JP3740684B2 - Wearable prototype maker and drawing method for clothing pattern - Google Patents

Wearable prototype maker and drawing method for clothing pattern Download PDF

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JP3740684B2
JP3740684B2 JP2005041255A JP2005041255A JP3740684B2 JP 3740684 B2 JP3740684 B2 JP 3740684B2 JP 2005041255 A JP2005041255 A JP 2005041255A JP 2005041255 A JP2005041255 A JP 2005041255A JP 3740684 B2 JP3740684 B2 JP 3740684B2
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sleeve
prototype
waist
dart
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JP2005240268A (en
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雅子 山▲崎▼
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雅子 山▲崎▼
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本発明は、衣服を作るときに使用する型紙を作図するための、体の各所の寸法を計り製作する装着式原型製作器と衣服の型紙の作図方法に関するものである。    The present invention relates to a wearable prototype maker for measuring the dimensions of various parts of a body and a method for drawing a pattern of clothes for drawing a pattern used for making clothes.

従来の衣服の製図においては身体の各所のメジャーの計測値のみで原型を作図するため、各人の体型への対応が困難で、正確性を欠き、時間を要した。    In the conventional drawing of clothes, since the prototype is drawn only with the measurement values of the major parts of the body, it is difficult to cope with each person's body shape, lacking accuracy, and time is required.

発明が解決しようとする課題Problems to be solved by the invention

従来のメジャーのみの計測では、製図に必要な衿ぐり線、肩線(肩傾斜)、肩ダーツ量、胸ダーツ量、ウエストの細まりのダーツ量、袖ぐり線、腕と胴体(袖と身頃)との関係、腕の状態など計測できない部分があり、体型を製図に表現するためのデータが不足気味であった。    In the conventional measurement with only majors, the neckline, shoulder line (shoulder slope), shoulder dart amount, chest dart amount, waist dart amount, armhole and body (sleeves and body) ) And the state of the arm, etc. cannot be measured, and the data for expressing the figure in the drawing was insufficient.

本発明は、取り扱いが簡単で、正確なヒップラインより上の身頃フィット原型と袖のタイト原型を作ることができる装着式原型製作器とその原型を元にした衣服の型紙の作図方法を提供することを目的とする。    The present invention provides a wearable prototype maker that is easy to handle and can produce a body fitting prototype and a sleeve tight prototype above the accurate hip line, and a method for drawing a garment pattern based on the prototype. For the purpose.

課題を解決するための手段Means for solving the problem

上記の問題点を解決するために、請求項1に記載の発明の、薄手で透明の柔軟性のある所定の寸法の板を、前身頃左右2枚、後ろ身頃左右2枚、計4枚用意し、前の右身頃板面に前中心線、ヒップライン、ウエストライン、バストライン、衿ぐり線、肩線、袖ぐり線と腋点(腕と胴体の分岐点)と袖との合い印、脇線、胸ダーツ線、ウエストダーツ線を入れ、胸ダーツとウエストダーツはダーツ止まりまで切り込みを入れ、前中心線と脇線とウエストダーツのウエスト部に切り込みを入れ、衿ぐりと袖下ぐりに切り込みを入れ、前の左身頃板面は前記右身頃板面の線対称に前記各線を入れ、前記各部に切り込みを入れ、後ろ右身頃板面は後ろ中心線、ヒップライン、ウエストライン、バストライン、衿ぐり線、肩線、袖ぐり線と腋点と袖との合い印、脇線、肩ダーツ線、ウエストダーツ線を入れ、肩ダーツとウエストダーツはダーツ止まりまで切り込みを入れ、後ろ中心線と脇線とウエストダーツのウエスト部に切り込みを入れ、衿ぐりと袖下ぐりに切り込みを入れ、後ろ左身頃板面は前記右身頃板面の線対称に前記各線を入れ、前期各部に切り込みを入れ、各所に着脱自在な着脱具を取り付け、前記後ろ右身頃面の腋点に腕の太さと長さを計測し、身頃との関係を把握するためのメジャーを着脱自在の着脱具で取り付けたことを特徴とする装着式原型製作器を提供する。In order to solve the above problems, the thin and transparent flexible plate of the predetermined size according to the first aspect of the present invention is prepared in a total of four pieces, two on the front body and two on the left and right on the back. The front center line, hip line, waist line, bust line, neckline, shoulder line, armhole line, saddle point (branch point between arm and torso) and sleeve, Insert the side line, chest dart line, waist dart line, cut the chest dart and waist dart to the dart end, cut the front center line, the side line and the waist part of the waist dart, cut into the neckline and under the sleeve , The front left body plate surface is lined symmetrically with the right body plate surface, and each part is cut, the back right body plate surface is the back center line, hip line, waist line, bust line, Line of neckline, shoulder line, armhole line, saddle point and sleeve Insert the mark, side line, shoulder dart line, waist dart line, cut the shoulder dart and waist dart until the dart stops, cut the back center line, the side line and the waist part of the waist dart. incised boring, behind left body plate surface put the each line in line symmetry of the right body plate surface, incised year each part, fitted with a freely detachable member detachably attached to various locations, the rear right body surface axillary Provided is a wearable prototype maker that measures the thickness and length of the arm at the point and attaches a measure for grasping the relationship with the body with a detachable detachable tool .

また、請求項に記載のように、装着者のバスト回り、ヒップ回り、ウエスト回りを予め計測し、ゆとり分を加えたサイズに、装着式原型製作器の着脱自在な着脱具を留めて組み立て、装着させ、ヒップラインを床面に平行に固定して、体に合わせて留め直し調整して、印付けをして、体からはずし、平らにして紙に写して、ヒップラインより上の身頃フィット原型を装着式原型製作器で手早く得る方法を提供する。In addition, as described in claim 2 , the wearer's bust, hips, and waist are measured in advance, and the removable prototype of the wearable prototype maker is fastened to the size with the space added. , Put the hip line parallel to the floor surface, fix it according to the body, adjust it, mark it, remove it from the body, flatten it on the paper, the body above the hip line A method for quickly obtaining a fit prototype with a wearable prototype creator is provided.

また、請求項に記載の身頃原型に対応させた袖のタイト原型を装着式原型製作器と取り付けたメジャーで計測したデータを元に袖山線、袖幅線、肘線、袖口線、肩先、腋点腕の寸法点、身頃の脇点と脇線を入れ、腋点(腕の寸法点)を基準に袖の原型としてのゆとり分を入れ、袖幅を決め、袖山曲線に身頃との合い印を付け、肘ぐせ線、肘ダーツ線、袖の側面ガイドラインを入れて作図する方法を提供する。In addition, based on the data measured with a measure that attaches a tight prototype of the sleeve corresponding to the body prototype of claim 3 and a wearable prototype production device, it is based on the Sodeyama line, sleeve width line, elbow line, cuff line, shoulder tip, Put the dimension point of the saddle point arm, the side point and side line of the body, put the space as the prototype of the sleeve based on the saddle point (dimension point of the arm), decide the sleeve width, fit the body part on the Sodeyama curve Provides a method of marking and drawing with elbow lines, elbow dart lines, and sleeve side guidelines.

