CN117256985B - Preparation method of bent sleeve and bent sleeve garment - Google Patents
Preparation method of bent sleeve and bent sleeve garment Download PDFInfo
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- CN117256985B CN117256985B CN202311230392.6A CN202311230392A CN117256985B CN 117256985 B CN117256985 B CN 117256985B CN 202311230392 A CN202311230392 A CN 202311230392A CN 117256985 B CN117256985 B CN 117256985B
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title abstract description 11
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 239000003337 fertilizer Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 208000002513 Flank pain Diseases 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004891 communication Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003993 interaction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002035 prolonged effect Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing, and discloses a bent potential sleeve and a preparation method of the bent potential sleeve clothing. The bent potential sleeve comprises a first sleeve piece and a second sleeve piece, wherein the first sleeve piece is provided with a first sleeve bottom and a first sleeve back, the second sleeve piece is provided with a second sleeve bottom and a second sleeve back, the radian of the first sleeve bottom is the same as that of the second sleeve bottom, and the radian of the first sleeve back is the same as that of the second sleeve back, so that the bent potential sleeve accords with the natural bending radian of an arm when a human body leans forward. The invention ensures the natural sleeve shape through the manufacturing process and the model to meet the requirement of the forward leaning posture of the human arm, namely the natural sleeve shape with the forward leaning posture.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing, in particular to a bent potential sleeve and a preparation method of the bent potential sleeve clothing.
Background
At present, the manufacturing methods of sleeves in clothing are generally divided into two types, namely one sleeve and two sleeves, and the sleeves are correspondingly manufactured according to the types of modeling sleeves. However, the manufacturing process of the two sleeves is complicated, the curvature of the two sleeves is difficult to ensure to conform to the forward tilting posture of a human body, and other cloth or structures are usually required to be spliced, so that the garment is not attractive. Therefore, how to ensure the natural sleeve shape in the manufacturing process and the model to meet the requirement of the forward leaning posture of the arms of the human body, namely, how to ensure the natural sleeve shape with the forward leaning posture is a problem which needs to be solved by the people in the field at present.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a bent potential sleeve and a preparation method of the bent potential sleeve garment, so that the sleeve is provided with a natural sleeve type with a forward leaning posture, and the requirement of the forward leaning posture of the arm of a human body is met.
To achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
A crimp sleeve, comprising:
the first sleeve piece is provided with a first sleeve bottom and a first sleeve back;
The second sleeve piece is provided with a second sleeve bottom and a second sleeve back, the radian of the first sleeve bottom is the same as that of the second sleeve bottom, and the radian of the first sleeve back is the same as that of the second sleeve back, so that the radian of the first sleeve back and the radian of the second sleeve back are both in accordance with the natural bending radian of the arm when the human body leans forward.
Alternatively, the length of the first sleeve bottom is smaller than the length of the first sleeve back, and the length of the second sleeve bottom is smaller than the length of the second sleeve back.
Optionally, the first sleeve piece is further provided with a first cuff, the second sleeve piece is further provided with a second cuff, and the first cuff and the second cuff have the same length.
Optionally, the first sleeve piece is further provided with a first shoulder opening protruding outwards, the second sleeve piece is further provided with a second shoulder opening recessed inwards, the first shoulder opening and the second shoulder opening are both connected to the garment piece, the first shoulder opening is located on the outer side, and the second shoulder opening is located on the inner side close to the garment piece.
In another aspect, a method of making a crimp sleeve garment, comprising:
s1, making a waist line, a front collar opening, a rear collar opening, a front armhole and a rear armhole so as to finish the manufacture of the garment piece;
S2, manufacturing a sleeve arch line of the bent sleeve after the front sleeve hole and the rear sleeve hole are cut on the re-cut garment piece;
S3, making a seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line, a sleeve bottom quasi line and a sleeve back datum line according to the sleeve mountain arc line, and determining cutting sizes of the first sleeve piece and the second sleeve piece in the curved sleeve according to the sleeve bottom quasi line and the sleeve back datum line;
s4, sewing the first sleeve piece, the second sleeve piece and the two garment pieces into the bent sleeve garment.
Alternatively, the step S1 includes:
S1.1, making a waist line along the horizontal direction, and making a front central line and a rear central line perpendicular to the waist line at two ends of the waist line respectively;
S1.2, making a chest girth line parallel to the girth line, setting a first datum point at the midpoint of the chest girth line, and making a front piece side stitch and a rear piece side stitch by taking the first datum point as a starting point;
s1.3, setting a second datum point at a first preset distance from the first datum point along the vertical direction;
s1.4, arranging a front collar on the top end of a front central line and arranging a rear collar on the top end of a rear central line;
s1.5, making a front armhole according to the front collar and the second datum point, and making a rear armhole according to the rear collar and the first datum point so as to finish the manufacture of the garment piece.
