CN108936917B - High-end customized convex body type men western-style clothes pattern rapid generation method - Google Patents

High-end customized convex body type men western-style clothes pattern rapid generation method Download PDF

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CN108936917B
CN108936917B CN201810781812.2A CN201810781812A CN108936917B CN 108936917 B CN108936917 B CN 108936917B CN 201810781812 A CN201810781812 A CN 201810781812A CN 108936917 B CN108936917 B CN 108936917B
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point
seam
moving
belly
western
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CN108936917A (en
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陈晓春
屠建军
顾宏青
陈春霞
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Ningbo Yageer Garments Co ltd
Ningbo Youngor Yingcheng Uniform Co ltd
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NINGBO YOUNGOR YINGCHENG UNIFORM CO Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/01Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth using stencils
    • A41H3/015Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth using stencils of adjustable type

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a rapid generating method of male western-style clothes template based on high-end customized belly shape, which determines the linkage variable quantity of other parts by calculating the seam allowance increase of a belly shape guest, and the template change is operated by means of clothing CAD software, so that the operation is convenient and efficient, and the whole template generating process only needs less than 1 minute. The method takes the chest waist difference of a standard A-type man as the base number of the change of the seam allowance, so that the seam allowance of a guest with different belly body types is changed according to the difference of the chest waist difference, is not a quantitative ratio, but a changeable numerical value, and is suitable for the rapid generation of the western-style clothes pattern with the chest circumference larger than or smaller than the waist circumference. The invention quickly and effectively solves the problem of the plate shape change of the industrialized high-end customized convex belly type men western-style clothes, has higher practical value, and can improve the wearing comfort and the fit of the high-end customized convex belly type men western-style clothes while improving the manufacturing efficiency of the western-style clothes.

