CN111820514B - Universal cheongsam plate making method - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a universal cheongsam platemaking method, which comprises the steps of obtaining the size of a human body; making the back part and the front part of the clothes body; the front piece of the clothes body comprises a front side waist line, a breast space point, a front small shoulder line and a chest dart; the thoracic province is drawn as follows: extending the front side waist line upwards, making a line b vertical to the front side waist line at the breast spacing point, setting the front side waist line intersected with the line b as a line a, then clockwise rotating the line b and the line a by taking a BP point as an axis point until the line a passes through an end point of the front small shoulder line close to the sleeve, and making a line b 'and a'; the line b and the line b' form an included angle which is a chest dart. The chest province is obtained in the process of plate making, and is not guessed, experienced values or a formula; the problems that the existing flat cutting is directly covered with a formula or an empirical value is used, the size of a chest dart is obtained by the formula, the clothes structure always loses balance when the size is not standard, and the three-dimensional cutting is not practical are solved.

Description

Universal cheongsam plate making method

Technical Field

The invention belongs to a clothing pattern making method, and particularly relates to a universal cheongsam pattern making method.

Background

The existing clothing plate making method comprises the following steps: the size of the chest dart is obtained by a formula and touches a standard body, and the method is good, time-saving and labor-saving. However, when the special body is met, the clothes structure always loses balance, the front of the finished clothes is tilted or stirred, the back is curled up, and the armpits of the clothes body are provided with locks.

Some average cuts use empirical values, the size of the chest province is directly obtained from a book, or the chest province can be estimated according to years of practical experience of the user, but the body types of the world are diversified, and the ready-made clothes are the same as the above results when the estimation is wrong only according to the experience.

Some three-dimensional cutting methods are very direct and not easy to be mistaken, and particularly when people stand on a mannequin or a real person to cut the mannequin or the real person, the effect is very visual. However, the mannequin on the market is basically sold as a standard body, and once a customer who meets a special body customizes the mannequin, the construction cost is too high and is unrealistic. And the real person can be cut on the body, so that the user can stand for half an hour, and few clients can move.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention provides a universal cheongsam plate making method, which solves the problems that the size of a chest dart is obtained by a formula by directly sleeving a formula or using an empirical value in the conventional flat cutting, the clothes structure always loses balance when the size is not standard, and the three-dimensional cutting is not practical.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:

a universal cheongsam platemaking method comprises the steps of obtaining the size of a human body; making a back piece and a front piece of the clothes body; the front piece of the clothes body comprises a front side waist line, a breast space point, a front small shoulder line and a chest dart; the chest province is drawn as follows:

the front side waist line is extended upwards, a line b which is perpendicular to the front side waist line is made at the milk space point, the front side waist line which is intersected with the line b is set as a line a,

then, taking the BP point as an axis point, clockwise rotating the line b and the line a until the line a passes through an end point of the front small shoulder line close to the sleeve, and then drawing a line b 'and a' at the moment; at this time, the line b and the line b' form an included angle, the intersection point is a BP point, and the included angle is the thoracic province.

In one possible design, the body dimensions include height H1, shoulder width L1, neck circumference W1, chest circumference W2, net chest circumference B, waist circumference W, abdomen circumference W4, hip circumference W5, abdomen-hip distance J1, hip length J2, front chest width L2, back width L3, BP point depth S, breast distance J3, front body length H2, back body length H3, arm circumference W6, arm circumference W7, and waist line to knee J4, garment length H4 as required; and customizing the bulk K according to the requirement, wherein the bulk K is 4-8 cm.

In one possible design, the plate is made from the back of the body; constructing two straight lines which are vertical to each other in a transverse direction, wherein the straight line in the vertical direction is used as a rear central line, and the straight line in the horizontal direction is used as a rear upper horizontal line; and taking the intersection point of the two straight lines as a starting point, and taking the position with the distance (net B/20+3) cm on the back upper horizontal line as a back collar width line, wherein the back collar width is (net B/20+3) cm.

