NL2022419B1

NL2022419B1 - Method for grading a semi-tailored line of women's clothing

Info

Publication number: NL2022419B1
Application number: NL2022419A
Authority: NL
Inventors: Vermeulen Edouard
Original assignee: Natan Nv
Priority date: 2018-01-18
Filing date: 2019-01-18
Publication date: 2019-10-24
Also published as: NL2022419A; BE1025943A1; LU101101A1; LU101101B1; BE1025943B1

Abstract

The current invention concerns a method for grading a garment in order to achieve different sizes of said garment, said sizes are chosen from a predetermined scale of sizes, whereby said garment will be made on the basis of a predefined pattern of a standard size, said standard size pattern is imputed or stored in a computer system and whereby said pattern correlates to body measurements for said standard size, whereby the body measurements are chosen from the group of width dimensions such as the bust contour and the waist contour for upper garments and waist contour and hip contour for lower garments, wherein during said grading said pattern is adapted to fit sizes which differ from said standard size, wherein said width dimensions are stepwise amended and wherein the size of the steps is between 3.5 cm and 6.5 cm per size.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

The invention pertains to the technical field of methods for grading of garment patterns wherein a pattern of a specific size of a garment is used as input into a system and a number of measurement points is indicated in said pattern.

BACKGROUND

The problem of getting clothing to fit well without requiring custom tailoring has been an elusive goal in the garment and clothing pattern industries for decades. Extensive statistical studies have been undertaken with the aim of developing sets of standard sizes that will fit the majority of the population.

Typically, a prior art pattern used in the construction of clothing is generated in a number of steps. First, a skilled designer sketches a new design, this design is then translated into a pattern in a standard size by the pattern maker. The pattern is subsequently tested: a test garment using the pattern is fitted on mannequins and models. Once the designer approves the final realization of the design, the pattern pieces are graded. This may be done by hand or with the use of a computerized grading system. This results in a set of sizes that are supposed to fit the majority of the population. However, because of the statistical approach used, only individuals with predominantly average measurements will indeed have a good fit.

There are a number of inefficiencies with these processes that affect both manufacturers as retailers. These include but are not limited to high labor costs and poor fit. International research indicates that approximately 70% of all women do not feel that they get a satisfactory fit from standard sizes which are offered in most shops.

In contrast to tailor-made clothes that are made to the unique shape of the wearer's body, ready-made clothes offer a number of disadvantages. In addition to grading being performed in function of average measurements resulting in a poor fit, they are mass produced and lack a unique character. In addition, they are often not manufactured using quality materials.

The current invention aims to provide a solution to at least some of the above mentioned problems or disadvantages.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a method for grading garment patterns as described in claim 0. More specifically the invention concerns a method provided for grading a garment in order to achieve different sizes of said garment, said sizes are chosen from a predetermined scale of sizes, whereby said garment will be made on the basis of a predefined pattern of a standard size, said standard size pattern is imputed or stored in a computer system and whereby said pattern correlates to body measurements for said standard size, whereby the body measurements are chosen from the group of width dimensions such as the bust contour and the waist contour for upper garments and hip contour for lower garments, wherein during said grading said pattern is adapted to fit sizes which differ from said standard size, characterized in that said width dimensions are stepwise amended and wherein the size of the steps is between 3.5 cm and 6.5 cm per size. Accordingly, and in a second aspect, the invention provides a series of patterns for one garment in two or more different sizes, obtained using a method as described. This method ensures a better garment fit for a subpopulation of Belgian, French and Dutch women with an age above 35 years old.

In a further aspect, the invention provides semi-tailored garments and a method for making those garments using a method for grading a garment as described above. Semi-tailored refers to garments that are produced based on a standard pattern that has been accordingly graded in such a way that it is predestined to fit a certain type of body morphology or posture. In the case of the current invention, the resulting semi-tailored garments are well suited, in particular, for women that have a rectangular body shape, and a specific posture. This morphology-posture combination is most frequent for west-European women above 35 years old. The grading method thus results in garments that are predestined to fit a specific population of women that would otherwise not be well fitted in garments produced using grading methods of the prior art.

