CN111918576A

CN111918576A - Trousers

Info

Publication number: CN111918576A
Application number: CN201980019998.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 吉泽知佐; 张静风
Original assignee: Asahi Kasei Corp
Current assignee: Asahi Kasei Corp
Priority date: 2018-04-06
Filing date: 2019-03-25
Publication date: 2020-11-10
Also published as: JP2022111243A; JPWO2019194016A1; WO2019194016A1

Abstract

One aspect of the present invention provides pants and a method of manufacturing the same, comprising: the present invention can achieve both of the exercise functionality during normal operation and the preferable profile with reduced excess wrinkles, puckers, overlapping wrinkles, and tightening wrinkles, and can be applied to a wide range of uses, particularly business suits and formal uses, and is also useful for providing ready-made clothes. One aspect of the present invention provides pants that satisfy the following conditions (a) to (f): (a) the sum of the length YF (unit: cm) of the front crotch enclosing line comprising the front waistband width XF (unit: cm) and the length YB (unit: cm) of the rear crotch enclosing line comprising the rear waistband width XB (unit: cm) is 56 cm-64 cm; (b) the sewing thread of the back crotch enclosing thread is clamped, and an angle theta formed by the mesh thread of the warp knitting tissue of the cloth of the back left trouser piece and the mesh thread of the warp knitting tissue of the cloth of the back right trouser piece is more than 16 degrees and less than 34 degrees; (c) more than or equal to 0.59 and less than or equal to 0.68 of YF-XF)/(YB-XB; (d) XF is more than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 5, and XB is more than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 5; (e) YF-XF is more than or equal to 17 and less than or equal to 26; (f) YB-XB is more than or equal to 29 and less than or equal to 38.

Description

Trousers

Technical Field

The present invention relates to pants and a method for manufacturing the same, and more particularly, to pants advantageous as a garment for adult women of standard body type and a method for manufacturing the same.

Background

Nowadays, the demand for style of pants is increasing regardless of sex, age, and season. The uses of pants are expanding from special uses such as sports and homework to leisure uses such as jeans and twill pants, and further expanding to students, business uniforms, business suits, formal uses, and the like, and the types of the pants are various.

The way to improve the sports functionality of pants by styling ways is usually to increase the amount of hip, abdomen, leg circumference allowance. For example, the crotch line is lengthened, the crotch width is widened, and the thigh circumferential diameter is lengthened (non-patent document 1).

However, such a margin sometimes causes deterioration of the profile of the trousers at rest (e.g., hypertrophy or generation of excessive wrinkles). That is, it is difficult to achieve both a margin for good motion functionality during operation and a good contour.

As a model relating to pants that are easy to lift their legs and look stylish, a method of manufacturing pants has been proposed in which attention is paid to the width of front and rear pants pieces from the thigh to the knee, the side portions, the sewing position of the inner thigh, the position of the mountain fold line of the front pants pieces, the width of the front and rear pants pieces of the lower leg, and the front and rear lengths of the pants (patent document 1). In addition, a pair of pants is proposed: the pants have excellent athletic performance and good appearance in a posture (basic posture) in which both legs are opened to be wide at the shoulders, the pants are bent forward while including a switching line in the longitudinal direction of the pants pieces, and the pants are operated from the basic posture (patent document 2).

Documents of the prior art

Non-patent document

Non-patent document 1: cultural fashion system revised edition, dress sculpt lecture 2 skirt, trousers P134 (cultural clothing institute compiling cultural publishing office)

Patent document

Patent document 1: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 2015-034353

Patent document 2: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2014-029041

Disclosure of Invention

Problems to be solved by the invention

However, the method described in patent document 1 has a certain effect on the contour of the leg of the thigh and the motion functionality when lifting the leg, but does not sufficiently consider the motion functionality around the hip. There are also problems such as the following: the user feels tight when performing an operation starting from the hip such as squatting or sitting on a chair. In addition, in the method described in patent document 2, since the switching line of the pants is conspicuous, there is a problem from the viewpoint of the profile and design in order to apply the method to business suits and formal use.

An object of the present invention is to solve the above problems, and to provide pants and a method for manufacturing the same, the pants comprising: the pants and the method for manufacturing the same can achieve both of the exercise functionality in the general movements of walking, squatting, leg raising, etc., and the preferable contour for reducing the extra wrinkles, puckering, overlapped wrinkles, and tightened wrinkles, can be applied to a wide range of uses, and are particularly suitable for business suits and formal uses, and are also useful for providing ready-made clothes, and the pants and the method for manufacturing the same are particularly suitable for ready-made clothes worn by adult women of standard body types.

