CN102669864B - Cutting method of female suit pants prototype - Google Patents
Cutting method of female suit pants prototype Download PDFInfo
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- CN102669864B CN102669864B CN201210152292.1A CN201210152292A CN102669864B CN 102669864 B CN102669864 B CN 102669864B CN 201210152292 A CN201210152292 A CN 201210152292A CN 102669864 B CN102669864 B CN 102669864B
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- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 33
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 210000000689 upper leg Anatomy 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 206010053615 Thermal burn Diseases 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 210000001624 hip Anatomy 0.000 description 82
- 210000001217 buttock Anatomy 0.000 description 6
- 210000001981 hip bone Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 210000001015 abdomen Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000003484 anatomy Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000002640 perineum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention discloses a cutting method of a female suit pants prototype. The cutting method sequentially comprises the following steps of: step 1, measuring the outside length, the waistline, the hipline, the crotch depth and the hip thickness of a human body; step 2, determining the total crotch width of the female suit pants prototype, wherein the total crotch width is equal to [(hip thickness * 0.44) + 6.34] cm; step 3, determining the front crotch width and the rear crotch width of the female suit pants prototype, wherein the front crotch width is equal to [(total crotch width * 1/3) + 0.5] cm, and the rear crotch width is equal to [(total crotch width * 2/3) - 0.5] cm; step 4, determining a cutting curve of a pair of female suit pants; and step 5, cutting and sewing according to the cutting curve, wherein 'cm' is adopted as a measure unit for length values of the outside length, the waistline, the hipline, the crotch depth and the hip thickness. According to the cutting method disclosed by the invention, a structure relation and a motion relation between the crotch width and the human body of the pair of female suit pants can be accurately presented, and the cutting efficiency of the pair of female suit pants can be effectively increased.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to clothes making technology for making field, specifically refer to a kind of method of cutting out of female's Western-style trousers prototype.
Background technology
Various configuration item of clothing cuttings are generally based on dress model and development and change, dress model is to take physiological structure, motion function, range of movement and the clothing form of human body to require as theoretical foundation, by anthropological measuring, the interior limit value that obtains dissimilar people in addition mathematical statistics is obtained dissimilar tailoring reference dimension.The classification size that the reference dimension of dress model combines Human Height and build (number, type) obtains the full detail of different size, and it is the basic platform of the new and high technology mathematicization application such as garment production, teaching and computer thereof, exploitation.
The dimension information of female's Western-style trousers prototype mainly comprises that trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch are long, the size of hip depth and the part such as crotch is wide thereof.Before the present invention, both at home and abroad the wide general employing hip circumference of female's Western-style trousers crotch is calculated, as China Textiles Press be published in that publish in February, 2003, by the < < Britain classical clothes template > > of Vinnie Fred Aldrich work, adopted to be that 1.5/10 finished product hip circumference is calculated crotch loose.According to the principle of existing formula, female's Western-style trousers hip circumference size has determined the wide width of Western-style trousers crotch, the larger crotch of hip circumference wide wider, the less crotch of hip circumference is wide narrower.But in fact, the data of human body hip circumference are not only subject to the wide impact of human body crotch, are also subject to the impact of hipbone width, the different people of identical hip circumference is the wide bigger difference that exists of crotch when hip width is different.Particularly for the partially round build of those human buttock's shapes and partially flat build, the human body of same hip circumference yardstick, partially the hip width of round body type human body compared with little and crotch wide compared with greatly, the hip width of partially flat build human body is compared with large and crotch is wide less.Therefore, in fact hip circumference the is identical actual crotch of different human body is wide may be not identical, but by existing hip circumference, calculate female's Western-style trousers of the wide formula institute cutting of crotch, wide at same hip circumference yardstick in-leg is identical, thereby adopt existing hip circumference projectional technique to calculate, there is not fit problem in female's Western-style trousers prototype of institute's cutting.
Summary of the invention
The object of this invention is to provide a kind of method of cutting out that can accurately embody female's Western-style trousers prototype of structural relation and movement relation between the wide and human body of female's Western-style trousers crotch, the fit precision of female's Western-style trousers that the method cuts out is high, can effectively improve female's Western-style trousers cutting efficiency.
