CN109619737A - A kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes - Google Patents
A kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes Download PDFInfo
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- CN109619737A CN109619737A CN201811557014.8A CN201811557014A CN109619737A CN 109619737 A CN109619737 A CN 109619737A CN 201811557014 A CN201811557014 A CN 201811557014A CN 109619737 A CN109619737 A CN 109619737A
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- Prior art keywords
- line
- point
- collar
- split head
- angle
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes, it is cut including the neckline drawing on front cut pieces A, the neckline drawing on rear garment piece B is cut, the drawing of split head D is cut, the drawing of neck piece C is cut, front cut pieces A and split head D is conjoined structure, split head D is drawn according to anter, split head D is for turning down to show garment collar portion the Beauty, neck piece C is charted in split head by means of standing after split head D fold, piece C is led to constitute lapel moulding together with split head D, neckline drawing on rear garment piece B belongs to radian shape structure, for matching the latter half structure of collar.The invention has the advantages that original lapel is tilted to drafting on neckline is improved to stand-type drawing, invisible short slab will be overlapped by solving labyrinth and garment piece shoulder neck position when collar is drawn in inclination in the middle part of collar.Meanwhile the complexity of drawing is reduced, improve the accuracy and operability of drawing.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to clothing collar draughtsmanship fields, and in particular to a kind of drawing cutting side of the stand-type collar of clothes
Method.
Background technique
Western-style clothes is thing from abroad, and the collar that Western-style clothes is matched belongs to turndown collar structure.So far most industry technology personnel are equal since
Using two kinds of drafting methods about western clothes collar, exactly independent method for drafting and neck nest cut out a piece of cloth in a way with the minimum material to make two or more articles of clothing method.The former substantially eliminates
Technical field out, the latter still apply so far.Either to turndown collar matching technique, there are deviations by the former or the latter, though
The former charts simply, but needs high experience and rigorous neckline requirement.For western clothes collar, adopted unlike closing a collar
Garment piece neckline is designed with collar size.So.Neckline design is frequently subjected to such as prevalence, human somatotype structure, clothes material
The factors such as material, modeling effect influence.Single undoubtedly produces the big deficiency of matching degree error using collar size design collar
(often western clothes are indulged open-neck collar and drawn and become larger, and are not limited by collar size), causes not suturing.And the latter generally requires greatly in drawing
The auxiliary segment of amount, and covering due to cutting out a piece of cloth in a way with the minimum material to make two or more articles of clothing the collar at garment piece neck nest and can be tilted by collar by garment piece shoulder neck portion,
It is unable to complete overall structure.
In addition, neck nest cut out a piece of cloth in a way with the minimum material to make two or more articles of clothing method again cannot when turndown collar is turned down by adjusting appearance depending on mistake U.S.A, etc.
Sewed to clothing collar and split head just find it is uncoordinated, it is late.The stand-type neck of a kind of clothes provided by the present invention
The drawing method of cutting out of son is exactly the independence and completeness for solving collar, and not only drawing is simple, easily operated, is also equipped with and turns over
The length such as adjustable collar, split head width and its artistic effect after folding.
Summary of the invention
For the above technical problems, the present invention uses a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes, should
Method has easy to operate, collar matching accurately, the adjustable feature of appearance artistic effect.
In order to reach above-mentioned technical effect, the present invention is realized especially by following technical scheme:
A kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes is cut, rear garment piece B including the neckline drawing on front cut pieces A
On neckline drawing cut, split head D drawing cut, neck piece C drawing cut, the front cut pieces A and split head D are disjunctor knots
Structure.
Neckline on the front cut pieces A, which charts, to be cut, and shoulder neck point b is set, and draws a line segment by shoulder neck point b level
For upper horizontal line and a point is intercepted, stop h is turned in setting split head lower end, turns at stop h at the waist nodel line of garment piece, by h point and a point phase
Turn-line is connected and composed, a stand-up collar mouth line section parallel with turn-line is drawn by shoulder neck point b and intercepts neckline intersection point f, is set
Serial ports line segment fi and turn-line ha constitutes 40 degree of angle, and extension determines split head width line segment ki in m point, and km constitutes split head D beam overall
Degree, is taken advantage of a situation by the tendency of split head D collar extension camber line hm and extends interception j point, and setting roll line line segment ij and serial ports line segment fi constitute one
Angle fij, connects hm with camber line and the whole split head D collar extension camber line of composition, split head are intersected in extension of making use of momentum with the j point of roll line line segment ij
D is made of profile point o, i, j, m, h.
