CN102423158A - Templet-making method for garment construction - Google Patents

Templet-making method for garment construction Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102423158A
CN102423158A CN2011104321436A CN201110432143A CN102423158A CN 102423158 A CN102423158 A CN 102423158A CN 2011104321436 A CN2011104321436 A CN 2011104321436A CN 201110432143 A CN201110432143 A CN 201110432143A CN 102423158 A CN102423158 A CN 102423158A
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China
Prior art keywords
human body
garment
data
clothes
template
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Pending
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CN2011104321436A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
张建兴
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Wenzhou Polytechnic
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Wenzhou Polytechnic
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Priority to CN2011104321436A priority Critical patent/CN102423158A/en
Publication of CN102423158A publication Critical patent/CN102423158A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

The invention discloses a templet-making method for a garment construction, which is based on garment human body data. On the basis of a human body basic model, structure lines are directly drawn, the position of the garment construction is arranged, structure data is adjusted, and garment data is labeled. The method comprises the following detailed steps of: (1) drawing the human body basic model according to a human body curve structure combined with a garment size designation; (2) directly drawing structure lines on the human body basic model according to the profile and details of a garment to form a primary templet; and (3) determining the garment data by combining a garment specification, and adjusting the primary templet into a practical templet. The method is based on garment human body data, on the basis of the human body basic model, the structure lines are directly drawn, the position of the garment construction is arranged, the structure data is adjusted, and the garment data is labeled, so the style of a costume design is embodied in the lines of the structural templet more vividly and expressively, the influence of specified data on the structure line form is avoided, and the design style of the structure templet is kept to a greater extent.

