CN110215002A - A kind of men's clothing prototype matches the method for platemaking of sleeve according to muffs - Google Patents
A kind of men's clothing prototype matches the method for platemaking of sleeve according to muffs Download PDFInfo
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- CN110215002A CN110215002A CN201810170029.2A CN201810170029A CN110215002A CN 110215002 A CN110215002 A CN 110215002A CN 201810170029 A CN201810170029 A CN 201810170029A CN 110215002 A CN110215002 A CN 110215002A
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- sleeve
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
Abstract
System's men's clothing prototyping plate-making of the present invention matches sleeve according to muffs, and process includes building sleeve mountain frame according to human figure and from aesthetic angle initialization sleeve mountain radian and arc length using related data and drawing sleeve structure figure on muffs.Feature is using 5 points of contrapositions, segment design, accurate quantifies and framework of putting up a bridge.So that contraposition is accurate, body sleeve is parallel.The method of applied mathematics, so that finally done pattern meets original structure design.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to Clothing Structure Designs and production technical field, are related to a kind of men's clothing prototype western clothes class body sleeve structure system
Version method.
Technical background
For a long time, China's rag trade uses always traditional " proportionate allocation " to do clothing plate making.The method is based on
Ready-made clothes size pro rata point counting is matched, and the reasonability of data is poor.The especially calculating of muffs and sleeve mountain is calculated respectively because it is each,
Matching degree is very poor.Shape is also just difficult to reach aesthetical standard.So the product that can only do some relatively low sides is either more wide
The clothes of pine.
And Japanese men's clothing prototype plate-making, in the structural relation of sleeve and muffs, muffs camber line overall length is used to count
Sleeve height and sleeve width are calculated, although there is very big promotion in this way, but still the structural relation between them cannot be quantified well.Than
Such as: different figures just has different muffs shapes.But when muffs arc length is identical, identical sleeve will be obtained
Son.This is not obviously right.When using checked fabric, it will significantly show as front and rear body and be unable to plaid matching to item.Usually predecessor
Can to upper, rear piece just cannot plaid matching to item.This is also absolutely proved, caused by the arc length of sleeve and clothing body mismatches.If
The body sleeve loci of meter is unable to accurate contraposition, prevent sleeve and clothing body are from caused by keeping parallelism.
China never has perfect men's clothing prototype method for platemaking, and cultural prototype also only establishes clothing body part prototype knot
Structure design.Imperfect sleeve method for platemaking.So industry is rarely employed.As people constantly mention clothes quality requirements
The everyday enhancing with personalized customization demand is risen, method for platemaking used in industry is not able to satisfy the needs of people at present.This
It releases and sleeve method is matched according to muffs, data can be made reasonable, dimensionally stable.Substantially increase product quality.And reduce system
Modification repeatedly during work.To improve production efficiency.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem solved by the invention is to provide a kind of plate-making technology for matching sleeve according to muffs, and the method, which uses, divides
Section design, precisely quantization and bridging framework.Its core technology be to sleeve mountain radian and length do two-way control, have reached sleeve with
The good cooperation of structural relation between muffs.Ensured sleeve contraposition parallel with muffs, also just fully ensured that sleeve and
Before and after clothing body can accurate plaid matching to item.
Regardless of with the change of figure great variation occurs for the shape of muffs, the method can be always ensured that sleeve and muffs
Proper Match.The plate-making that commercial running suitable for high-end product is produced and made to measure.Specific step is as follows:
First: reasonable sleeve height and back height are formulated on clothing body prototype muffs to bit line, to ensure the Proper Match of sleeve height degree.
: sleeve height is substantially dependent upon muffs depth.But can also be swung to by shoulder seam is influenced.Sleeve is swung to when setting in sleeve seam part,
Sleeve packet protuberance, plentiful mellow and full, the effective muffs of sleeve height G ~ F=Y ~ H(is deep) × fabric thickness × 2 84%+.This is because sleeve packet is upward
When, sleeve height degree is practical to increase two fabric thicknesses.If it is seam is criticized on the shoulders, sleeve height degree will not be influenced by fabric thickness,
Therefore sleeve height can directly use Y ~ H × 84%.Conversely, showing as clothing body pressure sleeve, sleeve height when coat-sleeve seam is poured in separately to clothing body
It is then that Y ~ H × 84% subtracts fabric thickness and multiplies 2.
: back height is shown in Fig. 1 to bit line G ~ Z=G ~ F × 30/100.