In particular the current invention is defined by the following, not limitative embodiments.

1. A method for grading a garment in order to achieve different sizes of said garment, said sizes are chosen from a predetermined scale of sizes, whereby said garment will be made on the basis of a predefined pattern of a standard size, said standard size pattern is imputed or stored in a computer system and whereby said pattern correlates to body measurements for said standard size, whereby the body measurements are chosen from the group of width dimensions such as the bust contour and the waist contour for upper garments and waist contour and hip contour for lower garments, wherein during said grading said pattern is adapted to fit sizes which differ from said standard size, characterized in that said width dimensions are stepwise amended and wherein the size of the steps is between 3.5 cm and 6.5 cm per size.

2. Method according to previous embodiment 1, characterized in that one or more additional measurements are chosen from the group of the cross-front, the cross-back, the bust height, the front shoulder to waist, the armhole depth and the back width for upper garments and the rise, the inseam and the side length for lower garments whereby said additional measurements are stepwise amended and wherein the size of the steps is between 0.3 cm and 1 cm per size.

3. Method according to any of the preceding embodiments, characterized in that said pattern comprises reference points, and whereby during said grading the position of said reference points is amended in a lateral direction towards a novel position based on the body measures.

4. Method according to any of the preceding embodiments, characterized in that said stepwise amendment is performed automatically by an associated computer system.

5. Method according to any of the preceding embodiments, characterized in that said standard size is a size 38.

6. Method according to any of the preceding embodiments, characterized in that said different sizes of said garment are chosen from the group of sizes comprising: 36, 40, 42, 44 and 46.

7. A series of patterns for one garment in two or more different sizes, characterized in that the series of patterns are obtained using a method as described in any of the preceding embodiments.

8. Method for making semi-tailored garments using a method for grading a garment according to any one of preceding embodiments 1-6.

9. Method for making semi-tailored garments according to embodiment 8, wherein the garment is fitted at size 38 and the pattern is corrected accordingly, prior to grading.

10. Method for making semi-tailored garments according to embodiments 8-9, wherein the garment is fitted at size 44 and the pattern is corrected accordingly after grading.

11. Method for making semi-tailored garments according to embodiments 8-10, wherein the garments are produced with a seam allowance size between 1 cm and 3 cm.

12. Method for making semi-tailored garments according to embodiments 8-11 wherein the garments are produced with a stitching of 3 stitches per cm.

13. A semi-tailored garment characterized in that said garment is made using a method according to any one of embodiments 8-12.

14. The semi-tailored garment according to embodiment 13, wherein said garment is any of the following: trousers, dress, skirt, jacket, coat, blouse, shirt, sweater cardigan or a pull-over.

15. The semi-tailored garment according to any one of embodiments 13-14, wherein said garment comprises one or more stretchable fabrics, non-stretchable fabrics, knitwear, leather or a combination thereof.

DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

Figure 1 illustrates a female body.

Figure 2 illustrates the grading of a garment according to an embodiment of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all terms used in disclosing the invention, including technical and scientific terms, have the meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. By means of further guidance, term definitions are included to better appreciate the teaching of the present invention.

As used herein, the following terms have the following meanings:

A, an, and the as used herein refers to both singular and plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. By way of example, a compartment refers to one or more than one compartment.

About as used herein referring to a measurable value such as a parameter, an amount, a temporal duration, and the like, is meant to encompass variations of +/20% or less, preferably +/-10% or less, more preferably +/-5% or less, even more preferably +/-1% or less, and still more preferably +/-0.1% or less of and from the specified value, in so far such variations are appropriate to perform in the disclosed invention. However, it is to be understood that the value to which the modifier about refers is itself also specifically disclosed.

Comprise, comprising, and comprises and comprised of as used herein are synonymous with include, including, includes or contain, containing, contains and are inclusive or open-ended terms that specifies the presence of what follows e.g. component and do not exclude or preclude the presence of additional, non-recited components, features, element, members, steps, known in the art or disclosed therein.

