CN116090036A - Shaping method of inner rotator cuff of western-style clothes - Google Patents
Shaping method of inner rotator cuff of western-style clothes Download PDFInfo
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- CN116090036A CN116090036A CN202310081299.7A CN202310081299A CN116090036A CN 116090036 A CN116090036 A CN 116090036A CN 202310081299 A CN202310081299 A CN 202310081299A CN 116090036 A CN116090036 A CN 116090036A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a molding method of an inner rotator cuff of western-style clothes, which is characterized by comprising the following steps of: s1, acquiring human body measurement data and recording; s2, calculating the quantity of the inner rotator cuff according to the acquired human body measurement data; s3, according to the large quantity obtained by calculation, basic model determination is carried out by combining with human body measurement data, and model change is carried out through drawing software; the S31 model changing method comprises the following steps: taking a front seam end point of a cuff as a starting point, moving a large cuff line leftwards along the line e, and moving a small cuff line rightwards along the line b, so that a front seam sleeve concave point is along the front seam end point of the cuff; and (3) moving the fall point of the rear sleeve of the large sleeve along the line to the right for h, moving the fall point of the rear sleeve of the small sleeve along the line to the left for k, wrapping the fall line of the rear sleeve from the edge of the sleeve to the elbow of the sleeve to the rear sleeve into the small sleeve, and enabling the line of the rear sleeve to protrude out of the elbow bending effect, so that the shape of the elbow of the human body is met. The operation is convenient and efficient, and the whole model generation process only needs less than 1 minute, which is far lower than 60 minutes needed by the traditional manual operation.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing, and particularly relates to a method for molding inner rotator sleeves of western-style clothes.
Background
The design of clothing structures is an aesthetic and engineering discipline. The structural design of the sleeve is of great importance, both from the point of view of the aesthetic and comfort aspects of the garment, and the sleeve is a non-negligible component.
The ever-changing sleeves are newly occupying a considerable proportion of the push-out of garments. The sleeves can strengthen and enrich the clothing and simultaneously enrich and improve the aesthetic feeling of the clothing in the whole shape of the clothing. The sleeves are used as part of the modeling in the clothing, are connected with the armholes of the clothing body by taking the cylinder shape as a basic shape, and form a complete clothing modeling, and from the design perspective, the armholes with different structures and shapes can be generated by different clothing modeling and functions.
The sleeves are not only one component of the garment, but also play a great role in reflecting the air quality of the wearer, and transfer the life attitude and emotion of people; the modeling of the sleeves directly influences the actions of limbs, and the hollowness, the length and the length of the sleeves are designed according to the needs. Meanwhile, people have different choices and favorites for various sleeve types due to the differences of gender, age, occupation, season and appreciation angle.
Based on the principle of ergonomics, when the human arm naturally sags forward slightly, the arm leans forward at an included angle of 6.18 degrees. The traditional sleeve shape is manufactured manually from measurement to final completion, and takes a long time.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to make up the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a technical scheme for transforming a theoretical sleeve shape into a specific shape, and applying the elements of arm structure, function, shape and beauty to the model, mainly aiming at the shaping method of the inner rotator cuff of the western-style suit for men and women.
Based on the principle of ergonomics, when the human arm naturally sags forward slightly, the arm leans forward at an included angle of 6.18 degrees. By referring to the theory, when the sample plate is processed, the analysis of the correlation between the whole angle and the part is combined, and the comprehensive analysis is also performed from the aspects of human body structure, body shape, sewing technology and the like, so that the quality of the finished clothes is improved, and the perfect unification of the appearance modeling and the movement comfort of the sleeves is achieved. The elbow province of one sleeve of the combined body is transferred and the front suture is combined and is converted into the structural relation of two dividing lines, and the two dividing lines with the complementary sizes are processed, so that the two combined sleeve structures are more in accordance with the modeling and the attractive appearance of the arm curved trend compared with the modeling of the one combined sleeve structure.
The invention realizes the structural data and parameters of the internal rotator cuff through the comparison, study and analysis of the sleeve type of the suit for men and women, and leads the structure, angle, camber, air degree and the like of the internal rotator cuff to be generated. The bending form of the front sleeve suture of the large sleeve piece is increased according to the length difference of the front sleeve suture and the rear sleeve suture, and the attribute of the fabric is combined, and the length difference of the front sleeve suture and the rear sleeve suture of the sleeve is reduced by adopting a return-pull process means, so that the front sleeve suture and the rear sleeve suture generate mechanical torsion.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is a method for molding the inner rotator cuff of the western-style clothes, which comprises the following steps:
s1, acquiring and recording human body measurement data, and recording the cuff width as CW and the chest circumference as B;
s2, calculating the quantity of the inner rotator cuff according to the acquired human body measurement data;
s3, according to the large quantity obtained by calculation, basic model determination is carried out by combining with human body measurement data, and model change is carried out through drawing software;
the S31 model changing method comprises the following steps: taking a front seam end point of a cuff as a starting point, moving a large cuff line leftwards along the line e, and moving a small cuff line rightwards along the line b, so that a front seam sleeve concave point is along the front seam end point of the cuff;
and (3) moving the fall point of the rear sleeve of the large sleeve along the line to the right for h, moving the fall point of the rear sleeve of the small sleeve along the line to the left for k, wrapping the fall line of the rear sleeve from the edge of the sleeve to the elbow of the sleeve to the rear sleeve into the small sleeve, and enabling the line of the rear sleeve to protrude out of the elbow bending effect, so that the shape of the elbow of the human body is met.
