CN104095331B - Fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method - Google Patents
Fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method Download PDFInfo
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- CN104095331B CN104095331B CN201410283862.XA CN201410283862A CN104095331B CN 104095331 B CN104095331 B CN 104095331B CN 201410283862 A CN201410283862 A CN 201410283862A CN 104095331 B CN104095331 B CN 104095331B
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- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 50
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 116
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 210000000038 chest Anatomy 0.000 description 100
- 210000000481 breast Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 210000001364 upper extremity Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 210000002659 acromion Anatomy 0.000 description 2
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Abstract
Fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method designed by the present invention, comprises the following steps: the first, according to measured waist joint length, chest measurement, shoulder breadth, arm rhizosphere and the rear panel ground line of neck circumference determination crock clothing body prototype and the cutting of anter ground line; The second, crock clothing body prototype armhole cutting wires is determined; Three, determine that chest is economized, under described fore flank, point to front lower horizontal line distance value puts the difference of extremely rear lower horizontal line distance value under deducting hind flank is that chest is economized wide; Four, according to determined structure lines carry out cutting can obtain designed by be crock clothing body prototype.This method of cutting out establish armhole and chest economize wide, clothing long economize with chest loose and with the contacting of human body itself, propose adopt arm rhizosphere cutting armhole and adopt latasuture length difference determination chest province province method of cutting out, make fit class crock tailoring technique more concisely, the clothes of more realistic human figure and cutting are more fit.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to tailoring technical field, refer to a kind of fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method particularly.
Background technology
Jacket prototype refers to the basic crop frame in plane cutting before various style change application.Concrete clothes can do the adjustment of the factors such as clothing form, fabric, local custom according to prototype foundation.Jacket prototype comprises clothing body and sleeve two essential parts, and the cutting of upper clothes body prototype generally comprises neckline, chest measurement, armhole and province and stitches four parts.At present, fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting needs multiple measurement and draws link, respectively: clothing length, chest measurement, armhole depth, across back, chest breadth, neck is loose, neck is dark, neckline camber line, dropped shoulder, armhole curve, dart, measurement and drafting link, relate to data volume many, operate comparatively loaded down with trivial details.The cutting of existing crock clothing body prototype armhole generally adopt the bust size of measurement calculate armhole depth and armhole loose, sleeve adopt measure clothing body armhole arc length degree carry out the cutting of sleeve mountain.But the method sport technique segment is many, on cutting figure, measure collection as its armhole length needs cutting figure to draw rear passing through, its lacks armhole scale Design etc., is unfavorable for crop configuration more suitable armhole length and reverse cutting sleeve.Before the present invention, the chest of fit class crock clothing body prototype is economized and loosely normally to be calculated based on chest measurement, and chest economizes wide=chest measurement/4-2.5cm, namely the large then chest of chest measurement is economized just wide.But in practice, human body chest measurement identical but because of the udder size of individuality different with form, the chest of clothing body can be caused to economize and also should suitably change, the such as human body of identical chest measurement, the less and breast of some waistlines is comparatively large, have be but waistline comparatively greatly and breast is less.Therefore, existing fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method lacks chest and economizes loose with armhole and the contacting, according to the existing problem causing clothing body not fit according to the wide meeting of chest measurement determination chest province of human body itself.
Summary of the invention
Object of the present invention will provide a kind of fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method exactly, reduces tailoring link, set up armhole and chest economize wide, clothing grow and chest economize loose and with the contacting of organization of human body itself, the clothes of institute's cutting are more fit.
