CN102132966B - Method for making fit chamfering one-piece sleeve with dynamic and static balance effect prediction - Google Patents
Method for making fit chamfering one-piece sleeve with dynamic and static balance effect prediction Download PDFInfo
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- CN102132966B CN102132966B CN 201110068141 CN201110068141A CN102132966B CN 102132966 B CN102132966 B CN 102132966B CN 201110068141 CN201110068141 CN 201110068141 CN 201110068141 A CN201110068141 A CN 201110068141A CN 102132966 B CN102132966 B CN 102132966B
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Abstract
The invention relates to a method for making a fit chamfering one-piece sleeve with dynamic and static balance effect prediction, which is a novel method for the structural design of the fit chamfering one-piece sleeve. The method predicts the balance effect of the static beauty and dynamic comfort of the fit chamfering one-piece sleeve by setting the chamfering structure parameter and is convenient to obtain a fit chamfering one-piece sleeve template based on the dynamic and static balance effect; meanwhile, the method provides a chamfering structure parameter interval with an optimal dynamic and static balance effect. The invention reduces the structural design difficulty of the fit chamfering one-piece sleeve, has the advantages of simple, rapid and efficient operation and low relevant experience requirement and provides front-end technical support and necessary theoretical basis for the automatic generating technology of the fit chamfering one-piece sleeve template.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to garment industry, relate generally to method for platemaking and application that fit limb connects body sleeve, have simultaneously to arrange by the limb structural parameters clothes are carried out static aesthetic property and the dynamic function of comfortableness effect prediction.
Background technology
Upper dress adopts Western-style structure mostly now, two kinds of forms-circle dress sleeve is generally arranged on the sleeve type and connect the body sleeve.Circle dress sleeve structure is comparatively common in fashionable dress, and circle dress sleeve roomy comfortable and be applied to move and easy suit because having good motion ductility more relatively to connect the body sleeve.Yet in recent years under the impact of modern designs thought, connect the body sleeve and require to be tending towards gradually fit because of style design creativity point and the style that its special construction moulding becomes modern designer gradually, but also just because the particularity of its structure has been brought static aesthetic property and the dynamic comfortableness that a new difficult problem-how the fit even body of balance is tucked inside the sleeve to the garment technology personnel.
Fit connect the body sleeve by the structure processing mode can be divided into limb, cut-off rule is set, cut-off rule merges three major types with limb, the present invention only relates to and solves the fit limb of woman and connect the static aesthetic property of body sleeve and the contradiction between the dynamic comfortableness.Limb can be divided into again according to the difference of its shape: square limb, triangle limb, bar shaped limb etc., the inventive method is only applicable to the triangle limb.
Connect in the body sleeve structure design at fit limb, limb is divided into front limb (F) and rear limb (B), and the limb structural parameters are limb width and limb plagioclase.The width of limb is the same wherein, and plagioclase is divided into again front plagioclase and rear plagioclase, as shown in Figure 1.
The width of limb is set according to style and comfort need, and the plagioclase of limb depends on two factors, and one is the limb point, and another is that the oxter is cut off a little, as shown in Figure 2.The limb point is divided into front limb point and rear limb point, and front limb point position is relevant with front armpit point position, and rear limb point position is relevant with rear armpit point position; The oxter is cut off and is divided into a little that front oxter is cut off a little and rear oxter is cut off a little, and a position is cut off in the oxter, front and back, and open the factors such as dark amount with armhole relevant.
Find that by literature search existing fit limb connects body sleeve structure design method and has the following disadvantages:
1, cut off a position for how to confirm limb point and oxter and only be confined to experience or indivedual case, and the numerical value that different researchers provides is different.For there is certain difficulty in its flexible Application, and can't satisfy the style of continuous variation and aesthetic property, comfortableness demand.
2, most method for platemaking substantially can reach the fitness requirement but can't satisfy simultaneously static aesthetic property and dynamically comfortableness requirement.
3, the static aesthetic property of unpredictable sample clothing and dynamically comfortableness effect must just can be reached a conclusion through the trial-production of sample clothing.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention provides a kind of fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect and connects body sleeve plate-making new method.The method connects the present situation of body sleeve plate-making with not enough for current fit limb, by the limb structural parameters are arranged, can dope fit limb and connect body tuck inside the sleeve static aesthetic property and the dynamic counterbalance effect of comfortableness, and be convenient to obtain a pair and connect body sleeve example edition based on the fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect; The method has also provided the limb structural parameters interval of sound attitude counterbalance effect the best simultaneously.The method not only has sound attitude counterbalance effect forecast function, and has realized that fit limb connects the succinct, flexible and changeable of body sleeve structure design, has satisfied the style of continuous variation and comfortableness, aesthetic property demand.
The technical solution adopted for the present invention to solve the technical problems is:
1. provide a kind of fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect to connect body sleeve method for platemaking, comprise the following steps:
If fit limb connects the elementary structure parameter of body sleeve:
Chest measurement B=Bcm, waistline W=Wcm, hip circumference H=Hcm, the long L=Lcm of rear underpants, sleeve length SL=SLcm, cuff CW=CWcm, B-W=18cm, H-B=4cm.Sleeve mountain height is λ cm, and the foresleeve gradient is α, and rear sleeve gradient is β.
The limb width is x
1, x
1∈ [8,12]; Plagioclase is x before the limb
2, x
2∈ [10.3,13]; Plagioclase is x behind the limb
3, x
3∈ [7.9,10.7].
Static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate is y
1, y
1∈ [0,1]; Dynamically the Comfort Evaluation value is y
2, y
2∈ [0,1]; Sound attitude comprehensive evaluation value is y
3, y
3∈ [0,1].
1) place prototype: prepare Japanese Culture formula prototype example edition, whole fit limb connects the body sleeve structure design and draws on Japanese Culture formula prototype basis.Just dividing opening with anter and rear panel, anter waistline (WL) aligns with the rear panel waistline, anter point a and rear panel point b distance 〉=60cm, as shown in Figure 3;
2) make 1cm and cast aside chest: anter line segment co is front center line, makes parallel lines L in line segment co left side apart from its 1cm.Anter is rotated counterclockwise take an o as basic point, a c is rotated to straight line L, as shown in Figure 4;
3) make hipline: 18cm makes its parallel lines apart from waistline (WL), and this line is hipline (HL), as shown in Figure 5;
4) make bottom datum line and CB: make the parallel lines of hipline, when making CB extend to this line after underpants head be Lcm, these parallel lines are bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
5) do after in cut-off rule: make as shown in Figure 5 rear middle cut-off rule ghijk, some k be line segment ghij take advantage of a situation prolong after and the intersection point of bottom datum line;
6) determine rear chest measurement size: rear panel BL BUST LINE he is extended to a f, make line segment hf equal B/4, as shown in Figure 5;
7) make front center line: cross a some o and make the vertical line of bottom datum line and prolong 0.5cm to putting z, as shown in Figure 5;
8) make the anter datum line: cross the parallel lines that some z is HL, cross the vertical line that some d makes bottom datum line, two lines going cross each other are in a u, as shown in Figure 5;
9) make the rear panel datum line: cross the vertical line that some f makes bottom datum line, intersect at a v with bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
10) lift 1cm on the back porch point: sheet point S makes vertical line upwards to putting S later
b, the long 1cm of vertical line, as shown in Figure 6;
11) back porch line: tie point l and some S
b, as shown in Figure 6;
12) determine datum line in the rear panel sleeve: cross some S
bAs length be SL straight line namely after datum line in the sleeve, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
1Angle is β, and another end points of datum line is t in the sleeve
3, as shown in Figure 6;
13) make rear panel BICEP line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some t
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting G, line segment Gt
1Length be 2B/10+1, as shown in Figure 6;
14) do rear panel cuff datum line: cross some t
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting r
3, line segment r
3t
3Length be CW+1, as shown in Figure 6;
15) do seam datum line at the bottom of the rear sleeve: tie point G and some r
3, as shown in Figure 6;
16) make rear panel sleeve elbow line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some t
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and line segment Gr
3Intersect at a r
2As shown in Figure 6;
17) determine rear armpit point Q
0: take a h as the center of circle, 17.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section hf in a b, crosses some b and upwards makes the vertical line of hf in a Q
0, Q
0The distance of b is 3.4cm, as shown in Figure 6;
18) determine after limb point Q: with a Q
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects arbitrarily a bit as rear limb point Q Fig. 6 mid point Q and center of circle Q in the circle of radius
0Overlap;
19) make rear panel latasuture line: tie point Q
0With a G, with Q
0Be the center of circle, Q
0G is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line fv in a H, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment kv0.5cm
2, tie point H and some I, tie point I and some p prolong line segment Ip and L
2Intersect at a V, as shown in Figure 6;
20) make the rear panel hipline: some w is the trisection point of line segment kv, and with camber line tie point w and some V, camber line wV is perpendicular to line segment IV, as shown in Figure 6;
21) make the rear panel provincial highway: the mid point A that makes line segment iI
b, cross some A
bMake the vertical line of line segment iI, meet at an o with hipline
4, continuation upwards prolonged 2cm in an o after this vertical line and hH intersected
3, some o
3For economizing cusp.With an A
bFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment iI respectively
1With an o
2, connect o
1o
3, o
2o
3, o
1o
4, o
2o
4, as shown in Figure 6;
22) the outer 1cm of putting of crop point: cross anter point S and do horizontal line L
3, at straight line L
31 S of upper work
f, make a S
fDistance to some S is 1cm, as shown in Figure 7;
23) crop line: tie point m and some S
f, as shown in Figure 7;
24) determine datum line in the anter sleeve: cross some S
fBe that the straight line of SL is datum line in the foresleeve as length, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
3Angle is α, and another end points of datum line is x in the sleeve
3, as shown in Figure 7;
25) make anter BICEP line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some x
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting K, line segment Kx
1Length be 2B/10-1, as shown in Figure 7;
26) do anter cuff datum line: cross some x
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting y
3, line segment x
3y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in Figure 7;
27) do seam datum line at the bottom of the foresleeve: tie point K and some y
3, as shown in Figure 7;
28) make anter sleeve elbow line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some x
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and Ky
3Intersect at a y
2, as shown in Figure 7;
29) make the anter BL BUST LINE: a mistake point d is dn and hangs down as for the oz straight line, and straight line dn and straight line co intersect at a n, as shown in Figure 7;
30) determine front armpit point P
0: take a n as the center of circle, 16.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section dn in an a, crosses some a and upwards makes the vertical line of dn in a P
0, P
0The distance of a is 4cm, as shown in Figure 7;
31) determine before limb point P: with a P
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects arbitrarily a bit as front limb point P Fig. 7 mid point P and center of circle P in the circle of radius
0Overlap;
32) make anter latasuture line: tie point P
0With a K, with P
0Be the center of circle, P
0K is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line du in a J, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment uz1cm
4, tie point J and some L, tie point L and some q prolong line segment Lq and straight line L
4Meet at a U, as shown in Figure 7;
33) make the anter hipline: some e is the trisection point of line segment uz, and with camber line tie point e and some U, camber line eU is perpendicular to line segment LU, as shown in Figure 7;
34) make the anter provincial highway: cross the vertical line that the BP point is made line segment oL, meet at an A with line segment oL
f, meet at an o with hipline
5, meet at a R with line segment uz.With an A
fFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment oL respectively
6With an o
7, connect o
7BP, o
6BP, o
5o
6, o
5o
7, as shown in Figure 7;
35) determine anter chest dart: tie point J and BP point, the difference DELTA of calculating line segment JL (anter) and line segment HI (rear panel).Take a J as the center of circle, Δ draws arc and line segment JL meets at a T as radius, tie point T and BP point, as shown in Figure 7;
36) the anter chest is economized and is shifted: with shadow region (T-BP-o
6-o
5-R-e-U-L-T) be rotated with the BP point, line segment JBP is overlapped with line segment TBP, some J overlaps substantially with some T, as shown in Figure 8;
37) proofread and correct front and back latasuture line: rear panel line segment Gr
3Meet at a N with line segment HI.At anter line segment JL intercepting line segment ML, make line segment ML equal rear panel line segment NI, tie point M and some y
3, as shown in Figure 9;
38) make rear panel limb shearing line: tie point Q and some N.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment QN0.5cm, meet at a N with line segment HI ", with line segment Gr
3Meet at a N '.The vertical line that range points Q2cm makes QN meets at a Q ' and some Q with the two-way parallel lines of QN respectively ".Adjust the position of some N ', make Q ' N '=Q " N " and Q ' N ' //Q " N ", tie point N ' and some r
3, as shown in figure 10;
39) make anter limb shearing line: tie point P and some M.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment PM0.5cm, meet at a M with line segment JL ", with line segment My
3Meet at a M '.The vertical line that range points P2cm makes PM meets at a P ' and some P with the two-way parallel lines of PM respectively ".Adjust the position of some M ', make P ' M '=P " M " and P ' M ' //P " M ", tie point M ' and some y
3, as shown in figure 10;
40) the fit limb of prediction connects the sound attitude counterbalance effect of body sleeve: x
2=P ' M '=P " M ", x
3=Q ' N '=Q " N ", x
1The limb width, x
1Value is according to style and beautiful and comfortable Location of requirement, and general fit limb connects the limb width x of body sleeve
1∈ [8,12].With x
1, x
2, x
3The following correlation formula of substitution,
Y1 (static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate)=2.139-0.012x
1-0.083x
2-0.034x
3
Y2 (dynamically Comfort Evaluation value)=0.746+0.020x
1-0.012x
2-0.021x
3
Whether judge close to 1 whether corresponding performance is superior according to the y value.The y value is more close to 1, and corresponding effect is better.If the y value is undesirable, limb point position before and after then can redefining, the limb plagioclase is perhaps adjusted the limb width, with the x that redefines before and after measuring
1, x
2, x
3The above-mentioned formula of substitution calculates, and carries out the judgement of correlated performance according to the y value that calculates, and enters follow-up plot step after reaching necessary requirement.
