CN115088898A - Men suit drawing method based on grid group - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a drawing method of men's western-style clothes based on a grid group, which comprises the steps of respectively drawing a front garment piece, a rear garment piece, a side piece, a collar piece and a sleeve piece by utilizing the grid group, wherein the grid group is formed by arraying a plurality of grids with the same size, the side length of each grid is 0.089 multiplied, and the shape refers to the chest circumference of a human body; the structural framework of the grid group stabilized garment piece is adopted, point drawing is carried out in the grid group, the side length of a single grid in the grid group is used as a standard, the size of each part is obtained through simple calculation, then the front garment piece, the rear garment piece, the side piece and the collar piece are drawn simultaneously, and then the sleeve piece matched with the structure is drawn correspondingly. The drawing method is more convenient, accurate, easy to operate and more scientific.

Description

Men suit drawing method based on grid group

Technical Field

The invention relates to a garment, in particular to a men's suit drawing method based on a grid group.

Background

The traditional men's western-style clothes drawing adopts a proportion drawing method, a prototype drawing method, a short-inch drawing method, a chest degree method and the like. These conventional drawing methods require a lot of drawing data, such as height, shoulder width, neck circumference, arm circumference, front width, back width, arm circumference, upper chest circumference, lower chest circumference, waist circumference, abdomen circumference, sleeve length, wrist circumference, etc. of a human body. Because the data is too much, confusion is easy to form in drawing, the structures of the produced drawing can be unbalanced, and higher requirements are placed on subsequent cutting and sewing. Furthermore, the drawing disorder of the men's western-style clothes can be caused by the difference of human bodies and the deviation of the measured body types, and the data is not matched with the drawing, thereby influencing the appearance and the shape of the western-style clothes.

In the traditional drawing method, more drawing formulas are needed, factors with unstable coefficients exist among the formulas, and the control of the increase and decrease of the coefficients needs an experienced master tailor. Otherwise, the parts of the suit and the structure of the large body cannot be closely matched, so that the drawing accuracy and the structural stability are influenced. Moreover, conventional mapping methods are mostly based on experience, and there are unreliable factors for the experience itself.

In addition, the traditional drawing method has various genres, mixed fish eyes, relatively lack of correlation among drawing formulas, difficult operation and low scientificity.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a drawing method for men's western-style clothes based on a grid group, which not only improves drawing efficiency, but also enables the matching degree of various structures of the clothes to be higher, and is beneficial to stabilizing the appearance shape of the western-style clothes.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

a men's western-style clothes drawing method based on the square grid group, including utilizing the square grid group to draw front garment piece, back garment piece, side sheet, neck piece and sleeve piece separately, the square grid group is formed by a plurality of square grids with the same size and arranging in array, the side length of the square grid is 0.089 × type, the type refers to the human body chest circumference;

each column of the square grid group from left to right is named in turn according to the sequence of English letters, and each row of the square grid group from top to bottom is named in turn according to the sequence of Arabic numerals; the four sides of the square are sequentially named as a first side, a second side, a third side and a fourth side from the top side in a clockwise direction; the four vertexes of the square grid are sequentially an upper left intersection point, an upper right intersection point, a lower right intersection point and a lower left intersection point;