Neckline on the rear garment piece B, which charts, to be cut, and sets d point as the shoulder neck point of rear garment piece B, e point is rear garment piece B's
Cervical vertebra point afterwards, the upper horizontal line that d point is drawn are rear garment piece B upper horizontal line, draw the dorsal line perpendicular to upper horizontal line by e point, upper flat
The extension of line and dorsal line constitutes the point c that joins, and dc is the horizontal opening neckline of rear garment piece B, and ce is that rear garment piece B indulges opening neckline, and connection de is simultaneously
It is vertically recessed at the one third close to shoulder neck point d and generates t point, connection camber line etd constitutes back neck camber line.
The drawing of the neck piece C is cut, and is constituted the inclined line segment oq of angle 3 with turn-line ha with the extraction of o point one, instead
The serial ports line segment fi that direction extends after fold generates the leading line segment in bottom, makes on=of, setting inclined line segment oq and camber line etd
Length is identical, and the vertical segment yp, yp that inclined line segment oq is drawn with q point are collar rear centerline, and setting sets leading width is,
It is separately connected s, i, o, n, p, y point and constitutes collar profile, ys line is collar collar extension.
The length calculation method of the interception a point are as follows: -0.5 centimetre of bottom neck height.
The length of the serial ports line segment fi is determined by the split head width line segment ki that determines perpendicular to turn-line ha.
The value range of the angle fij is 90 °~95 °, for drawing roll line.
The turn-line ha and serial ports line segment fi intersects at o point, the fold point for lapel and bottom neck.
The front cut pieces A upper horizontal line and front cut pieces A composition determine angle 2, and determining angle 2 is front cut pieces A shoulder slope.
The rear garment piece B upper horizontal line and rear garment piece B composition determine angle 1, and determining angle 1 is rear garment piece B shoulder slope.
The calculation method of the angle 3 are as follows: (the angle angle 1+ 2)-[2/3* (the angle angle 1+ 2)].
The invention has the benefit that
The present invention cuts structure using stand-type collar, and carries out drafting collar after turning down using split head.Using this
Drafting method is conducive to less numerous auxiliary segments when collar is drawn, and improves operability, reduces error.And it can by standing
To see the macroscopic features of collar and split head, parameters are conveniently adjusted, make up to stronger artistic presentation.Meanwhile it applying
The calculation method of shoulder slope intuitively express lapel volt fall degree draw, thus solve being identical between lapel and split head and
Science between lapel and bottom neck matches.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is front cut pieces A collar structure schematic diagram of the invention；
Fig. 2 is rear garment piece B collar structure schematic diagram of the invention；
Fig. 3 is the stand-type structural schematic diagram of collar of the invention；
Fig. 4 is collar juxtaposition schematic diagram of the invention；
Fig. 5 is collar lapel cutting schematic diagram of the present invention；
Fig. 6 is bottom collar structure schematic diagram of the invention；
Fig. 7 is the partial enlarged view of Fig. 5 of the present invention；
Fig. 8 is that lapel of the invention puts margin to seam schematic diagram；
Fig. 9 is that bottom neck of the invention puts margin to seam schematic diagram.
Specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment of the present invention, technical solution of the present invention is clearly and completely described, is shown
So, described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments.Based on the reality in the present invention
Example is applied, every other embodiment obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art without making creative efforts all belongs to
In the scope of protection of the invention.
The present invention provides a kind of stand-type collar method of cutting out of clothes, feature includes the neckline drawing on front cut pieces A
It cuts, the neckline drawing on rear garment piece B is cut, the drawing of split head D is cut, the drawing of neck piece C is cut；Front cut pieces A and split head D are
Conjoined structure, split head D are drawn according to anter, and split head D is for turning down to show garment collar portion the Beauty.Neck piece C be by
It stands after split head D fold and charts in split head, neck piece C constitutes lapel moulding together with split head D.Neckline drawing on rear garment piece B
Belong to radian shape structure, for matching the latter half structure of collar.