また、請求項に記載の身頃フィット原型を元に衣服のデザインにより胸ダーツと肩ダーツのゆとり分(体から離れる分)を度数で各所に配分し、デザインによりダーツを移動して、バスト回り、ウエスト回り、ヒップ回りにゆとり分を加え、袖ぐりに原型と同じ高さの腋点と袖との合い印を付け、裾線は床面に平行のヒップラインを目安に決めて衣服の型紙を作図する方法を提供する。In addition, the chest dart and shoulder darts are separated from the body by the design of the body fitting based on the body fitting fit of claim 4 , and the darts are moved according to the design. Add space to the waist and hips, mark the sleeves at the same height with the saddle points and sleeves, and use the hip line parallel to the floor as a guideline. Provide a method of drawing.

また、請求項に記載の袖のタイト原型を元に衣服のデザインに応じ、袖幅線を衣服の脇点に対応して決め、腋点を基準に衣服の袖のゆとり分を加えて、身頃の袖下ぐりと同寸を袖幅線に引いて袖幅を決め、袖山曲線を描き、身頃の袖ぐりとの合い印を付けゆとり分を入れて袖下線を描き、デザインにより切り替え線やダーツ線を入れて袖の型紙を作図する方法を提供する。Moreover, according to the design of the clothes based on the tight prototype of the sleeve according to claim 5 , the sleeve width line is determined corresponding to the side points of the clothes, and the space of the sleeves of the clothes is added based on the saddle points, Pull the same size as the underarms of the body to the sleeve width line to determine the sleeve width, draw the Sodeyama curve, mark the gap with the body armholes, draw a space, and draw the sleeve underline, switching lines and dart lines depending on the design A method for drawing a pattern of sleeves is provided.

発明の効果The invention's effect

請求項1に記載の薄手で透明で体の丸みに添う柔軟性のある板に、ヒップラインを床面に平行の直線にし、所定の原型線の外枠線に、ウエストライン、バストライン、ウエストダーツ線、胸ダーツ線、肩ダーツ線、袖ぐり線に腋点と袖との合い印を入れ、大きめに切り取り、各ダーツを切り込み、前後ろ中心線、肩線、脇線、各ダーツ線上の各所に着脱自在な着脱具を取り付けておき、請求項3に記載のように予め予測する大きさに着脱自在な着脱具を留めて組み立て、体に装着してヒップラインを床面に平行に固定して体に合わせ各所の着脱自在な着脱具を留め直し、調整し、後で消すことのできるペンで印付けと線を描き入れて、体からはずして、平らに広げて製図用紙に写すことにより、各人の体型に合うヒップラインから上の身頃フィット原型が手早くできる。    The thin, transparent and flexible plate according to claim 1, wherein the hip line is a straight line parallel to the floor surface, and the outer frame line of a predetermined prototype line is a waist line, a bust line, a waist Mark the dart line, chest dart line, shoulder dart line, and armhole line with scissors and sleeves, cut out larger, cut each dart, front back center line, shoulder line, side line, on each dart line Removable attachments are attached at various locations, and the removable attachments are assembled in a size that is predicted in advance as described in claim 3, and attached to the body to fix the hip line parallel to the floor surface. Then, reattach and remove the removable attachments at various locations according to the body, draw markings and lines with a pen that can be erased later, remove it from the body, spread it flat, and copy it onto the drawing paper The hips line up from the hip line that fits each person's body shape Tsu door prototype can be quickly.

また、請求項に記載の発明によれば、装着式原型製作器に着脱自在な着脱具で取り付けたメジャーにより袖と身頃との関係や腕の長さと腋点部の後ろ腋点から前腋点までの寸法と肘ぐせが分かり、そのデータを元に作図すれば、各人の腕に合う身頃に対応した袖のタイト原型ができる。According to the first aspect of the present invention, a measure attached to the wearable prototype maker with a detachable attachment / detachment tool, the relationship between the sleeve and the body, the length of the arm, and the back saddle point of the saddle point portion, the front heel If you know the dimensions and elbows up to the point, and draw the data based on the data, you can create a tight prototype for the sleeve that matches the body of each person.

上述したように本発明の装着式原型製作器は製図に必要で従来計測できなかった体の各部分(ネックポイント、ネックライン、肩線、肩ダーツ量、胸ダーツ量、ウエストダーツ量、袖ぐり線、袖と身頃の関係)の状態が分かるので、手早く正確なヒップラインから身頃までのフィット原型と袖のタイト原型を製作できる。    As described above, the wearable prototype maker of the present invention is necessary for drafting and has not been able to be measured in the past (the neck point, neckline, shoulder line, shoulder dart amount, chest dart amount, waist dart amount, armholes). The relationship between the line, sleeve, and body) can be understood, so you can quickly and accurately produce a fit prototype from the hip line to the body and a tight prototype of the sleeve.

また、身頃の原型はヒップラインまであり、ヒッププラインを床面に平行の直線にしそのヒップラインを目安に衣服の裾線を決められるので便利である。    Also, the body model is up to the hip line, which is convenient because the hip purline is a straight line parallel to the floor and the hem line of the clothes can be determined using the hip line as a guide.

また、身頃原型の胸ダーツ量と肩ダーツ量は各人の胸の大きさと肩の状態を度数で表現し、その度数を元に、デザインに応じて体から浮く分とゆとり分を各所に適度に配分し、残りのダーツ分をデザインに応じて移動するので解り易く便利である。    In addition, the chest dart volume and shoulder dart volume of the body part represent each person's chest size and shoulder condition in degrees, and based on the frequency, the amount floating and clear from the body according to the design is moderate in various places Since the remaining darts are moved according to the design, it is easy to understand and convenient.

また、袖のタイト原型は腋点(胴体と腕の分岐点)の後ろから前の腕の寸法点を印すので衣服の袖のデザインにより腋点部のゆとり分を適量に加え作図ができる。    In addition, the tight model of the sleeve marks the dimension point of the front arm from the back of the saddle point (branch point of the torso and arms).

また、袖のタイト原型は、各人の上腕と肘の太さと腕を前に出す運動量を入れ、肘ぐせ線と肘ダーツ線と側面ガイドラインを入れてあるので、衣服の袖の作図の際はデザインに応じ原型線を目安にゆとり分を加え、袖下線やダーツ線や切り替え線を入れられるので便利である。    In addition, the tight model of the sleeve includes the arm's upper arm and elbow thickness and the amount of momentum to move the arm forward, and the elbow line, elbow dart line and side guidelines are included, so when drawing clothes sleeves Depending on the design, it is convenient because it allows you to add a space based on the prototype line and insert a sleeve line, dart line, or switching line.

また、袖のタイト原型は前後ろとも腋点に身頃との合印を付け、衣服のデザインの作図においても、この腋点を基準に身頃も袖も腋点の高さを変えずに作図するので、合い印が明確で、分かり易く、身頃に対応した付け易い袖の作図ができる。    In addition, the front and back of the sleeve tight pattern is marked with the body at the saddle points, and the body and sleeves are drawn without changing the height of the saddle points on the basis of this saddle point. Therefore, it is possible to draw a sleeve with a clear seal, easy to understand, and easy to attach to the body.

上述したように、これらの原型を元に衣服のデザインに対応させて型紙を作図する本発明の方法は、明確で解り易いので、体に適度にフィットした着易い衣服の型紙を作図することができる。    As described above, since the method of the present invention for drawing a pattern according to the design of clothes based on these prototypes is clear and easy to understand, it is possible to draw a pattern for easy-to-wear clothing that fits the body appropriately. it can.

