CN111543718B

CN111543718B - Method for determining sleeve hill eating distribution of clothes

Info

Publication number: CN111543718B
Application number: CN202010441503.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 郭淑华; 袁红萍; 颜丽婷; 李蔚; 王佳
Original assignee: Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment
Current assignee: Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment
Priority date: 2020-05-22
Filing date: 2020-05-22
Publication date: 2022-06-03
Anticipated expiration: 2040-05-22
Also published as: CN111543718A

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for determining sleeve hill eating tendency distribution of clothes, which comprises the following specific steps: 1. determining the front armhole arc length, the rear armhole arc length and the sleeve top arc length; 2. determining the eating tendency of the sleeve mountains; 3. the distribution of the sleeve-hill-eating tendency is determined, which comprises the distribution process of the total sleeve-hill-eating tendency and the distribution process of the sleeve-hill-eating tendency refinement. The method has the advantages of less overall steps, simplicity and easy operation, is more scientific and reasonable compared with the traditional sleeve mountain eating tendency determining method, reduces the uncertainty of the selection of the sleeve mountain eating tendency in the position and the distribution of the amount of the sleeve mountain eating tendency in the process of manufacturing the garment, can effectively improve the process quality and the manufacturing efficiency, and is suitable for popularization and use in mass garment production and advanced customization.

Description

Method for determining sleeve hill eating distribution of clothes

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of garment processing, in particular to a method for determining sleeve hill draft distribution of a garment.

Background

The sleeves are important constituent parts of the coat and have good functionality and aesthetic property, in the process of making the coat, the armhole arc line of the coat body is sewed with the armhole arc line of the armhole, but the armhole arc length is not completely equal to the armhole arc length, but is slightly longer than the armhole arc length, and the difference value of the armhole arc length and the armhole arc length is the appetite of the armhole when the sleeves are installed. A technological process for making planar fabric suitable for stereo human body features that the excessive material is uniformly eaten at the position to be sewed and then is subjected to wet-hot plastic treatment. However, unreasonable sleeve mountain eating tendency can influence the overall appearance and shape of the coat, and the problem of how to make the sleeves eat reasonably, smoothly and naturally in sleeve mountain, smoothly and straightly in silk locks and climb back and forth is always a difficult problem for technologists to study.

When the garment is manufactured in a specific process, particularly in advanced customization, the traditional sleeve mountain eating tendency distribution is fuzzy, random and uncertain, so that the plumpness of the sleeve mountain is not enough after the sleeve and the garment body are sewed, the shape of the sleeve mountain is not perfect, and the integral appearance aesthetic feeling of the garment is influenced.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the problems in the prior art, the invention provides the method for determining the sleeve mountain eating tendency distribution of the garment, which has the advantages of simple process and easy operation, reduces the uncertainty of the sleeve mountain eating tendency distribution, ensures the process quality and ensures the integral aesthetic degree of the garment.

The invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a method for determining the distribution of sleeve hill eating tendency of clothes specifically comprises the following operation steps:

(1) determining the front armhole arc length, the rear armhole arc length and the sleeve top arc length:

measuring the length of a rear armhole arc line A-G, the length of a front armhole arc line F-G 'and the length of an arm hole arc line G-G';

(2) determining the eating tendency of the sleeve mountains:

taking G as a starting point, measuring an arc G-a with the length equal to that of a rear armhole arc A-G on the armhole arc, taking G ' as a starting point, measuring an arc G ' -F with the length equal to that of a front armhole arc F-G ' on the armhole arc, wherein the length of the arc a-F is the armhole eating vigor;

(3) determining the distribution of the sleeve hill eating tendency: firstly, the overall distribution process of the sleeve-hill-eating tendency is carried out, and then the detailed distribution of the sleeve-hill-eating tendency is carried out.

Further, in the step (3), the overall distribution scheme of the sleeve mountain eating tendency is as follows:

the lengths of the arc lines a-f are golden, H is a division point, 60% of the eating tendency, namely the length of the arc line a-H, is allocated to the rear sleeve top arc line G-a, and 40% of the eating tendency, namely the length of the arc line f-H, is allocated to the front sleeve top arc line G' -f.

Further, in the step (3), the sleeve mountain eating force refinement allocation scheme comprises allocation of rear sleeve mountain eating force and allocation of front sleeve mountain eating force, wherein,

the distribution scheme of the eating tendency of the rear sleeve mountain is as follows: trisecting the rear armhole arc A-G to obtain an arc A-B, B-C, C-G, trisecting the arc G-a to obtain arcs a-B, B-C and C-G, wherein the length of the arc A-B is equal to that of the arc a-B, the length of the arc B-C is equal to that of the arc B-C, and the length of the arc C-G is equal to that of the arc C-G; the length distribution scheme of the sleeve mountain eating force of the arc line at the section a-H is that the distribution eating force at the section a-b is 25%, the distribution eating force at the section b-c is 25% and the distribution eating force at the section c-G is 10%;