For achieving the above object, the method for cutting out of female's Western-style trousers prototype of the present invention, its special character is, it comprises the following steps successively:
The first, measure trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length, the hip depth of human body;
The second, determine that the total crotch of female's Western-style trousers prototype is wide, described total crotch is wide is hip depth * 0.44+6.34cm;
Three, determine before female's Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, described front crotch is wide be total crotch wide * 1/3+0.5cm, described seat is wide be total crotch wide * 2/3-0.5cm;
Four, determine the trimmed curve of female's Western-style trousers;
Five, according to described trimmed curve, carry out cutting, make;
Wherein, all to adopt cm be measurement unit for described trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length numerical value long, hip depth.
Further, while determining the trimmed curve of female's Western-style trousers in described the 4th step, determine respectively the front cut-parts of female's Western-style trousers and the trimmed curve of rear cut-parts, wherein,
While determining front cut-parts trimmed curve, along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth, as straight line, be defined as front trousers length line;
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line are defined as front trousers length fundamental line, and the distance of described front trousers length fundamental line and front trousers length line is trousers length;
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line are defined as front thigh line, and the distance of described front thigh line and front trousers length line is that the straight crotch of front cut-parts is long, and the straight crotch of described front cut-parts is long is the long difference long with front rise camber line of described straight crotch length+1cm(front rise)+1cm(loose measure value);
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line are defined as front middle-grade line, and the distance of described front middle-grade line and front trousers length line is trousers length * 1/2+5cm;
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line are defined as front hip circumference line, and the distance of described front hip circumference line and front trousers length line is the straight crotch of front cut-parts long * 2/3;
Before doing near cloth one side 2 ~ 3cm place, the vertical line of trousers length line is defined as abjugal suture straight line;
Make the parallel lines of abjugal suture straight line as front crotch straight line, the distance of front crotch straight line and abjugal suture straight line is human body hip circumference * 1/4+1cm(quantity of margin) the front cut-parts of-1cm(and rear cut-parts hip circumference difference); Described front crotch straight line and described front hip circumference line intersect at front hip circumference a little bigger, intersect at the wide basic point of front little crotch with described front thigh line;
From the wide basic point of front little crotch, on described front thigh line, to getting away from described abjugal suture rectilinear direction, be a bit the wide point of front little crotch, before controlling, the distance of the wide basic point of little crotch and the wide point of front little crotch is that front crotch is wide;
Before doing between front crotch straight line and abjugal suture straight line, the parallel lines of crotch straight line are front boiling hot trace, and the distance of front boiling hot trace and front crotch straight line is hip circumference * 1/8-3cm;
On front trousers length line, from the intersection point place of front trousers length line and front crotch straight line, to abjugal suture rectilinear direction 1 ~ 2cm place, determining is a bit front waistline central point; On front trousers length line, from front waistline central point, to abjugal suture rectilinear direction, getting any, to be defined as front waistline a little bigger, described front waistline a little bigger with the distance of front waistline central point be waistline 1/4+1cm-1cm+3.5cm;
Adopt smooth curve that front waistline central point, the wide point of a little bigger, the front little crotch of front hip circumference are taken advantage of a situation and connected into curve, as front crotch camber line;
Measure human foot mouth and enclose value, on front trousers length fundamental line, scalding trace and front trousers length fundamental line intersection point is in the past basic point, to abjugal suture rectilinear direction, get forward foot in a step mouth and enclose basic point, to get forward foot in a step mouth away from abjugal suture rectilinear direction, enclose wide point, and control described forward foot in a step mouth and enclose basic point and forward foot in a step mouth to enclose wide point be all enclose * 1/2-0.5cm of pin mouth with the distance of front boiling hot trace;
Adopting smooth curve that the wide point of front little crotch and forward foot in a step mouth are enclosed to wide point takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form front in-leg line;
Adopt that smooth curve is a little bigger by front waistline, the intersection point of front hip circumference line and abjugal suture straight line and forward foot in a step mouth enclose basic point and take advantage of a situation and be connected to form abjugal suture camber line;
While determining the trimmed curve of rear cut-parts, along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth, as straight line, be defined as rear trousers length line;
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line are defined as rear trousers length fundamental line, and the distance of described rear trousers length fundamental line and rear trousers length line is trousers length;