For achieving the above object, the crock clothing body prototype cutting method designed by the present invention, comprises the following steps successively:
The first, according to waist joint length, chest measurement, shoulder breadth, arm rhizosphere and the rear panel ground line of neck circumference determination crock clothing body prototype measured and the cutting of anter ground line, wherein,
Described rear panel ground line comprises: rear upper horizontal line, rear lower horizontal line, CB, the large line of rear chest measurement, rear neck nest line, back porch line, rear shoulder breadth line and back porch end points; Described anter ground line comprises: front upper horizontal line, front lower horizontal line, front center line, the large line of front chest measurement, front neck nest line, crop line, front shoulder breadth line and crop end points;
The second, determine crock clothing body prototype armhole cutting wires, its method is:
1) point under hind flank is done: later point of shoulder point is that camber line is drawn in the center of circle, arc radius be before and after (arm rhizosphere ﹢ armhole loose measure)/2 ﹢ armhole arc length poor/2 ﹣ back armhole arc strings are poor, drawn camber line and the large line intersection point of rear chest measurement are point under hind flank, wherein, armhole loose measure is 1.5 ~ 2.5cm, front and back armhole arc length difference is 1cm, and back armhole arc string difference is 1.32 ~ 1.55cm;
2) back armhole string is done: under back porch end points and hind flank, do straight line between point obtain back armhole string;
3) back armhole arc is done: put under back porch end points to hind flank and draw fixed length curve with smoother lines and obtain back armhole arc, back armhole arc and back porch line intersection close to right angle, the length of back armhole arc be before and after (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹢ armhole arc length poor/2;
4) point under fore flank is done: former point of shoulder point is that camber line is drawn in the center of circle, arc radius is that before and after (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-, before armhole arc length difference/2-, armhole arc string is poor, the intersection point of drawn camber line and the large line of front chest measurement is point under fore flank, wherein, front armhole arc string difference is 3.92 ~ 4.15cm;
5) do front armhole string: under crop end points and fore flank point between do straight line obtain before armhole string;
6) front armhole arc is done: put under crop end points to fore flank and obtain front armhole arc with smoother stick figure fixed length curve, front armhole arc and crop line intersection close to right angle, the length of front armhole arc be before and after (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹣ armhole arc length poor/2;
Three, determine that chest is economized, under described fore flank, point to front lower horizontal line distance value puts the difference of extremely rear lower horizontal line distance value under deducting hind flank is that chest is economized wide;
Four, carry out cutting according to determined structure lines and can obtain designed fit class crock clothing body prototype.
Preferably, the determining step of described rear panel ground line is:
1) SNP SIDE NECK POINT after determining on cloth, SNP SIDE NECK POINT does straight line as rear upper horizontal line later;
2) do below rear upper horizontal line after parallel lines obtain and descend horizontal line, the vertical range between rear lower horizontal line and rear upper horizontal line is that measured low back saves length;
3) along rear upper horizontal line, with rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT distance for the wide place of rear neck do after the vertical line of upper horizontal line obtain CB, rear neck is wide=((neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29+2.1cm)/2, and wherein neck circumference loose measure is 1.0 ~ 2.0cm;
4) the large line of chest measurement after the parallel lines doing CB relative to the opposite side of CB at rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT obtain, vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure-front and back the chest measurement of the large line of rear chest measurement and CB is poor/and 2, wherein, chest measurement loose measure is 0.4 ~ 0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement difference is 0.3 ~ 0.8cm;
5) vertical line doing rear upper horizontal line from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT obtains the wide line of rear neck;
6) obtain the dark line of rear neck from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT lower horizontal line direction distance after the wide alignment of rear neck for the rear neck parallel lines that rear upper horizontal line is done at value place deeply, wherein, it is 1.8 ~ 2.2cm that rear neck is worth deeply;
7) dark line and CB intersection point is led to be collare central point afterwards;
8) do between collare central point and rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT after smooth curve obtains and lead nest line;
9) from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT, chest measurement large line direction is done with rear upper horizontal line is backward that the oblique line at 12 ~ 16 ° of angles of depression obtains back porch line;
10) shoulder breadth line after leading the parallel lines of wide line to obtain after the large line of the chest measurement backward side of the wide line of rear neck is done, after the distance=shoulder breadth/2+ between rear shoulder breadth line and CB, shoulder seam stitches contracting amount, and wherein, shoulder seam seam contracting amount is 0.3 ~ 0.5cm;
11) intersection point of shoulder breadth line and back porch line is back porch end points afterwards.
Further preferably, the determining step of described anter ground line is:
1) SNP SIDE NECK POINT before determining on cloth, before crossing, SNP SIDE NECK POINT does straight line as front upper horizontal line;
2) below front upper horizontal line, do parallel lines and obtain front lower horizontal line, the distance between front lower horizontal line and front upper horizontal line is that measured Attacking Midfielder saves length;
3) along front upper horizontal line, with front SNP SIDE NECK POINT distance for rear neck reductions go to 0.15cm place to do before the vertical line of upper horizontal line obtain before center line;
4) before front SNP SIDE NECK POINT does relative to the opposite side of front center line the parallel lines of center line obtain before the large line of chest measurement, distance=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure+front and back the chest measurement of the large line of front chest measurement and front center line is poor/and 2, wherein, chest measurement loose measure is 0.4 ~ 0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement difference is 0.3 ~ 0.8cm;
5) vertical line doing front upper horizontal line from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT obtains the wide line of front neck;
6) be that the parallel lines that front upper horizontal line is done at FRONT NECK DROP value place obtain FRONT NECK DROP line from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT along distance under the wide alignment of front neck, described FRONT NECK DROP value is=(neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29-1.8cm-after the dark value of neck,
7) intersection point of FRONT NECK DROP line and front center line is foreneck central point;
8) between foreneck central point and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT, do curve and obtain front neck nest line;
9) from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT, chest measurement large line direction is done with front upper horizontal line is forward that the oblique line at 20 ~ 24 ° of angles of depression obtains crop line;
10) on crop line, before distance, SNP SIDE NECK POINT is got is some crop end points, and crop end points and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT distance=rear shoulder seam length-rear shoulder seam stitch contracting amount, and described rear shoulder seam is long for rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT is to the distance of back porch end points;
11) cross the parallel lines that crop end points makes the wide line of front neck and obtain front shoulder breadth line.