Means for solving the problems

In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors repeatedly performed evaluation of contour and motion functionality in both cases (1) of collecting lower limb measurement data by multipoint measurement and 3D body scan, (2) trial production of a pants pattern, (3) pants sewing, and (4) wearing a sewn product in a standing posture and during motion. As a result, it has been found that in order to achieve both the motion functionality and the contour of the pants, it is important to balance the front crotch length and the rear crotch length, the total length and ratio thereof, and the angle formed by the mesh lines of the warp knitting structures of the fabric of the rear left and right pants panels across the center line of the rear pants panel (i.e., the sewing line of the rear crotch line).

Namely, the present invention is as follows.

[1] A pair of trousers is characterized in that,

the pants satisfy the following conditions (a) to (f):

(a) the sum of the length YF (unit: cm) of the front crotch enclosing line comprising the front waistband width XF (unit: cm) and the length YB (unit: cm) of the rear crotch enclosing line comprising the rear waistband width XB (unit: cm) is 56 cm-64 cm;

(b) the sewing thread of the back crotch enclosing thread is clamped, and an angle theta formed by the mesh thread of the warp knitting tissue of the cloth of the back left trouser piece and the mesh thread of the warp knitting tissue of the cloth of the back right trouser piece is more than 16 degrees and less than 34 degrees;

(c)0.59≤(YF-XF)/(YB-XB)≤0.68；

(d) XF is more than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 5, and XB is more than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 5;

(e)17≤YF-XF≤26；

(f)29≤YB-XB≤38。

[2] the pants according to claim 1 satisfy the following conditions (g) to (j):

(g)0.60≤(YF-XF)/(YB-XB)≤0.66；

(h) XF is more than or equal to 3 and less than or equal to 5, and XB is more than or equal to 3 and less than or equal to 5;

(i)18≤YF-XF≤23；

(j)30≤YB-XB≤35。

[3] according to the pants according to claim 1 or 2, the stretchable material is disposed in the waist portion.

[4] The pants according to claim 3, wherein the stretchable material is disposed in 20% to 80% of the entire circumferential length of the waist portion in the trunk direction, and the stretchable material is not disposed in the front portion.

[5] The pants according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the front pants panel is provided with side pockets that are formed by side cloths as a part of the front pants panel.

[6] The trousers according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the trousers are intended for adult women.

[7] A method for producing pants, comprising a step of setting the pants style of any one of claims 1 to 6 as a main pants style and setting out the pants style.

ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION

According to the present invention, there can be provided pants and a method for manufacturing the same, the pants comprising: the pants and the method for manufacturing the same can achieve both of the exercise functionality in the general movements of walking, squatting, leg raising, etc., and the preferable contour for reducing the extra wrinkles, puckering, overlapped wrinkles, and tightened wrinkles, can be applied to a wide range of uses, and are particularly suitable for business suits and formal uses, and are also useful for providing ready-made clothes, and the pants and the method for manufacturing the same are particularly suitable for ready-made clothes worn by adult women of standard body types.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a view showing an example of a style of a waistband of pants according to one embodiment of the present invention, wherein (a) shows a front pants panel and (B) shows a rear pants panel.

Fig. 2 is a view showing an angle θ in an example of pants (pants of example 4) manufactured in the style shown in fig. 1.

Detailed Description

Exemplary modes for carrying out the invention (hereinafter, simply referred to as "embodiments") will be described in detail below. The present invention is not limited to the following embodiments, and various modifications can be made within the scope of the present invention. In addition, the same reference numerals as those in the drawings denote elements having the same structure or function.

Fig. 1 is a view showing an example of a waistband-attached style of pants according to an embodiment of the present invention, and fig. 2 is a view showing an angle θ in an example of pants (pants according to example 4) manufactured by the style shown in fig. 1. The waistband portion is shown in fig. 1, but the arrangement of the waistband portion is not limited thereto, and the waistband portion may not be present. Referring to fig. 1 and 2, in the front patch style 1 and the rear patch style 2, a front waistband width XF is a distance from a patch upper end 12 as an upper end of a waistband portion to a waistband lower end 22 on a front center line of the pants, and a rear waistband width XB is a distance from a patch upper end 14 as an upper end of the waistband portion to a waistband lower end 24 on a rear center line of the pants. In the pants according to the present embodiment, the waistband width may be the same or different over the entire circumference of the pants in the body direction. For example, the distance from the upper end of the waistband portion (the upper end 11 of the pants panel) to the lower end 21 of the waistband portion and the distance from the upper end of the waistband portion (the upper end 13 of the pants panel) to the lower end 23 of the waistband portion on the side line of the pants, the distance from the upper end of the waistband portion (the upper end 12 of the pants panel) to the lower end 22 of the waistband portion on the front center line of the pants, and the distance from the upper end of the waistband portion (the upper end 14 of the pants panel) to the lower end 24 of the waistband portion on the rear center line of the pants may be the same as or different from each other. Fig. 1 shows an example in which the width of the waistband is the same over the entire circumference of the pants in the body direction.