Alternatively, the step S2 includes:
S2.1, the front armhole is etched again to form a front armhole auxiliary line, and the rear armhole is etched again to form a rear armhole auxiliary line, so that one end of the front armhole auxiliary line and one end of the rear armhole auxiliary line are overlapped with a third datum point;
s2.2, setting sleeve mountain fixed points at intervals of a second preset distance from a third reference point along the vertical direction, and extending a sleeve center line after connecting the sleeve mountain fixed points and the third reference point, and making a sleeve fertilizer line perpendicular to the sleeve center line at the third reference point;
S2.3, drawing a circle by taking the sleeve mountain fixed point as the center of a circle, wherein the distance between the third reference point and the corner point of the rear armhole auxiliary line is a radius, and intersecting the third reference point with the sleeve fertilizer line at a third intersection point;
S2.4, drawing a circle by taking the sleeve mountain fixed point as the center of a circle, wherein the distance between the third reference point and the corner point of the front armhole auxiliary line is a radius, and intersecting the third reference point and the sleeve fertilizer line at a fourth intersection point;
s2.5, manufacturing a sleeve arch line of the bent potential sleeve according to the third intersection point and the fourth intersection point.
Optionally, the step S3 includes:
s3.1, arranging a seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line parallel to the sleeve midline at intervals on one side of the sleeve midline, and intersecting the seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line with the sleeve fat line at a fifth intersection point;
s3.2, arranging sleeve base quasi-lines parallel to the slit sleeve bottom lines at intervals on one side of the slit sleeve bottom lines far away from the sleeve center line, wherein the sleeve base quasi-lines and the sleeve mountain arc lines are intersected at a sixth intersection point;
s3.4, arranging sleeve back datum lines parallel to the seam-borrowed sleeve bottom line at intervals on one side of the seam-borrowed sleeve bottom line, wherein the sleeve back datum lines are intersected with the sleeve mountain arc line at a seventh intersection point, and the sleeve center line is positioned between the seam-borrowed sleeve bottom line and the sleeve back datum lines;
s3.5, symmetrical sleeve mountain arc lines sequentially pass through a fifth intersection point, a sixth intersection point and a seventh intersection point to form a second shoulder mouth radian of the second sleeve sheet;
s3.6, a first sleeve bottom arc line and a second sleeve bottom arc line are respectively arranged at two sides of a sleeve base standard line at intervals, a first sleeve back arc line and a second sleeve back arc line are respectively arranged at two sides of a sleeve back standard line at intervals, radians of the first sleeve bottom arc line and the second sleeve bottom arc line are identical, radians of the first sleeve back arc line and the second sleeve back arc line are identical, and therefore cutting sizes of the first sleeve sheet and the second sleeve sheet in the bent potential sleeve are determined.
Alternatively, the intervals between the first sleeve bottom arc line and the sleeve bottom guideline, and between the second sleeve bottom arc line and the sleeve bottom guideline are the same, and the intervals between the first sleeve back arc line and the sleeve back datum line, and between the second sleeve back arc line and the sleeve back datum line are the same.
Optionally, the first sleeve bottom arc line and the second sleeve bottom arc line are both concave inwards, the first sleeve back arc line and the second sleeve back arc line are both convex outwards, and the radians of the first sleeve bottom arc line and the second sleeve back arc line are both consistent with the natural bending radian of the arm when the human body leans forwards.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
According to the invention, the integral structure of the bent potential sleeve can be arranged through sewing connection of the first sleeve piece and the second sleeve piece, the first sleeve piece is provided with the first sleeve bottom and the first sleeve back, the second sleeve piece is provided with the second sleeve bottom and the second sleeve back, the radians of the first sleeve bottom and the second sleeve bottom are the same, the radians of the first sleeve back and the second sleeve back are the same, and the radians of the four radians are in accordance with the natural bending radian of the arm when a human body leans forward, so that the bent potential sleeve has the natural sleeve shape of the forward leaning posture only through the design of the sleeve type of the first sleeve piece and the second sleeve piece, the use feeling of a user can be effectively improved, and the production efficiency and the yield are improved. On the other hand, for the bent sleeve clothing, the making of structures such as waist line, front collar opening, back collar opening and the like is sequentially carried out, so that the making of the clothing pieces can be quickly and effectively completed, and the main body structure of the bent sleeve clothing can be completed by sewing the two clothing pieces. Further, according to the re-engraving of the front armhole and the rear armhole on the garment piece, the manufacture of the sleeve arc line can be realized, the sleeve bottom line, the sleeve bottom base line and the sleeve back datum line are correspondingly formulated according to the position of the sleeve arc line, and the cutting size of the first sleeve piece and the second sleeve piece can be rapidly confirmed so as to ensure the accurate connection of the first sleeve piece and the second sleeve piece with the garment piece.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic back side view of a curved sleeve garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic front view of a curved sleeve garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic side view of a curved sleeve garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a first sleeve panel in a curved sleeve according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of a second sleeve panel in a curved sleeve according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is an expanded schematic view of a panel according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a first schematic illustration of a crimp sleeve preparation process according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 8 is a second schematic illustration of a crimp sleeve preparation process according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 9 is a third schematic illustration of a crimp sleeve preparation process according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 10 is a schematic illustration of the preparation of a first sleeve panel in a curved sleeve according to an embodiment of the present invention;
Fig. 11 is a schematic view of the preparation of a second sleeve panel in a curved sleeve according to an embodiment of the present invention.