41) make rear panel sleeve center line: with a t
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment t
3r
3Meet at a T
3, tie point t
2With a T
3, as shown in figure 10;
42) make anter sleeve center line: with an x
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
3y
3Meet at an X
3, tie point x
2With an X
3, as shown in figure 10;
43) make rear panel cuff line: make line segment R
3T
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line t
2T
3, line segment R
3T
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 10;
44) make rear panel sleeve end suture: tie point N ' and some R
3, with line segment t
2r
2Extended line meet at a R
2, with a R
2For the center of circle, 0.8cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment R
2t
2Meet at a R
2', tie point N ' and some R
2', tie point R
2' and some R
3, as shown in figure 10;
45) make anter cuff line: make line segment X
3Y
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line x
2X
3, line segment X
3Y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 10;
46) make anter sleeve end suture: tie point M ' and some Y
3, with line segment x
2y
2Meet at a Y
2, with a Y
2For the center of circle, 0.5cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
2Y
2Meet at a Y
2', tie point M ' and some Y
2', tie point Y
2' and some Y
3, as shown in figure 10;
47) check front and back sheet sleeve end suture: adjust respectively a some R
3With a Y
3, make camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3And the front and back sleeve opening is constant, and as shown in figure 10, some R3 is adjusted to a R
3' position, camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3', tie point R
2' and some R
3';
48) draw along anter shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 10 anter is put S
fPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
49) draw along rear panel shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 10 rear panel is put S
bPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
50) check front and back shoulder sleeve camber line: measure respectively crop sleeve camber line m-x
1-x
2-X
3With the length of back porch sleeve camber line l-t1-t2-T3, calculate the difference ◎ of two arc length, general back porch sleeve camber line is longer than crop sleeve camber line;
51) make the back neck line: take rear panel point l as the center of circle, (◎-0.3) cm draws arc as radius and meets at a D in the back porch line, such as Figure 10 tie point g and some D, 0.3 is rear shoulder seam contracting amount;
52) make front neckline line: if neckline is wide and neckline is deeply all constant, then anter point m and some c are motionless, draw suitable neckline line and get final product, as shown in figure 10;
53) draw limb width datum line: make a horizontal line section ab, the length of line segment ab is limb width x
1, as shown in figure 11;
54) make the vertical line of limb width datum line: make the vertical line segment ab of a straight line L, straight line L and line segment ab meet at an o and some o is the mid point of line segment ab, as shown in figure 11;
55) do before the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, P ' M ' (anter) draws arc for radius and meets at a c with straight line L, tie point a and some c, tie point b with put c, as shown in figure 12;
56) do after the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, Q ' N ' (rear panel) draws arc for radius and meets at a d with straight line L, tie point a and some d, tie point b with put d, as shown in figure 12;
57) do before and after the limb base: take an o as the center of circle, 0.6cm draws arc as radius and meets at respectively an e and put f with straight line L, tie point a-e-b, tie point a-f-b, as shown in figure 12;
58) repainting anter chest waist economizes: take the BP point as the center of circle, 3cm draws arc and straight line BPA as radius
fMeet at an o
8Point, tie point o
8And o
7, tie point o
8And o
6, as shown in figure 13;
59) draw warp direction: draw warp at anter, rear panel, sheet limb structure chart empty place, front and back, as shown in figure 13;
Fit limb according to sound attitude counterbalance effect the best in the technique scheme 1 described method for platemaking connects body sleeve method for platemaking, and concrete steps of the present invention can also comprise:
If fit limb connects the elementary structure parameter of body sleeve:
Chest measurement B=Bcm, waistline W=Wcm, hip circumference H=Hcm, the long L=Lcm of rear underpants, sleeve length SL=SLcm, cuff CW=CWcm, B-W=18cm, H-B=4cm.Sleeve mountain height is λ cm, and the foresleeve gradient is α, and rear sleeve gradient is β.
The limb width is x
1=10cm; Plagioclase is x before the limb
2, x
2∈ [10.3,11.7]; Plagioclase is x behind the limb
3, x
3∈ [7.9,9.3].
Static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate is y
1, y
1∈ [0,1]; Dynamically the Comfort Evaluation value is y
2, y
2∈ [0,1]; Sound attitude comprehensive evaluation value is y
3, y
3∈ [0,1].
1) place prototype: prepare Japanese Culture formula prototype example edition, whole fit limb connects the body sleeve structure design and draws on Japanese Culture formula prototype basis.Just dividing opening with anter and rear panel, anter waistline (WL) aligns with the rear panel waistline, anter point a and rear panel point b distance 〉=60cm, as shown in Figure 3;
2) make 1cm and cast aside chest: anter line segment co is front center line, makes parallel lines L in line segment co left side apart from its 1cm.Anter is rotated counterclockwise take an o as basic point, a c is rotated to straight line L, as shown in Figure 4;
3) make hipline: 18cm makes its parallel lines apart from waistline (WL), and this line is hipline (HL), as shown in Figure 5;
4) make bottom datum line and CB: make the parallel lines of hipline, when making CB extend to this line after underpants head be Lcm, these parallel lines are bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
5) do after in cut-off rule: make as shown in Figure 5 rear middle cut-off rule ghijk, some k be line segment ghij take advantage of a situation prolong after and the intersection point of bottom datum line;
6) determine rear chest measurement size: rear panel BL BUST LINE he is extended to a f, make line segment hf equal B/4, as shown in Figure 5;
7) make front center line: cross a some o and make the vertical line of bottom datum line and prolong 0.5cm to putting z, as shown in Figure 5;
8) make the anter datum line: cross the parallel lines that some z is HL, cross the vertical line that some d makes bottom datum line, two lines going cross each other are in a u, as shown in Figure 5;
9) make the rear panel datum line: cross the vertical line that some f makes bottom datum line, intersect at a v with bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
10) lift 1cm on the back porch point: sheet point S makes vertical line upwards to putting S later
b, the long 1cm of vertical line, as shown in figure 14;
11) back porch line: tie point l and some S
b, as shown in figure 14;
12) determine datum line in the rear panel sleeve: cross some S
bAs length be SL straight line namely after datum line in the sleeve, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
1Angle is β, and another end points of datum line is t in the sleeve
3, as shown in figure 14;
13) make rear panel BICEP line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some t
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting G, line segment Gt
1Length be 2B/10+1, as shown in figure 14;
14) do rear panel cuff datum line: cross some t
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting r
3, line segment r
3t
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 14;
15) do seam datum line at the bottom of the rear sleeve: tie point G and some r
3, as shown in figure 14;
16) make rear panel sleeve elbow line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some t
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and line segment Gr
3Intersect at a r
2As shown in figure 14;
17) determine rear armpit point Q
0: take a h as the center of circle, 17.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section hf in a b, crosses some b and upwards makes the vertical line of hf in a Q
0, Q
0The distance of b is 3.4cm, as shown in figure 14;
18) make rear panel latasuture line: tie point Q
0With a G, with Q
0Be the center of circle, Q
0G is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line fv in a H, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment kv0.5cm
2, tie point H and some I, tie point I and some p prolong line segment Ip and L
2Intersect at a V, as shown in figure 14;
19) make the rear panel hipline: some w is the trisection point of line segment kv, and with camber line tie point w and some V, camber line wV is perpendicular to line segment IV, as shown in figure 14;
20) make the rear panel provincial highway: the mid point A that makes line segment iI
b, cross some A
bMake the vertical line of line segment iI, meet at an o with hipline
4, continuation upwards prolonged 2cm in an o after this vertical line and hH intersected
3, some o
3For economizing cusp.With an A
bFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment iI respectively
1With an o
2, connect o
1o
3, o
2o
3, o
1o
4, o
2o
4, as shown in figure 14;
21) determine after limb point Q: with a Q
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm is (comprising sector boundary) any selection a bit as rear limb point Q, as shown in figure 15 in the radius blind sector zone;
22) the outer 1cm of putting of crop point: cross anter point S and do horizontal line L
3, at straight line L
31 S of upper work
f, make a S
fDistance to some S is 1cm, as shown in figure 16;
23) crop line: tie point m and some S
f, as shown in figure 16;
24) determine datum line in the anter sleeve: cross some S
fBe that the straight line of SL is datum line in the foresleeve as length, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
3Angle is α, and another end points of datum line is x in the sleeve
3, as shown in figure 16;
25) make anter BICEP line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some x
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting K, line segment Kx
1Length be 2B/10-1, as shown in figure 16;
26) do anter cuff datum line: cross some x
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting y
3, line segment x
3y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 16;
27) do seam datum line at the bottom of the foresleeve: tie point K and some y
3, as shown in figure 16;
28) make anter sleeve elbow line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some x
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and Ky
3Intersect at a y
2, as shown in figure 16;
29) make the anter BL BUST LINE: a mistake point d is dn and hangs down as for the oz straight line, and straight line dn and straight line co intersect at a n, as shown in figure 16;
30) determine front armpit point P
0: take a n as the center of circle, 16.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section dn in an a, crosses some a and upwards makes the vertical line of dn in a P
0, P
0The distance of a is 4cm, as shown in figure 16;
31) make anter latasuture line: tie point P
0With a K, with P
0Be the center of circle, P
0K is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line du in a J, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment uz1cm
4, tie point J and some L, tie point L and some q prolong line segment Lq and straight line L
4Meet at a U, as shown in figure 16;
32) make the anter hipline: some e is the trisection point of line segment uz, and with camber line tie point e and some U, camber line eU is perpendicular to line segment LU, as shown in figure 16;
33) make the anter provincial highway: cross the vertical line that the BP point is made line segment oL, meet at an A with line segment oL
f, meet at an o with hipline
5, meet at a R with line segment uz.With an A
fFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment oL respectively
6With an o
7, connect o
7BP, o
6BP, o
5o
6, o
5o
7, as shown in figure 16;
34) determine anter chest dart: tie point J and BP point, the difference DELTA of calculating line segment JL (anter) and line segment HI (rear panel).Take a J as the center of circle, Δ draws arc and line segment JL meets at a T as radius, tie point T and BP point, as shown in figure 16;
35) the anter chest is economized and is shifted: with shadow region (T-BP-o
6-o
5-R-e-U-L-T) be rotated with the BP point, line segment JBP is overlapped with line segment TBP, some J overlaps substantially with some T, as shown in figure 17;
36) determine before limb point P: with a P
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm be in the blind sector zone of radius (comprising sector boundary) select a bit as front limb point P, as shown in figure 18 arbitrarily;
37) proofread and correct front and back latasuture line: rear panel line segment Gr
3Meet at a N with line segment HI.At anter line segment JL intercepting line segment ML, make line segment ML equal rear panel line segment NI, tie point M and some y
3, as shown in figure 19;
38) make rear panel limb shearing line: tie point Q and some N.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment QN0.5cm, meet at a N with line segment HI ", with line segment Gr
3Meet at a N '.The vertical line that range points Q2cm makes QN meets at a Q ' and some Q with the two-way parallel lines of QN respectively ".Adjust the position of some N ', make Q ' N '=Q " N " and Q ' N ' //Q " N ", tie point N ' and some r
3, as shown in figure 20;
39) make anter limb shearing line: tie point P and some M.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment PM0.5cm, meet at a M with line segment JL ", with line segment My
3Meet at a M '.The vertical line that range points P2cm makes PM meets at a P ' and some P with the two-way parallel lines of PM respectively ".Adjust the position of some M ', make P ' M '=P " M " and P ' M ' //P " M ", tie point M ' and some y
3, as shown in figure 20;
40) the fit limb of prediction connects the sound attitude counterbalance effect of body sleeve: x
2=P ' M '=P " M ", x
3=Q ' N '=Q " N ", x
1The limb width, x
1Get 10cm.With x
1, x
2, x
3The following correlation formula of substitution,
Y1 (static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate)=2.139-0.012x
1-0.083x
2-0.034x
3
Y2 (dynamically Comfort Evaluation value)=0.746+0.020x
1-0.012x
2-0.021x
3
Whether judge close to 1 whether corresponding performance is superior according to the y value.The y value is more close to 1, and corresponding effect is better.If the y value is undesirable, limb point position before and after then can redefining, limb plagioclase before and after measuring is with the x that redefines
2, x
3The above-mentioned formula of substitution calculates, and carries out the judgement of correlated performance according to the y value that calculates, and enters follow-up plot step after reaching necessary requirement.
41) make rear panel sleeve center line: with a t
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment t
3r
3Meet at a T
3, tie point t
2With a T
3, as shown in figure 20;
42) make anter sleeve center line: with an x
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
3y
3Meet at an X
3, tie point x
2With an X
3, as shown in figure 20;
43) make rear panel cuff line: make line segment R
3T
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line t
2T
3, line segment R
3T
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 20;
44) make rear panel sleeve end suture: tie point N ' and some R
3, with line segment t
2r
2Extended line meet at a R
2, with a R
2For the center of circle, 0.8cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment R
2t
2Meet at a R
2', tie point N ' and some R
2', tie point R
2' and some R
3, as shown in figure 20;
45) make anter cuff line: make line segment X
3Y
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line x
2X
3, line segment X
3Y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 20;
46) make anter sleeve end suture: tie point M ' and some Y
3, with line segment x
2y
2Meet at a Y
2, with a Y
2For the center of circle, 0.5cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
2Y
2Meet at a Y
2', tie point M ' and point
Y2', tie point Y
2' and some Y
3, as shown in figure 20;
47) check front and back sheet sleeve end suture: adjust respectively a some R
3With a Y
3, make camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3And the front and back sleeve opening is constant, and as shown in figure 20, some R3 is adjusted to a R
3' position, camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3', tie point R
2' and some R
3';
48) draw along anter shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 20 anter is put S
fPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
49) draw along rear panel shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 20 rear panel is put S
bPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
50) check front and back shoulder sleeve camber line: measure respectively crop sleeve camber line m-x
1-x
2-X
3With the length of back porch sleeve camber line l-t1-t2-T3, calculate the difference ◎ of two arc length, general back porch sleeve camber line is longer than crop sleeve camber line;
51) make the back neck line: take rear panel point l as the center of circle, (◎-0.3) cm draws arc as radius and meets at a D in the back porch line, such as Figure 20 tie point g and some D, 0.3 is rear shoulder seam contracting amount;
52) make front neckline line: if neckline is wide and neckline is deeply all constant, then anter point m and some c are motionless, draw suitable neckline line and get final product, as shown in figure 20;
53) draw limb width datum line: make a horizontal line section ab, the length of line segment ab is limb width x1=10, as shown in figure 11;
54) make the vertical line of limb width datum line: make the vertical line segment ab of a straight line L, straight line L and line segment ab meet at an o and some o is the mid point of line segment ab, as shown in figure 11;
55) do before the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, P ' M ' (anter) draws arc for radius and meets at a c with straight line L, tie point a and some c, tie point b with put c, as shown in figure 12;
56) do after the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, Q ' N ' (rear panel) draws arc for radius and meets at a d with straight line L, tie point a and some d, tie point b with put d, as shown in figure 12;
57) do before and after the limb base: take an o as the center of circle, 0.6cm draws arc as radius and meets at respectively an e and put f with straight line L, tie point a-e-b, tie point a-f-b, as shown in figure 12;
58) repainting anter chest waist economizes: take the BP point as the center of circle, 3cm draws arc and straight line BPA as radius
fMeet at an o
8Point, tie point o
8And o
7, tie point o
8And o
6, as shown in figure 21;
59) draw warp direction: draw warp at anter, rear panel, sheet limb structure chart empty place, front and back, as shown in figure 21;
The present invention is by arranging the limb structural parameters, dopes fit limb and connects body tuck inside the sleeve static aesthetic property and the dynamic counterbalance effect of comfortableness, and be convenient to obtain a pair and connect body sleeve example edition based on the fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect; The limb structural parameters that give simultaneously sound attitude counterbalance effect the best are interval, can effectively increase work efficiency.
The present invention is compared with prior art:
1. identical point: 1) compare with additive method, it is identical that the parameter that relevant fit limb connects the body sleeve arranges the position: for example chest measurement, waistline, hip circumference, sleeve mountain are high.
2) clothes structure based on the Basic paper pattern method designs: drawing step of the present invention is all drawn on the basis based on Japanese Culture formula prototype, and shirtfront province provincial highway is transferred to waist province.
3) limb form: general limb body sleeve all has limb.Limb among the present invention is the triangle limb, and the triangle base is arc.
2. difference: 1) limb construction design method: front and back limb point is take the datum mark of armpit point in front and back as changing; It is isometric definite by clothing body balance and front and back structure line that a position is cut off in the oxter; The length of line was a little cut off in limb point and oxter before and after front and back limb hypotenuse length equaled respectively.
2) the present invention is based on static aesthetic property and dynamically comfortableness two aspects fit limb connected the body sleeve carry out structural design.
3) the present invention is by arranging the limb structural parameters, has the fit limb of prediction and connects body tuck inside the sleeve static aesthetic property and the dynamic function of comfortableness counterbalance effect.
4) the invention provides the limb method for platemaking that fit limb connects body sleeve sound attitude counterbalance effect the best
Beneficial effect
1) the present invention connects body sleeve take limb as point of penetration to zoarium and inquires into, and takes into full account aesthetic property in human upper limb architectural feature and the moulding and the comfortableness in the dress.Use this method can obtain a pair and connect body sleeve example edition based on the fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect.This achievement in research helps to hold better the relation between human upper limb feature and the sleeve structure, and not only having enriched the woman, to connect the body sleeve structure design theoretical, and the woman is connected the body sleeve structure design has certain directive significance and evocation.
