CN102669864A - Cutting method of female suit pants prototype - Google Patents
Cutting method of female suit pants prototype Download PDFInfo
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- CN102669864A CN102669864A CN2012101522921A CN201210152292A CN102669864A CN 102669864 A CN102669864 A CN 102669864A CN 2012101522921 A CN2012101522921 A CN 2012101522921A CN 201210152292 A CN201210152292 A CN 201210152292A CN 102669864 A CN102669864 A CN 102669864A
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- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 33
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 210000000689 upper leg Anatomy 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 206010053615 Thermal burn Diseases 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 210000001624 hip Anatomy 0.000 description 83
- 210000001217 buttock Anatomy 0.000 description 6
- 230000035876 healing Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 210000001015 abdomen Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000003484 anatomy Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000001981 hip bone Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000002640 perineum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention discloses a cutting method of a female suit pants prototype. The cutting method sequentially comprises the following steps of: step 1, measuring the outside length, the waistline, the hipline, the crotch depth and the hip thickness of a human body; step 2, determining the total crotch width of the female suit pants prototype, wherein the total crotch width is equal to [(hip thickness * 0.44) + 6.34] cm; step 3, determining the front crotch width and the rear crotch width of the female suit pants prototype, wherein the front crotch width is equal to [(total crotch width * 1/3) + 0.5] cm, and the rear crotch width is equal to [(total crotch width * 2/3) - 0.5] cm; step 4, determining a cutting curve of a pair of female suit pants; and step 5, cutting and sewing according to the cutting curve, wherein 'cm' is adopted as a measure unit for length values of the outside length, the waistline, the hipline, the crotch depth and the hip thickness. According to the cutting method disclosed by the invention, a structure relation and a motion relation between the crotch width and the human body of the pair of female suit pants can be accurately presented, and the cutting efficiency of the pair of female suit pants can be effectively increased.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to clothes manufacturing technology field, specifically be meant a kind of method of cutting out of women Western-style trousers prototype.
Background technology
Various configuration item of clothing cuttings are generally based on dress model and development and change; Dress model is that physiological structure, motion function, range of movement and the clothing form with human body require is theoretical foundation; Through anthropological measuring, the interior limit value that obtains dissimilar people mathematical statistics is in addition obtained dissimilar tailoring reference dimension.The classification size that the reference dimension of dress model combines human body height and build (number, type) obtains the full detail of different size, and it is that new and high technology mathematicizations such as garment production, teaching and computer thereof are used, the basic platform of exploitation.
The size of parts such as the dimension information of woman's Western-style trousers prototype comprises mainly that trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch are long, hip depth and crotch thereof are wide.Before the present invention; The wide general employing hip circumference of domestic and international women Western-style trousers crotch calculates, as China Textiles Press be published in that publish in February, 2003, by " the classical clothes template of Britain " of Vinnie Fred Aldrich work adopt to be that 1.5/10 finished product hip circumference is calculated crotch loose.According to the principle of existing formula, women Western-style trousers hip circumference size has determined the wide width of Western-style trousers crotch, and hip circumference wide wideer, the hip circumference of the big crotch little crotch of healing of healing is wide narrower.But in fact, the data of human body hip circumference not only receive the wide influence of human body crotch, also receive the influence of human body hip width, the different people of identical hip circumference hip width not the wide existence of crotch simultaneously than big difference.Particularly for those human buttock's shapes build and the flat partially build of circle partially, the human body of same hip circumference yardstick, partially the hip width of round body type human body is less and the wide hip width bigger, flat partially build human body of crotch is big and crotch is wide less.Therefore; In fact the actual crotch of different human body that hip circumference is identical is wide possibly to be inequality; But calculate the women Western-style trousers of the wide formula institute cutting of crotch by existing hip circumference; Wide at same hip circumference yardstick in-leg is identical, thereby adopts existing hip circumference projectional technique to calculate, and there is not fit problem in the women Western-style trousers prototype of institute's cutting.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of method of cutting out that can accurately embody the women Western-style trousers prototype of structural relation and movement relation between the wide and human body of women Western-style trousers crotch, the fit precision of the women Western-style trousers that this method cuts out is high, can effectively improve women Western-style trousers cutting efficient.
