CN101816468B - Sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes - Google Patents

Sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101816468B
CN101816468B CN2010101678288A CN201010167828A CN101816468B CN 101816468 B CN101816468 B CN 101816468B CN 2010101678288 A CN2010101678288 A CN 2010101678288A CN 201010167828 A CN201010167828 A CN 201010167828A CN 101816468 B CN101816468 B CN 101816468B
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China
Prior art keywords
sleeve
pin
muffs
sewing
shoulder
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CN2010101678288A
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CN101816468A (en
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丁红燕
王高飞
徐晓霞
丁雪萍
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Lampo Co.,Ltd.
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CHANGZHOU PRINCE GARMENTS Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of clothes, in particular to a sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes. The sewing process of the shoulders of the western style clothes comprises the following steps: sewing an outer arm hole and sewing an inner arm hole, wherein firstly, sewing the outer arm hole and then sewing the inner arm hole; when sewing the outer arm hole, opening a lining of the shoulder, sleeving the shoulder on a model levelly and smoothing; when sewing a back arm hole, smoothing back grain lines; when sewing the inner arm hole, firstly sewing the back arm hole, and putting a shoulder pad on the model in a reverse direction; and then sewing the front arm hole, after fixing a sleeve notch, pulling the edge of the arm hole tightly by hand, and sewing along a sleeve set-in seam to the front shoulder blade, wherein the needle pitch is 1cm/needle. The front arm hole and the back arm hole are round, smooth and full, the sleeve crown is level and is not concave or convex, the front chest is level, the sleeves are symmetrical, the back arm hole and the sleeve are smooth without cracks, and the western style clothes are comfortable in wear and have beautiful appearance.

