CN110664038B

CN110664038B - Men's clothing drawing method

Info

Publication number: CN110664038B
Application number: CN201910964649.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 陈文强
Original assignee: Xijing University
Current assignee: Shaanxi Shenhai Industrial Group Co.,Ltd.
Priority date: 2019-10-11
Filing date: 2019-10-11
Publication date: 2021-02-02
Anticipated expiration: 2039-10-11
Also published as: CN110664038A

Abstract

The invention discloses a male garment drawing method, which comprises the following steps: (1) drawing armholes by using a flexible rule: bending the flexible rule into a gallery shape, placing the flexible rule into an armhole rectangle to be matched with the three sticking points, the front shoulder point and the rear shoulder point, and drawing an armhole arc line; (2) drawing a back cut piece and a front cut piece on the basis of armhole rectangles: drawing a back garment piece basic line, a back neckline arc line, a back shoulder arc line, a back garment piece side seam and a back garment lower hem arc line on the armhole rectangle; drawing a front garment piece basic line, a front neckline arc line, a front shoulder arc line, a front side seam arc line and a front garment piece lower hem arc line on the armhole rectangle; (3) drawing sleeve mountains: bending a flexible rule into the camber of the big sleeve hill and the small sleeve hill, placing the flexible rule into the sleeve hill rectangle, attaching the flexible rule to each point required by drawing the big sleeve hill and the small sleeve hill, and drawing the big sleeve hill and the small sleeve hill along the outer side of the flexible rule; (4) drawing sleeves: and drawing sleeves on the basis of the sleeve mountains. The method of the invention finishes the drawing of the body and the sleeve on the basis of the armhole and the sleeve cap, and has high matching degree.

Description

Men's clothing drawing method

Technical Field

The invention relates to a drawing method, in particular to a drawing method for men's clothing.

Background

For a long time, garment drawing technology is under manual or computer-assisted operation, the adopted method is more five-flower eight-door, and a strict drawing method does not exist, so that the garment structure drawing is not properly matched on parts and components, and the error is larger. For example, the collar data and shoulder data are used to draw the collar structure and shoulder structure, which are inconsistent with the overall garment model, resulting in imbalance between the components (the structures of the parts with narrow or wide shoulders, large or small collar, etc. due to improper measurement) and the overall aesthetic feeling of the garment.

For most of the techniques for drawing armholes and armholes, curve boards or manual drawing are adopted to cause the reasons of unscientific and irregular armhole and armhole curvature, large error, incomplete drawn roundness and the like, and the technique is used for burying a pen for drawing in the subsequent process. From the previous drawing sequence, technicians basically draw basic lines of front and back clothes bodies firstly and then draw armholes and armholes, so that the lengths and the curvatures of the armholes are forced, and the coordination proportion of the armholes and the whole clothes cannot be adjusted.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a drawing method for men's clothing, which solves the problem of large drawing error and incompatibility of the existing method, finishes drawing of a body and an arm piece on the basis of an armhole and has high matching degree.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a method for drawing a man's clothing, comprising:

(1) drawing armholes by using a flexible rule: adopting a flexible rule with elastic tension to bend into a shape of an armhole, placing the flexible rule into an armhole rectangular abcd to be matched with three pasting points, a front shoulder point and a rear shoulder point, pasting an inner ring of the flexible rule to draw an armhole arc line, wherein the length of the armhole arc line is the length of the flexible rule-the stitching shrinkage; wherein, the point a is the front armhole high point, the point b is the back armhole high point, the point c is the back armhole lower point, the point d is the front armhole lower point, the length of the ab side is 0.187 the human chest circumference, the length of the ad side is 0.228 the human chest circumference; drawing a front shoulder point a1 and a rear shoulder point b1 on an ab edge, wherein the impulse of the front shoulder aa1 is/20-0.4 cm of the chest circumference of a human body, and the impulse of the rear shoulder bb1 is/aa 1/2; from the rear shoulder drop point b1, making a perpendicular line from the ab edge to the rear shoulder point b2, the shoulder drop b1b2 is bb1/2-0.5 cm; drawing a front armhole sticking point d2 on the ad edge, wherein the front armhole sticking point d2 is positioned at one fourth of the ad edge close to the point d; drawing an armhole bottom pasting point d1 on the dc edge, wherein the armhole bottom pasting point d1 is positioned at one third of the position, close to the d point, of the dc edge; drawing a posterior armhole paste point c1 on the bc edge, wherein the posterior armhole paste point c1 is positioned at one half of the bc edge; the three sticking points are respectively a front armhole sticking point d2, a rear armhole sticking point c1 and an armhole bottom sticking point d 1;

(2) drawing a back cut piece and a front cut piece on the basis of the armhole rectangle abcd;

wherein, when drawing the rear garment piece, the method comprises the following steps:

(211) drawing a basic line of a back cut piece on the armhole rectangle abcd: extending the dc edge outwards from the lower point c of the posterior arm hole to the large point h of the posterior chest circumference, wherein the length of the back width ch is 0.212 x the chest circumference of the human body; from the point h of the posterior chest circumference, which is a parallel line on the cb side, to the point k of the posterior cervical vertebra, the length of the back length hk is 0.268 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.08 cm; from the parallel line of the posterior cervical vertebra point k as the hc side to the posterior collar point j1, the length of the posterior collar width kj1 is 0.082 plus 0.08cm of the chest circumference of the human body; a vertical line from a back collar point j1 to a back upper collar point j with a back collar width kj1 is drawn, and the length of the back collar height jj1 is kj 1/3; an extension line of a kh side is made outwards from a large point h of the chest circumference to a back waist node n, and the length of the chest waist distance hn is equal to the number/4-hk; an extension line of the chest waist distance hn is made outwards from the back waist node n to a back clothes length point m, and the length of the length nm below the back waist is hk/2+ hn; from the parallel line of the hc side of the back waist node n to the back waist big point n1, the length of the back waist big nn1 is ch-1.0; from the long point m of the back clothes, the parallel line of the back waist large nn1 to the swinging point m1 of the back clothes, the length of the swinging point mm1 of the back clothes is ch +1.0 cm; from a parallel line of mn side of the back clothes pendulum point m1 to a back clothes pendulum lifting point m2, wherein the back clothes pendulum lifting m1m2 is kj1/3-0.9 cm;

(212) drawing a rear neckline arc line on the basis of the rear garment piece basic line: a rear cervical vertebra point k and a rear upper collar point j are connected in a straight line, a rear collar drop foot point k1 is drawn at 1/3 which is close to the rear upper collar point j on a kj line segment, a perpendicular line of the kj line segment is made from the rear collar drop foot point k1 to a rear collar arc height point k2, k1k2 is kj1/3-1.3cm, and the rear cervical vertebra point k, the rear collar arc height point k2 and the rear upper collar point j are connected by an arc line to form a rear collar arc line;

(213) drawing a back shoulder arc line on the basis of the back cut piece basic line: the back upper neck point j and the back shoulder point b2 are connected by a straight line, the shoulder vertical arc amount is vertically made downwards at the midpoint of the jb2 line segment, and the back upper neck point j, the end point of the shoulder vertical arc amount and the back shoulder point b2 are connected by an arc line to form a back shoulder arc line;

(214) drawing the side seams of the back cut pieces on the basis of the basic lines of the back cut pieces: drawing armhole upwarping points o on the bc edge, wherein the length of armhole upwarping line segments co is 0.056 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.1 cm; crossing a parallel line which is used as a cd edge from an armhole upwarping point o to an armhole cutting point o1 with an armhole arc line, linearly connecting the armhole cutting point o1 with a back waist big point n1, a back waist big point n1 and a back clothes swing upwarping point m2, vertically making a back upper side seam vertical arc amount from the midpoint of o1n1 to the upper side thereof, wherein the back upper side seam vertical arc amount is 0.003 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.04cm, vertically making a back lower side seam vertical arc amount from the midpoint of n1m2 to the upper side thereof, and the back lower side seam vertical arc amount is 0.005 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.06cm, and connecting the armhole cutting point o1, the end point of the back upper side seam vertical arc amount, the back waist big point n1, the end point of the back lower side seam vertical arc amount and the back clothes swing upwarping point m2 by arc lines to form a back clothes piece side seam;

(215) drawing a lower hem arc line of the back garment on the basis of the basic line of the back garment piece: the rear garment length point m and the rear garment swing upwarping point m2 are connected in a straight line, the downward bending vertical arc quantity of the rear garment is vertically made from the middle point of the line segment m2m to the lower side of the line segment, the downward bending vertical arc quantity of the rear garment is 0.001 times of the chest circumference of a human body, and the rear garment length point m, the end point of the downward bending vertical arc quantity of the rear garment and the rear garment swing upwarping point m2 are connected by an arc line to form a rear garment lower swing arc line;

when the front cut piece is drawn, the method comprises the following steps:

(221) drawing a basic line of a front cut piece on the armhole rectangle abcd: extending the cd edge outwards from the lower point d of the forearm to a greater point g of the chest circumference, wherein the length of a chest width line dg is 0.212 x the chest circumference of the human body; making a parallel line of the side da from the front chest circumference large point g to the front neckline point e, wherein the length of the front chest high line ge is 0.268 multiplied by the chest circumference of the human body +0.08 cm; a parallel line of gd is drawn from a front collar point e to a front collar width point f, and the length of a front transverse opening collar ef is dg/2; drawing a front neckline depth point e1 on a high front chest line ge, wherein the length of a straight opening neckline ee1 is 0.082 plus 0.08cm of the chest circumference of the human body;

(222) drawing a front neckline arc line on the basis of the front garment piece basic line: connecting a front neckline depth point e1 with a front neckline width point f by a straight line, drawing a front neckline drop foot point f1 at 1/3 on a line segment fe1 close to the front neckline width point f, making a perpendicular line of fe1 from the front neckline drop foot point f1 to a front neckline arc amount point f2, wherein the length of f1f2 is kj1/3-0.6, and connecting the front neckline width point f, the front neckline arc amount point f2 and the front neckline depth point e1 by an arc line to form a front neckline arc line;

(223) drawing a front shoulder arc line on the basis of the basic line of the front cut piece: a front neckline width point f and a front shoulder point a1 are connected by a straight line to form a shoulder auxiliary line fa1, the protrusion vertical arc amount is vertically made from the middle point of the shoulder auxiliary line fa1 to the upper side of the shoulder auxiliary line fa, the protrusion vertical arc amount is 0.005 x the chest circumference of a human body and is +0.06cm, and the front neckline width point f, the end point of the protrusion vertical arc amount and the front shoulder point a1 are connected by an arc line to form a front shoulder arc line;

(224) drawing a front side seam arc line on the basis of the basic line of the front cut piece: extending a line section eg from the chest circumference big point g to a front clothes long point q, wherein the length of the line section eq is 0.44 +0.2 cm; drawing a perpendicular line of a line segment eq from a front garment length point q to a front garment swinging point q1, wherein the length of the line segment qq1 is gc +1.0 cm; a perpendicular line of a line qq1 is drawn from a front clothes swing point q1 to a front clothes swing raising point q 2; setting a front waist distance point p on a line segment eq, wherein the length of a line segment ep is 0.25; making a perpendicular line of a line segment eq from the front waist distance point p to a front waist circumference large point p1, wherein the length of the line segment pp1 is gc-2.0 cm; straight lines are respectively connected with an armhole cutting point o1, a front waist circumference large point p1, a front waist circumference large point p1 and a front clothing swing upwarping point q2, front upper side seam vertical arc amount and front lower side seam vertical arc amount are respectively made from the middle points of line segments o1p1 and p1q2, the front upper side seam vertical arc amount is 0.005-0.06 cm of the chest circumference of the human body, and an arc line is connected with an armhole cutting point o1, the end point of the front upper side seam vertical arc amount, the front waist circumference large point p1, the end point of the front lower side seam vertical arc amount and the front clothing swing upwarping point q2 to form a front side seam arc line;

(225) drawing a front garment lower hem arc line on the basis of the front garment piece basic line: the front garment length point q and the front garment swing upwarping point q2 are connected in a straight line, the front garment downward bending vertical arc amount is vertically taken from the middle point of a line segment q2q to the lower side of the line segment, the front garment downward bending vertical arc amount is 0.002 x the chest circumference of a human body and is +0.02cm, and the front garment length point q, the end point of the front garment downward bending vertical arc amount and the front garment swing upwarping point q2 are connected by an arc line to form a front garment downward swinging arc line;

(3) drawing sleeve mountains: bending a flexible rule into the camber of a big sleeve hill and a small sleeve hill, placing the flexible rule into the sleeve hill rectangle rstv, attaching the flexible rule to each point required by drawing the big sleeve hill and the small sleeve hill, and drawing the big sleeve hill and the small sleeve hill along the outer side of the flexible rule; wherein, the r point is the left upper sleeve mountain point, the s point is the right upper sleeve mountain point, the v point is the sleeve root point, the t point is the sleeve fertilizer point, the sleeve width rs is 0.253 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.07cm, the sleeve height rv is 0.195 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.08 cm; drawing a sleeve hill point s1 on the sleeve hill width rs, wherein the sleeve hill position ss1 is 0.093-human body chest circumference +0.01 cm; drawing a sleeve root upper point v1 on the sleeve mountain height rv, wherein the sleeve root position vv1 is 0.006-0.02 cm of the chest circumference of the human body; from the upper point v1 of the sleeve root as the vertical line of the sleeve mountain height rv to the inner opening point v2 of the small sleeve, the folding v1v2 of the sleeve path is 0.037 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.04 cm; drawing an arm-strong point u on the st edge, wherein the length of a line segment su is 0.061 x the chest circumference of the human body, a perpendicular line from the arm-strong point u to the st edge is drawn to a small sleeve outer opening point u1, and the small sleeve deviation uu1 is 0.028 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.09 cm; each point required by the big sleeve mountain drawing is an arm strong point u, an arm mountain point s1 and an arm base upper point v1, and each point required by the small sleeve mountain drawing is a small sleeve inner notch point v2 and a small sleeve outer notch point u 1;

(4) drawing sleeves: and drawing sleeves on the basis of the sleeve mountains.

Preferably, the sleeve is a large sleeve body, and the drawing comprises: drawing on the basis of an sleeve mountain structure, extending an rv edge from a sleeve root point v to a sleeve length point w, wherein a sleeve length increasing line segment vw is 0.244 +0.07 cm; from the sleeve length point w, making a vertical line of the sleeve length increasing line segment vw to the cuff point w1, wherein the cuff big line segment ww1 is 0.2 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.05 cm; from cuff point w1 as the vertical line of cuff large line segment ww1 to cuff lower point w2, cuff lower oblique line segment w1w2 is 0.017 x the chest circumference of human body +0.06 cm; drawing an x point on the sleeve length increasing line segment vw, wherein the sleeve elbow line segment vx is 0.11 +0.14 cm; from the point x, the vertical line of the segment vw for increasing the length of the sleeve to the concave point x1 of the sleeve elbow, wherein the length of xx1 is 0.013 plus 0.06cm of the chest circumference of the human body; the straight line connects the sleeve strong point u and the cuff bottom point w2, and intersects the extension line of xx1 and the vt side at one point respectively, the outward protrusion amount of the sleeve fertilizer is 0.028 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.04cm from the intersection point of the vt side to the vt side, the outward protrusion amount of the sleeve fertilizer is 0.034 x the chest circumference of the human body from the intersection point of the extension line of xx 1; the upper point v1 of the sleeve root, the concave point x1 of the sleeve elbow, the long point w of the sleeve, the lower point w2 of the cuff, the end point of the convex amount of the sleeve elbow, the end point of the convex amount of the sleeve fat and the sleeve strong point u are connected by an arc line to form a large sleeve body structure.

Preferably, the sleeve is a small sleeve body, and the drawing comprises: drawing on the basis of the large sleeve body, drawing a point y on a cuff large line segment ww1, wherein the length of wy is 0.037 of the chest circumference of the human body, and the length of wy is v1v 2; extending xx1 to a point z outwards from a concave point x1 of the sleeve elbow, wherein x1z has the length v1v2 which is 0.037 of the chest circumference of the human body; making the outward convex amount of the sleeve fertilizer inwards along the edge of the outward convex amount of the sleeve fertilizer as a narrow-in amount of the small-sleeve fertilizer, wherein the narrow-in amount of the small-sleeve fertilizer is 0.028 plus 0.04cm of the chest circumference of the human body; the protruding amount of the sleeve elbow is inwards used as the narrow entering amount of the small sleeve elbow along the edge of the protruding amount of the sleeve elbow, and the narrow entering amount of the small sleeve elbow is 0.017 times of the chest circumference of the human body; the small sleeve inner opening points v2, z and y, the cuff lower point w2, the end point of the small sleeve elbow narrow advance, the end point of the small sleeve fat narrow advance and the small sleeve outer opening point u1 are connected by arcs to form a small sleeve body structure.