衣服用身頃フィット原型と袖タイト原型を製作するための本発明の装着式原型製作器の作り方と、装着と調整の仕方と、袖の原型の作図と、本発明の身頃と袖の原型を元にした衣服の型紙の作図方法を以下詳述する。    Based on the body and sleeve prototype of the present invention, how to make the wearable prototype maker of the present invention to produce the body fit prototype and sleeve tight prototype for clothing, how to wear and adjust, the drawing of the sleeve prototype, and the body and sleeve prototype of the present invention The method of drawing the pattern of the clothes will be described in detail below.

…装着式原型製作器の作り方…本発明の装着式原型製作器は、薄手で透明の柔軟性のあるプラスティック製(ポリプロピレン)の板で図1と図2に示すように製作する。なおここではプラスティックを使用するがプラスティックに限定する物ではない。    ... How to make a wearable prototype production device ... The wearable prototype production device of the present invention is made of a thin and transparent plastic (polypropylene) plate as shown in Figs. Although plastic is used here, it is not limited to plastic.

最初にJIS規格A体型9号の人台に、床面に平行にヒップライン(臀部後突点の床面に平行の線)、バストライン(乳頭点=BPの床面に平行の線)、前中心線、後ろ中心線、肩線、脇線、袖ぐり線、衿ぐり線、に黒テープを付け、ウエストの納まりの良い位置に2cm幅の黒色のベルトを巻きつける。桝目入りのシーチングを幅30cm、長さ70cmに切り、蒸気アイロンで縦地と横地を直角に整え、人台に当て立体裁断をする。後ろ身頃はヒップライン(HL)に横地の目線を当てゆとりを1cm入れてピンで留め、縦地の目線を後ろ中心線(BC)に添わせて当て、ウエスト部と衿ぐりの背中心を留め、適度にゆとりを入れながらウエストの細まりに添わせてウエストダーツと脇線(バストで1cmのゆとり)を留め、肩ダーツをたたみ、肩線を決める。前身ごろはヒップライン(HL)に横地の目線を当て、ゆとりを1cm入れて留め、縦地の目線を前中心線(FC)に当て体に適度に添わせてウエストと衿ぐりの前中心を留め、ウエストダーツと脇線(バストで1cmのゆとり)を留め、胸ダーツをたたみ、肩線を決める。バストライン、ウエストライン(ウエストベルトの上縁)と前と後ろの衿ぐり線と袖ぐり線を人台の線を写し描く。前腋点と後ろ腋点を印す。はずして印付けをしサイズチェックをして補正し、もう一度組み立て、人台に着せて全ての線の位置とダーツ量とゆとり量など原型として適当であるかをチェックして原型線と各ダーツ線を決め、型紙に写す。    First, on the pedestal of JIS standard A body No. 9, hip line parallel to the floor (line parallel to the floor of the rear part of the buttocks), bust line (papillary point = line parallel to the floor of BP), Attach black tape to the front center line, back center line, shoulder line, side line, armhole line, and neckline, and wrap a 2cm wide black belt around the waist. Cut the sheet with a grid of 30 cm and a length of 70 cm, use a steam iron to make the vertical and horizontal grounds at right angles, and slicing them against a pedestal. At the back of the body, place the horizontal line of sight on the hip line (HL) and pin it with a pin, pin the vertical line along the back center line (BC), and fasten the waist and the back center of the neckline. Put the waist darts and side lines (1cm clear in the bust) along with the narrowing of the waist with moderate clearance, fold the shoulder darts, and determine the shoulder line. At the front, put the horizontal line of sight on the hip line (HL), put a space of 1cm, and put the vertical line of sight on the front center line (FC) to fit the body moderately and fasten the front center of the waist and neckline Fasten the waist darts and side lines (1cm in the bust), fold the chest darts, and determine the shoulder line. The bust line, waist line (upper edge of the waist belt), front and back neckline and armhole lines are copied to represent the line of the person. Mark the front and back saddle points. Remove it, mark it, check the size, correct it, reassemble it, put it on the platform, check the position of all lines, the amount of darts and the amount of space, etc. And copy it onto the pattern.

上記の立体裁断で得られた原型線の外枠線とヒップライン、ウエストライン、バストライン、胸ダーツ線、肩ダーツ線、ウエストダーツ線をここでは薄手で透明の柔軟性のあるプラスティックに、図のように前後ろ身頃左右共に消えないように黒で描いて、図1と2のような寸法に大きめに切り取り、ダーツはダーツ止まりまで図のように切り込み、乳頭点(BP)下のダーツはヒップライン(HL)下まで切り離しておく。ウエストライン(WL)部は各所切り込みを入れておく。衿ぐりと袖下ぐりも細かく切り込みを入れて、角は肌に当たっても痛くないように角を取っておく。図のように肩線、脇線、ダーツ各所に裏面に接着剤の付いたマジックテープ(登録商標)を貼り付ける。図2のように腕を計測するために長さ30cmの細いメジャーの両端にマジックテープを貼り付け(後ろ脇点側5cm、前腋点側10cm)そのメジャーに長さ68cm(上に15cm、下に53cm)の細いメジャーを横に移動するように取り付け、メジャーの右端を袖山線とし、交点をC点とした物を後ろ身頃の腋点にマジックテープ(登録商標)で取り付ける。ここでは着脱自在の着脱具としてマジックテープを使用するがマジックテープに限定するものではない。身頃の原型製作器は9号サイズのものは7〜11号サイズに近い人に使用でき、15号サイズのものは13〜17号サイズに近い人に使用できる。身長は158cmとして作るが、153cmから163cmに対応できる。    The outline of the original line obtained by the above draping and the hip line, waist line, bust line, chest dart line, shoulder dart line, and waist dart line are shown here as a thin, transparent and flexible plastic. Draw in black so that both the left and right front and back bodies do not disappear, cut into large dimensions as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and cut the dart as shown in the figure until the dart stops, and the dart under the nipple point (BP) is Separate until the hip line (HL). Cut the waistline (WL) part in various places. Make fine cuts in the neckline and underarms so that the corners do not hurt when they hit the skin. As shown in the figure, attach Velcro (registered trademark) with adhesive on the back, shoulder lines, side lines, and darts. To measure the arm as shown in Fig. 2, velcro tape is attached to both ends of a thin 30cm long measure (5cm on the back side and 10cm on the front saddle point). A 53cm) thin measure is attached so that it moves sideways, and the right end of the measure is the Sodeyama line, and the intersection point C is attached to the saddle point of the back body with Velcro. Here, a velcro is used as a detachable detachable tool, but is not limited to a velcro. The body maker can be used for those who are close to size 7-11, and those for size 15 can be used for people close to size 13-17. The height is 158cm, but it can accommodate 153cm to 163cm.

…装着式原型製作器の使用方法…本発明の装着式原型製作器の使用手順を以下に説明する。袖の計測方法は図3に示す。    ... How to use the wearable prototype creator ... The procedure for using the wearable prototype creator of the present invention will be described below. The sleeve measuring method is shown in FIG.

1.予め、装着者のバスト回り、ウエスト回り、ヒップ回りの寸法に適度なゆとり(4cm以上)を入れ、予測されるサイズに背中心(BC)、脇、ウエストダーツのマジックテープ(登録商標)を留めておく。    1. Put a suitable clearance (4cm or more) around the wearer's bust, waist and hips in advance, and fasten the back center (BC), side, and waist dart Velcro (registered trademark) to the expected size. Keep it.