Be the realization above-mentioned purpose, the method for cutting out of the present invention woman Western-style trousers prototype, its special character is that it may further comprise the steps successively:
The first, measure trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, long, the hip depth of straight crotch of human body;
The second, confirm that the total crotch of women Western-style trousers prototype is wide, said total crotch is wide to be hip depth * 0.44+6.34cm;
Three, confirm before the women Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, said before crotch wide be total crotch wide * 1/3+0.5cm, said seat is wide be total crotch wide * 2/3-0.5cm;
Four, confirm the trimmed curve of women Western-style trousers;
Five, carry out cutting, make and get final product according to said trimmed curve;
Wherein, all to adopt cm be measurement unit for said trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length numerical value long, hip depth.
Further, when confirming the trimmed curve of women Western-style trousers in said the 4th step, confirm the trimmed curve of preceding cut-parts with the back cut-parts of women Western-style trousers respectively, wherein,
Before confirming during the cut-parts trimmed curve, trousers length line before confirming as as straight line along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth;
Trousers length fundamental line before the parallel lines of trousers length line are confirmed as before doing, the distance of said preceding trousers length fundamental line and preceding trousers length line is a trousers length;
Make the parallel lines of preceding trousers length line and confirm as preceding thigh line, the distance of said preceding thigh line and preceding trousers length line is that the straight crotch of preceding cut-parts is long, and the straight crotch length of said preceding cut-parts is said straight crotch length+1cm (difference of front rise length and front rise camber line length)+1cm (loose measure value);
Middle-grade line before the parallel lines of trousers length line are confirmed as before doing, said before the distance of middle-grade line and preceding trousers length line be trousers length * 1/2+5cm;
The parallel lines of trousers length line are confirmed as the front hip circumference line before doing, and the distance of said front hip circumference line and preceding trousers length line is the straight crotch of preceding cut-parts long * 2/3;
The vertical line of trousers length line is confirmed as the abjugal suture straight line before doing near cloth one side 2 ~ 3cm place;
Make the abjugal suture PAR as preceding crotch straight line, the distance of preceding crotch straight line and abjugal suture straight line is human body hip circumference * 1/4+1cm (quantity of margin)-1cm (preceding cut-parts and back cut-parts hip circumference difference); Before said crotch straight line and said front hip circumference line intersect at front hip circumference a little bigger, intersect at said preceding thigh line before the wide basic point of little crotch;
From the wide basic point of preceding little crotch before said on the thigh line to get away from said abjugal suture rectilinear direction a bit be before the wide point of little crotch, before the control the wide basic point of little crotch with before the distance of the wide point of little crotch be that preceding crotch is wide;
The crotch PAR is preceding boiling hot trace before between preceding crotch straight line and abjugal suture straight line, doing, and the distance of preceding boiling hot trace and preceding crotch straight line is hip circumference * 1/8-3cm;
On preceding trousers length line, confirming a bit from the intersection point place of preceding trousers length line and preceding crotch straight line to abjugal suture rectilinear direction 1 ~ 2cm place is preceding waistline central point; On preceding trousers length line, from preceding waistline central point to the abjugal suture rectilinear direction get any confirm as before waistline a little bigger, said before a little bigger distance of waistline with preceding waistline central point be waistline 1/4+1cm-1cm+3.5cm;
Adopt smooth curve that preceding waistline central point, the wide point of a little bigger, the preceding little crotch of front hip circumference are taken advantage of a situation and connected into curve, as preceding crotch camber line;
Measure human body pin mouth and enclose value; On preceding trousers length fundamental line; Scalding trace and preceding trousers length fundamental line intersection point in the past is basic point; Get forward foot in a step mouth to the abjugal suture rectilinear direction and enclose basic point, enclose wide point, and control said forward foot in a step mouth and enclose basic point and forward foot in a step mouth and enclose wide point and all enclose * 1/2-0.5cm for the pin mouth with the distance of preceding boiling hot trace to get forward foot in a step mouth away from the abjugal suture rectilinear direction;
Adopt smooth curve will before the wide point of little crotch and forward foot in a step mouth enclose wide point and take advantage of a situation and be connected to form preceding in-leg line;
Adopt that smooth curve is a little bigger with preceding waistline, the intersection point of front hip circumference line and abjugal suture straight line and forward foot in a step mouth enclose basic point and take advantage of a situation and be connected to form the abjugal suture camber line;
When confirming the trimmed curve of back cut-parts, confirm as back trousers length line as straight line along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line and confirm as back trousers length fundamental line, said back trousers length fundamental line is a trousers length with the distance of back trousers length line;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line and confirm as the rear cross crotch line, the distance of said rear cross crotch line and back trousers length line is that cut-parts straight crotch in back is long, and the straight crotch of said back cut-parts is long to be straight crotch length+1cm (the long difference long with the back rise camber line of back rise)+1.7cm (loose measure value);
