CN100435677C - 180 deg. cutting method - Google Patents
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- CN100435677C CN100435677C CNB011014520A CN01101452A CN100435677C CN 100435677 C CN100435677 C CN 100435677C CN B011014520 A CNB011014520 A CN B011014520A CN 01101452 A CN01101452 A CN 01101452A CN 100435677 C CN100435677 C CN 100435677C
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a 180-degree tailoring method which belongs to a novel clothes tailoring method. The method thoroughly solves the problem of the unreasonableness and the limitation of forebreast width formula 2/10 forebreast-13cm, and 1.5/10 forebreast +3.5cm. The 180-degree tailoring method is technically characterized in that after shoulder seams between the front cloth piece and the back cloth piece of clothes are seamed, and the angle of the armhole arc line at the shoulder seam is maintained at about 180 degrees. According to different designs of clothes, the angle of the armhole arc line at the shoulder seam of western-style clothes is 180 degrees, and the angle of the armhole arc line at the shoulder seam of clothes with closed collars can be 188 degrees or 192 degrees. A differential between each shoulder and the forebreast width, and a differential between each shoulder and a back width can be measured by using different angles in different designs, so clothes tailoring is more accurate, scientific, reasonable and convenient.
Description
The invention belongs to the new method of tailoring
Up to now, in China and even the world clothing cutting design, front mid-arnhole mostly adopts following two formula: 2/10 chest-1.3 centimetre or 1.5 chests+3.5 centimetre, but top two formula belong to concluding to sum up and verify out, have significant limitation, only relatively be fit to the build of build standard of comparison.For the more fat crowd of build, above two formula all be false.And, above two formula all do not have scientific basis.Front mid-arnhole why=1.5/10 chest+3.5 centimetre, front mid-arnhole why=2/10 chest-1.3 centimetre, all do not have the scientific theory foundation.0 author to this " D formula cutting-out method " once did to attack the tailoring formula." cutting of D formula " published by the little Science Press of peace.
Purpose of the present invention just is directed to the injustice of above-mentioned front mid-arnhole formula, invents the more garment cutting method of science-180 ° cutting-out method of a kind of renewal.We's rule has scientifically profoundly been pointed out the internal relation of shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back.Make the more accurate more science of tailoring more attractive in appearance.
Now be written as book according to 180 ° of cutting-out methods, will publish by the little science tech publishing house of peace.Be the partial content of relevant 180 ° of cutting-out methods below, now take passages as follows:
All did the comrade of tailoring, and such sensation all can be arranged, and can carry out dress and were not easy for client, can all do fitly especially for each part clothes of each client, and it is good especially to wear effect, is not easy especially.Even cutting master worker handicraft is high again, tailoring technique is good again, and is also difficult to accomplish.Same master worker, the clothes of why makeing to first is just fit, to second make just ugly? great disparity between cutting master worker and the cutting master worker, that just varies especially.In fact, we own " tailoring theory " together, and why same individual's utilization " same cutting formula " can these phenomenons occur?
From here, we are not difficult to find out not " public affairs " of tailoring formula.Tailoring has a lot of formula and fixed number, but we everyone be not difficult all to recognize that these formula and mathematical formulae are distinct, mathematical formulae is to derive through theoretical logic, being the formula of " definitely ", some least bit mistakes must not be arranged, is definitely unalterable.Tailoring formula source also is to derive out through theory of practice, even but the formula that such derivation is come out also is " giving a strained interpretation ", the tailoring formula has a fatal weakness, as certain position of human body, a certain cutting formula, and certain position of our thousands upon thousands people's build is anything but according to this formula growth.So " public affairs " word of tailoring formula has just been well imagined.Therefore, as the tailoring producer, must also must see clearly this point.
Introduce 180 ° of cutting-out methods to the reader before, below analyze and research earlier and inquire into regard to tailoring part formula and reader.