The recitation of numerical ranges by endpoints includes all numbers and fractions subsumed within that range, as well as the recited endpoints.

Pattern or garment grading is the process of obtaining different sizes, larger or smaller, based on a predefined standard size using a size specification sheet or grading steps. These grading steps include both increments and decrements and can be performed manually or digitally. Grading results in a group of patterns or garments, that are different in size but similar in shape and proportions to the standard size.

Garment size refers to the label sizes used for garments. There are a large number of standard sizing systems around the world resulting in different scales of sizes. Although the sizing system does not affect its embodiment, the current invention is described here using the French sizing system for women's clothing. Accordingly, the invention relates to the scale of sizes comprising sizes: 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58 and 60.

The term bust contour is used to describe the maximum horizontal circumference measured during normal breathing with the subject standing erect and the tapemeasure passed horizontally, under the armpits, and across the bust prominence, preferably measured with moderate tension over a brassiere that shall not deform the breast in an unnatural way and shall not displace its volume.

The term waist contour refers to the circumference of the natural waistline between the top of the hip bones (iliac crests) and the lower ribs, measured with the subject breathing normally and standing erect with the abdomen relaxed.

The term hip contour refers to the horizontal circumference measured round the buttocks at the level of maximum circumference.

The term cross-back refers to a body measurement that refers is the distance between the top outside edge of one shoulder and the other top outside edge of the other shoulder, measured over the back of the subject with the subject breathing normally and standing erect with the abdomen relaxed.

The term cross-front refers to a body measurement that is the distance between the places where the arms meet the side of the body, measured horizontally over the chest at a height above the top bra band of the female subject.

The term bust height refers to a body measurement that is the distance measured vertically from the middle of the shoulder to the nipple of the female subject.

The term front shoulder to waist refers to a body measurement that is the distance measured vertically from the middle of the shoulder to the waist line of the female subject breathing normally and standing erect with the abdomen relaxed.

The term armhole depth refers to a body measurement that is the distance between the top outside edge of the shoulder to the armpit, measured down the back of the subject with the subject breathing normally and standing erect with the abdomen relaxed.

The term rise or crotch depth refers to a body measurement that is the distance between the waist and the crotch and is usually measured with the subject sitting down with a straight back and with the abdomen relaxed.

The term inseam or inside seam refers to a body measurement that is the distance between the crotch and the soles of the feet, measured in a straight vertical line with the subject erect, barefoot, feet slightly apart, and the weight of the body equally distributed on both legs.

The term side length refers to a body measurement that is the distance between the waistline and the floor when the subject is standing erect and barefoot with the abdomen relaxed and is measured along the side of the leg.

Within the context of this invention, the formulation specific population is not necessarily related to a national population, but more to a population which genetically is very close, i.e. where the body shapes only vary a little. Such a population may be part of a population in a country of may be spread over a plurality of countries. A specific population may also refer to a population that due to their lifestyle have similar body morphologies and posture.

In a first aspect, the invention provides a method for grading a garment in order to achieve different sizes of said garment, said sizes are chosen from a predetermined scale of sizes, whereby said garment will be made on the basis of a predefined pattern of a standard size, said standard size pattern is imputed or stored in a computer system and whereby said pattern correlates to body measurements for said standard size, whereby the body measurements are chosen from the group of width dimensions such as the bust contour and the waist contour for upper garments and hip contour for lower garments, wherein during said grading said pattern is adapted to fit sizes which differ from said standard size, characterized in that said width dimensions are stepwise amended and wherein the size of the steps is between 3.5 cm and 6.5 cm per size.