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line and confirm as crotch line in the back, the crotch line is trousers length * 1/2+5cm with the distance of back trousers length line in the said back;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line and confirm as the back hipline, said back hipline is the straight crotch of back cut-parts long * 2/3 with back trousers length linear distance;
Make the vertical line of back trousers length line and confirm as back in-leg ground line, said back in-leg ground line and rear cross crotch line intersect at the wide point of seat;
On said rear cross crotch line, getting is the wide basic point of seat a bit, and the distance of wide basic point of seat and the wide point of seat is that seat is wide;
After back trousers length alignment away from back trousers length fundamental line as parallel lines is, stick up high line, sticking up high line after said is 2 ~ 3cm with the said distance of trousers length line afterwards;
The vertical line that after the wide basic point of seat is done, sticks up high line is as seat straight line ground line; Seat straight line ground line and said after stick up and stick up high point after high line intersects at, after stick up after sticking up on the high line high point for basic point to confirm away from lower gear seam ground line direction 3 ~ 5cm place, back a bit for after the waistline central point;
Straight line connects back waistline central point and the wide basic point of seat, and the gained line is the seat straight line; The seat straight line meets at the big basic point of back hip circumference with the back hipline;
The vertical line of making back trousers length line is as the disjugal suture straight line; And the distance of controlling said disjugal suture straight line and back hip circumference big basic point is hip circumference * 1/4+1cm (preceding cut-parts and back cut-parts hip circumference difference)+1cm (loose measure value), and the disjugal suture straight line is in the side away from back in-leg ground line of the big basic point of back hip circumference;
Between seat straight line ground line and disjugal suture straight line, make the disjugal suture PAR and scald trace for the back, said back scalds trace and seat straight line ground line distance is hip circumference * 1/8-3.25cm;
On the trousers length line of back, confirm a bit a little bigger as the back waistline; A little bigger and the said back of said back waistline waistline central point is positioned at the same side of said inside seam ground line, and to control a little bigger distance with back waistline central point of said back waistline be human body waistline * 1/4+1cm+1cm+3cm;
Adopt smooth curve that back waistline central point, the big basic point of back hip circumference, the wide point of seat are taken advantage of a situation and connected into curve, as the seat camber line;
On the trousers length fundamental line of back; Scalding trace later on is basic point with back trousers length fundamental line intersection point; In-leg ground line direction is got rear foot mouth and is enclosed basic point, encloses wide point to getting rear foot mouth away from back in-leg ground line direction backward, controls said rear foot mouth and encloses basic point and enclose wide point with rear foot mouth and all enclose * 1/2+0.5cm for the pin mouth with the distance of back boiling hot trace;
Adopting smooth curve that wide point of seat and rear foot mouth are enclosed basic point takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form in-leg line afterwards;
Adopt that smooth curve is will the back waistline a little bigger, the disjugal suture straight line encloses wide point with the intersection point and the rear foot mouth of back hipline, form the disjugal suture camber line.
Human body is respectively organized the method mensuration of The data " clothes are with somatometric position and method " (GBT16160-2008) record among the present invention; Trousers length (waistline is high): the measured is upright, measures the vertical range on line to the ground from the waist border on the side with anthropometer; Waistline: the measured is upright, eupnea, and belly loosens, and the level of natural waist border line is enclosed length between hipbone upper end and the rib lower edge; Hip circumference: tested upright, enclose length in the buttocks level that the most plentiful place of buttocks is measured; Straight crotch is long: the vertical range of measuring line to the perineum point from the waist border with anthropometer; Hip depth: on the height of the most outstanding backward position of buttocks, the horizontal linear distance of the forward and backward protuberance interdigit thickness direction of buttocks.
The method of cutting out of women Western-style trousers prototype of the present invention; Be based on mathematical statistics and human anatomy rule that human body three-dimensional scanning detects; According to the wide natural law directly related of people's crotch with hip depth; In conjunction with human buttock, the structural built-in function of hip, confirmed total crotch wide=hip depth * 0.44+6.34cm.Two parts of cut-parts and back cut-parts before the cutting of woman's Western-style trousers prototype normally is divided into the Western-style trousers cut-parts, during cutting before woman's Western-style trousers prototype crotch wide account for total crotch wide 1/3 add 0.5cm, seat wide account for total crotch wide 2/3 subtract 0.5cm.
Because trailing flank is more bigger than leading flank crooked radian on the organization of human body, thus the present invention when cutting woman Western-style trousers, the waistline of back cut-parts, hip circumference, pin mouth enclose the equal length value all adopt the anter value to add 1cm to be used as before cut-parts with after cut-parts hip circumference difference.