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line are defined as rear cross crotch line, and the distance of described rear cross crotch line and rear trousers length line is that the straight crotch of rear cut-parts is long, and the straight crotch of described rear cut-parts is long is the long difference long with back rise camber line of straight crotch length+1cm(back rise)+1.7cm(loose measure value);
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line are defined as rear middle crotch line, and the distance of described rear middle crotch line and rear trousers length line is trousers length * 1/2+5cm;
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line are defined as rear hipline, and described rear hipline and rear trousers length linear distance are the straight crotch of rear cut-parts long * 2/3;
After doing, the vertical line of trousers length line is defined as rear in-leg ground line, and described rear in-leg ground line and rear cross crotch line intersect at the wide point of seat;
On described rear cross crotch line, getting is a bit the wide basic point of seat, and the distance of the wide basic point of seat and the wide point of seat is that seat is wide;
From rear trousers length alignment, away from rear trousers length fundamental line, as parallel lines, be hind wing line, the distance of described hind wing line and described rear trousers length line is 2 ~ 3cm;
From the wide basic point of seat, make the vertical line of hind wing line as seat straight line ground line, seat straight line ground line and described hind wing line intersect at hind wing point, take hind wing point as basic point is to determining that away from rear lower gear seam ground line direction 3 ~ 5cm place any is rear waistline central point on hind wing line;
Waistline central point and the wide basic point of seat after straight line connects, gained line is seat straight line; Seat straight line and rear hipline meet at the large basic point of rear hip circumference;
After doing, the vertical line of trousers length line is as disjugal suture straight line, and the distance of controlling described disjugal suture straight line and the large basic point of rear hip circumference is the front cut-parts of hip circumference * 1/4+1cm(and rear cut-parts hip circumference difference)+1cm(loose measure value), disjugal suture straight line is in the side away from rear in-leg ground line of the large basic point of rear hip circumference;
The parallel lines of making disjugal suture straight line between seat straight line ground line and disjugal suture straight line are rear boiling hot trace, and described rear boiling hot trace and seat straight line ground line distance are hip circumference * 1/8-3.25cm;
On rear trousers length line, determine a bit a little bigger as rear waistline, described rear waistline is a little bigger is positioned at the same side of described inside seam ground line with described rear waistline central point, and control described rear waistline a little bigger with the distance of rear waistline central point be human body waistline * 1/4+1cm+1cm+3cm;
Adopt smooth curve that rear waistline central point, the large basic point of rear hip circumference, the wide point of seat are taken advantage of a situation and connected into curve, as seat camber line;
On rear trousers length fundamental line, scald trace and rear trousers length fundamental line intersection point is basic point later, in-leg ground line direction is got rear foot mouth and is enclosed basic point, to getting rear foot mouth away from rear in-leg ground line direction, encloses wide point backward, controls described rear foot mouth and encloses basic point and rear foot mouth to enclose wide point be all enclose * 1/2+0.5cm of pin mouth with the distance of rear boiling hot trace;
Adopting smooth curve that the wide point of seat and rear foot mouth are enclosed to basic point takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form rear in-leg line;
Adopt that smooth curve is a little bigger by rear waistline, disjugal suture straight line encloses wide point with intersection point and the rear foot mouth of rear hipline, formation disjugal suture camber line.
In the present invention, human body is respectively organized the method mensuration that data acquisition is recorded with somatometric position and method > > (GBT16160-2008) with < < clothes, trousers length (waistline is high): measured is upright, measures the vertical range from Xian Zhi ground, waist border on side with anthropometer; Waistline: measured is upright, eupnea, belly loosens, and between hipbone upper end and rib lower edge, the level of natural waist border line is enclosed length; Hip circumference: tested upright, the buttocks level of measuring at the most plentiful place of buttocks is enclosed length; Straight crotch is long: with anthropometer, measure from waist border line the vertical range to perineum point; Hip depth: buttocks is backward on the height of the most outstanding position, the horizontal linear distance of the forward and backward protuberance interdigit thickness direction of buttocks.
The method of cutting out of female's Western-style trousers prototype of the present invention, mathematical statistics and the human anatomy rule that scanning detects based on human body three-dimensional, according to the wide natural law directly related with hip depth of people's crotch, in conjunction with human buttock, the structural built-in function of hip, determined total crotch wide=hip depth * 0.44+6.34cm.The cutting of female's Western-style trousers prototype is normally divided into Western-style trousers cut-parts two parts of front cut-parts and rear cut-parts, during cutting before female's Western-style trousers prototype crotch wide account for total crotch wide 1/3 add 0.5cm, seat wide account for total crotch wide 2/3 subtract 0.5cm.
Because trailing flank on organization of human body is more bigger than leading flank crooked radian, thus the present invention when cutting female Western-style trousers, the waistline of rear cut-parts, hip circumference, pin mouth enclose equal length value and all adopt anter value to add 1cm to be used as front cut-parts and rear cut-parts hip circumference difference.