Collar is drawn on Serial Port Line using individually stand-type drafting method, collar standing.Split head must be turned over
It folds to garment piece chest and more coordinates perfection depending on the whole split head that is allowed to of misadjustment, collar is drawn at split head serial ports after the adjustment,
The outer mouth line of collar and split head collar extension form unified moulding, it is leading be contrasted with split head or peak lapel or notch it is equal
It can.Collar carries out lapel after charting and the separation of bottom neck is cut, and lapel goes out 0.8 centimetre than fold line width, and bottom neck is 0.8 li narrow
Rice, but bottom neck both ends must warp, and the moulding degree of enclosing for embracing neck of collar is formed after the suture of purpose collar.
As shown in Fig. 1~8, front and back neckline figure is drawn by garment piece.B point is set as shoulder neck point on front cut pieces A, by
B point level draws a line segment and is upper horizontal line and intercepts a point.Ba=2.5 centimetres, calculation method " -0.5 centimetre of bottom neck height ",
Bottom neck is set as 3.0 centimetres.H point is set again and turns over stop as split head lower end, at h point at the waist nodel line of garment piece.By h point and a point
It is connected to form turn-line, for turning down split head and collar.A stand-up collar mouth line section parallel with turn-line is drawn by b point and is cut
3.0 centimetres are taken as f point, f point is neckline intersection point.The line segment fi and turn-line ha that sets up serial ports constitutes 40 degree of angle, serial ports line segment
The length of fi determines ki=4.0 centimetres of line segment of split head width by determining split head width line segment ki perpendicular to turn-line ha and determining.Prolong
Length determines split head width line segment ki and results from m point, and im=5.0 centimetres, km just constitutes 9.0 centimetres of split head overall width.Set roll line line
Section ij and serial ports line segment fi structure have angle fij, the value range of angle fij: 90 degree~95 degree, for drawing roll line.Use camber line
The whole split head D collar extension camber line of composition is intersected in connection hm and extension of making use of momentum with the j point of roll line line segment ij, and camber line camber depends on straight
Line segment hj central convex amount, sets evagination amount as 1.0 centimetres.Front cut pieces A upper horizontal line and front cut pieces A composition determine angle 2, and determining angle 2 is
Front cut pieces shoulder slope, value are as follows: 19~21 degree.Connection such as point b, f, i, j, m, h constitutes anter neckline and split head D, is going here and there
Watershed point o, the fold point for lapel and bottom neck are generated on mouth line section fi again.Split head D is made of point o, i, j, m, h, according to
Front cut pieces chest is folded to according to turn-line ha (or oh).
D point is set as the shoulder neck point of rear garment piece, is rear garment piece B upper horizontal line by the horizontal line that shoulder neck point b point is drawn, by rear
The vertical line that cervical vertebra point e is drawn is dorsal line, and the extension of upper horizontal line and dorsal line constitutes the point c that joins.Dc is set as rear garment piece cross
Opening neckline, dc=8.0 centimetres, calculation method: net body bust/20+3.5, number type set 175/90A male body, set ce as rear clothing
Piece indulges opening neckline, and ce=2.6 centimetres, calculation method: (net body bust/20+3.5)/3, number type set 175/90A male body.Connection
De simultaneously draws camber line etd composition back neck camber line.Rear garment piece B upper horizontal line and rear garment piece B composition determine angle 1, and determining angle 1 is rear garment piece B
Shoulder slope, value are as follows: 20~22 degree.