Advantageous Effects of the present invention is: designed fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method, adopt arm rhizosphere cutting armhole and adopt latasuture length difference determination chest province province method of cutting out, decrease the measurement of armhole depth, across back and dart and draw link, improve the operating efficiency of tailoring; And the present invention is based on arm rhizosphere cutting armhole, the length of front and back armhole arc sets before drafting clothing body armhole, and doing sleeve mountain need not measure, and cutting process is more easy; Meanwhile, determine that chest is economized wide according to latasuture length difference, increase chest and economize and the contacting of armhole and this body structure of human body, make the more fit and saving cloth of the clothes of simpler and clearer, the realistic human figure of fit class crock tailoring technique and institute's cutting.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is fit class crock clothing body prototype rear panel cutting figure.
Fig. 2 is fit class crock clothing body prototype anter cutting figure.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments, crock clothing body prototype cutting method of the present invention is described in further detail.
To human body dimension measurement in crock clothing body prototype cutting method of the present invention, measuring method is as follows:
Chest measurement: natural standing position, the chest level through theligonum encloses length, with measurements such as tape measures.
Neck circumference: natural standing position, upper limbs naturally droops.At neck root, enclose length, with measurements such as tape measures from foreneck central point, left SNP SIDE NECK POINT (shoulder neck point), collare central point (C7 point), right SNP SIDE NECK POINT (shoulder neck point) to foreneck central point.
Shoulder breadth: natural standing position, upper limbs naturally droops, and measures horizontal arc length between right and left shoulders peak dot, with measurements such as tape measures at back.
Low back joint is long: natural standing position, from SNP SIDE NECK POINT (shoulder neck point) suitable shoulder blade directly down to the length of curve of waist border line, with measurements such as tape measures.
Attacking Midfielder saves length: natural standing position, from SNP SIDE NECK POINT (shoulder neck point) through breastheight point (newborn point) to waist border line length of curve, with measurements such as tape measures.
Arm rhizosphere: natural standing position, upper limbs naturally droops, and vertically encloses length, with measurements such as tape measures at arm root from acromion point through underarm point to acromion point.
Embodiment 1
Record the chest measurement of certain female body, collar, shoulder breadth, Attacking Midfielder save long, low back joint is long and arm rhizosphere size in table 1.
Table 1:
| Chest measurement | Neck circumference | Shoulder breadth | Low back joint is long | Attacking Midfielder saves length | Arm rhizosphere |
| 76 | 34 | 35 | 38 | 39 | 34.5 |
This crock clothing body prototype cutting method, comprises the following steps successively:
The first, according to waist joint length, chest measurement, shoulder breadth, arm rhizosphere and the rear panel ground line of neck circumference determination crock clothing body prototype measured and the cutting of anter ground line, wherein,
Rear panel ground line comprises: rear upper horizontal line 1, rear lower horizontal line 2, CB 3, the large line of rear chest measurement 4, rear neck nest line 9, back porch line 10, rear shoulder breadth line 11 and back porch end points 12; Concrete defining method is:
1) do rear upper horizontal line 1: SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 after determining on cloth, SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 does straight line as rear upper horizontal line 1 later;
2) rear lower horizontal line 2 is done: do below rear upper horizontal line 1 after parallel lines obtain and descend horizontal line 2, the vertical range between rear lower horizontal line 2 and rear upper horizontal line 1 is that measured low back saves long 38cm;
3) CB 3 is done: along rear upper horizontal line 1, obtain CB 3 with rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 apart from the vertical line doing rear upper horizontal line 1 for the wide place of rear neck, rear neck is wide=((neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29+2.1cm)/2=((34+1.5)/3.29+2.1)/2=6.5cm, and wherein neck circumference loose measure is 1.5cm;
4) the large line of rear chest measurement 4 is made: the large line 4 of chest measurement after the parallel lines doing CB 3 relative to the opposite side of CB 3 at rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtain, vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure-front and back chest measurement difference/the 2=76/2/2+0.7-0.5/2=19.45cm of the large line 4 of rear chest measurement and CB 3, wherein chest measurement loose measure is 0.7cm, and chest measurement difference in front and back is 0.5cm;
5) the wide line of rear neck 5 is made: the vertical line doing rear upper horizontal line 1 from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtains the wide line 5 of rear neck;
6) make the dark line 7 of rear neck: after adopting, neck is worth 2.2cm deeply, the parallel lines descending the direction of horizontal line 2 distance to do rear upper horizontal line 1 for 2.2cm place backward along the wide line of rear neck 5 from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtain the dark line 7 of rear neck;