In the figure:
10-a first sleeve piece; 20-a second sleeve panel; 300-clothing pieces;
101-a first sleeve bottom; 102-a first sleeve back; 103-first cuffs; 104-a first shoulder opening;
201-a second sleeve bottom; 202-a second sleeve back; 203-a second cuff; 204-a second shoulder opening;
301-waist line; 302-front panel side stitch; 303-backsheet side stitching; 304-front centerline; 305-a posterior centerline; 306-chest girth line; 307-first fiducial point; 308-a second fiducial point;
311-first intersection point; 312-front straight open collar; 313-front transverse open collar; 314-front opening collar wire; 315-anterior shoulder line; 316-first extension line; 317-front armholes;
321-a second intersection point; 322-open collar point; 323-rear transverse open collar; 324-back opening collar wire; 325-posterior shoulder width line; 326-a second extension line; 327-rear armholes;
315' -anterior shoulder width auxiliary line; 317' -front armhole auxiliary line; 325' -a posterior shoulder width auxiliary line; 327' -rear armhole auxiliary line;
401-sleeve fixation; 402-a third fiducial point; 403-third intersection; 404-fourth intersection;
411-sleeve height line; 412-a sleeve fertilizer line; 413-sleeve midline; 414-cuff line; 415-sleeve elbow line;
421-rear sleeve slash; 422-front sleeve slash; 430-sleeve arch line;
501-a fifth intersection point; 502-a sixth intersection point; 503-seventh intersection point;
510-sewing a sleeve bottom line; 520-sleeve base alignment; 521-a first sleeve bottom arc; 522-a second sleeve bottom arc; 530-a sleeve back datum line; 531-a first sleeve back arc; 532-a second sleeve back arc;
521' -a first sleeve bottom auxiliary arc; 531' -a first sleeve back auxiliary arc;
522' -a second sleeve bottom auxiliary arc; 532' -second sleeve back auxiliary arc.
Detailed Description
Embodiments of the present invention are described in detail below, examples of which are illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein like or similar reference numerals refer to like or similar parts throughout, or parts having like or similar functions. The embodiments described below by referring to the drawings are illustrative and intended to explain the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the invention.
In the description of the present invention, unless explicitly stated and limited otherwise, the terms "connected," "connected," and "fixed" are to be interpreted broadly, as for example, they may be fixedly connected, or may be detachably connected, or may be electrically connected, or may be directly connected, or may be indirectly connected through an intermediary, or may be in communication with one another in two elements or in an interaction relationship between two elements. The specific meaning of the above terms in the present invention can be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art according to the specific circumstances.
In the description of the present invention, unless explicitly stated and limited otherwise, a first feature "above" or "below" a second feature may include the first feature and the second feature being in direct contact, or may include the first feature and the second feature not being in direct contact but being in contact by another feature therebetween. Moreover, a first feature being "above," "over" and "on" a second feature includes the first feature being directly above and obliquely above the second feature, or simply indicating that the first feature is higher in level than the second feature. The first feature being "under", "below" and "beneath" the second feature includes the first feature being directly under and obliquely below the second feature, or simply means that the first feature is less level than the second feature.
At present, the manufacturing methods of sleeves in clothing are generally divided into two types, namely one sleeve and two sleeves, and the sleeves are correspondingly manufactured according to the types of modeling sleeves. However, the manufacturing process of the two sleeves is complicated, the curvature of the two sleeves is difficult to ensure to conform to the forward tilting posture of a human body, and other cloth or structures are usually required to be spliced, so that the garment is not attractive. Therefore, how to ensure the natural sleeve shape in the manufacturing process and the model to meet the requirement of the forward leaning posture of the arms of the human body, namely, how to ensure the natural sleeve shape with the forward leaning posture is a problem which needs to be solved by the people in the field at present.
The technical solution of the present embodiment is further described below by way of specific embodiments with reference to the accompanying drawings.
As shown in fig. 1 to 11, this embodiment provides a crimp sleeve and a method for manufacturing the crimp sleeve garment. Specifically, the curved sleeve comprises a first sleeve piece 10 and a second sleeve piece 20, the first sleeve piece 10 is provided with a first sleeve bottom 101 and a first sleeve back 102, the second sleeve piece 20 is provided with a second sleeve bottom 201 and a second sleeve back 202, the radian of the first sleeve bottom 101 is the same as that of the second sleeve bottom 201, the radian of the first sleeve back 102 is the same as that of the second sleeve back 202, and the radian of the first sleeve back and the radian of the second sleeve back 202 are both consistent with the natural bending radian of the arm when the human body leans forward. In another aspect, a method of making a crimp sleeve garment includes:
S1, making a waist line 301, a front collar opening, a rear collar opening, a front armhole 317 and a rear armhole 327 to finish the manufacturing of the garment piece 300;
s2, after front armholes 317 and rear armholes 327 are formed on the re-carved garment piece 300, sleeve arch lines 430 of the bent sleeve are manufactured;
S3, making a seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line 510, a sleeve bottom standard line 520 and a sleeve back standard line 530 according to the sleeve top arc line 430, and determining cutting sizes of the first sleeve piece 10 and the second sleeve piece 20 in the curved sleeve according to the sleeve bottom standard line 520 and the sleeve back standard line 530;
s4, sewing the first sleeve piece 10, the second sleeve piece 20 and the two garment pieces 300 into the bent sleeve garment.