Description

The apparel construction plate-making method
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of apparel construction plate-making method, relate in particular to a kind of plane plate-making method according to apparel modeling design apparel construction.
Background technology
In the dress designing field, shape-designing, structural design and technological design have constituted a complete design system, complement each other, indispensable.Structural design is to express apparel modeling through sized data.It is not only the content of the embodiment dress designing moulding of loyalty, also needs creatively project organization, because shape-designing has just showed the outward appearance of clothes, is difficult to express the structure and the syntagmatic of inner.On the other hand, a same moulding structurally has multiple expression way, and the frame mode of selecting to be fit to shows moulding, can make the global design of clothes more perfect, and obtains bigger design expression space.The unreasonable total quality that can reduce clothes of structural design not only can not well embody moulding, also can make next step technology and cause bad influence.
In traditional apparel construction design, the most common is structural design rule of three and prototyping.Rule of three is to be foundation with chest measurement or hip circumference data, through empirical equation, derives the data at other positions.Prototyping is the basic model of drawing clothes, when structural design, on the prototype of having finished, makes amendment, and its basic model places through clothes, is the rebound between clothes and the human body.Relation is difficult to hold between the prototype data of prototyping and the ready-made clothes data.
Traditional apparel construction plate-making method, all with data as the guide, draw the mode of structure line again.Import as making sheet in early stage with the clothing specification data, have influence on the free degree of clothes template, in the framework of template restriction and specification, become an interconnective geometric form of lines that does not have vitality, can't embody the attractive in appearance of clothes.The design sketch that often causes the designer to draw has arrived making sheet teacher there, can be far from each other with the design original intention, influenced the globality of clothes research and development.Therefore, in design and being connected of making sheet, need find a simple and clear and direct method, make design can extend to making sheet and production smoothly, guarantee the continuous perforation that dress designing is developed.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of new apparel construction plate-making method; Use the present invention can be so that the model of drawing has direct visual connection with the design original text; Avoided the influence that produces because of specified data, kept the genuineness of design to a greater extent the structural linetype attitude.
For realizing above-mentioned purpose; Apparel construction plate-making method of the present invention is based on garment somatic data intelligentized, on the basis of human body basic model, directly describes the structure line; Arrange the apparel construction position then; Adjust structured data and mark clothes data again, its concrete steps are: (1), according to the human body curved-surface structure combines garment size drafting human body basic model; (2), according to the direct rendering architecture line on the human body basic model of clothes profile and details, process first template; (3), combine clothing specification to confirm the clothes data, the first template of furnishing is accomplished actual model.
Beneficial effect of the present invention: the present invention is based on garment somatic data intelligentized; On the basis of human body basic model, directly describe the structure line, arrange the apparel construction position then; Adjust structured data and mark clothes data again; Can be more image, vivid style dress designing be embodied in the lines of structure making sheet, avoided the influence that produces because of specified data to the structural linetype attitude, make the structure template keep design style to a greater extent.
Below in conjunction with the accompanying drawing and the specific embodiment the present invention is described further.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is the block diagram of concrete steps of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is the sketch map of the human body basic model of step among Fig. 1 (1).
Fig. 3 is the sketch map of the first template of step among Fig. 1 (2).
The specific embodiment
Like Fig. 1, Fig. 2, shown in Figure 3; A kind of embodiment of apparel construction plate-making method of the present invention, described plate-making method is based on garment somatic data intelligentized, on the basis of human body basic model; Directly describe the structure line; Arrange the apparel construction position then, adjust structured data and mark clothes data again, its concrete steps are:
Step (1): at first, set BL BUST LINE, waistline and hipline, and set the front and back center line, draw the human body basic model in conjunction with garment size according to actual conditions according to the actual conditions of human body curved-surface structure.The human body basic model can be drawn the different proportion size, and general 1:5 size is applicable to structured design phase, and is convenient and swift, holds the whole profile of clothes easily on the whole, is convenient to adjustment and modification; The 1:1 size is applicable to the template the stage of recognition, according to the clothes template of adjusting, confirms final clothes data.
Step (2):, process first template according to the direct rendering architecture line on the human body basic model of clothes profile and details.It is foundation that the first template of present embodiment adopts with the structural form, and range estimation gives anchor point according to the design style, through anchor point; With reference to the direct rendering architecture line of design; Contrast design lines are tentatively adjusted the structure line on form, position, angle, process first template.
Step of the present invention (2) is according to the direct rendering architecture line on the human body type of dress designing profile and details; Make structure line and design original text that direct visual connection arranged; Avoided the influence that produces because of specified data, made the structure template in the genuineness that has kept design to a greater extent to the structural linetype attitude.
Such as the drafting of upper garment, the traditional structure drawing is to get used to line of picture, the position of a fixed line, the for example drafting of nest collaring arc; Often draw horizontal open-neck collar earlier, draw up to neck again, connect two summits then, do the angle separated time again; On the separated time of angle, divide 3 equal portions, connect two summits and 3 equal portions at last, a nest collaring arc is just completed, and wherein will experience 6 steps; Spended time is more, if every line is all like this, stacking up to influence the efficient of structure drawing work to a great extent.And the present invention directly confirms horizontal open-neck collar on the human body basic model, confirms that according to concrete style horizontal open-neck collar tightens up or decontrols, and confirms that according to style up to neck is deeply or shallow; These two point locations; What consider is the relation of clothes and human body, and the concrete shape of actual design, through the range estimation location; Can observe the position and the direction of neck line preferably, this is consistent with the purpose that final ready-made clothes is appreciated for people's vision.Accomplish after the location,, directly draw camber line, refer again to the design original text close examination lines of drawing and on form, position, angle, whether conform to,, accomplish the structure line through constantly adjustment through anchor point.Compare the present invention with the traditional structure drawing and can accomplish basically to settle at one go, directly draw nest collaring arc according to the design profile.
Step (3): combine clothing specification to confirm the clothes data, the first template of furnishing is accomplished actual model.Because of step (2) is the first template that obtains through range estimation, there is deviation between its certainty and the clothing specification data.Thereby need adjust again the model of first drafting.Present embodiment is employed in control position fixed point on the first template; Promptly adopt the method adjustment of fixed point, confirmed the actual specification of clothes, in conjunction with the actual specification of clothes at control position (clothing length, sleeve length, chest measurement, waistline, skirt length, trousers length etc.); Pay close attention to whole template structure; Adjustment structure line makes actual model unified mutually with first model, accomplishes actual model.