When definite women's dress Western-style trousers prototype structure curve; Be preferably and confirm preceding trousers length line, back trousers length line earlier; Because preceding trousers length line, back trousers length line are respectively the structure curve (stick up high line after having only and be positioned at trousers length line top, back) of Western-style trousers anter and back sheet topmost, other ground lines all be positioned at the same side of preceding trousers length line, back trousers length line and be positioned at before the trousers length line, after the below of trousers length line.Secondly, need to confirm abjugal suture straight line and back in-leg ground line, because the abjugal suture straight line is one of main line of anter, other trimmed curve of anter all is positioned at its same side; Back in-leg ground line is one of main line of back sheet, and other trimmed curve of back sheet all is positioned at its same side.
The hip depth of employing of the present invention and the wide direct correlation of crotch confirms that crotch is wide; Can guarantee the wide position of crotch structural design (cutting) unicity, fit, solve to have now and confirmed the technological existing of the wide size of crotch the overgrown problem of some special type through the hip circumference size.The precision of method cutting of the present invention is high; Make the women Western-style trousers original shape of the various build human bodies that make more fit; Can effectively improve tailoring efficient, also a kind of basic theory and template are provided for tailoring teaching, the relevant women's dress Western-style trousers of CAD of Garment/CAM original shape structural design and management.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is the trimmed curve figure of cut-parts before a kind of women Western-style trousers prototype.
Fig. 2 is the trimmed curve figure of cut-parts after a kind of women Western-style trousers prototype.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing and specific embodiment the method for cutting out of the present invention woman Western-style trousers prototype is done further explain.
Embodiment 1
A kind of method of cutting out of women Western-style trousers prototype may further comprise the steps successively:
The first, measure certain medium-sized female body trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length, hip depth, that the pin mouth encloses numerical value is as shown in table 1:
Table 1
| Trousers length | Waistline | Hip circumference | Straight crotch is long | The pin mouth encloses | Hip depth |
| 96cm | 68cm | 90cm | 24cm | 19cm | 22cm |
The second, confirm that the total crotch of women Western-style trousers prototype is wide, total crotch is wide=22cm * 0.44+6.34cm=16.02cm;
Three, confirm before the women Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, wherein before crotch wide=16.02 * 1/3+0.5cm=5.84cm, seat is wide=16.02cm * 2/3-0.5cm=10.18cm;
Four, confirm the trimmed curve of women Western-style trousers, wherein,
Shown in accompanying drawing 1, before confirming during the cut-parts trimmed curve, trousers length line 1 before the leftover of bolt of cloth enters 1 ~ 3cm place horizontal yarn direction is confirmed as as straight line along cloth;
Trousers length fundamental line 2 before the parallel lines of trousers length line 1 are confirmed as before doing, preceding trousers length fundamental line 2 is trousers length 96cm with preceding trousers length line 1 distance;
Thigh line 3 before the parallel lines of trousers length line 1 are confirmed as before the work, preceding thigh line 3 is that the straight crotch of preceding cut-parts is long with preceding trousers length line 1 distance, the straight crotch length of the preceding cut-parts=straight long 24cm+1cm of crotch (difference of front rise long value and front rise camber line long value)+1cm (loose measure value)=26cm;
Middle-grade line 4 before the parallel lines of trousers length line 1 are confirmed as before doing, preceding middle-grade line 4 with preceding trousers length line 1 distance is: trousers length 96cm * 1/2+5cm=53cm;
The parallel lines of trousers length line 1 are confirmed as front hip circumference line 5 before doing, and front hip circumference line 5 with preceding trousers length line 1 distance is: the straight crotch long value of preceding cut-parts 26cm * 2/3=17.3cm;
The vertical line of trousers length line 1 is confirmed as abjugal suture straight line 6 before selvedge advances 2cm place work;
The parallel lines of making abjugal suture straight line 6 are as preceding crotch straight line 7, and the distance between abjugal suture straight line 6 and the preceding crotch straight line 7 is human body hip circumference 90cm * 1/4+1cm (quantity of margin)-1cm (preceding cut-parts and back cut-parts hip circumference difference)=22.5cm; Before crotch straight line 7 intersect at a little bigger A of front hip circumference with front hip circumference line 5, intersect at preceding thigh line 3 before the wide basic point B of little crotch;
From the wide basic point B of preceding little crotch on the preceding thigh line 3 to get away from abjugal suture straight line 6 directions a bit be before wide some C of little crotch, the wide basic point B of preceding little crotch with before the distance of wide some C of little crotch be the wide value 5.84cm of preceding crotch;
The parallel lines of crotch straight line 7 are preceding boiling hot trace 8 before between preceding crotch straight line 7 and abjugal suture straight line 6, doing, and preceding boiling hot trace 8 is human body hip circumference 90cm * 1/8-3cm=8.25cm with preceding crotch straight line 7 distances;
On preceding trousers length line 1, definite to abjugal suture straight line 6 direction 2cm places with the intersection point place of preceding crotch straight line 7 from preceding trousers length line 1 is preceding waistline central point D a bit;