In one possible design, the back piece of the clothes body also comprises,

drawing a back shoulder oblique line: taking an end point A of the rear neck width line far away from the rear midline as an extension starting point, extending to a position of 15cm, then taking a position of 15cm as a vertical line of the rear neck width line, taking a point B at a position of 5cm downward from the vertical line, taking the connecting point A and the point B as rear shoulder oblique lines, and marking as 15:5 to make a rear shoulder oblique line;

drawing shoulder lines: one end of the shoulder line is horizontally drawn on the back middle line, the other end of the shoulder line is horizontally drawn on the back shoulder oblique line by adopting a fixed length distance of the shoulder width L1/2, the intersection point of the back shoulder oblique lines at the end points of the shoulder line is a point C, the distance between the point A and the point C is the back shoulder, and the line segment AC is the back shoulder line.

In one possible design, the front piece of the clothes body also comprises,

drawing a front upper horizontal line: taking the back upper horizontal line as a reference line and making a front upper horizontal line by upward 1.5cm

Drawing a front midline which is perpendicular to the upper posterior horizontal line and is spaced apart from the posterior midline by a distance greater than the bust W2;

and (3) making a front collar width on the front upper horizontal line, and then drawing a back shoulder oblique line by the same method with the steps of 15: 5.5 making a front shoulder oblique line, making a front small shoulder on the front shoulder oblique line, taking a horizontal line from the upper front horizontal line to the lower BP point depth S as a chest line, and making a milk space line from the front center line to the milk space J3/2 on the front chest line of the front part of the garment body;

in one possible design, the distance from the upper front horizontal line to the lower front body length H2 is plotted as the waist line, the distance from the waist line to the lower abdomen-hip distance J1 is plotted as the abdomen-hip distance line, the distance from the waist line to the lower hip length J2 is plotted as the hip girth line, the distance from the waist line to the lower waist line to the knee J4 is plotted as the knee girth line, and the distance from the upper front horizontal line to the lower garment length H4 is plotted as the garment length line;

the back width, the back bust, the front bust width and the front bust are respectively arranged on the bust lines,

waist province before drawing and waist province after drawing: making vertical lines at each point of the back bust and the front bust to respectively intersect the waist line and the hip line, then respectively collecting 1.5cm of front and back side waists at the intersection point on the waist line, wherein the back waist is W/4-0.5, and the front waist is W/4+ 0.5; the front and back waist provinces are then drawn.

In one possible design, the rear and front garment panels include front and rear armhole lines, and the front armhole lines are formed by:

the intersection point of the line b 'and the line a' is a horizontal line vertical to the central line of the front part of the body, and then the intersection point of the horizontal line and the front side waist line is the lower endpoint of the front sleeve cage line; drawing a front armhole line and a rear armhole line respectively, measuring the circumferences of the front armhole line and the rear armhole line respectively, and determining an armhole deep line according to an arm circumference and a clothes category to be made.

In one possible design, including the smoothing of the side arc, the method is as follows:

respectively making a back body length H3 and a front body length H2 on hip line, respectively connecting a back side waist point and a front side waist point, then making a straight line perpendicular to a knee line and a clothes length horizontal line from the front and back hip points, respectively closing r centimeters of the front and back knee line, wherein r is more than or equal to 2 centimeters and less than or equal to 3 centimeters, then making a straight line from the front and back hip points, passing through the points, respectively closing r centimeters, on the knee line until the clothes length H4 clothes length horizontal line, making an arc along the front and back side sewing lines, making the front clothes length down by 1-2 cm, and then making an arc along the arc down.

In one possible design, including the sleeve plate making, the sleeve plate making process is as follows:

acquiring the length of armholes of the front and rear clothes bodies, making two lines e and f which are perpendicular to each other and intersect at a point O, wherein the line e is an sleeve fat line, the line f is a sleeve middle line, the diagonal line is superposed with the line f, and the distance from the diagonal point to the front sleeve fat line is the length of the armholes of the front clothes body and is called as the slant length of the front sleeve, so as to determine the height of the sleeve mountains, and then making a horizontal line of the sleeve mountains; the distance from the diagonal point to the rear sleeve fat line is the rear armhole length which is called as the rear sleeve slant length, and the arm circumference measured according to the length can be adjusted; dividing the oblique length of the front sleeve into four equal parts, drawing a vertical line with the high level of the sleeve mountains at a point of 1/4, dividing the vertical line into two equal parts, drawing a vertical line with the fertilizer line of the sleeve at a point of 3/4, and dividing the vertical line into two equal parts; the oblique length of the rear sleeve is divided into three equal parts, a point 1/3 is used as a high horizontal line vertical to the sleeve mountains, and the two equal parts are divided on the vertical line; dividing the point from the end point of the back sleeve fertilizer to the point 2/3 of the oblique length of the back sleeve into two equal parts, making the point 1/2 perpendicular to the sleeve fertilizer line, and dividing the perpendicular line into two equal parts; and then wired.