When definite women's dress Western-style trousers prototype structure curve, be preferably and first determine front trousers length line, rear trousers length line, because front trousers length line, rear trousers length line are respectively the structure curve (only having hind wing line to be positioned at rear trousers length line top) of Western-style trousers anter and rear panel topmost, other ground lines are all positioned at the same side of front trousers length line, rear trousers length line and are positioned at the below of front trousers length line, rear trousers length line.Secondly, need to determine abjugal suture straight line and rear in-leg ground line, because, one of main line that abjugal suture straight line is anter, other trimmed curve of anter is all positioned at its same side; Rear in-leg ground line is one of main line of rear panel, and other trimmed curve of rear panel is all positioned at its same side.
The hip depth of employing of the present invention and the wide direct correlation of crotch determines that crotch is wide, can guarantee the wide portion structure of crotch design (cutting) unicity, fit, solve and existingly by hip circumference size, determined that the technology of the wide size of crotch is existing to the overgrown problem of some special type.The precision of method cutting of the present invention is high, make female's Western-style trousers original shape of the various build human bodies that make more fit, can effectively improve tailoring efficiency, also for tailoring teaching, the relevant women's dress Western-style trousers of CAD of Garment/CAM original shape structural design and management provide a kind of basic theory and template.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the trimmed curve figure of cut-parts before a kind of female's Western-style trousers prototype.
Fig. 2 is the trimmed curve figure of cut-parts after a kind of female's Western-style trousers prototype.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments, the method for cutting out of female's Western-style trousers prototype of the present invention is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1
A method of cutting out for female's Western-style trousers prototype, comprises the following steps successively:
The first, measure certain medium-sized female body trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length, hip depth, that pin mouth encloses numerical value is as shown in table 1:
Table 1
| Trousers length | Waistline | Hip circumference | Straight crotch is long | Pin mouth encloses | Hip depth |
| 96cm | 68cm | 90cm | 24cm | 19cm | 22cm |
The second, determine that the total crotch of female's Western-style trousers prototype is wide, total crotch is wide=22cm * 0.44+6.34cm=16.02cm;
Three, determine before female's Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, wherein before crotch wide=16.02 * 1/3+0.5cm=5.84cm, seat is wide=16.02cm * 2/3-0.5cm=10.18cm;
Four, determine the trimmed curve of female's Western-style trousers, wherein,
As shown in Figure 1, while determining front cut-parts trimmed curve, from the leftover of bolt of cloth, enter 1 ~ 3cm place and as straight line, be defined as front trousers length line 1 along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth;
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line 1 are defined as front trousers length fundamental line 2, and front trousers length fundamental line 2 is trousers length 96cm with front trousers length line 1 distance;
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line 1 are defined as front thigh line 3, and front thigh line 3 is that the straight crotch of front cut-parts is long with front trousers length line 1 distance, the difference of long=straight crotch long 24cm+1cm(front rise long value of the straight crotch of front cut-parts and front rise camber line long value)+1cm(loose measure value)=26cm;
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line 1 are defined as front middle-grade line 4, and front middle-grade line 4 with front trousers length line 1 distance is: trousers length 96cm * 1/2+5cm=53cm;
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line 1 are defined as front hip circumference line 5, and front hip circumference line 5 with front trousers length line 1 distance is: the straight crotch long value of front cut-parts 26cm * 2/3=17.3cm;
Before selvedge enters 2cm place work, the vertical line of trousers length line 1 is defined as abjugal suture straight line 6;
Make the parallel lines of abjugal suture straight line 6 as front crotch straight line 7, the distance between abjugal suture straight line 6 and front crotch straight line 7 is human body hip circumference 90cm * 1/4+1cm(quantity of margin) the front cut-parts of-1cm(and rear cut-parts hip circumference difference)=22.5cm; Front crotch straight line 7 intersects at a little bigger A of front hip circumference, intersects at the wide basic point B of front little crotch with front thigh line 3 with front hip circumference line 5;
From the wide basic point B of front little crotch, on front thigh line 3, to getting away from abjugal suture straight line 6 directions, be a bit wide some C of front little crotch, the distance of the wide basic point B of front little crotch and wide some C of front little crotch is the wide value 5.84cm of front crotch;
Before doing between front crotch straight line 7 and abjugal suture straight line 6, the parallel lines of crotch straight line 7 are front boiling hot trace 8, and front boiling hot trace 8 is human body hip circumference 90cm * 1/8-3cm=8.25cm with front crotch straight line 7 distances;
On front trousers length line 1, from front trousers length line 1, to abjugal suture straight line 6 direction 2cm places, determine that with the intersection point place of front crotch straight line 7 any is front waistline central point D;
On front trousers length line 1, from front waistline central point D to abjugal suture straight line 6 to getting any, be defined as a little bigger Q of front waistline, the distance of a little bigger Q of front waistline and front waistline central point D is waistline 1/4+1cm-1cm+3.5cm=20.5cm;