On preceding trousers length line 1, from preceding waistline central point D to abjugal suture straight line 6 to get any confirm as before a little bigger Q of waistline, the distance of a little bigger Q of preceding waistline and preceding waistline central point D is waistline 1/4+1cm-1cm+3.5cm=20.5cm;
Adopt smooth curve that preceding waistline central point D, a little bigger A of front hip circumference, wide some C of preceding little crotch are taken advantage of a situation and connect into curve, as preceding crotch camber line 9;
On preceding trousers length fundamental line 2; Scalding trace 8 in the past is basic point with preceding trousers length fundamental line 2 intersection points; Get forward foot in a step mouth to abjugal suture straight line 6 directions and enclose basic point M, enclose wide some N, and control forward foot in a step mouth encloses basic point M and forward foot in a step mouth encloses wide some N all encloses 19cm for the pin mouth with the distance of preceding boiling hot trace 8 1/2-0.5cm=9.0cm to getting forward foot in a step mouth away from abjugal suture straight line 6 directions;
Wide some C of little crotch encloses wide some N with forward foot in a step mouth and forms preceding in-leg line 10 before adopting smooth curve to connect;
The a little bigger Q of waistline, front hip circumference line 5 enclose basic point M with the intersection point and the forward foot in a step mouth of abjugal suture straight line 6 before adopting smooth curve to connect, and form abjugal suture camber line 11;
Shown in accompanying drawing 2, when confirming the trimmed curve of back cut-parts, enter 4 ~ 5cm place from the leftover of bolt of cloth and confirm as back trousers length line 21 as straight line along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line 21 and confirm as trousers length fundamental line 22, back trousers length fundamental line 22 is trousers length 96cm with back trousers length line 21 distances;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line 21 and confirm as rear cross crotch line 23; Rear cross crotch line 23 is that cut-parts straight crotch in back is long with back trousers length line 21 distances, the long 24cm+1cm of the back cut-parts straight crotch of straight crotch length=human body (the long difference long with the back rise camber line of back rise)+1.7cm (loose measure value)=26.7cm;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line 21 and confirm as crotch line 24 in the back, crotch line 24 with back trousers length line 21 distances is in the back: trousers length 96cm * 1/2+5cm=53cm;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line 21 and confirm as back hipline 25, back hipline 25 with back trousers length line 21 distances is: the long 26.7cm * 2/3=17.8cm of the back straight crotch of cut-parts;
Make the vertical line of back trousers length line 21 and confirm as back in-leg ground line 26, back in-leg ground line 26 intersects at wide some E of seat with rear cross crotch line 23;
On rear cross crotch line 23, getting is the wide basic point F of seat a bit, and the distance of wide basic point F of seat and wide some E of seat is the wide value 10.18cm of seat;
The vertical line that after the wide basic point F of seat does, sticks up high line 27 is as seat straight line ground line 28; Seat straight line ground line 28 with after stick up and stick up high some H after high line 27 intersects at, after to stick up high some H after sticking up on the high line 27 be basic point to confirm away from back lower gear ground line 26 direction 4.5cm places a bit for after waistline central point G;
Straight line connects back waistline central point G and the wide basic point F of seat, and the gained line is a seat straight line 29; Seat straight line 29 meets at the big basic point I of back hip circumference with back hipline 25;
The vertical line that hip circumference big basic point I makes back trousers length line 21 away from a side of back in-leg ground line 26 in the back is as disjugal suture straight line 30, and the distance of control disjugal suture straight line 30 and the big basic point I of back hip circumference is: human body hip circumference 90cm * 1/4+1cm (preceding cut-parts and back cut-parts hip circumference difference)+1cm (loose measure value)=24.5cm;
The parallel lines of before the back, making disjugal suture straight line 30 between crotch straight line ground line 28 and the disjugal suture straight line 30 scald trace 31 for the back, and it is human body hip circumference 90cm * 1/8-3.25cm=8.0cm with seat straight line ground line distance that trace 31 is scalded in the back;
On back trousers length line 21, confirm a bit a little bigger J of conduct back waistline, a little bigger J of back waistline is waistline 68cm * 1/4+1cm+1cm+3cm=22cm with the distance of back waistline central point G;
Adopt smooth curve that back waistline central point G, the big basic point I of back hip circumference, wide some E of seat are taken advantage of a situation and connect into curve, as seat camber line 32;
On back trousers length fundamental line 22; Scalding trace 31 later on is basic point with back trousers length fundamental line 22 intersection points; In-leg ground line 26 directions are got rear foot mouth and are enclosed basic point O, enclose wide some P to getting rear foot mouth away from back in-leg ground line 26 directions backward, and control rear foot mouth encloses basic point O and encloses wide some P all encloses 19cm for the pin mouth with the distance of afterwards boiling hot trace 31 1/2+0.5cm=10cm with rear foot mouth;
Adopting smooth curve that wide some E of seat and rear foot mouth are enclosed basic point O takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form in-leg line 33 afterwards;
Adopt smooth curve that the intersection point and the rear foot mouth of a little bigger J of back waistline, disjugal suture straight line 30 back hiplines 25 are enclosed wide some P, form disjugal suture camber line 34.
