CN104544668A - Variance-ratio original-number cutting method for clothes side breast dart - Google Patents
Variance-ratio original-number cutting method for clothes side breast dart Download PDFInfo
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- CN104544668A CN104544668A CN201410733606.6A CN201410733606A CN104544668A CN 104544668 A CN104544668 A CN 104544668A CN 201410733606 A CN201410733606 A CN 201410733606A CN 104544668 A CN104544668 A CN 104544668A
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- pleurobranch
- line
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- clothes
- economize
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
Abstract
The invention discloses a variance-ratio original-number cutting method for a clothes side breast dart. The method comprises the following steps: determining the clothes specifications of chest circumference, waist circumference, shoulder width, chest width and armhole circumference according to the requirement on clothes style and human body measurement data; determining that the chest-waist difference is BW and the side breast dart variance-ratio coefficient is 10:BW'; acquiring the side breast dart amount which varies along with the style and model variations of the clothes according to a side breast dart point, a dart opening point, a side breast dart variance-ratio coefficient line BW', a dart length line A and a dart opening line C. By adopting the method, a large number of problems existing in a cutting method which applies an identical side breast dart amount to clothes of various models in the prior art are effectively solved, and a very high practical value is achieved.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the method for cutting out of clothes style of bust, especially relate to the variable of a kind of clothes pleurobranch province than former figure tailoring method.
Background technology
Clothes chest is economized for clothes style of bust, very important for human comfort, and prior art adopts a kind of quantitatively than, i.e. a kind of style of bust for different garment type.Most is representational is Japanese New Culture prototype, first draws the prototype cardboard cut out without style name and contrasts, then fixes dart design chest province by rule of thumb, draws the garment piece cut out and have style name.These technology make different garment style type form same style of bust, cause that comfort level is poor, the trial-manufacturing process of clothes is long, cost manpower and materials are larger, be not suitable with the style change demand of market-oriented clothes, greatly limit the development of clothing industry.
Publication date is on March 12nd, 2014, publication number is that the Chinese patent document of CN 103622194A discloses and a kind ofly automatically determines the former figure tailoring method of the YVW of clothes armhole depth, the former number of clothes at high position is saved according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion determination armhole girth, shoulder breadth, chest measurement, clothing length, collar, waist, the upper and lower segmentation datum line length of garment piece armhole is determined according to the former number of armhole girth, by the metamorphosis of the upper and lower part perimeter line that the basic directrix of segmentation determines armhole points outside height automatically, the armhole degree of depth instructs front and back armhole by armhole girth rate.The relative points of this technology does not describe style of bust closely-related with armhole periphery, and it economizes the blank of technology to chest as seen, and the design of dress style of bust is subject to many limitations.
The chest that the armhole method of cutting out of above-mentioned technology deposits armhole and style of bust economizes the indefinite problem of relation, the style of bust of Ms. Wear is changed be subject to many limitations, there is larger uncertainty in the clothes of its cutting, the chest that cannot meet garment piece chest economizes the cutting requirement of change in the comfort level of human body.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is: solve prior art to time-consuming longer, the problem that cannot meet precision rate request that garment market convert dress ornament and comfortable features of clothing difference existing for the method for cutting out of the same chest dart of the clothes of multiple type, provide a kind of cutting quick, precision rate request that garment market converts dress ornament can be met and the variable of the good clothes pleurobranch province of comfortableness than former figure tailoring method.
Above-mentioned technical problem of the present invention is mainly solved by following technical proposals: the variable that a kind of clothes pleurobranch is economized, than former figure tailoring method, comprises the following steps:
A. according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data determination chest measurement, waistline, shoulder breadth, chest breadth and armhole girth, if chest measurement length is B, waistline length is W, chest waist difference is BW, it is BW ' than coefficient that pleurobranch economizes variable, it is 10:BW ' i.e. BW '=BW/10, wherein BW=B-W that setting chest waist difference and pleurobranch economize variable than the ratio between coefficient.Here it is 10:BW ' that chest waist difference and pleurobranch economize variable than the ratio between coefficient, and referring to economize point is starting point, and be governor's line place of 10 in length, province's Opening length vertical with governor's line is BW ', and what namely pleurobranch economized V-arrangement opening angle is just cut to BW '/10.Prior art is economized for the chest of not jack per line type and is used a chest dart, a kind of style of bust by rule of thumb, its clothes chest comfort level is had a greatly reduced quality, for this reason, the present invention sets chest waist difference as pleurobranch dart radix, its pleurobranch dart can be changed according to the change of the former number of clothes, is no longer a kind of quantitative ratio, but a kind of quantity relative ratio relationship that can change, chest measurement is greater than to the clothes of waistline, the cut-out method of the present invention's rule is all applicable.