2) feature of the present invention also is by the limb structural parameters are arranged, have the fit limb of prediction and connect body tuck inside the sleeve static aesthetic property and the dynamic function of comfortableness counterbalance effect, conveniently obtain a pair and connect body sleeve example edition based on the fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect; The limb structural parameters that give simultaneously sound attitude counterbalance effect the best are interval, can effectively increase work efficiency.
3) the present invention has reduced the structural design difficulty that fit limb connects the body sleeve, and simple to operate, quickness and high efficiency requires low to plate-making technology and correlation experience.
4) growing along with clothing information, digitizing technique, urgent need is come out of from traditional apparel construction research method, method with science is concluded experience in the past, use mathematical tool, set up the structure applications model, sum up universal law, and universal law is summarized and quantitative description, thereby the Clothing Structure Design that forms system is theoretical, from new height Guiding Practice.Therefore, the meaning of this method is that also the Auto that connects body sleeve example edition for fit limb provides front-end technology support and necessary theoretical foundation.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 limb structural parameters:
The decisive factor that Fig. 2 limb hypotenuse is long;
The fit limb that Fig. 3～12 have the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect connects body sleeve structure design decomposition chart;
The fit limb that Figure 13 has the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect connects body sleeve complete structure figure;
The fit limb of Figure 14～20 sound attitude counterbalance effect the bests connects body sleeve structure design decomposition chart;
The fit limb of Figure 21 sound attitude counterbalance effect the best connects body sleeve complete structure figure;
The fit limb of Figure 22 connects body sleeve plane style figure;
The fit limb that Figure 23 has the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect connects body sleeve ready-made clothes effect figure;
The fit limb of Figure 24 sound attitude counterbalance effect the best connects body sleeve ready-made clothes effect figure.
The fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect of Figure 25～27 embodiment of the invention 2 connects body sleeve structure design decomposition chart;
The fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect of Figure 28 embodiment of the invention 2 connects body sleeve complete structure figure;
The fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect of Figure 29～31 embodiment of the invention 3 connects body sleeve structure design decomposition chart;
The fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect of Figure 32 embodiment of the invention 3 connects body sleeve complete structure figure;
The fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect the best of Figure 33～35 embodiment of the invention 4 connects body sleeve structure design decomposition chart;
The fit limb of Figure 36 embodiment of the invention 4 sound attitude counterbalance effect the bests connects body sleeve complete structure figure;
The fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect the best of Figure 37～39 embodiment of the invention 5 connects body sleeve structure design decomposition chart;
The fit limb of Figure 40 embodiment of the invention 5 sound attitude counterbalance effect the bests connects body sleeve complete structure figure;
The fit limb of Figure 41～43 embodiment of the invention, 6 sound attitude counterbalance effect the bests connects body sleeve structure design decomposition chart;
The fit limb of Figure 44 embodiment of the invention 6 sound attitude counterbalance effect the bests connects body sleeve complete structure figure.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.Should be understood that these embodiment only to be used for explanation the present invention and be not used in and limit the scope of the invention.Should be understood that in addition those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications the present invention after the content of having read the present invention's instruction, these equivalent form of values fall within the application's appended claims limited range equally.
In conjunction with given specification, the fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect is connected body sleeve method for platemaking applying step be described in detail.Concrete specification is as follows:
Table 1 sample clothing specification
Unit: cm
| Chest measurement B | Waistline W | Hip circumference H | Shoulder breadth S | The long L of rear underpants | Sleeve length SL | Cuff CW |
| 92 | 74 | 96 | 39 | 58 | 52 | 13 |
The sleeve high 15cm that gets in mountain, the foresleeve gradient is got 45 °, and rear sleeve gradient is got 40 °, and the limb width is 8cm.
Main drawing step is as follows:
1) place prototype: prepare Japanese Culture formula or Chinese style or Western-style prototype example edition, whole fit limb connects the body sleeve structure design and draws in Japanese Culture formula or Chinese style or Western-style prototype basis.Just dividing opening with anter and rear panel, anter waistline (WL) aligns with the rear panel waistline, anter point a and rear panel point b distance 〉=60cm, as shown in Figure 3;
2) make 1cm and cast aside chest: anter line segment co is front center line, makes parallel lines L in line segment co left side apart from its 1cm.Anter is rotated counterclockwise take an o as basic point, a c is rotated to straight line L, as shown in Figure 4;
3) make hipline: 18cm makes its parallel lines apart from waistline (WL), and this line is hipline (HL), as shown in Figure 5;
4) make bottom datum line and CB: make the parallel lines of hipline, when making CB extend to this line after underpants head be Lcm, these parallel lines are bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
5) do after in cut-off rule: make as shown in Figure 5 rear middle cut-off rule ghijk, some k be line segment ghij take advantage of a situation prolong after and the intersection point of bottom datum line;
6) determine rear chest measurement size: rear panel BL BUST LINE he is extended to a f, make line segment hf equal B/4, as shown in Figure 5;
7) make front center line: cross a some o and make the vertical line of bottom datum line and prolong 0.5cm to putting z, as shown in Figure 5;
8) make the anter datum line: cross the parallel lines that some z is HL, cross the vertical line that some d makes bottom datum line, two lines going cross each other are in a u, as shown in Figure 5;
9) make the rear panel datum line: cross the vertical line that some f makes bottom datum line, intersect at a v with bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
10) lift 1cm on the back porch point: sheet point S makes vertical line upwards to putting S later
b, the long 1cm of vertical line, as shown in Figure 6;
11) back porch line: tie point l and some S
b, as shown in Figure 6;
12) determine datum line in the rear panel sleeve: cross some S
bAs length be SL straight line namely after datum line in the sleeve, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
1Angle is β, and another end points of datum line is t in the sleeve
3, as shown in Figure 6;
13) make rear panel BICEP line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some t
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting G, line segment Gt
1Length be 2B/10+1, as shown in Figure 6;
14) do rear panel cuff datum line: cross some t
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting r
3, line segment r
3t
3Length be CW+1, as shown in Figure 6;
15) do seam datum line at the bottom of the rear sleeve: tie point G and some r
3, as shown in Figure 6;
16) make rear panel sleeve elbow line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some t
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and line segment Gr
3Intersect at a r
2As shown in Figure 6;
17) determine rear armpit point Q
0: take a h as the center of circle, 17.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section hf in a b, crosses some b and upwards makes the vertical line of hf in a Q
0, Q
0The distance of b is 3.4cm, as shown in Figure 6;
18) determine after limb point Q: with a Q
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects arbitrarily in the circle of radius a bit as rear limb point Q, and this example selects rear armpit point as rear limb point, namely puts Q and center of circle Q
0Overlap, as shown in Figure 6;
19) make rear panel latasuture line: tie point Q
0With a G, with Q
0Be the center of circle, Q
0G is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line fv in a H, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment kv0.5cm
2, tie point H and some I, tie point I and some p prolong line segment Ip and L
2Intersect at a V, as shown in Figure 6;
20) make the rear panel hipline: some w is the trisection point of line segment kv, and with camber line tie point w and some V, camber line wV is perpendicular to line segment IV, as shown in Figure 6;
21) make the rear panel provincial highway: the mid point A that makes line segment iI
b, cross some A
bMake the vertical line of line segment iI, meet at an o with hipline
4, continuation upwards prolonged 2cm in an o after this vertical line and hH intersected
3, some o
3For economizing cusp.With an A
bFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment iI respectively
1With an o
2, connect o
1o
3, o
2o
3, o
1o
4, o
2o
4, as shown in Figure 6;
22) the outer 1cm of putting of crop point: cross anter point S and do horizontal line L
3, at straight line L
31 S of upper work
f, make a S
fDistance to some S is 1cm, as shown in Figure 7;
23) crop line: tie point m and some S
f, as shown in Figure 7;
24) determine datum line in the anter sleeve: cross some S
fBe that the straight line of SL is datum line in the foresleeve as length, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
3Angle is α, and another end points of datum line is x in the sleeve
3, as shown in Figure 7;
25) make anter BICEP line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some x
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting K, line segment Kx
1Length be 2B/10-1, as shown in Figure 7;
26) do anter cuff datum line: cross some x
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting y
3, line segment x
3y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in Figure 7;
27) do seam datum line at the bottom of the foresleeve: tie point K and some y
3, as shown in Figure 7;
28) make anter sleeve elbow line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some x
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and Ky
3Intersect at a y
2, as shown in Figure 7;
29) make the anter BL BUST LINE: a mistake point d is dn and hangs down as for the oz straight line, and straight line dn and straight line co intersect at a n, as shown in Figure 7;
30) determine front armpit point P
0: take a n as the center of circle, 16.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section dn in an a, crosses some a and upwards makes the vertical line of dn in a P
0, P
0The distance of a is 4cm, as shown in Figure 7;
31) determine before limb point P: with a P
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects arbitrarily in the circle of radius a bit as front limb point P, and this example selects front armpit point as front limb point, namely puts P and center of circle P
0Overlap, as shown in Figure 7;
32) make anter latasuture line: tie point P
0With a K, with P
0Be the center of circle, P
0K is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line du in a J, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment uz1cm
4, tie point J and some L, tie point L and some q prolong line segment Lq and straight line L
4Meet at a U, as shown in Figure 7;
33) make the anter hipline: some e is the trisection point of line segment uz, and with camber line tie point e and some U, camber line eU is perpendicular to line segment LU, as shown in Figure 7;
34) make the anter provincial highway: cross the vertical line that the BP point is made line segment oL, meet at an A with line segment oL
f, meet at an o with hipline
5, meet at a R with line segment uz.With an A
fFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment oL respectively
6With an o
7, connect o
7BP, o
6BP, o
5o
6, o
5o
7, as shown in Figure 7;
35) determine anter chest dart: tie point J and BP point, the difference DELTA of calculating line segment JL (anter) and line segment HI (rear panel).Take a J as the center of circle, Δ draws arc and line segment JL meets at a T as radius, tie point T and BP point, as shown in Figure 7;
36) the anter chest is economized and is shifted: with shadow region (T-BP-o
6-o
5-R-e-U-L-T) be rotated with the BP point, line segment JBP is overlapped with line segment TBP, some J overlaps substantially with some T, as shown in Figure 8;
37) proofread and correct front and back latasuture line: rear panel line segment Gr
3Meet at a N with line segment HI.At anter line segment JL intercepting line segment ML, make line segment ML equal rear panel line segment NI, tie point M and some y
3, as shown in Figure 9;
38) make rear panel limb shearing line: tie point Q and some N.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment QN0.5cm, meet at a N with line segment HI ", with line segment Gr
3Meet at a N '.The vertical line that range points Q2cm makes QN meets at a Q ' and some Q with the two-way parallel lines of QN respectively ".Adjust the position of some N ', make Q ' N '=Q " N " and Q ' N ' //Q " N ", tie point N ' and some r
3, as shown in figure 10;
39) make anter limb shearing line: tie point P and some M.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment PM0.5cm, meet at a M with line segment JL ", with line segment My
3Meet at a M '.The vertical line that range points P2cm makes PM meets at a P ' and some P with the two-way parallel lines of PM respectively ".Adjust the position of some M ', make P ' M '=P " M " and P ' M ' //P " M ", tie point M ' and some y
3, as shown in figure 10;
40) the fit limb of prediction connects the sound attitude counterbalance effect of body sleeve: x
2=P ' M '=P " M "=11.7cm, x
3=Q ' N '=Q " N "=9.3cm, x
1The limb width, x
1=8cm.With x
1, x
2, x
3The following correlation formula of substitution,
Y1 (static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate)=2.139-0.012x
1-0.083x
2-0.034x
3=0.7557
Y2 (dynamically Comfort Evaluation value)=0.746+0.020x
1-0.012x
2-0.021x
3=0.5703
Whether judge close to 1 whether corresponding performance is superior according to the y value.The y value is more close to 1, and corresponding effect is better.Y1 is that 0.7557 can to predict the static aesthetic property of this sample clothing better, and y2 is that the 0.5703 dynamic comfortableness that can predict this sample clothing is not fine, and the sound attitude counterbalance effect that can judge this sample clothing from y3 is general.If dissatisfied to the y value, limb point position before and after can redefining, the limb plagioclase is perhaps adjusted the limb width, with the x that redefines before and after measuring
1, x
2, x
3The above-mentioned formula of substitution calculates, and carries out the judgement of correlated performance according to the y value that calculates, and enters follow-up plot step after reaching necessary requirement.
41) make rear panel sleeve center line: with a t
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment t
3r
3Meet at a T
3, tie point t
2With a T
3, as shown in figure 10;
42) make anter sleeve center line: with an x
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
3y
3Meet at an X
3, tie point x
2With an X
3, as shown in figure 10;
43) make rear panel cuff line: make line segment R
3T
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line t
2T
3, line segment R
3T
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 10;
44) make rear panel sleeve end suture: tie point N ' and some R
3, with line segment t
2r
2Extended line meet at a R
2, with a R
2For the center of circle, 0.8cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment R
2t
2Meet at a R
2', tie point N ' and some R
2', tie point R
2' and some R
3, as shown in figure 10;
45) make anter cuff line: make line segment X
3Y
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line x
2X
3, line segment X
3Y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 10;
46) make anter sleeve end suture: tie point M ' and some Y
3, with line segment x
2y
2Meet at a Y
2, with a Y
2For the center of circle, 0.5cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
2Y
2Meet at a Y
2', tie point M ' and some Y
2', tie point Y
2' and some Y
3, as shown in figure 10;
47) check front and back sheet sleeve end suture: adjust respectively a some R
3With a Y
3, make camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3And the front and back sleeve opening is constant, and as shown in figure 10, some R3 is adjusted to a R
3' position, camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3', tie point R
2' and some R
3';
48) draw along anter shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 10 anter is put S
fPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
49) draw along rear panel shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 10 rear panel is put S
bPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
50) check front and back shoulder sleeve camber line: measure respectively crop sleeve camber line m-x
1-x
2-X
3With the length of back porch sleeve camber line l-t1-t2-T3, calculate the difference ◎ of two arc length, general back porch sleeve camber line is longer than crop sleeve camber line;
51) make the back neck line: take rear panel point l as the center of circle, (◎-0.3) cm draws arc as radius and meets at a D in the back porch line, such as Figure 10 tie point g and some D, 0.3 is rear shoulder seam contracting amount;
52) make front neckline line: if neckline is wide and neckline is deeply all constant, then anter point m and some c are motionless, draw suitable neckline line and get final product, as shown in figure 10;
53) draw limb width datum line: make a horizontal line section ab, the length of line segment ab is limb width x
1=8cm, as shown in figure 11;
54) make the vertical line of limb width datum line: make the vertical line segment ab of a straight line L, straight line L and line segment ab meet at an o and some o is the mid point of line segment ab, as shown in figure 11;
55) do before the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, P ' M ' (anter) draws arc for radius and meets at a c with straight line L, tie point a and some c, tie point b with put c, as shown in figure 12;
56) do after the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, Q ' N ' (rear panel) draws arc for radius and meets at a d with straight line L, tie point a and some d, tie point b with put d, as shown in figure 12;
57) do before and after the limb base: take an o as the center of circle, 0.6cm draws arc as radius and meets at respectively an e and put f with straight line L, tie point a-e-b, tie point a-f-b, as shown in figure 12;
58) repainting anter chest waist economizes: take the BP point as the center of circle, 3cm draws arc and straight line BPA as radius
fMeet at an o
8Point, tie point o
8And o
7, tie point o
8And o
6, as shown in figure 13;
59) draw warp direction: draw warp at anter, rear panel, sheet limb structure chart empty place, front and back, as shown in figure 13;
In conjunction with given specification, the fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect is connected body sleeve method for platemaking applying step be described in detail.Concrete specification is as follows:
Table 2 sample clothing specification
Unit: cm
| Chest measurement B | Waistline W | Hip circumference H | Shoulder breadth S | The long L of rear underpants | Sleeve length SL | Cuff CW |
| 92 | 74 | 96 | 39 | 58 | 52 | 13 |
The sleeve high 15cm that gets in mountain, the foresleeve gradient is got 45 °, and rear sleeve gradient is got 40 °, and the limb width is 10cm.
