CN103181644A - Jacket prototype collar tailoring method - Google Patents
Jacket prototype collar tailoring method Download PDFInfo
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- CN103181644A CN103181644A CN2013101235940A CN201310123594A CN103181644A CN 103181644 A CN103181644 A CN 103181644A CN 2013101235940 A CN2013101235940 A CN 2013101235940A CN 201310123594 A CN201310123594 A CN 201310123594A CN 103181644 A CN103181644 A CN 103181644A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a jacket prototype collar tailoring method which comprises the following steps of: determining a jacket front part base line and a rear part base line according to the measured back length and chest circumference; determining the collar width and collar depth of the jacket collar according to the neck width of human body; and determining the neck arc line according to the collar width and collar depth, wherein if the neck width of human body is linear neck width, the method for determining the front collar width and the rear collar width is as follows: the front collar width=(linear neck width+1.0cm+tolerance)/2, and the rear collar width=(linear neck width+2.0cm+tolerance)/2; and if the neck width of human body is curve neck width, the method for determining the front collar width and the rear collar width is as follows: the front collar width=(curve neck width-1.0cm+tolerance)/2, and the rear collar width=(curve neck width+1.0cm+tolerance)/2. Since the collar width and collar depth of the jacket collar are determined by use of the neck width of human body, the jacket collar can be accurately matched with the shape of the neck root of human body, and the material is saved.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the tailoring technical field, refer to a kind of upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out particularly.
Background technology
The upper garment neckline constitutes with neckline deeply by neckline is loose.Wherein, neckline is wide comprises that preceding neckline is wide and back neck is wide, neckline comprises that deeply preceding neckline is dark and back neck is dark.Upper garment neckline camber line need be designed to the structure of coincideing substantially with human body neck root form, cut out the upper garment neckline that meets the organization of human body feature, factors such as the thickness of necessary consideration neck, shape prevent neck and are stretching the compressing that is subjected to collar under the active states such as song, revolution.
At present, the loose definite method of the neckline of domestic and international common upper garment prototype neckline has two kinds: a kind of method is based on the human body chest measurement, and to calculate neckline loose, and the wide computational methods of its preceding neckline are chest measurement/24+3.4cm, and the wide computational methods of back neck are chest measurement/24+3.6cm; Another kind method is based on the human body neck circumference, and to calculate neckline wide, and the wide computational methods of its preceding neckline are neck circumference/5-0.7cm, and the wide computational methods of back neck are neck circumference/5-0.2cm.But in the clothing making process of reality, have following several situations: 1, the human body chest measurement is little, but its neck circumference, neck breadth are bigger than normal; 2, the human body chest measurement is big, but its neck circumference, neck breadth are less than normal; Even the people that 3 neck circumferences are identical exists also that neck is flat partially, the shape difference of inclined to one side circle.Therefore, between chest measurement and neck circumference, chest measurement and neck breadth, neck circumference and the neck breadth dependency relation a little less than, so only determine neck breadth based on human body chest measurement or these two kinds of methods of neck circumference size, be difficult to guarantee that the upper garment neckline can match with human body neck root form exactly, and it is theoretical and human body is actual is not inconsistent, complicated operation, waste material.
Summary of the invention
Purpose of the present invention will provide a kind of upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out exactly, adopts the human body neck breadth to determine that the neckline of upper garment neckline is loose dark with neckline, guarantees that the upper garment neckline can match economical with materials with human body neck root shape exactly.
For achieving the above object, the upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out that the present invention is designed, at first determine upper garment anter ground line and rear panel ground line according to back of the body length and the chest measurement measured, utilize the human body neck breadth to determine that the neckline of upper garment neckline is loose dark with neckline then, determine the neckline camber line according to neckline is wide deeply with neckline again, thereby determine that the upper garment neckline that can be used for cutting finishes line, described neckline is wide comprises before neckline wide and back neck is wide;
When described human body neck breadth adopted the straight line neck breadth, preceding neckline is wide to be respectively with the back neck method for determining width:
Before neckline wide=(straight line neck breadth+1.0cm+ quantity of margin)/2;
Back neck is wide=(straight line neck breadth+2.0cm+ quantity of margin)/2;
Wherein, described straight line neck breadth is that left SNP SIDE NECK POINT arrives air line distance between the right SNP SIDE NECK POINT, and described quantity of margin is 0.5～2.0cm.
When described human body neck breadth adopted the curve neck breadth, preceding neckline is wide to be respectively with the back neck method for determining width:
Before neckline wide=(curve neck breadth-1.0cm+ quantity of margin)/2;
Back neck is wide=(curve neck breadth+1.0cm+ quantity of margin)/2;
Wherein, described curve neck breadth refer to from left SNP SIDE NECK POINT through after the back side arrive beeline between the right SNP SIDE NECK POINT along human body skin surface, described quantity of margin is 0.5～2.0cm.
