CN2746778Y - Pattern plate for structure of Chinese style clothes-Tangzhuang - Google Patents
Pattern plate for structure of Chinese style clothes-Tangzhuang Download PDFInfo
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- CN2746778Y CN2746778Y CN 200420036947 CN200420036947U CN2746778Y CN 2746778 Y CN2746778 Y CN 2746778Y CN 200420036947 CN200420036947 CN 200420036947 CN 200420036947 U CN200420036947 U CN 200420036947U CN 2746778 Y CN2746778 Y CN 2746778Y
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- tangzhuang
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Abstract
The utility model provides a pattern plate for structure of Chinese style clothes-Tangzhuang, which increases the opening degree of front edge of the front cloth piece and the lower sect opening degree of front edge of the front cloth piece, raises the degree of springing up on the bottom sweep of the front cloth piece, adds the pen degree of side seams of front and after cloth pieces, makes sure the chest around proportional distribution of the front and after cloth pieces, readjusts and increases the data of horizontal opening collar, and controls the number values of the differences of sizes of front and after cloth pieces, etc. The Chinese style clothes-Tangzhuang manufactured by the pattern plate for structure of Chinese style clothes-Tangzhuang provided by the utility model can not receive a dart and wrinkle, and the front cloth piece doesn't receive a dart, doesn't wrinkle and doesn't operate and the after cloth piece is allowed with wood joints of back seam while not receive a dart and not wrinkle, in the condition that whatever the differences in sizes of all the formats of men's cloth are and however big the abdomen circumferences are. The clothes manufactured by this pattern plate especially are suitable for wearing in special occasions, personalizing the taste and goodliness ofregarding dress.
Description
Technical field
The utility model designs a kind of apparel construction making sheet, the particularly structure making sheet of Tang style clothing in the Chinese-fashion garments.
Background technology
Traditional Chinese costume has different separately culture backgrounds with the west clothes, no matter is to make from the moulding of outward appearance style or immanent structure plate-making and technology to analyze contrast, and tangible different difference is all arranged.The style of traditional Chinese costume and structure all are to belong to the two dimensional surface moulding basically, and what emphasize is loose and thick silk floss.West clothes fashion and structure then great majority belong to three-dimensional stereo moulding, and outstanding is zoarium and lines.Simultaneously, according to the convention that traditional Chinese costume is handed down always, garment piece especially front cut pieces generally is not allow careless the receipts to economize pleating or operate on.Therefore, the lithographic structure of Tang style clothing also must be followed this convention, keeps the integrality of traditional Chinese costume garment piece lithographic structure as far as possible.
Yet two parts of shoulder in the traditional Chinese costume and sleeve always are indivisible, so its forward and backward garment piece structure is also conjuncted each other and unite two into one.Relatively unfold though wear, it is so not attractive in appearance that some position seems, as shoulder and armhole oxter.Modern clothing then is placed on suitable extrusion position attractive in appearance, and what emphasize is apparel modeling and body curve's perfect adaptation.Adopting dress sleeve structure technology at shoulder and sleeve position, is a kind of innovation of modern clothing moulding to the traditional dress moulding.The armhole and the sleeve of dress sleeve structure technology are in strict accordance with human body armpit and arm shaped design, finally are through human body and can seem docile fit on one's body.With the elite partial fusion of Chinese and western clothes together, also be that Tang style clothing carry out a key point in the lithographic structure technology how.
In Tang style clothing lithographic structure process, found simultaneously the problem that some special types bring again, for example tripe encloses big specification and how to carry out lithographic structure.According to present common processing method, generally all be to increase income province position, pleating or operate on combination at some position of front cut pieces, for example increase income tripe province, oxter province etc.If adopt such processing method, it is easily to be resolved that tripe encloses big problem, but can imagine that the moulding of whole Tang style clothing will become nondescript even changed beyond recognition.