Five, carry out cutting, make and get final product according to said trimmed curve.
Embodiment 2
A kind of method of cutting out of women Western-style trousers prototype may further comprise the steps successively:
The first, measure certain build female body less than normal trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length, hip depth, that the pin mouth encloses numerical value is as shown in table 2:
Table 2
| Trousers length | Waistline | Hip circumference | Straight crotch is long | The pin mouth encloses | Hip depth |
| 93.5cm | 60.5cm | 80.6cm | 22.5cm | 16cm | 18.3cm |
The second, confirm that the total crotch of women Western-style trousers prototype is wide, total crotch is wide=18.3cm * 0.44+6.34cm=14.39cm;
Three, confirm before the women Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, wherein before crotch wide=14.39 cm * 1/3+0.5cm=5.30cm, seat is wide=14.39cm * 2/3-0.5cm=9.09cm;
Four, confirm the trimmed curve of women Western-style trousers, the concrete operations of this step are with embodiment 1, and just that the trousers length in the present embodiment 1, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch is long, data such as the pin mouth encloses, hip depth replace with table 2 data;
Five, carry out cutting, make and get final product according to said trimmed curve.
Embodiment 3
A kind of method of cutting out of women Western-style trousers prototype may further comprise the steps successively:
The first, measure certain inclined to one side round body type female body trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length, hip depth, that the pin mouth encloses numerical value is as shown in table 3:
Table 3
| Trousers length | Waistline | Hip circumference | Straight crotch is long | The pin mouth encloses | Hip depth |
| 94cm | 101cm | 105cm | 26.8cm? | 22cm | 27.8cm |
The second, confirm that the total crotch of women Western-style trousers prototype is wide, total crotch is wide=27.8cm * 0.44+6.34cm=18.57cm;
Three, confirm before the women Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, wherein before crotch wide=18.57 cm * 1/3+0.5cm=6.70cm, seat is wide=18.57cm * 2/3-0.5cm=11.87cm;
Four, confirm the trimmed curve of women Western-style trousers, the concrete operations of this step are with embodiment 1, and just that the trousers length in the present embodiment 1, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch is long, data such as the pin mouth encloses, hip depth replace with table 3 data;
Five, carry out cutting, make and get final product according to said trimmed curve.
Claims (2)
1. the method for cutting out of a women Western-style trousers prototype is characterized in that, it may further comprise the steps successively:
The first, measure trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, long, the hip depth of straight crotch of human body;
The second, confirm that the total crotch of women Western-style trousers prototype is wide, said total crotch is wide to be hip depth * 0.44+6.34cm;
Three, confirm before the women Western-style trousers prototype that crotch is wide and seat is wide, said before crotch wide be total crotch wide * 1/3+0.5cm, said seat is wide be total crotch wide * 2/3-0.5cm;
Four, confirm the trimmed curve of women Western-style trousers;
Five, carry out cutting, make and get final product according to said trimmed curve;
Wherein, all to adopt cm be measurement unit for said trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, straight crotch length numerical value long, hip depth.