Description

Sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes
Technical field
The present invention relates to the garment technology field, especially a kind of sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes.
Background technology
The pressure shoulder sense of shoulder all can be arranged, the phenomenon such as the shirtfront is not full, and muffs is not smoother, and the sleeve mountain is stiff after the general western-style clothes dress.Not only wear uncomfortablely, and outward appearance is also plain.
Summary of the invention
In order to overcome the uncomfortable and inaesthetic deficiency of appearance of existing western-style clothes dress, the invention provides a kind of sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes.
The technical solution adopted for the present invention to solve the technical problems is: a kind of sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes, western-style clothes shoulder are decided pin and divided the two large divisions: one, outer muffs is decided pin, and two, interior muffs decides pin;
When doing outer muffs and deciding pin, need the shoulder underedge is raised, shoulder is enclosed within to set level on the model puts forward, divide six to eight pins surely to the mountain of tucking inside the sleeve from the front neck hall along shoulder seam, muffs 2~8cm decides pin in the place forward again, will draw from latasuture the amount of 0.05~0.8cm during withdrawal of needle, and the floating pin of deciding makes progress; The shirtfront is touched flat, and unnecessary amount is placed on front omoplate place; Front 2~the 8cm of sleeve the direction which a grave faces decides pin and upwards decides pin 1cm~5cm joint with the sleeve end, needs face and chest piece are strained and fixed, and the chest piece cutter eye of the inside need be dehisced; When deciding back sleeve, the back fibre is put forward, begin the surely extremely big sleeve seam 1~5cm of branch 2~8 pin tilted directions from the front neck hall and fix; Dress sleeve seam is decided pin to the sleeve mountain then, and big sleeve seam is upwards wanted even quantity of margin in 1~8cm place, decides pin to the sleeve mountain, and needle gage is the 1cm/ pin;
When interior muffs is decided pin, decide earlier back sleeve, shoulder pad is placed on the model in the other direction, the quantity of margin of interior muffs 0.2~0.3cm, and interior muffs put forward, be sewing to big sleeve from the shoulder pad afterbody along the dress sleeve and sew on upwards 0.02~1.5cm; Decide front muffs, after sleeve cutter eye was fixed, muffs edge before the finger-tight was sewing to front omoplate place along filling to tuck inside the sleeve again, and needle gage is the 1cm/ pin.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows that front and back muffs circle is along full, the no concave-convex sense of being convinced of sleeve mountain, the shirtfront is smooth, after the sleeve symmetry is unmatched, the docile not crack initiation of back sleeve identity and sleeve.Not only comfortable and easy to wear, and outward appearance is also fine sees.
Description of drawings
The present invention is further described below in conjunction with drawings and Examples.
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram that the outer muffs of the present invention is decided pin;
Fig. 2 is the schematic diagram that muffs is decided pin in the present invention.
1. front muffs among the figure, 2. back sleeve, 3. shoulder seam, 4. latasuture, 5. big sleeve seam, 6. omoplate, 7. shoulder pad, 8. chest piece, 91. sleeve mountains, the 92. sleeve ends.
The specific embodiment
In conjunction with the accompanying drawings, the present invention is further detailed explanation.These accompanying drawings are the schematic diagram of simplification, basic structure of the present invention only is described in a schematic way, so it only show the formation relevant with the present invention.
As Fig. 1 is structural representation of the present invention, and a kind of sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes, western-style clothes shoulder are decided pin and divided the two large divisions: one, outer muffs is decided pin, two, interior muffs decides pin;
When doing outer muffs and deciding pin, need the shoulder underedge is raised, shoulder is enclosed within to set level on the model puts forward, 3 fens six to eight pins are surely to the mountain 91 of tucking inside the sleeve from the front neck hall along shoulder seam, 2~8cm place of muffs 1 decides pin forward again, will draw from latasuture 4 amount of 0.05~0.8cm during withdrawal of needle, and the floating pin of deciding makes progress; The shirtfront is touched flat, and unnecessary amount is placed on front omoplate 6 places; Sleeve mountain 91 forward 2~8cm decide pin and is upwards decided pin 1cm~5cm joint in the end 92 with sleeve, and need be strained and fixed face and chest piece 8, and the chest piece 8 cutter eyes of the inside need be dehisced; When deciding back sleeve 2, the back fibre is put forward, begin the surely extremely big 1~5cm that tucks inside the sleeve seam 5 of branch 2~8 pin tilted directions from the front neck hall and fix; Dress sleeve seam is decided pin to sleeve mountain 91 then, and big sleeve seam 5 is upwards wanted even quantity of margin in 1~8cm place, decides pin to sleeve mountain 91, and needle gage is the 1cm/ pin;
When interior muffs is decided pin, decide earlier back sleeve 2, shoulder pad 7 is placed on the model in the other direction, the quantity of margin of 0.2~0.3cm of interior muffs 2, and interior muffs 2 put forward is sewing to the big sleeve seam 5 0.02~1.5cm that makes progress from shoulder pad 7 afterbodys along the dress sleeve; Decide front muffs 1, after sleeve cutter eye was fixed, muffs 1 edge before the finger-tight was sewing to front omoplate 6 places along filling to tuck inside the sleeve again, and needle gage is the 1cm/ pin.
Hundred good fortune of deciding the pin special use at the western-style clothes shoulder decide to install on the pin machine model by the similar human body shoulder of company's design.This model is made by wood materials, and the surface is smoother smooth, easy operating.With western-style clothes install sleeve hold successfully the sleeve mountain crack, on this equipment, carry out shoulder and decide pin, chest piece, shoulder pad and muffs are fixed together.Muffs in earlier fixed outer muffs is fixed again.Muffs circle is along full before and after accomplishing, the no concave-convex sense of being convinced of sleeve mountain, and the shirtfront is smooth, after the sleeve symmetry is unmatched, the docile not crack initiation of back sleeve identity and sleeve.
Be the schematic diagram that the outer muffs of the present invention decide pin such as Fig. 1, when doing outer muffs and decide pin, calmly front muffs is decided back sleeve more earlier.The shoulder underedge is raised, shoulder is enclosed within to set level on the model puts forward, 3 fens six to eight pins are surely to the mountain 91 of tucking inside the sleeve from the front neck hall along shoulder seam, and 2~8cm place of muffs 1 decides pin forward again, will draw from latasuture 4 amount of 0.05~0.8cm during withdrawal of needle, and the floating pin of deciding makes progress; The shirtfront is touched flat, and unnecessary amount is placed on front omoplate 6 places; Sleeve mountain 91 forward 2~8cm decide pin and is upwards decided pin 1cm~5cm joint in the end 92 with sleeve, and need be strained and fixed face and chest piece 8, and the chest piece 8 cutter eyes of the inside need be dehisced; When deciding back sleeve 2, the back fibre is put forward, begin the surely extremely big 1~5cm that tucks inside the sleeve seam 5 of branch 2~8 pin tilted directions from the front neck hall and fix; Dress sleeve seam is decided pin to sleeve mountain 91 then, and big sleeve seam 5 is upwards wanted even quantity of margin in 1~8cm place, decides pin to sleeve mountain 91, and needle gage is the 1cm/ pin; The mountain no concave-convex sense of being convinced of accomplishing to tuck inside the sleeve, the shirtfront is smooth, after sleeve is symmetrical unmatched.
The schematic diagram that muffs is decided pin in the present invention such as Fig. 2, when doing interior muffs and deciding pin, earlier fixed before muffs, decide again back sleeve.Decide earlier back sleeve 2, shoulder pad 7 is placed on the model in the other direction, the quantity of margin of 0.2~0.3cm of interior muffs 2, and interior muffs 2 put forward is sewing to the big sleeve seam 5 0.02~1.5cm that makes progress from shoulder pad 7 afterbodys along the dress sleeve; Decide front muffs 1, after sleeve cutter eye was fixed, muffs 1 edge before the finger-tight was sewing to front omoplate 6 places along filling to tuck inside the sleeve again, and needle gage is the 1cm/ pin.Muffs circle is along full before and after accomplishing, the no concave-convex sense of being convinced of sleeve mountain, and the shirtfront is smooth, after the sleeve symmetry is unmatched, the docile not crack initiation of back sleeve identity and sleeve.
Embodiment:
The western-style clothes shoulder is decided pin and divided the two large divisions: one, outer muffs is decided pin, and two, interior muffs decides pin;
When doing outer muffs and deciding pin, need the shoulder underedge is raised, shoulder is enclosed within to set level on the model puts forward, divide five pins surely to the mountain of tucking inside the sleeve from the front neck hall along shoulder seam, muffs 5cm decides pin in the place forward again, will slightly draw amount about 0.2cm from latasuture during withdrawal of needle, and the floating pin of deciding makes progress.The shirtfront is touched flat, and unnecessary amount be placed on before the omoplate place.5cm decides pin and upwards decides pin 2cm-3cm joint with the sleeve end before the sleeve the direction which a grave faces, needs face and chest piece are strained and fixed, and the chest piece cutter eye of the inside need be dehisced.
When deciding back sleeve, the back fibre is put forward, begin branch 5 pin tilted directions from the front neck hall and surely to big sleeve seam 2cm, fix.Dress sleeve seam is decided pin to the sleeve mountain then, and big sleeve seam is upwards wanted even quantity of margin in the 3cm place, decides pin to the sleeve mountain, and needle gage is the 1cm/ pin.
When interior muffs is decided pin, decide earlier back sleeve, shoulder pad is placed on the model in the other direction, muffs is quantity of margin slightly, and muffs is put forward, and is sewing to big sleeve from the shoulder pad afterbody along the dress sleeve and sews on upwards 1cm; Decide front muffs, after sleeve cutter eye was fixed, finger-tight muffs edge was sewing to front omoplate place along filling to tuck inside the sleeve again, and needle gage is the 1cm/ pin.
Take above-mentioned foundation desirable embodiment of the present invention as enlightenment, by above-mentioned description, the relevant staff can in the scope that does not depart from this invention technological thought, carry out various change and modification fully.The technical scope of this invention is not limited to the content on the specification, must determine its technical scope according to the claim scope.