One. the comparison of front mid-arnhole formula and disadvantage
At present, have in the portion of garment book front mid-arnhole is only indicated a clear and definite size, this is concerning the reader, and a mystery of being unable to guess is impossible beyond doubt, a style, and the no matter large or small girth of a garment, front mid-arnhole all is an accurate size.Its front mid-arnhole formula roughly has following two kinds:
1. women front mid-arnhole=2/10 chest-1.3 centimetre (fixed number)
2. women front mid-arnhole=1.5/10 chest+3～4 centimetre (fixed number)
First front mid-arnhole formula calculates more convenient, but its accuracy is not high, second front mid-arnhole formula than first more accurately, but centimetre to be unit, it is not too convenient to calculate when the single-piece cutting.Getting several different chest measurements below uses top two formula to calculate and be compared as follows respectively:
Chest measurement 80 90 100 105 110 120 130
2/10 chest-1.3 centimetres 14.7 16.7 18.7 19.7 20.7 22.7 24.7
1.5/10 chest+3～4 centimetres 15.5 17.0 18.5 19.2 20.0 21.5 23.0
Error 0.8 0.3 0.2 0.5 0.7 1.2 1.7
From relatively top, when chest measurement during at 90-100 centimetre, 0.7 centimetre of two groups of maximum error of front mid-arnhole formula with cun office promptly 2 minutes, are more or less the same.But when chest measurement during greater than 130 centimetres, the front mid-arnhole that first front mid-arnhole formula calculates goes out 1.7 centimetres greatly than second, promptly 5 of cun minutes.From not uniting of tailoring formula as can be seen here.
Below again in conjunction with shoulder across, above two front mid-arnhole formula: as Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Shoulder breadth 427 453 472
100 centimetres 110 centimetres 130 centimetres of chest measurements
2/10 chest-1.3 centimetres 18.74 20.7 24.7
1.5/10 chest+3～4 centimetres 18.5 20.0 23.0
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 is the front mid-arnhole formula, and 2/10 chest-1.3 centimetre is used in situation about being occurred on the different chest measurements.
Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 is the front mid-arnhole formula, and 15/10 chest+3.5 centimetre are used in situation about being occurred on the different chest measurements.
From top drawing as can be seen, above-mentioned two front mid-arnhole formula are to Fig. 3, and Fig. 6 is false, and any cutter is to Fig. 3, and the phenomenon of Fig. 6 all can't be made gratifying explanation, and Fig. 3 front mid-arnhole is higher than shoulder breadth, and Fig. 6 front mid-arnhole is near shoulder breadth.In the actual tailoring of single-piece through regular meeting Fig. 3 appears, the phenomenon of Fig. 6, but this phenomenon has been run counter to the objective law of organization of human body, and which kind of bodily form no matter, shoulder across all must be greater than front mid-arnhole, because shoulder is covered with arm and shirtfront.As Fig. 7, front mid-arnhole must be less than shoulder, and from here as can be seen, the tailoring formula is " public affairs " not, and just under the situation of certain scope, it is just more reasonable.
Compare one group of data below again:
Certain woman, 93 centimetres of the basic chest measurements of cotton knitwear external pelivimetry, 44 centimetres of shoulder across (total shoulder) are got chest measurement respectively and are placed 8 centimetres, and 13 centimetres, 17 centimetres, add 4 centimetres of margins to seam in addition again, obtain following size respectively:
93+8+4＝105
93+13+4＝110
93+17+4＝114
Same people, add high-volume different, the girth of a garment of clothes is different naturally, but shoulder across can not change because of the variation that chest measurement adds high-volume, it is 44 centimetres with shoulder breadth below, chest measurement is respectively 105 centimetres, and 110 centimetres, 114 centimetres, by 1: 7, as follows with front mid-arnhole=1.5/10 chest+3.5 formula drawing: from the graph as can be seen, same individual, same clothes, get chest measurement and add high-volume difference, front mid-arnhole also increases by a certain percentage thereupon, and Figure 10 is 20.5-19.2=1.3 centimetre than Fig. 8 front mid-arnhole recruitment, and its recruitment is not very few.But when a finished product clothes effect was weighed in actual observation, front mid-arnhole added high-volume to increase with chest measurement and is not subjected to client's welcome.Relatively Kao Jiu client often wants you to revise, and front mid-arnhole is changed thin.From here as can be seen, though some client likes wearing looser clothes, chest measurement high-volume increases, and some position does not need to increase by a certain percentage thereupon.Increase has become " unnecessary proud flesh " on the contrary, must revise.As you know, our hand, both arms in most cases move in the health front, nobody with one's hands behind one's back both hands working after one's death.The front mid-arnhole increase helps both arms and does stretching routine backward, but we backward stretching be seldom after all.Do not and we set up by the clothes that Fig. 5 is tailored very much yet? so the increase of front mid-arnhole can make position, clothes shirtfront gauffer occur and look, and is not attractive in appearance.Front mid-arnhole also is subjected to the influence of height chest except being added restriction high-volume.
Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Figure 10 expresses the same shoulder breadth of same people, and chest measurement adds difference high-volume, the variation between shoulder and the front mid-arnhole.
For high chest body, measured chest measurement has comprised the breast of protuberance, and front mid-arnhole does not then contain the amount that is increased because of the chest protuberance.The bodily form of certain high chest will be done when cutting and add province seam or processing such as hack to satisfy the needs of the bodily form.This shows that in actual single-piece cutting, the notion of shirtfront formula is not what fix.Below we analyze Fig. 3 that the front is said again.We adjust subtrahend front mid-arnhole formula 2/10 chest-1.3 centimetre once for 1.3 centimetres when utilization Fig. 3.Use 2/10 chest-3 centimetre respectively, 2/10 chest-5 centimetre drawing 11, Figure 12.
Figure 11 is with 2/10 chest-3 centimetre drawing, and Figure 12 uses 1.5/10 chest+3.5 centimetre drawing with 2/10 chest-5 a centimetre drawing Figure 13.
From top drawing, use 2/10 chest-3 centimetre Figure 11, shoulder differs only 0.6 centimetre with front mid-arnhole, still is false.Use 2/10 chest-5 centimetre, shoulder differs 2.6 centimetres with front mid-arnhole, and effect is fine in reality is suitable for.Use 1.5/10 chest+3.5 centimetre, Figure 13, shoulder differs also with the shirtfront and only is .6 centimetre, also is false in actual cutting.In drawing 12, the retractility of front mid-arnhole formula 2/10 chest-5 centimetre is very big, differs with normalized form to reach 5-1.3=3.7 centimetre.Often we a lot of cutting master workers dare not stretch so greatly, worry clothes has been made sad work of it, and use 2/10 chest-3 centimetre at most, or 2/10 chest-4 centimetre, think that this and normalized form differ all very big.The clothes poor effect that will occur making like this.In fact, chest measurement and front mid-arnhole have directly and are closely connected, but because all multifactor, front mid-arnhole formula 2/10 chest-1.3 centimetre, and 1.5/10 chest+3.5 centimetre are not perfect, they use effect preferable within the specific limits.Be that chest measurement uses the effect possibility better between 90-110 centimetre.Chest measurement uses above formula more than 120 centimetres, and effect does not all include desirable.Because people's chest measurement variable quantity can be very big.The chest measurement of ready-made clothes can be 110 centimetres before getting fat as a people, the chest measurement of clothes perhaps needs 130 centimetres after getting fat, variable quantity is very big, but shoulder is after human body is got fat, shoulder also can change, how also not have chest measurement so obvious but change, shoulder across and front mid-arnhole formula just occur being false phenomenon like this.From top we as can be seen, chest measurement and front mid-arnhole have directly gets in touch closely.But we are not difficult to find out that shoulder is closer, more direct with the relation of front mid-arnhole.Because no matter the people of which kind of bodily form is covered with arm and shirtfront always shoulder occupies a commanding position, shoulder has comprised arm and shirtfront two parts.Front mid-arnhole must be less than shoulder.Certainly this is at the clothes of the fit class of design model.
All containing certain inherent law in the world between anything inside.In apparel construction, equally also containing it self rule.
The purport of 180 ° of cutting-out methods is to have disclosed the internal relation of shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back in the dress designing.Front mid-arnhole, the invalid numerous and diverse situation of the unable to decide which is right utilization of across back formula have in the past been abandoned.
1,180 ° of garment cutting method inferences
Front mid-arnhole formula 2/10 chest-1.3,1.5/10 chest+3.5th, past, the general tailoring formula of China's clothes book until now.Its formula is originated, and the chances are verifies out that according to standard figure conclusion summary it meets standard figure really, hinders but practicality is too narrow.Only be fit to the less standard figure of chest measurement, after chest measurement surpasses certain limit greatly, above two front mid-arnhole formula all be false.But owing to can not find more perfect " formula ", these two have very big circumscribed shirtfront public affairs and compete flourishing long time.180 ° of garment cutting methods will thoroughly be broken this deadlock.