2.装着者のウエストのおさまりの良い位置に2cm幅のベルトを巻き付けてから装着式原型製作器を装着させ、装着者の乳頭点(BP)の高さに原形製作器のBPを合わせ、適度にゆとりを入れ前中心線をFCラインに平行に胸部、ウエスト部、ヒップ部、首部を留め、脇線とウエストダーツを必要なら体に合わせて留め直し、装着式原型製作器のHLを錘付きメジャーで見て、前部分、後ろ部分、脇部分とも同じ床面に平行の寸法に固定しておく(スカートにセロハンテープで止めると安定する)。    2. Wrap a 2cm wide belt around the wearer's waist and place the wearable prototype maker on the wearer's nipple (BP). Put the center line parallel to the FC line and fasten the chest, waist, hips, and neck, and fix the side lines and waist darts to the body if necessary. Look, and fix the front part, the rear part, and the side part to the same parallel dimensions on the floor (stable with cellophane tape on the skirt).

3.肩のネックポイントを前後ろとも首に添うように前後合わせて留め、後ろの肩ダーツを肩の丸みに添わせて留め、肩先を前後合わせて留める。装着者の肩ダーツ止まりの点を水性カラーペンで印す。    3. Attach the shoulder neck points to the front and back to fit the front and back, fasten the back shoulder darts along the rounded shoulders, and fit the shoulder tips back and forth. Mark the wearer's shoulder dart point with a water-based color pen.

4.胸ダーツを胸のふくらみに合わせて脇部のゆとり分を残しながら重ね留める。装着者のバストポイントを水性カラーペンで印す。    4). Align the chest darts with the chest bulge and keep it on the side, leaving plenty of space on the sides. Mark the wearer's bust point with a water-based color pen.

5.4ヶ所のウエストダーツと脇線を無理なく体に添わせてウエスト部分で留め直しウエストダーツの上下も留める。バストポイント下のダーツはお腹のふくらみの程度で開く場合と重なる場合がある。    5. Attach the waist darts and the side lines to the body without difficulty and fasten them at the waist. The darts under the bust point may overlap with the opening at the level of bulging of the stomach.

6.全体を見直した後、水性カラーペンで装着者のヒップライン(臀部後突点の床面に平行の直線)を錘付きメジャーで床面に平行に印し(原型製作器のHLに平行)、バストポイントとバストライン(BPと同じ高さ=BL)も床面に平行に印す(胸の大きい人は原型製作器のBLに平行にならない)。ウエストライン(WL)をウエストベルトの上縁に印す(通常後ろが0.5cm以上下がる)。    6). After reviewing the whole, mark the wearer's hip line (a straight line parallel to the floor at the back of the buttocks) parallel to the floor with a measure with a weight (parallel to the HL of the prototype maker) with a water-based color pen. The bust point and bust line (the same height as BP = BL) are also marked parallel to the floor (people with large breasts will not be parallel to the maker's BL). Mark the waist line (WL) on the upper edge of the waist belt (usually lower the back by 0.5 cm or more).

7.水性カラーペンで装着者の後ろ中心線と前中心線(BC、FCの目安の線に平行)、脇線、肩線、肩ダーツ、ウエストダーツ4ヶ所、胸ダーツ、衿ぐり線と前後のネックポイント、袖ぐり線と前後ろ身頃の腋点(腕と胴体の分岐点)と脇点(脇の下の腕付け根より1cm下)に印と線を描く、水性カラーペンは使用後拭けば落ちる。    7). With water-based color pen, the wearer's back center line and front center line (parallel to the BC and FC guide lines), side lines, shoulder lines, shoulder darts, four waist darts, chest darts, neckline and front and rear necks Draw marks and lines on the points, armholes and saddle points (arm and torso bifurcation points) and armpits (1 cm below the arm base below the armpits) on the front and back bodies.

8.装着者は腕を自然に下げ、7の装着者の後ろ腋点(腕と胴体の分岐点)の原型製作器の位置にメジャーの左端のマジックテープ(登録商標)を留め取り付け、図3のように前腋点(後ろより1cm位高い)にのばし、マジックテープ(着脱自在な着脱具)で留め、腋点の腕の寸法(後ろ腋点から前腋点までの寸法)を記録しておく。    8). The wearer naturally lowers his arm and attaches the Velcro tape (registered trademark) on the left end of the measure to the position of the maker on the back saddle point (branch point of arm and torso) of 7 wearer, as shown in FIG. Extend to the front saddle point (1 cm higher than the back), fasten with Velcro (detachable attachment), and record the arm size (dimension from the back saddle point to the front saddle point).

9.図3のように、袖山線になる長いメジャーを腕幅の中心(C点とする)に移動しC点の位置を記録し,下に肘幅の側面の中心に伸ばし、手首までまっすぐ直線で延長させて袖丈(C点から袖口の数値)、肘ぐせ幅(袖山線から手首の側面中心点までの寸法)と肘丈(C点から肘までの数値)と身頃のバストライン(BL)位置も記録しておく。    9. As shown in Fig. 3, move the long measure that becomes the sleeve mountain line to the center of the arm width (C point), record the position of C point, extend down to the center of the side of the elbow width, and straight up to the wrist Lengthened sleeve length (number from C point to cuff), elbow width (size from Sodeyama line to wrist center point), elbow length (number from C point to elbow) and body bust line (BL) position Also record.

10.図3のように袖山線になるメジャーC点から上(肩先)に下からまっすぐ直線で延長させて身頃の肩先(SP)付近までのばしC点から肩先までの寸法と身頃の肩先と袖山線との差を記録しておく。    10. As shown in Fig. 3, the length from the major point C, which is the Sodeyama line, to the top (shoulder) is extended straight from the bottom to the vicinity of the shoulder (SP) of the body. Record the difference.

11.図3のように水性カラーペンで身頃のバスト部の腕幅とウエスト部に肘線位置と腕幅を装着式身頃原型製作器の脇部に印しておく。    11. As shown in FIG. 3, the arm width and arm width of the bust part of the body are marked on the side of the wearable body maker with the water color pen.

12 装着式原型製作器の前中心線の印しを確認し、マジックテープ(登録商標)をはがし、体からはずし、脇線と肩線とダーツ各線に裏からも印付けをし、11の印より脇部にバストライン部とウエスト部の肘線位置の腕幅の中心点を繋いで腕幅の中心線を袖の袖山線として描く。    12 Check the mark on the front center line of the wearable prototype maker, remove the Velcro (registered trademark), remove it from the body, mark the side lines, shoulder lines and dart lines from the back as well. The arm width center point of the bust line part and the elbow line position of the waist part is connected to the side part, and the center line of the arm width is drawn as a sleeve crest line.

13.マジックテープ(登録商標)をはがして、平らに広げて、水性カラーペンのヒップラインから上の身頃フィット原型を製図用紙に移し、袖ぐりに袖との合い印を前身頃は肩先から6cm、後ろ身頃は肩先から7cmの位置に付けておく。透明の板に写して切り取っておくと衣服の型紙の作図に便利である。    13. Remove Velcro (registered trademark), spread it flat, and transfer the upper body fitting prototype from the hip line of the water color pen to the drawing paper. The body should be 7cm away from the shoulder. Copying it on a transparent board and cutting it out is useful for drawing clothes patterns.

…袖タイト原型の作図の仕方…以下、1〜9において袖タイト原型を作図する手順について説明する。装着式原型製作器と取り付けた腕計測メジャーのデータを用いて図4に示すように作図する。上腕回りと肘回り(かるく曲げて)は従来のメジャーで計測しておく。    ... How to draw a sleeve tight prototype ... Hereinafter, a procedure for drawing a sleeve tight prototype in 1 to 9 will be described. Drawing is performed as shown in FIG. 4 using the data of the wearable prototype maker and the attached arm measurement measure. The upper arm circumference and elbow circumference (bend slightly) are measured with a conventional measure.