Further, neckline was dark and back neck is dark before described neckline comprised deeply, described before neckline deeply and the dark definite method of back neck be respectively:
Before neckline dark=preceding neckline is wide+0.5cm;
Back neck is dark=and back neck is wide/and 3.
Further, definite method of described upper garment anter ground line and rear panel ground line is as follows:
Determine rear neck point at cloth, make postmedial line downwards along rear neck point, the vertical line of making postmedial line is waistline, and the distance of described waistline and described rear neck point is long for the back of the body.The vertical line of making rear center's line along distance under rear center's alignment for chest measurement/12+13.7cm place at rear neck point is the dark line of armhole, and the length of the dark line of armhole is chest measurement/2+6cm; End points by the dark line of armhole is drawn the parallel lines of postmedial line, is antemedial line, the dark line of armhole and antemedial line joining along antemedial line upwards distance be definite antemedial line summit, chest measurement/5+8.3cm place.
Again further, neckline camber line and back neck camber line before described neckline camber line comprises, definite method of described preceding neckline camber line and back neck camber line is respectively:
Get the preceding wide point of neckline by the antemedial line summit to the direction of postmedial line, the distance between the described preceding wide point of neckline and the antemedial line summit is that preceding neckline is wide.Get the preceding dark point of neckline by the antemedial line summit to the direction of waistline, the distance between the dark point of described preceding neckline and the antemedial line summit is that preceding neckline is dark.Putting deeply with antemedial line summit, the wide point of preceding neckline and preceding neckline is the summit, to the preceding neckline rectangle of the inboard picture of anter, drawn the diagonal of described preceding neckline rectangle again by the antemedial line summit, and on described diagonal, determine that apart from 2/3 place, antemedial line summit a point is preceding neckline camber line node.Adopt smoothed curve that the dark point of preceding neckline, the wide point of preceding neckline and preceding neckline camber line node are connected, neckline camber line before namely getting;
Get the wide point of back neck by rear neck point to the direction of antemedial line, the distance between the wide point of described back neck and the rear neck point is that back neck is wide, gets the dark point of back neck by rear neck point to the direction of waistline, and the distance between the dark point of described back neck and the rear neck point is that back neck is dark.Adopt smoothed curve with being connected between the dark point of back neck and the wide point of back neck, namely get the back neck camber line.
The invention has the advantages that: upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out of the present invention has been set up human body neck breadth and neckline is loose, neckline is dark relation schema, the neckline of determining the upper garment neckline with the human body neck breadth is loose dark with neckline, determine the neckline camber line deeply according to the wide and neckline of neckline again, thereby determine that the upper garment neckline that can be used for cutting finishes line.Adopt this upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out can avoid bodily form situations such as neck circumference and neck breadth dependency relation be more weak, clear and definite human body neck breadth position structural design (cutting) independence, raising neck span appropriateness, avoid available technology adopting human body chest measurement or human body neck circumference to determine loose and the wide or narrow phenomenon of neckline that cause of the neckline of upper garment neckline, guarantee that the upper garment neckline can match with human body neck root shape exactly, save cloth.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is a kind of structural representation of upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out.
The specific embodiment
The present invention is described in further detail below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments.
Embodiment 1: a kind of upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out, determine that with the straight line neck breadth neckline is wide and neckline is dark.
At first measuring certain female body straight line neck breadth is that 12cm or curve neck breadth are 14cm, the long 39cm of the back of the body and chest measurement 84cm.Wherein: the straight line neck breadth is that left SNP SIDE NECK POINT is to air line distance between the right SNP SIDE NECK POINT.
When adopting the straight line neck breadth to determine that the wide and neckline of neckline is dark, preceding neckline is wide and back neck is wide is respectively:
Before neckline wide=(12cm+1.0cm+1.0cm)/2=7cm;
Back neck is wide=(12cm+2.0cm+1.0cm)/and 2=7.5cm.
At this moment, the dark and back neck of preceding neckline is respectively deeply:
Before neckline dark=7cm+0.5cm=7.5cm;
Back neck is dark=7.5cm/3=2.5cm.