It leads the drawing of piece C to cut, carries out drafting collar according to the split head D after fold.One and turn-line are drawn with o point
Constitute the inclined line segment oq of angle, the angle 3 constituted, value range；" 13~14 degree ", calculation method；" (the angle angle 1+ 2)-
[2/3* (the angle angle 1+ 2)] " is to fall to spend for collar lapel volt.Drafting collar is carried out according to the split head after fold.Opposite direction extends
Serial ports line segment fi after fold generates the leading line segment in bottom, makes on=of.The length of inclined line segment oq=camber line etd is set, is used
The collar length after drafting.The vertical segment yp, yp that inclined line segment oq is drawn with q point are collar rear centerline.Set yq=
4.0 centimetres, qp=3.0 centimetres, yq is lapel structure, and qp is bottom collar structure.Setting sets leading width is, and is=4.0 centimetres,
Leading wide is and split head ij constitutes 2 degree of a small-sized angle, for heming with invisible stitches seam closure so that leading docile.Be separately connected s, i, o, n, p,
The points such as y constitute collar profile, and ys line is collar collar extension, are linearly drawn using the S of small radian, and oq is collar turn-line, will be in refuting
Head turn-line turns down entire collar together.The half collar drawn is lifted down and is set to a whole collar structure, at it
Copy lapel above, setting lapel it is wider than inclined line segment oq go out 0.8 centimetre put 1.0 centimetres of margin to seam and cut.It sets bottom and leads ratio
Inclined line segment oq is 0.8 centimetre narrow, and by bottom neck be depicted as both ends have warp 1.0 centimetres miniature radian collar and put margin to seam
1.0 centimetres are cut.
It although an embodiment of the present invention has been shown and described, for the ordinary skill in the art, can be with
Understand without departing from the principles and spirit of the present invention can to these examples carry out it is a variety of variation, modification, replacement and
Modification, the scope of the present invention is defined by the appended.
Claims (8)
1. a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes, which is characterized in that chart and cut out including the neckline on front cut pieces A
It cuts, the neckline drawing on rear garment piece B is cut, the drawing of split head D is cut, the drawing of neck piece C is cut, the front cut pieces A and split head D
It is conjoined structure；
Neckline on the front cut pieces A, which charts, to be cut, and shoulder neck point b is set, and it is upper flat for drawing a line segment by shoulder neck point b level
Line simultaneously intercepts a point, and stop h is turned in setting split head lower end, turns at stop h at the waist nodel line of garment piece, and h point is connected structure with a point
At turn-line, a stand-up collar mouth line section parallel with turn-line is drawn by shoulder neck point b and intercepts neckline intersection point f, line of setting up serial ports
Section fi and turn-line ha constitutes 40 degree of angle, and extension determines split head width line segment ki in m point, and km constitutes split head D overall width, passes through
The tendency of split head D collar extension camber line hm is taken advantage of a situation extension interception j point, and setting roll line line segment ij and serial ports line segment fi structure have angle fij,
Hm is connected with camber line and the whole split head D collar extension camber line of composition is intersected in extension of making use of momentum with the j point of roll line line segment ij, and split head D is by taking turns
Exterior feature point o, i, j, m, h are constituted；
Neckline on the rear garment piece B, which charts, to be cut, and sets d point as the shoulder neck point of rear garment piece B, e point is the posterior neck of rear garment piece B
Vertebra point, the upper horizontal line that d point is drawn be rear garment piece B upper horizontal line, by e point draw perpendicular to upper horizontal line dorsal line, upper horizontal line with
The extension of dorsal line constitutes the point c that joins, and dc is the horizontal opening neckline of rear garment piece B, and ce is that rear garment piece B indulges opening neckline, connects de and is simultaneously leaning on
It is vertically recessed at the one third of nearly shoulder neck point d and generates t point, connection camber line etd constitutes back neck camber line；
The drawing of the neck piece C is cut, and is constituted the inclined line segment oq of angle 3, opposite direction with turn-line ha with the extraction of o point one
Serial ports line segment fi after extending fold generates the leading line segment in bottom, makes on=of, sets the length of inclined line segment oq and camber line etd
It is identical, the vertical segment yp of inclined line segment oq is drawn with q point, yp is collar rear centerline, sets leading width is, be separately connected s,
I, o, n, p, y point constitute collar profile, and ys line is collar collar extension.
2. a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes according to claim 1, which is characterized in that described cuts
Take the length calculation method of a point are as follows: -0.5 centimetre of bottom neck height.