Main drawing step is as follows:
1) place prototype: prepare Japanese Culture formula or Chinese style prototype example edition, whole fit limb connects the body sleeve structure design and draws in Japanese Culture formula or Chinese style prototype basis.Just dividing opening with anter and rear panel, anter waistline (WL) aligns with the rear panel waistline, anter point a and rear panel point b distance 〉=60cm, as shown in Figure 3;
2) make 1cm and cast aside chest: anter line segment co is front center line, makes parallel lines L in line segment co left side apart from its 1cm.Anter is rotated counterclockwise take an o as basic point, a c is rotated to straight line L, as shown in Figure 4;
3) make hipline: 18cm makes its parallel lines apart from waistline (WL), and this line is hipline (HL), as shown in Figure 5;
4) make bottom datum line and CB: make the parallel lines of hipline, when making CB extend to this line after underpants head be Lcm, these parallel lines are bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
5) do after in cut-off rule: make as shown in Figure 5 rear middle cut-off rule ghijk, some k be line segment ghij take advantage of a situation prolong after and the intersection point of bottom datum line;
6) determine rear chest measurement size: rear panel BL BUST LINE he is extended to a f, make line segment hf equal B/4, as shown in Figure 5;
7) make front center line: cross a some o and make the vertical line of bottom datum line and prolong 0.5cm to putting z, as shown in Figure 5;
8) make the anter datum line: cross the parallel lines that some z is HL, cross the vertical line that some d makes bottom datum line, two lines going cross each other are in a u, as shown in Figure 5;
9) make the rear panel datum line: cross the vertical line that some f makes bottom datum line, intersect at a v with bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
10) lift 1cm on the back porch point: sheet point S makes vertical line upwards to putting S later
b, the long 1cm of vertical line, as shown in Figure 6;
11) back porch line: tie point l and some S
b, as shown in Figure 6;
12) determine datum line in the rear panel sleeve: cross some S
bAs length be SL straight line namely after datum line in the sleeve, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
1Angle is β, and another end points of datum line is t in the sleeve
3, as shown in Figure 6;
13) make rear panel BICEP line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some t
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting G, line segment Gt
1Length be 2B/10+1, as shown in Figure 6;
14) do rear panel cuff datum line: cross some t
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting r
3, line segment r
3t
3Length be CW+1, as shown in Figure 6;
15) do seam datum line at the bottom of the rear sleeve: tie point G and some r
3, as shown in Figure 6;
16) make rear panel sleeve elbow line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some t
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and line segment Gr
3Intersect at a r
2As shown in Figure 6;
17) determine rear armpit point Q
0: take a h as the center of circle, 17.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section hf in a b, crosses some b and upwards makes the vertical line of hf in a Q
0, Q
0The distance of b is 3.4cm, as shown in Figure 6;
18) determine after limb point Q: with a Q
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects arbitrarily in the circle of radius a bit as rear limb point Q, and this example is put Q position as shown in figure 25;
19) make rear panel latasuture line: tie point Q
0With a G, with Q
0Be the center of circle, Q
0G is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line fv in a H, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment kv0.5cm
2, tie point H and some I, tie point I and some p prolong line segment Ip and L
2Intersect at a V, as shown in Figure 6;
20) make the rear panel hipline: some w is the trisection point of line segment kv, and with camber line tie point w and some V, camber line wV is perpendicular to line segment IV, as shown in Figure 6;
21) make the rear panel provincial highway: the mid point A that makes line segment iI
b, cross some A
bMake the vertical line of line segment iI, meet at an o with hipline
4, continuation upwards prolonged 2cm in an o after this vertical line and hH intersected
3, some o
3For economizing cusp.With an A
bFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment iI respectively
1With an o
2, connect o
1o
3, o
2o
3, o
1o
4, o
2o
4, as shown in Figure 6;
22) the outer 1cm of putting of crop point: cross anter point S and do horizontal line L
3, at straight line L
31 S of upper work
f, make a S
fDistance to some S is 1cm, as shown in Figure 7;
23) crop line: tie point m and some S
f, as shown in Figure 7;
24) determine datum line in the anter sleeve: cross some S
fBe that the straight line of SL is datum line in the foresleeve as length, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
3Angle is α, and another end points of datum line is x in the sleeve
3, as shown in Figure 7;
25) make anter BICEP line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some x
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting K, line segment Kx
1Length be 2B/10-1, as shown in Figure 7;
26) do anter cuff datum line: cross some x
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting y
3, line segment x
3y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in Figure 7;
27) do seam datum line at the bottom of the foresleeve: tie point K and some y
3, as shown in Figure 7;
28) make anter sleeve elbow line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some x
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and Ky
3Intersect at a y
2, as shown in Figure 7;
29) make the anter BL BUST LINE: a mistake point d is dn and hangs down as for the oz straight line, and straight line dn and straight line co intersect at a n, as shown in Figure 7;
30) determine front armpit point P
0: take a n as the center of circle, 16.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section dn in an a, crosses some a and upwards makes the vertical line of dn in a P
0, P
0The distance of a is 4cm, as shown in Figure 7;
31) determine before limb point P: with a P
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects arbitrarily in the circle of radius a bit as front limb point P, and this example is put P position as shown in figure 26;
32) make anter latasuture line: tie point P
0With a K, with P
0Be the center of circle, P
0K is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line du in a J, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment uz1cm
4, tie point J and some L, tie point L and some q prolong line segment Lq and straight line L
4Meet at a U, as shown in Figure 7;
33) make the anter hipline: some e is the trisection point of line segment uz, and with camber line tie point e and some U, camber line eU is perpendicular to line segment LU, as shown in Figure 7;
34) make the anter provincial highway: cross the vertical line that the BP point is made line segment oL, meet at an A with line segment oL
f, meet at an o with hipline
5, meet at a R with line segment uz.With an A
fFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment oL respectively
6With an o
7, connect o
7BP, o
6BP, o
5o
6, o
5o
7, as shown in Figure 7;
35) determine anter chest dart: tie point J and BP point, the difference DELTA of calculating line segment JL (anter) and line segment HI (rear panel).Take a J as the center of circle, Δ draws arc and line segment JL meets at a T as radius, tie point T and BP point, as shown in Figure 7;
36) the anter chest is economized and is shifted: with shadow region (T-BP-o
6-o
5-R-e-U-L-T) be rotated with the BP point, line segment JBP is overlapped with line segment TBP, some J overlaps substantially with some T, as shown in Figure 8;
37) proofread and correct front and back latasuture line: rear panel line segment Gr
3Meet at a N with line segment HI.At anter line segment JL intercepting line segment ML, make line segment ML equal rear panel line segment NI, tie point M and some y
3, as shown in Figure 9;
38) make rear panel limb shearing line: tie point Q and some N.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment QN0.5cm, meet at a N with line segment HI ", with line segment Gr
3Meet at a N '.The vertical line that range points Q2cm makes QN meets at a Q ' and some Q with the two-way parallel lines of QN respectively ".Adjust the position of some N ', make Q ' N '=Q " N " and Q ' N ' //Q " N ", tie point N ' and some r
3, as shown in figure 27;
39) make anter limb shearing line: tie point P and some M.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment PM0.5cm, meet at a M with line segment JL ", with line segment My
3Meet at a M '.The vertical line that range points P2cm makes PM meets at a P ' and some P with the two-way parallel lines of PM respectively ".Adjust the position of some M ', make P ' M '=P " M " and P ' M ' //P " M ", tie point M ' and some y
3, as shown in figure 27;
40) the fit limb of prediction connects the sound attitude counterbalance effect of body sleeve: x
2=P ' M '=P " M "=12.1cm, x
3=Q ' N '=Q " N "=9.5cm, x
1The limb width, x
1=10cm.With x
1, x
2, x
3The following correlation formula of substitution,
Y1 (static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate)=2.139-0.012x
1-0.083x
2-0.034x
3=0.6917
Y2 (dynamically Comfort Evaluation value)=0.746+0.020x
1-0.012x
2-0.021x
3=0.0.6013
Whether judge close to 1 whether corresponding performance is superior according to the y value.The y value is more close to 1, and corresponding effect is better.Y1 is that 0.6917 can to predict the static aesthetic property of this sample clothing general, and y2 is that 0.6013 can to predict the dynamic comfortableness of this sample clothing moderate, and the sound attitude counterbalance effect that can judge this sample clothing from y3 is general.If dissatisfied to the y value, limb point position before and after can redefining, the limb plagioclase is perhaps adjusted the limb width, with the x that redefines before and after measuring
1, x
2, x
3The above-mentioned formula of substitution calculates, and carries out the judgement of correlated performance according to the y value that calculates, and enters follow-up plot step after reaching necessary requirement.
41) make rear panel sleeve center line: with a t
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment t
3r
3Meet at a T
3, tie point t
2With a T
3, as shown in figure 27;
42) make anter sleeve center line: with an x
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
3y
3Meet at an X
3, tie point x
2With an X
3, as shown in figure 27;
43) make rear panel cuff line: make line segment R
3T
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line t
2T
3, line segment R
3T
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 27;
44) make rear panel sleeve end suture: tie point N ' and some R
3, with line segment t
2r
2Extended line meet at a R
2, with a R
2For the center of circle, 0.8cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment R
2t
2Meet at a R
2', tie point N ' and some R
2', tie point R
2' and some R
3, as shown in figure 27;
45) make anter cuff line: make line segment X
3Y
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line x
2X
3, line segment X
3Y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 27;
46) make anter sleeve end suture: tie point M ' and some Y
3, with line segment x
2y
2Meet at a Y
2, with a Y
2For the center of circle, 0.5cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
2Y
2Meet at a Y
2', tie point M ' and some Y
2', tie point Y
2' and some Y
3, as shown in figure 27;
47) check front and back sheet sleeve end suture: adjust respectively a some R
3With a Y
3, make camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3And the front and back sleeve opening is constant, and as shown in figure 27, some R3 is adjusted to a R
3' position, camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3', tie point R
2' and some R
3';
48) draw along anter shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 27 anter is put S
fPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
49) draw along rear panel shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 27 rear panel is put S
bPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
50) check front and back shoulder sleeve camber line: measure respectively crop sleeve camber line m-x
1-x
2-X
3With the length of back porch sleeve camber line l-t1-t2-T3, calculate the difference ◎ of two arc length, general back porch sleeve camber line is longer than crop sleeve camber line;
51) make the back neck line: take rear panel point l as the center of circle, (◎-0.3) cm draws arc as radius and meets at a D in the back porch line, such as Figure 27 tie point g and some D, 0.3 is rear shoulder seam contracting amount;
52) make front neckline line: if neckline is wide and neckline is deeply all constant, then anter point m and some c are motionless, draw suitable neckline line and get final product, as shown in figure 27;
53) draw limb width datum line: make a horizontal line section ab, the length of line segment ab is limb width x
1=10cm, as shown in figure 11;
54) make the vertical line of limb width datum line: make the vertical line segment ab of a straight line L, straight line L and line segment ab meet at an o and some o is the mid point of line segment ab, as shown in figure 11;
55) do before the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, P ' M ' (anter) draws arc for radius and meets at a c with straight line L, tie point a and some c, tie point b with put c, as shown in figure 12;
56) do after the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, Q ' N ' (rear panel) draws arc for radius and meets at a d with straight line L, tie point a and some d, tie point b with put d, as shown in figure 12;
57) do before and after the limb base: take an o as the center of circle, 0.6cm draws arc as radius and meets at respectively an e and put f with straight line L, tie point a-e-b, tie point a-f-b, as shown in figure 12;
58) repainting anter chest waist economizes: take the BP point as the center of circle, 3cm draws arc and straight line BPA as radius
fMeet at an o
8Point, tie point o
8And o
7, tie point o
8And o
6, as shown in figure 28;
59) draw warp direction: draw warp at anter, rear panel, sheet limb structure chart empty place, front and back, as shown in figure 28;
In conjunction with given specification, the fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect is connected body sleeve method for platemaking applying step be described in detail.Concrete specification is as follows:
Table 3 sample clothing specification
Unit: cm
| Chest measurement B | Waistline W | Hip circumference H | Shoulder breadth S | The long L of rear underpants | Sleeve length SL | Cuff CW |
| 92 | 74 | 96 | 39 | 58 | 52 | 13 |
The sleeve high 15cm that gets in mountain, the foresleeve gradient is got 45 °, and rear sleeve gradient is got 40 °, and the limb width is 12cm.