Specifically, in this embodiment, the setting of the overall structure of the bending sleeve can be completed through the sewing connection of the first sleeve piece 10 and the second sleeve piece 20, the first sleeve piece 10 is provided with the first sleeve bottom 101 and the first sleeve back 102, the second sleeve piece 20 is provided with the second sleeve bottom 201 and the second sleeve back 202, the radians of the first sleeve bottom 101 and the second sleeve bottom 201 are the same, the radians of the first sleeve back 102 and the second sleeve back 202 are the same, and the radians of the four radians all conform to the natural bending radians of the arm when the human body leans forward, so that the bending sleeve itself has the natural sleeve posture of the forward leaning through the design of the sleeve type of the first sleeve piece 10 and the second sleeve piece 20, the use feeling of a user can be effectively improved, and the production efficiency and the yield are improved. On the other hand, in the case of the crimp sleeve garment, the manufacturing of the cut-out panels 300 can be completed quickly and effectively by making the structures such as the waistline 301, the front open collar and the rear open collar in sequence, and the main structure of the crimp sleeve garment can be completed by sewing the two cut-out panels 300. Further, according to the re-engraving of the front armhole 317 and the rear armhole 327 on the panel 300, the manufacture of the sleeve arch line 430 thereof can be realized, and the slit sleeve bottom line 510, the sleeve bottom quasi-line 520 and the sleeve back reference line 530 are correspondingly formulated according to the positions of the sleeve arch line 430, so that the cutting sizes of the first sleeve panel 10 and the second sleeve panel 20 can be rapidly confirmed, and the accurate connection between the first sleeve panel 10 and the second sleeve panel 20 and the panel 300 can be ensured.
The specific structure of the crimp sleeve in this embodiment will be described below.
As shown in fig. 1 to 5, the bending sleeve in the present embodiment includes a first sleeve sheet 10 and a second sleeve sheet 20, and a first sleeve bottom 101, a first sleeve back 102, a first cuff 103 and a first shoulder opening 104 are provided on the first sleeve sheet 10, and a second sleeve bottom 201, a second sleeve back 202, a second sleeve opening 203 and a second shoulder opening 204 are provided on the second sleeve sheet 20.
Specifically, in this embodiment, the first sleeve bottom 101 and the first sleeve back 102 are both provided with an arc, and the length of the first sleeve bottom 101 is smaller than the length of the first sleeve back 102. Likewise, the second sleeve bottom 201 and the second sleeve back 202 are both provided with radians, the length of the second sleeve bottom 201 is smaller than that of the second sleeve back 202, the length of the first sleeve bottom 101 is identical to that of the second sleeve bottom 201, and the length and radian of the first sleeve back 102 and the second sleeve back 202 are identical to those of the second sleeve back 202, so that corresponding two of the four sleeves can be sewn into a bent potential sleeve correspondingly. Further, the radians of the first sleeve bottom 101, the second sleeve bottom 201, the first sleeve back 102 and the second sleeve back 202 all conform to the natural bending radian of the arm when the human body leans forward, so that the use feeling of a user is ensured, the structure of the bent sleeve is simplified, the self can be suitable for the action of the arm when the human body leans forward, and the comfort is improved. Optionally, the first cuff 103 and the second cuff 203 are the same length, and are respectively located between the first sleeve bottom 101 and the first sleeve back 102, and between the second sleeve bottom 201 and the second sleeve back 202, for user hand movement. Specifically, the first shoulder opening 104 is configured to be in a convex structure at an end of the first sleeve bottom 101 and the first sleeve back 102 away from the first sleeve opening 103, and the second shoulder opening 204 is configured to be in a concave structure at an end of the second sleeve bottom 201 and the second sleeve back 202 away from the second sleeve opening 203. In this embodiment, the first shoulder opening 104 and the second shoulder opening 204 are both connected to the panel 300, so as to ensure stable sewing of the crimp sleeve in the garment. Optionally, the first shoulder opening 104 is located on the outer side for protecting the side of the user's arm away from the body and the shoulder, and the second shoulder opening 204 is located on the inner side of the garment piece 300 for protecting the inner side of the user's arm.
The following describes the specific details of the method for producing the bent sleeve garment of this example.
Referring to fig. 6 to 11, the method for manufacturing the bent sleeve garment in this embodiment includes:
S1, making a waist line 301, a front collar opening, a rear collar opening, a front armhole 317 and a rear armhole 327 to finish the manufacturing of the garment piece 300;
s2, after front armholes 317 and rear armholes 327 are formed on the re-carved garment piece 300, sleeve arch lines 430 of the bent sleeve are manufactured;
S3, making a seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line 510, a sleeve bottom standard line 520 and a sleeve back standard line 530 according to the sleeve top arc line 430, and determining cutting sizes of the first sleeve piece 10 and the second sleeve piece 20 in the curved sleeve according to the sleeve bottom standard line 520 and the sleeve back standard line 530;
s4, sewing the first sleeve piece 10, the second sleeve piece 20 and the two garment pieces 300 into the bent sleeve garment.
As shown in fig. 6, specifically, step S1 includes:
s1.1, making a waist line 301 along the horizontal direction, and making a front central line 304 and a rear central line 305 at two ends of the waist line 301 respectively perpendicular to the waist line 301;
S1.2, making a chest girth line 306 parallel to the girth line 301, setting a first reference point 307 at the midpoint of the chest girth line 306, and making a front side stitch 302 and a rear side stitch 303 by taking the first reference point 307 as a starting point;
s1.3, setting a second datum point 308 at a first preset distance from the first datum point 307 along the vertical direction;
S1.4, arranging a front collar at the top end of a front central line 304 and arranging a rear collar at the top end of a rear central line 305;
s1.5, making a front armhole 317 according to the front collar and the second datum point 308, and making a rear armhole 327 according to the rear collar and the first datum point 307, thereby completing the manufacture of the garment piece 300.