the drawing process of the front garment piece, the rear garment piece, the collar piece and the side pieces is as follows: setting a set point i on the second side of the h1 square, wherein the distance from an upper right intersection point of the h1 square to the point i is 1/3 of the square side length, forming a rear collar oblique line by using a straight line connection point i and the upper left intersection point of the h1 square, setting a left 1/3 position of the rear collar oblique line as a point i2, and setting a line segment i2i3 vertical to the rear collar oblique line as 1/7 of the square side length; drawing a vertical line ii1 perpendicular to the second side of the h1 square grid, wherein a line segment ii1 is 1/3 of the side length of the square grid, and an arc line connecting point i, i1, i3 and the left upper intersection point of the h1 square grid form a neck pit structure of the rear garment piece; connecting the upper left intersection point of the h1 square grid and the lower left intersection point of the f1 square grid by a straight line to form a shoulder base oblique line of the rear garment piece, setting a point j1 on the shoulder base oblique line, wherein the distance between the point j1 and the lower left intersection point of the f1 square grid is equal to 1/3 of the side length of the square grid, and a line segment from the point j1 to the upper left intersection point of the h1 square grid is a rear shoulder oblique line; at a second side set point j of the f2 square grid, the distance between a point j and the right upper intersection point of the f2 square grid is 1/3, a straight line connecting point j and the left upper intersection point of the a1 square grid form a front shoulder basic line, the front shoulder basic line passes through the b1 square grid and generates an intersection point 1 and a point k, and the length of a line segment kj2 is equal to the length of a back shoulder oblique line by-0.7 cm at the set point j2 on the front shoulder basic line; drawing a vertical line from the middle point of the fourth edge of the d2 square and the d3 square to the right respectively, wherein the distance between the middle point of the fourth edge of the d2 square and the point n is equal to 1/2 minus 0.9cm of the side length of the square, and the distance between the middle point of the fourth edge of the d3 square and the point n1 is equal to 1/2 of the distance between the middle point of the fourth edge of the d2 square and the point n; setting a point n2 on the fourth side of the e4 square grid, wherein the distance from the point n2 to the upper left intersection point of the e4 square grid is equal to the distance from the middle point of the fourth side of the d2 square grid to the point n minus 0.8cm, and connecting points j2, n1, n2, the upper right intersection point of the e4 square grid, the middle point of the third side of the f2 square grid and the point j1 in turn to form an arm hole structure; setting a line segment kk1 as a bottom end line of the collar piece, setting an included angle between the line segment kk1 and a front shoulder basic line as-1, setting the length of the line segment kk1 to be equal to the length of an arc line of a collar pit structure of the rear garment piece, setting the line segment kk 1k2 to be vertical to kk1, setting the line segment kk 1k2 as 1/10 of the shape minus 1.8cm, setting a line segment kk 2k3 vertical to the line segment kk 1k2, setting a point k3 as an intersection point of a first edge of a2 square and the line segment kk 2k3, setting the second side of the grid a2 as a set point 1, setting the distance between a point k3 and the point 1 to the right upper intersection point of the grid a2 to be equal, connecting the point k3 and the point l by a straight line, setting the included angle between a line segment ll1 and a line segment lk3 to be-18, setting a line segment ll1 to be 0.5cm longer than the line segment lk3, setting the right lower intersection point of the grid a6 as a button position, the distance between a set point l2 on the third side of the a6 square grid and the right lower intersection point of the point l2 and the a6 square grid is equal to 1/5 of the side length of the square grid, and an arc line is sequentially connected with the point l1, the middle point of the third side of the a3 square grid and the point l2 to form a lapel structure; at a second side set point s of the e6 square, the distance from the point s to the lower right intersection point of the e6 square is 1/3, a perpendicular line is made to the second side of the e6 square, and a line segment p1s is 1/7 and a line segment sp is 1/5; at the fourth set point t2 of the f10 square, the distance from the point t2 to the lower left intersection of the f10 square is 1/7, the length of the square is the perpendicular to the fourth side of the f10 square, so that the line segment t2t3 is 1/5; respectively connecting the left lower intersection point of the f3 square with a point p1, a point p1 and a point t3 by straight lines to form a side piece side swing structure; respectively connecting the left lower intersection point of the f3 square grid with the point p, the point p with the point t2 by straight lines to form a rear piece side swing structure, and drawing a line segment t2u perpendicular to the second side of the h10 square grid to form a bottom edge structure of a rear piece; setting a point q2 on an armhole structure arc, setting a distance between a point q2 and a point n2 to be equal to 1/7 of the side length of a square grid, setting a point q1 at a position 1/3 below a second edge of the d6 square grid, setting a line segment q1q to be vertical to the second edge of the d6 square grid, wherein the length is 1/3 of the side length of the square grid, and forming an armhole province structure by using straight lines to connect the points q2 and q; a line segment t2t perpendicular to the second side of the d10 square grid is drawn, a point t1 is an intersection point of the line segment t2t and the second side of the d10 square grid, and a line segment t1t is t2t3, so that a bottom edge structure of the side piece is formed; connecting points n2 and q1, q1 and t with straight lines respectively to form a side panel left side seam structure, wherein the contour structure of the side panel is formed by the left lower intersection points of the points n2, q1, t3, p1 and f 3; setting an intersection point 2 at 1/3 below the fourth side of the square c7, drawing a line segment perpendicular to the fourth side of the d7 square with the intersection point 2 as a starting point, the end point of the line segment being r, the distance from the intersection point 2 to the point r being equal to the square side length multiplied by 1.71, setting points m1 and m2 on the line segment, the distance from the intersection point 2 to the point m1 being equal to 1/3, and the line segment m1m2 being equal to 1/7; at set point m at the left 1/3 of the third side of the c4 square, a front waist feature is constructed with straight lines connecting point m and point m1 and points m and m 2; a line segment rt1 is extended to a point r1, an abdomen width rr1 is equal to 1/7 of the side length of a square grid, a front waist input amount r1r2 is equal to 1/7 of the side length of the square grid, and an abdomen and lower hem structure is formed by respectively connecting a point q and a point r2, a point r2 and a point m2, a point r and a point t1 by straight lines; a front panel circular pendulum structure is formed by connecting points l2, u1, u2 and a right lower intersection point of grid d10 by arcs at a set point u1 at the right 7/1 of the first side of grid a9 and a set point u2 at the right 1/3 of the third side of grid b10, and the front panel contour is formed by points k2, k3, l1, l2, u1, u2, d10 grid right lower intersection point, r, m2, r2, q2, n1, n, j2, k and k 1; a set point o2 is set at the right 1/11 of the third side of the h3 square, a set point o3 is set at the right 1/3.5 of the third side of the h5 square, a set point o1 is set at the second side 1/3 of the h7 square, the length of a back vent width line oo1 is equal to the side length of the square 1/3, the points i, o2, o3 and o are connected in sequence by arcs, and then the points o1 and u are connected by straight lines to form a back garment back structure, and the back garment outline consists of the points i, o2, o3, o1, u, t2, p, the right upper intersection point of the e4 square, the middle point of the third side of the f2 square, the left upper intersection point of the j1 square and the left upper intersection point of the h1 square, i3 and i 1.

Further, the drawing process of the sleeve is as follows: a vertical line is drawn by taking the middle point of the second side of the c1 square grid as a starting point, the end point of the vertical line is set as an intersection point 9, the distance between the intersection point 9 and the middle point of the second side of the c1 square grid is 1/4 of the side length of the square grid, the third side of the c2 square grid is set as an intersection point 10, the distance between the intersection point 10 and the lower right intersection point of the c2 square grid is 1/6 of the side length of the square grid, the intersection point 11 is set at 1/2 of the third side of the c5 square grid, the intersection point 12 is set at the right 1/7 of the third side of the b8 square grid, and the intersection point 9, the intersection point 10, the intersection point 11 and the intersection point 12 are connected by arcs in sequence to form a large sleeve outer side structure; setting the upper right 1/3.5 of the first side of the b1 square grid as a crossing point 14, taking the crossing point 14 as a starting point to draw a vertical line upwards, setting the end point of the vertical line as a point y, setting the distance from the crossing point 14 to the point y as 1/5.5 of the side length of the square grid, setting a crossing point 13 at the lower 1/11 of the fourth side of the a2 square grid, and connecting the crossing point 9, the point y, the middle point of the third side of the a1 square grid and the crossing point 13 by an arc line to form a long-sleeve mountain structure; a point y1 is arranged in the square grid a5, the distance from the point y1 to the midpoint of the fourth edge of the square grid a5 is 1/7 of the side length of the square grid, a point z is set at the lower 1/4 of the fourth edge of the square grid a8, and an intersection point 13, the point y1 and the point z are connected by an arc line to form a sleeve inner side structure; in a square a8, a set point z1, a distance from a point z1 to the middle point of the third edge of the square a8 is 1/5 of the side length of the square, and an arc line is used for connecting the intersection point 12, the point z1 and the point z to form a large-sleeve cuff structure; the large sleeve contour is composed of an intersection point 9, a point y, an intersection point 13, a point y1, a point z1, an intersection point 12, an intersection point 11 and an intersection point 10; the y2 is set at the left 1/5 of the third side of the c3 square grid, the intersection point 15 is set at the 1/2 position of the third side of the b8 square grid, the middle point of the second side of the b1 square grid is connected through an arc line, and the y2 and the intersection point 15 form a small sleeve outer side structure; an intersection point 16 is set in the b1 square grid, the distance from the intersection point 16 to the midpoint of the fourth edge of the b1 square grid is 1/2.5 of the side length of the square grid, and an arc line is used for connecting the midpoint of the second edge of the b1 square grid, the intersection point 16, the midpoint of the third edge of the a2 square grid and the intersection point 13 to form a small sleeve hill structure; the small sleeve contour is composed of a crossing point 13, a point y1, a point z1, a crossing point 15, a point y2, a second side middle point of a b1 square grid, a crossing point 16 and a third side middle point of a2 square grid.