This just need be in Tang style clothing lithographic structure technical scheme, and is as much as possible compatible and managed to embody the part intension of Chinese and western clothing design.Outstanding traditional dress characteristic---stand-up collar, Chinese-style jacket with buttons down the front and dish are buckled, draw the elite of modern clothing---dress is tucked inside the sleeve; And tripe encloses the difficult problem how big size carries out the lithographic structure design from theory and practice solution special type, accomplish not receive in the whole Tang style clothing province and do not make a call to a pleat, the simple and unsophisticated glamour that had both kept traditional Chinese costume garment piece integrality has been innovated the fashion theory that Tang style clothing grow with each passing hour again.Because existing traditional dress lithographic structure is a blank for the lithographic structure research of special type aspect substantially, does not more have ready-made reference or material object.
The utility model content
Technical problem to be solved in the utility model provides a kind ofly can be made whole Tang style clothing and not receive a province, do not make a call to a pleat lithographic structure, make how difference of all man's specifications, how big tripe is with, front cut pieces is not received province, phozy, is not operated on, and rear garment piece allows the dorsal suture piece but also do not receive province, phozy.
In order to realize the foregoing invention purpose, the Tang style clothing lithographic structure that the utility model provides, strengthen the front cut pieces front edge and split an amount, increase front cut pieces front edge hypomere and split an amount, improve front cut pieces lap portion rising quantity, garment piece side seam degree of enclosing is determined forward and backward garment piece chest measurement pro rate before and after placing, readjust and strengthen horizontal open-neck collar data, control forward and backward garment piece length size difference numerical value etc.
Whole Tang style clothing of the Tang style clothing that the Tang style clothing lithographic structure that the utility model provides is made are not received a province, are not made a call to a pleat lithographic structure, make all men's clothing specifications no matter how difference arranged, how big tripe is with, front cut pieces is not received province, phozy, is not operated on, rear garment piece allows the dorsal suture piece but does not also receive province, phozy, be particularly suitable as the wearing of great occasion, embody and pay attention to the generous, attractive in appearance of clothes.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is the Tang style clothing style figure that the utility model provides.
Fig. 2 is the plate-making of Tang style clothing basic structure.
Fig. 3 is a Tang style clothing special type lithographic structure.
The specific embodiment
Referring to Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, the utility model embodiment is the structure making sheet that is used for the Tang style clothing of calendar year 2001 the APEC meeting, and it is made in the following way:
1. increment strengthens the front cut pieces front edge and splits an amount
This is to have used for reference the principle that Chinese tunic suit front edge is split door, and (neckline is between the waist joint) increment strengthens an amount of splitting promptly at front cut pieces front edge place.Tang style clothing basic structure plate-making is split an amount and is remained on about 2cm, and to split an amount basic identical with Chinese tunic suit front edge.Consider that then increment strengthens an amount of splitting but enclose big person for tripe, all tripes enclose and surpass certain numerical value, just need to increase split an amount 0.5cm, and the big tripe person of enclosing splits an amount and can reach about 3.5cm.
2. increase front cut pieces front edge hypomere and split an amount
Increase an amount of splitting of front cut pieces front edge hypomere, both solved the loose degree that tripe encloses large part, can prevent that the issuable seam of left front hypomere from stirring phenomenons such as lid is overlapping simultaneously again.But splitting an amount and can not arbitrarily infinitely strengthening of front cut pieces front edge hypomere generally is controlled at about 1-1.8cm and is advisable.
3. improve front cut pieces lap portion rising quantity
Improved the rising quantity of front cut pieces lap portion in the Tang style clothing lithographic structure technology, rising quantity at this moment is a fixed number and must be a parameter just not only, and the base region of parameter is controlled between the 2-7cm.Certainly, measure maximum 7cm if warp, then wherein 2cm must be increased within the long scope of clothing of lap portion, to satisfy the needs that tripe encloses big build person.