Illustratively, the length of the waistline 301 in this embodiment is set to the length of the user's bust length/2+4cm, for example, the user's bust is 88cm, and the length of the waistline 301 is 88 cm/2+4cm=48 cm. Further, the length of the front center line 304 is equal to the length of the front waist section of the human body, and is set to 41cm in the present embodiment, and likewise, the length of the rear center line 305 is equal to the length of the rear waist section of the human body, and is set to 40cm in the present embodiment. Optionally, the chest circumference line 306 is spaced from the waist circumference line 301 by a distance of 15.5cm in the present embodiment, so that the position of the first reference point 307 can also be determined, and the second reference point 308 is disposed at a first predetermined distance in the vertical direction for subsequent armhole size drawing. Optionally, two front side seams 302 and back side seams 303 with an included angle are made with the first reference point 307 as a starting point to serve as side seams of the front and back panels, the included angle is used for setting the waist absorption amount, and specific values can be set according to needs.
Further, a first set line of length chest circumference/4 is drawn at the front centerline 304 end point in the horizontal direction. Optionally, an intersection point of the first setting line and the front center line 304 is set as a first intersection point 311, a front straight open collar point 312 is set on the front center line 304 at a distance of 7cm from the first intersection point 311, a front transverse open collar point 313 is set on the first setting line at a distance of 6.8cm from the first intersection point 311, and thus the front straight open collar point 312 and the front transverse open collar point 313 are connected by an arc to form a front open collar line 314, so as to realize the setting of the front open collar in the panel 300 of the curved sleeve garment.
Accordingly, a second set line of length chest circumference/4 is drawn at the rear centerline 305 end point in the horizontal direction. Optionally, an intersection point of the second setting line and the rear center line 305 is set as a second intersection point 321, a rear straight open collar point 322 is set at a distance of 2.5cm from the second intersection point 321 on the rear center line 305, a rear transverse open collar point 323 is set at a distance of 7.5cm from the second intersection point 321 on the second setting line, and thus the rear straight open collar point 322 and the rear transverse open collar point 323 are connected by an arc to form a rear open collar line 324, so as to realize the setting of a rear open collar in the panel 300 of the curved sleeve garment. Further, the two front collars of the two panels 300 and the two rear collars can be connected to complete the setting of the neckline in the bending sleeve garment.
As shown in fig. 6, further, a front shoulder width line 315 with an included angle of 22 ° and a length of 12.4cm is drawn from a front transverse opening point 313 as a starting point, a first extension line 316 with a length of 2cm is drawn from an end point of the front shoulder width line 315 toward the front center line 304 in a horizontal direction, a vertical line is drawn from the end point of the first extension line 316 as a starting point, and a diagonal line where the second reference point 308 is located is intersected with a point, and three points, namely, a midpoint of a connecting line of the point and the end point of the first extension line 316, the second reference point 308 and the end point of the front shoulder width line 315, are connected in an arc manner to form a front armhole 317, so that the connection of a subsequent bent sleeve is facilitated.
Similarly, a back shoulder width line 325 having an angle of 19 ° and a length of 12.7cm is drawn from the front and rear transverse opening collar point 323, a second extension line 326 having a length of 1.5cm is drawn horizontally from the end point of the back shoulder width line 325 toward the back center line 305, a perpendicular line is drawn from the end point of the second extension line 326 to the chest circumference line 306, and the center point of the line connecting the point with the end point of the second extension line 326, the first reference point 307 and the end point of the back shoulder width line 325 are connected in an arc to form a back armhole 327, thereby facilitating the connection of the subsequent bending sleeve, and the whole set of the garment piece 300 is completed.
Further, step S2 includes:
S2.1, the front armhole 317 is a front armhole auxiliary line 317', and the rear armhole 327 is a rear armhole auxiliary line 327', so that one ends of the front armhole auxiliary line 317 'and the rear armhole auxiliary line 327' are overlapped with the third datum point 402;
s2.2, setting a sleeve mountain fixed point 401 along the vertical direction at a second preset distance from a third reference point 402, and extending a sleeve center line 413 after connecting the sleeve mountain fixed point 401 and the third reference point 402, and making a sleeve fertilizer line 412 perpendicular to the sleeve center line 413 at the third reference point 402;
S2.3, drawing a circle by taking the sleeve mountain fixed point 401 as the center of a circle, wherein the distance between the third reference point 402 and the corner point of the rear armhole auxiliary line 327' is a radius, and intersecting the sleeve fertilizer line 412 at a third intersection point 403;
s2.4, a circle is drawn by taking the sleeve mountain fixed point 401 as a circle center, the distance between the third reference point 402 and the corner point of the front armhole auxiliary line 317' is a radius, and the third reference point and the corner point intersect with the sleeve fertilizer line 412 at a fourth intersection point 404;
S2.5, manufacturing a sleeve arch 430 of the bent sleeve according to any one of claims 1-4 according to the third intersection point 403 and the fourth intersection point 404.