1.製図用紙に袖山線を縦に引き、装着式原型製作器と腕計測メジャーのデータよりC点、BL位置、脇点(身頃のBLから脇点の寸法と同じ。袖山線から横にずれることがある)を印し、脇点上に袖幅線を袖山線に直角に横線を引く。    1. Draw a sodama line vertically on the drafting paper, and point C, BL position, side points (same dimensions from the body BL to the side points from the wearable prototype maker and arm measurement measure data. Mark), and draw a horizontal line on the side point and a horizontal line at right angles to the sleeve mountain line.

2.装着式原型製作器の身頃脇部の袖山線より1の脇点から身頃の脇線を引き、その脇点と脇線に身頃の脇点と脇線を合わせて、前後の身頃の脇点から腋点までの袖下ぐり線を写し描き、身頃の前腋点と後ろ腋点を印し(腋点は前の方が1cm位高い)その前後ろの腋点を袖幅線に平行に外側に線を引いて、その線上にメジャーのデータから記録したC点を合わせて腋点の腕の寸法を点で印す(C点より後ろが1cm位多い)。C点を基点に袖丈(袖山点と袖口)と肘丈を印し袖口の基準線と肘線を袖幅線に平行(袖山線に直角)引いておく。身頃の肩先(SP)も目安として印す    2. Draw a side line on the body from one side point from the Sodeyama line on the side of the body of the wearable prototype maker, align the side point and side line of the body to the side point and side line, from the side points of the front and back body parts Copy the underline to the saddle point and mark the front and back saddle points of the body (the saddle point is about 1 cm higher at the front). The front and back saddle points are parallel to the sleeve width line. Draw a line on the line, put the point C recorded from the measure data on the line, and mark the arm dimension of the saddle point with a point (about 1 cm behind the point C). The sleeve length (sleeve crest and cuff) and elbow length are marked from point C, and the cuff reference line and elbow line are drawn parallel to the sleeve width line (perpendicular to the sleeve crest line). Also mark the shoulder shoulder (SP) as a guide

3.袖山線の肘位置から袖口に向けて計測より肘ぐせ幅を印し、肘ぐせ線を引き、その線に直角に袖口線を袖口回り(手回り寸法プラス2cm)の4分の1の長さを前側と後側に引く。    3. From the elbow position of the Sodega Line toward the cuff, mark the elbow width from the measurement, draw the elbow line, and make the quarter length of the cuff line around the cuff (hand size plus 2 cm) perpendicular to the line. Pull to the front and rear.

4.腋点の腕の寸法点に前1cm以上、後ろは前に腕を出せるよう1.5cm以上のゆとりを入れて袖幅線に平行に外に印し(袖の前後の腋点)、その点と2の身頃の腋点の間の半分の点を前後共印し、その点から前側は肘線上肘周り寸法に2cm加えた4分の1の長さを袖山線から前側にとった点に繋ぎ、袖口は3の手回り寸法に2cm加えた4分の1を肘ぐせ線から両側にとった点の前側に引く。後ろ側は前記の腋点部の点と後ろ肘線上前の肘周り4分の1寸法より1cm外(肘を曲げるため)と繋いで、3の袖口4分の1の点へ繋ぎ、袖の側面ガイドラインを示す。このガイドラインは2枚袖の製図の目安になる。    4). Put a space of 1cm or more in front of the arm of the saddle point and a space of 1.5cm or more in the back so that the arm can be put out in front, and mark it outside in parallel with the sleeve width line (saddle points before and after the sleeve). A half point between the saddle point of the body and 2 is marked with the front and back, and from that point the front side is taken from the Sodeyama line to a length of one-quarter of the elbow line plus 2 cm. Tie the cuffs to the front of the points taken on both sides from the elbow lines by adding 2 cm to the hand circumference of 3 cm. The back side is connected to the point of the above-mentioned saddle point and 1 cm outside the quarter of the elbow around the front elbow line (to bend the elbow), and the cuff is connected to the 1/4 point of the cuff. Provide side guidelines. This guideline is a guide for drawing two-sleeves.

5.前後共4で設定した袖の腋点から袖幅線に向けて身頃の腋点から脇点の直線と同寸の直線を引いてから身頃袖下ぐり線より浅めに描く(腕を上げるゆとり分)。設定した袖幅が装着者の上腕回りの寸法にどの程度のゆとりがあるか見ておく(3.5cm以上必要)。    5). Draw a straight line of the same size as the straight line of the armpit from the saddle point of the body toward the sleeve width line from the collar point of the sleeve set in both front and rear, and then draw shallower than the underarm line of the body (the space to raise the arm) ). Check how much space the set sleeve width has on the wearer's upper arm circumference (3.5 cm or more required).

6.袖山点に向けて袖の前後腋点から直線を引き、2cm位ふくらませて腕の肩部の状態に合わせて袖山曲線を描く。図のようにいせ分を入れて曲線を調整し、身頃との合印を付けておく。肩先との合い印SPは計測より移動するが衣服の作図でまた移動することが多いが目安になる。(腋点の高さは衣服の作図の際も袖も身頃も動かない)    6). Draw a straight line from the front and back saddle points of the sleeve toward the sleeve point, inflate it about 2cm, and draw a sleeve curve according to the state of the shoulder of the arm. As shown in the figure, adjust the curve by adding the weight and put a mark on the body. The alignment mark SP with the shoulder tip moves from the measurement, but it often moves again in the drawing of clothes, but it is a guideline. (The height of the saddle point does not move when drawing clothes, sleeves or body)

7.前袖下線を、図のように前袖幅点から肘点(前肘線上同寸)に腕に添うようにカーブ線を描き、袖口点(4分の1の同寸)に向けて直線を引き、前袖口線を図のように引く。    7). As shown in the figure, draw a curve line from the front sleeve width point to the elbow point (same size on the front elbow line) as shown in the figure, and straighten the straight line toward the cuff point (same size of 1/4) Pull the front cuff line as shown.

8.後ろ袖下線を図のように後ろ袖幅点から肘点(後ろ肘線上同寸…肘を曲げるために2cmのゆとりを後ろに入れる)に直線を引き、袖口まで延長させておく。    8). As shown in the figure, draw a straight line from the back sleeve width point to the elbow point (the same size on the back elbow line ... 2cm space behind to bend the elbow) and extend to the cuffs.

9.後ろ袖口線を袖下線から手回り寸法に2cm加えた4分の1の寸法の点に引き、その点から後ろ肘線のガイドライン点に向けて線を引き肘ダーツ線とする。    9. The back cuff line is drawn from the undersleeve line to a point of a quarter dimension that is 2 cm added to the hand size, and a line is drawn from that point toward the guide line point of the back elbow line to form an elbow dart line.

以上の袖のタイト原型の各線を紙に写す。透明の板に写して外枠を切り取っておくと、衣服の型紙の作図に便利である。    Copy each line of the above-mentioned sleeve tight prototype on paper. Copying on a transparent board and cutting out the outer frame is convenient for drawing clothes patterns.