Preferably, the flexible rule consists of a big sleeve mountain flexible rule and a small sleeve mountain flexible rule; wherein, the soft ruler of the big sleeve mountain and the soft ruler of the small sleeve mountain are both provided with scales; one end of the cuff flexible rule is provided with a plug, and the other end of the cuff flexible rule is provided with a first handle; one end of the small sleeve mountain flexible rule is provided with a jack matched with the plug of the large sleeve mountain flexible rule, and the other end of the small sleeve mountain flexible rule is provided with a second handle; the plug of the big sleeve mountain flexible rule and the jack of the small sleeve mountain flexible rule are inserted together to form the flexible rule.

Preferably, the diameters of the large sleeve mountain flexible rule and the small sleeve mountain flexible rule are consistent; the maximum scale of the large sleeve hill flexible ruler is 0.375X the chest circumference of the human body, and the maximum scale of the small sleeve hill flexible ruler is 0.255X the chest circumference of the human body plus 0.06 cm.

Preferably, the length of the tape is 0.63 × body circumference of chest +0.06 cm.

Preferably, the amount of stitching is 4.5 cm.

Preferably, the amount of the shoulder sag is 0.5 cm.

Preferably, the length of the line segment q1q2 is 2.0 cm.

Preferably, the amount of downward bending vertical arc is vertically made from the middle point of the line qq1 to the lower side thereof, the amount of downward bending vertical arc is 0.002 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.02cm, and the front garment length point q, the end point of the amount of downward bending vertical arc and the front garment swing point q1 are connected by an arc line.

The male garment drawing method solves the problem of great drawing error and incompatibility of the existing method, and has the following advantages:

(1) the method of the invention, use the plastic tubing with elastic tension to make two parts of the soft ruler of the big sleeve cap and soft ruler of the small sleeve cap, bend the soft ruler into the shape of the armhole or big sleeve cap and little sleeve cap arc and place it in the armhole rectangle or armhole rectangle to match with the sticking point, draw armhole or big sleeve cap and little sleeve cap, match and their rigor to the armhole and sleeve cap, the length of the armhole is confirmed through the total length of the soft ruler and the amount of seam shrinkage, the armhole and sleeve cap drawn are highly accurate, easy to operate and convenient, and easy to match, and the amount of seam shrinkage is drawn out and shrunk by the traction band when attaching the sleeve cap, play the cambering role of the sleeve cap;

(2) in the method, the adopted flexible rule is provided with scales and is easy to identify and draw, and the flexible rule design comprises two parts; the flexible ruler can be combined and disassembled, complete armholes are drawn after combination, the large and small armholes are drawn after disassembly, the matching degree is high, the operation is easy, the length of the flexible ruler is calculated according to the chest circumference ratio of a human body, and the flexible ruler conforms to the golden ratio;

(3) the method breaks through the traditional drawing method, finishes drawing the body and the sleeve on the basis of the drawn armhole and the armhole, is scientific and efficient, and has balanced and attractive structure;

(4) in the method, the body and the sleeve are drawn on the basis of the drawn armhole and the drawn armhole, the traditional drawing method is broken through, the chest circumference of the human body is calculated when the girth size is drawn, and the number is calculated when the length is drawn, so that the drawing efficiency is greatly improved;

(5) according to the method, the small sleeves are drawn by means of the large sleeve bodies, the operation is simple, the matching is accurate, the drawing efficiency is high, the large sleeve bodies and the small sleeve bodies are sewn to form the complete sleeve bodies, only the outer side curvature of the large sleeve bodies is slightly bent to the outer side of the small sleeve bodies, the inner side curvatures of the large sleeve bodies and the inner side curvature of the small sleeve bodies are the same, the respective sleeve mountain curvatures of the large sleeve bodies and the small sleeve bodies are different, and the large sleeve bodies are wide and convex in sleeve mountains, and the small sleeve bodies are narrow and concave in sleeve mountains from the overall shape of the large sleeve bodies and the small sleeve bodies.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a flow chart of a method for drawing men's clothing according to the invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic structural view of a large sleeve flexible rule and a small sleeve flexible rule according to the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of the insertion of the soft ruler with big sleeve and the soft ruler with small sleeve according to the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic structural diagram of the armhole rectangle and each point for drawing the armhole arc line according to the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of drawing armhole arc lines by the armhole flexible rule of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the present invention drawing back cut piece and front cut piece based on armhole rectangle abcd.

FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram of the basic line of the back cut piece drawn on the basis of the armhole rectangle abcd according to the present invention.

FIG. 8 is a schematic view of drawing a neckline arc, a back shoulder arc and a back garment piece side seam on the basis of a back garment piece basic line according to the present invention.

FIG. 9 is a schematic diagram of the basic line of the front cut piece drawn on the basis of the armhole rectangle abcd according to the present invention.

FIG. 10 is a schematic view showing the drawing of a front neckline arc on the basis of a base line of a front panel according to the present invention.

Fig. 11 is a schematic view of the front neckline arc and the front shoulder arc of the present invention.

Fig. 12 is a schematic view of the armhole rectangle rstv of the present invention and points for drawing the armhole.

FIG. 13 is a schematic diagram of the present invention using a large sleeve soft ruler and a small sleeve soft ruler to draw a large sleeve and a small sleeve.

FIG. 14 is a schematic view of a big sleeve and a small sleeve according to the present invention.

Fig. 15 is a schematic drawing of a large sleeve body according to the present invention.

Fig. 16 is a schematic view of the arc connection when the large sleeve body is drawn according to the invention.

Fig. 17 is a schematic view of the body structure of the large sleeve drawn according to the present invention.

Fig. 18 is a schematic view of a small sleeve body according to the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

A method for drawing a man's clothing is shown in fig. 1, which is a flow chart of the method for drawing a man's clothing of the invention, and comprises the following steps:

(1) manufacturing a flexible rule: the large sleeve mountain flexible rule and the small sleeve mountain flexible rule are made of plastic with elastic tension, as shown in figure 2, the structural schematic diagram of the large sleeve mountain flexible rule and the small sleeve mountain flexible rule is shown, one end of the large sleeve mountain flexible rule is provided with a plug, the other end of the large sleeve mountain flexible rule is provided with a first handle, one end of the small sleeve mountain flexible rule is provided with a jack matched with the plug of the large sleeve mountain flexible rule, the other end of the small sleeve mountain flexible rule is provided with a second handle, and the first handle and the second handle are used for manually bending the flexible rules. The plug of the large armhole flexible ruler and the jack of the small armhole flexible ruler are inserted together to form the armhole flexible ruler, the length of the armhole flexible ruler is calculated according to the chest circumference ratio of the human body, and the length of the armhole flexible ruler is 0.63 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.06cm and is close to the golden ratio. The soft ruler with the big sleeve cap and the plug thereof and the soft ruler with the small sleeve cap are provided with scales, and the plug of the soft ruler with the big sleeve cap can be used for increasing the radian of the armhole and the sleeve cap when the chest circumference is enlarged. Wherein, the maximum scale of the large sleeve hill flexible rule is 0.375X the chest circumference of the human body, and the maximum scale of the small sleeve hill flexible rule is 0.255X the chest circumference of the human body plus 0.06 cm.

(2) Drawing armholes by using a flexible rule: as shown in figure 3, which is a schematic diagram of the splicing of the large-sleeve flexible ruler and the small-sleeve flexible ruler of the invention, the plug of the large-sleeve flexible ruler and the jack of the small-sleeve flexible ruler are inserted together to form the armhole flexible ruler, the armhole flexible ruler is pinched by hands to be bent into a certain armhole shape and is placed in an armhole rectangular abcd to be matched with three sticking points, a front shoulder point and a back shoulder point, and the inner ring of the flexible ruler is stuck to draw the armhole.

As shown in fig. 4, the present invention is a schematic structural diagram of an armhole rectangle and each point for drawing an armhole arc line, wherein, a point is a front armhole high point, b point is a back armhole high point, c point is a back armhole lower point, d point is a front armhole lower point, ab side length is 0.187 human body chest circumference, ad side length is 0.228 human body chest circumference, and is used for drawing the armhole rectangle; drawing an anterior shoulder point a1, a posterior shoulder point b2, a posterior shoulder point b1, an anterior cuff pasting point d2, a posterior cuff pasting point c1 and an cuff bottom pasting point d1 on an cuff rectangle abcd, wherein an anterior shoulder momentum aa1 is equal to the chest circumference/20-0.4 cm of a human body, a posterior shoulder momentum bb1 is equal to aa1/2, b1b2 is shoulder drop, b1b2 is perpendicular to ab, and b1b2 is equal to bb1/2-0.5cm and is used for drawing anterior and posterior shoulder width and upper endpoint of the cuff; the front armhole pasting point d2 is located at one fourth of the ad edge near the d point, the back armhole pasting point c1 is located at one half of the bc edge, the armhole bottom pasting point d1 is located at one third of the dc edge near the d point, and the front armhole pasting point d2, the back armhole pasting point c1 and the armhole bottom pasting point d1 are used as pasting points for placing an armhole soft ruler.