China normal human's shoulder gradient generally about 20 °, but since now the most of shoulder of upper garment all adorn shoulder pad, so the fall gradient value of shoulder of upper garment falls smallerly than the gradient of the shoulder of human body, generally get about 18 degree.For the internal relation of shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back is described, supposition front mid-arnhole, across back and shoulder breadth are big equally earlier now.F, E are respectively the mid point of line segment AB, CD.As Figure 14, angle α=18 ° then angle β are that angle OCD and angle OAB equal 90 °+α=90 °+18 °=108
Figure 14 is the front and back situation that garment piece occurred under the same big situation of hypothesis front mid-arnhole across back and shoulder.
Below front and back garment piece shoulder seam OA, OC are stitched together, launch, as Figure 15.Figure 15 is the situation that the same big front and back of hypothesis front mid-arnhole across back and shoulder breadth garment piece shoulder seam is sewed together and occurs.
As can be seen from Figure 15, the angle formed of front and back garment piece EAF then=β+β=108 °+108 °=216 °.Re-entrant angle
EAF then is the muffs camber line, everybody all is familiar to our people's build for its angle=360 °-216 °=144 °, no matter its shoulder of men and women all is perfectly round, as Figure 16, special again build shoulder also can not be fixed recessed, so the sleeve hole camber line of EAF must be a straight line, just can meet people's build.Be that muffs camber line EAF should keep 180 °.Simultaneously, Western-style clothes all adopts flat mouthful shoulder pad now, and the angle that front and back garment piece EAF forms must keep peaceful bicker degree shoulder pad unanimity, otherwise the angle of garment piece EAF is not 180 °, with flat mouthful of strong the combining in pad angle (180 °), defect will appear in the shoulder of clothes.As Figure 17
Figure 16 is the buman body type schematic diagram.Figure 17 is flat mouthful shoulder pad and garment piece collocation figure.
The angle that Figure 15 garment piece EAF is formed is 216 °, must prune away 36 °, keeps 180 ° of builds that just can meet the people, satisfies the needs of flat mouthful shoulder pad.Because people's both arms mostly move previously at health, back is desirable looser, and the shirtfront is desirable more smaller, thus can take the method for salary distribution of tripartite division, promptly the rear panel back prune away 36 ° 1/3, promptly 12 °, anterior part of chest prune away 36 ° 2/3, promptly 24 °.As Figure 18, muffs camber line EAF promptly is controlled to be 180 ° like this, design only in this way, and the shoulder of clothes could match with people's build, could use flat mouthful shoulder pad.
Figure 18 is 180 ° of cutting-out method Western-style clothes angle schematic diagram.
The definition of 180 ° of cutting-out methods: from the structure of human body and dress designing theoretically, after front and back garment piece shoulder was sewed up and launched, it was the new method of tailoring that the muffs camber line EAF of its shoulder must remain 180 °---180 ° of cutting-out methods.
180 ° of cutting-out methods, it not only discloses the inherent law of apparel construction, and has increased the transparency of tailoring, definition, the implication of tailoring U.S. has been given prominence in easy tailoring.
180 ° of cutting-out methods are men and women's Western-style clothes optimum clipped methods.180 ° of cutting-out methods have descended an accurately definition clearly for the moulding of Western-style clothes shoulder.Western-style clothes is owing to be collar, and anterior part of chest is not detain deadly, so even both arms are done stretching routine backward, the roll line place can chip, when both arms were regained, roll line was replied former state again.So the cutting of 180 ° of degree not only makes the Western-style clothes shoulder handsome in appearance, and do not influence the comfort level of Western-style clothes dress.
Close the door neck class upper garment and Western-style clothes is different.Neck class upper garment anterior part of chest is to buckle deadly owing to close the door, and the front mid-arnhole across back all should increase relatively, to make things convenient for the motion of arm.Need shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back angle residual quantity are dwindled 1/3 respectively for this reason, promptly close the door neck class shoulder and front mid-arnhole angle pruning rate is 24 ° * 2/3=16 °, shoulder is 12 ° * 1/3=8 ° with across back angle pruning rate, the number of degrees that garment piece muffs camber line is formed like this are 216 °-16 °-8 °=192 °, neck class upper garment is not suitable for flat mouthful shoulder pad so close the door, more be not suitable for flat mouthful of shoulder pad, otherwise defect will appear in shoulder with thicker greatly typing.Closing the door neck class upper garment can be with repairing recessed shoulder pad slightly or with the more soft sponge shoulder pad of flexible type.Certainly shoulder and front mid-arnhole are takeed on the residual quantity of across back and also can further be dwindled, and just anterior part of chest and back gauffer will further increase, and the motion comfort level will increase, and is fit to require loose especially the elderly of clothes and loose-fitting dress.But the residual quantity of shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back is further dwindled like this, and the angle that front and back garment piece muffs camber line is formed is further from 180 °, and shoulder can not use shoulder pad like this.As Figure 19, Figure 19 is a jacket muffs camber line.