In fig. 1, only the front right panel style of (a) and the rear right panel style of (B) are shown, but the pants illustrated in fig. 1 are intended to be left-right symmetric, and thus the front left panel and the rear left panel styles are not illustrated. Referring to fig. 1 and 2, the angle θ is an angle formed by a mesh line d of a warp knitting structure of the fabric of the rear left panel and a mesh line e of a warp knitting structure of the fabric of the rear right panel sandwiching a sewing line c of the rear crotch enclosing line (the sewing line c defines a rear center line of the pants). In addition, in fig. 1 (B), an angle θ/2 formed by the sewing line c and the mesh line d of the warp knitting structure of the cloth of the rear right pants panel is shown. As shown in fig. 1 (B), the sewn portion of the crotch region may include a curved line. The sewing line c of the present disclosure means a tangent line extending on the back crotch line from the waist band lower end 24 in the case where the waist band is present or the top end 14 of the patch in the case where the waist band is not present. The back crotch line may be straight from the top end 14 of the pants sheet or the lower end 24 of the waistband to the hip top end 44 (the hip top end 44 defines the hip line b of the pants). The seam c in this case is a straight line connecting the upper end 14 of the pant sheet or the lower end 24 of the waistband portion with the hip top end 44.

In the pattern of pants exemplified in fig. 1, the rear right pants panel has 1 tuck, but the pattern for producing pants of the present invention is not limited to this embodiment, and the front pants panel may have tucks, and the number of tucks may be 0 or two or more.

Referring to fig. 1 and 2, in the present embodiment, pants satisfy the following conditions (a) to (f):

(a) the sum of the length YF of the front crotch contour (i.e., the length from the top 12 of the pants to the bottom 32 of the crotch contour (the bottom 32 of the crotch contour defines the crotch line a of the pants)) including the front waistband width XF (in cm) and the length YB of the back crotch contour (i.e., the length from the top 14 of the pants to the bottom 34 of the crotch contour (the bottom 34 of the crotch contour defines the crotch line a of the pants)) including the back waistband width XB (in cm) is 56-64 cm;

(b) an angle theta formed by the mesh line d of the warp knitting structure of the cloth of the rear left trouser piece and the mesh line e of the warp knitting structure of the cloth of the rear right trouser piece is more than 16 degrees and less than 34 degrees by clamping the sewing line c of the rear crotch enclosing line;

(c)0.59≤(YF-XF)/(YB-XB)≤0.68；

(e)17≤YF-XF≤26；

(f)29≤YB-XB≤38。

crotch contour length, especially the crotch contour length of the rear pants panels, affects not only the design of the pants, but also the athletic functionality. On the other hand, the excessive margin adversely affects the contour. In the present embodiment, by significantly inclining the crotch lines of the rear left and right panels with respect to the mesh line of the warp knitted structure of the fabric, the anisotropy of the physical properties of the fabric (for example, the anisotropy that the fabric is more easily stretchable in the diagonal direction than in the warp direction and the weft direction) can be utilized to the maximum, and the sum of the length of the front crotch line and the length of the rear crotch line and the ratio of the length of the front crotch line and the length of the rear crotch line can be set within a specific range. By combining these measures, the increase in the crotch line length can be minimized, and the exercise functionality and the contour can be satisfactorily achieved. The pants according to the present embodiment can be easily expanded in size by a general lofting method, and thus are useful as, for example, a garment, because both the sports functionality and the contour are compatible with each other by the above-described configuration. Further, in the pants worn by an adult female, it is relatively difficult to achieve both the athletic functionality and the contour at the same time because the difference between the waist size and the hip size is large. Thus, the pants of the present embodiment are particularly useful as a garment worn by adult women (for example, by adult women of standard body sizes).

Also, liners may be used in the pants of the present invention. The material and the method of disposing the liner are not particularly limited, but the liner is desirably of the same design as the face fabric. Examples of the material of the liner include regenerated cellulose fibers such as cuprammonium fibers and rayon, semisynthetic fibers such as diacetate and triacetate, synthetic fibers such as polyester (e.g., polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT)), and nylon (e.g., nylon 6 and nylon 66). The arrangement method may be any of a full-liner type, a front-liner type, and a back-liner type, but the full-liner type is more preferable because the full-liner type can prevent the tingling feeling of the fabric and the rubbing of the fabric hem, and can deal with the evaporation feeling of the whole lower limb when a material having hygroscopicity is used for the liner.