In one possible design, the bulk K is 5 cm.

The invention has the following advantages and beneficial effects:

1. the invention carries out the plate making of the clothes according to the body size, always takes the actual measurement data of the human body as the basis to analyze the body type, and the plate making is carried out according to the method, so that the plate making can be realized in one place, especially, few errors exist in the chest, the sleeves cannot be moved, and the plate making can be carried out universally under the condition that the style is not changed; the chest province is obtained in the process of plate making, and is not guessed, experienced values or a formula;

2. the method for making the sleeves is simple, the arc lines of the sleeve mountains made by adopting the equant method are particularly smooth, and the sleeves are not deformed;

3. the invention saves redundant cutting formulas, time-consuming vertical cutting and time and energy, and is particularly suitable for fast-developing personal custom-made clothes today.

Drawings

The accompanying drawings, which are included to provide a further understanding of the embodiments of the invention and are incorporated in and constitute a part of this application, illustrate embodiment(s) of the invention and together with the description serve to explain the principles of the invention. In the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a schematic illustration of a body of a garment produced by platemaking according to an embodiment of the invention;

figure 2 is a schematic diagram of a sleeve from which an embodiment of the invention is platemade.

Detailed Description

In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the present invention is further described in detail below with reference to examples and accompanying drawings, and the exemplary embodiments and descriptions thereof are only used for explaining the present invention and are not meant to limit the present invention.

It is to be understood that in the description of the present invention, the terms "upper", "vertical", "inside", "outside", and the like, refer to an orientation or positional relationship that is conventionally used for placing the product of the present invention, or that is conventionally understood by those skilled in the art, and are used merely for convenience in describing and simplifying the description, and do not indicate or imply that the device or element referred to must have a particular orientation, be constructed in a particular orientation, and be operated, and therefore should not be considered as limiting the present invention.

It will be understood that when an element is referred to as being "connected," "connected," or "coupled" to another element, it can be directly connected or coupled to the other element or intervening elements may be present. In contrast, when an element is referred to as being "directly adjacent" or "directly coupled" to another element, there are no intervening elements present. Other words describing the relationship between elements should be interpreted in a similar manner.

In the description of the present invention, it should also be noted that, unless otherwise explicitly specified or limited, the terms "disposed," "mounted," and "connected" are to be construed broadly, e.g., as meaning fixedly connected, detachably connected, or integrally connected; can be mechanically or electrically connected; they may be connected directly or indirectly through intervening media, or they may be interconnected between two elements. The specific meanings of the above terms in the present invention can be understood in specific cases to those skilled in the art.

The terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of example embodiments of the invention. As used herein, the singular forms "a", "an" and "the" are intended to include the plural forms as well, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. It will be further understood that the terms "comprises," "comprising," "includes," and/or "including," when used herein, specify the presence of stated features, integers, steps, operations, elements, and/or components, but do not preclude the presence or addition of one or more other features, numbers, steps, operations, elements, components, and/or groups thereof.

It should also be noted that, in some alternative implementations, the functions/acts noted may occur out of the order noted in the figures. For example, two figures shown in succession may, in fact, be executed substantially concurrently, or the figures may sometimes be executed in the reverse order, depending upon the functionality/acts involved.

It should be understood that specific details are provided in the following description to facilitate a thorough understanding of example embodiments. However, it will be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that the example embodiments may be practiced without these specific details. For example, systems may be shown in block diagrams in order not to obscure the examples in unnecessary detail. In other instances, well-known processes, structures and techniques may be shown without unnecessary detail in order to avoid obscuring example embodiments.

Example 1:

as shown in fig. 1, the present embodiment provides a method for making a universal cheongsam plate, comprising obtaining a human body size; making the back part and the front part of the clothes body; the front piece of the clothes body comprises a front side waist line, a breast space point, a front small shoulder line and a chest dart; the chest province is drawn as follows: the front side waist line is extended upwards, a line b which is perpendicular to the front side waist line is made at the milk space point, the front side waist line which is intersected with the line b is set as a line a,

then, taking the BP point as an axis point, clockwise rotating the line b and the line a until the line a passes through an end point of the front small shoulder line close to the sleeve, and then drawing a line b 'and a' at the moment; at this time, the line b and the line b' form an included angle, the intersection point is a BP point, and the included angle is the thoracic province.