Shoulder also can be identical with the Western-style clothes back with the design at back on the neck class of closing the door, because the loose comfortability at back has been considered at the back of Western-style clothes, and the angle 1/3 that only prunes away and prune away.The angle that the neck class upper garment shoulder of closing the door is like this formed is 216 °-16 °-12 °=188 °, and this kind design makes 180 ° of the shoulder convergences of the neck class upper garment of closing the door, and making the neck class upper garment shoulder moulding of closing the door more attractive in appearance.
The design of 192 ° of collar jackets of closing the door make clothes looser more comfortable, but the gauffer of back is more, is fit to the elderly and likes wearing the crowd of loose formula.
The design of 188 ° the neck class upper garment of closing the door makes shoulder, the back moulding of the neck class upper garment of closing the door more attractive in appearance.
180 ° of garment cutting methods are suitable for man, all Western-style clothes of young girl, close the door and lead the class upper garment.Just in concrete utilization, because the difference of style, the muffs camber line angle of shoulder also changes slightly, and the upper garment shoulder muffs camber line number of degrees of Western-style clothes class are that 180 ° of neck class upper garment muffs camber line number of degrees of closing the door are 192 °, 188 °.Wait until that for loose formula special muffs camber line then works as another matter.
180 ° of cutting-out method schematic diagram, Figure 20.Figure 20 is 180 ° of cutting-out method angles of neck class upper garment schematic diagram of closing the door.
180 ° of garment cutting methods thoroughly make the design of upper garment shoulder, cutting, making, moulding, sharpening, clear.Thoroughly avoid all disadvantages because of using front mid-arnhole across back formula to occur.When chest breadth across back formula designs and produces Western-style clothes before use, can not accurately make shoulder muffs camber line reach 180 °, like this with flat mouthful shoulder pad is strong combines, certainly will destroy moulding U.S. of shoulder.Avoid fat body because of using the front mid-arnhole formula and occur that front mid-arnhole is higher than or, and be difficult to hold, need the phenomenon of revising repeatedly near shoulder breadth.
180 ° of garment cutting methods are applicable to any build, make the shoulder moulding reach more perfect for shouldering the shoulder thickness that the build of shoulder then can adjust shoulder pad that collapses, shoulder the more thinner shoulder pad of shoulder body available thickness, collapse and take on the then available thicker shoulder pad of body, narrower for shoulder, narrower and small sloping shoulders body then can suitably increase 1-2.5 centimetre with shoulder breadth, because of using shoulder pad, the suitable increase of shoulder breadth does not only influence the attractive in appearance of ready-made clothes, and has revised build, and just the shoulder moulding of sloping shoulders body is also more perfect.
2,180 ° of garment cutting method digitlizations
Be to represent 180 ° of garment cutting methods with angle above, it is more more convenient angle to be converted into size in actual single-piece cutting.180 ° of garment cutting method basic goals are to determine shoulder and front mid-arnhole, the residual quantity between shoulder and the across back.Its residual quantity is the pairing limit of angle and is respectively FH, EP.FH promptly is the residual quantity of shoulder and front mid-arnhole, and EP is the residual quantity of shoulder with across back.As Figure 21
Adult muffs is deeply generally about 25 centimetres, and the length that to remove the shoulder 5 centimetres (shoulder that falls is generally between 5-6 centimetre) that falls be AB is generally about 20 centimetres.AF, CE are generally about 10 centimetres.Measure FH by solid line and be approximately 4 centimetres, EP is approximately 2 centimetres.As Figure 22 23 same we can measure and work as AF, CE is respectively 9 centimetres, 8 centimetres, 7 centimetres, 6 centimetres, 5 centimetres, the residual quantity of shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back.Figure 21 is that schematic diagram expressed in 180 ° of cutting-out method letters.Figure 22 Figure 23 is 180 ° of cutting-out method numeral expression schematic diagrames.