Adopt smooth curve that front waistline central point D, a little bigger A of front hip circumference, wide some C of front little crotch are taken advantage of a situation and connect into curve, as front crotch camber line 9;
On front trousers length fundamental line 2, scalding in the past trace 8 is basic point with front trousers length fundamental line 2 intersection points, to abjugal suture straight line 6 directions, get forward foot in a step mouth and enclose basic point M, to getting forward foot in a step mouth away from abjugal suture straight line 6 directions, enclose wide some N, and control forward foot in a step mouth and enclose basic point M and forward foot in a step mouth to enclose wide some N be all the 1/2-0.5cm=9.0cm that pin mouth encloses 19cm with the distance of front boiling hot trace 8;
Adopt the front wide some C of little crotch of smooth curve connection and forward foot in a step mouth to enclose wide some N and form front in-leg line 10;
Before adopting smooth curve to connect, a little bigger Q of waistline, front hip circumference line 5 enclose basic point M with intersection point and the forward foot in a step mouth of abjugal suture straight line 6, form abjugal suture camber line 11;
As shown in Figure 2, while determining the trimmed curve of rear cut-parts, from the leftover of bolt of cloth, enter 4 ~ 5cm place and as straight line, be defined as rear trousers length line 21 along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth;
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line 21 are defined as trousers length fundamental line 22, and rear trousers length fundamental line 22 is trousers length 96cm with rear trousers length line 21 distances;
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line 21 are defined as rear cross crotch line 23; rear cross crotch line 23 is that the straight crotch of rear cut-parts is long with rear trousers length line 21 distances, the long difference long with back rise camber line of the long 24cm+1cm(back rise of the straight crotch of the straight crotch length=human body of rear cut-parts)+1.7cm(loose measure value)=26.7cm;
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line 21 are defined as rear middle crotch line 24, and rear middle crotch line 24 with rear trousers length line 21 distances is: trousers length 96cm * 1/2+5cm=53cm;
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line 21 are defined as rear hipline 25, and rear hipline 25 with rear trousers length line 21 distances is: the long 26.7cm * 2/3=17.8cm of the straight crotch of rear cut-parts;
After doing, the vertical line of trousers length line 21 is defined as rear in-leg ground line 26, and rear in-leg ground line 26 intersects at wide some E of seat with rear cross crotch line 23;
On rear cross crotch line 23, getting is a bit the wide basic point F of seat, and the distance of the wide basic point F of seat and wide some E of seat is the wide value 10.18cm of seat;
From rear trousers length line 21, to being hind wing line 27 away from trousers length fundamental line 22 directions as parallel lines, hind wing line 27 is 2.5cm with the distance of rear trousers length line 21;
The vertical line of making hind wing line 27 from the wide basic point F of seat is as seat straight line ground line 28, seat straight line ground line 28 intersects at hind wing point H with hind wing line 27, take hind wing point H as basic point is to determining that away from rear lower gear ground line 26 direction 4.5cm places any is rear waistline central point G on hind wing line 27;
Waistline central point G and the wide basic point F of seat after straight line connects, gained line is seat straight line 29; Seat straight line 29 meets at the large basic point I of rear hip circumference with rear hipline 25;
After the large basic point I of rear hip circumference does away from a side of rear in-leg ground line 26, the vertical line of trousers length line 21 is as disjugal suture straight line 30, and controls disjugal suture straight line 30 and with the distance of the large basic point I of rear hip circumference be: the front cut-parts of human body hip circumference 90cm * 1/4+1cm(and rear cut-parts hip circumference difference)+1cm(loose measure value)=24.5cm;
The parallel lines of making disjugal suture straight line 30 between rear front crotch straight line ground line 28 and disjugal suture straight line 30 are rear boiling hot trace 31, and rear boiling hot trace 31 is human body hip circumference 90cm * 1/8-3.25cm=8.0cm with seat straight line ground line distance;
On rear trousers length line 21, determine that any is as a little bigger J of rear waistline, the distance of a little bigger J of rear waistline and rear waistline central point G is waistline 68cm * 1/4+1cm+1cm+3cm=22cm;
Adopt smooth curve that rear waistline central point G, the large basic point I of rear hip circumference, wide some E of seat are taken advantage of a situation and connect into curve, as seat camber line 32;
On rear trousers length fundamental line 22, scald trace 31 is basic point with rear trousers length fundamental line 22 intersection points later, in-leg ground line 26 directions are got rear foot mouth and are enclosed basic point O, to getting rear foot mouth away from rear in-leg ground line 26 directions, enclose wide some P backward, and control rear foot mouth and enclose basic point O and rear foot mouth to enclose wide some P be all the 1/2+0.5cm=10cm that pin mouth encloses 19cm with the distance of rear boiling hot trace 31;
Adopting smooth curve that wide some E of seat and rear foot mouth are enclosed to basic point O takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form rear in-leg line 33;
Adopt smooth curve that the intersection point of a little bigger J of rear waistline, the rear hipline 25 of disjugal suture straight line 30 and rear foot mouth are enclosed to wide some P, form disjugal suture camber line 34.