Further, the drawing process of the collar piece further comprises the following steps: the contour structure of the front garment piece is respectively extended with a collar bottom line section kk1 and a lapel line section ll1 to enable the two to be intersected to generate a collar point, a 0.5cm concave part is arranged at the lower third part of a collar piece upper opening line section k2k3 to generate a bending point, an arc connecting point k2, the bending point and k3 form a collar piece upper opening structure, a 1/2 collar piece structure is formed by the point k2, the bending point, k3, the intersection point 1, the collar point, k and k1, and a complete collar piece is formed by the collar piece structures with the same two sides, namely 1/2.

Further, the front cut piece drawing process further comprises the following steps: raising the midpoint of a shoulder line segment kj2 of the front cut piece by 0.3cm upwards to generate a point v, and forming a new shoulder structure by using arc connecting points k, v and j 2; the middle point of the lower side cycloid of the front garment piece, which is formed by the right lower intersection point of the point r and the grid d10, protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to generate a point w, and a new lower side pendulum structure is formed by the arc connecting points r and w and the right lower intersection point of the grid d 10.

Further, the side panel drawing process further includes: setting the middle point of the line segment q1t as a side piece lower hem intersection point 6, wherein the lower hem intersection point 6 protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to a point w1, and forming a new side piece left lower hem structure by using arc connection points q1, w1 and t; the midpoint of the line segment p1t3 is set as a side piece lower hem intersection point 7, the lower hem intersection point 7 protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to a point x, and an arc line is used for connecting the points p1, x and t3 to form a new side piece right lower hem structure.

Further, the rear garment piece drawing process further comprises the following steps: setting the midpoint of a line segment pt2 as an intersection point 8, wherein the intersection point 8 protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to a point x1, and forming a new rear piece lower hem structure by using arc connection points p, x1 and t 2; the midpoint of the line segment between the set point j1 and the upper left intersection point of the square h1 is the intersection point 4, the intersection point 4 is concave inward by 0.3cm to generate a point v1, and the new rear shoulder structure is formed by connecting the points j1, v1 and h1 through arcs.

Furthermore, a rectangular western-style clothes upper pocket is arranged on the front cut piece, the upper right corner of the upper pocket is set as the upper right intersection point of the grid c4, the vertical distance between the vertex of the upper left corner of the pocket and the first edge of the grid b4 is equal to 1/7 of the side length of the grid, the length of the pocket is equal to the side length of the grid multiplied by 1.4, and the width of the pocket is 2.2 cm;

furthermore, the wool sample plates of the front garment piece, the side pieces, the rear garment piece, the collar piece and the sleeve piece are all finished by sewing and folding the head and the edge on the basis of the pure sample plates.

Further, the front garment piece, the side pieces, the rear garment piece, the collar piece and the sleeve piece are all sewn at 1.0 cm;

hems of 4.0cm are respectively arranged on the bottom edges of the front garment piece, the side pieces and the rear garment piece and the cuffs of the sleeve pieces.

Furthermore, the sleeve hairpin structure is arranged at the position, close to the cuff, of the outer side of the sleeve piece.

The invention has the following beneficial effects:

according to the invention, the grid group is drawn according to the type of the garment, then the structural framework of the grid group stabilized garment piece is adopted, the point drawing is carried out in the grid group, the side length of a single grid in the grid group is taken as a reference, the size of each part can be obtained through simple calculation, the complex formula calculation is not needed, the operation is easy, the drawing method is greatly simplified, the drawing efficiency is improved, the matching degree of each structure of the garment is high, and the appearance modeling of the western-style garment is favorably stabilized. Therefore, compared with the traditional western-style clothes drawing method, the drawing method is more convenient, accurate, easy to operate and more scientific.

Drawings

FIG. 1: schematic diagram of the garment piece grid group of the invention;

FIG. 2: the invention is a schematic diagram of a sleeve check group;

FIG. 3: a schematic diagram of a single square of the invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of: drawing a first drawing diagram of front and rear garment pieces;

FIG. 5 is a schematic view of: drawing a second drawing diagram of front and back cut pieces;

FIG. 6: drawing a third drawing diagram of front and rear garment pieces;

FIG. 7: the structure adjustment schematic diagram of front and back garment pieces and side pieces is shown;

FIG. 8: the structure of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece is schematically sewn;

FIG. 9: the invention is a drawing schematic diagram of a collar;

FIG. 10: the drawing schematic diagram of the sleeve of the invention;

FIG. 11: the seam-placing schematic diagram of the sleeve sheet of the invention;

Detailed Description

The following examples are given to further illustrate the present invention in detail, but are not intended to limit the present invention.

This example is drawn according to size 170/88A, where the size refers to the bust of the person and the size refers to the height of the person.