In the pants, pockets such as a side pocket disposed on the side of the front pants piece and a rear pocket disposed on the rear pants piece can be appropriately disposed in the pants pieces. The side pockets may be disposed on only one side of the left and right pants pieces, or on both sides thereof, and when disposed on both sides, the balance of the elongation is good, which is preferable. In the case where the side pockets are disposed, it is preferable that the side cloth and the pocket cloth constituting the pockets are sewn to be overlapped with each other. The side cloth and the pocket cloth can be the same continuous cloth or different cloths. When the side panels of the side pockets are formed by a part of the front pants pieces, the pockets are improved in the athletic functionality in addition to the function of storing small articles and the like which is generally expected, and the oppressive feeling can be reduced even when a large action such as squatting or kneeling is performed. The pocket opening is a straight line connecting an appropriate position of the waist portion and the lateral line, and is preferably 14cm to 16cm in width required for inserting the hand. The material and shape of the side cloth of the pocket and the pocket cloth are not particularly limited, and the same material as the cloth of the pants sheet can be used as the material, which has advantages of improved uniformity of elongation, good athletic functionality, and good sewing properties. When the elongation of the side cloth of the pocket and the pocket cloth is set to be the same as the elongation of the pants sheet cloth, the balance of the elongation is improved, and therefore, it is preferable to select a material having high surface smoothness to facilitate loading and unloading of the article, and it is preferable to have moisture absorption to improve the thermal comfort.

From the viewpoint of compatibility between the contour and the athletic functionality of a wearer suitable for a standard body shape, the sum of the length YF of the front crotch line including the front waistband width XF and the length YB of the back crotch line including the back waistband width XB is 56cm to 64cm, preferably 58cm to 62 cm.

From the viewpoint of effectively applying anisotropy of physical properties (e.g., stretchability) of the fabric to improvement of the athletic functionality of the pants, an angle θ formed by the mesh line d of the warp-knitted structure of the fabric of the rear left panel and the mesh line e of the warp-knitted structure of the fabric of the rear right panel with the sewing line c of the rear crotch line interposed therebetween is 16 ° or more, preferably 20 ° or more, more preferably 24 ° or more, and from the viewpoint of obtaining good aesthetic properties of the pants, the angle θ is 34 ° or less, preferably 32 ° or less, more preferably 30 ° or less. In consideration of the reduction in the loss, which is the efficiency of using the fabric, the angle θ is most preferably 24 ° or more and 30 ° or less. In general, in the manufacture of pants, the direction of the mesh line of the warp knitted fabric of the fabric is generally set to be substantially parallel to the pants longitudinal direction (i.e., the height direction of the wearer). As a method of adjusting the angle θ within the above range, a method of: the direction of the mesh line of the warp knitting structure of the cloth is made substantially parallel to the longitudinal direction of the pants, and the inclination degree of the rear crotch line to the longitudinal direction of the pants is adjusted.

From the viewpoint of obtaining a good contour and a good athletic functionality, the ratio ((YF-XF)/(YB-XB)) of the length (YF-XF) obtained by subtracting the front waistband width XF from the length YF of the front crotch line to the length (YB-XB) obtained by subtracting the rear waistband width XB from the length YB of the rear crotch line is 0.59 or more, preferably 0.60 or more, and more preferably 0.61 or more, and the ratio (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) is 0.68 or less, preferably 0.67 or less, and more preferably 0.65 or less.

From the viewpoint of fitting to a wearer of a standard body shape, the length (YF-XF) obtained by subtracting the front waist belt width XF from the length YF of the front crotch line is 17cm to 26cm, preferably 17cm to 23 cm.

From the viewpoint of fitting a wearer of a standard body shape, the length (YB-XB) obtained by subtracting the back waistband width XB from the length YB of the back crotch line is 29cm to 38cm, preferably 29cm to 35 cm.

The front waistband width XF and the back waistband width XB may be 0cm, that is, may be designed to be included in the pants piece, and when a waistband fabric is separately prepared, the front waistband width XF and the back waistband width XB may be 5cm or less, preferably 3cm to 5cm, from the viewpoint of obtaining excellent appearance and athletic functionality of the pants. In a preferred embodiment, XF and XB are equal. In addition, a waistband core may be suitably used. If the same cloth as the pants sheet cloth is used as the cloth of the waistband, the waistband portion and the pants sheet cloth can be sewn together in a beautiful manner, and therefore, the finished product has a beautiful contour.

In the present embodiment, from the viewpoint of the athletic functionality, an elastic material may be used partially or entirely in the waist portion. In this case, if the waistband is disposed on the front portion including the front center line, instead of the stretchable material, the conspicuous portion is sewn more beautifully when viewed from the front, and the finished product has an aesthetically pleasing contour. That is, the stretchable material is preferably disposed at the waist portion at a ratio of 20% to 80%, more preferably 25% to 75%, of the entire circumference in the trunk direction, and is preferably not disposed at the front portion. As the stretchable material, an elastomer such as rubber may be used, or a composite body in which an elastomer such as rubber is wrapped with a cloth may be used, or a belt-like rubber may be used. The stretchable material need not be continuous, and may be partially disposed on both side portions, for example.