7) collare central point 8 is done: the dark line 7 of rear neck is collare central point 8 with CB 3 intersection point;
8) rear neck nest line 9 is made: do between collare central point 8 and rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 after smooth curve obtains and lead nest line 9;
9) back porch line 10 is made: do obtaining back porch line 10 with the oblique line of rear upper horizontal line 1 in 15 ° of angles of depression from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6;
10) rear shoulder breadth line 11 is made: shoulder breadth line 11 after leading the parallel lines of wide line 5 to obtain after the large line 4 of the chest measurement backward side of the wide line of rear neck 5 is done, after vertical range=shoulder breadth/2+ between rear shoulder breadth line 11 and CB 3, shoulder seam stitches contracting amount=35/2+0.3=17.8cm, and wherein, shoulder seam seam contracting amount is 0.3cm;
11) back porch end points 12 is done: rear shoulder breadth line 11 is back porch end points 12 with the intersection point of back porch line 10;
12) under connecting back porch end points 12 and hind flank, point 14 makes back armhole arc 15.
Anter ground line comprises: front upper horizontal line 16, front lower horizontal line 17, front center line 18, the large line of front chest measurement 19, front neck nest line 24, crop line 25, front shoulder breadth line 26 and crop end points 27;
Concrete defining method is:
1) do front upper horizontal line 16: SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 before determining on cloth, before crossing, SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 does straight line as front upper horizontal line 16;
2) do front lower horizontal line 17: below front upper horizontal line 16, do parallel lines obtain front lower horizontal line 17, the vertical range between front lower horizontal line 17 and front upper horizontal line 16 is that measured Attacking Midfielder saves long 39cm;
3) front center line 18 is done: along front upper horizontal line 16, obtain front center line 18 with front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 apart from the vertical line going to 0.15cm place to do front upper horizontal line 16 for rear neck reductions; This distance is 6.5-0.15=6.35cm;
4) make the large line of front chest measurement 19: before front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 does relative to the opposite side of front center line 18 parallel lines of center line 18 obtain before the large line 19 of chest measurement, vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure+front and back chest measurement difference/the 2=76/2/2+0.7+0.5/2=19.95cm of the large line of front chest measurement 19 and front center line 18, wherein chest measurement loose measure is 0.7cm, and chest measurement difference in front and back is 0.5cm;
5) the wide line of front neck 20 is made: the vertical line doing front upper horizontal line 16 from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 obtains the wide line 20 of front neck;
6) FRONT NECK DROP line 22 is made: adopt FRONT NECK DROP value for the dark value of neck after=(neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29-1.8cm-, obtain FRONT NECK DROP line 22 apart from the parallel lines doing front upper horizontal line 16 for FRONT NECK DROP value place from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 downwards along the wide line 20 of front neck, wherein neck circumference loose measure is 1.5cm; FRONT NECK DROP value herein=(34+1.5)/3.29-1.8cm-2.2cm=6.79cm;
7) foreneck central point 23 is done: FRONT NECK DROP line 22 is foreneck central point 23 with the intersection point of front center line 18;
8) front neck nest line 24 is made: between foreneck central point 23 and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21, do curve obtain front neck nest line 24;
9) crop line 25 is obtained from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 oblique line that it is 20 ~ 24 ° of angles of depression that chest measurement large line 19 direction is done with front upper horizontal line 16 forward;
10) crop end points 27 is defined as along the relatively front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 of crop line 25 apart from for front shoulder seam strong point, wherein: long=rear shoulder seam of front shoulder seam long-rear shoulder seam seam contracting amount=(11.8-0.3=11.5cm, the long distance for rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 to back porch end points 12 of rear shoulder seam, by measuring to obtain 11.8cm;
11) parallel lines that crop end points 27 makes the wide line of front neck 20 excessively obtain front shoulder breadth line 26;
The second, determine crock clothing body prototype armhole cutting wires, its method is:
1) 14 are put under doing hind flank: later point of shoulder point 12 is that camber line is drawn in the center of circle, before and after arc radius=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2+ armhole arc length difference/2-back armhole arc string poor=(34.5+2)/2+0.5-1.32=17.43cm, wherein: armhole loose measure is 2cm, front and back armhole arc length difference is 1cm, back armhole arc string difference is 1.32cm, and drawn camber line and rear chest measurement large line 4 intersection point are put 14 under hind flank;
2) back armhole string 13 is done: do straight line put 14 under back porch end points 12 and hind flank between and obtain back armhole string 13;