Five, according to described trimmed curve, carry out cutting, make.
Embodiment 2
A method of cutting out for female's Western-style trousers prototype, comprises the following steps successively:
The first, measure certain build female body less than normal trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length, hip depth, that pin mouth encloses numerical value is as shown in table 2:
Table 2
| Trousers length | Waistline | Hip circumference | Straight crotch is long | Pin mouth encloses | Hip depth |
| 93.5cm | 60.5cm | 80.6cm | 22.5cm | 16cm | 18.3cm |
The second, determine that the total crotch of female's Western-style trousers prototype is wide, total crotch is wide=18.3cm * 0.44+6.34cm=14.39cm;
Three, determine before female's Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, wherein before crotch wide=14.39 cm * 1/3+0.5cm=5.30cm, seat is wide=14.39cm * 2/3-0.5cm=9.09cm;
Four, determine the trimmed curve of female's Western-style trousers, the concrete operations of this step are with embodiment 1, and just the data replacement such as the trousers length in the present embodiment 1, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch is long, pin mouth encloses, hip depth is table 2 data;
Five, according to described trimmed curve, carry out cutting, make.
Embodiment 3
A method of cutting out for female's Western-style trousers prototype, comprises the following steps successively:
The first, measure certain inclined to one side round body type female body trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length, hip depth, that pin mouth encloses numerical value is as shown in table 3:
Table 3
| Trousers length | Waistline | Hip circumference | Straight crotch is long | Pin mouth encloses | Hip depth |
| 94cm | 101cm | 105cm | 26.8cm? | 22cm | 27.8cm |
The second, determine that the total crotch of female's Western-style trousers prototype is wide, total crotch is wide=27.8cm * 0.44+6.34cm=18.57cm;
Three, determine before female's Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, wherein before crotch wide=18.57 cm * 1/3+0.5cm=6.70cm, seat is wide=18.57cm * 2/3-0.5cm=11.87cm;
Four, determine the trimmed curve of female's Western-style trousers, the concrete operations of this step are with embodiment 1, and just the data replacement such as the trousers length in the present embodiment 1, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch is long, pin mouth encloses, hip depth is table 3 data;
Five, according to described trimmed curve, carry out cutting, make.
Claims (2)
1. a method of cutting out for female's Western-style trousers prototype, is characterized in that, it comprises the following steps successively:
The first, measure trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length, the hip depth of human body;
The second, determine that the total crotch of female's Western-style trousers prototype is wide, described total crotch is wide is hip depth * 0.44+6.34cm;
Three, determine before female's Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, described front crotch is wide be total crotch wide * 1/3+0.5cm, described seat is wide be total crotch wide * 2/3-0.5cm;
Four, determine the trimmed curve of female's Western-style trousers;
Five, according to described trimmed curve, carry out cutting, make;
Wherein, all to adopt cm be measurement unit for described trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length numerical value long, hip depth.