Determine upper garment anter ground line and rear panel ground line: as shown in Figure 1, determine rear neck point 1 at cloth, vertical yarn is directed downwards and makes postmedial line 2 from rear neck point 1 along cloth, and the vertical line of making postmedial line 2 then is waistline 3, and waistline 3 is the long 39cm of the back of the body with the distance of described rear neck point 1.Rear neck point 1 along rear center's line 2 downwards distance be 84cm/12+13.7cm for 20.7cm() vertical line of locating to do rear center's line 2 is the dark line 4 of armhole, the length of the dark line 4 of armhole is that 48cm(is 84cm/2+6cm).End points by the dark line 4 of armhole is drawn the parallel lines of postmedial line 2, is antemedial line 5; The dark line of armhole 4 and antemedial line 5 joinings along antemedial line 5 upwards distance be 84cm/5+8.3cm for 25.1cm() locate to determine antemedial line summit 8.
Get the wide point 7 of back neck by rear neck point 1 to the direction of antemedial line 5, the distance between the wide point 7 of back neck and the rear neck point 1 is the wide 7.5cm of back neck.Get the dark point 6 of back neck by rear neck point 1 to the direction of waistline 3, back neck put deeply 6 and rear neck point 1 between distance be the dark 2.5cm of back neck; Adopt smoothed curve with being connected between the dark point 6 of back neck and the wide point 7 of back neck, namely get back neck camber line 9.
Embodiment 2: a kind of upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out, determine that with the curve neck breadth neckline is wide and neckline is dark.
The curve neck breadth of at first measuring certain female body is 15cm, the long 40cm of the back of the body and chest measurement 86cm.Wherein, the curve neck breadth refer to from left SNP SIDE NECK POINT through after the back side arrive beeline between the right SNP SIDE NECK POINT along human body skin surface.
When adopting the curve neck breadth to determine that the wide and neckline of neckline is dark, preceding neckline is wide and back neck is wide is respectively:
Before neckline wide=(15cm-1.0cm+1.0cm)/2=7.5cm;
Back neck is wide=(15cm+1.0cm)/and 2=8cm.
At this moment, the dark and back neck of preceding neckline is respectively deeply:
Before neckline dark=7.5cm+0.5cm=8cm;
Back neck is dark=8cm/3=2.7cm.
Determine upper garment anter ground line and rear panel ground line: determine rear neck point 1 at cloth, vertical yarn is directed downwards and makes postmedial line 2 from rear neck point 1 along cloth, and the vertical line of making postmedial line 2 then is waistline 3, and waistline 3 is the long 40cm of the back of the body with the distance of described rear neck point 1.Rear neck point 1 along rear center's line 2 downwards distance be 86cm/12+13.7cm for 20.9cm() vertical line of locating to do rear center's line 2 is the dark line 4 of armhole, the length of the dark line 4 of armhole is that 49cm(is 86cm/2+6cm).End points by the dark line 4 of armhole is drawn the parallel lines of postmedial line 2, is antemedial line 5; The dark line of armhole 4 and antemedial line 5 joinings along antemedial line 5 upwards distance be 86cm/5+8.3cm for 25.5cm() locate to determine antemedial line summit 8.
Neckline camber line 12 and back neck camber line 9 before determining: get the preceding wide point 10 of neckline by antemedial line summit 8 to the direction of postmedial line 2, the distance between the wide point 10 of preceding neckline and the antemedial line summit 8 is the wide 7.5cm of preceding neckline.Get the dark point 11 of preceding neckline by antemedial line summit 8 to the direction of waistline 3, the distance between the dark point 11 of preceding neckline and the antemedial line summit 8 is the dark 8cm of preceding neckline.Putting 11 deeply with antemedial line summit 8, the wide point 10 of preceding neckline and preceding neckline is the summit, to the preceding neckline rectangle of the inboard picture of anter, drawn the diagonal of described preceding neckline rectangle again by antemedial line summit 8, and 2/3 place apart from antemedial line summit 8 determines that a point is preceding neckline camber line node 13 on described diagonal.Adopt smoothed curve that the dark point 11 of preceding neckline, the wide point 10 of preceding neckline and preceding neckline camber line node 13 are connected neckline camber line 12 before namely getting.
Get the wide point 7 of back neck by rear neck point 1 to the direction of antemedial line 5, the distance between the wide point 7 of back neck and the rear neck point 1 is the wide 8cm of back neck.Get the dark point 6 of back neck by rear neck point 1 to the direction of waistline 3, back neck put deeply 6 and rear neck point 1 between distance be the dark 2.7cm of back neck; Adopt smoothed curve with being connected between the dark point 6 of back neck and the wide point 7 of back neck, namely get back neck camber line 9.