As shown in fig. 7, specifically, the front armhole 317, the rear armhole 327, the front shoulder width line 315 and the rear shoulder width line 325 are copied, respectively, and the front armhole auxiliary line 317', the rear armhole auxiliary line 327', the front shoulder width auxiliary line 315 'and the rear shoulder width auxiliary line 325' are formed to set the bending potential sleeve-related dimension. Alternatively, the front and rear armhole auxiliary lines 317 'and 327' intersect the third reference point 402, and the armhole fixing points 401 are provided to be spaced apart from the third reference point 402 upward in the vertical direction. Illustratively, the length of the sleeve height line 411 after the sleeve fixed point 401 is connected to the third reference point 402 is a value of (the length of the front armhole auxiliary line 317 '+the length of the rear armhole auxiliary line 327')/3. Further, the extended sleeve height line 411 draws a sleeve centerline 413, and the length of the sleeve centerline 413 is set to 59cm in this embodiment. Optionally, the third reference point 402 extends to the left and right along the horizontal direction to form a sleeve line 412, and the third reference point 402 is located at the midpoint of the sleeve line 412.
As shown in fig. 8 and 7, a circle is drawn with respect to the distance between the third reference point 402, the intersection point of the front armhole auxiliary line 317 'and the front shoulder width auxiliary line 315' and the distance between the intersection points of the third reference point 402, the armhole auxiliary line 327 'and the rear shoulder width auxiliary line 325', and the third intersection point 401 and the third intersection point 403 are connected to the armhole fixed point 401, the third intersection point 403, and the rear armhole oblique line 421 and the front armhole oblique line 422 are defined by the armhole fixed point 401 and the fourth intersection point 404, respectively, with respect to the armhole fixed point 401 as the center of the circle. Further, a sleeve arch 430 is drawn through sleeve anchor point 401, rear sleeve arch slope 421 and front sleeve arch slope 422, in preparation for the shoulder opening size of the subsequent crimp sleeve. Alternatively, cuff lines 415 are formed by making parallel lines spaced downward by 17cm with respect to the cuff lines 412, and cuff lines 414 are formed by making parallel lines of the cuff lines 412 at the bottom end of the cuff center line 413. Alternatively, the third intersection 403 and the fourth intersection 404 are respectively taken as parallel lines of the sleeve center line 413, and are taken as sleeve bottom sutures.
Optionally, step S3 includes:
s3.1, a seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line 510 parallel to the sleeve center line 413 is arranged at one side of the sleeve center line 413 at intervals, and the seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line 510 and the sleeve fertilizer line 412 are intersected at a fifth intersection point 501;
s3.2, arranging sleeve base quasi-lines 520 parallel to the slit sleeve bottom line 510 at intervals on one side of the slit sleeve bottom line 510 far from the sleeve center line 413, and intersecting the sleeve base quasi-lines 520 with the sleeve mountain arc line 430 at a sixth intersection point 502;
s3.4, arranging a sleeve back datum line 530 parallel to the seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line 510 at intervals on one side of the seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line 510 where the sleeve middle line 413 is arranged, wherein the sleeve back datum line 530 and the sleeve mountain arc line 430 intersect at a seventh intersection point 503, and the sleeve middle line 413 is positioned between the seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line 510 and the sleeve back datum line 530;
s3.5, symmetrical sleeve mountain arc 430 sequentially passes through a fifth intersection point 501, a sixth intersection point 502 and a seventh intersection point 503 to form a second shoulder opening 204 radian of the second sleeve piece 20;
S3.6, a first sleeve bottom arc line 521 and a second sleeve bottom arc line 522 are respectively arranged at intervals on two sides of the sleeve bottom standard line 520, a first sleeve back arc line 531 and a second sleeve back arc line 532 are respectively arranged at intervals on two sides of the sleeve back standard line 530, radians of the first sleeve bottom arc line 521 and the second sleeve bottom arc line 522 are the same, radians of the first sleeve back arc line 531 and the second sleeve back arc line 532 are the same, and therefore cutting sizes of the first sleeve piece 10 and the second sleeve piece 20 in the curved sleeve are determined.
As shown in fig. 9, specifically, a slit sleeve bottom line 510 is made by making a parallel line of the sleeve center line 413 on the right side of the sleeve center line 413, and an intersecting point of the slit sleeve bottom line 510 and the sleeve fat line 412 is set as a fifth intersecting point 501. Illustratively, the spacing between the sleeve centerline 413 and the slit sleeve bottom line 510 is set to 4cm. Further, the center point of the line connecting the fifth intersection point 501 and the fourth intersection point 404 is used as a starting point, the parallel line of the seam sleeve bottom line 510 is used to prepare the sleeve bottom base line 520, and the sleeve bottom base line 520 is prolonged until intersecting the sleeve top arc line 430 at the sixth intersection point 502. Similarly, a back reference line 530 is obtained by taking the midpoint of the line connecting the fifth intersection 501 and the third intersection 403 as a starting point and parallel to the seam bottom line 510, and the back reference line 530 is extended until intersecting the sleeve line 430 at the seventh intersection 503. Thus, the sleeve arc 430 is symmetrical and passes through the fifth intersection 501, the sixth intersection 502, and the seventh intersection 503, thereby obtaining a concave curve.