After the points are drawn, as shown in fig. 5, which is a schematic diagram of the invention for drawing the armhole arc lines by using an armhole flexible rule, the armhole flexible rule is placed in an armhole rectangular abcd, and is attached to a front shoulder point a1, a front armhole attaching point d2, an armhole bottom attaching point d1, a back armhole attaching point c1 and a back shoulder point b2 from one end to the other end, and the armhole arc lines are drawn along the inner side edge of the armhole flexible rule.

The length of armhole is the total length of flexible rule-shrinkage, when drawing, the length of flexible rule minus shrinkage is placed in armhole rectangle abcd to draw, and the shrinkage can be regulated according to the style of clothes.

(3) Drawing front and back cut pieces: and drawing the back cut piece and the front cut piece on the basis of the drawn armhole rectangle abcd.

Fig. 6 is a schematic diagram of drawing a rear garment piece and a front garment piece on the basis of an armhole rectangle abcd, and fig. 7 is a schematic diagram of drawing a base line of the rear garment piece on the basis of the armhole rectangle abcd, wherein when the rear garment piece is drawn, a rear chest circumference large point h, a rear cervical vertebra point k, a rear upper neck point j, a rear neck point j1, a rear waist node n, a rear waist large point n1, a rear garment length point m, a rear garment hem point m1 and a rear garment hem point m2 are drawn for drawing a base line of the rear garment piece.

Extending the dc edge outwards from the lower point c of the posterior arm hole to a large point h of the posterior chest circumference to form a back width ch, wherein the length of the back width ch is 0.212 x the chest circumference of the human body; forming a back length hk from a parallel line with the cb side from the point h of the large chest circumference to the point k of the posterior cervical vertebra, wherein the length of the back length hk is 0.268 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.08 cm; forming a back collar width kj1 from a parallel line of the hc side of the back cervical vertebra point k to a back collar point j1, wherein the length of the back collar width kj1 is 0.082-cm-plus-0.08 cm of the chest circumference of the human body; forming a back collar height jj1 from a back collar point j1 to a back upper collar point j by making a perpendicular line of the back collar width kj1, wherein the length of the back collar height jj1 is kj 1/3; an extension line of a kh side is made outwards from a large point h of the chest circumference to a back waist node n to form a chest waist distance hn, and the length of the chest waist distance hn is equal to the number/4-hk; an extension line of the chest waist distance hn is made outwards from the back waist node n to the back clothes length point m to form the length nm below the back waist, and the length of the length nm below the back waist is hk/2+ hn; forming a back waist large nn1 from a parallel line of the hc side of the back waist node n to a back waist large point n1, wherein the length of the back waist large nn1 is ch-1.0; from the back clothes length point m, a parallel line of the back waist large nn1 to a back clothes swinging point m1, a back clothes swing large mm1 is formed, and the length of the back clothes swing large mm1 is ch +1.0 cm; from a parallel line of mn sides of the back clothes pendulum point m1 to a back clothes pendulum lifting point m2, a back clothes pendulum lifting m1m2 is formed, and the back clothes pendulum lifting m1m2 is kj1/3-0.9 cm.

As shown in fig. 8, the drawing of the neckline arc, the back shoulder arc and the side seam of the back cut piece based on the back cut piece basic line of the invention is shown, and the back neck foot hanging point k1 and the back neck arc high point k2 are drawn based on the drawn back cut piece basic line and are used for drawing the neckline radian of the back cut piece. The rear cervical vertebra point k and the rear upper collar point j are connected by a straight line, a rear collar drop foot point k1 is drawn at 1/3 which is close to the rear upper collar point j on a kj line segment, a perpendicular line of the kj line segment is made from the rear collar drop foot point k1 to a rear collar arc height point k2, k1k2 is kj1/3-1.3cm, and the rear cervical vertebra point k, the rear collar arc height point k2 and the rear upper collar point j are connected by an arc line to form a rear collar arc line.

The straight line connects the back upper neck point j and the back shoulder point b2, the midpoint of the jb2 line segment is downward vertical to make the amount of the shoulder vertical arc, and the arc line connects the back upper neck point j, the end point of the shoulder vertical arc and the back shoulder point b2 to form the back shoulder arc.

And (4) drawing armhole upwarping points o on the bc edge, wherein the length of the armhole upwarping line segment co is 0.056 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.1 cm. The parallel line of the cd edge is taken from the armhole warping high point o and is intersected with the armhole arc line to the armhole cutting point o1, and the armhole cutting point o1 is used for armhole segmentation. The sleeve cutting point o1, the back waist big point n1, the back waist big point n1 and the back garment hem lifting point m2 are connected in a straight line, the back upper side seam vertical arc amount is vertically made from the midpoint of o1n1 to the upper side, the back upper side seam vertical arc amount is 0.003 plus the human chest circumference plus 0.04cm, the back lower side seam vertical arc amount is vertically made from the midpoint of n1m2 to the upper side, the back lower side seam vertical arc amount is 0.005 plus the human chest circumference plus 0.06cm, and the sleeve cutting point o1, the end point of the back upper side seam vertical arc amount, the back waist big point n1, the end point of the back lower side seam vertical arc amount and the back garment hem lifting point m2 are connected by arc lines to form a back garment side seam.

The rear garment length point m and the rear garment swing upwarping point m2 are connected in a straight line, the downward bending vertical arc quantity of the rear garment is vertically made from the middle point of the line segment m2m to the lower side of the line segment, the downward bending vertical arc quantity of the rear garment is 0.001 times of the chest circumference of a human body, and the rear garment length point m, the end point of the downward bending vertical arc quantity of the rear garment and the rear garment swing upwarping point m2 are connected through arc lines to form a rear garment downward swinging arc line.

As shown in fig. 9, the drawing of the basic line of the front cut piece based on the armhole rectangle abcd according to the present invention is illustrated, wherein, when drawing the front cut piece, a front neckline width point f, a front neckline point e, a front neckline depth point e1, a front chest circumference large point g, a front waist distance point p, a front waist circumference large point p1, a front garment length point q, a front garment swing point q1, and a front garment swing warping point q2 are drawn for drawing the basic line of the front cut piece.

Extending the cd edge outwards from the lower point d of the forearm to a greater point g of the chest circumference to form a chest width line dg, wherein the length of the chest width line dg is 0.212 x the chest circumference of the human body; making a parallel line of the side da from the large point g of the anterior chest circumference to the front neckline point e to form a high front chest line ge, wherein the length of the high front chest line ge is 0.268 multiplied by the chest circumference of the human body +0.08 cm; forming a front transverse opening collar ef from a parallel line of the front collar point e to a front collar width point f, wherein the length of the front transverse opening collar ef is dg/2; an anterior neck depth point e1 is plotted on the anterior chest high line ge to form a straight open neck ee1, and the length of the straight open neck ee1 is 0.082 × +0.08cm of the circumference of the chest of the human body.

As shown in fig. 10, a front neckline arc is drawn on the basis of a front garment base line according to the present invention, and as shown in fig. 11, a front neckline arc and a front shoulder arc according to the present invention are drawn, a straight line is used to connect a front neckline depth point e1 and a front neckline width point f, a front neckline drop point f1 is drawn on a segment fe1 at 1/3 near the front neckline width point f, a perpendicular line of fe1 is made from the front neckline drop point f1 to a front neckline drop amount point f2, the length of f1f2 is kj1/3-0.6, and an arc is used to connect the front neckline width point f, the front neckline drop amount point f2 and the front neckline depth point e1 to form the front neckline arc.

A front neckline width point f and a front shoulder point a1 are connected by a straight line to form a shoulder auxiliary line fa1, the protrusion vertical arc amount is vertically made from the middle point of the shoulder auxiliary line fa1 to the upper side of the shoulder auxiliary line fa, the protrusion vertical arc amount is 0.005 x the chest circumference of a human body and is +0.06cm, and the front neckline width point f, the end point of the protrusion vertical arc amount and a front shoulder point a1 are connected by an arc line to form a front shoulder arc line.