Statistical analysis of different populations has indicated that in particular the female body shape varies considerably. For example, British ladies tend to have more of a 'pear' shape compared to German ladies. In addition to ethnic variations, body shape is also strongly influenced by age. The basis of this method is a statistical distribution of specific body shapes within a specific subpopulation. The inventors have taken these variations into account, and have developed a method that is specifically suitable for Belgian, French and Dutch women with an age above 35 years old. The accordingly provided grading method, based on the stepwise amendment of the given measures of 3.5 cm to 6.5 cm between sizes ensures that at least 80% of this subpopulation will have clothes with an improved fit compared to the methods for grading provided today.

The ill-fitting feeling for the customer is particularly experienced when the widthlength ratio of the garment is different from that of the customer. The width-length ratio is correlated to the specific population and needs to be acknowledged to further improve the fitting of garments for the population of interest. Therefore, additional body measures including length measures are incorporated in the method, thus, in a preferred embodiment of the invention one or more additional measurements are chosen from the group of the cross-front, the cross-back, the bust height, the front shoulder to waist, the armhole depth and the back width for upper garments and the rise, the inseam and the side length for lower garments whereby said additional measurements are stepwise amended and wherein the size of the steps is between 0.3 cm and 1 cm per size.

In a further preferred embodiment the standard size pattern comprises reference points, and whereby during said grading the position of said reference points is amended in a lateral direction towards a novel position based on the body measures. These reference points are located on the contour lines of the patterns. In most cases, for each piece of garment, assembly of multiple parts is necessary, wherein each part corresponds to a single pattern piece. Reference points should thus be present on each single pattern piece. These reference points allow to fully reconstruct the particular contour line of the pattern leading to a specific shape and dimension. Whereas for some complicated garment models, a high number of reference points will be necessary in order to accurately reconstruct the original shape, other more simple models might only require a limited number of reference points to be comprised in the pattern. Additionally, internal reference points that are situated inside the contour lines of the pattern might be present to indicate internal structural features such as, but not limited to, pockets, buttons, buttonholes, decorative modifications and fold lines.

During grading, the position of the reference points is amended in a lateral direction towards a novel position based on the body measures. Preferably, the position of the reference points is recorded as a coordinate of points in a Cartesian coordinate system, to enable, in a further preferred embodiment, the stepwise amendment of the pattern to be performed automatically by an associated computer system. Computerized grading systems have been in use in the industry for several years and suitable software is known to the person skilled in the art. Possible software includes but is not limited to computer-aided design software such as 'Gemini CAD', 'eTelesia CAD', 'Fashion CAD', 'Assyst Bullmer' and many others.

According to the current invention, the preferred standard size pattern that is imputed or stored in a computer system and subsequently used to generate larger or smaller sizes of the garment or the corresponding pattern is a size 38. Although other sizes could also be used as the standard size, the inventors have found that making the original pattern in size 38 allows an optimal view on the esthetic aspects of the design. This size 38 serves as input to generate different sizes of the garment which are, preferably, chosen from the group of sizes comprising: 36, 40, 42, 44 and 46. Accordingly, the inventors have experienced that the method as described above is especially well suited to provide a series of patterns for a garment in two or more different sizes. Size 36 to 46 were selected as they are the sizes which fit the largest proportion of Belgian, French and Dutch women with an age above 35 years old.

Furthermore, the inventors have found that semi-tailored garments made using the abovementioned method for grading garments have a very good fit and offer the possibility to carry out small adaptations to the garment when fitted on the person.

While made-to-measure garments require the measurement of the subjects body measures and the adaptation of each pattern to the body measurements of the subject, the term semi-tailored refers to garments that are produced based on a standard pattern that has been accordingly graded in such a way that it is predestined to fit a certain type of body morphology or posture. In the case of the current invention, the resulting semi-tailored garments are well suited, in particular, for women that have a straight body shape, sometimes also called a rectangular or Fltype body shape in combination with a posture wherein the back is slightly twisted at the top and the shoulders are slightly inclined forward. An H-type body shape is a very frequent body shape type for west-European women above 35 years old and is characterized by a balanced hip and bust while the waist is not very well defined. In most cases the bottom of H-shaped women is also rather flat than round. The inventors have found that the stepwise amendments used in the grading method described above result in garments that are semi-tailored for women with this specific morphology and posture. Therefore, and in a third aspect, the invention provides a method for making semi-tailored garments using a method for grading a garment as described above.