2. according to the method for cutting out of the said women Western-style trousers prototype of claim 1, it is characterized in that: when confirming the trimmed curve of women Western-style trousers in said the 4th step, confirm the trimmed curve of preceding cut-parts with the back cut-parts of women Western-style trousers respectively, wherein,
Before confirming during the cut-parts trimmed curve, trousers length line (1) before confirming as as straight line along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth;
Trousers length fundamental line (2) before the parallel lines of trousers length line (1) are confirmed as before doing, said preceding trousers length fundamental line (2) is a trousers length with the distance of preceding trousers length line (1);
Make the parallel lines of preceding trousers length line (1) and confirm as preceding thigh line (3), said preceding thigh line (3) is that the straight crotch of preceding cut-parts is long with the distance of preceding trousers length line (1), and the straight crotch of said preceding cut-parts is long to be said straight crotch length+1cm+1cm;
Middle-grade line (4) before the parallel lines of trousers length line (1) are confirmed as before doing, said before the distance of middle-grade line (4) and preceding trousers length line (1) be trousers length * 1/2+5cm;
The parallel lines of trousers length line (1) are confirmed as front hip circumference line (5) before doing, and said front hip circumference line (5) is the straight crotch of preceding cut-parts long * 2/3 with the distance of preceding trousers length line (1);
The vertical line of trousers length line (1) is confirmed as abjugal suture straight line (6) before doing;
The parallel lines of making abjugal suture straight line (6) are as preceding crotch straight line (7), and preceding crotch straight line (7) is hip circumference * 1/4+1cm-1cm with the distance of abjugal suture straight line (6); Before said crotch straight line (7) and said front hip circumference line (5) intersect at front hip circumference a little bigger (A), with said before thigh line (3) intersect at before the wide basic point of little crotch (B);
From the wide basic point of preceding little crotch (B) thigh line (3) before said go up to get away from said abjugal suture straight line (6) direction a bit be before the wide point of little crotch (C), before the control the wide basic point of little crotch (B) with before the distance of the wide point of little crotch (C) be that preceding crotch is wide;
The parallel lines of crotch straight line (7) are preceding boiling hot trace (8) before between preceding crotch straight line (7) and abjugal suture straight line (6), doing, and preceding boiling hot trace (8) is hip circumference * 1/8-3cm with the distance of preceding crotch straight line (7);
On preceding trousers length line (1), definite to abjugal suture straight line (6) direction 1 ~ 2cm place with the intersection point place of preceding crotch straight line (7) from preceding trousers length line (1) is preceding waistline central point (D) a bit;
On preceding trousers length line (1), from preceding waistline central point (D) to abjugal suture straight line (6) direction get any confirm as before waistline a little bigger (Q), said before the distance of waistline a little bigger (Q) and preceding waistline central point (D) be waistline 1/4+1cm-1cm+3.5cm;
Adopt smooth curve that preceding waistline central point (D), front hip circumference a little bigger (A), the wide point of preceding little crotch (C) are taken advantage of a situation and connected into curve, as preceding crotch camber line (9);
Measure human body pin mouth and enclose value; On preceding trousers length fundamental line (2); The intersection point that scalded trace (8) and preceding trousers length fundamental line (2) in the past is a basic point; Get forward foot in a step mouth to abjugal suture straight line (6) direction and enclose basic point (M), enclose wide point (N), and control said forward foot in a step mouth and enclose basic point (M) and forward foot in a step mouth and enclose wide point (N) and all enclose * 1/2-0.5cm for the pin mouth with the distance of preceding boiling hot trace (8) to getting forward foot in a step mouth away from abjugal suture straight line (6) direction;
Adopt smooth curve will before the wide point of little crotch (C) and forward foot in a step mouth enclose wide point (N) and take advantage of a situation and be connected to form preceding in-leg line (10);
Adopting smooth curve that the intersection point of preceding waistline a little bigger (Q), front hip circumference line (5) and abjugal suture straight line (6) and forward foot in a step mouth are enclosed basic point (M) takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form abjugal suture camber line (11);
When confirming the trimmed curve of back cut-parts, confirm as back trousers length line (21) as straight line along the horizontal yarn direction of cloth;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line (21) and confirm as back trousers length fundamental line (22), said back trousers length fundamental line (22) is a trousers length with the distance of back trousers length line (21);
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line (21) and confirm as rear cross crotch line (23), the distance of said rear cross crotch line (23) and back trousers length line (21) is that cut-parts straight crotch in back is long, and the straight crotch of said back cut-parts is long to be straight crotch length+1cm+1.7cm;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line (21) and confirm as crotch line (24) in the back, crotch line (24) is trousers length * 1/2+5cm with the distance of back trousers length line (21) in the said back;
