CN1446496A - Match method between planar fold lines of one piece of sleeve and inclination of sleeve midline in clothes tailoring - Google Patents
Match method between planar fold lines of one piece of sleeve and inclination of sleeve midline in clothes tailoring Download PDFInfo
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- CN1446496A CN1446496A CN 02108609 CN02108609A CN1446496A CN 1446496 A CN1446496 A CN 1446496A CN 02108609 CN02108609 CN 02108609 CN 02108609 A CN02108609 A CN 02108609A CN 1446496 A CN1446496 A CN 1446496A
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Abstract
A method for matching the planar folding line of sleeve made of one sleeve piece and the offset angle of the central line of sleeve cape includes determining the basic shape of sleeve cap, finding out the offset angle between the central line and the reference line of sleeve, synchronously moving the front and back sleeve caps forward to form their planar folding line, and connecting said planar folding line with the profile of sleeve opening or elbow by straight line or segmentally to form a planar folding line.
Description
The present invention relates in a kind of method of another garment sleeve cutting, be meant the matching process of a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle especially
The cutting of the clothes one sleeve in the prior art, normally rule of thumb directly determine sleeve position of broken line and sleeve mountain line style (as Fig. 1), lack complete theory, often can not make the coupling of sleeve and muffs reasonable, therefore invent the matching process of a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle, become problem demanding prompt solution in the clothing behavior.
The object of the present invention is to provide the matching process of a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle,, guarantee that the coupling of sleeve and garment piece muffs is reasonable for the sleeve cutting provides theoretical foundation.
The objective of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
The matching process of a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle, at first determine sleeve mountain fundamental mode according to the muffs of front and back garment piece and the requirement of sleeve mountain moulding, again according to the variation of sleeve length, find the drift angle of sleeve center line and sleeve datum line, the three-dimensional broken line in forward and backward sleeve mountain is moved forward synchronously, constitute sleeve mountain planar fold, sleeve outline line before making it to coincide relatively.The front and back point of sleeve mountain planar fold at the cap arc line place is connected with cuff or elbow line profile place straight line or the connection of segmentation straight line, promptly constitutes the one sleeve planar fold.
Compare with the cutting of another garment sleeve in the prior art, the matching process of tailoring one sleeve planar fold of the present invention and sleeve center line drift angle, the method for determining size of the different sleeve mountain line style when having found the mountain moulding of same sleeve to change with sleeve length theoretically, plane sleeve broken line has been founded a kind of accurately rational method of cutting out.
Be described further below by embodiment and conjunction with figs. matching process a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold of the present invention and sleeve center line drift angle.
Fig. 2 is the requirement according to garment piece muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, definite sleeve mountain line style schematic diagram, and the mountain fundamental mode is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.
Fig. 3 is the schematic diagram that sleeve center line and sleeve datum line produce the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain of drift angle.
Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain before and after moving forward synchronously behind the sleeve center line deflection sleeve datum line.
Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of a slice long sleeves planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle matching process.
Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram of a slice half sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle matching process.
Fig. 7 is the schematic diagram of a slice cotta sleeve broken line.
At first see also Fig. 2 and be requirement according to garment piece muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, definite sleeve mountain line style schematic diagram, the mountain fundamental mode is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.Q is sleeve mountain top point, and QA is a sleeve center line, and " be the BICEP line, NM is the three-dimensional broken line in foresleeve mountain, and FE is three-dimensional broken line for sleeve mountain, back to be sleeve mountain height, A ' A simultaneously.
See also Fig. 3 produces the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain of drift angle for sleeve center line and sleeve datum line schematic diagram again.No matter how sleeve length, sleeve sheet change, the adjustment of sleeve mountain line style must be a foundation with sleeve mountain fundamental mode all, when sleeve length below the elbow line, sleeve center line must constitute drift angle α with sleeve datum line Q vertical line, the parallel lines of the three-dimensional broken line NM in sleeve mountain, FE and sleeve datum line produce the α drift angle simultaneously, and the horizontal range of the parallel lines N vertical line of the foresleeve mountain broken line BICEP M of place point and sleeve datum line is MG.
Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain before and after moving forward synchronously behind the sleeve center line deflection sleeve datum line.In order to make the three-dimensional broken line energy in foresleeve mountain relative with the sleeve outline line identical, reduce MG size among Fig. 3, moving forward synchronously less than in 2.5 centimeters scopes before and after the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, constitute new front and back broken line N ' M ', the F ' E ' mountain planar fold that is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve, make the parallel lines of sleeve datum line through N ', be N ' vertical line, make M ' G ' size less, N ' vertical line also is the datum line of sleeve outline line simultaneously.
Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of a slice long sleeves planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle matching process.The drift angle of the sleeve center line of long sleeves and sleeve datum line Q point vertical line is the 6-7 degree, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 1.5～2.5 centimeters synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, RT is that the one sleeve elbow of elbow line place receipts province (or cuff place receipts are economized) encloses, RT ' encloses for the one sleeve elbow of not receiving province, it is preceding sleeve planar fold that straight line connects N ' RS, SU is the cuff size, it is that elbow line place receipts are economized sleeve planar fold behind the one sleeve of (or cuff place receipts are economized) that straight line connects F ' T, TV, straight line connect F ' U for the one sleeve of not receiving province after the sleeve planar fold, T ' is the intersection point of straight line F ' U and elbow line.
Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram of a slice half sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle matching process.Sleeve length is the 2-5 degree at elbow line to the sleeve center line of the half sleeve between cuff and the drift angle of sleeve datum line Q point vertical line, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 0.5～2 centimeter synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, RT is that the one sleeve elbow of elbow line place receipts province (or cuff place receipts are economized) encloses, RT ' encloses for the one sleeve elbow of not receiving province, it is preceding sleeve planar fold that straight line connects N ' RS, SU is the cuff size, it is that elbow line place receipts are economized sleeve planar fold behind the one sleeve of (or cuff place receipts are economized) that straight line connects F ' T, TV, straight line connect F ' U for the one sleeve of not receiving province after the sleeve planar fold, T ' is the intersection point of straight line F ' U and elbow line.
Fig. 7 is the schematic diagram of a slice cotta sleeve broken line.The cotta of sleeve length more than the elbow line, the drift angle of sleeve center line and sleeve datum line is 0 degree, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain can be relative with the sleeve outline line identical, and the front and back point of the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain at the cap arc line place is connected with cuff profile place straight line, is the sleeve planar fold.SU is the cuff size, and the NS straight line is preceding sleeve planar fold, and FU is a back sleeve planar fold.
Claims (6)
1, the matching process of a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle, at first determine sleeve mountain fundamental mode according to the muffs of front and back garment piece and the requirement of sleeve mountain moulding, again according to the variation of sleeve length, find the drift angle of sleeve center line and sleeve datum line, the three-dimensional broken line in forward and backward sleeve mountain is moved forward synchronously, constitute sleeve mountain planar fold, sleeve outline line before making it to coincide relatively.The front and back point of sleeve mountain planar fold at the cap arc line place is connected with cuff or elbow line profile place straight line or the connection of segmentation straight line, promptly constitutes the one sleeve planar fold.
2, according to the matching process of claims 1 described a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle.The cutting of sleeve at first will be determined the mountain fundamental mode of tucking inside the sleeve, and sleeve mountain fundamental mode is that the moulding according to the muffs of front and back garment piece and sleeve mountain decides.The broken line of BICEP place's doubling is the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back before and after the fundamental mode of sleeve mountain.
3, according to the matching process of claims 1 described a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle.No matter sleeve length, how the sleeve sheet changes, the variation of sleeve mountain line style must be a foundation with sleeve mountain fundamental mode all, when sleeve length the time below the line, sleeve center line on the fundamental mode of sleeve mountain must produce a drift angle with the sleeve datum line, the parallel lines of the sleeve datum line at the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain and this position produce the drift angle simultaneously, for the horizontal range of the parallel lines that make three-dimensional broken line BICEP place, foresleeve mountain and this position sleeve datum line reduces, make the sleeve mountain can be relative identical with sleeve, must move forward the three-dimensional broken line in the front and back of sleeve mountain fundamental mode synchronously less than in 2.5 centimeters the scope, form the new sleeve mountain broken line mountain planar fold that is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.