4. garment piece side seam degree of enclosing before and after placing
Owing to improved the rising quantity of front cut pieces lap portion, garment piece side seam degree of enclosing before and after chain reaction must place.Placing side seam degree of enclosing mainly is to improve the contradiction that the side seam place tripe that is produced behind the bottom rising quantity encloses quantity not sufficient in order to satisfy, and this also is to solve tripe to enclose one of important technical of big build person.But side seam places degree of enclosing can not be excessive, and general side seam tripe encloses behind place's measurement size and to enclose dead size by tripe and place 6-8cm and be advisable.Tripe encloses big build person, and general hip circumference can be very not big, encloses and spends greatly if place side seam, and the bottom will produce the wave phenomenon.Though also some tripe encloses big build person tripe and encloses greatlyyer, hip circumference is smaller on the contrary, so side seam just can not arbitrarily amplify, because the little person's tripe of hip circumference does not have thing to support below enclosing, side seam amplifies the back lap portion and more is easy to generate wave.Therefore placing side seam degree of enclosing must easily suit the remedy to the case because of the people: (1) tripe encloses greatly, the big build person of hip circumference, and forward and backward garment piece side seam degree of enclosing can amplify simultaneously, and a little emits 0.5-1cm with the rear garment piece dorsal suture.(2) tripe enclose greatly, hip circumference small body type person, it is the same with hip circumference that side seam degree of enclosing can keep; Perhaps front cut pieces side seam girth size is motionless substantially, and the size that should place is put on the rear garment piece.
5. determine forward and backward garment piece chest measurement pro rate
Because tripe encloses the general human body anterior part of chest of big build person and belly is loose even very loose, it is comparatively smooth that the back then seems, tripe encloses big build person two hand majorities towards rear-inclined simultaneously.Therefore must redefine the pro rate of forward and backward garment piece chest measurement, promptly front cut pieces chest measurement and the tripe ratio of enclosing is wanted obvious ratio greater than rear garment piece.Characteristics according to tripe encloses big build person can adopt 1/4 proportionate allocation, and distribute the data of adjusting forward and backward garment piece by plus-minus 3cm, enclose big build person's needs at the part tripe, and the plus-minus amplitude of forward and backward garment piece chest measurement can be controlled between the 3.5-4.5cm.
6. adjust and strengthen horizontal open-neck collar data
The collar of Tang style clothing is typical traditional stand-up collar styles, and tripe encloses big build person must split an adjustment of amount data along with front edge, the straight horizontal open-neck collar data of corresponding adjustment, and this also is to solve tripe to enclose one of method of big problem.Split an amount owing to having strengthened, make the horizontal open-neck collar of front cut pieces also must readjust and corresponding shifting out, can also increase the numerical value of horizontal open-neck collar simultaneously a little, generally grasp in the 0.3-0.8cm scope at front cut pieces front edge place.
7. control forward and backward garment piece length size difference numerical value
The forward and backward garment piece length of normal type person size difference numerical value generally has only about 2cm, and that tripe encloses big build person's forward and backward garment piece length values of disparity is very big.From repeatedly practising the result, the 3-4cm values of disparity can only be calculated general tripe and enclose big build, and the tripe that 6-7cm (extremely indivedual even also have 8-10cm) values of disparity just can deserve to be called on the just sincere justice encloses big build.Reasonably control and definite front and back garment piece length size difference data, this point is related to the visual effect of whole the long balance of Tang style clothing front and back clothing.
Referring to Fig. 1, its style is characterized as again:
Neck type: Chinese style stand-up collar, neckline edge look rolling.
Sleeve type: two-chip type dress sleeve type long sleeves.