As shown in fig. 1 to 3, a drawing method for men's western-style clothes based on a grid group includes drawing a front garment piece, a rear garment piece, a side piece, a collar piece and a sleeve piece by using the grid group, wherein the grid group is formed by arraying a plurality of grids with the same size, the side length of each grid is 0.089 × type (/88) ═ 7.832cm (four digits after decimal point reservation, and four digits after decimal point reservation are reserved for all data calculated by grid side length below), and the grid group includes an 80 grid group and a 24 grid group. The 80 square grid group is used for drawing front garment pieces, rear garment pieces and collar pieces of the men's western-style clothes, and the 24 square grid group is used for drawing big and small sleeve pieces of the men's western-style clothes; the 80 square grid group adopts 8 square grids which are transversely arranged and 10 square grids which are longitudinally arranged; the 24-square grid group adopts 3 square grids which are arranged horizontally and 8 square grids which are arranged vertically.

Each column of the square grid group from left to right is named in turn according to the sequence of English letters, and each row of the square grid group from top to bottom is named in turn according to the sequence of Arabic numerals; the four sides of the square are sequentially named as a first side, a second side, a third side and a fourth side from the top side in a clockwise direction; the four vertexes of the square are sequentially an upper left intersection point, an upper right intersection point, a lower right intersection point and a lower left intersection point.

As shown in fig. 4 to 7 and 10, the drawing process of the present invention includes the following points: a collar upper notch point k2, a collar lower notch point k1, a collar neck point k, a collar head point k3, a cuff point l, a cuff lower point l1, an outer buckle point l2, a front shoulder point j2, a front sleeve upper point n, a front sleeve lower point n1, an arm hole depth point n2, a back shoulder point j1, a shoulder lower point j, a back collar lower point i, a back collar transverse width point i1, a back collar sag point i2, a back collar arc point i3, a back waist closing point o2, a back waist closing point o3, a back cuff outer point o1, a back cuff inner point o, a closing point p1, a back waist closing point p, a waist intersection point s, a cuff saving point q 7, a chest upper saving point m, a chest lower left saving point m1, a chest lower right saving point m2, a waist saving point q, a waist saving point r, a front waist saving point q saving point, a side piece 2, a front side piece u swinging point 2, a left side piece 2, a front side piece u swinging point 2, a front side piece point 2, a front side piece u swinging point 2, a back side piece point b 2, a back side piece u and a side piece 2. Front shoulder arc point v, back shoulder arc point v1, front middle piece swing arc point w, side piece left arc point w1, side piece right arc point x, back piece swing arc point x1, sleeve mountain point y, sleeve outer point y2, sleeve inner bend point y1, sleeve upper point z and sleeve arc point z1