In one possible design, the body dimensions include height H1, shoulder width L1, neck circumference W1, chest circumference W2, net chest circumference B, waist circumference W, abdomen circumference W4, hip circumference W5, abdomen-hip distance J1, hip length J2, front chest width L2, back width L3, BP point depth S, breast distance J3, front body length H2, back body length H3, arm circumference W6, arm circumference W7, and waist line to knee J4, garment length H4 as required; and customizing the bulk K according to the requirement, wherein the bulk K is 4-8 cm. For example, the bulk K is 5 cm. For example, taking a set of actual measurements as an example, starting with measurements of body dimensions, the units are centimeters, and the basic parts and dimensions are height 160, shoulder width 39.5, neck circumference 37, chest circumference 87, waist circumference 73, abdominal circumference 84, hip circumference 93, abdominal-hip distance 8, hip length 22, chest front width 34, back width 37, BP point depth 26, breast distance 18, front length 41.5, back length 40, arm circumference 28, arm circumference 42, waist line to knee 58, and garment length 126. The bulk was 5 cm. The following description omits the dimensional units as is conventional in the art.

In one possible design, the plate is made from the back of the body; constructing two straight lines which are vertical to each other, wherein the straight line in the vertical direction is used as a rear central line, and the straight line in the horizontal direction is used as a rear upper horizontal line; and taking the intersection point of the two straight lines as a starting point, and taking the position with the distance (net B/20+3) cm on the back upper horizontal line as a back collar width line, wherein the back collar width is (net B/20+3) cm. Do the clothing body back part still includes, draws back shoulder sloping line: taking an end point A of the rear neck width line far away from the rear midline as an extension starting point, extending to a position of 15cm, then taking a position of 15cm as a vertical line of the rear neck width line, taking a point B at a position of 5cm downward from the vertical line, taking the connecting point A and the point B as rear shoulder oblique lines, and marking as 15:5 to make a rear shoulder oblique line; drawing shoulder lines: one end of the shoulder line is horizontally drawn on the back middle line, the other end of the shoulder line is horizontally drawn on the back shoulder oblique line by adopting a fixed length distance of the shoulder width L1/2, the intersection point of the back shoulder oblique lines at the end points of the shoulder line is a point C, the distance between the point A and the point C is the back shoulder, and the line segment AC is the back shoulder line.

In one possible design, the front piece of the clothes body also comprises,

drawing a front upper horizontal line: taking the rear upper horizontal line as a reference line, and making a front upper horizontal line by upward 1.5 cm;

drawing a front midline which is perpendicular to the upper posterior horizontal line and is spaced apart from the posterior midline by a distance greater than the bust W2;

making a front collar width on the front upper horizontal line; then, by the same method of drawing the back shoulder diagonal, 15: 5.5, making a front shoulder oblique line, and making a front small shoulder on the front shoulder oblique line; the horizontal line from the upper front horizontal line to the back BP point is the bust line, and the distance J3/2 from the front center line is used as the milk space line on the front bust line of the front piece of the clothes body. For example, making a plate from the back of a clothes body, firstly drawing two mutually vertical straight lines on paper, wherein one line is a back middle line, the other line is a back upper horizontal line, the net B/20+3 is a back collar width, a back shoulder slope line is drawn at 15:5, a shoulder line is drawn at 39.5/2, a front upper horizontal line is drawn at 1.5 times upwards on the back upper horizontal line, then a front middle line is drawn, and a front collar width (the back collar width is-0.5) 15 is drawn on the front upper horizontal line; 5.5 making an anterior shoulder slope, making a small anterior shoulder (posterior shoulder-0.5) on the anterior shoulder slope, making a chest line on the upper anterior horizontal line and then downward 26, making a breast space on the chest line from the anterior midline 18/2, it is noted that the chest line and the armhole depth line may coincide, and often do not coincide, depending on the arm circumference or armhole arc length, but may coincide here.