A line section eg extends outwards from a chest circumference large point g to a front clothes long point q, and the length of the line section eq is 0.44 +0.2cm + 0.44 + 170+0.2 cm-75 cm. From the front garment length point q, the vertical line of the line eq is drawn to the front garment swing point q1, and the length of the line qq1 is gc +1.0 cm-0.212 bust +0.187 bust +1.0 cm-0.399 + 88+1.0 cm-36.112 cm. From a perpendicular line drawn from a front garment swing point q1 to a line qq1 to a front garment swing lift point q2, a line q1q2 is 2.0cm in length. A front waist pitch point p is provided on the line segment eq, and the length of the line segment ep is 0.25cm to 170cm to 42.5 cm. From the front waist distance point p, the perpendicular line of the line segment eq is drawn to the front waist circumference large point p1, and the length of the line segment pp1 is gc-2.0 cm-0.212 bust +0.187 bust-2.0 cm-0.399 bust-2.0 cm-33.112 cm. Straight lines are respectively connected with an armhole cutting point o1, a front waist circumference large point p1, a front waist circumference large point p1 and a front clothing swing upwarping point q2, front upper side seam vertical arc amount and front lower side seam vertical arc amount are respectively made from the middle points of line segments o1p1 and p1q2, the front upper side seam vertical arc amount is 0.005-0.06 cm of the chest circumference of the human body, and an arc line is connected with an armhole cutting point o1, the end point of the front upper side seam vertical arc amount, the front waist circumference large point p1, the end point of the front lower side seam vertical arc amount and the front clothing swing upwarping point q2 to form a front side seam arc line.

The front garment length point q and the front garment swing upwarping point q2 are connected in a straight line, the front garment downward bending vertical arc amount is vertically taken from the middle point of the line segment q2q to the lower side of the line segment, the front garment downward bending vertical arc amount is 0.002 x the chest circumference of a human body and is +0.02cm, and the front garment length point q, the end point of the front garment downward bending vertical arc amount and the front garment swing upwarping point q2 are connected through an arc line to form a front garment downward swinging arc line.

And (3) vertically making a downward bending vertical arc quantity from the middle point of the line qq1 to the lower side of the line qq1, wherein the downward bending vertical arc quantity is 0.002 x the chest circumference of the human body and 0.02cm, and is used for meeting the requirement of the parallelism of the bottom edge of the garment.

(4) Drawing sleeve mountains: and respectively bending the large sleeve cap flexible ruler and the small sleeve cap flexible ruler into the camber of the large sleeve cap and the small sleeve cap, and placing the large sleeve cap flexible ruler and the small sleeve cap flexible ruler into the sleeve cap rectangle rstv for drawing.

As shown in fig. 12, a schematic diagram of the sleeve-hill rectangle rstv of the present invention and the points for drawing the sleeve-hill is shown, in the sleeve-hill rectangle rstv, the r point is the left upper sleeve-hill point, the s point is the right upper sleeve-hill point, the v point is the sleeve root point, and the t point is the sleeve fat point. And drawing an upper sleeve root point v1, a small sleeve inner opening point v2, an sleeve top point s1, an arm strong point u and a small sleeve outer opening point u1 in the sleeve top rectangle rstv for drawing an sleeve top structure.

In the cuff rectangle rstv, the width rs of the cuff is 0.253 and the chest circumference of the human body is +0.07cm, and the height rv of the cuff is 0.195 and the chest circumference of the human body is +0.08 cm. The sleeve-top point s1 is drawn on the sleeve-top width rs to form the sleeve-top position ss1, and the sleeve-top position ss1 is 0.093-human body chest circumference +0.01 cm. Drawing a point v1 on the sleeve root on the sleeve mountain height rv to form a sleeve root position vv1, wherein the sleeve root position vv1 is 0.006-0.02 cm of the chest circumference of the human body. From the point v1 on the sleeve root, the vertical line of the sleeve mountain height rv to the point v2 at the inner opening of the small sleeve, the sleeve fold v1v2 is formed, and the sleeve fold v1v2 is 0.037 ═ 0.04cm of the chest circumference of the human body. Drawing a sleeve strong point u on the st edge, wherein the length of a line segment su is 0.061 x human body chest circumference, a small sleeve deviation uu1 is formed from a perpendicular line drawn from the sleeve strong point u as the st edge to a small sleeve outer opening point u1, and the small sleeve deviation uu1 is 0.028 x human body chest circumference +0.09 cm.

As shown in fig. 13, which is a schematic diagram of drawing a big sleeve mountain and a small sleeve mountain by using a big sleeve mountain flexible rule and a small sleeve mountain flexible rule, as shown in fig. 14, which is a schematic diagram of the big sleeve mountain and the small sleeve mountain drawn by the present invention, the big sleeve mountain flexible rule is bent and placed in a sleeve mountain rectangular rstv, two ends of the big sleeve mountain flexible rule are attached to a sleeve root upper point v1 and a sleeve strong point u, one point of the big sleeve mountain flexible rule is attached to a sleeve mountain point s1, the flexible rule is bent and protruded upwards, the sleeve mountain head is similar to a steamed bun-shaped structure, and the big sleeve mountain structure is drawn along the outer side of the big sleeve mountain flexible rule. The small sleeve cap flexible ruler is bent and placed in the sleeve cap rectangle rstv, two ends of the small sleeve cap flexible ruler are attached to a small sleeve inner opening point v2 and a small sleeve outer opening point u1, the flexible ruler is bent downwards and recessed, the sleeve cap is in a crescent structure, and the small sleeve cap structure is drawn along the outer side of the small sleeve cap flexible ruler.

(5) Drawing sleeves: and drawing sleeves on the basis of the sleeve mountains.

As shown in fig. 15, which is a schematic diagram of the large sleeve drawing of the present invention, when the large sleeve is drawn, drawing is performed on the basis of the sleeve cap structure, and an increased sleeve length line vw is formed by extending rv side from the sleeve root point v to the sleeve length point w, where the increased sleeve length line vw is 0.244 +0.07 cm. The cuff large line segment ww1 is formed from the sleeve length point w to the cuff point w1, and the cuff large line segment ww1 is 0.2 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.05 cm. A cuff lower oblique line segment w1w2 is formed from a cuff point w1 as a vertical line of a cuff large line segment ww1 to a cuff lower point w2, and the cuff lower oblique line segment w1w2 is 0.017 x the chest circumference of the human body and is 0.06 cm. Drawing x points on the increased sleeve length line vw to form a sleeve elbow line vx which is 0.11 +0.14 cm. From the point x, the perpendicular line of the segment vw for increasing the length of the sleeve to the concave point x1 of the sleeve elbow, the length of xx1 is 0.013 +0.06cm of the chest circumference of the human body. The straight line connects the sleeve strong point u and the cuff bottom point w2, and intersects the extension line of xx1 and the vt side at one point respectively, the outward protrusion amount of the sleeve fat is made from the intersection point of the vt side along the vt side to the direction of the t point, the outward protrusion amount of the sleeve fat is 0.028 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.04cm, the outward protrusion amount of the sleeve elbow is made from the intersection point of the extension line of xx1, and the protrusion amount of the sleeve elbow is 0.034 x the chest circumference of the human body. Fig. 16 is a schematic diagram of arc connection when drawing a large sleeve body according to the present invention, and an arc line is used to connect an upper point v1 of a sleeve root, a concave point x1 of a sleeve elbow, a point w of a sleeve length, a lower point w2 of a cuff, an end point of a projecting amount of the sleeve elbow, an end point of a projecting amount of a sleeve fat and a sleeve strong point u to form a large sleeve body structure, as shown in fig. 17, which is a schematic diagram of a large sleeve body structure drawn according to the present invention.

As shown in fig. 18, a schematic diagram of the small sleeve body drawing of the present invention is shown, when the small sleeve body is drawn, the small sleeve body is drawn on the basis of the large sleeve body, a y point is drawn on the cuff large line segment ww1, and the length of wy is 0.037 x the length of the human body chest circumference, i.e., v1v 2. Extending xx1 outwards from the elbow concave point x1 to the point z, the length of x1z is equal to v1v2 is equal to 0.037 times the chest circumference of the human body. Making the outward convex amount of the sleeve fertilizer inwards along the edge of the outward convex amount of the sleeve fertilizer as a narrow-in amount of the small-sleeve fertilizer, wherein the narrow-in amount of the small-sleeve fertilizer is 0.028 plus 0.04cm of the chest circumference of the human body; and (3) inwards making the elbow protruding amount of the sleeve as the elbow narrow advance amount of the small sleeve along the edge of the elbow protruding amount of the small sleeve, wherein the elbow narrow advance amount of the small sleeve is 0.017 by the bust of the human body. The small sleeve inner opening points v2, z and y, the cuff lower point w2, the end point of the small sleeve elbow narrow advance, the end point of the small sleeve fat narrow advance and the small sleeve outer opening point u1 are connected by arcs to form a small sleeve body structure.