In the present embodiment, the "stretchable material" refers to a material having a tensile modulus (EMT) of 5% or more in a square test piece having a side of 20 cm. The tensile rate is a value measured in an elongation test under standard measurement conditions (measurement speed 0.2mm/sec, maximum load 500gf/cm) using a tensile property tester (for example, KES-FB1 tensile property tester manufactured by Katotech corporation). In the present embodiment, when the stretchable material is disposed, the stretchable material is disposed so that the direction in which the Elongation (EMT) is 5% or more is the direction around the trunk.

In the present embodiment, the "waist portion" refers to a portion located at the entire circumference of the body in a width of 5cm from the upper end of the pants piece, regardless of the presence or absence of the waist band portion.

In the present embodiment, the "front portion" refers to a portion of the waist portion that is 20% of the entire circumference in the trunk direction (i.e., 10% of the entire circumference from the front center line to the left and right).

In a preferred embodiment, the trousers satisfy the following conditions (g) to (j):

(g)0.60≤(YF-XF)/(YB-XB)≤0.66；

(i)18≤YF-XF≤23；

(j)30≤YB-XB≤35。

the material of the fibers constituting the fabric is not limited, and examples thereof include 1 kind or a combination of two or more kinds of natural fibers (e.g., wool, silk, cotton), regenerated cellulose fibers (e.g., cuprammonium fiber, rayon, tencel, etc.), synthetic fibers (e.g., polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate, nylon, acrylic, polyurethane, etc.), and semi-synthetic fibers (e.g., acetate, etc.), and may be either of long fibers and short fibers, or may be raw fibers, processed fibers, or composite fibers.

The fineness of the fibers constituting the fabric is not limited, and for example, from the viewpoint of the balance among the wearability, the thickness, and the weight per unit area, the fineness is preferably 33dtex to 200dtex, more preferably 56dtex to 167tex, if the number of cotton yarns is 20 to 80, if the number of wool yarns is 38 to 120, and if the number of polyurethane fibers is 17dtex to 66 dtex.

In addition, polyurethane can also be used as a core yarn of a filament twisted yarn or a core spun yarn.

The weight per unit area of the outer fabric of pants is preferably 130g/m from the viewpoint of wearability²Above, more preferably 150g/m²The above. In addition, from the viewpoint of the present tendency toward thin and lightweight and exertion of the exercise functionality, the weight per unit area is preferably 280g/m²Hereinafter, more preferably 180g/m²The following.

From the same viewpoint as the basis weight, the thickness of the outer fabric of pants is preferably 0.25mm or more, more preferably 0.28mm or more, preferably 0.50mm or less, more preferably 0.38mm or less.

The weight per unit area and the thickness shown here are values obtained in the same manner in a constant temperature chamber after storing cotton cloth in the constant temperature chamber maintained in an environment of 20 ℃x65% RH for one day and night. Weight per unit area (g/m)²) Is a value measured by a precision electronic balance, the thickness of the woven fabric is a value measured by a thickness meter (a Peacock constant pressure thickness gauge FFA10, load 23.5kPa) in accordance with JIS L1096, and the thickness of the knitted fabric is a value measured by a thickness meter (a Peacock constant pressure thickness gauge FFG11, load 0.7kPa) in accordance with JIS L1018.

From the viewpoint of the athletic functionality, the stretch ratio (EMT) obtained in the KES-FB1 tensile property test in the fabric of pants is preferably 1% or more in the warp direction, and is preferably 3% or more in the weft direction, and more preferably 5% or more. In addition, the stretch ratio (EMT) is preferably 25% or less, more preferably 10% or less in the warp direction, and preferably 30% or less, more preferably 15% or less in the weft direction, from the viewpoint of suppressing the decrease in the elastic force of the fabric and the wear of the knees of the pants when repeatedly worn.

Further, the Elongation (EMT) shown here is a value obtained under the Kato TechKES-FB1 tensile Property tester standard measurement conditions, the maximum load of 500gf/cm, and the measurement speed of 0.2 mm/sec.

The present embodiment also provides a method for manufacturing pants, including a process of setting out the style of the pants of the present embodiment as a main pants style. The layout can be performed according to a conventionally known method, and for example, the layout can be performed by enlarging or reducing the main pants pattern using commercially available layout software and further performing size adjustment at a desired position.

Examples

The present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

[ production of Fabric A ]

Spun yarns obtained by wool top dyeing of warp yarn 2/72 and weft yarn 2/72 are subjected to a finishing process of a wool textile fabric by a conventional method to obtain the twill-woven fabric A with the product density of 86 warps/2.54 cm and 67 wefts/2.54 cm. The basis weight of the fabric A is 170g/m²The thickness was 0.29mm, and the elongation was 3.6% in the warp direction and 10.6% in the weft direction.