In one possible design, the distance from the upper front horizontal line to the lower front body length H2 is plotted as the waist line, the distance from the waist line to the lower abdomen-hip distance J1 is plotted as the abdomen-hip distance line, the distance from the waist line to the lower hip length J2 is plotted as the hip girth line, the distance from the waist line to the lower waist line to the knee J4 is plotted as the knee girth line, and the distance from the upper front horizontal line to the lower garment length H4 is plotted as the garment length line;

the back width, the back bust width, the front bust width and the front bust width are respectively arranged on the bust lines,

waist province before drawing and waist province after drawing: making vertical lines at each point of the back bust and the front bust to respectively intersect the waist line and the hip line, then respectively collecting 1.5cm of front and back side waists at the intersection point on the waist line, wherein the back waist is W/4-0.5, and the front waist is W/4+ 0.5; the front and back waist provinces are then drawn.

For example, in the set of data measured, the waist line was drawn 41.5 down on the front horizontal line, 8cm down the waist line for the hip-in-abdomen distance, 22 down the waist line for the hip length, 58 down the waist line for the lap line, and 126 down from the front upper horizontal line for the garment length. Respectively making back width, back bust, front chest width and front bust on the bust line, making vertical lines at each point of the back bust and the front bust to respectively intersect with the waist line and the hip line, then respectively folding the front and back side waists at the intersection point on the waist line by 1.5, respectively obtaining the chest province and making the front and back waist provinces, wherein the back waist is W/4-0.5, and the front waist is W/4+ 0.5.

In one possible design, the rear and front garment panels include front and rear armhole lines, and the front armhole lines are formed by:

the intersection point of the line b 'and the line a' is a horizontal line vertical to the central line of the front part of the garment body, and then the intersection point of the horizontal line and the front side waist line is the lower endpoint of the front sleeve cage line; drawing a front armhole line and a rear armhole line respectively, measuring the circumferences of the front armhole line and the rear armhole line respectively, and determining an armhole deep line according to an arm circumference and a clothes category to be made. For example, the measured data is more than 5cm larger than the arm circumference, and the made clothes are fit, so the armhole depth line needs to be adjusted upwards by more than 0.5, and the length of the armholes of the coat body needs to be shortened; otherwise, the armholes deepen the coat body are enlarged.

In one possible design, including the smoothing of the side arc, the method is as follows:

respectively making a back body length H3 and a front body length H2 on a hip line, respectively connecting a back side waist point and a front side waist point, making a vertical line perpendicular to a knee line and a clothes length horizontal line from the front and back hip points, respectively closing the front and back knee lines by 2-3 cm, making a straight line from the front and back hip points, passing the point of 2-3 cm until the clothes length H4 is on the clothes length horizontal line, making an arc along the front and back side stitches, making the front clothes length down by 1-2 cm, and then making an arc along the lower hem. For example, a back body length H3 and a front body length H2 are respectively made on the hip line, then a back side waist point and a front side waist point are respectively connected, and then a vertical line is made from the front and back hip points to the knee line and the garment length 126. The front and back knee lines are respectively contracted by 2cm, then the straight line is made from the front and back hip points to the point of 2cm until the clothes length 126 is on the horizontal line, the arc is along the front and back side sewing lines, the front clothes length is down 1, and then the arc is along the lower hem.

In one possible design, including the sleeve plate making, the sleeve plate making process is as follows:

acquiring the length of armholes of the front and rear clothes bodies, making two lines e and f which are perpendicular to each other and intersect at a point O as shown in fig. 2, wherein the line e is a sleeve fat line, the line f is a sleeve middle line, the diagonal line is superposed with the line f, and the distance from the diagonal point to the front sleeve fat line is the length of the armholes of the front clothes body and is called as the front sleeve slant length, so as to determine the height of an armhole and then make a horizontal line of the height of the armhole; the distance from the diagonal point to the rear sleeve fat line is the rear armhole length which is called as the rear sleeve slant length, and the arm circumference measured according to the length can be adjusted; the oblique length of the front sleeve is divided into four equal parts, a point at 1/4 is taken as a vertical line with the sleeve mountain high level, the vertical line is divided into two equal parts, a point at 3/4 is taken as a vertical line with the sleeve fertilizer line, and the vertical line is divided into two equal parts; the oblique length of the rear sleeve is divided into three equal parts, a point 1/3 is used as a high horizontal line vertical to the sleeve mountains, and the two equal parts are divided on the vertical line; dividing the point from the end point of the back sleeve fertilizer to the point 2/3 of the oblique length of the back sleeve into two equal parts, making the point 1/2 perpendicular to the sleeve fertilizer line, and dividing the perpendicular line into two equal parts; and then wired. The plate making method for the sleeves is simple, the arc lines of the sleeve mountains made by adopting the plate making method of the equal division method are particularly smooth, and the sleeves are not deformed.