…ブラウスの作図例…図5のようなデザインのブラウスの作図について、身頃原型の肩ダーツと胸ダーツのゆとり分としての分散と胸ダーツの移動を図6に、作図を図7に、袖の作図を図8に示す。ここでは標準体型の胸度数14度の原型を使用。布は綿ブロード。    ... Blouse drawing example ... As for the drawing of the blouse with the design as shown in Fig. 5, the dispersion of the shoulder dart and chest dart of the body and the movement of the chest dart are shown in Fig. 6, the drawing is shown in Fig. 7, Drawing is shown in FIG. Here, the standard body model with a breast frequency of 14 degrees is used. The cloth is cotton broad.

1.図6のように原型の胸ダーツと肩ダーツをゆとり分(体から浮く分も含む)として適量を肩先と袖ぐりに分散し、肩ダーツは残り分をダーツにし、胸ダーツの残り分はデザインの前肩線に向けて移動する。    1. As shown in Fig. 6, the appropriate amount of chest darts and shoulder darts (including those that float from the body) are distributed over the shoulders and sleeves. The shoulder darts are darts and the rest of the chest darts are designed. Move towards the front shoulder.

2.前身頃は図7のように1の線を目安に、移動した胸ダーツ線から原型のウエストダーツに向けて切り替え線を描き、裾線は床面に平行のデザインなのでHLに平行に引く。脇線は0.5cmのゆとり分を加え引き、脇点は0.5cm下げて、袖ぐり線を原型線を目安に描き、腋点と合い印は原型の印を使用(必要ならHLに平行に少し外に移動する)。衿ぐり線を原型線を目安に描く。    2. As shown in Fig. 7, the front body draws a switching line from the moved chest dart line to the original waist dart, and draws the hem line parallel to the HL because it is parallel to the floor. The side lines are drawn by adding 0.5 cm of space, the side points are lowered by 0.5 cm, the armhole lines are drawn using the original lines as a guide, and the original marks are used for saddle points and alignment marks (if necessary, parallel to HL) To move a little outside). Draw a boring line using the prototype line as a guide.

3.後ろ身頃は図7のように1の線を目安に、肩ダーツ線から原型のウエストダーツに向けて切り替え線を描き、裾線は前と同じくHLに平行に引く。背中心(BC)はウエスト部にウエストダーツ分を取り、脇線は脇点とヒップで0.5cmのゆとり分を加えウエスト部は原型のウエストダーツの量を見て決める。脇点は0.5cm下げて、袖ぐり線を描き、腋点と合い印は原型の印を使用(必要ならHLに平行に少し外に移動する)。衿ぐり線を原型線を目安に描く。    3. As shown in FIG. 7, the back body is drawn with the line 1 as a guide, and the switching line is drawn from the shoulder dart line to the original waist dart, and the hem line is drawn parallel to HL as before. The center of the back (BC) takes the waist dart part at the waist part, the side line adds 0.5 cm of space between the side point and the hip, and the waist part is determined by the amount of the original waist dart. Lower the side points by 0.5 cm, draw a armhole line, and use the original marks for the saddle points and alignment marks (if necessary, move slightly outside in parallel with HL). Draw a boring line using the prototype line as a guide.

4.袖は図8のようにブラウスの袖の作図に必要な袖タイト原型の袖山線、袖幅線、肘線、袖口線、腋点の腕の寸法点、袖山曲線、袖下線、肘ダーツ線を型紙に写し、その上にブラウスの袖の作図をする。    4). As for the sleeve, as shown in Fig. 8, the sleeve tight line that is necessary for drawing the sleeve of the blouse, sleeve width line, elbow line, cuff line, arm point of saddle point, sodama curve, sleeve underline, elbow dart line Copy it on the paper pattern and draw a blouse sleeve on it.

5.袖の原型の腋点の腕の寸法点を前後ろとも袖幅線に平行に真横に外に前1.2cm、後ろ1.8cmゆとり分を入れブラウスの袖の腋点を決めて、その点から袖幅線(身頃は脇点を0.5cm下げたが袖は腕を上げるゆとり分として袖幅線を下げない)に向けて、ブラウスの身頃の腋点から脇点の直線寸法(図7)を前後ろとも引き(袖幅広くなる)、身頃の袖下ぐり線より浅く袖下ぐり線を描く。袖山曲線は原型線を目安に描き、いせ分をいれて、身頃との合印を印す。腋点以外の合い印の位置は移動する。    5). Determine the heel point of the sleeve of the blouse by inserting the space of the arm of the saddle point of the original sleeve into the front and back parallel to the sleeve width line, 1.2cm forward and 1.8cm behind. From the saddle point of the blouse to the side point (see Fig. 7) ) Is drawn from both front and back (the sleeves become wider) and the underline is drawn shallower than the underline of the body. The Sodeyama curve is drawn using the original line as a guideline, and the mark is marked with the body. The position of the mark other than the saddle point moves.

6.5の袖幅点から肘線、袖口線に向けて原型線を目安にゆとり分を入れ袖下線を引く。肘ダーツは原型の内側に引く。袖口線はこのブラウスでは原型通り。    From the sleeve width point of 6.5 toward the elbow line and cuff line, make a space for the original line and draw the undersleeve line. The elbow dart is pulled inside the prototype. The cuff line is the original in this blouse.

…上衣の作図例…図9のようなパネル切り替えのデザインの上衣のダーツの分散移動を図10に、作図を図11に、2枚袖の作図を図12に示す。布は中肉、肩パットの厚さは0.8cmとする。ここでは胸の大きい胸度数19度の原型を使用(バストラインは図10のように脇線からBPに向けて0.5cm上がり、前肩線は標準体より1cm前後上がる)。    ... Drawing example of upper garment ... Fig. 10 shows the distributed movement of the dart of the upper garment with the panel switching design shown in Fig. 9, Fig. 11 shows the drawing, and Fig. 12 shows the drawing of the two sleeves. The cloth is medium and the thickness of the shoulder pad is 0.8 cm. Here, a prototype with a breast level of 19 degrees is used (the bust line is raised 0.5 cm from the side line toward the BP as shown in FIG. 10, and the front shoulder line is raised about 1 cm from the standard body).

1.図10のように上衣が体から浮く分とゆとり分として前身頃は胸ダーツ分から衿ぐり、肩先、袖ぐりに適量に分散し、後ろ身頃は肩ダーツから肩先と袖ぐりに適量に分散し、残りを胸ダーツ、肩ダーツとする。    1. As shown in Fig. 10, the upper body is spread from the chest darts and the shoulders and sleeves are distributed in an appropriate amount, and the back body is distributed from the shoulder darts to the shoulders and armholes as appropriate. The rest is chest darts and shoulder darts.

2.図11のように身頃の脇点を前後とも1.5cm下げ、脇点で前1.3cm、後ろ1.8cmのゆとり分と布の厚み分を出し、胸幅0.3cm、背幅0.5cm出して、1の原型線を目安に袖ぐり線を描き、腋点と合い印を原型の印しをHLに平行に外に移動する。ウエストとヒップに原型線を目安にゆとり分を入れて脇線を引く。    2. As shown in FIG. 11, the side points of the body are lowered 1.5 cm both in the front and back, and the width of 1.3 cm in front and 1.8 cm in the back and the thickness of the cloth are taken out, and the chest width is 0.3 cm and the back width is 0. Put out 5cm, draw a armhole line with reference to 1 prototype line, and move the saddle point and alignment mark to the outside in parallel with HL. Draw a side line by using the original line as a guideline for the waist and hips.