Garment piece: the preceding hem do not have folded door for edge look rolling Chinese-style jacket with buttons down the front, and right flap lattice are equipped with one of UNDER FLY bar, preceding hem binding one row seven secondary grape head pin knobs, lap portion corner.Establish dorsal suture in the back, two sides, left and right sides latasuture hypomere is driven the pendulum fork.Referring to Fig. 2, the setting specification of Tang style clothing basic structure plate-making sees the following form:
Unit: cm
| Number type | The position | Clothing is long | Chest measurement | Neck encloses | Shoulder breadth | Sleeve length |
| 170/88A | Specification | 75 | 108 | 47 | 46 | 61 |
Certainly, for those of ordinary skill in the art, Tang style clothing lithographic structure of the present utility model can be done the variation of multiple structural similarity, and still, this similar variation and structure are still in the protection domain of appending claims.
Claims (1)
1. Tang style clothing lithographic structure, it is characterized in that: it is 2.5-3.5CM that its front cut pieces front edge is split an amount; It is 1-1.8CM that front cut pieces front edge hypomere is split an amount; Front cut pieces lap portion rising quantity is 2-7CM; Front and back garment piece side seam degree of enclosing is 6-8CM; Forward and backward garment piece chest measurement ratio is assigned as 1/4 plus-minus 3.5-4.5CM; Horizontal open-neck collar data are 0.3-0.8CM; Forward and backward garment piece length size difference numerical value is 2-7CM.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 200420036947 CN2746778Y (en) | 2004-06-29 | 2004-06-29 | Pattern plate for structure of Chinese style clothes-Tangzhuang |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 200420036947 CN2746778Y (en) | 2004-06-29 | 2004-06-29 | Pattern plate for structure of Chinese style clothes-Tangzhuang |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN2746778Y true CN2746778Y (en) | 2005-12-21 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 200420036947 Expired - Fee Related CN2746778Y (en) | 2004-06-29 | 2004-06-29 | Pattern plate for structure of Chinese style clothes-Tangzhuang |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
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| CN (1) | CN2746778Y (en) |
Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101258950B (en) * | 2008-04-14 | 2011-06-15 | 上海市服装研究所 | Tang style clothing manufacturing method |
| CN101744396B (en) * | 2009-12-24 | 2012-02-22 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Sewing method for preventing front fly facing of lap of dress from reversely curling |
| CN103462283A (en) * | 2013-09-04 | 2013-12-25 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Platemaking method for processing big abdomen body |
| CN106360812A (en) * | 2016-11-22 | 2017-02-01 | 黎明职业大学 | Tang style blouse and method for making Tang style blouse |
| CN107594667A (en) * | 2017-10-26 | 2018-01-19 | 俞益波 | A kind of Western-style trousers, which are received to save and return, pulls out trousers piece preparation method |
| CN112841787A (en) * | 2021-01-15 | 2021-05-28 | 西京学院 | Fishbone frame for Zhongshan decoration and drawing method |
-
2004
- 2004-06-29 CN CN 200420036947 patent/CN2746778Y/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101258950B (en) * | 2008-04-14 | 2011-06-15 | 上海市服装研究所 | Tang style clothing manufacturing method |
| CN101744396B (en) * | 2009-12-24 | 2012-02-22 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Sewing method for preventing front fly facing of lap of dress from reversely curling |
| CN103462283A (en) * | 2013-09-04 | 2013-12-25 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Platemaking method for processing big abdomen body |
| CN103462283B (en) * | 2013-09-04 | 2015-06-03 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Platemaking method for processing big abdomen body |
| CN106360812A (en) * | 2016-11-22 | 2017-02-01 | 黎明职业大学 | Tang style blouse and method for making Tang style blouse |
| CN107594667A (en) * | 2017-10-26 | 2018-01-19 | 俞益波 | A kind of Western-style trousers, which are received to save and return, pulls out trousers piece preparation method |
| CN112841787A (en) * | 2021-01-15 | 2021-05-28 | 西京学院 | Fishbone frame for Zhongshan decoration and drawing method |
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| C14 | Grant of patent or utility model | ||
| GR01 | Patent grant | ||
| C19 | Lapse of patent right due to non-payment of the annual fee | ||
| CF01 | Termination of patent right due to non-payment of annual fee |