3) back armhole arc 15 is done: point 14 draws fixed length curve with smoother lines and obtains back armhole arc 15 under back porch end points 12 to hind flank, back armhole arc 15 and back porch line 10 intersection close to right angle, armhole arc length difference/2=(34.5 ﹢ 2)/2 ﹢ 0.5=18.75cm before and after length=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹢ of back armhole arc 15;
4) 29 are put under doing fore flank: former point of shoulder point 27 is that camber line is drawn in the center of circle, before and after arc radius=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-before armhole arc length difference/2-armhole arc string poor=(34.5+2)/2-0.5-3.92=13.83cm, the intersection point of drawn camber line and the large line 19 of front chest measurement is put 29 under fore flank, wherein: front armhole arc string difference is 3.92cm;
5) do front armhole string 28: put under crop end points 27 and fore flank to do between 29 straight line obtain before armhole string 28;
6) front armhole arc 30 is done: under crop end points 27 to fore flank, put 29 obtain front armhole arc 30 with smoother stick figure fixed length curve, front armhole arc 30 and crop line 25 intersection close to right angle, armhole arc length difference/2=(34.5 ﹢ 2)/2-0.5=17.75cm before and after length=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-of front armhole arc 30;
Three, determine that chest is economized, measuring point 29 to front lower horizontal line 17 distance value 21.3cm under fore flank, to deduct point 14 under hind flank to the difference 17.4cm of rear lower horizontal line 2 distance value be that chest economizes wide 3.9cm.
Four, carry out cutting according to determined structure lines, fit crock clothing body prototype can be obtained.
Embodiment 2
Record the chest measurement of certain female body, collar, shoulder breadth, Attacking Midfielder save long, low back joint is long and arm rhizosphere size in table 1.
Table 1:
| Chest measurement | Neck circumference | Shoulder breadth | Low back joint is long | Attacking Midfielder saves length | Arm rhizosphere |
| 84 | 35.5 | 37 | 40 | 41.8 | 38 |
This crock clothing body prototype cutting method, comprises the following steps successively:
The first, according to waist joint length, chest measurement, shoulder breadth, arm rhizosphere and the rear panel ground line of neck circumference determination crock clothing body prototype measured and the cutting of anter ground line, wherein,
Rear panel ground line comprises: rear upper horizontal line 1, rear lower horizontal line 2, CB 3, the large line of rear chest measurement 4, rear neck nest line 9, back porch line 10, rear shoulder breadth line 11 and back porch end points 12; Concrete defining method is:
1) do rear upper horizontal line 1: SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 after determining on cloth, SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 does straight line as rear upper horizontal line 1 later;
2) rear lower horizontal line 2 is done: do below rear upper horizontal line 1 after parallel lines obtain and descend horizontal line 2, the vertical range between rear lower horizontal line 2 and rear upper horizontal line 1 is that measured low back saves long 40cm;
3) CB 3 is done: along rear upper horizontal line 1, obtain CB 3 with rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 apart from the vertical line doing rear upper horizontal line 1 for the wide place of rear neck, rear neck is wide=((neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29+2.1cm)/2=((35.5+2.0)/3.29+2.1cm)/2=6.74cm, and wherein neck circumference loose measure is 2.0cm;
4) the large line of rear chest measurement 4 is made: the large line 4 of chest measurement after the parallel lines doing CB 3 relative to the opposite side of CB 3 at rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtain, vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure-front and back chest measurement difference/the 2=84/2/2+0.5-0.6/2=21.2cm of the large line 4 of rear chest measurement and CB 3, wherein chest measurement loose measure is 0.5cm, and chest measurement difference in front and back is 0.6cm;
5) the wide line of rear neck 5 is made: the vertical line doing rear upper horizontal line 1 from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtains the wide line 5 of rear neck;
6) make the dark line 7 of rear neck: after adopting, neck is worth 2.0cm deeply, the parallel lines descending the direction of horizontal line 2 distance to do rear upper horizontal line 1 for 2.0cm place backward along the wide line of rear neck 5 from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtain the dark line 7 of rear neck;
7) collare central point 8 is done: the dark line 7 of rear neck is collare central point 8 with CB 3 intersection point;
8) rear neck nest line 9 is made: do between collare central point 8 and rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 after smooth curve obtains and lead nest line 9;
9) back porch line 10 is made: do obtaining back porch line 10 with the oblique line of rear upper horizontal line 1 in 14 ° of angles of depression from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6;
10) rear shoulder breadth line 11 is made: shoulder breadth line 11 after chest measurement large line 4 side leads the parallel lines of wide line 5 to obtain after doing backward at the wide line of rear neck 5, after vertical range=shoulder breadth/2+ between rear shoulder breadth line 11 and CB 3, shoulder seam stitches contracting amount=37/2+0.4=18.9cm, and wherein, shoulder seam seam contracting amount is 0.4cm;
11) back porch end points 12 is done: rear shoulder breadth line 11 is back porch end points 12 with the intersection point of back porch line 10;
12) under connecting back porch end points 12 and hind flank, point 14 makes back armhole arc 15.