The drawing process of the front garment piece, the rear garment piece, the collar piece and the side pieces is as follows: setting a point i on a second side of the h1 square, wherein the distance from an upper right intersection point of the h1 square to the point i is 1/3 of the side length of the square, namely 2.6106 cm, forming a back collar oblique line by using a straight line connecting point i and an upper left intersection point of the h1 square, setting a left 1/3 position of the back collar oblique line as a point i2, setting a line segment i2i3 vertical to the back collar oblique line as 1/7 of the side length of the square as 1.1188 cm, setting a vertical line ii1 vertical to a second side of the h1 square, setting a line segment ii1 as 1/3 of the side length of the square, and forming a back garment panel neck pit structure by using arc connecting points i, i1, i3 and an upper left intersection point of the h1 square; the upper left intersection point of the h1 square grid and the lower left intersection point of the f1 square grid are connected by a straight line to form a shoulder basic oblique line of the rear garment piece, the distance between the point j1 and the lower left intersection point of the f1 square grid on the shoulder basic oblique line is equal to 1/3 of the side length of the square grid, namely 2.6106 cm, and the line segment from the point j1 to the upper left intersection point of the h1 square grid is the rear shoulder oblique line; at a second side set point j of the f2 square, the distance between the point j and the upper right intersection of the f2 square is 1/3 the length of the square side, i.e. 2.6106 cm, a straight line is used to connect the point j and the upper left intersection of the a1 square to form a front shoulder base line, the front shoulder base line passes through the b1 square and generates intersection 1 and point k, at the front shoulder base line, the set point j2 makes the length of a line segment kj2 equal to the length of the back shoulder oblique line-0.7 cm, i.e. 14.058 cm, a perpendicular line is drawn to the right from the midpoints of the fourth sides of the d2 square and d3 square respectively, the distance between the midpoint of the fourth side of the d2 square and the point n is equal to 1/2 minus 0.9cm the length of the square side, i.e. 3.016 cm, and the distance between the midpoint of the fourth side of the d3 square and the point n1 is equal to 1/2 the distance between the midpoint of the fourth side of the d2 square and the point n, i.e. 1.e. 508 cm; at the fourth edge set point n2 of the e4 square, the distance from the point n2 to the upper left intersection point of the e4 square is equal to the distance from the midpoint of the fourth edge of the d2 square to the point n minus 0.8cm, namely 2.216 cm; connecting the right upper intersection point of j2, n1, n2 and e4 square grids, the middle point of the third edge of the f2 square grid and the point j1 in sequence by using an arc to form an armhole structure; setting a line segment kk1 as a bottom end line of the collar piece, setting an included angle between the line segment kk1 and a front shoulder basic line as-1-88-87 °, setting a length of the line segment kk1 as an arc length of a collar pit structure of the rear garment piece, setting a line segment k1k2 as a perpendicular to kk1, setting a line segment k1k2 as a perpendicular to 1/10 minus 1.8cm as-7 cm, setting a line segment k2k3 as a perpendicular to the line segment k2, setting a point k3 as an intersection of a2 grid first side and a line segment k2k3, setting a point 1 on a2 grid second side, setting a distance between a point k3 and a right upper intersection of the line segments from 1 to 2 as 2.6106 cm, setting an included angle between a line segment k3 and a line segment 1 as-18-88-18-3 as-3 cm, setting an included angle between a line segment k3 and a line segment lkb 3 as a right upper intersection of 3 a point 3 a, setting a distance between a straight line segment 3 a point 3 a lower side 3 as 3 a length equal to a side 3 a point 3 a lower side 3 a point 3 a side 3 b, namely 1.5664 cm, and connecting the point l1, the midpoint of the third edge of the a3 square and the point l2 in sequence by using an arc to form a lapel structure; at the second side set point s of the e6 square, the distance from point s to the lower right intersection of the e6 square is 1/3, i.e., 2.6106 centimeters, of the side length of the square; making a perpendicular to the second side of the e6 square, such that the line segment p1s is 1/7, i.e., 1.1188 cm, of the square side length; segment sp is 1/5 square, i.e. 1.5664 cm; at the fourth set point t2 of the f10 square, the distance from the point t2 to the lower left intersection point of the f10 square is 1/7 square sides, i.e., 1.1188 centimeters; making a vertical line perpendicular to the fourth side of the f10 square, so that a line segment t2t3 is 1/5 of the side length of the square is 1.5664 cm; the left lower intersection point of the f3 square grid and the point p1, the point p1 and the point t3 are respectively connected by straight lines to form a side piece side swing structure; straight lines are respectively connected with the left lower intersection point of the f3 square grid and the point p, the point p and the point t2 to form a rear piece side swing structure, and a line segment t2u perpendicular to the second edge of the h10 square grid is made to form a bottom edge structure of the rear piece; setting a point q2 on an arc of the armhole structure, setting a distance between a point q2 and a point n2 to be equal to 1/7 of the side length of a square grid, namely 1.1188 cm, setting a point q1 at the lower 1/3 of the second side of a d6 square grid, setting a line segment q1q to be perpendicular to the second side of the d6 square grid, and setting the length of the line segment to be 1/3 of the side length of the square grid, namely 2.6106 cm, and forming the armhole province structure by using straight line connection points q2 and q; a line segment t2t perpendicular to the second side of the d10 square grid is drawn, a point t1 is an intersection point of the line segment t2t and the second side of the d10 square grid, and a line segment t1t is t2t3, so that a side piece bottom edge structure is formed; the straight lines are respectively connected with the points n2 and q1, and q1 and t to form a left side seam structure of the side panel, and the contour structure of the side panel is formed by the points n2, q1, t3, p1, f3 and a left lower intersection point; an intersection point 2 is set at 1/3 below the fourth edge of the square c7, a line segment perpendicular to the fourth edge of the d7 square is made by taking the intersection point 2 as a starting point, the end point of the line segment is r, and the distance from the intersection point 2 to the point r is equal to the length of the side of the square multiplied by 1.71, namely 13.3927 centimeters; at the set points m1 and m2 on the line segment, the distance from the intersection point 2 to the point m1 is equal to 1/3, i.e., 2.6106 centimeters, of the square side length, and the line segment m1m2 is equal to 1/7, i.e., 1.1188 centimeters, of the square side length; at set point m at the left 1/3 of the third side of the c4 square, a front waist feature is constructed with straight lines connecting point m and point m1 and points m and m 2; extending a line segment rt1 to a point r1, wherein the width rr1 of the abdomen province is 1/7-1.1188 cm long as the side length of a square grid, the input amount r1r2 of the front waist province is 1/7-1.1188 cm long as the side length of the square grid, and straight lines are respectively connected with the point q, the point r2, the point r2, the point m2, the point r and the point t1 to form the abdomen province and lower hem structure; a front panel circular pendulum structure is formed by respectively connecting points l2, u1, u2 and d10 with arcs at a set point u1 at the right 7/1 on the first side of a9 square grid and a set point u2 at the right 1/3 on the third side of a 10 square grid, and the front panel profile is formed by points k2, k3, l1, l2, u1, u2, d10 square grid right lower intersection point, r, m2, r2, q2, n1, n, j2, k and k 1; a set point o2 at the right 1/11 of the third side of the h3 square, a set point o3 at the right 1/3.5 of the third side of the h5 square, a set point o1 at the second side 1/3 of the h7 square, a back cut width line segment oo1 having a length equal to 1/3 cm equal to the side length of the square, connecting points i, o2, o3 and o in sequence by arcs, and then connecting points o1 and u by straight lines to form a rear panel back structure, wherein the rear panel contour is composed of points i, o2, o3, o1, u, t2, p and e4 square, an upper right intersection point of the third side of the f2 square, j1, an upper left intersection point of the h1 square, i3 and an i 1.

The drawing process of the sleeve is as follows: a perpendicular line is drawn by taking the middle point of the second side of the c1 square grid as a starting point, the end point of the perpendicular line is set as an intersection point 9, the distance between the intersection point 9 and the middle point of the second side of the c1 square grid is 1/4, namely 1.958 cm, the third side of the c2 square grid is set as an intersection point 10, and the distance between the intersection point 10 and the right lower intersection point of the c2 square grid is 1/6, namely 1.3053 cm; an intersection point 11 is set at 1/2 of the third side of the c5 square, an intersection point 12 is set at the right 1/7 of the third side of the b8 square, and an intersection point 9, an intersection point 10, an intersection point 11 and an intersection point 12 are connected in sequence by arcs to form a large-sleeve outer side structure; setting the upper right 1/3.5 of the first side of the b1 square grid to set an intersection point 14, taking the intersection point 14 as a starting point to draw a vertical line upwards, taking the end point of the vertical line as a point y, and setting the distance from the intersection point 14 to the point y to be 1/5.5 of the side length of the square grid, namely 1.424 cm; an intersection point 13 is set at the position 1/11 below the fourth side of the a2 square grid, and an arc line is used for connecting the intersection point 9, the point y, the midpoint of the third side of the a1 square grid and the intersection point 13 to form a long-sleeve mountain structure; a point y1 is arranged in the square of the a5, and the distance from the point y1 to the midpoint of the fourth edge of the square of the a5 is 1/7 of the side length of the square, namely 1.1188 cm; a set point z is arranged at 1/4 below the fourth side of the square grid a8, and an arc line is used for connecting the intersection point 13, the point y1 and the point z to form an inner side structure of the sleeve piece; the distance from the set point z1 in the square a8 and the point z1 to the middle point of the third side of the square a8 is 1/5 of the side length of the square, namely 1.5664 centimeters; the intersection point 12, the point z1 and the point z are connected by an arc to form a large sleeve cuff structure; the large sleeve contour is composed of an intersection point 9, a point y, an intersection point 13, a point y1, a point z1, an intersection point 12, an intersection point 11 and an intersection point 10; the y2 is set at the left 1/5 of the third side of the c3 square grid, the intersection point 15 is set at the 1/2 position of the third side of the b8 square grid, the middle point of the second side of the b1 square grid is connected through an arc line, and the y2 and the intersection point 15 form a small sleeve outer side structure; setting an intersection point 16 in the square grid b1, wherein the distance from the intersection point 16 to the midpoint of the fourth edge of the square grid b1 is 1/2.5 of the side length of the square grid, namely 3.1328 cm; connecting the midpoint of the second side of the b1 square grid, the intersection point 16, the midpoint of the third side of the a2 square grid and the intersection point 13 by using an arc to form a small sleeve hill structure; the small sleeve contour is composed of a crossing point 13, a point y1, a point z1, a crossing point 15, a point y2, a second side middle point of a b1 square grid, a crossing point 16 and a third side middle point of a2 square grid.