In this embodiment, the intervals between the first sleeve bottom arc 521 and the sleeve base alignment line 520, and the intervals between the second sleeve bottom arc 522 and the sleeve base alignment line 520 are the same, and the intervals between the first sleeve back arc 531 and the sleeve back reference line 530, and the intervals between the second sleeve back arc 532 and the sleeve back reference line 530 are the same, and the first sleeve bottom arc 521 and the second sleeve bottom arc 522 are both concave inward, the first sleeve back arc 531 and the second sleeve back arc 532 are both convex outward, and the radians of the four are both in accordance with the natural bending radian of the arm when the human body leans forward, so that the bending of the subsequent bent potential sleeve is in accordance with the bending arm use of the user.
Further, in order to avoid exposing the front surface of the sleeve bottom seam, the bottom seam is drawn in a mutually borrowing manner. Specifically, a first sleeve bottom arc 521 and a second sleeve bottom arc 522 are drawn in parallel at intervals of 3cm on both sides of the sleeve bottom quasi-line 520, and the distance between the two arcs and the sleeve bottom quasi-line 520 from top to bottom is constant and is 3cm. Similarly, the upper sections of the first sleeve back arc line 531 and the second sleeve back arc line 532 are drawn in parallel at intervals of 3cm respectively on the upper sections of the sleeve elbow lines 415 on both sides of the sleeve back reference line 530, and the lower sections of the first sleeve back arc line 531 and the lower sections of the second sleeve back arc line 532 are drawn in parallel at intervals of 1.5cm respectively, thereby securing the cuff size.
As shown in fig. 10 and 11, the first sleeve bottom arc 521, the second sleeve bottom arc 522, the first sleeve back arc 531, and the second sleeve back arc 532 are copied, respectively, to prepare a first sleeve bottom auxiliary arc 521', a second sleeve bottom auxiliary arc 522', a first sleeve back auxiliary arc 531', and a second sleeve back auxiliary arc 532', and to copy the sleeve top arc 430 and the symmetrical sleeve top arc 430, and as shown in fig. 1 to 5, to obtain the first sleeve bottom 101, the first sleeve back 102, the first sleeve mouth 103, and the first shoulder mouth 104 of the first sleeve piece 10, and the second sleeve bottom 201, the second sleeve back 202, the second sleeve mouth 203, and the second shoulder mouth 204 of the second sleeve piece 20, respectively, so as to implement the sewing of the curved sleeve. Further, the two crimp sleeves and the two panels 300 are sequentially sewn, and thus the manufacture of the crimp sleeve garment can be completed.
It is to be understood that the above examples of the present invention are provided for clarity of illustration only and are not limiting of the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations or modifications of the above teachings will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art. It is not necessary here nor is it exhaustive of all embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. which come within the spirit and principles of the invention are desired to be protected by the following claims.
Claims (7)
1. A method of making a crimp sleeve garment, the crimp sleeve of the crimp sleeve garment comprising:
A first sleeve piece (10) provided with a first sleeve bottom (101) and a first sleeve back (102);
The second sleeve piece (20) is provided with a second sleeve bottom (201) and a second sleeve back (202), the radian of the first sleeve bottom (101) is the same as that of the second sleeve bottom (201), and the radian of the first sleeve back (102) is the same as that of the second sleeve back (202), so that the radian of the first sleeve back and the radian of the second sleeve back are the same, and the radian of the first sleeve back and the radian of the second sleeve back are the same as that of the first sleeve back and the radian of the second sleeve back are the same, and the radian of the first sleeve back and the second sleeve back are the same as that of the second sleeve back and the second sleeve back;
The method is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
S1, making a waist line (301), a front collar opening, a rear collar opening, a front armhole (317) and a rear armhole (327) to finish the manufacturing of the garment piece (300);
S2, after a front armhole (317) and a rear armhole (327) are formed on the re-carved clothing piece (300), manufacturing an armhole arc line (430) of the bent sleeve;
S3, making a seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line (510), a sleeve bottom quasi line (520) and a sleeve back datum line (530) according to the sleeve mountain arc line (430), and determining cutting sizes of the first sleeve piece (10) and the second sleeve piece (20) in the bent potential sleeve according to the sleeve bottom quasi line (520) and the sleeve back datum line (530);
S4, sewing the first sleeve piece (10), the second sleeve piece (20) and the two garment pieces (300) into a bent sleeve garment;
The step S2 includes:
S2.1, a front armhole (317) is etched again to form a front armhole auxiliary line (317 '), and a rear armhole (327) is etched again to form a rear armhole auxiliary line (327'), so that one end of the front armhole auxiliary line (317 ') and one end of the rear armhole auxiliary line (327') are overlapped with a third datum point (402);
s2.2, setting a sleeve mountain fixed point (401) at a second preset distance from a third reference point (402) along the vertical direction, and after connecting the sleeve mountain fixed point (401) with the third reference point (402), extending a sleeve center line (413), and making a sleeve fertilizer line (412) perpendicular to the sleeve center line (413) at the third reference point (402);
s2.3, drawing a circle by taking a sleeve mountain fixed point (401) as a circle center and taking the distance between a third reference point (402) and a corner point of a rear armhole auxiliary line (327') as a radius, and intersecting with a sleeve fertilizer line (412) at a third intersection point (403);
S2.4, drawing a circle by taking a sleeve mountain fixed point (401) as a circle center, wherein the distance between a third reference point (402) and a corner point of a front armhole auxiliary line (317') is a radius, and intersecting with a sleeve fertilizer line (412) at a fourth intersection point (404);