B., after finishing garment piece outline line by clothing specification, determine that the mid point of BL BUST LINE chest breadth section is the BP point that chest protrudes.
C. more than waistline, determine that bottom 1/3 place of side seam line is that pleurobranch is economized a little, it is epimere side seam line that pleurobranch economizes a little above side seam line, economize an aligning BP strokes and dots pleurobranch by pleurobranch and economize baseline, calculate with 1/3 of the length of base and determine that pleurobranch economizes the distance of point and BP point, point is economized for starting point with pleurobranch, pleurobranch is economized base line extension to 10 centimetre, and equals the pleurobranch province variable of BW ' than coefficient line perpendicular to the left end picture length of pleurobranch province baseline, determining that pleurobranch economizes point to the pleurobranch baseline economized a little is governor's line.Because pleurobranch economizes length less than 10 centimetres, therefore pleurobranch must be economized base line extension to 10 centimetre, correct pleurobranch dart could be obtained like this.Economize variable ratio according to pleurobranch, when the former number of different garment, automatically can obtain different pleurobranch darts, naturally form the style of bust that the former number of clothing specification needs, can provide and protrude the corresponding clothes comfort level of degree to female chest.
D. economize point with pleurobranch to be starting point, to aim at pleurobranch and economize variable and to draw than coefficient line upper end and isometricly with governor's line open province's line, determine out that the left end of province's line is that pleurobranch is economized and opened and economize a little, pleurobranch economize open economize a little and pleurobranch economize a little between distance be pleurobranch dart.
E. determine that prolongation amount is 1/2 of pleurobranch dart, a little repaint epimere side seam line to armhole line lower extreme point from opening to economize and upwards extend a prolongation amount, according to the epimere side seam line upper extreme point after prolongation, anter bottom armhole line upwards below the upper and lower armhole cut-point of translation, simultaneously according to prolongation amount downward translation rear panel bottom armhole line; The lower end of epimere side seam line is extended a prolongation amount downwards and form mobile side seam line, and the lower extreme point of mobile side seam line and pleurobranch are economized to be connected, complete side seam line displacement thus.Here 2 prolongation amount=1 pleurobranch dart, 1 prolongation amount on abjugal suture alignment, lower 1 the prolongation amount of disjugal suture alignment, just makes front and back side seam line final lengths equal.Here front lower portion armhole line moves, and to the deficiency in length value amount=1 prolongation amount that armhole line causes, back armhole line moves down 1 prolongation amount, to the length amount of a making up=1 prolongation amount of armhole line, ensure that designed armhole line final lengths=former number of armhole girth.Here epimere side seam line lower end, to next one prolongation amount, just for making up the empty angle, an oblique seam position will formed at side seam line place after side province is sewed up, has nothing to do with the latasuture length of clothing product.
F. according to the garment piece outline line of the mobile side seam line after repainting, bottom armhole line and other movements, the garment piece of the clothes fashion that seam cutting economizes with pleurobranch is put.For the clothes setting up pleurobranch province, so far can according to the garment piece outline line of the mobile side seam line after repainting, bottom armhole line and other movements, put the garment piece of the clothes fashion that seam cutting economizes with pleurobranch, the garment piece reduced like this can guarantee that style of bust and human chest are protruded degree and coincide.Garment piece outline line described here is clean stitched seam line, therefore needs to put seam cutting, if do not put seam cutting, the clothing product made will be less than normal.