4, according to the matching process of claims 1 described a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle.The drift angle of the sleeve center line of long sleeves and sleeve datum line Q point vertical line is the 6-7 degree, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 1.5～2.5 centimeters synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, RT is that the one sleeve elbow of elbow line place receipts province (or cuff place receipts are economized) encloses, RT ' encloses for the one sleeve elbow of not receiving province, it is preceding sleeve planar fold that straight line connects N ' RS, SU is the cuff size, it is that elbow line place receipts are economized sleeve planar fold behind the one sleeve of (or cuff place receipts are economized) that straight line connects F ' T, TV, straight line connect F ' U for the one sleeve of not receiving province after the sleeve planar fold, T ' is the intersection point of straight line F ' U and elbow line.
5, according to the matching process of claims 1 described a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle.Sleeve length is the 2-5 degree at elbow line to the sleeve center line of the half sleeve between cuff and the drift angle of sleeve datum line Q point vertical line, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 0.5～2 centimeter synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, RT is that the one sleeve elbow of elbow line place receipts province (or cuff place receipts are economized) encloses, RT ' encloses for the one sleeve elbow of not receiving province, it is preceding sleeve planar fold that straight line connects N ' RS, SU is the cuff size, it is that elbow line place receipts are economized sleeve planar fold behind the one sleeve of (or cuff place receipts are economized) that straight line connects F ' T, TV, straight line connect F ' U for the one sleeve of not receiving province after the sleeve planar fold, T ' is the intersection point of straight line F ' U and elbow line.
6, according to the matching process of claims 1 described a kind of tailoring one sleeve planar fold and sleeve center line drift angle.The cotta of sleeve length more than the elbow line, the drift angle of sleeve center line and sleeve datum line is 0 degree, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain can be relative with the sleeve outline line identical, and the front and back point of the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain at the cap arc line place is connected with cuff profile place straight line, is the sleeve planar fold.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 02108609 CN1446496A (en) | 2002-03-26 | 2002-03-26 | Match method between planar fold lines of one piece of sleeve and inclination of sleeve midline in clothes tailoring |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 02108609 CN1446496A (en) | 2002-03-26 | 2002-03-26 | Match method between planar fold lines of one piece of sleeve and inclination of sleeve midline in clothes tailoring |
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| CN1446496A true CN1446496A (en) | 2003-10-08 |
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| CN 02108609 Pending CN1446496A (en) | 2002-03-26 | 2002-03-26 | Match method between planar fold lines of one piece of sleeve and inclination of sleeve midline in clothes tailoring |
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Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102551246A (en) * | 2011-03-10 | 2012-07-11 | 山东如意科技集团有限公司 | Design process for sleeve elbows of suit made of woolen-silk-cotton fabric |
| CN106723566A (en) * | 2016-11-29 | 2017-05-31 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of clothes split sleeve |
| CN110215002A (en) * | 2018-03-01 | 2019-09-10 | 青岛亿艺通服饰有限公司 | A kind of men's clothing prototype matches the method for platemaking of sleeve according to muffs |
-
2002
- 2002-03-26 CN CN 02108609 patent/CN1446496A/en active Pending
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102551246A (en) * | 2011-03-10 | 2012-07-11 | 山东如意科技集团有限公司 | Design process for sleeve elbows of suit made of woolen-silk-cotton fabric |
| CN106723566A (en) * | 2016-11-29 | 2017-05-31 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of clothes split sleeve |
| CN110215002A (en) * | 2018-03-01 | 2019-09-10 | 青岛亿艺通服饰有限公司 | A kind of men's clothing prototype matches the method for platemaking of sleeve according to muffs |
| CN110215002B (en) * | 2018-03-01 | 2023-01-31 | 青岛亿艺通服饰有限公司 | Plate making method for male garment prototype according to armhole matched sleeves |
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