3.布の厚み分として背中心に0.3cm、前中心は重ね分を加えて0.5cm、肩線はネックポイントで0.3cm、肩先で肩パットの厚み分0.4cm(肩パット厚さ0.8cmの時)を加えて0.7cm高くする。後ろ肩線の肩ダーツはいせる。    3. The thickness of the cloth is 0.3cm at the center of the back, 0.5cm at the front center plus the overlap, the shoulder line is 0.3cm at the neck point, and the shoulder pad is 0.4cm thick at the shoulder (shoulder pad thickness 0 0.7 cm) to increase 0.7 cm. Shoulder darts on the back shoulder line.

4.前身頃の切り替え線を1の胸ダーツからウエストダーツの量を目安に描く。衿ぐり線も原型線を目安に描く。    4). Draw the switching line of the front body from 1 chest dart to the amount of waist dart. Draw the piercing line using the prototype line as a guide.

5.後ろ身頃の背中心のウエスト部で1.3cm位ウエストダーツ分として線を引き、切り替え線を腋点からウエストダーツの量を目安に描く。衿ぐりは原型線を目安に描く。    5). Draw a line at the waist part of the back center of the back body as about 1.3cm waist darts, and draw the switching line from the saddle point to the amount of waist darts. The neckline is drawn using the prototype line as a guide.

6.裾線はデザインが床面に平行なので原型のHLに平行に引く。(裾線が床面に平行でないデザインの場合でもHLに布の横地の目を通すことは変わらない)    6). The skirt line is drawn parallel to the original HL because the design is parallel to the floor. (Even if the hemline is not parallel to the floor, passing the fabric side through the HL does not change)

7.図12のように2枚袖の作図のため、袖のタイト原型の袖山線、袖幅線、腋点の腕の寸法点、肘線、肘ぐせ線、袖口線、身頃の脇線、袖山曲線、SPを写し,ガイドラインは肘部と袖口部に印す。上衣の身頃の脇点は1.5cm下げたが、袖の袖幅線は腕を上げるゆとり分として0.5cm少なく、袖の原型より1cmさげる。    7). As shown in Fig. 12, for the construction of a two-sleeved sleeve, the sleeve original line of sleeve tight, sleeve width line, arm point of saddle point, elbow line, elbow line, cuff line, body side line, Sodeyama curve , SP is copied, and the guideline is marked on the elbow and cuffs. The side point of the body of the upper garment was lowered by 1.5 cm, but the sleeve width line of the sleeve is 0.5 cm less as a room to raise the arm, and 1 cm lower than the original sleeve.

8.腋点の腕の寸法点を前後とも袖幅線に平行に真横に線を引き、ゆとり分を外に前1.5cm、後ろ2.0cmとって、袖の腋点を印し、その点から袖山の曲線を、袖山で原型より肩パット分に布の厚み分を加えて、原型の袖山曲線を目安に描き、いせ分を入れて身頃の袖ぐりとの合印を印す。腋点以外の3点の合い印は原型の印から移動する。    8). Draw a straight line parallel to the sleeve width line on both sides of the arm point of the saddle point, 1.5cm forward and 2.0cm behind, and mark the sleeve saddle point. Add the thickness of the cloth to the shoulder pad from the original shape, and draw the original Sodeyama curve as a guideline. The three-point mark other than the saddle point moves from the original mark.

9.袖の上衣身頃の腋点は上衣の袖幅線と脇線との交点の脇点から8の腋点の横線に向けて上衣の身頃の腋点から脇点の直線(図11)と同寸を前後ろとも引いて決め、袖下ぐり線を身頃の袖下ぐり線より浅く(ゆとり分)描く。    9. The saddle point of the upper garment of the sleeve is the same size as the straight line from the saddle point of the upper garment to the side line of the upper garment from the side point of the intersection of the sleeve width line of the upper garment and the side line (Fig. 11). Draw both the front and back, and draw the underarm line shallower than the body's underarm line.

10.前後ろとも9の身頃の腋点と袖の腋点の中間点と肘線、袖口に向けて2枚袖のガイドラインを原型のガイドラインに適度なゆとり分を入れて描き、その線を目安に外袖と内袖の切り替え線を描き、袖口線も原型線を目安に描く。    10. Draw a guideline for two sleeves with an appropriate margin in the original guideline toward the middle point between the saddle point of the body and the saddle point of the sleeve, the elbow line, and the cuffs on both the front and back, and use the line as a guide. Draw a switching line between the sleeve and the inner sleeve, and draw the cuff line using the original line as a guide.

以上、本発明にかかる衣服の型紙を手作業で作成する手順について詳細に説明したが、本発明の身頃フィット原型と寸法値を入力することで自動的に作成することのできるプログラムを実行可能なコンピューターなどを用いてもよい。    As described above, the procedure for manually creating the pattern of clothing according to the present invention has been described in detail. However, a program that can be automatically created by inputting the body fit prototype and the dimension value of the present invention can be executed. A computer or the like may be used.

上述したように本発明の装着式原型製作器は、製図に必要で従来把握しにくかった体の各部分の状態が把握できるので、手早く正確なヒップラインより上の身頃フィット原型と袖のタイト原型を製作することができ、各人に対応させるオーダーメイドまたはイージーオーダーの衣服の各人の原型作りと各デザインへの衣服の型紙の作図に最適である。    As described above, the wearable prototype maker of the present invention can grasp the state of each part of the body that is necessary for drawing and was difficult to grasp conventionally, so that the body fit prototype and the tight prototype of the sleeve above the accurate hip line quickly It is ideal for making prototypes of custom-made or easy-to-order clothes for each person and drawing clothes patterns for each design.

また、既製服のパターンにおいても、本発明の装着式原型製作器の原型線はJIS規A体型のサイズによりヒップラインより上の身頃フィット原型の線を表示してある上に身頃と袖の関係が明確なので、衣服の各デザインへの作図が容易である。    In addition, in the pattern of ready-made clothes, the prototype line of the wearable prototype production device of the present invention displays the body fit line above the hip line according to the size of the JIS A body model, and the relationship between the body and the sleeve Is easy to draw on each design of clothing.

また、本発明の装着式原型製作器は、各人台の原型製作や人台の補正に便利であるので、人台を使用する既製服のパターン作りに最適である。    In addition, the wearable prototype maker according to the present invention is convenient for making prototypes for individual pedestals and for correcting pedestals, and is therefore ideal for making ready-made clothing patterns using pedestals.

また、本発明の装着式原型製作器は装着することにより、ヒップラインより上の身頃フィット原型の成り立ちと袖と身頃の関係と袖の原型の成り立ちが容易に解るうえに、これらの原型から衣服のあらゆるデザインへの作図が解り易いので、パタンナー養成に最適である。    In addition, by wearing the wearable prototype maker of the present invention, it is easy to understand the formation of the body fit prototype above the hip line, the relationship between the sleeve and the body, and the formation of the sleeve prototype. Because it is easy to understand the drawings for any design, it is ideal for training patterners.