the distribution scheme of the eating tendency of the front sleeve mountain is as follows: taking an arc F-E with the same length as the section A-B on the front armhole arc line, taking an arc E-D with the same length as the section B-C on the rear armhole arc line, and correspondingly taking an arc F-E with the same length as the arc F-E and an arc E-D with the same length as the arc E-D on the armhole arc line, wherein the armhole draft of the H-F arc line is distributed according to the length distribution scheme that 25% of draft is distributed at the F-E part, 10% of draft is distributed at the E-D part, and 5% of draft is distributed at the D-G' part.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

the method for determining the distribution of the sleeve-hill eating tendency of the garment has the advantages of simple overall process and strong operability, determines the sleeve-hill eating tendency by depending on the difference value between the total length of the front sleeve arc line and the rear sleeve arc line and the sleeve-hill arc line, further obtains the refinement scheme of the distribution of the sleeve-hill eating tendency, is more scientific and reasonable compared with the traditional method for determining the sleeve-hill eating tendency, is easy to implement, reduces the uncertainty of the selection of the position and the distribution of the amount of the sleeve-hill eating tendency in the process of manufacturing the garment, can effectively improve the process quality and the manufacturing efficiency, and is suitable for being popularized and used in mass garment production and advanced customization.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a sleeve-top draft distribution of a garment;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an arc structure of armholes of front and rear garment pieces;

FIG. 3 is a schematic structural view of an armhole arc;

wherein, 1-rear armhole arc, 2-front armhole arc and 3-armhole arc.

Detailed Description

The following detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the present invention, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, will make the advantages and features of the invention easier to understand by those skilled in the art, and thus will clearly and clearly define the scope of the invention.

In order to improve the certainty of the sleeve mountain eating position selection and the eating quantity distribution in the garment manufacturing process and further ensure the process quality and the manufacturing efficiency, the embodiment discloses a method for determining the sleeve mountain eating quantity distribution of the garment, and the specific operation steps of the method are explained with reference to fig. 1-3 as follows:

(1) firstly, determining the front armhole arc length, the rear armhole arc length and the sleeve top arc length:

(2) determining the eating tendency of the sleeve mountains:

(3) determining the distribution of the sleeve hill eating tendency:

overall distribution of the sleeve mountain eating tendency: golden section is carried out on the lengths of the arc lines a-f, 60% of the eating tendency, namely the arc line a-H, is allocated to the rear sleeve mountain arc line G-a, and 40% of the eating tendency, namely the arc line f-H, is allocated to the front sleeve mountain arc line G' -f;

sleeve hill eating refinement distribution:

eating tendency of posterior sleeve mountain: trisecting the rear armhole arc line A-G to obtain an arc line A-B, B-C, C-G, and trisecting the arc line G-a to obtain arc lines a-B, B-C and C-G in the same way, wherein the arc line A-B is equal to the arc line a-B in length, the arc line B-C is equal to the arc line B-C in length, and the arc line C-G is equal to the arc line C-G in length; the length distribution scheme of the sleeve mountain eating force of the arc line at the section a-H is that the distribution eating force at the section a-b is 25%, the distribution eating force at the section b-c is 25% and the distribution eating force at the section c-G is 10%;

the front sleeve mountain is eaten: taking an arc F-E with the same length as the section A-B on the front armhole arc line, taking an arc E-D with the same length as the section B-C on the rear armhole arc line, correspondingly taking an arc F-E with the same length as the arc F-E and an arc E-D with the same length as the arc E-D on the armhole arc line, wherein the armhole draft of the H-F arc line has a length distribution scheme of 25% of draft at the F-E part, 10% of draft at the E-D part and 5% of draft at the D-G' part.

The above description is only an embodiment of the present invention, and not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications of equivalent structures and equivalent processes performed by the present specification and drawings, or directly or indirectly applied to other related technical fields, are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for determining the distribution of sleeve hill eating tendency of clothes is characterized by comprising the following operation steps:

(2) determining the eating tendency of the sleeve mountains:

(3) determining the distribution of the sleeve hill eating tendency: firstly, carrying out the overall distribution process of the sleeve-hill-eating tendency, and then carrying out the detailed distribution of the sleeve-hill-eating tendency;

in the step (3), the overall distribution scheme of the sleeve mountain eating tendency is as follows:

performing golden division on the lengths of the arc lines a-f, wherein H is a division point, 60% of the eating tendency, namely the length of the arc line a-H, is allocated to the rear sleeve top arc line G-a, and 40% of the eating tendency, namely the length of the arc line f-H, is allocated to the front sleeve top arc line G' -f;

in the step (3), the sleeve mountain eating force refinement distribution scheme comprises distribution of rear sleeve mountain eating force and distribution of front sleeve mountain eating force, wherein,

the distribution scheme of the eating tendency of the rear sleeve mountain is as follows: trisecting the rear armhole arc line A-G to obtain an arc line A-B, B-C, C-G, and trisecting the arc line G-a to obtain arc lines a-B, B-C and C-G in the same way, wherein the arc line A-B is equal to the arc line a-B in length, the arc line B-C is equal to the arc line B-C in length, and the arc line C-G is equal to the arc line C-G in length; the length distribution scheme of the sleeve mountain eating force of the arc line at the section a-H is that the distribution eating force at the section a-b is 25%, the distribution eating force at the section b-c is 25% and the distribution eating force at the section c-G is 10%;