[ production of Fabric B ]

Spun yarns obtained by wool top dyeing of the warp yarn 2/72 and the weft yarn 1/40 are subjected to a finishing process of a wool textile fabric by a conventional method to obtain the twill-woven fabric B with the product density of 79 yarns/2.54 cm and 72 yarns/2.54 cm. The basis weight of the fabric B is 160g/m²The thickness was 0.32mm, and the elongation was 3.3% in the warp direction and 9.9% in the weft direction.

[ production of Fabric C ]

The spun yarn dyed from the wool top of 1/36 was used as a sheath yarn, and a covering yarn using 22dtex polyurethane elastic fiber as a core yarn was used as the warp and weft yarns, and subjected to a finishing process of a wool woven fabric to obtain a drawn plain-weave fabric C having a density of 60 warps/2.54 cm and 52 wefts/2.54 cm. The basis weight of the fabric C is 270g/m²The thickness was 0.49mm, and the elongation was 20% in the longitudinal direction and 30% in the weft direction.

[ production of Fabric D ]

The warp yarns have a cotton count of 20 and the weft yarnsThe product density of the twill-woven fabric D with the warp of 88 threads/2.54 cm and the weft of 64 threads/2.54 cm is prepared by using 10 cotton yarn counts and performing a finishing process of a cotton textile fabric by a conventional method. The basis weight of the fabric D is 248g/m²The thickness was 0.46mm, and the elongation was 3% in the longitudinal direction and 3% in the weft direction.

[ production of Fabric E ]

In a tricot machine having 4 reeds of front, middle 1, middle 2, and back, polyester 88dtex/36f false twist yarn was passed through the reeds of the front and back in sets, 106dtex polyester electricity-proof yarn and 111dtex/48f false twist yarn were woven at a ratio of 1: 8, the copper-ammonia fiber 84dtex/54f and the polyester 33dtex/24f are interlaced with the false-twist processed yarn and passed through the reed of the middle part 2, the two reeds of the middle part 1 and the middle part 2 are arranged in a manner of complementing the yarn passing part, and a knitted fabric knitted by 28 stitches is obtained. After the finishing process of the conventional method, the fabric E formed by the tricot warp knitted fabric with the product density of 56 coil courses/2.54 cm and 36 coil wales/2.54 cm is prepared. The weight per unit area is 220g/m²The thickness was 0.68mm, the elongation was 21% in the machine direction and 18% in the weft direction.

[ Performance evaluation ]

Wearing tests were carried out on 10 adult women having a height of 158 to 163cm and a weight of 45 to 53 kg. The measurement environment is set to be 25 ℃ plus or minus 1 ℃ and the relative humidity is 60 percent plus or minus 5 percent.

(1) Functional movement of pants

Three motions of (a) placing one leg on a 25cm step table, (b) sitting on a chair with a seat height of 40cm, and (c) squatting were performed from a standing posture, and the motion functionality at the time of performing the three motions was reported for each pair of trousers. The evaluation was set to 5 grades, and the number average of 10 subjects was calculated. A value of 4 or more is preferable.

1 is difficult to operate

2 is slightly difficult to operate

None of 3 is

4 easy to operate

5 very easy to operate

(2) Evaluation of the contours of trousers

Trousers 1 to 19, 21 to 29 were worn by a subject having a height of 158cm, a weight of 49kg, a waist length of 65cm and a hip circumference of 88cm, and trousers 20 were worn by a subject having a height of 163cm, a weight of 53kg, a waist length of 68.5cm and a hip circumference of 91.5cm, and contour evaluations of the trousers were performed from 4 directions of (a) the front, (b) the right, (c) the left and (d) the rear in a standing posture. The contour evaluation was performed by 10 garment construction experts. The evaluation was set to 5 grades and the average of 10 experts was calculated. A value of 4 or more is preferable.

1 excessive wrinkles, tight wrinkles, loose wrinkles are more, the profile is very poor

2 excessive, tight, loose folds are slightly more, the profile is worse

3 excessive, tight, and loose wrinkles, but not said to be poor in profile

4 redundant folds, tight folds, loose folds are not too much, and the contour is good

5 redundant folds, tight folds and loose folds are almost not formed, and the outline is very good

The hem of the trousers of all examples and comparative examples shown below was set to 0.8 cm.