BP point is also called chest point and breast point, and is an abbreviation of English bustpoint. When the dress is specially designed for women, the dress is used as the reference for chest height, chest distance, chest circumference and chest dart. When the edition is made, the BP point is taken as an important reference point, and the female clothes with the type or the body can be made relatively.

Example 2

A computer device comprising a memory, a processor and a transceiver connected in sequence, wherein the memory is used for storing a computer program, the transceiver is used for transmitting and receiving messages, and the processor is used for reading the computer program and executing the cheongsam plate making method according to embodiment 1.

For example, the Memory may include, but is not limited to, a Random Access Memory (RAM), a Read Only Memory (ROM), a Flash Memory (Flash Memory), a First In First Out (FIFO) Memory, and/or a First In Last Out (FILO) Memory, and the like; the processor may not be limited to the use of a microprocessor model number STM32F105 family; the transceiver may be, but is not limited to, a Wireless Fidelity (WiFi) Wireless transceiver, a bluetooth Wireless transceiver, a General Packet Radio Service (GPRS) Wireless transceiver, a ZigBee protocol (ZigBee) Wireless transceiver, and/or the like. In addition, the multimedia terminal may include, but is not limited to, a power module, a display screen, and other necessary components.

Example 3

A computer readable storage medium having stored thereon instructions which, when executed on a computer, perform the method of cheongsam plate making as any one of the possible designs of example 1 or example 1. The computer-readable storage medium refers to a carrier for storing data, and may include, but is not limited to, floppy disks, optical disks, hard disks, flash memories, flash disks and/or Memory sticks (Memory sticks), etc., and the computer may be a general purpose computer, special purpose computer, computer network, or other programmable device.

For the working process, the working details and the technical effects of the computer-readable storage medium provided in this embodiment, reference may be made to embodiment 1, which is not described herein again.

The present invention provides a computer program product comprising instructions which, when run on a computer, cause the computer to perform the secure encryption method of the multimedia control system according to the first aspect of the embodiments or the second aspect of the embodiments, wherein the computer may be a general purpose computer, a special purpose computer, a computer network, or other programmable device.

The embodiments described above are merely illustrative, and the units described as separate parts may or may not be physically separate, and parts displayed as units may or may not be physical units, may be located in one place, or may be distributed on a plurality of network units. Some or all of the modules may be selected according to actual needs to achieve the purpose of the solution of the present embodiment. One of ordinary skill in the art can understand and implement it without inventive effort.

Through the above description of the embodiments, those skilled in the art will clearly understand that each embodiment can be implemented by software plus a necessary general hardware platform, and certainly can also be implemented by hardware. With this understanding in mind, the above-described technical solutions may be embodied in the form of a software product, which can be stored in a computer-readable storage medium, such as ROM/RAM, magnetic disk, optical disk, etc., and includes instructions for causing a computer device to perform the methods described in the embodiments or some portions of the embodiments.

The above-mentioned embodiments are intended to illustrate the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention in further detail, and it should be understood that the above-mentioned embodiments are merely exemplary embodiments of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements and the like made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (5)

1. A universal cheongsam plate making method comprises the steps of obtaining the size of a human body; making a back piece and a front piece of the clothes body; the front piece of the clothes body comprises a front side waist line, a BP point, a front small shoulder line and a chest dart; it is characterized in that the chest province is drawn as follows:

extending the front side waist line upwards, drawing a line b vertical to the front side waist line at a BP point, setting the front side waist line intersected with the line b as a line a, then clockwise rotating the line b and the line a by taking the BP point as an axial point until the line a passes through an end point of the front small shoulder line close to the sleeve, and drawing a line b 'and a' at the moment; at the moment, an included angle is formed between the line b and the line b', the intersection point is a BP point, and the included angle is the thoracic province;

the human body size comprises height H1, shoulder width L1, neck circumference W1, chest circumference W2, clean chest circumference B, waist circumference W, abdominal circumference W4, hip circumference W5, abdominal hip distance J1, hip length J2, front chest width L2, back width L3, BP point depth S, milk space distance J3, front body length H2, back body length H3, arm circumference W6, arm circumference W7 and waist line to knee size J4, and garment length H4 is determined according to requirements; customizing a bulk K according to the requirement, wherein the bulk K is 4-8 cm;