3. a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the string
The length of mouth line section fi is determined by the split head width line segment ki that determines perpendicular to turn-line ha.
4. a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the angle
The value range of fij is 90 °~95 °, for drawing roll line.
5. a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes according to claim 1, which is characterized in that described turns over
Broken line ha and serial ports line segment fi intersect at o point, the fold point for lapel and bottom neck.
6. a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes according to claim 1, which is characterized in that before described
Garment piece A upper horizontal line and front cut pieces A composition determine angle 2, and determining angle 2 is front cut pieces A shoulder slope.
7. a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes according to claim 1, which is characterized in that after described
Garment piece B upper horizontal line and rear garment piece B composition determine angle 1, and determining angle 1 is rear garment piece B shoulder slope.
8. a kind of drawing method of cutting out of the stand-type collar of clothes according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the folder
The calculation method at angle 3 are as follows: (the angle angle 1+ 2)-[2/3 × (the angle angle 1+ 2)].
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811557014.8A CN109619737B (en) | 2018-12-19 | 2018-12-19 | Drawing and cutting method for standing collar of clothes |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811557014.8A CN109619737B (en) | 2018-12-19 | 2018-12-19 | Drawing and cutting method for standing collar of clothes |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN109619737A true CN109619737A (en) | 2019-04-16 |
| CN109619737B CN109619737B (en) | 2021-04-09 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811557014.8A Active CN109619737B (en) | 2018-12-19 | 2018-12-19 | Drawing and cutting method for standing collar of clothes |
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| Country | Link |
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| CN (1) | CN109619737B (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN112641155A (en) * | 2020-12-28 | 2021-04-13 | 西京学院 | Drawing and cutting method for female dovetail clothes |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN2036761U (en) * | 1987-11-23 | 1989-05-03 | 刘文瑞 | Drawing instrument for collar cutting out of open collar clothes |
| CN1514390A (en) * | 2003-03-06 | 2004-07-21 | 宋玉生 | Clothing CAD Sheeting method |
| CN1703988A (en) * | 2004-05-25 | 2005-12-07 | 江继明 | Paper folding costume fent method |
| CN201657783U (en) * | 2009-11-09 | 2010-12-01 | 浙江报喜鸟服饰股份有限公司 | Western-style clothes |
| CN103181644A (en) * | 2013-04-11 | 2013-07-03 | 广东柏堡龙股份有限公司 | Jacket prototype collar tailoring method |
| CN107981424A (en) * | 2017-11-25 | 2018-05-04 | 浙江尔乐纺织品有限公司 | Frivolous western-style clothes and preparation method thereof |
-
2018
- 2018-12-19 CN CN201811557014.8A patent/CN109619737B/en active Active
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN2036761U (en) * | 1987-11-23 | 1989-05-03 | 刘文瑞 | Drawing instrument for collar cutting out of open collar clothes |
| CN1514390A (en) * | 2003-03-06 | 2004-07-21 | 宋玉生 | Clothing CAD Sheeting method |
| CN1703988A (en) * | 2004-05-25 | 2005-12-07 | 江继明 | Paper folding costume fent method |
| CN201657783U (en) * | 2009-11-09 | 2010-12-01 | 浙江报喜鸟服饰股份有限公司 | Western-style clothes |
| CN103181644A (en) * | 2013-04-11 | 2013-07-03 | 广东柏堡龙股份有限公司 | Jacket prototype collar tailoring method |
| CN107981424A (en) * | 2017-11-25 | 2018-05-04 | 浙江尔乐纺织品有限公司 | Frivolous western-style clothes and preparation method thereof |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN112641155A (en) * | 2020-12-28 | 2021-04-13 | 西京学院 | Drawing and cutting method for female dovetail clothes |
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| CN109619737B (en) | 2021-04-09 |
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Effective date of registration: 20220617 Address after: 466000 industrial cluster area, Shangshui County, Zhoukou City, Henan Province Patentee after: HENAN ALPEN GARMENT Co.,Ltd. Address before: No.1 Xijing Road, Chang'an District, Xi'an City, Shaanxi Province 710100 Patentee before: XIJING University |
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