Claims (5)

1. apparel construction plate-making method; It is characterized in that: described plate-making method is based on garment somatic data intelligentized, on the basis of human body basic model, directly describes the structure line; Arrange the apparel construction position then; Adjust structured data and mark clothes data again, its concrete steps are: (1), according to the human body curved-surface structure combines garment size drafting human body basic model; (2), according to the direct rendering architecture line on the human body basic model of clothes profile and details, process first template; (3), combine clothing specification to confirm the clothes data, adjust first template, accomplish actual model.
2. apparel construction plate-making method according to claim 1; It is characterized in that: said step (1) is according to the human body curved-surface structure; Set BL BUST LINE, waistline and hipline, and set the front and back center line, draw the human body basic model in conjunction with garment size according to actual conditions.
3. apparel construction plate-making method according to claim 1 and 2; It is characterized in that: said step (2) is foundation with the structural form, and range estimation gives anchor point according to the design style, through anchor point; With reference to the direct rendering architecture line of design; Contrast design lines are tentatively adjusted the structure line on form, position, angle, process first template.
4. apparel construction plate-making method according to claim 1 and 2; It is characterized in that: said step (3) has been confirmed the actual specification of clothes, in conjunction with the actual specification of clothes for control position fixed point on first template; Pay close attention to whole template structure; Adjustment structure line makes actual model unified mutually with first model, accomplishes actual model.
5. apparel construction plate-making method according to claim 3; It is characterized in that: said step (3) has been confirmed the actual specification of clothes, in conjunction with the actual specification of clothes for control position fixed point on first template; Pay close attention to whole template structure; Adjustment structure line makes actual model unified mutually with first model, accomplishes actual model.
CN2011104321436A 2011-12-21 2011-12-21 Templet-making method for garment construction Pending CN102423158A (en)

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103610255A (en) * 2013-10-23 2014-03-05 胡亨有 BZ original number tailoring method of clothing chest expanding piece
CN106510073A (en) * 2016-12-19 2017-03-22 绍兴市博亚服饰有限公司 Personalized garment processing technology
CN106579622A (en) * 2016-12-19 2017-04-26 绍兴市博亚服饰有限公司 Intelligent processing method of customized garment

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3694921A (en) * 1970-08-24 1972-10-03 Sew Fit Co Flat dress form
CN1038925A (en) * 1988-05-16 1990-01-24 黄定山 A kind of tailoring method for clothes
JPH0967711A (en) * 1995-08-28 1997-03-11 Maruga Kk Clothing pattern for measuring use
CN1389165A (en) * 2002-05-24 2003-01-08 广州大学 Garment structure design method
CN101485499A (en) * 2009-01-19 2009-07-22 吴厚林 Trouser suit pattern as well as structure design skill and technique for trouser suit

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3694921A (en) * 1970-08-24 1972-10-03 Sew Fit Co Flat dress form
CN1038925A (en) * 1988-05-16 1990-01-24 黄定山 A kind of tailoring method for clothes
JPH0967711A (en) * 1995-08-28 1997-03-11 Maruga Kk Clothing pattern for measuring use
CN1389165A (en) * 2002-05-24 2003-01-08 广州大学 Garment structure design method
CN101485499A (en) * 2009-01-19 2009-07-22 吴厚林 Trouser suit pattern as well as structure design skill and technique for trouser suit

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103610255A (en) * 2013-10-23 2014-03-05 胡亨有 BZ original number tailoring method of clothing chest expanding piece
CN103610255B (en) * 2013-10-23 2015-01-07 胡亨有 BZ original number tailoring method of clothing chest expanding piece
CN106510073A (en) * 2016-12-19 2017-03-22 绍兴市博亚服饰有限公司 Personalized garment processing technology
CN106579622A (en) * 2016-12-19 2017-04-26 绍兴市博亚服饰有限公司 Intelligent processing method of customized garment

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Application publication date: 20120425