The method breaks through the traditional drawing method in the aspect of drawing, is scientific, efficient, balanced and attractive in structure, has high accuracy and easy matching, is used for matching armholes and armholes strictly, and has the effect of drawing and shrinking the stitching amount by adopting a traction band when the armholes are stitched, thereby playing the role of shaping the armhole bulges. The size of the stitch shrinkage can be adjusted according to the style of the clothes, and the size of the stitch shrinkage is adjusted at the two ends of the large and small flexible rule. The method for drawing the garment pieces and the sleeve pieces is simple and easy to operate. The method adopts the calculation of the chest circumference of the human body when drawing the circumference size, and adopts the calculation of the number (namely the height of the human body) when drawing the length, thereby greatly improving the drawing efficiency.

In order to more specifically explain a method for drawing men's clothing provided by the invention, the following embodiment 1 is used for detailed explanation.

Example 1

A method of drawing a man's clothing having a clothing size of 170/88A, see fig. 1, comprising:

(1) manufacturing a flexible rule: the flexible ruler comprises a large sleeve mountain flexible ruler and a small sleeve mountain flexible ruler (see figure 2), wherein the large sleeve mountain flexible ruler and the small sleeve mountain flexible ruler are made of plastic with elastic tension, one end of the large sleeve mountain flexible ruler is provided with a plug, the other end of the large sleeve mountain flexible ruler is provided with a first handle, one end of the small sleeve mountain flexible ruler is provided with a jack matched with the plug of the large sleeve mountain flexible ruler, the other end of the small sleeve mountain flexible ruler is provided with a second handle, and the first handle and the second. The plug of the large sleeve flexible ruler and the jack of the small sleeve flexible ruler are inserted together to form the armhole flexible ruler, the length of the armhole flexible ruler is calculated according to the chest circumference ratio of the human body, and the length of the armhole flexible ruler is 0.63 x the chest circumference of the human body and 0.06cm and 0.63 x 88+0.06cm and 55.5 cm. The soft ruler with the big sleeve cap and the plug thereof and the soft ruler with the small sleeve cap are provided with scales, and the plug of the soft ruler with the big sleeve cap can be used for increasing the radian of the armhole and the sleeve cap when the chest circumference is enlarged.

The diameters of the large sleeve flexible ruler and the small sleeve flexible ruler are both 0.5cm, the maximum scale of the large sleeve flexible ruler is 0.375 x the chest circumference of the human body is 0.375 x 88cm is 33cm, the maximum scale of the plug is 5cm, and the maximum scale of the small sleeve flexible ruler is 0.255 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.06cm is 0.255 x 88+0.06cm is 22.5 cm. The diameter of the plug of the soft ruler with big sleeve mountains is 0.25cm and is matched with the diameter of the jack at one end of the soft ruler with small sleeve mountains.

(2) Drawing armholes by using a flexible rule: inserting the plug of the large sleeve flexible ruler and the jack of the small sleeve flexible ruler together to form an armhole flexible ruler (see figure 3), pinching the armhole flexible ruler by hands to bend into a certain armhole shape, placing the armhole flexible ruler into an armhole rectangle abcd to be matched with the three sticking points, the front shoulder point and the rear shoulder point, and sticking the inner ring of the flexible ruler to draw the armhole.

Referring to fig. 4, point a is an anterior cuff high point, point b is a posterior cuff high point, point c is a posterior cuff lower point, point d is an anterior cuff lower point, the length of the ab side is 0.187, the human body chest circumference is 0.187, 88cm is 16.5cm, the length of the ad side is 0.228, the human body chest circumference is 0.228, 88cm is 20.1cm, and the points are used for drawing an cuff rectangle.

An anterior shoulder point a1, a posterior shoulder point b2, a posterior shoulder point b1, an anterior cuff attaching point d2, a posterior cuff attaching point c1 and an cuff bottom attaching point d1 are drawn on the cuff rectangle abcd. The front shoulder impulse aa1 is equal to the circumference of the chest of a human body/20-0.4 cm, equal to 88/20-0.4cm, equal to 4.0cm, the back shoulder impulse bb1 is equal to aa1/2, equal to 4.0/2cm, equal to 2.0cm, b1b2 is shoulder drop, b1b2 is perpendicular to ab, and b1b2 is equal to bb1/2-0.5cm, equal to 2.0/2-0.5cm, equal to 0.5cm, and used for drawing the front and back shoulder width and the upper end point of the armhole; the front armhole pasting point d2 is located at one fourth of the ad edge near the d point, the back armhole pasting point c1 is located at one half of the bc edge, the armhole bottom pasting point d1 is located at one third of the dc edge near the d point, and the front armhole pasting point d2, the back armhole pasting point c1 and the armhole bottom pasting point d1 are used as pasting points for placing an armhole soft ruler.

After the points are drawn, the armhole flexible ruler is placed in an armhole rectangular abcd (see figure 5), and is attached to the front shoulder point a1, the front armhole attaching point d2, the armhole bottom attaching point d1, the rear armhole attaching point c1 and the rear shoulder point b2 from one end to the other end, and an armhole arc line is drawn along the inner side edge of the armhole flexible ruler.

The length of armhole is equal to the total length of the flexible rule-the amount of stitching, the amount of stitching is equal to 4.5cm, and the length of armhole is equal to 55.5cm-4.5cm is equal to 51 cm.

Referring to fig. 6 and 7, when drawing the back cut piece, drawing a back chest circumference large point h, a back cervical vertebra point k, a back upper neck point j, a back neck point j1, a back waist node n, a back waist large point n1, a back garment length point m, a back garment pendulum point m1 and a back garment pendulum warp point m2 for drawing a back cut piece basic line.

Extending the dc edge outwards from the lower point c of the posterior arm hole to a large point h of the posterior chest circumference to form a back width ch, wherein the length of the back width ch is 0.212 x 88 cm-18.66 cm; forming a back length hk from a parallel line with the cb side from a point h with a large chest circumference to a point k with a back cervical vertebra, wherein the length of the back length hk is 0.268 cm, 88cm, 0.08cm, 23.66 cm; forming a back collar width kj1 from a parallel line which is used as an hc side at the back cervical vertebra point k to a back collar point j1, wherein the length of the back collar width kj1 is 0.082, the chest circumference of a human body +0.08cm is 0.082, 88+0.08cm is 7.3 cm; forming a back collar height jj1 from a back collar point j1 to a back upper collar point j by making a perpendicular line of a back collar width kj1, wherein the length of the back collar height jj1 is kj1/3 is 7.3/3cm is 2.4 cm; an extension line of a kh side is made outwards from a large point h of the chest circumference to a back waist node n to form a chest waist distance hn, and the length of the chest waist distance hn is equal to the number/4-hk is equal to 170/4-23.66cm and is equal to 18.84 cm; making an extension line of the chest waist distance hn from the back waist node n to the back clothes length point m outwards to form the length nm under the back waist, wherein the length of the length nm under the back waist is hk/2+ hn 23.66/2+18.84cm or 30.67 cm; forming a back waist large nn1 from a parallel line of a hc side of the back waist node n to a back waist large point n1, wherein the length of the back waist large nn1 is 18.66-1.0 cm-17.66 cm; a backskin length point m is taken as a parallel line of a backskin large nn1 to a backskin swinging point m1 to form a backskin swinging size mm1, and the length of the backskin swinging size mm1 is ch +1.0cm, 18.66+1.0cm, 19.66 cm; from a parallel line of mn sides of the back clothes pendulum point m1 to a back clothes pendulum lifting point m2, a back clothes pendulum lifting m1m2 is formed, and the back clothes pendulum lifting m1m2 is kj1/3-0.9cm, and is 7.3/3-0.9cm, and is 1.5 cm.

As shown in fig. 8, the drawing of the neckline arc, the back shoulder arc and the side seam of the back cut piece based on the back cut piece basic line of the invention is shown, and the back neck foot hanging point k1 and the back neck arc high point k2 are drawn based on the drawn back cut piece basic line and are used for drawing the neckline radian of the back cut piece. The rear cervical vertebra point k and the rear upper collar point j are connected by a straight line, a rear collar drop foot point k1 is drawn at 1/3 which is close to the rear upper collar point j on a kj line segment, a perpendicular line of the kj line segment is made from the rear collar drop foot point k1 to a rear collar arc height point k2, the k1k2 is kj1/3-1.3cm is 7.3/3-1.3cm is 1.1cm, and the rear cervical vertebra point k, the rear collar arc height point k2 and the rear upper collar point j are connected by an arc line to form a rear collar arc line.