2. the method for cutting out of female's Western-style trousers prototype according to claim 1, is characterized in that: while determining the trimmed curve of female's Western-style trousers in described the 4th step, determine respectively the front cut-parts of female's Western-style trousers and the trimmed curve of rear cut-parts, wherein,
While determining front cut-parts trimmed curve, along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth, as straight line, be defined as front trousers length line (1);
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line (1) are defined as front trousers length fundamental line (2), and described front trousers length fundamental line (2) is trousers length with the distance of front trousers length line (1);
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line (1) are defined as front thigh line (3), and described front thigh line (3) is that the straight crotch of front cut-parts is long with the distance of front trousers length line (1), and the straight crotch of described front cut-parts is long is described straight crotch length+1cm+1cm;
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line (1) are defined as front middle-grade line (4), and described front middle-grade line (4) is trousers length * 1/2+5cm with the distance of front trousers length line (1);
Before doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line (1) are defined as front hip circumference line (5), and described front hip circumference line (5) is the straight crotch of front cut-parts long * 2/3 with the distance of front trousers length line (1);
Before doing, the vertical line of trousers length line (1) is defined as abjugal suture straight line (6);
Make the parallel lines of abjugal suture straight line (6) as front crotch straight line (7), front crotch straight line (7) is hip circumference * 1/4+1cm-1cm with the distance of abjugal suture straight line (6); Described front crotch straight line (7) intersects at front hip circumference a little bigger (A), intersects at the wide basic point of front little crotch (B) with described front thigh line (3) with described front hip circumference line (5);
Upper at described front thigh line (3) from the wide basic point of front little crotch (B) is a bit the wide point of front little crotch (C) to getting away from described abjugal suture straight line (6) direction, and before controlling, the wide basic point of little crotch (B) is that front crotch is wide with the distance of the wide point of front little crotch (C);
Before doing between front crotch straight line (7) and abjugal suture straight line (6), the parallel lines of crotch straight line (7) are front boiling hot trace (8), and front boiling hot trace (8) is hip circumference * 1/8-3cm with the distance of front crotch straight line (7);
Upper at front trousers length line (1), from front trousers length line (1), to abjugal suture straight line (6) direction 1～2cm place, determine that with the intersection point place of front crotch straight line (7) any is front waistline central point (D);
On front trousers length line (1), from front waistline central point (D), to abjugal suture straight line (6) direction, get any and be defined as front waistline a little bigger (Q), described front waistline a little bigger (Q) is waistline * 1/4+1cm-1cm+3.5cm with the distance of front waistline central point (D);
Adopt smooth curve that front waistline central point (D), front hip circumference a little bigger (A), the wide point of front little crotch (C) are taken advantage of a situation and connected into curve, as front crotch camber line (9);
Measure human foot mouth and enclose value, on front trousers length fundamental line (2), scalding in the past trace (8) is basic point with the intersection point of front trousers length fundamental line (2), to abjugal suture straight line (6) direction, get forward foot in a step mouth and enclose basic point (M), to getting forward foot in a step mouth away from abjugal suture straight line (6) direction, enclose wide point (N), and control described forward foot in a step mouth and enclose basic point (M) and forward foot in a step mouth to enclose wide point (N) be all enclose * 1/2-0.5cm of pin mouth with the distance of front boiling hot trace (8);
Adopting smooth curve that the wide point of front little crotch (C) and forward foot in a step mouth are enclosed to wide point (N) takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form front in-leg line (10);
Adopting smooth curve that the intersection point of front waistline a little bigger (Q), front hip circumference line (5) and abjugal suture straight line (6) and forward foot in a step mouth are enclosed to basic point (M) takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form abjugal suture camber line (11);
While determining the trimmed curve of rear cut-parts, along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth, as straight line, be defined as rear trousers length line (21);
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line (21) are defined as rear trousers length fundamental line (22), and described rear trousers length fundamental line (22) is trousers length with the distance of rear trousers length line (21);
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line (21) are defined as rear cross crotch line (23), and described rear cross crotch line (23) is that the straight crotch of rear cut-parts is long with the distance of rear trousers length line (21), and the straight crotch of described rear cut-parts is long is straight crotch length+1cm+1.7cm;
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line (21) are defined as rear middle crotch line (24), and described rear middle crotch line (24) is trousers length * 1/2+5cm with the distance of rear trousers length line (21);
