GB1385558A - Methods of transferring and directing the darts in a dress pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

1385558 Patterns for clothing SCOVILL MFG CO 31 Oct 1972 50213/72 Heading A3V A method of relocating a dart initially located on a first seam 14A on a dress pattern so that in order to tailor the pattern to fit a wearer, the new dart will point to the apex of a curve on the wearer's body e.g. the centre of the bust, comprises locating a body apex 20 on the pattern corresponding to the apex on the wearer by measuring in from the shoulder and underarm edges of the pattern distances corresponding to measurements taken from the wearer, defining a centre line 21 at the location of the intended new dart, this location being on a seam at least 45‹ away from the old dart abut the body apex 20, extending the old dart to meet the centreline 21 at a pivot apex 22 i.e. by locating dart edge lines 14B' in place of the original edge lines 14B, cutting at the extended old dart from the pattern along the lines 14B' and cutting along the line 21 to the pivot apex 22, and finally pivoting the severed portion 24 of the pattern to fill the space of the extended old dart where it may be secured by pressure adhesive tape 26 (Figure 6), the open new dart 27 then being traced and shortened as desired on paper located behind the new dart 27. In this procedure an undrawn dart may be transferred to a position wherein it forms a shoulder dart e.g. for a princess line dress, but by repeating the process described above the shoulder dart may be transferred back to the underarm position at a different location to the original dependent on the measurements taken from the intended wearer.