As shown in fig. 7 and 9, the drawing process of the collar piece further includes: respectively extending a collar bottom line segment kk1 and a lapel line segment ll1 on the contour structure of a front garment piece to enable the two to be intersected to generate a collar pit point, sinking a 0.5cm lower third part of a collar piece upper opening line segment k2k3 to generate a bending point, forming a collar piece upper opening structure by using an arc connecting point k2, the bending point and k3, forming a 1/2 collar piece structure by using a point k2, the bending point, k3, an intersection point 1, the collar pit point, k and k1, and sewing two identical collar 1/2 collar pieces at the center line of the back of the collar to form a complete collar piece; reserving a 1.0cm seam head on the basis of the collar piece net sample plate so as to form a wool sample plate for subsequent sewing.

A rectangular upper pocket of the western-style clothes is arranged on the front cut piece, the upper right corner of the upper pocket is set as the upper right intersection point of the grid c4, and the vertical distance between the top point of the upper left corner of the pocket and the first edge of the grid b4 is equal to 1/7 of the side length of the grid, namely 1.1188 cm; the pocket length is equal to the square side length multiplied by 1.4, i.e., 10.9648 cm, and the pocket width is 2.2 cm.

As shown in fig. 4, 5 and 7, the front cut piece drawing process further includes: raising the midpoint of a shoulder line segment kj2 of the front cut piece by 0.3cm upwards to generate a point v, and forming a new shoulder structure by using arc connecting points k, v and j 2; the middle point of the lower side cycloid of the front garment piece, which is formed by the right lower intersection point of the point r and the grid d10, protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to generate a point w, and a new lower side pendulum structure is formed by the arc connecting points r and w and the right lower intersection point of the grid d 10.

The side panel drawing process further comprises: setting the middle point of the line segment q1t as a side piece lower hem intersection point 6, wherein the lower hem intersection point 6 protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to a point w1, and forming a new side piece left lower hem structure by using arc connection points q1, w1 and t; the midpoint of the line segment p1t3 is set as a side piece lower hem intersection point 7, the lower hem intersection point 7 protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to a point x, and an arc line is used for connecting the points p1, x and t3 to form a new side piece right lower hem structure.

The drawing process of the rear garment piece further comprises the following steps: setting the middle point of the line segment pt2 as an intersection point 8, wherein the intersection point 8 protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to a point x1, and forming a new rear piece lower hem structure by using arc connection points p, x1 and t 2; the midpoint of a line segment between the intersection points on the left sides of the set points j1 and h1 squares is an intersection point 4, the intersection point 4 is concave inwards by 0.3cm to generate a point v1, and an arc line is used for connecting the points j1, v1 and h1 to form a new rear plate shoulder structure.

As shown in fig. 8 and fig. 11, the top sewing and the hem sewing are performed on the front panel, the side panel, the rear panel and the sleeve panel on the basis of the net sample plate, the top sewing of 1.0cm is performed on the front panel, the side panel, the rear panel and the sleeve panel, and the hem of 4.0cm is performed on the bottom edges of the front panel, the side panel and the rear panel and the cuffs of the sleeve panel; and the sleeve hairpin structure is arranged at the position of the outer side of the sleeve piece close to the cuff.

Claims (10)

1. A men's suit drawing method based on a grid group is characterized by comprising the steps of drawing a front garment piece, a rear garment piece, a side piece, a collar piece and a sleeve piece respectively by utilizing the grid group, wherein the grid group is formed by arraying a plurality of grids with the same size, the side length of each grid is 0.089 multiplied, and the type refers to the chest circumference of a human body;

each column of the square grid group from left to right is named in turn according to the sequence of English letters, and each row of the square grid group from top to bottom is named in turn according to the sequence of Arabic numerals; the four sides of the square are sequentially named as a first side, a second side, a third side and a fourth side from the top side in a clockwise direction; the four vertexes of the square grid are sequentially an upper left intersection point, an upper right intersection point, a lower right intersection point and a lower left intersection point;