The back upper neck point j and the back shoulder point b2 are connected by a straight line, the shoulder vertical arc amount is vertically made downwards from the midpoint of the jb2 line segment, the shoulder vertical arc amount is 0.5cm, and the back upper neck point j, the end point of the shoulder vertical arc amount and the back shoulder point b2 are connected by an arc line to form a back shoulder arc line.

And drawing armhole upwarping points o on the bc edge, wherein the length of the armhole upwarping line segment co is 0.056 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.1cm is 0.056 x 88+0.1cm is 5.0 cm. The parallel line of the cd edge is taken from the armhole warping high point o and is intersected with the armhole arc line to the armhole cutting point o1, and the armhole cutting point o1 is used for armhole segmentation. The straight line connects the armhole cut point o1 and the back waist big point n1 and the back waist big point n1 and the back garment swing point m2, the back upper side seam vertical arc amount is vertically made from the midpoint of o1n1 to the upper side thereof, the back upper side seam vertical arc amount is 0.003 x the human body chest circumference +0.04cm + 0.003 x 88+0.04cm is 0.3cm, the back lower side seam vertical arc amount is vertically made from the midpoint of n1m2 to the upper side thereof, the back lower side seam vertical arc amount is 0.005 x the human body chest circumference +0.06cm + 0.005 x 88+0.06cm is 0.5cm, the armhole cut point o1, the end point of the back upper side seam vertical arc amount, the back waist big point n1, the end point of the back lower side seam vertical arc amount and the back garment swing point m2 constitute the back garment piece.

The back clothes length point m and the back clothes swing upwarp point m2 are connected by a straight line, the back clothes downward bending vertical arc amount is vertically made from the middle point of the line segment m2m to the lower side of the line segment, the back clothes downward bending vertical arc amount is 0.001 x the chest circumference of a human body, 0.012cm is 0.001 x 88+0.012cm is 0.1cm, and the back clothes length point m, the end point of the back clothes downward bending vertical arc amount and the back clothes swing upwarp point m2 are connected by an arc line to form a back clothes downward swing arc line.

When drawing the front garment, drawing a front neckline width point f, a front neckline point e, a front neckline depth point e1, a front chest circumference large point g, a front waist distance point p, a front waist circumference large point p1, a front garment length point q, a front garment swing point q1 and a front garment swing warping point q2 (see fig. 9) for drawing a front garment basic line.

Extending the cd edge outwards from the lower point d of the anterior arm opening to a greater point g of the chest circumference to form a wide line dg of the anterior chest, wherein the length of the wide line dg of the anterior chest is 0.212 and the chest circumference of the human body is 0.212 and 88cm and is 18.66 cm; forming an anterior chest high line ge from a parallel line of the da side from the anterior chest circumference large point g to an anterior neckline e, wherein the length of the anterior chest high line ge is 0.268 to the chest circumference of the human body +0.08cm to 0.268 to 88+0.08cm to 23.66 cm; forming a front transverse opening collar ef from a parallel line of the front collar point e and the front collar width point f, wherein the length of the front transverse opening collar ef is dg/2, 18.66/2cm, 9.33 cm; an anterior neckline depth point e1 is drawn on the anterior chest high line ge to form a straight open neckline ee1, and the length of the straight open neckline ee1 is 0.082 x the human body chest circumference +0.08cm is 0.082 x 88+0.08cm is 7.3 cm.

Referring to fig. 10 and 11, a front neck opening depth point e1 and a front neck opening width point f are connected by a straight line, a front neck opening drop foot point f1 is drawn at 1/3 on a line segment fe1 close to the front neck opening width point f, a perpendicular line to fe1 is made from the front neck opening drop foot point f1 to a front neck opening drop arc amount point f2, the length of f1f2 is kj1/3-0.6 is 7.3/3-0.6cm is 1.8cm, and the front neck opening width point f, the front neck opening drop arc amount point f2 and the front neck opening depth point e1 are connected by an arc line to form a front neck opening arc line.

A front neckline width point f and a front shoulder point a1 are connected by a straight line to form a shoulder auxiliary line fa1, the amount of the protrusion vertical arc is vertically made from the middle point of the shoulder auxiliary line fa1 to the upper side of the shoulder auxiliary line fa, the amount of the protrusion vertical arc is 0.005, the human body chest circumference is +0.06, cm is 0.005, 88+0.06, cm is 0.5cm, and the front neckline width point f, the end point of the protrusion vertical arc and the front shoulder point a1 are connected by an arc line to form a front shoulder arc line.

The front side seam is formed by respectively drawing the front upper side seam vertical arc amount and the front lower side seam vertical arc amount from the middle points of the line segments o1p1 and p1q2, wherein the front upper side seam vertical arc amount is 0.005 x the chest circumference of a human body and 0.06cm is 0.005 x 88cm and 0.06cm is 0.5cm, and an armhole cutting point o1, the end point of the front upper side seam vertical arc amount, the front waist, the large surrounding point p1, the end point of the front lower side seam vertical arc amount and the front clothing swing upwarp point q2 are connected by arc lines.

The front garment length point q and the front garment swing upwarp point q2 are connected by a straight line, the front garment downward bending vertical arc amount is vertically made from the middle point of a line segment q2q to the lower side of the line segment, the front garment downward bending vertical arc amount is 0.002, the human body chest circumference +0.02, the 0.002, 88 and 0.02cm are 0.2cm, and the front garment length point q, the end point of the front garment downward bending vertical arc amount and the front garment swing upwarp point q2 are connected by an arc line to form a front garment downward swing arc line.

The downward bending vertical arc amount is vertically made from the middle point of the line qq1 to the lower side of the line qq1, and the downward bending vertical arc amount is 0.002 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.02cm, and 0.002 x 88+0.02cm is 0.2 cm.

Referring to fig. 12, in the sleeve-hill rectangle rstv, the r point is the left upper sleeve-hill point, the s point is the right upper sleeve-hill point, the v point is the sleeve root point, and the t point is the sleeve fat point. And drawing an upper sleeve root point v1, a small sleeve inner opening point v2, an sleeve top point s1, an arm strong point u and a small sleeve outer opening point u1 in the sleeve top rectangle rstv for drawing an sleeve top structure.

In the cuff rectangle rstv, the cuff width rs is 0.253 × human chest circumference +0.07cm is 0.253 × 88+0.07cm is 22.33cm, and the cuff height rv is 0.195 × human chest circumference +0.08cm is 0.195 × 88+0.08cm is 17.24 cm. The sleeve-top point s1 is drawn on the sleeve-top width rs to form the sleeve-top position ss1, and the sleeve-top position ss1 is 0.093-0.01 cm-0.093-88 +0.01 cm-8.19 cm. Drawing a point v1 on the sleeve root on the sleeve mountain height rv to form a sleeve root position vv1, wherein the sleeve root position vv1 is 0.006-0.02 cm-0.006-88 cm-0.02 cm. From the point v1 on the sleeve root, the vertical line of the sleeve mountain height rv to the point v2 at the small sleeve inner opening, the sleeve fold v1v2 is formed, the sleeve fold v1v2 is 0.037 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.04cm is 0.037 x 88+0.04cm is 3.3 cm. Drawing an arm strong point u on the st edge, wherein the length of a line segment su is 0.061 88cm to 5.37cm, a small sleeve deviation uu1 is formed from a perpendicular line of the arm strong point u to the point u1 of the small sleeve outer opening, and the small sleeve deviation uu1 is 0.028 88+0.09cm to 2.55 cm.

Referring to fig. 13 and 14, the big sleeve mountain flexible rule is bent and then placed in the sleeve mountain rectangle rstv, two ends of the big sleeve mountain flexible rule are attached to an upper sleeve root point v1 and an arm strong point u, one point of the big sleeve mountain flexible rule is attached to an sleeve mountain point s1, the big sleeve mountain flexible rule is bent and protruded upwards, the sleeve mountain head is of a steamed bun-shaped structure, and the big sleeve mountain structure is drawn along the outer side of the big sleeve mountain flexible rule. The small sleeve cap flexible ruler is bent and placed in the sleeve cap rectangle rstv, two ends of the small sleeve cap flexible ruler are attached to a small sleeve inner opening point v2 and a small sleeve outer opening point u1, the flexible ruler is bent downwards and recessed, the sleeve cap is in a crescent structure, and the small sleeve cap structure is drawn along the outer side of the small sleeve cap flexible ruler.

(5) Drawing sleeves: and drawing sleeves on the basis of the sleeve mountains.