Make the parallel lines of back trousers length line (21) and confirm as back hipline (25), said back hipline (25) is the straight crotch of back cut-parts long * 2/3 with back trousers length line (21) distance;
Make the vertical line of back trousers length line (21) and confirm as back in-leg ground line (26), said back in-leg ground line (26) intersects at the wide point of seat (E) with rear cross crotch line (23);
On said rear cross crotch line (23), getting a bit is the wide basic point of seat (F), and the wide basic point of seat (F) is that seat is wide with the distance of the wide point of seat (E);
The distance of from back trousers length line (21) sticks up high line (27), be said after away from back trousers length fundamental line (22) direction as parallel lines being after, sticking up high line (27) and said back trousers length line (21) is 2 ~ 3cm;
The vertical line that after the wide basic point of seat (F) is done, sticks up high line (27) is as seat straight line ground line (28); Seat straight line ground line (28) with said after stick up and stick up high point (H) after high line (27) intersects at, after stick up stick up after high line (27) is gone up high point (H) for basic point to confirm away from lower gear seam ground line (26) direction 3 ~ 5cm place, back a bit for after waistline central point (G);
Straight line connects back waistline central point (G) and the wide basic point of seat (F), and the gained line is seat straight line (29); Seat straight line (29) meets at the back big basic point of hip circumference (I) with back hipline (25);
The vertical line of making back trousers length line (21) is as disjugal suture straight line (30), and the distance of controlling said disjugal suture straight line (30) and the back big basic point of hip circumference (I) is hip circumference * 1/4+1cm+1cm;
The parallel lines of between seat straight line ground line (28) and disjugal suture straight line (30), making disjugal suture straight line (30) scald trace (31) for the back, and it is hip circumference * 1/8-3.25cm with seat straight line ground line (28) distance that trace (31) is scalded in said back;
The distance of waistline a little bigger (J) and back waistline central point (G) is waistline * 1/4+1cm+1cm+3cm after back trousers length line (21) is gone up definite some conduct back waistline a little bigger (J), be said;
Adopt smooth curve that back waistline central point (G), the back big basic point of hip circumference (I), the wide point of seat (E) are taken advantage of a situation and connected into curve, as seat camber line (32);
On back trousers length fundamental line (22); Scalding trace (31) later on is basic point with back trousers length fundamental line (22) intersection point; In-leg ground line (26) direction is got rear foot mouth and is enclosed basic point (O), encloses wide point (P) to getting rear foot mouth away from back in-leg ground line (26) direction backward, controls said rear foot mouth and encloses basic point (O) and enclose wide point (P) with rear foot mouth and all enclose * 1/2+0.5cm for the pin mouth with the distance of back boiling hot trace (31);
Adopting smooth curve that wide point of seat (E) and rear foot mouth are enclosed basic point (O) takes advantage of a situation and is connected to form in-leg line (33) afterwards;
Adopt smooth curve back waistline a little bigger (J), disjugal suture straight line (30) to be enclosed wide point (P) with the intersection point and the rear foot mouth of back hipline (25), formation disjugal suture camber line (34).
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| CN103519470A (en) * | 2013-09-24 | 2014-01-22 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Manufacturing method for tightening leg openings of suit pants |
| CN106473291A (en) * | 2016-11-15 | 2017-03-08 | 江西服装学院 | The manufacture method of male trousers and male trousers |
| CN110710751A (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-01-21 | 许宗保 | Golden proportion type female trousers sample plate, female trousers and plate manufacturing method |
| CN111918576A (en) * | 2018-04-06 | 2020-11-10 | 旭化成株式会社 | Trousers |
| CN113367415A (en) * | 2021-06-17 | 2021-09-10 | 徐先坤 | Female trousers prototype tailoring method |
| CN115211614A (en) * | 2021-04-15 | 2022-10-21 | 朱海娟 | Windproof and cold-resistant warm pants with high back waist and low front waist and cutting and manufacturing method thereof |
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| CN103519470A (en) * | 2013-09-24 | 2014-01-22 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Manufacturing method for tightening leg openings of suit pants |
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| CN111918576A (en) * | 2018-04-06 | 2020-11-10 | 旭化成株式会社 | Trousers |
| CN110710751A (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-01-21 | 许宗保 | Golden proportion type female trousers sample plate, female trousers and plate manufacturing method |
| CN110710751B (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2024-01-02 | 许宗保 | Golden ratio type female trousers sample plate, female trousers and plate making method |
| CN115211614A (en) * | 2021-04-15 | 2022-10-21 | 朱海娟 | Windproof and cold-resistant warm pants with high back waist and low front waist and cutting and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN113367415A (en) * | 2021-06-17 | 2021-09-10 | 徐先坤 | Female trousers prototype tailoring method |
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