Main drawing step is as follows:
1) place prototype: prepare Japanese Culture formula or Western-style prototype example edition, whole fit limb connects the body sleeve structure design and draws in Japanese Culture formula or Western-style prototype basis.Just dividing opening with anter and rear panel, anter waistline (WL) aligns with the rear panel waistline, anter point a and rear panel point b distance 〉=60cm, as shown in Figure 3;
2) make 1cm and cast aside chest: anter line segment co is front center line, makes parallel lines L in line segment co left side apart from its 1cm.Anter is rotated counterclockwise take an o as basic point, a c is rotated to straight line L, as shown in Figure 4;
3) make hipline: 18cm makes its parallel lines apart from waistline (WL), and this line is hipline (HL), as shown in Figure 5;
4) make bottom datum line and CB: make the parallel lines of hipline, when making CB extend to this line after underpants head be Lcm, these parallel lines are bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
5) do after in cut-off rule: make as shown in Figure 5 rear middle cut-off rule ghijk, some k be line segment ghij take advantage of a situation prolong after and the intersection point of bottom datum line;
6) determine rear chest measurement size: rear panel BL BUST LINE he is extended to a f, make line segment hf equal B/4, as shown in Figure 5;
7) make front center line: cross a some o and make the vertical line of bottom datum line and prolong 0.5cm to putting z, as shown in Figure 5;
8) make the anter datum line: cross the parallel lines that some z is HL, cross the vertical line that some d makes bottom datum line, two lines going cross each other are in a u, as shown in Figure 5;
9) make the rear panel datum line: cross the vertical line that some f makes bottom datum line, intersect at a v with bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
10) lift 1cm on the back porch point: sheet point S makes vertical line upwards to putting S later
b, the long 1cm of vertical line, as shown in Figure 6;
11) back porch line: tie point l and some S
b, as shown in Figure 6;
12) determine datum line in the rear panel sleeve: cross some S
bAs length be SL straight line namely after datum line in the sleeve, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
1Angle is β, and another end points of datum line is t in the sleeve
3, as shown in Figure 6;
13) make rear panel BICEP line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some t
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting G, line segment Gt
1Length be 2B/10+1, as shown in Figure 6;
14) do rear panel cuff datum line: cross some t
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting r
3, line segment r
3t
3Length be CW+1, as shown in Figure 6;
15) do seam datum line at the bottom of the rear sleeve: tie point G and some r
3, as shown in Figure 6;
16) make rear panel sleeve elbow line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some t
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and line segment Gr
3Intersect at a r
2As shown in Figure 6;
17) determine rear armpit point Q
0: take a h as the center of circle, 17.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section hf in a b, crosses some b and upwards makes the vertical line of hf in a Q
0, Q
0The distance of b is 3.4cm, as shown in Figure 6;
18) determine after limb point Q: with a Q
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects arbitrarily in the circle of radius a bit as rear limb point Q, and this example is put Q position as shown in figure 29;
19) make rear panel latasuture line: tie point Q
0With a G, with Q
0Be the center of circle, Q
0G is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line fv in a H, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment kv0.5cm
2, tie point H and some I, tie point I and some p prolong line segment Ip and L
2Intersect at a V, as shown in Figure 6;
20) make the rear panel hipline: some w is the trisection point of line segment kv, and with camber line tie point w and some V, camber line wV is perpendicular to line segment IV, as shown in Figure 6;
21) make the rear panel provincial highway: the mid point A that makes line segment iI
b, cross some A
bMake the vertical line of line segment iI, meet at an o with hipline
4, continuation upwards prolonged 2cm in an o after this vertical line and hH intersected
3, some o
3For economizing cusp.With an A
bFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment iI respectively
1With an o
2, connect o
1o
3, o
2o
3, o
1o
4, o
2o
4, as shown in Figure 6;
22) the outer 1cm of putting of crop point: cross anter point S and do horizontal line L
3, at straight line L
31 S of upper work
f, make a S
fDistance to some S is 1cm, as shown in Figure 7;
23) crop line: tie point m and some S
f, as shown in Figure 7;
24) determine datum line in the anter sleeve: cross some S
fBe that the straight line of SL is datum line in the foresleeve as length, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
3Angle is α, and another end points of datum line is x in the sleeve
3, as shown in Figure 7;
25) make anter BICEP line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some x
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting K, line segment Kx
1Length be 2B/10-1, as shown in Figure 7;
26) do anter cuff datum line: cross some x
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting y
3, line segment x
3y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in Figure 7;
27) do seam datum line at the bottom of the foresleeve: tie point K and some y
3, as shown in Figure 7;
28) make anter sleeve elbow line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some x
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and Ky
3Intersect at a y
2, as shown in Figure 7;
29) make the anter BL BUST LINE: a mistake point d is dn and hangs down as for the oz straight line, and straight line dn and straight line co intersect at a n, as shown in Figure 7;
30) determine front armpit point P
0: take a n as the center of circle, 16.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section dn in an a, crosses some a and upwards makes the vertical line of dn in a P
0, P
0The distance of a is 4cm, as shown in Figure 7;
31) determine before limb point P: with a P
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects arbitrarily in the circle of radius a bit as front limb point P, and this example is put P position as shown in figure 30;
32) make anter latasuture line: tie point P
0With a K, with P
0Be the center of circle, P
0K is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line du in a J, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment uz1cm
4, tie point J and some L, tie point L and some q prolong line segment Lq and straight line L
4Meet at a U, as shown in Figure 7;
33) make the anter hipline: some e is the trisection point of line segment uz, and with camber line tie point e and some U, camber line eU is perpendicular to line segment LU, as shown in Figure 7;
34) make the anter provincial highway: cross the vertical line that the BP point is made line segment oL, meet at an A with line segment oL
f, meet at an o with hipline
5, meet at a R with line segment uz.With an A
fFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment oL respectively
6With an o
7, connect o
7BP, o
6BP, o
5o
6, o
5o
7, as shown in Figure 7;
35) determine anter chest dart: tie point J and BP point, the difference DELTA of calculating line segment JL (anter) and line segment HI (rear panel).Take a J as the center of circle, Δ draws arc and line segment JL meets at a T as radius, tie point T and BP point, as shown in Figure 7;
36) the anter chest is economized and is shifted: with shadow region (T-BP-o
6-o
5-R-e-U-L-T) be rotated with the BP point, line segment JBP is overlapped with line segment TBP, some J overlaps substantially with some T, as shown in Figure 8;
37) proofread and correct front and back latasuture line: rear panel line segment Gr
3Meet at a N with line segment HI.At anter line segment JL intercepting line segment ML, make line segment ML equal rear panel line segment NI, tie point M and some y
3, as shown in Figure 9;
38) make rear panel limb shearing line: tie point Q and some N.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment QN0.5cm, meet at a N with line segment HI ", with line segment Gr
3Meet at a N '.The vertical line that range points Q2cm makes QN meets at a Q ' and some Q with the two-way parallel lines of QN respectively ".Adjust the position of some N ', make Q ' N '=Q " N " and Q ' N ' //Q " N ", tie point N ' and some r
3, as shown in figure 31;
39) make anter limb shearing line: tie point P and some M.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment PM0.5cm, meet at a M with line segment JL ", with line segment My
3Meet at a M '.The vertical line that range points P2cm makes PM meets at a P ' and some P with the two-way parallel lines of PM respectively ".Adjust the position of some M ', make P ' M '=P " M " and P ' M ' //P " M ", tie point M ' and some y
3, as shown in figure 31;
40) the fit limb of prediction connects the sound attitude counterbalance effect of body sleeve: x
2=P ' M '=P " M "=13cm, x
3=Q ' N '=Q " N "=10.7cm, x
1The limb width, x
1=12cm.With x
1, x
2, x
3The following correlation formula of substitution,
Y1 (static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate)=2.139-0.012x
1-0.083x
2-0.034x
3=0.5522
Y2 (dynamically Comfort Evaluation value)=0.746+0.020x
1-0.012x
2-0.021x
3=0.6053
Whether judge close to 1 whether corresponding performance is superior according to the y value.The y value is more close to 1, and corresponding effect is better.Y1 is that 0.5522 can to predict the static aesthetic property of this sample clothing relatively poor, and y2 is that 0.6053 can to predict the dynamic comfortableness of this sample clothing moderate, and the sound attitude counterbalance effect that can judge this sample clothing from y3 is general.If dissatisfied to the y value, limb point position before and after can redefining, the limb plagioclase is perhaps adjusted the limb width, with the x that redefines before and after measuring
1, x
2, x
3The above-mentioned formula of substitution calculates, and carries out the judgement of correlated performance according to the y value that calculates, and enters follow-up plot step after reaching necessary requirement.
41) make rear panel sleeve center line: with a t
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment t
3r
3Meet at a T
3, tie point t
2With a T
3, as shown in figure 31;
42) make anter sleeve center line: with an x
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
3y
3Meet at an X
3, tie point x
2With an X
3, as shown in figure 31;
43) make rear panel cuff line: make line segment R
3T
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line t
2T
3, line segment R
3T
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 31;
44) make rear panel sleeve end suture: tie point N ' and some R
3, with line segment t
2r
2Extended line meet at a R
2, with a R
2For the center of circle, 0.8cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment R
2t
2Meet at a R
2', tie point N ' and some R
2', tie point R
2' and some R
3, as shown in figure 31;
45) make anter cuff line: make line segment X
3Y
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line x
2X
3, line segment X
3Y
3Length be CW-1;
46) make anter sleeve end suture: tie point M ' and some Y
3, with line segment x
2y
2Meet at a Y
2, with a Y
2For the center of circle, 0.5cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
2Y
2Meet at a Y
2', tie point M ' and some Y
2', tie point Y
2' and some Y
3, as shown in figure 31;
47) check front and back sheet sleeve end suture: adjust respectively a some R
3With a Y
3, make camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3And the front and back sleeve opening is constant, and as shown in figure 31, some R3 is adjusted to a R
3' position, camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3', tie point R
2' and some R
3';
48) draw along anter shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 31 anter is put S
fPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
49) draw along rear panel shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 31 rear panel is put S
bPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
50) check front and back shoulder sleeve camber line: measure respectively crop sleeve camber line m-x
1-x
2-X
3With the length of back porch sleeve camber line l-t1-t2-T3, calculate the difference ◎ of two arc length, general back porch sleeve camber line is longer than crop sleeve camber line;
51) make the back neck line: take rear panel point l as the center of circle, (◎-0.3) cm draws arc as radius and meets at a D in the back porch line, such as Figure 31 tie point g and some D, 0.3 is rear shoulder seam contracting amount;
52) make front neckline line: if neckline is wide and neckline is deeply all constant, then anter point m and some c are motionless, draw suitable neckline line and get final product, as shown in figure 31;
53) draw limb width datum line: make a horizontal line section ab, the length of line segment ab is limb width x
1=12cm, as shown in figure 11;
54) make the vertical line of limb width datum line: make the vertical line segment ab of a straight line L, straight line L and line segment ab meet at an o and some o is the mid point of line segment ab, as shown in figure 11;
55) do before the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, P ' M ' (anter) draws arc for radius and meets at a c with straight line L, tie point a and some c, tie point b with put c, as shown in figure 12;
56) do after the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, Q ' N ' (rear panel) draws arc for radius and meets at a d with straight line L, tie point a and some d, tie point b with put d, as shown in figure 12;
57) do before and after the limb base: take an o as the center of circle, 0.6cm draws arc as radius and meets at respectively an e and put f with straight line L, tie point a-e-b, tie point a-f-b, as shown in figure 12;
58) repainting anter chest waist economizes: take the BP point as the center of circle, 3cm draws arc and straight line BPA as radius
fMeet at an o
8Point, tie point o
8And o
7, tie point o
8And o
6, shown in figure 32;
59) draw warp direction: draw warp at anter, rear panel, sheet limb structure chart empty place, front and back, shown in figure 32;
In conjunction with given specification, the fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect the best is connected body sleeve method for platemaking applying step be described in detail.Concrete specification is as follows:
Table 4 sample clothing specification
Unit: cm
| Chest measurement B | Waistline W | Hip circumference H | Shoulder breadth S | The long L of rear underpants | Sleeve length SL | Cuff CW |
| 92 | 74 | 96 | 39 | 58 | 52 | 13 |
The sleeve high 15cm that gets in mountain, the foresleeve gradient is got 45 °, and rear sleeve gradient is got 40 °, and the limb width is 10cm.
Main drawing step is as follows:
1) place prototype: prepare Japanese Culture formula prototype example edition, whole fit limb connects the body sleeve structure design and draws on Japanese Culture formula prototype basis.Just dividing opening with anter and rear panel, anter waistline (WL) aligns with the rear panel waistline, anter point a and rear panel point b distance 〉=60cm, as shown in Figure 3;
2) make 1cm and cast aside chest: anter line segment co is front center line, makes parallel lines L in line segment co left side apart from its 1cm.Anter is rotated counterclockwise take an o as basic point, a c is rotated to straight line L, as shown in Figure 4;
3) make hipline: 18cm makes its parallel lines apart from waistline (WL), and this line is hipline (HL), as shown in Figure 5;
4) make bottom datum line and CB: make the parallel lines of hipline, when making CB extend to this line after underpants head be Lcm, these parallel lines are bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
5) do after in cut-off rule: make as shown in Figure 5 rear middle cut-off rule ghijk, some k be line segment ghij take advantage of a situation prolong after and the intersection point of bottom datum line;
6) determine rear chest measurement size: rear panel BL BUST LINE he is extended to a f, make line segment hf equal B/4, as shown in Figure 5;
7) make front center line: cross a some o and make the vertical line of bottom datum line and prolong 0.5cm to putting z, as shown in Figure 5;
8) make the anter datum line: cross the parallel lines that some z is HL, cross the vertical line that some d makes bottom datum line, two lines going cross each other are in a u, as shown in Figure 5;
9) make the rear panel datum line: cross the vertical line that some f makes bottom datum line, intersect at a v with bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
10) lift 1cm on the back porch point: sheet point S makes vertical line upwards to putting S later
b, the long 1cm of vertical line, as shown in figure 14;
11) back porch line: tie point l and some S
b, as shown in figure 14;
12) determine datum line in the rear panel sleeve: cross some S
bAs length be SL straight line namely after datum line in the sleeve, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
1Angle is β, and another end points of datum line is t in the sleeve
3, as shown in figure 14;
13) make rear panel BICEP line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some t
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting G, line segment Gt
1Length be 2B/10+1, as shown in figure 14;
14) do rear panel cuff datum line: cross some t
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting r
3, line segment r
3t
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 14;
15) do seam datum line at the bottom of the rear sleeve: tie point G and some r
3, as shown in figure 14;
16) make rear panel sleeve elbow line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some t
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and line segment Gr
3Intersect at a r
2As shown in figure 14;
17) determine rear armpit point Q
0: take a h as the center of circle, 17.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section hf in a b, crosses some b and upwards makes the vertical line of hf in a Q
0, Q
0The distance of b is 3.4cm, as shown in figure 14;
18) make rear panel latasuture line: tie point Q
0With a G, with Q
0Be the center of circle, Q
0G is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line fv in a H, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment kv0.5cm
2, tie point H and some I, tie point I and some p prolong line segment Ip and L
2Intersect at a V, as shown in figure 14;
19) make the rear panel hipline: some w is the trisection point of line segment kv, and with camber line tie point w and some V, camber line wV is perpendicular to line segment IV, as shown in figure 14;
20) make the rear panel provincial highway: the mid point A that makes line segment iI
b, cross some A
bMake the vertical line of line segment iI, meet at an o with hipline
4, continuation upwards prolonged 2cm in an o after this vertical line and hH intersected
3, some o
3For economizing cusp.With an A
bFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment iI respectively
1With an o
2, connect o
1o
3, o
2o
3, o
1o
4, o
2o
4, as shown in figure 14;
21) determine after limb point Q: with a Q
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm is that (comprising sector boundary) any selection as shown in figure 33, is put Q and put Q a bit as rear limb point Q in the radius blind sector zone
0Overlap;
22) the outer 1cm of putting of crop point: cross anter point S and do horizontal line L
3, at straight line L
31 S of upper work
f, make a S
fDistance to some S is 1cm, as shown in figure 16;
23) crop line: tie point m and some S
f, as shown in figure 16;
24) determine datum line in the anter sleeve: cross some S
fBe that the straight line of SL is datum line in the foresleeve as length, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
3Angle is α, and another end points of datum line is x in the sleeve
3, as shown in figure 16;
25) make anter BICEP line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some x
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting K, line segment Kx
1Length be 2B/10-1, as shown in figure 16;
26) do anter cuff datum line: cross some x
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting y
3, line segment x
3y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 16;
27) do seam datum line at the bottom of the foresleeve: tie point K and some y
3, as shown in figure 16;
28) make anter sleeve elbow line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some x
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and Ky
3Intersect at a y
2, as shown in figure 16;
29) make the anter BL BUST LINE: a mistake point d is dn and hangs down as for the oz straight line, and straight line dn and straight line co intersect at a n, as shown in figure 16;
30) determine front armpit point P
0: take a n as the center of circle, 16.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section dn in an a, crosses some a and upwards makes the vertical line of dn in a P
0, P
0The distance of a is 4cm, as shown in figure 16;
31) make anter latasuture line: tie point P
0With a K, with P
0Be the center of circle, P
0K is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line du in a J, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment uz1cm
4, tie point J and some L, tie point L and some q prolong line segment Lq and straight line L
4Meet at a U, as shown in figure 16;
32) make the anter hipline: some e is the trisection point of line segment uz, and with camber line tie point e and some U, camber line eU is perpendicular to line segment LU, as shown in figure 16;
33) make the anter provincial highway: cross the vertical line that the BP point is made line segment oL, meet at an A with line segment oL
f, meet at an o with hipline
5, meet at a R with line segment uz.With an A
fFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment oL respectively
6With an o
7, connect o
7BP, o
6BP, o
5o
6, o
5o
7, as shown in figure 16;
34) determine anter chest dart: tie point J and BP point, the difference DELTA of calculating line segment JL (anter) and line segment HI (rear panel).Take a J as the center of circle, Δ draws arc and line segment JL meets at a T as radius, tie point T and BP point, as shown in figure 16;
35) the anter chest is economized and is shifted: with shadow region (T-BP-o
6-o
5-R-e-U-L-T) be rotated with the BP point, line segment JBP is overlapped with line segment TBP, some J overlaps substantially with some T, as shown in figure 17;
36) determine before limb point P: with a P
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm be in the blind sector zone of radius (comprising sector boundary) select arbitrarily a bit as front limb point P, as shown in figure 34, some P with put P
0Overlap;
37) proofread and correct front and back latasuture line: rear panel line segment Gr
3Meet at a N with line segment HI.At anter line segment JL intercepting line segment ML, make line segment ML equal rear panel line segment NI, tie point M and some y
3, as shown in figure 19;
38) make rear panel limb shearing line: tie point Q and some N.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment QN0.5cm, meet at a N with line segment HI ", with line segment Gr
3Meet at a N '.The vertical line that range points Q2cm makes QN meets at a Q ' and some Q with the two-way parallel lines of QN respectively ".Adjust the position of some N ', make Q ' N '=Q " N " and Q ' N ' //Q " N ", tie point N ' and some r
3, as shown in figure 35;
39) make anter limb shearing line: tie point P and some M.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment PM0.5cm, meet at a M with line segment JL ", with line segment My
3Meet at a M '.The vertical line that range points P2cm makes PM meets at a P ' and some P with the two-way parallel lines of PM respectively ".Adjust the position of some M ', make P ' M '=P " M " and P ' M ' //P " M ", tie point M ' and some y
3, as shown in figure 35;
40) the fit limb of prediction connects the sound attitude counterbalance effect of body sleeve: x
2=P ' M '=P " M "=11.7cm, x
3=Q ' N '=Q " N "=9.3cm, x
1The limb width, x
1Get 10cm.With x
1, x
2, x
3The following correlation formula of substitution,
Y1 (static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate)=2.139-0.012x
1-0.083x
2-0.034x
3=0.7317
Y2 (dynamically Comfort Evaluation value)=0.746+0.020x
1-0.012x
2-0.021x
3=0.6103
Whether judge close to 1 whether corresponding performance is superior according to the y value.The y value is more close to 1, and corresponding effect is better.Y1 is that 0.7317 can to predict the static aesthetic property of this sample clothing better, and y2 is that 0.6103 can to predict the dynamic comfortableness of this sample clothing moderate, and the sound attitude counterbalance effect that can judge this sample clothing from y3 is better.If the y value is undesirable, limb point position before and after then can redefining, limb plagioclase before and after measuring is with the x that redefines
2, x
3The above-mentioned formula of substitution calculates, and carries out the judgement of correlated performance according to the y value that calculates, and enters follow-up plot step after reaching necessary requirement.