After doing, the parallel lines of trousers length line (21) are defined as rear hipline (25), and described rear hipline (25) is the straight crotch of rear cut-parts long * 2/3 with rear trousers length line (21) distance;
After doing, the vertical line of trousers length line (21) is defined as rear in-leg ground line (26), and described rear in-leg ground line (26) intersects at the wide point of seat (E) with rear cross crotch line (23);
On described rear cross crotch line (23), getting is a bit the wide basic point of seat (F), and the wide basic point of seat (F) is that seat is wide with the distance of the wide point of seat (E);
From rear trousers length line (21), to the parallel lines of making rear trousers length line (21) away from rear trousers length fundamental line (22) direction, be hind wing line (27), described hind wing line (27) is 2～3cm with the distance of described rear trousers length line (21);
From the wide basic point of seat (F), make the vertical line of hind wing line (27) as seat straight line ground line (28), seat straight line ground line (28) intersects at hind wing point (H) with described hind wing line (27), at hind wing line (27), above take hind wing point (H) as basic point is to determining that away from rear lower gear ground line (26) direction 3～5cm place any is rear waistline central point (G);
Waistline central point (G) and the wide basic point of seat (F) after straight line connects, gained line is seat straight line (29); Seat straight line (29) meets at the large basic point of rear hip circumference (I) with rear hipline (25);
After doing, the vertical line of trousers length line (21) is as disjugal suture straight line (30), and to control described disjugal suture straight line (30) be hip circumference * 1/4+1cm+1cm with the distance of the large basic point of rear hip circumference (I);
The parallel lines of making disjugal suture straight line (30) between seat straight line ground line (28) and disjugal suture straight line (30) are rear boiling hot trace (31), and described rear boiling hot trace (31) is hip circumference * 1/8-3.25cm with seat straight line ground line (28) distance;
Upper definite a bit as rear waistline a little bigger (J) at rear trousers length line (21), described rear waistline a little bigger (J) is waistline * 1/4+1cm+1cm+3cm with the distance of rear waistline central point (G);
Adopt smooth curve that rear waistline central point (G), the large basic point of rear hip circumference (I), the wide point of seat (E) are taken advantage of a situation and connected into curve, as seat camber line (32);
On rear trousers length fundamental line (22), scald trace (31) is basic point with rear trousers length fundamental line (22) intersection point later, in-leg ground line (26) direction is got rear foot mouth and is enclosed basic point (O), to getting rear foot mouth away from rear in-leg ground line (26) direction, encloses wide point (P) backward, controls described rear foot mouth and encloses basic point (O) and rear foot mouth to enclose wide point (P) be all enclose * 1/2+0.5cm of pin mouth with the distance of rear boiling hot trace (31);
Adopting smooth curve that the wide point of seat (E) and rear foot mouth are enclosed to basic point (O) takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form rear in-leg line (33);
Adopting smooth curve that the intersection point of rear waistline a little bigger (J), disjugal suture straight line (30) and rear hipline (25) and rear foot mouth are enclosed to wide point (P) takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form disjugal suture camber line (34).
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| CN103519470B (en) * | 2013-09-24 | 2015-04-08 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Manufacturing method for tightening leg openings of suit pants |
| CN106473291B (en) * | 2016-11-15 | 2019-01-22 | 江西服装学院 | The production method of male trousers and male trousers |
| JPWO2019194016A1 (en) * | 2018-04-06 | 2020-12-03 | 旭化成株式会社 | Pants |
| CN211558932U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-09-25 | 许宗保 | Golden proportion type panty model, panty |
| CN115211614B (en) * | 2021-04-15 | 2024-07-09 | 朱海娟 | Windproof cold-resistant warm trousers with high back waist and low front waist and cutting and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN113367415B (en) * | 2021-06-17 | 2023-01-06 | 徐先坤 | Female trousers prototype tailoring method |
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| US4114277A (en) * | 1976-08-12 | 1978-09-19 | Chalker Betty B | Method of fitting a garment |
| CN87103102A (en) * | 1987-04-22 | 1988-12-21 | 毛俊杰 | Trousers cutting, sewing new method |
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| CN101485499A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Trouser suit pattern as well as structure design skill and technique for trouser suit |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2004324035A (en) * | 2003-07-28 | 2004-11-18 | Konishi Fukuso:Kk | Cutting-out method for trousers |
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| US4114277A (en) * | 1976-08-12 | 1978-09-19 | Chalker Betty B | Method of fitting a garment |
| CN87103102A (en) * | 1987-04-22 | 1988-12-21 | 毛俊杰 | Trousers cutting, sewing new method |
| CN101352269A (en) * | 2008-03-14 | 2009-01-28 | 东华大学 | Trouser suit pattern-making method for fixing numbers of trousers midlines and locating the same as well as uses |
| CN101485499A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Trouser suit pattern as well as structure design skill and technique for trouser suit |
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