Open province's line overlap after governor's sewer, mobile or after repainting garment piece outline line all overlaps with former outline line.Can guarantee that front cut pieces and rear garment piece are accurately sewed up like this, and corresponding pleurobranch dart, corresponding style of bust can be provided for BP protrusion person in various degree, provide corresponding clothes comfort level.
Pleurobranch dart of the present invention is relevant to the former number of clothes, for the clothes that chest waist difference is large, corresponding pleurobranch dart is larger, for the clothes that chest waist difference is little, corresponding pleurobranch dart is less, from prior art adopt one fixing quantitative than different, the quantity relative ratio relationship of a change that what the present invention adopted is, can automatically determine suitable pleurobranch dart according to the former number of different garment, make clothing product fit comfortable.
The present invention only relates to the method for cutting out that clothes pleurobranch is economized, the tailoring technology at other position or carries out another item application for a patent for invention, the present invention does not relate to, do not describe the core content of another item invention, and the content that the present invention does not elaborate in addition is prior art.Relevant code name in the present invention just shows a kind of symbol with the difference of other method of cutting out.Cardboard can be drawn and be cut into clothes profiled sheeting by technology of the present invention, model is used for the clothing cutting plate that batch production cut out by picture, also directly can be drawn by cloth and be cut into single-piece tailored costume garment piece.So the present invention does not draw paper cutting board in addition to compared estimate, does not additionally produce waste paper garbage, just can realize picture according to the former number design of clothes and cut out fit garment piece object, be a kind of simple and practical garment cutting method.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: the invention solves prior art to existing for the method for cutting out of the same pleurobranch dart of the clothes of multiple type, time-consuming longer, the problem that cannot meet precision rate request that garment market converts dress ornament and comfortable features of clothing difference, achieve a kind of cutting quick, precision rate request that garment market convert dress ornament can be met and the variable of the good clothes pleurobranch province of comfortableness than former figure tailoring method.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is a kind of front cut pieces schematic diagram that pleurobranch of the present invention economizes cutting-out method;
Fig. 2 is a kind of rear garment piece schematic diagram that pleurobranch of the present invention economizes cutting-out method.
Fig. 1: 1. BL BUST LINE chest breadth section, 8. waistline, 9. side seam line, 10. pleurobranch is economized a little, 11. side provinces points, and 12. open and economize a little, 13. front cut pieces bottom armhole lines, 14. rear garment piece bottom armhole lines, 15. move side seam line, BP. chest protruding point, A. governor's line, C. province's line is opened, BW '. pleurobranch economizes variable than coefficient line, the upper and lower armhole cut-point of D..
Detailed description of the invention
Below by embodiment, and by reference to the accompanying drawings, technical scheme of the present invention is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1
In embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1, the variable that a kind of clothes pleurobranch is economized, than former figure tailoring method, comprises the following steps:
A. according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data determination chest measurement, waistline, shoulder breadth, chest breadth and armhole girth, if chest measurement length is B, waistline length is W, chest waist difference is BW, it is BW ' than coefficient that pleurobranch economizes variable, it is 10:BW ' i.e. BW '=BW/10, wherein BW=B-W that setting chest waist difference and pleurobranch economize variable than the ratio between coefficient.
B., after finishing garment piece outline line by clothing specification, determine that the mid point of BL BUST LINE chest breadth section 1 is the BP point that chest protrudes.
C. at waistline more than 8, determine that bottom 1/3 place of side seam line 9 is that pleurobranch economizes a little 10, it is epimere side seam line that pleurobranch economizes a little above side seam line, economize an aligning BP strokes and dots pleurobranch by pleurobranch and economize baseline, calculate with 1/3 of the length of base and determine that pleurobranch economizes the distance of point 11 and BP point, point is economized for starting point with pleurobranch, pleurobranch is economized base line extension to 10 centimetre, and equal the pleurobranch province variable of BW ' than coefficient line perpendicular to the left end picture length of pleurobranch province baseline, determining that pleurobranch economizes point to the pleurobranch baseline economized a little is governor's line A.