Claims (1)

1. a sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes is characterized in that, the western-style clothes shoulder is decided pin and divided the two large divisions: one, outer muffs is decided pin, two, interior muffs decides pin;
When doing outer muffs and deciding pin, need the shoulder underedge is raised, shoulder is enclosed within to set level on the model puts forward, (3) divide six to eight pins surely to the mountain of tucking inside the sleeve (91) from the front neck hall along shoulder seam, muffs (1) 2~8cm place decides pin forward again, the amount that will draw 0.05~0.8cm from latasuture (4) during withdrawal of needle, the floating pin of deciding makes progress; The shirtfront is touched flat, and unnecessary amount is placed on front omoplate (6) locates; The sleeve mountain (91) forward 2~8cm decide pin with the sleeve end (92) upwards decide pin 1cm~5cm joint, need be strained and fixed face and chest piece (8), the chest piece of the inside (8) cutter eye need be dehisced; When deciding back sleeve (2), the back fibre is put forward, begin surely extremely big sleeve seam (5) 1~5cm of branch 2~8 pin tilted directions from the front neck hall and fix; Dress sleeve seam is decided pin to sleeve mountain (91) then, and big sleeve seam (5) upwards 1~8cm place is wanted even quantity of margin, decides pin to sleeve mountain (91), and needle gage is the 1cm/ pin;
When interior muffs is decided pin, decide earlier back sleeve (2), shoulder pad (7) is placed on the model in the other direction, the quantity of margin of interior muffs (2) 0.2~0.3cm, and interior muffs (2) put forward, be sewing to big sleeve seam (5) 0.02~1.5cm that makes progress from shoulder pad (7) afterbody along the dress sleeve; Muffs (1) before more fixed, fixing sleeve cutter eye after, muffs (1) edge before the finger-tight is sewing to front omoplate (6) along the dress sleeve and locates, needle gage is the 1cm/ pin.
CN2010101678288A 2010-05-11 2010-05-11 Sewing process of shoulders of western style clothes Active CN101816468B (en)

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Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104499196B (en) * 2014-12-15 2016-06-29 北京五木服装有限责任公司 A kind of method of plateau Yarn tightening machine and the shoulder pad that stretches tight
CN105495730B (en) * 2015-12-16 2017-06-06 温州庄吉服饰有限公司 A kind of anti-upper shoulder of western-style clothes sets in sleeve preparation method
CN107594660A (en) * 2017-10-25 2018-01-19 谢亚平 A kind of outer muffs preparation method of western-style clothes

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3403681B2 (en) * 1999-10-21 2003-05-06 梶田 悦子 Clothes sleeve rotating tool and clothes using the same
JP2002069728A (en) * 2000-08-25 2002-03-08 Tatsuo Imazu Method for forming sleeve-cap of western-style wear
CN100435677C (en) * 2001-01-14 2008-11-26 朱孟青 180 deg. cutting method
CN1762264A (en) * 2004-10-20 2006-04-26 葛俊康 Method for determining front shoulder width of men's business suit
JP2006152514A (en) * 2004-12-01 2006-06-15 Itokin Sohonsha:Kk Tailored jacket

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Owner name: LAMPO, INC.

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Address after: Qishuyan District of Jiangsu city of Changzhou province Chang Feng Lu 213013 No. 30

Patentee after: Lampo Co.,Ltd.

Address before: 213013 No. 72 Ding weir, Changzhou City, Jiangsu Province

Patentee before: Changzhou Prince Garments Co., Ltd.