41) make rear panel sleeve center line: with a t
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment t
3r
3Meet at a T
3, tie point t
2With a T
3, as shown in figure 35;
42) make anter sleeve center line: with an x
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
3y
3Meet at an X
3, tie point x
2With an X
3, as shown in figure 35;
43) make rear panel cuff line: make line segment R
3T
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line t
2T
3, line segment R
3T
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 35;
44) make rear panel sleeve end suture: tie point N ' and some R
3, with line segment t
2r
2Extended line meet at a R
2, with a R
2For the center of circle, 0.8cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment R
2t
2Meet at a R
2', tie point N ' and some R
2', tie point R
2' and some R
3, as shown in figure 35;
45) make anter cuff line: make line segment X
3Y
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line x
2X
3, line segment X
3Y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 35;
46) make anter sleeve end suture: tie point M ' and some Y
3, with line segment x
2y
2Meet at a Y
2, with a Y
2For the center of circle, 0.5cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
2Y
2Meet at a Y
2', tie point M ' and some Y
2', tie point Y
2' and some Y
3, as shown in figure 35;
47) check front and back sheet sleeve end suture: adjust respectively a some R
3With a Y
3, make camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3And the front and back sleeve opening is constant, and as shown in figure 35, some R3 is adjusted to a R
3' position, camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3', tie point R
2' and some R
3';
48) draw along anter shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 35 anter is put S
fPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
49) draw along rear panel shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 35 rear panel is put S
bPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
50) check front and back shoulder sleeve camber line: measure respectively crop sleeve camber line m-x
1-x
2-X
3With the length of back porch sleeve camber line l-t1-t2-T3, calculate the difference ◎ of two arc length, general back porch sleeve camber line is longer than crop sleeve camber line;
51) make the back neck line: take rear panel point l as the center of circle, (◎-0.3) cm draws arc as radius and meets at a D in the back porch line, such as Figure 35 tie point g and some D, 0.3 is rear shoulder seam contracting amount;
52) make front neckline line: if neckline is wide and neckline is deeply all constant, then anter point m and some c are motionless, draw suitable neckline line and get final product, as shown in figure 35;
53) draw limb width datum line: make a horizontal line section ab, the length of line segment ab is limb width x1=10, as shown in figure 11;
54) make the vertical line of limb width datum line: make the vertical line segment ab of a straight line L, straight line L and line segment ab meet at an o and some o is the mid point of line segment ab, as shown in figure 11;
55) do before the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, P ' M ' (anter) draws arc for radius and meets at a c with straight line L, tie point a and some c, tie point b with put c, as shown in figure 12;
56) do after the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, Q ' N ' (rear panel) draws arc for radius and meets at a d with straight line L, tie point a and some d, tie point b with put d, as shown in figure 12;
57) do before and after the limb base: take an o as the center of circle, 0.6cm draws arc as radius and meets at respectively an e and put f with straight line L, tie point a-e-b, tie point a-f-b, as shown in figure 12;
58) repainting anter chest waist economizes: take the BP point as the center of circle, 3cm draws arc and straight line BPA as radius
fMeet at an o
8Point, tie point o
8And o
7, tie point o
8And o
6, as shown in figure 36;
59) draw warp direction: draw warp at anter, rear panel, sheet limb structure chart empty place, front and back, as shown in figure 36;
Embodiment 5, and the fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect the best connects body sleeve method for platemaking and uses (2)
In conjunction with given specification, the fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect the best is connected body sleeve method for platemaking applying step be described in detail.Concrete specification is as follows:
Table 5 sample clothing specification
Unit: cm
| Chest measurement B | Waistline W | Hip circumference H | Shoulder breadth S | The long L of rear underpants | Sleeve length SL | Cuff CW |
| 92 | 74 | 96 | 39 | 58 | 52 | 13 |
The sleeve high 15cm that gets in mountain, the foresleeve gradient is got 45 °, and rear sleeve gradient is got 40 °, and the limb width is 10cm.
Main drawing step is as follows:
1) place prototype: prepare Japanese Culture formula prototype example edition, whole fit limb connects the body sleeve structure design and draws on Japanese Culture formula prototype basis.Just dividing opening with anter and rear panel, anter waistline (WL) aligns with the rear panel waistline, anter point a and rear panel point b distance 〉=60cm, as shown in Figure 3;
2) make 1cm and cast aside chest: anter line segment co is front center line, makes parallel lines L in line segment co left side apart from its 1cm.Anter is rotated counterclockwise take an o as basic point, a c is rotated to straight line L, as shown in Figure 4;
3) make hipline: 18cm makes its parallel lines apart from waistline (WL), and this line is hipline (HL), as shown in Figure 5;
4) make bottom datum line and CB: make the parallel lines of hipline, when making CB extend to this line after underpants head be Lcm, these parallel lines are bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
5) do after in cut-off rule: make as shown in Figure 5 rear middle cut-off rule ghijk, some k be line segment ghij take advantage of a situation prolong after and the intersection point of bottom datum line;
6) determine rear chest measurement size: rear panel BL BUST LINE he is extended to a f, make line segment hf equal B/4, as shown in Figure 5;
7) make front center line: cross a some o and make the vertical line of bottom datum line and prolong 0.5cm to putting z, as shown in Figure 5;
8) make the anter datum line: cross the parallel lines that some z is HL, cross the vertical line that some d makes bottom datum line, two lines going cross each other are in a u, as shown in Figure 5;
9) make the rear panel datum line: cross the vertical line that some f makes bottom datum line, intersect at a v with bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
10) lift 1cm on the back porch point: sheet point S makes vertical line upwards to putting S later
b, the long 1cm of vertical line, as shown in figure 14;
11) back porch line: tie point l and some S
b, as shown in figure 14;
12) determine datum line in the rear panel sleeve: cross some S
bAs length be SL straight line namely after datum line in the sleeve, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
1Angle is β, and another end points of datum line is t in the sleeve
3, as shown in figure 14;
13) make rear panel BICEP line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some t
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting G, line segment Gt
1Length be 2B/10+1, as shown in figure 14;
14) do rear panel cuff datum line: cross some t
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting r
3, line segment r
3t
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 14;
15) do seam datum line at the bottom of the rear sleeve: tie point G and some r
3, as shown in figure 14;
16) make rear panel sleeve elbow line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some t
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and line segment Gr
3Intersect at a r
2As shown in figure 14;
17) determine rear armpit point Q
0: take a h as the center of circle, 17.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section hf in a b, crosses some b and upwards makes the vertical line of hf in a Q
0, Q
0The distance of b is 3.4cm, as shown in figure 14;
18) make rear panel latasuture line: tie point Q
0With a G, with Q
0Be the center of circle, Q
0G is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line fv in a H, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment kv0.5cm
2, tie point H and some I, tie point I and some p prolong line segment Ip and L
2Intersect at a V, as shown in figure 14;
19) make the rear panel hipline: some w is the trisection point of line segment kv, and with camber line tie point w and some V, camber line wV is perpendicular to line segment IV, as shown in figure 14;
20) make the rear panel provincial highway: the mid point A that makes line segment iI
b, cross some A
bMake the vertical line of line segment iI, meet at an o with hipline
4, continuation upwards prolonged 2cm in an o after this vertical line and hH intersected
3, some o
3For economizing cusp.With an A
bFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment iI respectively
1With an o
2, connect o
1o
3, o
2o
3, o
1o
4, o
2o
4, as shown in figure 14;
21) determine after limb point Q: with a Q
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm is (comprising sector boundary) any selection a bit as rear limb point Q, as shown in figure 37 in the radius blind sector zone;
22) the outer 1cm of putting of crop point: cross anter point S and do horizontal line L
3, at straight line L
31 S of upper work
f, make a S
fDistance to some S is 1cm, as shown in figure 16;
23) crop line: tie point m and some S
f, as shown in figure 16;
24) determine datum line in the anter sleeve: cross some S
fBe that the straight line of SL is datum line in the foresleeve as length, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
3Angle is α, and another end points of datum line is x in the sleeve
3, as shown in figure 16;
25) make anter BICEP line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some x
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting K, line segment Kx
1Length be 2B/10-1, as shown in figure 16;
26) do anter cuff datum line: cross some x
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting y
3, line segment x
3y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 16;
27) do seam datum line at the bottom of the foresleeve: tie point K and some y
3, as shown in figure 16;
28) make anter sleeve elbow line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some x
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and Ky
3Intersect at a y
2, as shown in figure 16;
29) make the anter BL BUST LINE: a mistake point d is dn and hangs down as for the oz straight line, and straight line dn and straight line co intersect at a n, as shown in figure 16;
30) determine front armpit point P
0: take a n as the center of circle, 16.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section dn in an a, crosses some a and upwards makes the vertical line of dn in a P
0, P
0The distance of a is 4cm, as shown in figure 16;
31) make anter latasuture line: tie point P
0With a K, with P
0Be the center of circle, P
0K is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line du in a J, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment uz1cm
4, tie point J and some L, tie point L and some q prolong line segment Lq and straight line L
4Meet at a U, as shown in figure 16;
32) make the anter hipline: some e is the trisection point of line segment uz, and with camber line tie point e and some U, camber line eU is perpendicular to line segment LU, as shown in figure 16;
33) make the anter provincial highway: cross the vertical line that the BP point is made line segment oL, meet at an A with line segment oL
f, meet at an o with hipline
5, meet at a R with line segment uz.With an A
fFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment oL respectively
6With an o
7, connect o
7BP, o
6BP, o
5o
6, o
5o
7, as shown in figure 16;
34) determine anter chest dart: tie point J and BP point, the difference DELTA of calculating line segment JL (anter) and line segment HI (rear panel).Take a J as the center of circle, Δ draws arc and line segment JL meets at a T as radius, tie point T and BP point, as shown in figure 16;
35) the anter chest is economized and is shifted: with shadow region (T-BP-o
6-o
5-R-e-U-L-T) be rotated with the BP point, line segment JBP is overlapped with line segment TBP, some J overlaps substantially with some T, as shown in figure 17;
36) determine before limb point P: with a P
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm be in the blind sector zone of radius (comprising sector boundary) select a bit as front limb point P, as shown in figure 38 arbitrarily;
37) proofread and correct front and back latasuture line: rear panel line segment Gr
3Meet at a N with line segment HI.At anter line segment JL intercepting line segment ML, make line segment ML equal rear panel line segment NI, tie point M and some y
3, as shown in figure 19;
38) make rear panel limb shearing line: tie point Q and some N.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment QN0.5cm, meet at a N with line segment HI ", with line segment Gr
3Meet at a N '.The vertical line that range points Q2cm makes QN meets at a Q ' and some Q with the two-way parallel lines of QN respectively ".Adjust the position of some N ', make Q ' N '=Q " N " and Q ' N ' //Q " N ", tie point N ' and some r
3, as shown in figure 39;
39) make anter limb shearing line: tie point P and some M.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment PM0.5cm, meet at a M with line segment JL ", with line segment My
3Meet at a M '.The vertical line that range points P2cm makes PM meets at a P ' and some P with the two-way parallel lines of PM respectively ".Adjust the position of some M ', make P ' M '=P " M " and P ' M ' //P " M ", tie point M ' and some y
3, as shown in figure 39;
40) the fit limb of prediction connects the sound attitude counterbalance effect of body sleeve: x
2=P ' M '=P " M "=10.8cm, x
3=Q ' N '=Q " N "=8.4cm, x
1The limb width, x
1Get 10cm.With x
1, x
2, x
3The following correlation formula of substitution,
Y1 (static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate)=2.139-0.012x
1-0.083x
2-0.034x
3=0.8370
Y2 (dynamically Comfort Evaluation value)=0.746+0.020x
1-0.012x
2-0.021x
3=0.6400
Whether judge close to 1 whether corresponding performance is superior according to the y value.The y value is more close to 1, and corresponding effect is better.Y1 is that 0.8370 can to predict the static aesthetic property of this sample clothing better, and y2 is that 0.6400 can to predict the dynamic comfortableness of this sample clothing moderate, and the sound attitude counterbalance effect that can judge this sample clothing from y3 is better.If the y value is undesirable, limb point position before and after then can redefining, limb plagioclase before and after measuring is with the x that redefines
2, x
3The above-mentioned formula of substitution calculates, and carries out the judgement of correlated performance according to the y value that calculates, and enters follow-up plot step after reaching necessary requirement.