D. economize point with pleurobranch to be starting point, to aim at pleurobranch and economize variable and to draw than coefficient line upper end and isometricly with governor's line open province line C, determine out that the left end of province's line is that pleurobranch is economized to open and economized a little 12, pleurobranch province open economize a little and pleurobranch economize a little between distance be pleurobranch dart.
E. determine that prolongation amount is 1/2 of pleurobranch dart, a little repaint epimere side seam line to armhole line lower extreme point from opening to economize and upwards extend a prolongation amount, according to the epimere side seam line upper extreme point after prolongation, anter bottom armhole line 13 upwards below translation upper and lower armhole cut-point D, (namely in Fig. 1 D point with lower part armhole line) is simultaneously according to prolongation amount downward translation rear panel bottom armhole line 14; The lower end of epimere side seam line is extended a prolongation amount downwards and form mobile side seam line 15, and the lower extreme point of mobile side seam line and pleurobranch are economized to be connected, complete side seam line displacement thus.
F. according to the garment piece outline line of the mobile side seam line after repainting, bottom armhole line and other movements, the garment piece of the clothes fashion that seam cutting economizes with pleurobranch is put.
Province's line overlap of opening of the present invention is after governor's sewer, and garment piece outline line that is mobile or that again drew all overlaps with former outline line.Jiang Kai economizes line overlap after governor's sewer, the line moved or again drew all will set back, guarantee accurately to sew up with rear garment piece, and corresponding dart, corresponding style of bust can be provided for BP protrusion person in various degree, provide corresponding clothes comfort level.
In accompanying drawing of the present invention, the fine line of garment piece figure neighboring is garment piece initial profile line, interior detail solid line is BL BUST LINE chest breadth section, inner dotted line is that garment piece is drawn and cut out boost line, and heavy line is province's line of redefining of design idea according to the present invention or outline line (comprising armhole line and side seam line).
Chest measurement is greater than to the clothes of waistline, the cut-out method of the present invention's rule is all applicable, and not another paper cutting board, to compared estimate, does not additionally produce waste paper garbage, have easy to operate, pleurobranch economize automatically change according to the former number of clothes, the easy feature such as accurately of the determination of style of bust.Solve prior art to existing for the method for cutting out of the same dart of the clothes of multiple type, time-consuming longer, the problem that cannot meet precision rate request that garment market converts dress ornament and comfortable features of clothing difference.Achieve a kind of cutting quick, precision rate request that garment market convert dress ornament can be met and the variable of the good clothes pleurobranch province of comfortableness than former figure tailoring method.
In addition to the implementation; in the scope disclosed in claims of the present invention and description; technical characteristic of the present invention or technical data can carry out reselecting and combining; thus form new embodiment; the embodiment that these the present invention do not describe in detail is that those skilled in the art just can realize easily without the need to creative work, and therefore these embodiments do not described in detail also should be considered as specific embodiments of the invention and within protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. the variable of clothes pleurobranch province is than a former figure tailoring method, it is characterized in that comprising the following steps:
A. according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data determination chest measurement, waistline, shoulder breadth, chest breadth and armhole girth, if chest measurement length is B, waistline length is W, chest waist difference is BW, it is BW ' than coefficient that pleurobranch economizes variable, it is 10:BW ' i.e. BW '=BW/10, wherein BW=B-W that setting chest waist difference and pleurobranch economize variable than the ratio between coefficient;
B., after finishing garment piece outline line by clothing specification, determine that the mid point of BL BUST LINE chest breadth section (1) is the BP point that chest protrudes;
C. more than waistline (8), determine that bottom 1/3 place of side seam line (9) is that pleurobranch economizes point (10), it is epimere side seam line that pleurobranch economizes a little above side seam line, economize an aligning BP strokes and dots pleurobranch by pleurobranch and economize baseline, calculate with 1/3 of the length of base and determine that pleurobranch economizes the distance of point (11) and BP point, point is economized for starting point with pleurobranch, pleurobranch is economized base line extension to 10 centimetre, and equal the pleurobranch province variable of BW ' than coefficient line perpendicular to the left end picture length of pleurobranch province baseline, determining that pleurobranch economizes point to the pleurobranch baseline economized a little is governor's line (A);
D. economize point with pleurobranch to be starting point, to aim at pleurobranch and economize variable and to draw than coefficient line upper end and isometricly with governor's line open province's line (C), determine out that the left end of province's line is that pleurobranch is economized and opened and economize point (12), pleurobranch economize open economize a little and pleurobranch economize a little between distance be pleurobranch dart;
E. determine that prolongation amount is 1/2 of pleurobranch dart, a little repaint epimere side seam line to armhole line lower extreme point from opening to economize and upwards extend a prolongation amount, according to the epimere side seam line upper extreme point after prolongation, the upwards anter bottom armhole line 13 of upper and lower armhole cut-point (D) below of translation), simultaneously according to prolongation amount downward translation rear panel bottom armhole line (14); The lower end of epimere side seam line is extended a prolongation amount downwards and form mobile side seam line (15), and the lower extreme point of mobile side seam line and pleurobranch are economized to be connected, complete side seam line displacement thus;
F. according to the garment piece outline line of the mobile side seam line after repainting, bottom armhole line and other movements, the garment piece of the clothes fashion that seam cutting economizes with pleurobranch is put.