Description

High-end customized convex body type men western-style clothes pattern rapid generation method
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of garment customization, in particular to a rapid generation method of a convex abdomen type male western-style clothes pattern based on high-end customization.
Background
With the development of economy and the continuous improvement of living standard of people, more and more men with small belly have, and the traditional industrial production of clothes cannot meet the increasing individual requirements of clothes.
At present, the number of people for measuring the body of a garment manufacturing enterprise is scarce, the level is uneven, most experiences are insufficient, and the repair rate is increased.
Based on the above situation, there is a need to find a method for quickly generating the form of the men's western-style clothes with the belly shape without manual judgment, and the ready-made clothes made by the generated form can make customers with the belly shape more comfortable and fit to wear the western-style clothes.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a rapid generation method of the shape of the high-end customized convex belly type men western-style clothes, aiming at the defects of the prior art, so that the problem of shape change of the industrialized high-end customized convex belly type men western-style clothes is rapidly and effectively solved, the method has higher practical value, and the wearing comfort and the fit of the high-end customized convex belly type men western-style clothes can be improved while the manufacturing efficiency of the western-style clothes is improved.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows: a rapid generation method of a male western-style clothes template based on a high-end customized belly shape comprises the following steps:
(1) acquiring human body measurement data of a client with a belly shape, and recording chest circumference as B, waist circumference as W and chest-waist difference as BW, wherein the BW is B-W, and the units of B, W and BW are centimeters;
(2) calculating the added BW 'of the seam allowance of the bellied guest, wherein the BW' is calculated by the following formula: BW '═ 0.15 × (12-BW), where 12 in the formula represents the chest and waist difference size for a standard a size male, BW' in centimeters;
(3) determining a basic pattern according to the human body measurement data of the belly type guest, and changing the pattern on the basis of the basic pattern by means of clothing CAD software:
taking the lower collar corner point as a starting point, moving the lapel dead point to the left by 100% BW ', moving the lower seam allowance line to the left by 100% BW' in parallel, moving the lower collar corner point to the left by 25% BW ', and moving the folding door line to the left by 100% BW', wherein the change can make the seam allowance larger along with the smaller difference of the chest and the waist, and simultaneously the lower seam allowance line, the lower collar corner point and the folding door line synchronously change;
the chest dart line is moved to the left by 50 percent BW ' in parallel, the upper belly dart point is moved to the upper 60 percent BW ', the lower belly dart point is taken as a starting point, the side seam bottom swinging point of the front piece is moved to the left by 50 percent BW ', the change can enlarge the belly dart, the suit is more fitted, and the rabbets are prevented from being stirred;
taking the side piece side seam middle waist point and the side piece side seam middle waist point as starting points, moving the side piece armhole line to the right by 50 percent BW', moving the side piece armhole line to the right, and enabling the armpit to be enlarged and matched with the enlarged abdomen of the convex abdomen body type person; taking the upper opening point of the side piece swing seam as a starting point, moving the waist point in the side piece swing seam to the left by 50% BW ', moving the bottom swing point of the side piece swing seam to the left by 25% BW ', and moving the side piece bottom cycloid upwards by 60% BW ' in parallel;
the upper opening point of the back piece swing seam is used as a starting point, the middle waist point of the back piece swing seam is moved rightwards by 50% BW ', the bottom swing point of the back piece swing seam is moved rightwards by 25% BW ', and the bottom cycloid of the back piece is moved upwards by 60% BW ' in parallel, thus the male western-style clothes with bellied body are produced.
Generally, the difference between chest and waist becomes smaller as the body shape of the human body becomes larger. The method takes the chest waist difference (namely 12 cm) of a standard A-type man as the base number of the change of the seam allowance, so that the seam allowance of a guest with different belly types is changed according to the difference of the chest waist difference, is not a quantitative ratio, but a changeable numerical value, and is suitable for the rapid generation of the suit pattern with the chest circumference larger than or smaller than the waist circumference.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages: the invention discloses a rapid generating method of male western-style clothes template of convex belly type based on high-end customization, which determines the linkage variable quantity of other parts by calculating the seam allowance increase quantity of a guest of convex belly type, and the template change is operated by means of clothing CAD software, so that the operation is convenient and efficient, the whole template generating process only needs less than 1 minute and is far lower than 60 minutes required by the traditional manual operation. The method takes the chest waist difference (namely 12 cm) of a standard A-type man as the base number of the change of the seam allowance, so that the seam allowance of a guest with different belly types is changed according to the difference of the chest waist difference, is not a quantitative ratio, but a changeable numerical value, and is suitable for the rapid generation of the suit pattern with the chest circumference larger than or smaller than the waist circumference. The invention quickly and effectively solves the problem of the plate shape change of the industrialized high-end customized convex belly type men western-style clothes, has higher practical value, and can improve the wearing comfort and the fit of the high-end customized convex belly type men western-style clothes while improving the manufacturing efficiency of the western-style clothes.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of a front panel, side panels and rear panel of the men's western-style clothes type in accordance with an embodiment;
in fig. 1, from left to right are a front panel, a side panel and a rear panel, respectively; the reference numbers in fig. 1 are: 1. the lower collar angle point, 2. lapel stop point, 3. upper belly dart point, 4. lower belly dart point, 5. front piece side seam bottom swing point, 6. side piece side seam middle waist point, 8. side piece swing seam middle waist point, 9. side piece swing seam bottom swing point, 10. rear piece swing seam upper opening point, 11. rear piece swing seam middle waist point, 12. rear piece swing seam bottom swing point, 13. side piece swing seam upper opening point, A. folding door line, B. chest dart line, C. lower seam line, D. side piece sleeve line, E. bottom side piece cycloid, F. rear piece bottom cycloid, G. upper flat line, H. chest circumferential line, I. middle waist line.
Detailed Description
The invention is described in further detail below with reference to the accompanying examples.
Taking a convex belly shape passenger with the height of 180cm as an example, the method for quickly generating the western style clothes template comprises the following steps:
(1) acquiring human body measurement data of a client with a belly shape, and recording chest circumference as B, waist circumference as W and chest-waist difference as BW, wherein B is 110 cm, W is 102 cm, and BW is B-W is 8 cm;
(2) calculating the added BW 'of the seam allowance of the bellied guest, wherein the BW' is calculated by the following formula: BW' ═ 0.15 × (12-BW) ═ 0.6 cm, where 12 in the formula represents the magnitude of the chest waist difference for a standard a size male;
(3) determining basic board type (the initial contour lines of the front piece, the side piece and the rear piece of the basic board type are shown as thin solid lines in figure 1) according to the human body measurement data of the belly type guest, and changing the board type on the basis of the basic board type by means of clothing CAD software:
taking the lower collar angle point 1 as a starting point, moving the lapel dead point 2 leftwards by 0.6 cm, moving the lower seam allowance line C leftwards in parallel by 0.6 cm, moving the lower collar angle point 1 upwards by 0.15 cm, and moving the folding door line A leftwards by 0.6 cm;
moving the chest dart line B parallel to the left by 0.3 cm, moving the upper belly dart point 3 upwards by 0.36 cm, and moving the side seam bottom hem point 5 of the front piece left by 0.3 cm by taking the lower belly dart point 4 as a starting point;
the side piece armhole line D is shifted to the right by 0.3 cm by taking the side piece side seam middle waist point 6 and the side piece side seam swing middle waist point 8 as starting points; taking the upper opening point 13 of the side piece swing seam as a starting point, moving the middle waist point 8 of the side piece swing seam leftwards by 0.3 cm, moving the bottom swing point 9 of the side piece swing seam leftwards by 0.15 cm, and moving the side piece bottom cycloid E upwards by 0.36 cm in parallel;
the western-style clothes pattern of the belly-protruding body guest is formed by taking the upper opening point 10 of the back piece swing seam as a starting point, moving the middle waist point 11 of the back piece swing seam to the right by 0.3 cm, moving the bottom swing point 12 of the back piece swing seam to the right by 0.15 cm and moving the bottom cycloid F of the back piece swing seam upwards by 0.36 cm in parallel.
In fig. 1, the dotted line is a contour obtained by changing each line and point on the basis of the initial contour line of the basic plate pattern for the bulge type.