41) make rear panel sleeve center line: with a t
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment t
3r
3Meet at a T
3, tie point t
2With a T
3, as shown in figure 39;
42) make anter sleeve center line: with an x
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
3y
3Meet at an X
3, tie point x
2With an X
3, as shown in figure 39;
43) make rear panel cuff line: make line segment R
3T
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line t
2T
3, line segment R
3T
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 39;
44) make rear panel sleeve end suture: tie point N ' and some R
3, with line segment t
2r
2Extended line meet at a R
2, with a R
2For the center of circle, 0.8cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment R
2t
2Meet at a R
2', tie point N ' and some R
2', tie point R
2' and some R
3, as shown in figure 39;
45) make anter cuff line: make line segment X
3Y
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line x
2X
3, line segment X
3Y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 39;
46) make anter sleeve end suture: tie point M ' and some Y
3, with line segment x
2y
2Meet at a Y
2, with a Y
2For the center of circle, 0.5cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
2Y
2Meet at a Y
2', tie point M ' and some Y
2', tie point Y
2' and some Y
3, as shown in figure 39;
47) check front and back sheet sleeve end suture: adjust respectively a some R
3With a Y
3, make camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3And the front and back sleeve opening is constant, and as shown in figure 39, some R3 is adjusted to a R
3' position, camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3', tie point R
2' and some R
3';
48) draw along anter shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 39 anter is put S
fPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
49) draw along rear panel shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 39 rear panel is put S
bPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
50) check front and back shoulder sleeve camber line: measure respectively crop sleeve camber line m-x
1-x
2-X
3With the length of back porch sleeve camber line l-t1-t2-T3, calculate the difference ◎ of two arc length, general back porch sleeve camber line is longer than crop sleeve camber line;
51) make the back neck line: take rear panel point l as the center of circle, (◎-0.3) cm draws arc as radius and meets at a D in the back porch line, such as Figure 39 tie point g and some D, 0.3 is rear shoulder seam contracting amount;
52) make front neckline line: if neckline is wide and neckline is deeply all constant, then anter point m and some c are motionless, draw suitable neckline line and get final product, as shown in figure 39;
53) draw limb width datum line: make a horizontal line section ab, the length of line segment ab is limb width x1=10, as shown in figure 11;
54) make the vertical line of limb width datum line: make the vertical line segment ab of a straight line L, straight line L and line segment ab meet at an o and some o is the mid point of line segment ab, as shown in figure 11;
55) do before the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, P ' M ' (anter) draws arc for radius and meets at a c with straight line L, tie point a and some c, tie point b with put c, as shown in figure 12;
56) do after the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, Q ' N ' (rear panel) draws arc for radius and meets at a d with straight line L, tie point a and some d, tie point b with put d, as shown in figure 12;
57) do before and after the limb base: take an o as the center of circle, 0.6cm draws arc as radius and meets at respectively an e and put f with straight line L, tie point a-e-b, tie point a-f-b, as shown in figure 12;
58) repainting anter chest waist economizes: take the BP point as the center of circle, 3cm draws arc and straight line BPA as radius
fMeet at an o
8Point, tie point o
8And o
7, tie point o
8And o
6, as shown in figure 40;
59) draw warp direction: draw warp at anter, rear panel, sheet limb structure chart empty place, front and back, as shown in figure 40;
Embodiment 6, and the fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect the best connects body sleeve method for platemaking and uses (3)
In conjunction with given specification, the fit limb of sound attitude counterbalance effect the best is connected body sleeve method for platemaking applying step be described in detail.Concrete specification is as follows:
Table 6 sample clothing specification
Unit: cm
| Chest measurement B | Waistline W | Hip circumference H | Shoulder breadth S | The long L of rear underpants | Sleeve length SL | Cuff CW |
| 92 | 74 | 96 | 39 | 58 | 52 | 13 |
The sleeve high 15cm that gets in mountain, the foresleeve gradient is got 45 °, and rear sleeve gradient is got 40 °, and the limb width is 10cm.
Main drawing step is as follows:
1) place prototype: prepare Japanese Culture formula prototype example edition, whole fit limb connects the body sleeve structure design and draws on Japanese Culture formula prototype basis.Just dividing opening with anter and rear panel, anter waistline (WL) aligns with the rear panel waistline, anter point a and rear panel point b distance 〉=60cm, as shown in Figure 3;
2) make 1cm and cast aside chest: anter line segment co is front center line, makes parallel lines L in line segment co left side apart from its 1cm.Anter is rotated counterclockwise take an o as basic point, a c is rotated to straight line L, as shown in Figure 4;
3) make hipline: 18cm makes its parallel lines apart from waistline (WL), and this line is hipline (HL), as shown in Figure 5;
4) make bottom datum line and CB: make the parallel lines of hipline, when making CB extend to this line after underpants head be Lcm, these parallel lines are bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
5) do after in cut-off rule: make as shown in Figure 5 rear middle cut-off rule ghijk, some k be line segment ghij take advantage of a situation prolong after and the intersection point of bottom datum line;
6) determine rear chest measurement size: rear panel BL BUST LINE he is extended to a f, make line segment hf equal B/4, as shown in Figure 5;
7) make front center line: cross a some o and make the vertical line of bottom datum line and prolong 0.5cm to putting z, as shown in Figure 5;
8) make the anter datum line: cross the parallel lines that some z is HL, cross the vertical line that some d makes bottom datum line, two lines going cross each other are in a u, as shown in Figure 5;
9) make the rear panel datum line: cross the vertical line that some f makes bottom datum line, intersect at a v with bottom datum line, as shown in Figure 5;
10) lift 1cm on the back porch point: sheet point S makes vertical line upwards to putting S later
b, the long 1cm of vertical line, as shown in figure 14;
11) back porch line: tie point l and some S
b, as shown in figure 14;
12) determine datum line in the rear panel sleeve: cross some S
bAs length be SL straight line namely after datum line in the sleeve, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
1Angle is β, and another end points of datum line is t in the sleeve
3, as shown in figure 14;
13) make rear panel BICEP line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some t
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting G, line segment Gt
1Length be 2B/10+1, as shown in figure 14;
14) do rear panel cuff datum line: cross some t
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting r
3, line segment r
3t
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 14;
15) do seam datum line at the bottom of the rear sleeve: tie point G and some r
3, as shown in figure 14;
16) make rear panel sleeve elbow line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some t
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and line segment Gr
3Intersect at a r
2As shown in figure 14;
17) determine rear armpit point Q
0: take a h as the center of circle, 17.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section hf in a b, crosses some b and upwards makes the vertical line of hf in a Q
0, Q
0The distance of b is 3.4cm, as shown in figure 14;
18) make rear panel latasuture line: tie point Q
0With a G, with Q
0Be the center of circle, Q
0G is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line fv in a H, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment kv0.5cm
2, tie point H and some I, tie point I and some p prolong line segment Ip and L
2Intersect at a V, as shown in figure 14;
19) make the rear panel hipline: some w is the trisection point of line segment kv, and with camber line tie point w and some V, camber line wV is perpendicular to line segment IV, as shown in figure 14;
20) make the rear panel provincial highway: the mid point A that makes line segment iI
b, cross some A
bMake the vertical line of line segment iI, meet at an o with hipline
4, continuation upwards prolonged 2cm in an o after this vertical line and hH intersected
3, some o
3For economizing cusp.With an A
bFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment iI respectively
1With an o
2, connect o
1o
3, o
2o
3, o
1o
4, o
2o
4, as shown in figure 14;
21) determine after limb point Q: with a Q
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm is (comprising sector boundary) any selection a bit as rear limb point Q, as shown in figure 41 in the radius blind sector zone;
22) the outer 1cm of putting of crop point: cross anter point S and do horizontal line L
3, at straight line L
31 S of upper work
f, make a S
fDistance to some S is 1cm, as shown in figure 16;
23) crop line: tie point m and some S
f, as shown in figure 16;
24) determine datum line in the anter sleeve: cross some S
fBe that the straight line of SL is datum line in the foresleeve as length, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
3Angle is α, and another end points of datum line is x in the sleeve
3, as shown in figure 16;
25) make anter BICEP line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some x
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting K, line segment Kx
1Length be 2B/10-1, as shown in figure 16;
26) do anter cuff datum line: cross some x
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting y
3, line segment x
3y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 16;
27) do seam datum line at the bottom of the foresleeve: tie point K and some y
3, as shown in figure 16;
28) make anter sleeve elbow line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some x
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and Ky
3Intersect at a y
2, as shown in figure 16;
29) make the anter BL BUST LINE: a mistake point d is dn and hangs down as for the oz straight line, and straight line dn and straight line co intersect at a n, as shown in figure 16;
30) determine front armpit point P
0: take a n as the center of circle, 16.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section dn in an a, crosses some a and upwards makes the vertical line of dn in a P
0, P
0The distance of a is 4cm, as shown in figure 16;
31) make anter latasuture line: tie point P
0With a K, with P
0Be the center of circle, P
0K is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line du in a J, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment uz1cm
4, tie point J and some L, tie point L and some q prolong line segment Lq and straight line L
4Meet at a U, as shown in figure 16;
32) make the anter hipline: some e is the trisection point of line segment uz, and with camber line tie point e and some U, camber line eU is perpendicular to line segment LU, as shown in figure 16;
33) make the anter provincial highway: cross the vertical line that the BP point is made line segment oL, meet at an A with line segment oL
f, meet at an o with hipline
5, meet at a R with line segment uz.With an A
fFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment oL respectively
6With an o
7, connect o
7BP, o
6BP, o
5o
6, o
5o
7, as shown in figure 16;
34) determine anter chest dart: tie point J and BP point, the difference DELTA of calculating line segment JL (anter) and line segment HI (rear panel).Take a J as the center of circle, Δ draws arc and line segment JL meets at a T as radius, tie point T and BP point, as shown in figure 16;
35) the anter chest is economized and is shifted: with shadow region (T-BP-o
6-o
5-R-e-U-L-T) be rotated with the BP point, line segment JBP is overlapped with line segment TBP, some J overlaps substantially with some T, as shown in figure 17;
36) determine before limb point P: with a P
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm be in the blind sector zone of radius (comprising sector boundary) select a bit as front limb point P, as shown in figure 42 arbitrarily;
37) proofread and correct front and back latasuture line: rear panel line segment Gr
3Meet at a N with line segment HI.At anter line segment JL intercepting line segment ML, make line segment ML equal rear panel line segment NI, tie point M and some y
3, as shown in figure 19;
38) make rear panel limb shearing line: tie point Q and some N.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment QN0.5cm, meet at a N with line segment HI ", with line segment Gr
3Meet at a N '.The vertical line that range points Q2cm makes QN meets at a Q ' and some Q with the two-way parallel lines of QN respectively ".Adjust the position of some N ', make Q ' N '=Q " N " and Q ' N ' //Q " N ", tie point N ' and some r
3, as shown in figure 43;
39) make anter limb shearing line: tie point P and some M.Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment PM0.5cm, meet at a M with line segment JL ", with line segment My
3Meet at a M '.The vertical line that range points P2cm makes PM meets at a P ' and some P with the two-way parallel lines of PM respectively ".Adjust the position of some M ', make P ' M '=P " M " and P ' M ' //P " M ", tie point M ' and some y
3, as shown in figure 43;
40) the fit limb of prediction connects the sound attitude counterbalance effect of body sleeve: x
2=P ' M '=P " M "=10.3cm, x
3=Q ' N '=Q " N "=8cm, x
1The limb width, x
1Get 10cm.With x
1, x
2, x
3The following correlation formula of substitution,
Y1 (static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate)=2.139-0.012x
1-0.083x
2-0.034x
3=0.8921
Y2 (dynamically Comfort Evaluation value)=0.746+0.020x
1-0.012x
2-0.021x
3=0.6544
Whether judge close to 1 whether corresponding performance is superior according to the y value.The y value is more close to 1, and corresponding effect is better.Y1 is that 0.8921 can to predict the static aesthetic property of this sample clothing fine, and y2 is that 0.6400 can to predict the dynamic comfortableness of this sample clothing better, and the sound attitude counterbalance effect that can judge this sample clothing from y3 is better.If the y value is undesirable, limb point position before and after then can redefining, limb plagioclase before and after measuring is with the x that redefines
2, x
3The above-mentioned formula of substitution calculates, and carries out the judgement of correlated performance according to the y value that calculates, and enters follow-up plot step after reaching necessary requirement.
41) make rear panel sleeve center line: with a t
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment t
3r
3Meet at a T
3, tie point t
2With a T
3, as shown in figure 43;
42) make anter sleeve center line: with an x
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
3y
3Meet at an X
3, tie point x
2With an X
3, as shown in figure 43;
43) make rear panel cuff line: make line segment R
3T
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line t
2T
3, line segment R
3T
3Length be CW+1, as shown in figure 43;
44) make rear panel sleeve end suture: tie point N ' and some R
3, with line segment t
2r
2Extended line meet at a R
2, with a R
2For the center of circle, 0.8cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment R
2t
2Meet at a R
2', tie point N ' and some R
2', tie point R
2' and some R
3, as shown in figure 43;
45) make anter cuff line: make line segment X
3Y
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line x
2X
3, line segment X
3Y
3Length be CW-1, as shown in figure 43;
46) make anter sleeve end suture: tie point M ' and some Y
3, with line segment x
2y
2Meet at a Y
2, with a Y
2For the center of circle, 0.5cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
2Y
2Meet at a Y
2', tie point M ' and some Y
2', tie point Y
2' and some Y
3, as shown in figure 43;
47) check front and back sheet sleeve end suture: adjust respectively a some R
3With a Y
3, make camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3And the front and back sleeve opening is constant, and as shown in figure 43, some R3 is adjusted to a R
3' position, camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3', tie point R
2' and some R
3';
48) draw along anter shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 43 anter is put S
fPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
49) draw along rear panel shoulder sleeve line: as shown in figure 43 rear panel is put S
bPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
50) check front and back shoulder sleeve camber line: measure respectively crop sleeve camber line m-x
1-x
2-X
3With the length of back porch sleeve camber line l-t1-t2-T3, calculate the difference ◎ of two arc length, general back porch sleeve camber line is longer than crop sleeve camber line;
51) make the back neck line: take rear panel point l as the center of circle, (◎-0.3) cm draws arc as radius and meets at a D in the back porch line, such as Figure 43 tie point g and some D, 0.3 is rear shoulder seam contracting amount;
52) make front neckline line: if neckline is wide and neckline is deeply all constant, then anter point m and some c are motionless, draw suitable neckline line and get final product, as shown in figure 43;
53) draw limb width datum line: make a horizontal line section ab, the length of line segment ab is limb width x1=10, as shown in figure 11;
54) make the vertical line of limb width datum line: make the vertical line segment ab of a straight line L, straight line L and line segment ab meet at an o and some o is the mid point of line segment ab, as shown in figure 11;
55) do before the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, P ' M ' (anter) draws arc for radius and meets at a c with straight line L, tie point a and some c, tie point b with put c, as shown in figure 12;
56) do after the limb plagioclase: take an a as the center of circle, Q ' N ' (rear panel) draws arc for radius and meets at a d with straight line L, tie point a and some d, tie point b with put d, as shown in figure 12;
57) do before and after the limb base: take an o as the center of circle, 0.6cm draws arc as radius and meets at respectively an e and put f with straight line L, tie point a-e-b, tie point a-f-b, as shown in figure 12;
58) repainting anter chest waist economizes: take the BP point as the center of circle, 3cm draws arc and straight line BPA as radius
fMeet at an o
8Point, tie point o
8And o
7, tie point o
8And o
6, as shown in figure 44;
59) draw warp direction: draw warp at anter, rear panel, sheet limb structure chart empty place, front and back, as shown in figure 44.