In one embodiment the garment is fitted at size 38 and the pattern is corrected accordingly, prior to grading. This assures that the pattern is correct and that the garment produced using this pattern fits a subject form the particular subpopulation well. Introduction of this fitting step further allows to correct flaws in the pattern that might otherwise be looked over. Preferably, the same garment is fitted at size 44 and the pattern is corrected accordingly after grading. The inventors have noticed that at large sizes, such as 44 and higher, the pattern can be considerably ameliorated by fitting the garment at size 44 and correcting where necessary to achieve a smooth, comfortable and flattering fit.

These semi-tailored garments are, in a further embodiment, produced with a seam allowance size between 1 cm and 3 cm. This seam allowance is larger than what is used during the mass-production of garments, providing more room for adjustment after assembly. Accordingly, the adjustment that is made possible thanks to the larger seam allowance further contributes to a fit of similar quality to that of garments that are made-to-measure but with a much lower production cost.

In another further embodiment the garments are produced with a stitching of 3 stitches per cm. This is important because the number of stitches per cm has a direct influence on the seam strength, the seam appearance and the seam elasticity on stretch fabrics. The inventors have found that the best balance between seam strength and seam appearance is achieved using the abovementioned 3 stitches per cm.

In a last aspect the invention provides a semi-tailored garment characterized in that said garment is made using a method for making a semi-tailored garment as described above. Preferably, the garment is any of the following: trousers, a dress, a skirt, a jacket, a coat, a blouse, a shirt, a sweater cardigan or a pull-over. According to a further preferred embodiment, the garment comprises one or more stretchable fabrics, non-stretchable fabrics, knitwear, leather or a combination thereof. These fabrics or knitwear can be made of any desired natural or synthetic material. Natural materials include, but are not limited to, cotton, silk, wool or leather. Synthetic materials include, but are not limited to, polyester, polyamide, lycra and nylon.

Stretchable fabrics include, but are not limited to, fabrics containing lycra such as stretch satin, stretch velvet, stretch denim, cotton poplin stretch and faux leather.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

The invention is further described by the following non-limiting figures which further illustrate the invention, and are not intended to, nor should they be interpreted to, limit the scope of the invention.

Figure 1 illustrates a female body.

In Figure 1, a schematic illustration is shown of the body shape of a specific population of females. The basis of the method described in the current invention is a statistical distribution of specific body shapes within a specific subpopulation. The inventors have taken these variations into account, and have developed a method that is specifically suitable for Belgian, French and Dutch women with an age above 35 years old. These women, have a straight body shape, sometimes also called a rectangular or H-type body shape or morphology. As illustrated in the left panel of Figure 1, a rectangular or H-type body shape is characterized by a balanced hip and bust while the waist is not very well defined. In most cases the bottom of H-shaped women is also rather flat than round (not shown in figure). The middle and right panel of Figure 1 show the schematic illustration of the posture of a woman with a straight posture (middle panel) and of a woman with a posture wherein the back is slightly twisted at the top and the shoulders are slightly inclined forward (right panel). An H-type body shape in combination with a posture as described above is very frequent for west-European women above 35 years old. The invention is especially well suited for this specific population of women, resulting in better fitting garments.

Figure 2 shows a pattern for the back part of a garment. The method according to an embodiment of the invention was used for grading a garment comprising a pattern of the back part of the garment and achieving two additional sizes of said pattern (2,3). A pattern of standard size 38 (1), whose dimension correlate to body measurements of that size, was imputed in a computer system and grading was performed automatically by an associated computer system. During grading the pattern was adapted to fit sizes which differ from the predefined standard size, one size was bigger (2) than the standard size (1) and one size was smaller (3) than the standard size (1).