Further, in step S2, the increased number of inner rotator cuff includes a large sleeve piece cuff and a small sleeve piece cuff, respectively
Male big sleeve piece cuff = B +.10+2.7+2 internal rotation 5 ° (constant) +sleeve bias;
female large sleeve piece cuff=b +.10+2.9+1 internal rotation 2.5 ° (constant) +sleeve bias;
male small sleeve piece cuff=B +.10+2.7-2 internal rotation 5 ° (number) -partial sleeve volume;
female small sleeve piece cuff=b +.10+2.9-1 internal rotation 2.5 ° (number) -partial sleeve amount.
Further, in the step S3, the chest circumference base of the basic model is 108cm for men and 96cm for women.
Further, in the step S31, b is 1-2cm, c is 1-2cm, d is 1-2cm, and e is 1-2cm.
Further, the sleeve deflection amount is 2.5-3cm.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages:
and determining linkage variation of other parts by calculating the quantity of the inner rotator sleeves of the standard body, wherein the linkage variation is the sleeve bending degree of the standard body. The layout change is operated by means of clothing CAD software, the operation is convenient and efficient, the whole layout generation process only needs less than 1 minute, and the time is far lower than 60 minutes required by the traditional manual operation. The invention solves the problem of internal rotation sleeve type modeling variation of men and women rapidly and effectively, has higher practical value, and can improve the comfort and the fit aesthetic property of the dressing.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a diagram of the results of the study of the inner rotator cuff of the men's western-style suit of example 1;
fig. 2 is a graph showing the results of the rotator cuff study in the western-style suit of example 2.
In the figure: 1, pulling out the suture of the front sleeve of the large sleeve; 2, gathering amount of the suture of the rear sleeve of the large sleeve; 3, a sleeve concave line point of a front sleeve seam of the large sleeve; 4, a sleeve concave line point of a front sleeve seam of the small sleeve; a is a rear cuff end point of the big sleeve; the front cuff internal rotation end point of the small sleeve is B; c, front cuff end points of the small sleeves; d, front cuff end points of the big sleeves; e, an internal rotation end point of the front cuff of the big sleeve; f, a rear sleeve end point of the small sleeve; the rear sleeve of the K small sleeve is deviated from the sleeve end point; g, a rear sleeve end point of the large sleeve; the rear sleeve of the H big sleeve is deviated from the sleeve end point; m is the difference point of the rear sleeve and the front sleeve; n small sleeve rear sleeve peak drop points.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Example 1
As shown in FIG. 1, a method for shaping inner sleeves of a men's western-style suit is exemplified by a standard body frame size 108 CM.
(1) Obtaining anthropometric data of a standard body, marking the width of a cuff as CW, and marking a chest circumference as B, wherein B=108 CM, CW=B/10+2.7=13.5 CM, the width CW of the cuff is half of the circumference of the cuff, the size of the cuff is marked as a large diameter, the circumference of the cuff is a large circumference radius, and the sleeve offset is 2.5CM;
(2) Calculating the internal rotator cuff volume of the standard body, wherein the large sleeve piece cuff=b/10+2.7+2 internal rotator by 5 ° (number) +2.5=18;
sleeve panel cuff = B/10+2.7-2 internal rotation 5 ° (number) -2.5 = 9;
the number refers to a standard body, and the male internal rotator cuff is generally calculated by determining the number by 5 degrees, so that the female internal rotator cuff has smaller force feeling than the male internal rotator cuff.
(3) Determining a basic model according to anthropometric data of a standard body, and carrying out model change on the basis of the basic model by means of clothing CAD software:
taking a front sleeve seam endpoint of a large sleeve as a starting point, moving a front sleeve endpoint D of the large sleeve to the left of an internal rotation endpoint E of the front sleeve by 2CM along the line, moving a front sleeve endpoint C of the small sleeve to the right of an internal rotation endpoint B of the small sleeve by 2CM along the line, leading a concave line point of the front sleeve seam to be along the line to the internal rotation endpoint E of the front sleeve, leading a concave line point of the front sleeve seam of the small sleeve to be along the line to the internal rotation endpoint B of the front sleeve, and changing the size of the sleeve along with the change of chest circumference.
The end point G of the big-sleeve rear sleeve is moved to the right by 2CM along the line to the end point H of the big-sleeve rear sleeve, the end point F of the small-sleeve rear sleeve is moved to the left by 2CM along the line to the end point K of the small-sleeve rear sleeve, the seam of the end point H of the big-sleeve rear sleeve is wrapped along the line to the elbow of the sleeve and into the small sleeve, the seam of the end point K of the small-sleeve rear sleeve is wrapped along the line to the elbow of the sleeve, and the line of the small-sleeve rear sleeve protrudes out of the elbow bending effect of the sleeve and accords with the shape of the elbow of the human body. The end point MN is a difference point of the rear sleeve and the rear sleeve, and the end point MN is an internal rotation.