[ example 1]

Using the fabric a, pants 1 were sewn with θ ═ 20 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

[ example 2]

Using the fabric a, pants 2 were sewn with θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

[ example 3]

Using the fabric B, pants 3 were sewn with θ being 16 °, YF + YB being 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB being 0.625, XF being XB being 4, YF-XF being 20, YB-XB being 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

[ example 4]

Using the fabric B, pants 4 were sewn with θ ═ 34 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32. The angle θ of the trousers 4 is shown in fig. 2. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

[ example 5]

Using the fabric B, pants 5 were sewn with θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 58, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.613, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 19, and YB-XB ═ 31. The trousers have the size of 18cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

[ example 6]

Using the fabric B, pants 6 having θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 56, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.600, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 18, and YB-XB ═ 30 were sewn. The trousers have the size of 17cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

[ example 7]

Using the fabric B, pants 7 were sewn with θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 62, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB ═ 0.636, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 21, and YB-XB ═ 33. The trousers have the size of 20cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

[ example 8]

Using the fabric B, pants 8 were sewn with θ ═ 34 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.677, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 21, and YB-XB ═ 31. The trousers have the size of 20cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Example 9 stretched Fabric C

Using the fabric C, pants 9 were sewn with θ being 16 °, YF + YB being 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB being 0.625, XF being XB being 4, YF-XF being 20, YB-XB being 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Example 10 non-stretched Fabric D

Using the fabric D, pants 10 were sewn with θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 1

Using the fabric a, pants 11 were sewn with θ 10 °, YF + YB 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) 0.625, XF XB 4, YF-XF 20, YB-XB 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 2

Using the fabric a, pants 12 were sewn with θ ═ 40 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 3

Using the fabric B, pants 13 were sewn with θ 10 °, YF + YB 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) 0.625, XF XB 4, YF-XF 20, YB-XB 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 4

Using the fabric B, pants 14 were sewn with θ ═ 40 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 5

Using the fabric B, pants 15 were sewn with θ being 20 °, YF + YB being 52, and the values obtained in formula 1 being 0.571, XF being 4, YF-XF being 16, YB-XB being 28. The trousers have the size of 15cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 6

Using the fabric B, pants 16 were sewn with θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 66, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB ═ 0.657, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 23, and YB-XB ═ 35. The trousers have the size of 22cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 7

Using the fabric B, pants 17 having θ ═ 20 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 6, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32 were sewn. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 8

Using the fabric B, pants 18 having θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 6, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32 were sewn. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 9

Using the fabric B, pants 19 having θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 52, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.571, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 16, and YB-XB ═ 28 were sewn. The trousers have the size of 15cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

[ example 11]

The pattern used in example 2 was a main pattern, and a pattern increased by 1 size under standard lofting conditions (waist variation of 3cm, crotch 0.5cm, crotch 0cm, knee width of 1cm, and foot margin width of 1cm) was obtained using lofting software manufactured by AGMS corporation. Using this pattern, pants 20 having θ of 31.8 °, YF + YB of 61.2, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) of 0.621, XF of XB of 4, YF-XF of 20.4, YB-XB of 32.8 were sewn using the fabric B. The trousers have the size of 19.5cm at the upper crotch, 24.9cm at the front upper crotch, 35.4cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 20cm at the front knee, 20cm at the front foot opening, 24cm at the rear knee and 24cm at the rear foot opening.

[ example 12]

Using the fabric a, pants 21 were sewn with θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.667, XF ═ XB ═ 0, YF-XF ═ 24, and YB-XB ═ 36. The trousers have the size of 23cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 10 stretched Fabric C

Using the fabric C, pants 22 having θ ═ 10 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32 were sewn. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 11 non-stretched Fabric D

Using the fabric D, pants 23 were sewn with θ 10 °, YF + YB 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) 0.625, XF XB 4, YF-XF 20, YB-XB 32. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

EXAMPLE 13 Teridae Fabric E

Using the fabric E, pants 24 having θ ═ 30 °, YF + YB ═ 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.625, XF ═ XB ═ 4, YF-XF ═ 20, and YB-XB ═ 32 are sewn. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

EXAMPLE 14 Teridae Fabric E

Using the trieke fabric E, pants 25 having θ of 33.2 °, YF + YB of 63.4, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) of 0.621, XF of XB of 3, YF-XF of 22, YB-XB of 35.4 were sewn.

In place of the waistband, a stretchable fabric formed by winding rubber having a width of 3cm around a fabric E is continuously disposed in the waist portion of the pants, except for 15% of the girth of the waist and 70% of the total of 30% from the front center line to the left and right. The trousers have the size of 20cm at the upper crotch, 25cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

EXAMPLE 15 Teridae Fabric E

Using the trieke fabric E, pants 26 having θ of 33.2 °, YF + YB of 63.4, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) of 0.621, XF-XB of 3, YF-XF of 22, YB-XB of 35.4 were sewn.