Anter ground line comprises: front upper horizontal line 16, front lower horizontal line 17, front center line 18, the large line of front chest measurement 19, front neck nest line 24, crop line 25, front shoulder breadth line 26 and crop end points 27;
Concrete defining method is:
1) do front upper horizontal line 16: SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 before determining on cloth, before crossing, SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 does straight line as front upper horizontal line 16;
2) do front lower horizontal line 17: below front upper horizontal line 16, do parallel lines obtain front lower horizontal line 17, the vertical range between front lower horizontal line 17 and front upper horizontal line 16 is that measured Attacking Midfielder saves long 41.8cm;
3) front center line 18 is done: along front upper horizontal line 16, obtain front center line 18 with front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 apart from the vertical line going to 0.15cm place to do front upper horizontal line 16 for rear neck reductions; This distance is 6.74 ﹣ 0.15=6.59cm;
4) make the large line of front chest measurement 19: before front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 does relative to the opposite side of front center line 18 parallel lines of center line 18 obtain before the large line 19 of chest measurement, vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure+front and back chest measurement difference/the 2=84/2/2+0.5+0.6/2=21.8cm of the large line of front chest measurement 19 and front center line 18, wherein chest measurement loose measure is 0.5cm, and chest measurement difference in front and back is 0.6cm;
5) the wide line of front neck 20 is made: the vertical line doing front upper horizontal line 16 from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 obtains the wide line 20 of front neck;
6) FRONT NECK DROP line 22 is made: adopt FRONT NECK DROP value for the dark value of neck after=(neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29-1.8cm-, obtain FRONT NECK DROP line 22 apart from the parallel lines doing front upper horizontal line 16 for FRONT NECK DROP value place from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 downwards along the wide line 20 of front neck, wherein neck circumference loose measure is 2.0cm; FRONT NECK DROP value herein=(35.5+2.0)/3.29-1.8cm-2.0cm=7.59cm;
7) foreneck central point 23 is done: FRONT NECK DROP line 22 is foreneck central point 23 with the intersection point of front center line 18;
8) front neck nest line 24 is made: between foreneck central point 23 and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21, do curve obtain front neck nest line 24;
9) crop line 25 is made: obtain crop line 25 from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 oblique line that it is 20 ~ 24 ° of angles of depression that chest measurement large line 19 direction is done with front upper horizontal line 16 forward;
10) crop end points 27 is done: be defined as crop end points 27 along the relatively front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 of crop line 25 apart from for front shoulder seam strong point, wherein: shoulder seam seam contracting 0.4=12.3cm after the long 12.7-of front shoulder seam length=rear shoulder seam, described rear shoulder seam seam contracting amount is 0.4cm, the long distance for rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 to back porch end points 12 of rear shoulder seam, is derived as 12.7cm by measuring;
11) front shoulder breadth line 26 is made: the parallel lines that crop end points 27 makes the wide line of front neck 20 excessively obtain front shoulder breadth line 26;
The second, determine crock clothing body prototype armhole cutting wires, its method is:
1) 14 are put under doing hind flank: later point of shoulder point 12 is that camber line is drawn in the center of circle, before and after arc radius=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2+ armhole arc length difference/2-back armhole arc string poor=(38+2.2)/2+0.5-1.5=19.1cm, wherein: armhole loose measure is 2.2cm, front and back armhole arc length difference is 1cm, back armhole arc string difference is 1.5cm, and drawn camber line and rear chest measurement large line 4 intersection point are put 14 under hind flank;
2) back armhole string 13 is done: do straight line put 14 under back porch end points 12 and hind flank between and obtain back armhole string 13;
3) back armhole arc 15 is done: point 14 draws fixed length curve with smoother lines and obtains back armhole arc 15 under back porch end points 12 to hind flank, back armhole arc 15 and back porch line 10 intersection close to right angle, armhole arc length difference/2=(38 ﹢ 2.2)/2 ﹢ 0.5=20.6cm before and after length=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹢ of back armhole arc 15;
4) 29 are put under doing fore flank: former point of shoulder point 27 is that camber line is drawn in the center of circle, before and after arc radius=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-before armhole arc length difference/2-armhole arc string poor=(38+2.0)/2-0.5-3.92=15.58cm, the intersection point of drawn camber line and the large line 19 of front chest measurement is put 29 under fore flank, wherein: front armhole arc string difference is 3.92cm;
5) do front armhole string 28: put under crop end points 27 and fore flank to do between 29 straight line obtain before armhole string 28;
6) front armhole arc 30 is done: under crop end points 27 to fore flank, put 29 obtain front armhole arc 30 with smoother stick figure fixed length curve, front armhole arc 30 and crop line 25 intersection close to right angle, armhole arc length difference/2=(38 ﹢ 2.0)/2-0.5=19.55cm before and after length=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-of front armhole arc 30;
Three, determine that chest is economized, under measurement fore flank, point 29 to front lower horizontal line 17 distance value 22.2cm puts the difference of 14 to rear lower horizontal line 2 distance value 17.5cm under deducting hind flank is that chest economizes wide i.e. 4.7cm.
