correspond to the front and the back of the human body, and particularly the longitudinal axis of the human body inclines forwards.

The snp is a point of the shoulder and neck, the sp is a point of the shoulder, and a connecting line of the snp point and the sp point is a shoulder line.

The 'province' means that the surplus part between the clothes and the human body surface is folded and sewed to form the curved surface state of the garment piece or eliminate the floating surplus of the garment piece, so as to increase the three-dimensional sense of the garment. The dart is a line which appears after a dart is kneaded, and is a place where the dart is disposed to ensure normal sewing of the clothes.

The point a is on the front dart line 11, the point B is at the intersection of the front shoulder line 13 and the front dart line 11, and the point C is at the intersection of the front waistline 14 and the front dart line 11. In this embodiment, BAC is the front dart line 11, and the stitching trace can be reduced by folding the dart line, so that the appearance of the garment is more beautiful.

In detail, the point A is the highest point of the chest, the forward leaning body tilts forward, the length of the line segment where the BAC is located is visually represented as being shortened, the point D is located on the front center line 15 and above the chest line 12, the DA connecting line is parallel to the chest line 12, and the suit is folded along the DA without deforming the whole suit, so that the type of the suit body is influenced.

Point E is located on the rear dash 21, and point F is located at the intersection of the rear waistline 22 and the rear dash 21. In this embodiment, the FE extending to the shoulder line 211 is the rear line 21, and the seam mark can be reduced by stretching at the line, so that the appearance of the garment is more beautiful.

In detail, point E is the highest point of the back, point G is on the back center line 23, the EG connecting line is parallel to the chest line 12, stretching along EG cannot cause the whole suit to deform, and therefore the type of the suit body is affected.

Specifically, the embodiment is described only with respect to the standard suit template, and in other embodiments, the fabric may be directly cut into the suitable front prototype 1 and the back prototype 2, so as to omit the cutting process and improve the production yield.

Further, the anteversion angle of the human body is measured, and the CC' length is determined based on the measured anteversion angle of the human body.

Further, the distance between the point C and the point C 'is the same as the distance between the point F and the point F'.

The corresponding relationship between the forward inclination angle and the width change of the front and rear sheets is shown in table 1:

front inclination angle (degree)	DD' folding volume (cm)	EE' stretch (cm)
			5	0.3	0.3
10	0.6	0.6
			15	0.9	0.9

TABLE 1

Further, when the forward inclination angle is 5 degrees, the length of CC' is 0.3cm.

Further, a body length parameter is measured, and the DD' length is determined based on the measured body length parameter.

Further, the distance between the point D and the point D 'is the same as the distance between the point G and the point G'.

The corresponding relationship between the forward inclination angle and the change in the forward-rearward length is shown in table 2:

front inclination angle (degree)	DD' fold yield (cm)	GG' stretch (cm)
			5	0.5	0.5
10	1.0	1.0
			15	1.5	1.5

TABLE 2

Tables 1 and 2 in this example are normal posture, 20 years old and 170cm tall anteverted body variables of adult men, and specific analysis is needed according to actual conditions relative to other body types.

Example 2

Referring to fig. 2, the present example provides a method for designing a suit pattern of a front piece modified in addition to example 1.

Specifically, in this embodiment, the prototype front sheet 1 and the prototype rear sheet 2 are further separated to form a new template front sheet 3, a new template side sheet 4, and a new template rear sheet 5. The sample plate side plate 4 can absorb the labor saved in the process of clothes making, so that the suit is more attractive and more attractive.

In detail, in order to visually recognize the difference between the posture of the forward leaning body and the normal human body as much as possible, in the human body model on the right side of fig. 2, the dotted line represents the forward leaning body posture, and the solid line represents the normal human body posture.

Folding the front sample plate 3 up and down and left and right; the template back piece 5 is stretched up and down, left and right, the specific principle is the same as that of the prototype front piece 1 and the prototype back piece 2, and the template side piece 4 is inclined forwards to adapt to the change of the template front piece 3 and the template back piece 5, and is shown as being inclined leftwards in figure 2.

In order to adapt the planar fabric to the three-dimensional shape of the human arm, the excessive part is usually eaten into the part to be sutured, and the part is called as an arm top.

Specifically, the classification according to the number of sleeve sheets can be divided into: one sleeve, two sleeves, three sleeves, etc. In this embodiment, the sleeve panels are divided into first sleeve panels 6 and second sleeve panels 7.

In the present embodiment, the first sleeve 6 is folded and tilted to the left in the plane; the second sleeve sheet 7 is stretched and also inclines leftwards in the plane, so that the sleeve adapts to a forward-leaning body, and the forward-leaning body sleeve is more beautiful and beautiful. It should be understood that the above examples are only for clarity of illustration and are not intended to limit the embodiments. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. And are neither required nor exhaustive of all embodiments. And obvious variations or modifications therefrom are within the scope of the invention.

Claims

1. A method for designing a front-inclined western-style clothes template is characterized by comprising the following steps:

s1, taking a point A on a prototype front piece (1), wherein the point A is on a front province line (11) and is positioned above a chest circumference line (12);

s2, taking a point B on the prototype front piece (1), wherein the point B is positioned on the front shoulder line (13) and between a snp point and an sp point;

s3, taking a point C on the prototype front piece (1), wherein the point C is positioned on the front waistline (14);

s4, taking a point D on the prototype front piece (1), wherein the point D is on the front central line (15) and is positioned above the chest line (12);

s5, connecting the BAC, cutting the prototype front piece (1) along the BAC, keeping the prototype front piece (1) on the left side still, and folding the prototype front piece (1) on the right side along the left-right direction to obtain points B ', A ' and C ' at the same time; the distances between point C and point C 'and between point a and point a' are the same; connecting DA, cutting the prototype front piece (1) along the DA extending to a chest dart line (16), keeping the lower prototype front piece (1) still, and folding the upper prototype front piece (1) along the up-down direction to obtain a point D ', connecting the point D ' A ', and enabling the DA to be parallel to the point D ' A ';

s6, extending to the chest dart line (16) along B ' A ' C ' and D ' A ' to be sewn to form an initial front piece;

s7, taking a point E on the prototype rear sheet (2), wherein the point E is positioned on a rear province line (21);

s8, taking a point F on the prototype rear sheet (2), wherein the point F is the intersection point of the rear waistline (22) and the rear province line (21);

s9, taking a point G on the prototype rear sheet (2), wherein the point G is positioned on the rear central line (23);

s10, connecting EF, extending to a shoulder line (211) along FE, cutting off and stretching along the left-right direction, and obtaining points E 'and F', wherein the distances between the points E 'and between the points F and F' are the same; connecting GE, extending and shearing to an armhole along a straight line where GE is located, stretching along the up-down direction, and obtaining points E 'and G', wherein the distances between the point E and the point E 'and the distances between the point G and the point G' are the same;

s11, extending to the position of the shoulder dart line (211) along the straight line of G 'E' and E 'F' and sewing to form an initial back sheet.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the measured forward rake angle of the human body, and the CC' length is determined based on the measured forward rake angle of the human body.

3. Western suit style design method of a forerake according to claim 2, characterized in that the distance between point C and point C 'is the same as the distance between point F and point F'.

4. The method of designing a western style clothes forerake according to claim 2, wherein the CC' length is 0.3cm at a 5 degree forward rake angle.

5. A method of designing a western style clothes forerake according to claim 1, wherein a body length parameter is measured, and DD' length is determined based on the measured body length parameter.

6. Western style copy design procedure of a forerake according to claim 4, characterised in that the distance between point D and point D 'is the same as the distance between point G and point G'.