the drawing process of the front garment piece, the rear garment piece, the collar piece and the side pieces is as follows: setting a set point i on the second side of the h1 square, wherein the distance from an upper right intersection point of the h1 square to the point i is 1/3 of the square side length, forming a rear collar oblique line by using a straight line connection point i and the upper left intersection point of the h1 square, setting a left 1/3 position of the rear collar oblique line as a point i2, and setting a line segment i2i3 vertical to the rear collar oblique line as 1/7 of the square side length; drawing a vertical line ii1 perpendicular to the second side of the h1 square grid, wherein a line segment ii1 is 1/3 of the side length of the square grid, and an arc line connecting point i, i1, i3 and the left upper intersection point of the h1 square grid form a neck pit structure of the rear garment piece; the upper left intersection point of the h1 square grid and the lower left intersection point of the f1 square grid are connected by a straight line to form a shoulder basic oblique line of the rear garment piece, the distance between the point j1 and the lower left intersection point of the f1 square grid on the shoulder basic oblique line is equal to 1/3 of the side length of the square grid, and a line segment from the point j1 to the upper left intersection point of the h1 square grid is the rear shoulder oblique line; at a second side set point j of the f2 square grid, the distance between a point j and the upper right intersection point of the f2 square grid is 1/3, a straight line is connected with the point j and the upper left intersection point of the a1 square grid to form a front shoulder basic line, the front shoulder basic line passes through the b1 square grid and generates an intersection point 1 and a point k, and the length of a line segment kj2 is equal to the length of a back shoulder oblique line to be-0.7 cm at the set point j2 on the front shoulder basic line; drawing a vertical line from the middle point of the fourth edge of the d2 square and the d3 square to the right respectively, wherein the distance between the middle point of the fourth edge of the d2 square and the point n is equal to 1/2 minus 0.9cm of the side length of the square, and the distance between the middle point of the fourth edge of the d3 square and the point n1 is equal to 1/2 of the distance between the middle point of the fourth edge of the d2 square and the point n; setting a point n2 on the fourth side of the e4 square grid, wherein the distance from the point n2 to the upper left intersection point of the e4 square grid is equal to the distance from the middle point of the fourth side of the d2 square grid to the point n minus 0.8cm, and connecting points j2, n1, n2, the upper right intersection point of the e4 square grid, the middle point of the third side of the f2 square grid and the point j1 in turn to form an arm hole structure; setting a line segment kk1 as a bottom end line of the collar piece, setting an included angle between the line segment kk1 and a front shoulder basic line as-1, setting the length of the line segment kk1 to be equal to the length of an arc line of a collar pit structure of the rear garment piece, setting the line segment kk 1k2 to be vertical to kk1, setting the line segment kk 1k2 as 1/10 of the shape minus 1.8cm, setting a line segment kk 2k3 vertical to the line segment kk 1k2, setting a point k3 as an intersection point of a first edge of a2 square and the line segment kk 2k3, setting the second side of the grid a2 as a set point 1, setting the distance between a point k3 and the point 1 to the right upper intersection point of the grid a2 to be equal, connecting the point k3 and the point l by a straight line, setting the included angle between a line segment ll1 and a line segment lk3 to be-18, setting a line segment ll1 to be 0.5cm longer than the line segment lk3, setting the right lower intersection point of the grid a6 as a button position, setting a point l2 on the third edge of the a6 square grid, wherein the distance between a point l2 and the right lower intersection point of the a6 square grid is equal to 1/5 of the side length of the square grid, and connecting a point l1, the middle point of the third edge of the a3 square grid and a point l2 in sequence by using arcs to form a refute mouth structure; at a second side set point s of the e6 square, the distance from the point s to the lower right intersection point of the e6 square is 1/3, a perpendicular line is drawn to the second side of the e6 square, so that a line segment p1s is 1/7 and a line segment sp is 1/5; at the fourth set point t2 of the f10 square, the distance from the point t2 to the lower left intersection point of the f10 square is 1/7 the side length of the square, and a perpendicular line is made perpendicular to the fourth side of the f10 square, so that a line segment t2t3 is 1/5 the side length of the square; the left lower intersection point of the f3 square grid and the point p1, the point p1 and the point t3 are respectively connected by straight lines to form a side piece side swing structure; respectively connecting the left lower intersection point of the f3 square grid with the point p, the point p with the point t2 by straight lines to form a rear piece side swing structure, and drawing a line segment t2u perpendicular to the second side of the h10 square grid to form a bottom edge structure of a rear piece; setting a point q2 on an armhole structure arc, setting a distance between a point q2 and a point n2 to be equal to 1/7 of the side length of a square grid, setting a point q1 at a position 1/3 below a second edge of the d6 square grid, setting a line segment q1q to be vertical to the second edge of the d6 square grid, wherein the length is 1/3 of the side length of the square grid, and forming an armhole province structure by using straight lines to connect the points q2 and q; a line segment t2t perpendicular to the second side of the d10 square grid is drawn, a point t1 is an intersection point of the line segment t2t and the second side of the d10 square grid, and a line segment t1t is t2t3, so that a side piece bottom edge structure is formed; the straight lines are respectively connected with the points n2 and q1, and q1 and t to form a left side seam structure of the side panel, and the contour structure of the side panel is formed by the points n2, q1, t3, p1, f3 and a left lower intersection point; setting an intersection point 2 at 1/3 below the fourth side of the square c7, drawing a line segment perpendicular to the fourth side of the d7 square with the intersection point 2 as a starting point, the end point of the line segment being r, the distance from the intersection point 2 to the point r being equal to the square side length multiplied by 1.71, setting points m1 and m2 on the line segment, the distance from the intersection point 2 to the point m1 being equal to 1/3, and the line segment m1m2 being equal to 1/7; at set point m at the left 1/3 of the third side of the c4 square, a front waist feature is constructed with straight lines connecting point m and point m1 and points m and m 2; an extension line segment rt1 to a point r1, an abdominal dart width rr1 which is 1/7 of the square grid side length, a front waist dart retraction amount r1r2 which is 1/7 of the square grid side length, and an abdominal dart and lower hem structure is formed by respectively connecting a point q with a point r2, a point r2 with a point m2, a point r with a point t1 by straight lines; a front panel circular pendulum structure is formed by respectively connecting points l2, u1, u2 and d10 with arcs at a set point u1 at the right 7/1 on the first side of a9 square grid and a set point u2 at the right 1/3 on the third side of a 10 square grid, and the front panel profile is formed by points k2, k3, l1, l2, u1, u2, d10 square grid right lower intersection point, r, m2, r2, q2, n1, n, j2, k and k 1; a set point o2 at the right 1/11 of the third side of the h3 square, a set point o1 at the right 1/3.5 of the third side of the h5 square, a set point o1 at the second side 1/3 of the h7 square, a back cut width line segment oo1 with the length equal to the side length of the square 1/3, connecting points i, o2, o3 and o in sequence by arcs, and then connecting points o1 and u by straight lines to form a back part back structure, wherein the back part outline consists of points i, o2, o3, o1, u, t2, p and e4 square right upper intersection, f2 square third side middle point, j1, h1 square left upper intersection point, i3 and point i 1.