Four, carry out cutting according to determined structure lines, fit crock clothing body prototype can be obtained.
Claims (3)
1. a fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method, is characterized in that: it comprises the following steps successively:
The first, according to waist joint length, chest measurement, shoulder breadth, arm rhizosphere and the rear panel ground line of neck circumference determination crock clothing body prototype measured and the cutting of anter ground line, wherein,
Described rear panel ground line comprises: rear upper horizontal line (1), rear lower horizontal line (2), CB (3), the large line of rear chest measurement (4), rear neck nest line (9), back porch line (10), rear shoulder breadth line (11) and back porch end points (12);
Described anter ground line comprises: front upper horizontal line (16), front lower horizontal line (17), front center line (18), the large line of front chest measurement (19), front neck nest line (24), crop line (25), front shoulder breadth line (26) and crop end points (27);
The second, determine crock clothing body prototype armhole cutting wires, its method is:
1) point of shoulder point (12) is center of circle picture camber line later, arc radius be before and after (arm rhizosphere ﹢ armhole loose measure)/2 ﹢ armhole arc length poor/2 ﹣ back armhole arc strings are poor, drawn camber line and the large line of rear chest measurement (4) intersection point are point (14) under hind flank, wherein, armhole loose measure is 1.5 ~ 2.5cm, and armhole arc length difference in front and back is 1cm; Back armhole arc string difference is 1.32 ~ 1.55cm;
2) under back porch end points (12) and hind flank, between point (14), do straight line and obtain back armhole string (13);
3) under back porch end points (12) to hind flank, point (14) draws fixed length curve with smoother lines and obtains back armhole arc (15), back armhole arc (15) and back porch line (10) intersection close to right angle, the length of back armhole arc (15) be before and after (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹢ armhole arc length poor/2;
4) point of shoulder point (27) is center of circle picture camber line in the past, arc radius is that before and after (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-, before armhole arc length difference/2-, armhole arc string is poor, the intersection point of drawn camber line and the large line of front chest measurement (19) is point (29) under fore flank, wherein, front armhole arc string difference is 3.92 ~ 4.15cm;
5) under crop end points (27) and fore flank, between point (29), do straight line and obtain front armhole string (28);
6) under crop end points (27) to fore flank, the smoother stick figure fixed length curve of point (29) obtains front armhole arc (30), front armhole arc (30) and crop line (25) intersection close to right angle, front armhole arc (30) length be before and after (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹣ armhole arc length poor/2;
Three, determine that chest is economized, under described fore flank, point (29) to front lower horizontal line (17) distance value deducts point (14) under hind flank to the difference of rear lower horizontal line (2) distance value is that chest is economized wide;
Four, cutting is carried out according to determined structure lines.
2. fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the determining step of described rear panel ground line is:
1) SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) after determining on cloth, SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) does straight line as rear upper horizontal line (1) later;
2) do parallel lines in rear upper horizontal line (1) below and obtain rear lower horizontal line (2), the vertical range between rear lower horizontal line (2) and rear upper horizontal line (1) is that measured low back saves length;
3) along rear upper horizontal line (1), obtain CB (3) at the vertical line doing rear upper horizontal line (1) for the wide place of rear neck with rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) distance, rear neck is wide=((neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29+2.1cm)/2, and wherein neck circumference loose measure is 1.0 ~ 2.0cm;
4) parallel lines doing CB (3) at rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) relative to the opposite side of CB (3) obtain the large line of rear chest measurement (4), the distance of the large line of rear chest measurement (4) and CB (3) be half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure-front and back chest measurement poor/2, wherein, chest measurement loose measure is 0.4 ~ 0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement difference is 0.3 ~ 0.8cm;
5) vertical line doing rear upper horizontal line (1) from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) obtains the wide line of rear neck (5);
6) horizontal line (2) direction distance is descended to obtain the dark line of rear neck (7) for the rear neck parallel lines that rear upper horizontal line (1) is done at value place deeply from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) backward along the wide line of rear neck (5), wherein, rear neck is worth deeply is 1.8 ~ 2.2cm;
7) dark line (7) and CB (3) intersection point is led to be collare central point (8) afterwards;
8) between collare central point (8) and rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6), do smooth curve and obtain rear neck nest line (9);
9) backward from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) do and obtain back porch line (10) with the oblique line of rear upper horizontal line (1) in 12 ~ 16 ° of angles of depression in the large line of chest measurement (4) direction;
10) parallel lines making the wide line of rear neck (5) in the large line of chest measurement backward (4) side of the wide line of rear neck (5) obtain rear shoulder breadth line (11), distance between rear shoulder breadth line (11) and CB (3) is that after shoulder breadth/2+, shoulder seam stitches contracting amount, and wherein, shoulder seam seam contracting amount is 0.3 ~ 0.5cm;
11) shoulder breadth line (11) is back porch end points (12) with the intersection point of back porch line (10) afterwards.
3. fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method according to claim 2, is characterized in that: the determining step of described anter ground line is:
1) SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) before determining on cloth, before crossing, SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) does straight line as front upper horizontal line (16);
2) do parallel lines in front upper horizontal line (16) below and obtain front lower horizontal line (17), the vertical range between front lower horizontal line (17) and front upper horizontal line (16) is that measured Attacking Midfielder saves length;
3) along front upper horizontal line (16), obtain front center line (18) at the vertical line going to 0.15cm place to do front upper horizontal line (16) for rear neck reductions with front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) distance;
4) parallel lines doing front center line (18) at front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) relative to the opposite side of front center line (18) obtain the large line of front chest measurement (19), the distance of the large line of front chest measurement (19) and front center line (18) be half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure+front and back chest measurement poor/2, wherein, chest measurement loose measure is 0.4 ~ 0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement difference is 0.3 ~ 0.8cm;
5) vertical line doing front upper horizontal line (16) from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) obtains the wide line of front neck (20);
6) FRONT NECK DROP line (22) is obtained apart from the parallel lines doing front upper horizontal line (16) for FRONT NECK DROP value place from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) downwards along the wide line of front neck (20), wherein, the dark value of neck after FRONT NECK DROP value=(neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29-1.8cm-;
7) FRONT NECK DROP line (22) is foreneck central point (23) with the intersection point of front center line (18);
8) between foreneck central point (23) and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21), do curve and obtain front neck nest line (24);
9) forward from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) do and obtain crop line (25) with the oblique line of front upper horizontal line (16) in 20 ~ 24 ° of angles of depression in the large line of chest measurement (19) direction;
10) before crop line (25) upper distance, SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) is got is some crop end points (27), crop end points (27) and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) distance=rear shoulder seam length-rear shoulder seam stitch contracting amount, and described rear shoulder seam is long for rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) is to the distance of back porch end points (12);
11) cross the parallel lines that crop end points (27) makes the wide line of front neck (20) and obtain front shoulder breadth line (26).
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| CN112545090B (en) * | 2020-11-30 | 2022-05-17 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Method for making plate of women's jacket |
| CN112741379B (en) * | 2020-12-31 | 2022-04-22 | 浙江乔治白服饰股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing suit of shoulder peak and chest height area flat suit |
| CN113425024B (en) * | 2021-06-30 | 2022-06-03 | 陈观众 | Method for making plate of women's jacket by using human body as prototype |
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| CN1213518A (en) * | 1997-10-07 | 1999-04-14 | 史秀芹 | Method for cutting out jacket |
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| KR100347844B1 (en) * | 1999-07-01 | 2002-08-07 | 허동진 | Method for preventing twist of shoulder in ready-made clothes |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1097964A (en) * | 1994-04-27 | 1995-02-01 | 路红 | Reference cutting-out method |
| CN1213518A (en) * | 1997-10-07 | 1999-04-14 | 史秀芹 | Method for cutting out jacket |
| CN1258466A (en) * | 1998-12-28 | 2000-07-05 | 沙卫宏 | New tailoring method being easy to learn and apply |
| JP3740684B2 (en) * | 2004-01-29 | 2006-02-01 | 雅子 山▲崎▼ | Wearable prototype maker and drawing method for clothing pattern |
| CN202396523U (en) * | 2011-11-29 | 2012-08-29 | 上海工程技术大学 | Prototype pattern template of high-elastic knitting skintight woman dress |
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