Claims (5)
1. upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out, at first determine upper garment anter ground line and rear panel ground line according to back of the body length and the chest measurement measured, utilize the human body neck breadth to determine that the neckline of upper garment neckline is loose dark with neckline then, determine the neckline camber line according to neckline is wide deeply with neckline again, thereby determine that the upper garment neckline that can be used for cutting finishes line, described neckline is wide to comprise that preceding neckline is wide and back neck is wide, it is characterized in that: described human body neck breadth adopts the straight line neck breadth, and described preceding neckline is wide to be respectively with the back neck method for determining width:
Before neckline wide=(straight line neck breadth+1.0cm+ quantity of margin)/2;
Back neck is wide=(straight line neck breadth+2.0cm+ quantity of margin)/2;
Wherein, described straight line neck breadth is that left SNP SIDE NECK POINT is to air line distance between the right SNP SIDE NECK POINT.
2. upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described human body neck breadth adopts the curve neck breadth, described before the wide and back neck method for determining width of neckline is respectively:
Before neckline wide=(curve neck breadth-1.0cm+ quantity of margin)/2;
Back neck is wide=(curve neck breadth+1.0cm+ quantity of margin)/2;
Wherein, described curve neck breadth refer to from left SNP SIDE NECK POINT through after the back side arrive beeline between the right SNP SIDE NECK POINT along human body skin surface.
3. upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: neckline was dark and back neck is dark before described neckline comprised deeply, described before neckline deeply and the dark definite method of back neck be respectively:
Before neckline dark=preceding neckline is wide+0.5cm;
Back neck is dark=and back neck is wide/and 3.
4. upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out according to claim 3, it is characterized in that: definite method of described upper garment anter ground line and rear panel ground line is as follows:
Determine rear neck point (1) at cloth, make postmedial line (2) downwards along rear neck point (1), the vertical line of making postmedial line (2) is waistline (3), and described waistline (3) is long for the back of the body with the distance of described rear neck point (1); Be the dark line of armhole (4) apart from the vertical line of making rear center's line (2) for chest measurement/12+13.7cm place at rear neck point (1) downwards along rear center's line (2), the length of the dark line of armhole (4) is chest measurement/2+6cm; End points by the dark line of armhole (4) is drawn the parallel lines of postmedial line (2), is antemedial line (5); Make progress apart from being definite antemedial line summit (8), chest measurement/5+8.3cm place along antemedial line (5) in the dark line of armhole (4) and antemedial line (5) joining.
5. upper garment prototype neckline method of cutting out according to claim 4 is characterized in that: neckline camber line (12) and back neck camber line (9) before described neckline camber line comprises, and definite method of described preceding neckline camber line (12) and back neck camber line (9) is respectively:
Get the preceding wide point of neckline (10) by antemedial line summit (8) to the direction of postmedial line (2), the distance between the described preceding wide point of neckline (10) and antemedial line summit (8) is that preceding neckline is wide; Get the preceding dark point of neckline (11) by antemedial line summit (8) to the direction of waistline (3), the distance between the described preceding dark point of neckline (11) and antemedial line summit (8) is that preceding neckline is dark; Be the summit with antemedial line summit (8), the wide point of preceding neckline (10) and the dark point of preceding neckline (11), to the preceding neckline rectangle of the inboard picture of anter, drawn the diagonal of described preceding neckline rectangle again by antemedial line summit (8), and (8) 2/3 places determine that a point is preceding neckline camber line node (13) apart from the antemedial line summit on described diagonal; Adopt smoothed curve that the dark point of preceding neckline (11), the wide point of preceding neckline (10) and preceding neckline camber line node (13) are connected, neckline camber line (12) before namely getting;
Get the wide point of back neck (7) by rear neck point (1) to the direction of antemedial line (5), the distance between the wide point of described back neck (7) and the rear neck point (1) is that back neck is wide; Get the dark point of back neck (6) by rear neck point (1) to the direction of waistline (3), the distance between the dark point of described back neck (6) and the rear neck point (1) is that back neck is dark; Adopt smoothed curve with being connected between the dark point of back neck (6) and the wide point of back neck (7), namely get back neck camber line (9).
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN2013101235940A CN103181644A (en) | 2013-04-11 | 2013-04-11 | Jacket prototype collar tailoring method |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN2013101235940A CN103181644A (en) | 2013-04-11 | 2013-04-11 | Jacket prototype collar tailoring method |
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| CN103181644A true CN103181644A (en) | 2013-07-03 |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104095331A (en) * | 2014-06-23 | 2014-10-15 | 广东柏堡龙股份有限公司 | Method for tailoring fitted blouse body prototype |
| CN109619737A (en) * | 2018-12-19 | 2019-04-16 | 西京学院 | A kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes |
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2013
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Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104095331A (en) * | 2014-06-23 | 2014-10-15 | 广东柏堡龙股份有限公司 | Method for tailoring fitted blouse body prototype |
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| CN109619737A (en) * | 2018-12-19 | 2019-04-16 | 西京学院 | A kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes |
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Application publication date: 20130703 |