Referring to fig. 15, when the large sleeve is drawn, the sleeve is drawn on the basis of the sleeve cap structure, and an increased sleeve length line vw is formed by extending the rv side from the sleeve root point v to the sleeve length point w, and is 0.244 +0.07cm + 0.244 + 170+0.07 cm-41.55 cm. From the sleeve length point w, the vertical line of the sleeve length increasing line segment vw is made to the cuff point w1 to form a cuff large line segment ww1, and the cuff large line segment ww1 is 0.2 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.05cm is 0.2 x 88+0.05cm is 17.65 cm. An oblique line segment w1w2 is formed from a cuff point w1 as a vertical line of a cuff large line segment ww1 to a cuff lower point w2, and the oblique line segment w1w2 under the cuff is 0.017 to the chest circumference of the human body and 0.06cm is 0.017 to 88 and 0.06cm is 1.56 cm. Drawing x points on the increased sleeve length line vw to form a sleeve elbow line vx, which is 0.11 +0.14cm + 0.11 + 170+0.14 cm-18.84 cm. From the point x, the perpendicular line of the segment vw for increasing the length of the sleeve to the concave point x1 of the sleeve elbow, the length of xx1 is 0.013 the chest circumference of the human body +0.06cm is 0.013 x 88+0.06cm is 1.2 cm. The straight line connects the sleeve strong point u and the cuff bottom point w2, and intersects the extension line of xx1 and the vt side at one point respectively, the out-projecting amount of the sleeve fertilizer is made from the intersection point of the vt side along the vt side to the t point direction, the out-projecting amount of the sleeve fertilizer is 0.028 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.04cm x 88+0.04cm x 2.5cm, the out-projecting amount of the sleeve elbow is made from the intersection point of the extension line of xx1, and the out-projecting amount of the sleeve elbow is 0.034 x the chest circumference of the human body x 0.034 x 88cm x 3.0 cm. Fig. 16 is a schematic diagram of arc connection when drawing a large sleeve body according to the present invention, and an arc line is used to connect an upper point v1 of a sleeve root, a concave point x1 of a sleeve elbow, a point w of a sleeve length, a lower point w2 of a cuff, an end point of a projecting amount of the sleeve elbow, an end point of a projecting amount of a sleeve fat and a sleeve strong point u to form a large sleeve body structure, as shown in fig. 17, which is a schematic diagram of a large sleeve body structure drawn according to the present invention.

Referring to fig. 18, when the small sleeve is drawn, the drawing is performed on the basis of the large sleeve, and the point y is drawn on the cuff large line segment ww1, wherein the length of wy is 0.037, the length of v1v2 is 0.037, and the chest circumference of the human body is 0.037, 88cm and 3.3 cm. Extending xx1 from the concave point x1 of the sleeve elbow to the point z, wherein the length of x1z is 0.037-88 cm-3.3 cm of the chest circumference of the human body, and the length of v1v2 is 0.037. The outward protrusion amount of the sleeve fertilizer is inwards used as the narrow inlet amount of the small sleeve fertilizer along the edge of the small sleeve fertilizer, and the narrow inlet amount of the small sleeve fertilizer is 0.028 x the chest circumference of the human body and 0.04cm and 0.028 x 88 and 0.04cm and 2.5 cm; and (3) inwards making the amount of the elbow protrusion as the amount of the elbow narrow in the small sleeve along the edge of the small sleeve, wherein the amount of the elbow narrow in the small sleeve is 0.017 and the chest circumference of the human body is 0.017 88cm and 1.5 cm. The small sleeve inner opening points v2, z and y, the cuff lower point w2, the end point of the small sleeve elbow narrow advance, the end point of the small sleeve fat narrow advance and the small sleeve outer opening point u1 are connected by arcs to form a small sleeve body structure.

While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.

Claims

1. A method for drawing a man's clothing, the method comprising:

when the front cut piece is drawn, the method comprises the following steps:

(4) drawing sleeves: and drawing sleeves on the basis of the sleeve mountains.

2. The method of male garment drafting as claimed in claim 1, wherein said sleeves are large sleeve bodies, which drawing comprises:

drawing on the basis of an sleeve mountain structure, extending an rv edge from a sleeve root point v to a sleeve length point w, wherein a sleeve length increasing line segment vw is 0.244 +0.07 cm; from the sleeve length point w, making a vertical line of the sleeve length increasing line segment vw to the cuff point w1, wherein the cuff big line segment ww1 is 0.2 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.05 cm; from cuff point w1 as the vertical line of cuff large line segment ww1 to cuff lower point w2, cuff lower oblique line segment w1w2 is 0.017 x the chest circumference of human body +0.06 cm; drawing an x point on the sleeve length increasing line segment vw, wherein the sleeve elbow line segment vx is 0.11 +0.14 cm; from the point x, the vertical line of the segment vw for increasing the length of the sleeve to the concave point x1 of the sleeve elbow, wherein the length of xx1 is 0.013 plus 0.06cm of the chest circumference of the human body; the straight line connects the sleeve strong point u and the cuff bottom point w2, and intersects the extension line of xx1 and the vt side at one point respectively, the outward protrusion amount of the sleeve fertilizer is 0.028 x the chest circumference of the human body +0.04cm from the intersection point of the vt side to the vt side, the outward protrusion amount of the sleeve fertilizer is 0.034 x the chest circumference of the human body from the intersection point of the extension line of xx 1; the upper point v1 of the sleeve root, the concave point x1 of the sleeve elbow, the long point w of the sleeve, the lower point w2 of the cuff, the end point of the convex amount of the sleeve elbow, the end point of the convex amount of the sleeve fat and the sleeve strong point u are connected by an arc line to form a large sleeve body structure.

3. The method of male garment drafting as claimed in claim 2, wherein said sleeves are small sleeve bodies, which drawing comprises:

drawing on the basis of the large sleeve body, drawing a point y on a cuff large line segment ww1, wherein the length of wy is 0.037 of the chest circumference of the human body, and the length of wy is v1v 2; extending xx1 to z from the elbow concave point x1, wherein the length of x1z is v1v2 is 0.037 of the chest circumference of the human body; making the outward convex amount of the sleeve fertilizer inwards along the edge of the outward convex amount of the sleeve fertilizer as a narrow-in amount of the small-sleeve fertilizer, wherein the narrow-in amount of the small-sleeve fertilizer is 0.028 plus 0.04cm of the chest circumference of the human body; the protruding amount of the sleeve elbow is inwards used as the narrow entering amount of the small sleeve elbow along the edge of the protruding amount of the sleeve elbow, and the narrow entering amount of the small sleeve elbow is 0.017 times of the chest circumference of the human body; the small sleeve inner opening points v2, z and y, the cuff lower point w2, the end point of the small sleeve elbow narrow advance, the end point of the small sleeve fat narrow advance and the small sleeve outer opening point u1 are connected by arcs to form a small sleeve body structure.

4. The method for drawing men's clothing according to claim 1, wherein said flexible rule is composed of a big sleeve mountain flexible rule and a small sleeve mountain flexible rule; wherein, the soft ruler of the big sleeve mountain and the soft ruler of the small sleeve mountain are both provided with scales; one end of the cuff flexible rule is provided with a plug, and the other end of the cuff flexible rule is provided with a first handle; one end of the small sleeve mountain flexible rule is provided with a jack matched with the plug of the large sleeve mountain flexible rule, and the other end of the small sleeve mountain flexible rule is provided with a second handle; the plug of the big sleeve mountain flexible rule and the jack of the small sleeve mountain flexible rule are inserted together to form the flexible rule.

5. The method for making men's clothing according to claim 4, wherein said major sleeve mountain flexible rule and minor sleeve mountain flexible rule have the same diameter; the maximum scale of the large sleeve hill flexible ruler is 0.375X the chest circumference of the human body, and the maximum scale of the small sleeve hill flexible ruler is 0.255X the chest circumference of the human body plus 0.06 cm.

6. The method of male garment drafting according to claim 1 wherein the length of the tape is 0.63 x body bust +0.06 cm.

7. The method of male apparel according to claim 1 wherein the amount of shrinkage is 4.5 cm.

8. The method of male apparel according to claim 1 wherein the amount of shoulder sag is 0.5 cm.

9. The method of male apparel according to claim 1 wherein the line segment q1q2 is 2.0cm in length.

10. The method for drawing men's clothing according to claim 1, wherein a downward sag amount is vertically drawn from a midpoint of the line qq1 toward a lower side thereof, the downward sag amount being 0.002 x the bust of the human body +0.02cm, and the front-clothing length point q, the end point of the downward sag amount, and the front-clothing swing point q1 are connected by an arc.