starting to make a plate from the back piece of the clothes body; constructing two straight lines which are vertical to each other in a transverse direction, wherein the straight line in the vertical direction is used as a rear central line, and the straight line in the horizontal direction is used as a rear upper horizontal line; taking the intersection point of the two straight lines as a starting point, and taking the position on the upper back horizontal line away from the net B/20+3cm as a back collar width line, wherein the back collar width is the net B/20+3 cm;

the back piece of the clothes also comprises a back piece,

drawing a back shoulder oblique line: taking an end point A of the rear neck width line far away from the rear midline as an extension starting point, extending to a position of 15cm, then taking a position of 15cm as a vertical line of the rear neck width line, marking a point B at a position of 5cm above the vertical line, taking the connecting point A and the point B as rear shoulder oblique lines, and marking as 15:5 to make rear shoulder oblique lines;

drawing shoulder lines: horizontally drawing one end of a shoulder line on a rear middle line and the other end of the shoulder line on the rear shoulder oblique line by adopting a fixed length distance of a shoulder width L1/2, wherein the intersection point of the end of the shoulder line and the rear shoulder oblique line is a point C, the distance between the point A and the point C is a rear shoulder, and a line segment AC is a rear shoulder line;

the front piece of the clothes body also comprises a front piece,

drawing a front upper horizontal line: taking the rear upper horizontal line as a reference line, and making a front upper horizontal line by upward 1.5 cm;

drawing a front midline which is perpendicular to the upper posterior horizontal line and is spaced apart from the posterior midline by a distance greater than the bust W2;

and (3) making a front collar width on the front upper horizontal line, and then drawing a back shoulder oblique line by the same method with the steps of 15: 5.5, making a front shoulder oblique line, and making a front small shoulder on the front shoulder oblique line; the horizontal line from the upper front horizontal line to the lower BP point is the bust line, and the distance J3/2 between the front center line and the front bust line of the front piece of the clothes body is used as the milk spacing line.

2. The method for making a universal cheongsam according to claim 1, wherein the step of making the cheongsam further comprises the step of making a cheongsam plate,

the distance from the waist line to the lower hip length J2 is taken as a hip line, the distance from the waist line to the lower hip length J1 is taken as a hip line, the distance from the waist line to the lower hip length J4 is taken as a knee line, the distance from the waist line to the lower waist line to the knee J4 is taken as a knee line, and the distance from the front upper horizontal line to the lower garment length H3 is taken as a garment length line;

the back width, the back bust, the front bust width and the front bust are respectively arranged on the bust lines,

waist province before drawing and waist province after drawing: making vertical lines at each point of the back chest circumference and the front chest circumference to respectively intersect at the waist line and the hip circumference line, then respectively collecting 1.5cm of front and back side waists at the intersection point on the waist line, wherein the back waist is W/4-0.5cm, and the front waist is W/4+0.5 cm; the front and back waist provinces are then drawn.

3. The method for making a universal cheongsam according to claim 1, wherein the back part and the front part of the body comprise front and back armhole lines, and the front armhole line is made by the following method:

the intersection point of the line b 'and the line a' is a horizontal line vertical to the central line of the front part of the garment body, and then the intersection point of the horizontal line and the front side waist line is the lower endpoint of the front sleeve cage line; drawing a front armhole line; drawing a rear armhole line, measuring the circumferences of the front armhole line and the rear armhole line respectively, and determining an armhole deep line according to the arm circumference and the type of clothes to be made.

4. The method for making a universal cheongsam according to claim 1, comprising the step of smoothing the side arc by:

respectively making a back body length H3 and a front body length H2 on hip line, respectively connecting a back side waist point and a front side waist point, then making a straight line perpendicular to a knee line and a clothes length horizontal line from the front and back hip points, respectively closing r centimeters of the front and back knee line, wherein r is more than or equal to 2 centimeters and less than or equal to 3 centimeters, then making a straight line from the front and back hip points, passing through the points, respectively closing r centimeters, on the knee line until the clothes length H4 clothes length horizontal line, making an arc along the front and back side sewing lines, making the front clothes length down by 1-2 cm, and then making an arc along the arc down.

5. The universal cheongsam plate making process according to claim 1, wherein the bulk K is 5 cm.

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