2. the variable of a kind of clothes pleurobranch province according to claim 1 is than former figure tailoring method, it is characterized in that, opens province's line overlap after governor's sewer, and garment piece outline line that is mobile or that again drew all overlaps with former outline line.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201410733606.6A CN104544668B (en) | 2014-12-04 | 2014-12-04 | The variable that clothes pleurobranch is economized is than former figure tailoring method |
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| CN201410733606.6A CN104544668B (en) | 2014-12-04 | 2014-12-04 | The variable that clothes pleurobranch is economized is than former figure tailoring method |
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| CN104544668A true CN104544668A (en) | 2015-04-29 |
| CN104544668B CN104544668B (en) | 2015-11-25 |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107373841A (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2017-11-24 | 胡亨有 | Garment collar chest saves BNV originals number design cutting-out method |
| CN108308776A (en) * | 2018-04-11 | 2018-07-24 | 潮汕职业技术学院 | A method of solving clothes oxter motion function |
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| US3765095A (en) * | 1970-01-05 | 1973-10-16 | J Olive | Pattern perfecter |
| US3824628A (en) * | 1973-06-07 | 1974-07-23 | P Bannister | Method and equipment for sewing |
| GB1385558A (en) * | 1972-10-31 | 1975-02-26 | Covill Mfg Co | Methods of transferring and directing the darts in a dress pattern |
| CN101485500A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Structure design method for suit-dress pattern |
| CN203723498U (en) * | 2014-02-28 | 2014-07-23 | 重庆师范大学 | Dart transfer device for chests of garments for women |
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2014
- 2014-12-04 CN CN201410733606.6A patent/CN104544668B/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US3765095A (en) * | 1970-01-05 | 1973-10-16 | J Olive | Pattern perfecter |
| GB1385558A (en) * | 1972-10-31 | 1975-02-26 | Covill Mfg Co | Methods of transferring and directing the darts in a dress pattern |
| US3824628A (en) * | 1973-06-07 | 1974-07-23 | P Bannister | Method and equipment for sewing |
| CN101485500A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Structure design method for suit-dress pattern |
| CN203723498U (en) * | 2014-02-28 | 2014-07-23 | 重庆师范大学 | Dart transfer device for chests of garments for women |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107373841A (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2017-11-24 | 胡亨有 | Garment collar chest saves BNV originals number design cutting-out method |
| CN107373841B (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2019-06-21 | 胡亨有 | Garment collar chest saves BNV original number and designs cutting-out method |
| CN108308776A (en) * | 2018-04-11 | 2018-07-24 | 潮汕职业技术学院 | A method of solving clothes oxter motion function |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| CN104544668B (en) | 2015-11-25 |
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Address after: No.32, west side of Hubin Road, Xuzhuang street, Gaogang District, Taizhou City, Jiangsu Province Patentee after: Hu Hengyou Address before: Yiwu city A District, Hu Zhailan Fan Town Yiwu city Zhejiang province 322009 Jinhua City Hu division clothing design studio Patentee before: Hu Hengyou |
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