As can be seen from Figure 23, dark more shoulder of muffs and front mid-arnhole and across back residual quantity are big more, and muffs is more little, and shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back residual quantity are more little.Figure 22, Figure 23 charts by 1: 1 solid line for 180 ° of cutting-out method cut-back angles of Western-style clothes, and we there is no harm in actual measurement once:
1, the residual quantity of 180 ° of cutting-out method Western-style clothes shoulders and front mid-arnhole and across back:
In the time of AF=10 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=4.2 centimetre, residual quantity=2.1 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=9 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=3.8 centimetre, residual quantity=1.9 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=8 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=3.4 centimetre, residual quantity=1.7 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=7 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=3.0 centimetre, residual quantity=1.5 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=6 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=2.6 centimetre, residual quantity=1.3 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=5 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=2.2 centimetre shoulder are with residual quantity=1.1 of across back centimetre
2,180 ° of cutting-out methods (192 °) are closed the door, and the neck shoulder is takeed on front mid-arnhole and the residual quantity of across back:
In the time of AF=10 centimetre, residual quantity=1.4 of shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=2.8 centimetre shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=9 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=2.5 centimetre, residual quantity=1.2 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=8 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=2.2 centimetre, residual quantity=1.1 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=7 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=1.9 centimetre, residual quantity=1 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=6 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=1.6 centimetre, residual quantity=0.8 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=5 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=1.3 centimetre, residual quantity=0.7 of shoulder and across back centimetre
3,180 ° of cutting-out methods (188 °) are closed the door and are led the residual quantity of shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back:
In the time of AF=10 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=2.8 centimetre, residual quantity=2.1 of shoulder and across back centimetre
In the time of AF=9 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=2.5 centimetre, shoulder and across back residual quantity=1.9 centimetre
In the time of AF=8 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=2.2 centimetre, shoulder and across back residual quantity=1.7 centimetre
In the time of AF=7 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=1.9 centimetre, shoulder and across back residual quantity=1.5 centimetre
In the time of AF=6 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=1.6 centimetre, shoulder and across back residual quantity=1.3 centimetre
In the time of AF=5 centimetre, shoulder and front mid-arnhole residual quantity=1.3 centimetre, residual quantity=0.7 of shoulder and across back centimetre
188 ° of necks of closing the door are takeed on and front mid-arnhole residual quantity 192 ° of neck class upper garments of closing the door together, the same Western-style clothes of residual quantity of shoulder and across back
To we are not difficult to find out that 180 ° of cuttings are optimal selections of clothing shoulder moulding here.Thereby determined the accurate theoretical foundation of shoulder moulding.Fundamentally clearly simplify the internal relation of having clarified shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back.Make shoulder and front mid-arnhole, the relation between the across back is simple and clear.Easy tailoring, at us to shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back after the thoroughly clear and definite internal relation, in our actual cutting, processing to shoulder and front mid-arnhole and across back just can be accomplished masterly, just can wait and make best selection, make the shoulder moulding more accurately attractive in appearance rationally according to the different hobbies of different garment.
Claims (3)
1, a kind of cutting-out method, it is characterized in that: after shoulder seam is sewed up before and after the clothes, the armhole curve at shoulder seam place should keep about 180 °, because the difference of style, concrete angle is also different, the armhole curve at Western-style clothes shoulder seam place should accurately keep 180 °, and the armhole curve at the neck class of closing the door upper garment shoulder seam place is 188 °, 192 °.
2, according to claim 1, the armhole curve at Western-style clothes shoulder seam place should accurately keep 180 °, and anterior part of chest is pruned 24 °, and the back is pruned 12 °.
3, according to claim 1,188 ° of necks of closing the door, chest is pruned 16 °, and the back is pruned 12 °, and 192 ° of neck chests of closing the door are pruned 16 °, and the back is pruned 8 °.
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Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1039521C (en) * | 1994-04-27 | 1998-08-19 | 路红 | Standard shape cutting out method |
| EP0976868A1 (en) * | 1998-07-31 | 2000-02-02 | DHJ International | Fusible interlining and process for its fabrication |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1039521C (en) * | 1994-04-27 | 1998-08-19 | 路红 | Standard shape cutting out method |
| EP0976868A1 (en) * | 1998-07-31 | 2000-02-02 | DHJ International | Fusible interlining and process for its fabrication |
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