CN1461614A - Garment cutting method for a piece long sleeve elbow-length sleeve piece with pleated end for equipped with cuff - Google Patents
Garment cutting method for a piece long sleeve elbow-length sleeve piece with pleated end for equipped with cuff Download PDFInfo
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- CN1461614A CN1461614A CN 02120534 CN02120534A CN1461614A CN 1461614 A CN1461614 A CN 1461614A CN 02120534 CN02120534 CN 02120534 CN 02120534 A CN02120534 A CN 02120534A CN 1461614 A CN1461614 A CN 1461614A
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Abstract
A cutting method for a long sleeve piece or elbow-length sleeve piece in order to gather for installing cuff includes such steps as determining the basic type of sleeve cape according to moulding of muff and sleeve cap, moving front and back stereo fold lines of sleeve cap to planar fold lines, elongating the back planar fold line and 3 straight lines of sleeve barrel to cuff, and transfering the elbow dart to cuff.
Description
The present invention relates to restrain a slice long sleeves of husband's kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve, be meant that especially seam elbow province is transferred to cuff under the sleeve of back, the method that kilting is handled when the dress sleeve restrains the husband in a kind of clothes cuff dress.
A slice long sleeves of the clothes cuff dress gram husband kilting in the prior art, the method for cutting out of half sleeve, normally rule of thumb directly determine the amount (as Fig. 1) of sleeve mountain line style, sleeve outline line and cuff kilting, lack complete theory, often can not make sleeve and muffs, sleeve mountain and sleeve coupling rationally, influence the effect of clothes, therefore invent a slice long sleeves of a kind of clothes cuff dress gram husband kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve, become the problem that must solve in the clothing industry.
The object of the present invention is to provide a slice long sleeves of a kind of clothes cuff dress gram husband kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve, guarantee the perfection of the reasonable and sleeve moulding of sleeve and garment piece muffs coupling.
The objective of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
A slice long sleeves of a kind of clothes cuff dress gram husband kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve, at first determine sleeve mountain fundamental mode according to front and back muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, again according to the drift angle of half sleeve and long sleeves sleeve center line and sleeve datum line, three-dimensional sleeve mountain broken line is to planar fold before and after moving, sleeve mountain back plane broken line and three straight lines of sleeve body are connected to cuff, the province at elbow line place is transferred to the cuff method of cutting out that kilting is handled when dress restrains the husband.
Compare with the cutting of another garment sleeve in the prior art, a slice long sleeves of a kind of clothes cuff dress gram husband of the present invention kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve, guarantee coincideing of sleeve mountain line style and muffs, and made the sleeve body more meet human body, changed original irrational method of cutting out.
Below by embodiment and conjunction with figs. a slice long sleeves of a kind of clothes cuff dress gram husband of the present invention kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve are described further.
Fig. 2 is the requirement according to garment piece muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, definite sleeve mountain line style schematic diagram, and the mountain fundamental mode is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.
Fig. 3 is the schematic diagram that sleeve center line and sleeve datum line produce the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain of drift angle.
Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain before and after moving forward synchronously behind the sleeve center line deflection sleeve datum line.
Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of a slice long sleeves method of cutting out of cuff dress gram husband kilting.
Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram of a slice half sleeve method of cutting out of cuff dress gram husband kilting.
At first see also Fig. 2 and be requirement according to garment piece muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, definite sleeve mountain line style schematic diagram, the mountain fundamental mode is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.Q is sleeve mountain top point, and QA is a sleeve center line, is sleeve mountain height, A ' A simultaneously, and " be the BICEP line, NM is the three-dimensional broken line in foresleeve mountain, and FE is the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, back.
See also Fig. 3 produces the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain of drift angle for sleeve center line and sleeve datum line schematic diagram again.No matter how sleeve length, sleeve sheet change, the adjustment of sleeve mountain line style must be a foundation with sleeve mountain fundamental mode all, when sleeve length below the elbow line, sleeve center line must constitute drift angle α with sleeve datum line Q vertical line, the parallel lines of the three-dimensional broken line NM in sleeve mountain, FE and sleeve datum line produce the α drift angle simultaneously, and the horizontal range of the parallel lines N vertical line of the foresleeve mountain broken line BICEP M of place point and sleeve datum line is MG.
Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional folding in sleeve mountain before and after moving forward synchronously behind the sleeve center line deflection sleeve datum line.In order to make the three-dimensional broken line energy in foresleeve mountain relative with the sleeve outline line identical, reduce MG size among Fig. 3, moving forward synchronously less than in 2.5 centimeters scopes before and after the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, constitute new front and back broken line N ' M ', the F ' E ' mountain planar fold that is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve, broken line shift amount ⊙=MM '=EE ', process N ' makes the parallel lines of sleeve datum line, i.e. N ' vertical line, make M ' G ' size less, N ' vertical line also is the datum line of sleeve outline line simultaneously.
Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of a slice long sleeves method of cutting out of cuff dress gram husband kilting.Width according to sleeve gram husband, the length of decision sleeve and sleeve drift angle, the sleeve center line of general long sleeves and the drift angle of sleeve datum line Q point vertical line are the 6-7 degree, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 1.5~2.5 centimeters synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, A ' is the cap arc line and the intersection point of seam down of tucking inside the sleeve, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, and RT is that elbow encloses size, and N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, and SU is the cuff size, SU=1/2[cuff gram husband length+(0~X)], X is a cuff kilting amount.It is back sleeve planar fold that straight line connects E ' T, TU.On the cuff line, get B ' point, SB '=cuff/2-0.3-⊙, (amount that ⊙ is shifted to planar fold for the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain) connects A ' B ' and stitches the plan-position line down for sleeve.With F ' E ' is broken line, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ' c, " camber line is the corresponding bank line of F ' A ' to F ' a; With E ' T is broken line, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B '.With N ' S is preceding broken line, and a ', b ' are the corresponding points of A ' B ', and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' A '.C ' C " being the back curve line, d ' d " is an elbow line place province, and elbow is economized cusp K and is connected with the P of cuff place point straight line, and PU 〉=⊙ cuts off KP, and folding elbow is economized, and the amount P ' P of cuff place increase is the amount of adorning when restraining the husband in this place's kilting.
Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram of a slice half sleeve method of cutting out of cuff dress gram husband kilting.Width according to sleeve gram husband, the length of decision sleeve and sleeve drift angle, general sleeve length is the 2-5 degree at elbow line to the sleeve center line of the half sleeve between cuff and the drift angle of sleeve datum line Q point vertical line, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 0.5~2 centimeter synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, A ' is the cap arc line and the intersection point of seam down of tucking inside the sleeve, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, and RT is that elbow encloses size, and N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, and SU is the cuff size, SU=1/2[cuff gram husband length+(0~X)], X is that the connection of cuff kilting amount straight line E ' T, TU are back sleeve planar fold.On the cuff line, get B ' point, SB '=cuff/2-0.3-⊙, (amount that ⊙ is shifted to planar fold for the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain) connects A ' B ' and stitches the plan-position line down for sleeve.With F ' E ' is broken line, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ' c, " camber line is the corresponding bank line of F ' A ' to F ' a; With E ' T is broken line, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B '.With N ' S is preceding broken line, and a ', b ' are the corresponding points of A ', B ', and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' A '.C ' C " being the back curve line, d ' d " is an elbow line place province, and elbow is economized cusp K and is connected with the P of cuff place point straight line, and PU 〉=⊙ cuts off KP, and folding elbow is economized, and the amount P ' P of cuff place increase is the amount of adorning when restraining the husband in this place's kilting.
Claims (5)
1, a slice long sleeves of a kind of clothes cuff dress gram husband kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve, at first determine sleeve mountain fundamental mode according to front and back muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, again according to the drift angle of half sleeve and long sleeves sleeve center line and sleeve datum line, three-dimensional sleeve mountain broken line is to planar fold before and after moving, sleeve mountain back plane broken line and three straight lines of sleeve body are connected to cuff, the province at elbow line place is transferred to the cuff method of cutting out that kilting is handled when dress restrains the husband.
2, the cutting of sleeve at first will be determined the mountain fundamental mode of tucking inside the sleeve, and sleeve mountain fundamental mode is that the moulding according to the muffs of front and back garment piece and sleeve mountain decides.The broken line of BICEP place's doubling is the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back before and after the fundamental mode of sleeve mountain.