Claims (2)
1. the fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect connects body sleeve method for platemaking, comprises the following steps:
1) place prototype: prepare the dress model example edition, whole fit limb connects the body sleeve structure design to be drawn on the dress model basis, is just dividing opening with anter and rear panel, and anter waistline (WL) aligns with the rear panel waistline, anter point a and rear panel point b distance 〉=60cm;
2) make 1cm and cast aside chest: anter line segment co is front center line, makes parallel lines L in line segment co left side apart from its 1cm, and anter is rotated counterclockwise take an o as basic point, a c is rotated to straight line L, wherein, some o is the intersection point of front center line and waistline, and some c is the intersection point of collar line and front center line;
3) make hipline: 18cm makes its parallel lines apart from waistline (WL), and this line is hipline (HL);
4) make bottom datum line and CB: make the parallel lines of hipline, when making CB extend to this line after underpants head be Lcm, these parallel lines are bottom datum line;
5) make rear middle cut-off rule: make rear middle cut-off rule ghijk, wherein, some g is the intersection point of collar line and CB; Point h is on BL BUST LINE, and at BL BUST LINE and CB intersection point 0.4cm place to the right; Point i is on waistline, and at waistline and CB intersection point 1cm place to the right; Point j is on hipline, and at hipline and CB intersection point 0.5cm place to the right; Putting k is that line segment ghij takes advantage of a situation prolongation afterwards and the intersection point of bottom datum line;
6) determine rear chest measurement size: rear panel BL BUST LINE hd' is extended to a f, make line segment hf equal B/4, wherein, some d' is the intersection point of back sleeve camber line and latasuture line;
7) make front center line: cross a some o and make the vertical line of bottom datum line and prolong 0.5cm to putting z;
8) make the anter datum line: cross the parallel lines that some z is HL, cross the vertical line that some d makes bottom datum line, two lines going cross each other are in a u, and wherein, some d is the intersection point of front muffs camber line and latasuture line;
9) make the rear panel datum line: cross the vertical line that some f makes bottom datum line, intersect at a v with bottom datum line;
10) lift 1cm on the back porch point: sheet point S makes vertical line upwards to putting S later
b, the long 1cm of vertical line, wherein, some S is the shoulder point;
11) make the back porch line: tie point l and some S
b, wherein, some l is rear panel side neck point;
12) determine datum line in the rear panel sleeve: cross some S
bAs length be SL straight line namely after datum line in the sleeve, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
1Angle is β, and another end points of datum line is t in the sleeve
3
13) make rear panel BICEP line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some t
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting G, line segment Gt
1Length be 2B/10+1;
14) do rear panel cuff datum line: cross some t
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting r
3, line segment r
3t
3Length be CW+1;
15) do seam datum line at the bottom of the rear sleeve: tie point G and some r
3
16) make rear panel sleeve elbow line: with a S
bFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at a t during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some t
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and line segment Gr
3Intersect at a r
2
17) determine rear armpit point Q
0: take a h as the center of circle, 17.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section hf in a b, crosses some b and upwards makes the vertical line of hf in a Q
0, Q
0The distance of b is 3.4cm;
18) determine after limb point Q: with a Q
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects in the circle of radius a bit to make invocation point Q and center of circle Q as rear limb point Q
0Overlap;
19) make rear panel latasuture line: tie point Q
0With a G, with Q
0Be the center of circle, Q
0G is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line fv in a H, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment kv0.5cm
2, tie point H and some I, tie point I and some p prolong line segment Ip and L
2Intersect at a V, wherein, some I is on waistline, and at the intersection point of line segment fv and waistline 1.5cm place left; Point p is on hipline, and at the intersection point of line segment fv and hipline 1cm place to the right;
20) make the rear panel hipline: some w is the trisection point of line segment kv, and line segment kw=2wv, and with camber line tie point w and some V, camber line wV is perpendicular to line segment IV;
21) make the rear panel provincial highway: the mid point A that makes line segment iI
b, cross some A
bMake the vertical line of line segment iI, meet at an o with hipline
4, continuation upwards prolonged 2cm in an o after this vertical line and hf intersected
3, some o
3For economizing cusp; With an A
bFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment iI respectively
1With an o
2, connect o
1o
3, o
2o
3, o
1o
4, o
2o
4
22) the outer 1cm of putting of crop point: cross anter point S and do horizontal line L
3, at straight line L
31 S of upper work
f, make a S
fDistance to some S is 1cm;
23) crop line: tie point m and some S
f, wherein, some m is anter side neck point;
24) determine datum line in the anter sleeve: cross some S
fBe that the straight line of SL is datum line in the foresleeve as length, datum line and horizontal line L in the sleeve
3Angle is α, and another end points of datum line is x in the sleeve
3
25) make anter BICEP line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, λ cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
1, cross some x
1Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting K, line segment Kx
1Length be 2B/10-1;
26) do anter cuff datum line: cross some x
3Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve to putting y
3, line segment x
3y
3Length be CW-1;
27) do seam datum line at the bottom of the foresleeve: tie point K and some y
3
28) make anter sleeve elbow line: with a S
fFor the center of circle, (SL/2+3) cm are that datum line met at an x during radius was drawn arc and tucked inside the sleeve
2, cross some x
2Make the vertical line of datum line in the sleeve, this vertical line and Ky
3Intersect at a y
2
29) make the anter BL BUST LINE: a mistake point d is dn and hangs down as for the oz straight line, and straight line dn and straight line co intersect at a n;
30) determine front armpit point P
0: take a n as the center of circle, 16.3cm is that radius is drawn arc intersection section dn in an a, crosses some a and upwards makes the vertical line of dn in a P
0, P
0The distance of a is 4cm;
31) determine before limb point P: with a P
0Be the center of circle, 1.5cm selects in the circle of radius a bit to make invocation point P and center of circle P as front limb point P
0Overlap;
32) make anter latasuture line: tie point P
0With a K, with P
0Be the center of circle, P
0K is that radius is drawn arc friendship straight line du in a J, upwards makes its parallel lines L apart from line segment uz1cm
4, tie point J and some L, tie point L and some q, wherein, some L and at the intersection point of line segment du and waistline 1.5cm place to the right, puts q on hipline on waistline, and at the intersection point of line segment du and hipline 1cm place left, prolongation line segment Lq and straight line L
4Meet at a U;
33) make the anter hipline: some e is the trisection point of line segment uz, and line segment ez=2eu, and with camber line tie point e and some U, camber line eU is perpendicular to line segment LU;
34) make the anter provincial highway: cross the vertical line that the BP point is made line segment oL, meet at an A with line segment oL
f, meet at an o with hipline
5, meet at a R with line segment uz; With an A
fFor the center of circle, 1.25cm are that radius picture arc meets at an o with line segment oL respectively
6With an o
7, connect o
7BP, o
6BP, o
5o
6, o
5o
7
35) determine anter chest dart: tie point J and BP point, calculate line segment JL(anter) with line segment HI(rear panel) difference △; Take a J as the center of circle, △ draws arc and line segment JL meets at a T, tie point T and BP point as radius;
36) the anter chest economize to shift: the shadow region is rotated with BP point, line segment JBP is overlapped with line segment TBP, some J overlaps substantially with putting T, wherein, the shadow region for tie point T successively, put BP, put o
6, the some o
5, the closed polygon that forms of some R, some e, some U, some L, some T;
37) proofread and correct front and back latasuture line: rear panel line segment Gr
3Meet at a N with line segment HI; At anter line segment JL intercepting line segment ML, make line segment ML equal rear panel line segment NI, tie point M and some y
3
38) make rear panel limb shearing line: tie point Q and some N; Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment QN0.5cm, left side parallel lines and line segment HI meet at a N ", right side parallel lines and line segment Gr
3Meet at a N '; The vertical line that range points Q2cm makes QN meets at a Q ' and some Q with the two-way parallel lines of QN respectively "; Adjust the position of some N ', make Q ' N '=Q " N " and Q ' N ' //Q " N ", tie point N ' and some r
3
39) make anter limb shearing line: tie point P and some M; Make respectively its two-way parallel lines apart from line segment PM0.5cm, right side parallel lines and line segment JL meet at a M ", left side parallel lines and line segment My
3Meet at a M '; The vertical line that range points P2cm makes PM meets at a P ' and some P with the two-way parallel lines of PM respectively "; Adjust the position of some M ', make P ' M '=P " M " and P ' M ' //P " M ", tie point M ' and some y
3
40) the fit limb of prediction connects the sound attitude counterbalance effect y value of body sleeve: x
2=P ' M '=P " M ", x
3=Q ' N '=Q " N ", x
1The limb width, x
1Value is according to style and beautiful and comfortable Location of requirement, and fit limb connects the limb width x of body sleeve
1∈ [8,12]; With x
1, x
2, x
3The following correlation formula of substitution,
Y1 (static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate)=2.139-0.012x
1-0.083x
2-0.034x
3
The dynamic Comfort Evaluation value of y2()=0.746+0.020x
1-0.012x
2-0.021x
3
Whether judge close to 1 whether corresponding performance is superior according to the y value; The y value is more close to 1, and corresponding effect is better; If the y value is undesirable, limb point position before and after then can redefining, the limb plagioclase is perhaps adjusted the limb width, with the x that redefines before and after measuring
1, x
2, x
3The above-mentioned formula of substitution calculates, and carries out the judgement of correlated performance according to the y value that calculates, and enters follow-up plot step after reaching necessary requirement;
41) make rear panel sleeve center line: with a t
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment t
3r
3Meet at a T
3, tie point t
2With a T
3
42) make anter sleeve center line: with an x
3For the center of circle, 1.7cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
3y
3Meet at an X
3, tie point x
2With an X
3
43) make rear panel cuff line: make line segment R
3T
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line t2T
3, line segment R
3T
3Length be CW+1;
44) make rear panel sleeve end suture: tie point N ' and some R
3, with line segment t
2r
2Extended line meet at a R
2, with a R
2For the center of circle, 0.8cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment R
2t
2Meet at a R
2', tie point N ' and some R
2', tie point R
2' and some R
3
45) make anter cuff line: make line segment X
3Y
3Hang down perpendicular to sleeve center line x
2X
3, line segment X
3Y
3Length be CW-1;
46) make anter sleeve end suture: tie point M ' and some Y
3, with line segment x
2y
2Meet at a Y
2, with a Y
2For the center of circle, 0.5cm are that radius is drawn arc and line segment x
2Y
2Meet at a Y
2', tie point M ' and some Y
2', tie point Y
2' and some Y
3
47) check front and back sheet sleeve end suture: adjust respectively a some R
3With a Y
3, make camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3And the front and back sleeve opening is constant, and some R3 is adjusted to a R
3' position, camber line M ' Y
3=N ' R
3', tie point R
2' and some R
3';
48) draw along anter shoulder sleeve line: anter is put S
fPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
49) draw along rear panel shoulder sleeve line: rear panel is put S
bPlace's shoulder line connects with camber line with the center line of being connected;
50) check front and back shoulder sleeve camber line: measure respectively crop sleeve camber line m-x
1x
2X
3With the length of back porch sleeve camber line l-t1-t2-T3, calculate the difference ◎ of two arc length, general back porch sleeve camber line is longer than crop sleeve camber line;
51) make the back neck line: take rear panel point l as the center of circle, (◎-0.3) cm draws arc as radius and meets at a D in the back porch line, tie point g and some D, 0.3 is rear shoulder seam contracting amount;
52) make front neckline line: neckline is wide and neckline is deeply all constant, and anter point m and some c are motionless, draws suitable neckline line and gets final product;
53) draw limb width datum line: make a horizontal line section AB, the length of line segment AB is limb width x
1
54) make the vertical line of limb width datum line: make the vertical line segment AB of a straight line l, straight line l and line segment AB meet at an o and some o is the mid point of line segment AB;
55) do before the limb plagioclase: take an A as the center of circle, P ' M ' (anter) draws arc for radius and meets at a C with straight line l, tie point A and some C, tie point B with put C;
56) do after the limb plagioclase: take an A as the center of circle, Q ' N ' (rear panel) draws arc for radius and meets at a D with straight line l, tie point A and some D, tie point B and some D, wherein, some C and the both sides of putting D and lay respectively at line segment AB;
57) do before and after the limb base: take an o as the center of circle, 0.6cm draws arc as radius and meets at respectively an E and put F, tie point A-E-B, tie point A-F-B with straight line l;
58) repainting anter chest waist economizes: take the BP point as the center of circle, 3cm draws arc and straight line BPA as radius
fMeet at an o
8Point, tie point o
8And o
7, tie point o
8And o
6
59) draw warp direction: draw warp at anter, rear panel, sheet limb structure chart empty place, front and back;
The elementary structure parameter that above-mentioned fit limb connects the body sleeve is:
Chest measurement B=Bcm, waistline W=Wcm, hip circumference H=Hcm, the long L=Lcm of rear underpants, sleeve length SL=SLcm, cuff CW=CWcm, B-W=18cm, H-B=4cm; Sleeve mountain height is λ cm, and the foresleeve gradient is α, and rear sleeve gradient is β; The limb width is x
1, x
1∈ [8,12]; Plagioclase is x before the limb
2, x
2∈ [10.3,13]; Plagioclase is x behind the limb
3, x
3∈ [7.9,10.7];
Static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate is y
1, y
1∈ [0,1]; Dynamically the Comfort Evaluation value is y
2, y
2∈ [0,1]; Sound attitude comprehensive evaluation value is y
3, y
3∈ [0,1].
2. a kind of fit limb with the prediction of sound attitude counterbalance effect according to claim 1 connects body sleeve method for platemaking, and it is characterized in that: the elementary structure parameter that described fit limb connects the body sleeve is:
Chest measurement B=Bcm, waistline W=Wcm, hip circumference H=Hcm, the long L=Lcm of rear underpants, sleeve length SL=SLcm, cuff CW=CWcm, BW=18cm, H-B=4cm.Sleeve mountain height is λ cm, and the foresleeve gradient is α, and rear sleeve gradient is β;
The limb width is x
1=10cm; Plagioclase is x before the limb
2, x
2∈ [10.3,11.7]; Plagioclase is x behind the limb
3, x
3∈ [7.9,9.3];
Static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate is y
1, y
1∈ [0,1]; Dynamically the Comfort Evaluation value is y
2, y
2∈ [0,1]; Sound attitude comprehensive evaluation value is y
3, y
3∈ [0,1];
Above-mentioned steps (18) inserting step (22) is step (21) before; Step (31) inserting step (37) is step (36) before.
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| CN102551252B (en) * | 2012-01-12 | 2014-01-08 | 东华大学 | Method for designing structures of strip-shaped inserts of fit body-linking sleeves for women |
| CN106256276B (en) * | 2016-08-29 | 2017-09-22 | 胡亨有 | Clothes skim the former number design cutting-out methods of BN of door |
| CN106240962B (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2018-06-26 | 晋江海纳机械有限公司 | It is a kind of that the waist of trousers is drawn to enclose insertion angle device |
| CN112273767B (en) * | 2019-07-23 | 2023-08-11 | 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 | Clothing platemaking method based on mechanics principle |
| CN111820514B (en) * | 2020-06-19 | 2022-07-08 | 唐莎 | Universal cheongsam plate making method |
| CN114521706A (en) * | 2022-03-04 | 2022-05-24 | 江西服装学院 | Design method of U-shaped armhole sleeve cap arc line |
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| RU2118500C1 (en) * | 1997-07-01 | 1998-09-10 | Амурский государственный университет | Method for plotting raglan sleeve curve |
| CN1391854A (en) * | 2001-06-20 | 2003-01-22 | 葛俊康 | Determining method for cutting clothes integrated raglan sleeve middle line angle |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| RU2118500C1 (en) * | 1997-07-01 | 1998-09-10 | Амурский государственный университет | Method for plotting raglan sleeve curve |
| CN1391854A (en) * | 2001-06-20 | 2003-01-22 | 葛俊康 | Determining method for cutting clothes integrated raglan sleeve middle line angle |
| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
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