Second: the determination of sleeve mountain radian: by a large amount of practice we determined that the arc of foresleeve mountain part pair central angle
Be 64 degree, rear mountain arc of tucking inside the sleeve pair central angle be 60 degree.This is because clavicle leans forward, forward, back camber line is relatively gentle for back bow
It is caused.
Third: the design of arc length, for guarantee sleeve eat gesture rationally and sleeve the full beauty in mountain.Mountain tuck inside the sleeve in muffs length
On the basis of, increase certain length as loose measure.And this loose measure is from three aspects.
: porosity: show as the sleeve packet that clothing body formation is left in the outside bulging on muffs of sleeve stitch the sole to the upper.So to formulate conjunction
The ratio of reason increases sleeve mountain arc length.Since the location of each segmentation is different, and each segmentation arc curvature of a curve is different, so,
Porosity is also just different.
: fabric stretch index: the elasticity of fabric can support the sleeve packet of protuberance plentiful smoother.Therefore, the elasticity of fabric can
To the support force of the sleeve outside bulging of small hill.According to fabric difference, the elasticity indexes of fabric are divided into three-level by we.It is every to increase by one
Grade, sleeve mountain length will increase one percentage point, such as: preferably, elasticity indexes are intended to 3 to the elasticity of good quality woollen cloth, then tucking inside the sleeve
The mountain amount of eating will increase the 3% of former muffs arc length.Common polyester fiber and high-quality cotton yarn and relatively thin wool product elastic force phase
To poor, can be set to stretch index is 2, and the sleeve mountain amount of eating will increase the 2% of muffs arc length.Elastic force is poor again to be set to 1.Sleeve
The mountain amount of eating is increased by the 1% of muffs arc length.
: the thickness of fabric: for sleeve stitch the sole to the upper on muffs, fabric thickness can make the thickness of two fabrics of increase of sleeve mountain outer ring amount
Degree.It means that the radius of this circular arc increases the thickness of 2 fabrics.According to fan-shaped arc length formula, R/180 L=N π.(L is
Arc length, N are the degree of arc, and R is radius) it can calculate in situation known to radian because of the increased arc length of fabric thickness.
Do detailed Design of length according to each position below: (muffs loci indicates with capitalization, sleeve and muffs
Loci is indicated with lowercase)
(1) foresleeve line length a ~ b: the incrementss that the position porosity is set as muffs A ~ B arc length are 6%, and stretch index increases
Value is 3 according to woollen elasticity indexes, is calculated as the 3% of A ~ B arc length.So section a ~ b=arc × 1.09 A ~ B
(2) foresleeve mountain arc length b ~ c: the 6% of this hole porosity incrementss B ~ C arc length.Fabric is still by taking woollen as an example, jerk-finger
Number is 3, and incrementss are exactly B ~ C arc length 3%.Meanwhile this section of arc is designed as 64 degree, as thickness=0.1cm of fabric, according to formula
R/180 L=N π are the thickness of two clothes since the outer ring of sleeve is increased, so being exactly 0.1 × 2 × 3.14 × 64 ÷ 180
0.22 centimetre of ≈.For convenience of calculation, we can use fabric thickness × 2.2.This section of arc length total amount b ~ c=B ~ C × 1.09+
0.22。
Cap arc line length d ~ e afterwards: porosity incrementss are set as the 6% of D ~ E arc length, fabric elasticity is still with 0.1cm thickness
For the woollen of degree, elastic force value added is 3%.Fabric thickness value added is 0.1 × 2 × 3.14 × 60 ÷, 180 ≈ 0.21.In this way
This section of arc length total amount is d ~ e=D ~ E × 1.09+0.21.Since back sleeve position needs to put together, the amount of putting together is substantially equal to fabric
Thickness increment.So this section of arc length is calculated as d ~ e=D ~ E × 1.09.Without being further added by because outer ring caused by fabric thickness increases
Dosage.
(4) length f ~ e: this section muffs of small sleeve camber line is put together because of needs, thus the porosity incrementss of setting be F ~ E ×
5%.The elastic incrementss of fabric are by taking woollen as an example, value added 3%.This section of radian is smaller, and is inner arc.There is no outer arc increases
Amount.So section arc length total amount is f ~ e=F ~ E × 1.08.
The muffs bottom end A ~ F muffs arc and sleeve are same segmental arcs, and camber line is consistent, this section of looseness is zero.
There are the line segment length and radian at each position, we can put up a bridge framework.