装着式原型製作器の前右身頃の図面Front right body drawing of wearable prototype maker 装着式原型製作器の後ろ右身頃と腕計測メジャーの図面Drawing of the right body and arm measurement measure behind the wearable prototype maker 装着式原型製作器と腕計測メジャーの使用方法How to use wearable prototype maker and arm measurement measure 袖タイト原型の作図Drawing of sleeve tight prototype ブラウスのデザイン画Blouse design ブラウスの原型ダーツ配分Blouse prototype darts distribution ブラウスの身頃の作図Drawing the blouse body ブラウスの袖の作図Drawing blouse sleeves 上衣のデザイン画Top cover design 上衣の原型ダーツ配分Prototype dart distribution for upper garments 上衣の身頃の作図Drawing the garment body 2枚袖の作図Drawing two sleeves

Claims (5)

薄手で透明の柔軟性のある所定の寸法の板を、前身頃左右2枚、後ろ身頃左右2枚、計4枚用意し、前の右身頃板面に前中心線、ウエストライン、バストライン、衿ぐり線、肩線、袖ぐり線と腋点と袖との合い印、脇線、胸ダーツ線、ウエストダーツ線を入れ、胸ダーツとウエストダーツはダーツ止まりまで切り込みを入れ、前中心線と脇線とウエストダーツのウエスト部に切り込みを入れ、衿ぐりと袖下ぐりに切り込みを入れ、前の左身頃板面は前記右身頃板面の線対称に前記各線を入れ、前記各部に切り込みを入れて、後ろ右身頃板面に後ろ中心線、ヒップライン、ウエストライン、バストライン、衿ぐり線、肩線、袖ぐり線と腋点と袖との合い印、脇線、肩ダーツ線、ウエストダーツ線を入れ、肩ダーツとウエストダーツはダーツ止まりまで切り込みを入れ、後ろ中心線と脇線とウエストダーツのウエスト部に切り込みを入れ、衿ぐりと袖下ぐりに切り込みを入れ、後ろ左身頃板面は前記右身頃板面の線対称に前記各線を入れ、前記各部に切り込みを入れ、各所に着脱自在な着脱具を取り付け、前記後ろ右身頃板面の腋点に腕の太さと長さを計測するためのメジャーを着脱自在な着脱具で取り付けたことを特徴とする装着式原型製作器。A thin and transparent flexible board with a predetermined size is prepared in total, 4 on the front body, 2 on the left and 2 on the back, and the front center line, waist line, bust line, Insert the neckline, shoulder line, armhole line and saddle point and sleeve mark, side line, chest dart line, waist dart line, chest darts and waist darts cut to the dart end, and the front center line Cut the side lines and the waist part of the waist darts, make cuts in the neckline and under the sleeves, put the lines on the front left body plate line symmetrically with the right body plate surface, and make cuts in each part The back center line, hip line, waist line, bust line, neckline, shoulder line, armhole line, saddle point and sleeve mark, side line, shoulder dart line, waist dart Put the line, shoulder darts and waist darts stop darts Make incisions in the back center line, side lines, and waist part of the waist darts, make incisions in the neckline and under the sleeves, and the back left body plate surface is line-symmetric with the right body plate surface. Put a notch in each part, attach detachable attachments at various places, attach a measure for measuring arm thickness and length to the saddle point of the back right body plate surface with detachable attachments Wearable prototype maker characterized by that. 請求項1に記載の装着式原型製作器を用いた身頃原型製作方法であって、予め装着者のバスト回り、ヒップ回り、ウエスト回りにゆとり分を加えたサイズに、装着式原型製作器の各所の着脱自在な着脱具を留め組み立て、装着し、直線のヒップラインを床面に平行に固定して、体に合わせて留め直し調整し、各所に印付けをして、体からはずして平らにして、紙に写してヒップラインより上の身頃の原型を製作することを特徴とする身頃原型製作方法。    A body prototype production method using the wearable prototype production device according to claim 1, wherein a portion of the wearable prototype production device is preliminarily added to the size of the wearer's bust, hip, and waist. Assemble, attach and detach the removable detachable tool, fix the straight hip line parallel to the floor surface, adjust it according to the body, mark it in place, remove it from the body and flatten it A body prototype production method characterized in that a body prototype above the hip line is produced by copying on paper. 請求項1に記載の装着式原型製作器と腕計測メジャーを用いた袖の原型作図方法であって、得られたデータを元に袖山線、袖幅線、肘線、袖口線、肩先、腕の腋点の寸法点、身頃の脇点と脇線を入れ、身頃の袖下ぐり線を写し、腋点を基準(腕の腋点の寸法点)に袖の原型としてのゆとり分を入れ、袖幅を決め、袖山曲線に身頃との合い印を付け、肘ぐせ線、肘ダーツ線、袖の側面ガイドラインを入れて袖の原型を作図することを特徴とする袖の原型作図方法。    A sleeve prototype drawing method using the wearable prototype creator and the arm measurement measure according to claim 1, wherein the Sodeyama line, sleeve width line, elbow line, cuff line, shoulder tip, arm based on the obtained data Dimension points of the saddle point, the side points and side lines of the body, copy the underline of the sleeves of the body, put the space as a prototype of the sleeve on the basis of the saddle point (dimension point of the arm saddle point), A method for drawing a sleeve, characterized by determining the width of the sleeve, marking the sleeve sleeve curve with the body, and drawing the sleeve prototype with the elbow line, elbow dart line, and sleeve side guidelines. 請求項に記載の身頃原型製作方法で得た身頃の原型の各線を元にした衣服の身頃型紙の作図方法であって、衣服のデザインにより胸ダーツと肩ダーツのゆとり分を度数で分配し、デザインに応じてダーツを移動して、バスト回り、ウエスト回り、ヒップ回りにゆとり分を加え、袖ぐりに原型と同じ高さの腋点と袖との合い印を付け、裾線は床面に平行の直線のヒップラインを目安に決めて衣服の身頃の型紙を作図することを特徴とする衣服の身頃型紙の作図方法。A method for drawing a garment body pattern based on each line of the garment prototype obtained by the garment prototype manufacturing method according to claim 2 , wherein the space between the chest darts and the shoulder darts is distributed in frequency according to the clothing design. Move the darts according to the design, add extra space around the bust, waist, and hips, and mark the sleeves with the same height and sleeves as the original, and the hem is on the floor A method for drawing a garment body pattern, wherein a pattern of a garment body body is drawn using a straight hip line parallel to the body as a guide. 請求項に記載の袖のタイト原型作図方法で得た袖の原型の各線を元にした衣服の袖型紙の作図方法であって、衣服のデザインに応じて、袖幅線を衣服の身頃の脇点に対応して決め、原型の腋点(腋点の腕の寸法点)を基準に衣服の袖のゆとり分を入れ、袖幅を決め、袖山曲線を描き、身頃の袖ぐりとの合い印を付け、デザインによりゆとり分を入れた袖下線や切り替え線やダーツ線を入れて作図することを特徴とする衣服の袖型紙の作図方法。A drawing method of a sleeve pattern paper of a garment based on each line of a sleeve prototype obtained by the method of drawing a tight sleeve prototype according to claim 3 , wherein the sleeve width line of the garment body is changed according to the clothing design. Decide according to the side points, add the space of the sleeves of the clothes based on the original saddle point (dimension point of the arm of the saddle point), determine the width of the sleeve, draw the curve of the sleeve, and mark the sleeves on the body A drawing method for garment sleeve paper, characterized in that it is drawn by putting undersleeve lines, switching lines, and dart lines with a certain amount of space.
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CN102613761B (en) * 2012-04-12 2013-11-27 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Pattern making method of suit sleeve
CN102823974A (en) * 2012-08-30 2012-12-19 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Plate-making and cutting method for suit collar
CN104095331A (en) * 2014-06-23 2014-10-15 广东柏堡龙股份有限公司 Method for tailoring fitted blouse body prototype
CN104095331B (en) * 2014-06-23 2015-09-16 广东柏堡龙股份有限公司 Fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method

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