The standard size pattern (1) was provided with reference points (A-D) and during grading, the position of the reference points (A-D) was amended in a lateral position towards a novel position based on the corresponding body measures. Lines perpendicular to the pattern illustrate the movement of reference points (A-D). For the sake of clarity the pattern has been simplified and only a limited amount of detail is shown, as is the number of reference points.

In first instance the reference points that correlate with width dimensions such as the bust contour and waist contour were used for grading the pattern using stepwise amendment of the dimensions, wherein the size of the steps was between 3.5 cm and 6.5 cm. This results in the lateral displacement of the side edge of the pattern to create a pattern that will fit a person with a larger (2) or smaller (3) bust contour or waist contour.

In second instance, additional measurements, such as the armhole depth, the crossback and the back width were chosen and these measurements were stepwise amended with step sizes between 0.3 cm and 1 cm per size. Accordingly, the position of the reference points (A-D) was amended in a lateral direction towards a novel position based on these additional measurements.

The body measurements used in this illustrative example are given in Table 1.

Table 1. Body measurements used to grade the garment.

	Size
Body measurement	36	38	40
Bust	-X	88	+X
Waist	-X	72	+X
Hips	-X	96	+x
armhole depth	-Y	21	+Y
Cross-back	-Y	35	+Y
back width	-Y	38	+Y

Where X is 3.5 cm to 6.5 cm and Y is 0.3 cm to 1 cm.

Claims

CONCLUSIONS

A method of grading a garment to achieve different sizes of said garment, said sizes are selected from a predetermined scale of sizes, wherein said garment will be made based on a predefined pattern of a standard size, said pattern of a standard size is imputed or stored in a computer system and wherein said pattern correlates with body dimensions for said standard sizes, wherein the body dimensions are selected from the group of widths such as the bust contour and waist circumference for outerwear and waist circumference and hip circumference for lower garments, wherein during said layout said pattern is adapted to fit for sizes that differ from said standard size, characterized in that said width sizes are changed step by step and the size of the steps between

Method according to the preceding claim 1, characterized in that one or more additional dimensions are selected from the group of front shoulder width, rear shoulder width, chest height, front shoulder to waist, armhole depth and back width for outerwear and the crotch height, the inside leg length and the side length for lower garments where said additional dimensions are changed step by step and where the size of the steps is between 0.3 cm and 1 cm per size.

Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said pattern comprises reference points, and wherein during said classification the position of said reference points in a lateral direction is changed in the direction of a new position based on the body dimensions.

3.5 cm and 6.5 cm per size.

Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said stepwise change is carried out automatically by an associated computer system.

15. The semi-tailored garment according to any of claims 13-

Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the standard size is a size 38.

Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the different sizes of said item of clothing are selected from the group of sizes comprising: 36, 40, 42, 44 and 46.

A set of patterns for one item of clothing in two or more different sizes, characterized in that the set of patterns is obtained by a method as described in any one of the preceding claims.

A method for making semi-tailored garments using a method for grading a garment according to any of the preceding claims 1-6.

The method for making semi-tailor-made garments according to claim 8, wherein the garment is adjusted to size 38 and the pattern is correspondingly corrected, prior to classification.

The method for making semi-tailored garments according to claims 8-9, wherein the garment is adjusted to size 44 and the pattern is correspondingly corrected after classification.

A method for making semi-tailored garments according to claims 8-10, wherein the garments are produced with a seam allowance between 1 cm and 3 cm.

12.

The semi-tailored garment of claim 13, wherein the garment is one of the following: pants, a dress, a skirt, a cardigan, a jacket, a blouse, a shirt, a pullover or a pull-over.

A method for making semi-tailored garments according to claims 8-11, wherein the garments are produced with a stitching of 3 stitches per cm.

A semi-tailored garment, characterized in that the garment is made by a method according to any of claims 8-

14, wherein the garment comprises one or more stretchable fabrics, non-stretchable fabrics, knitwear, leather or a combination thereof.

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METHOD FOR GRADING A SEMI-TAILORED LINE OR WOMEN'S CLOTHING