Claims (1)

1. A rapid generation method of male western-style clothes pattern of convex belly type based on high-end customization is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) acquiring human body measurement data of a client with a belly shape, and recording chest circumference as B, waist circumference as W and chest-waist difference as BW, wherein the BW is B-W, and the units of B, W and BW are centimeters;
(2) calculating the added BW 'of the seam allowance of the bellied guest, wherein the BW' is calculated by the following formula: BW '═ 0.15 × (12-BW), where 12 in the formula represents the chest and waist difference size for a standard a size male, BW' in centimeters;
(3) determining a basic pattern according to the human body measurement data of the belly type guest, and changing the pattern on the basis of the basic pattern by means of clothing CAD software:
taking the lower collar corner point as a starting point, moving the lapel dead point to the left by 100% BW ', moving the lower seam line to the left by 100% BW', moving the lower collar corner point to the left by 25% BW ', and moving the folding door line to the left by 100% BW';
moving the chest dart line to the left by 50% BW ' in parallel, moving the upper belly dart point to the upper 60% BW ', taking the lower belly dart point as a starting point, and moving the side seam bottom swing point of the front piece to the left by 50% BW ';
shifting the side panel armhole line to the right by 50 percent BW' by taking the side panel side seam middle waist point and the side panel side seam middle waist point as starting points; taking the upper opening point of the side piece swing seam as a starting point, moving the waist point in the side piece swing seam to the left by 50% BW ', moving the bottom swing point of the side piece swing seam to the left by 25% BW ', and moving the side piece bottom cycloid upwards by 60% BW ' in parallel;
the upper opening point of the back piece swing seam is used as a starting point, the middle waist point of the back piece swing seam is moved rightwards by 50% BW ', the bottom swing point of the back piece swing seam is moved rightwards by 25% BW ', and the bottom cycloid of the back piece is moved upwards by 60% BW ' in parallel, thus the male western-style clothes with bellied body are produced.
CN201810781812.2A 2018-07-17 2018-07-17 High-end customized convex body type men western-style clothes pattern rapid generation method Active CN108936917B (en)

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CN105105398B (en) * 2015-08-11 2016-07-13 白雪彬 A kind of method obtaining ready-made clothes sized data based on basis size
CN207383557U (en) * 2017-10-20 2018-05-22 重庆段氏服饰实业有限公司 Bulging body western-style clothes

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Effective date of registration: 20220801

Address after: 315153 No. 2, West Yinxian Avenue, Haishu District, Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province

Patentee after: NINGBO YOUNGOR YINGCHENG UNIFORM Co.,Ltd.

Patentee after: NINGBO YAGEER GARMENTS Co.,Ltd.

Address before: 315153 No. 2, West Yinxian Avenue, Haishu District, Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province

Patentee before: NINGBO YOUNGOR YINGCHENG UNIFORM Co.,Ltd.