3, according to a slice long sleeves of claims 1 described a kind of clothes cuff dress gram husband kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve.No matter sleeve length, how the sleeve sheet changes, the variation of sleeve mountain line style must be a foundation with sleeve mountain fundamental mode all, when sleeve length the time below the line, sleeve center line on the fundamental mode of sleeve mountain must produce a drift angle with the sleeve datum line, the parallel lines of the sleeve datum line at the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain and this position produce the drift angle simultaneously, for the horizontal range of the parallel lines that make three-dimensional broken line BICEP place, foresleeve mountain and this position sleeve datum line reduces, make the sleeve mountain can be relative identical with sleeve, must move forward the three-dimensional broken line in the front and back of sleeve mountain fundamental mode synchronously less than in 2.5 centimeters the scope, form the new sleeve mountain broken line mountain planar fold that is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.
4, according to a slice long sleeves of claims 1 described a kind of clothes cuff dress gram husband kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve.Width according to sleeve gram husband, the length of decision sleeve and sleeve drift angle, the sleeve center line of general long sleeves and the drift angle of sleeve datum line Q point vertical line are the 6-7 degree, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 1.5~2.5 centimeters synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, A ' is the cap arc line and the intersection point of seam down of tucking inside the sleeve, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, and RT is that elbow encloses size, and N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, and SU is the cuff size, SU=1/2[cuff gram husband length+(0~X)], X is a cuff kilting amount.It is back sleeve planar fold that straight line connects E ' T, TU.On the cuff line, get B ' point, SB '=cuff/2-0.3-⊙, (amount that ⊙ is shifted to planar fold for the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain) connects A ' B ' and stitches the plan-position line down for sleeve.With F ' E ' is broken line, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ' c, " camber line is the corresponding bank line of F ' A ' to F ' a; With E ' T is broken line, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B '.With N ' S is preceding broken line, and a ', b ' are the corresponding points of A ' B ', and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' A '.C ' C " being the back curve line, d ' d " is an elbow line place province, and elbow is economized cusp K and is connected with the P of cuff place point straight line, and PU 〉=⊙ cuts off KP, and folding elbow is economized, and the amount P ' P of cuff place increase is the amount of adorning when restraining the husband in this place's kilting.
5, according to a slice long sleeves of claims 1 described a kind of clothes cuff dress gram husband kilting, the method for cutting out of half sleeve.Width according to sleeve gram husband, the length of decision sleeve and sleeve drift angle, general sleeve length is the 2-5 degree at elbow line to the sleeve center line of the half sleeve between cuff and the drift angle of sleeve datum line Q point vertical line, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 0.5~2 centimeter synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, A ' is the cap arc line and the intersection point of seam down of tucking inside the sleeve, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, and RT is that elbow encloses size, and N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, and SU is the cuff size, SU=1/2[cuff gram husband length+(0~X)], X is that the connection of cuff kilting amount straight line E ' T, TU are back sleeve planar fold.On the cuff line, get B ' point, SB '=cuff/2-0.3-⊙, (amount that ⊙ is shifted to planar fold for the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain) connects A ' B ' and stitches the plan-position line down for sleeve.With F ' E ' is broken line, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ' c, " camber line is the corresponding bank line of F ' A ' to F ' a; With E ' T is broken line, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B '.With N ' S is preceding broken line, and a ', b ' are the corresponding points of A ', B ', and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' A '.C ' C " being the back curve line, d ' d " is an elbow line place province, and elbow is economized cusp K and is connected with the P of cuff place point straight line, and PU 〉=⊙ cuts off KP, and folding elbow is economized, and the amount P ' P of cuff place increase is the amount of adorning when restraining the husband in this place's kilting.
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CN 02120534 CN1461614A (en) | 2002-05-31 | 2002-05-31 | Garment cutting method for a piece long sleeve elbow-length sleeve piece with pleated end for equipped with cuff |
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CN 02120534 CN1461614A (en) | 2002-05-31 | 2002-05-31 | Garment cutting method for a piece long sleeve elbow-length sleeve piece with pleated end for equipped with cuff |
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN105919200A (en) * | 2016-04-27 | 2016-09-07 | 广州城建职业学院 | Pattern making method of Arabian style cloak cape |
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN105919200A (en) * | 2016-04-27 | 2016-09-07 | 广州城建职业学院 | Pattern making method of Arabian style cloak cape |
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