2. The method for drawing men's suits based on grid groups according to claim 1, wherein the drawing process of the sleeve patches is as follows: a vertical line is drawn by taking the middle point of the second side of the c1 grid as a starting point, the end point of the vertical line is set as an intersection point 9, the distance between the intersection point 9 and the middle point of the second side of the c1 grid is 1/4 of the grid side length, the third side of the c2 grid is set as an intersection point 10, the distance between the intersection point 10 and the right lower intersection point of the c2 grid is 1/6 of the grid side length, the intersection point 11 is set at 1/2 of the third side of the c5 grid, the intersection point 12 is set at the right 1/7 of the third side of the b8 grid, and the intersection point 9, the intersection point 10, the intersection point 11 and the intersection point 12 are connected by arcs in sequence to form a large sleeve outer side structure; setting the upper right 1/3.5 of the first side of the b1 square grid as a crossing point 14, taking the crossing point 14 as a starting point to draw a vertical line upwards, setting the end point of the vertical line as a point y, setting the distance from the crossing point 14 to the point y as 1/5.5 of the side length of the square grid, setting a crossing point 13 at the lower 1/11 of the fourth side of the a2 square grid, and connecting the crossing point 9, the point y, the middle point of the third side of the a1 square grid and the crossing point 13 by an arc line to form a long-sleeve mountain structure; a point y1 is arranged in the square grid a5, the distance from the point y1 to the midpoint of the fourth edge of the square grid a5 is 1/7 of the side length of the square grid, a point z is set at the lower 1/4 of the fourth edge of the square grid a8, and an intersection point 13, the point y1 and the point z are connected by an arc line to form a sleeve inner side structure; in a square a8, a set point z1, a distance from a point z1 to the middle point of the third edge of the square a8 is 1/5 of the side length of the square, and an arc line is used for connecting the intersection point 12, the point z1 and the point z to form a large-sleeve cuff structure; the large sleeve contour is composed of an intersection point 9, a point y, an intersection point 13, a point y1, a point z1, an intersection point 12, an intersection point 11 and an intersection point 10; a set point y2 is set at the left 1/5 of the third side of the c3 square grid, an intersection point 15 is set at the position 1/2 of the third side of the b8 square grid, the midpoint of the second side of the b1 square grid is connected through an arc line, and the point y2 and the intersection point 15 form a small sleeve outer side structure; an intersection point 16 is set in the b1 square grid, the distance from the intersection point 16 to the midpoint of the fourth edge of the b1 square grid is 1/2.5 of the side length of the square grid, and an arc line is used for connecting the midpoint of the second edge of the b1 square grid, the intersection point 16, the midpoint of the third edge of the a2 square grid and the intersection point 13 to form a small sleeve hill structure; the small sleeve contour is composed of a crossing point 13, a point y1, a point z1, a crossing point 15, a point y2, a second side middle point of a b1 square grid, a crossing point 16 and a third side middle point of a2 square grid.

3. The method for drawing men's suits based on a checkerboard group of claim 2, wherein the drawing process of the collar piece further comprises: the contour structure of the front garment piece is respectively extended with a collar bottom line section kk1 and a lapel line section ll1 to enable the two to be intersected to generate a collar point, a 0.5cm concave part is arranged at the lower third part of a collar piece upper opening line section k2k3 to generate a bending point, an arc connecting point k2, the bending point and k3 form a collar piece upper opening structure, a 1/2 collar piece structure is formed by the point k2, the bending point, k3, the intersection point 1, the collar point, k and k1, and a complete collar piece is formed by the collar piece structures with the same two sides, namely 1/2.

4. The method for drawing men's suits based on checkerboard groups according to claim 3, wherein the front garment piece drawing process further comprises: raising the midpoint of the shoulder line segment kj2 of the front cut piece by 0.3cm upwards to generate a point v, and forming a new shoulder structure by using arc connecting points k, v and j 2; the middle point of the lower side cycloid of the front garment piece, which is formed by the right lower intersection point of the point r and the grid d10, protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to generate a point w, and a new lower side pendulum structure is formed by the arc connecting points r and w and the right lower intersection point of the grid d 10.

5. The method for drawing men's suits based on a checkerboard pattern as claimed in claim 3, wherein said side panel drawing process further comprises: setting the midpoint of the line segment q1t as a side piece lower hem intersection point 6, wherein the lower hem intersection point 6 protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to a point w1, and forming a new side piece left lower hem structure by using arc connection points q1, w1 and t; the middle point of the line segment p1t3 is set as a side piece lower hem intersection point 7, the lower hem intersection point 7 protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to a point x, and an arc line is used for connecting the points p1, x and t3 to form a new side piece right lower hem structure.

6. The method for drawing men's suits based on a checkerboard group of claim 3, wherein the back cut piece drawing process further comprises: setting the midpoint of a line segment pt2 as an intersection point 8, wherein the intersection point 8 protrudes outwards by 0.5cm to a point x1, and forming a new rear piece lower hem structure by using arc connection points p, x1 and t 2; the midpoint of the line segment between the set point j1 and the upper left intersection point of the square h1 is the intersection point 4, the intersection point 4 is concave inward by 0.3cm to generate a point v1, and the new rear shoulder structure is formed by connecting the points j1, v1 and h1 through arcs.

7. The men's suit drawing method based on square grid groups according to any one of claims 2-6, wherein the front cut piece is provided with a rectangular suit upper pocket, the upper right corner of the upper pocket is set as the upper right intersection point of the c4 square grids, the vertical distance between the vertex of the upper left corner of the pocket and the first edge of the b4 square grid is equal to 1/7 of the side length of the square grid, the length of the pocket is equal to the side length of the square grid multiplied by 1.4, and the width is equal to 2.2 cm;

8. the method for drawing men's suits based on grid groups according to any one of claims 4-6, wherein the wool patterns of the front panel, the side panels, the rear panel, the collar panel and the sleeve panel are finished by sewing and hemming on the basis of the net patterns.

9. The method for drawing men's suits based on checkerboard groups according to claim 8, wherein said front panel, side panels, rear panel, collar panel and sleeve panel are all sewn at 1.0 cm;

hems of 4.0cm are respectively arranged on the bottom edges of the front garment piece, the side pieces and the rear garment piece and the cuffs of the sleeve pieces.

10. The drawing method for men's western-style clothes based on the checkered group of claim 8, wherein the outside of the sleeve pieces near the cuffs are provided with sleeve hairpin structures.

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