S2.5, manufacturing a sleeve arch line (430) of the bent potential sleeve according to the third intersection point (403) and the fourth intersection point (404);
the step S3 includes:
S3.1, a seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line (510) parallel to the sleeve center line (413) is arranged at one side of the sleeve center line (413) at intervals, and the seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line (510) and the sleeve fertilizer line (412) are intersected at a fifth intersection point (501);
s3.2, arranging sleeve base directrix (520) parallel to the slit sleeve bottom line (510) at intervals on one side of the slit sleeve bottom line (510) far from the sleeve center line (413), and intersecting the sleeve base directrix (520) with the sleeve mountain arc line (430) at a sixth intersection point (502);
s3.4, arranging a sleeve back datum line (530) parallel to the seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line (510) at intervals on one side of the seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line (510) where the sleeve middle line (413) is arranged, wherein the sleeve back datum line (530) and the sleeve mountain arc line (430) are intersected at a seventh intersection point (503), and the sleeve middle line (413) is positioned between the seam-borrowing sleeve bottom line (510) and the sleeve back datum line (530);
s3.5, respectively taking the sleeve base datum line (520) and the sleeve back datum line (530) as symmetry axes, and symmetrically enabling the sleeve mountain arc line (430) to sequentially pass through a fifth intersection point (501), a sixth intersection point (502) and a seventh intersection point (503) so as to formulate a second shoulder opening (204) radian of the second sleeve piece (20);
S3.6, a first sleeve bottom arc line (521) and a second sleeve bottom arc line (522) are respectively arranged at two sides of a sleeve bottom standard line (520) at intervals, a first sleeve back arc line (531) and a second sleeve back arc line (532) are respectively arranged at two sides of a sleeve back standard line (530) at intervals, the radians of the first sleeve bottom arc line (521) and the radians of the second sleeve bottom arc line (522) are the same, and the radians of the first sleeve back arc line (531) and the radians of the second sleeve back arc line (532) are the same, so that the cutting sizes of the first sleeve piece (10) and the second sleeve piece (20) in the curved sleeve are determined.
2. A method of making a curved sleeve garment according to claim 1, wherein the length of the first sleeve bottom (101) is less than the length of the first sleeve back (102) and the length of the second sleeve bottom (201) is less than the length of the second sleeve back (202).
3. The method of producing a curved sleeve garment according to claim 1, wherein the first sleeve piece (10) is further provided with a first cuff (103), the second sleeve piece (20) is further provided with a second cuff (203), and the first cuff (103) and the second cuff (203) are the same in length.
4. The method for producing a curved sleeve garment according to claim 1, wherein the first sleeve piece (10) is further provided with a first shoulder opening (104) protruding outward, the second sleeve piece (20) is further provided with a second shoulder opening (204) recessed inward, the first shoulder opening (104) and the second shoulder opening (204) are both connected to the garment piece (300), the first shoulder opening (104) is located on the outer side, and the second shoulder opening (204) is located on the inner side close to the garment piece (300).
5. The method for producing a curved sleeve garment according to claim 1, wherein said step S1 comprises:
S1.1, making a waist line (301) along the horizontal direction, and making a front central line (304) and a rear central line (305) at two ends of the waist line (301) perpendicular to the waist line (301) respectively;
s1.2, making a chest girth line (306) parallel to the girth line (301), setting a first reference point (307) at the midpoint of the chest girth line (306), and making a front piece side stitch (302) and a back piece side stitch (303) by taking the first reference point (307) as a starting point;
s1.3, setting a second datum point (308) at a first preset distance from the first datum point (307) along the vertical direction;
S1.4, arranging a front collar on the top end of a front central line (304), and arranging a rear collar on the top end of a rear central line (305);
S1.5, making a front armhole (317) according to the front collar and the second reference point (308), and making a rear armhole (327) according to the rear collar and the first reference point (307) so as to finish the manufacturing of the garment piece (300).
6. The method of manufacturing a curved sleeve garment according to claim 1, wherein the spacing between the first sleeve bottom arc (521) and the sleeve base guideline (520) and between the second sleeve bottom arc (522) and the sleeve base guideline (520) is the same, and the spacing between the first sleeve back arc (531) and the sleeve back reference line (530) and between the second sleeve back arc (532) and the sleeve back reference line (530) is the same.
7. The method of manufacturing a curved sleeve garment according to claim 1, wherein the first sleeve bottom arc line (521) and the second sleeve bottom arc line (522) are both arranged to be concave inwards, the first sleeve back arc line (531) and the second sleeve back arc line (532) are both arranged to be convex outwards, and the radians of the first sleeve bottom arc line and the second sleeve back arc line (522) are both consistent with the natural bending radian of an arm when a human body leans forwards.
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| CN108741344A (en) * | 2018-05-18 | 2018-11-06 | 上海璞利服饰有限公司 | It is a kind of control sleeve forward leaning angle sleeve-matching method and its preparation with sleeve |
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| CN108741344A (en) * | 2018-05-18 | 2018-11-06 | 上海璞利服饰有限公司 | It is a kind of control sleeve forward leaning angle sleeve-matching method and its preparation with sleeve |
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