In place of the waistband, a stretchable fabric in which rubber having a width of 3cm is wound around a fabric E is continuously disposed in a part of the waist of the pants, except 20% of the girth of the waist from the front center line to the left and right sides. The trousers have the size of 20cm at the upper crotch, 25cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

EXAMPLE 16 Teridae Fabric E

Using the trieke fabric E, pants 27 having θ of 33.2 °, YF + YB of 63.4, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) of 0.621, XF of XB of 3, YF-XF of 22, YB-XB of 35.4 were sewn.

In the waist portion of the pants, a stretchable fabric in which rubber having a width of 3cm is wound around a fabric E is continuously disposed in place of the waistband in portions of 90% of the girth of the waist from the front center line to the left and right sides. The trousers have the size of 20cm at the upper crotch, 25cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 12 Tericidae Fabric E

Using the trieke fabric E, pants 28 were sewn with θ 10 °, YF + YB 60, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) 0.636, XF-XB 3, YF-XF 21, YB-XB 33. In place of the waistband, a stretchable fabric formed by winding rubber having a width of 3cm around a fabric E was continuously arranged at the waist of the pants. The trousers have the size of 19cm at the upper crotch, 24cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Comparative example 13 Tericidae Fabric E

Using the trieke fabric E, pants 29 were sewn with θ 33.2 °, YF + YB 67, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) 0.694, XF-XB 3, YF-XF 25, YB-XB 36.

In place of the waistband, a stretchable fabric formed by winding rubber having a width of 3cm around a fabric E was continuously arranged at the waist of the pants. The trousers have the size of 23cm at the upper crotch, 25cm at the front upper crotch, 35cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

EXAMPLE 17 Teridae Fabric E

Using the trieke fabric E, the pants 30 having the side pockets of θ ═ 33.2 °, YF + YB ═ 63.4, (YF-XF)/(YB-XB) ═ 0.621, XF ═ XB ═ 3, YF-XF ═ 22, YB-XB ═ 35.4 were sewn.

In the waist portion of the pants, a stretchable fabric in which rubber having a width of 3cm is wound around a fabric E is continuously disposed in a portion of 75% of the circumference of the waist of the pants excluding 12.5% of the circumference from the front center line to the right and left sides, respectively, instead of the waistband. The pocket fabric is formed by making the side fabric and the pocket fabric into a continuous fabric E, and sewing the fabric by overlapping the fabric inside. The upper side of the pocket mouth was sewn at a position located 12.5% of the circumference of the waist from the front center line of the waist to the left and right, the lower side was sewn 13.5cm downward from the upper end of the side line, and the width of the pocket mouth was 15 cm. The trousers have the size of 20cm at the upper crotch, 25cm at the front upper crotch, 34cm at the rear upper crotch, 70cm at the lower crotch, 19cm at the front knee, 19cm at the front foot mouth, 23cm at the rear knee and 23cm at the rear foot mouth.

Table 1 summarizes the structures of pants of examples and comparative examples and the evaluation results thereof.

[ Table 1]

Industrial applicability

The pants of the present disclosure can be applied to various uses such as sports, work, leisure, uniform, business suit, formal use, and the like, and are particularly suitable as a garment for adult women of standard body type.

Description of the reference numerals

1. Front pant pattern; 2. back panel style; 11. 12, 13, 14, the upper end of the trousers piece; 21. 22, 23, 24, the lower end of the waistband part; 32. 34, the lower end of the crotch enclosing line; 44. a hip apex portion; a. go up the crotch line; b. a hip line; c. a suture; d. e, mesh line of warp knitting organization; XF, front waistband width; XB, the width of the back waistband; YF, length of front crotch contour; YB, the length of the back crotch enclosing line.

Claims

1. A pair of trousers is characterized in that,

the pants satisfy the following conditions (a) to (f):

(c)0.59≤(YF-XF)/(YB-XB)≤0.68；

(e)17≤YF-XF≤26；

(f)29≤YB-XB≤38。

2. the pant of claim 1,

the pants satisfy the following conditions (g) to (j):

(g)0.60≤(YF-XF)/(YB-XB)≤0.66；

(i)18≤YF-XF≤23；

(j)30≤YB-XB≤35。

3. the pants according to claim 1 or 2,

an elastic material is disposed in the waist portion.

4. The pair of pants of claim 3 wherein,

the stretchable material is disposed in 20% to 80% of the entire circumferential length of the waist portion in the trunk direction, and the stretchable material is not disposed in the front portion.

5. The trousers according to any one of claims 1-4,

the front piece is provided with a side pocket which is formed by a part of the front piece by side cloth.

6. The pair of pants according to any one of claims 1 to 5,

the trousers are used by adult women.

7. A method for manufacturing trousers, wherein,

the method for producing pants comprises a step of setting the pants pattern according to any one of claims 1 to 6 as a main pants pattern and setting out the pants pattern.