Example 2
Referring to fig. 2, a method for shaping an inner rotator cuff of a women's western-style clothes is exemplified by a standard body-made bust 96CM.
(1) Obtaining anthropometric data of a standard body, and marking the cuff width as CW and the chest circumference as B, wherein B=96 CM, CW=B/10+2.9=12.5 CM (half circumference), and the cuff offset is set to be 3CM;
(2) Calculating the internal rotator cuff volume of the standard body, wherein the female large sleeve piece cuff=b/10+2.9+1 internal rotator by 2.5 ° (number) +3=16.5; female small sleeve cuff = B/10+2.9-1 pronated by 2.5 ° (number) -3 = 8.5;
(3) Determining a basic model according to anthropometric data of a standard body, and carrying out model change on the basis of the basic model by means of clothing CAD software:
taking a front sleeve seam end point of the cuff as a starting point, moving a large cuff line left by 1CM along the line, moving a small cuff line right by 1CM along the line, and enabling a front sleeve seam elbow point to be along the front sleeve seam point of the cuff, wherein the change can enable the size of the cuff to be changed along with the change of the chest circumference;
the back sleeve falling point of the large sleeve is moved by 1CM along the line to the right, the back sleeve falling point of the small sleeve is moved by 1CM along the line to the left, the back sleeve falling suture line wraps the small sleeve from the edge of the sleeve to the sleeve elbow, the back sleeve line protrudes the sleeve elbow bending effect, and the shape of the human sleeve elbow is met.
According to the technical scheme disclosed by the invention, the sleeve type structure is changed to generate mechanical torsion to form an internal rotation effect, the research of the internal rotation sleeve of the western-style clothes is borrowed by combining European fashion trend and genre, the effect of the finished clothes is verified by adopting three-dimensional cutting and 3D virtual simulation technology, and the subject research is carried out on the shaping, angle, camber and air degree of the internal rotation sleeve of the male and female western-style clothes.
The length difference of the front sleeve suture and the rear sleeve suture of the two sleeves is analyzed, the bending form of the front sleeve suture of the large sleeve piece is increased, the length difference of the front sleeve suture and the rear sleeve suture of the sleeves is reduced by adopting a return-pull process in combination with the properties of fabrics, the modeling effect of the internal rotation sleeve is achieved in ironing and shaping, the continuous conversion and innovation of the traditional western-style clothes sleeve in the past are changed in the plate making process, and the requirements of modern people on the functions and aesthetic requirements of wearing the aptamer are met.
Claims (5)
1. The molding method of the inner rotator cuff of the western-style clothes is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
s1, acquiring and recording human body measurement data, and recording the cuff width as CW and the chest circumference as B;
s2, calculating the quantity of the inner rotator cuff according to the acquired human body measurement data;
s3, according to the large quantity obtained by calculation, basic model determination is carried out by combining with human body measurement data, and model change is carried out through drawing software;
the S31 model changing method comprises the following steps: taking a front seam end point of a cuff as a starting point, moving a large cuff line leftwards along the line e, and moving a small cuff line rightwards along the line b, so that a front seam sleeve concave point is along the front seam end point of the cuff;
and (3) moving the fall point of the rear sleeve of the large sleeve along the line to the right for h, moving the fall point of the rear sleeve of the small sleeve along the line to the left for k, wrapping the fall line of the rear sleeve from the edge of the sleeve to the elbow of the sleeve to the rear sleeve into the small sleeve, and enabling the line of the rear sleeve to protrude out of the elbow bending effect, so that the shape of the elbow of the human body is met.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein in step S2, the plurality of inner sleeves includes a large sleeve piece cuff and a small sleeve piece cuff, respectively
Male big sleeve piece cuff = B +.10+2.7+2 internal rotation 5 ° + partial sleeve volume;
female large sleeve piece cuff=b +.10+2.9+1 internal rotation 2.5 ° + partial sleeve volume;
male small sleeve piece cuff = B +.10+2.7-2 internal rotation 5 ° -sleeve bias;
sleeve opening = B +.10+2.9-1 rotator for female small sleeve 2.5 ° -offset sleeve.
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein in the step S3, the chest circumference base of the basic model is 108cm for men and 96cm for women.
4. The method of claim 1, wherein in the step S31, b is 1-2cm, c is 1-2cm, d is 1-2cm, and e is 1-2cm.
5. A method of shaping a sleeve for western-style clothes according to claim 2, wherein the sleeve bias is 2.5-3cm.
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN117256985A (en) * | 2023-09-22 | 2023-12-22 | 波司登羽绒服装有限公司 | Preparation method of bent sleeve and bent sleeve garment |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN117256985A (en) * | 2023-09-22 | 2023-12-22 | 波司登羽绒服装有限公司 | Preparation method of bent sleeve and bent sleeve garment |
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