Step 1: a ~ b length along path being calculated, by a click and sweep to b point.Drop point is in back height on bit line.
Step 2: according to known b ~ c arc length and this section of arc pair 64 degree of the central angle radiuses for being calculated this section of arc.
(foundation formula L=N π R/180) first draws circle according to radius, then intercepts 64 degree of sectors.Mark arch string in link fan-shaped arc both ends
It is long, then mark sagitta.According to the chord length obtained by b click and sweep to c point.It falls on sleeve height line.Then sagitta is drawn again
On, to make an arc.
Step 3: according to the d ~ e arc length being calculated, according to this section of arc pair 60 degree of central angle, with formula L=N π R/
180 are calculated radius R.Then circle is drawn with radius and intercept 60 degree of sectors.Link fan-shaped arc both ends obtain arch chord length.It marks
Sagitta.According to obtained chord length by d chain-dotted line to e point, back height is fallen in on bit line.Upper sagitta is drawn on chord length line.So
Afterwards from b point by foresleeve mountain arch high point link sleeve mountain midpoint, then mountain arch high point link e point of tucking inside the sleeve after passing through.It draws along sleeve mountain arc
Line, (note c and d on sleeve mountain is same point, for mountain midpoint of tucking inside the sleeve.) and each section of arc length is met arc length obtained by original calculate.
Step 4: drawing small sleeve line.For convenience of scribing line, it is long that we first calculate straight line according to F ~ E × 1.05, makes this
Straight line is by f click and sweep to carrying on the back e2 point on high line.Then, it is taken a little for 0.5 centimetre to the left by muffs camber line K point, links e2 upwards, downwards
Camber line links f point.It draws along small sleeve camber line, and f ~ e2 camber line is made to keep arc length × 1.08 length F ~ E.
Between, muffs and sleeve are same camber line.This section does not have a loose measure, and when sewing does not also eat gesture.See Fig. 2.
After pulling sleeve mountain, to guarantee sleeve camber, degree of skewness is consistent forward with human arm, we grow up male according to China
Sub- arm is averaged about 7 degree of deflection forward.After we draw straight line from sleeve mountain center.Do 7 degree of deflection forward of oblique line.If it is
Personalized customization, so that it may make line according to the practical arm degree of skewness of dressing person.Cuff on sleeve length line mean allocation in this line two
Side.Then with before scheming to mark partially sleeve line, small sleeve line and after tuck inside the sleeve suture.Pull cuff line.It completes to match sleeve structure figure.See Fig. 3.
Detailed description of the invention
Attached drawing 1 is that sleeve height and back height are drawn on the clothing body prototype muffs of front and back to bit line schematic diagram
Attached drawing 2 is with sleeve bridging schematic diagram
Attached drawing 3 is complete structure schematic diagram of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. the effective muffs of sleeve height G ~ F=Y ~ H(is deep) × fabric thickness × 2 84%+.Back height is to bit line G ~ Z=G ~ F × 30/100.
2. foresleeve line length a ~ b: the incrementss that the position porosity is set as muffs A ~ B arc length are 6%, stretch index value added
It is 3 according to woollen elasticity indexes, is calculated as the 3% of A ~ B arc length.So section a ~ b=arc × 1.09 A ~ B.Foresleeve mountain arc length b ~
C: the 6% of this hole porosity incrementss B ~ C arc length.Fabric is still by taking woollen as an example, elasticity indexes 3, and incrementss are exactly B ~ C arc length
3%.Meanwhile this section of arc is designed as 64 degree, it is outer due to sleeve according to R/180 formula L=N π as thickness=0.1cm of fabric
Enclose it is increased be the thickness of two clothes, so being exactly 0.22 centimetre of 0.1 × 2 × 3.14 × 64 ÷, 180 ≈.For the side of calculating
Just, we can use fabric thickness × 2.2.This section of arc length total amount b ~ c=B ~ C × 1.09+0.22.Afterwards cap arc line length d ~
E: porosity incrementss are set as the 6% of D ~ E arc length, still by taking the woollen of 0.1cm thickness as an example, elastic force value added is fabric elasticity
3%.Fabric thickness value added is 0.1 × 2 × 3.14 × 60 ÷, 180 ≈ 0.21.This section of arc length total amount in this way be d ~ e=D ~ E ×
1.09+0.21.Since back sleeve position needs to put together, the amount of putting together is substantially equal to fabric thickness incrementss.So this section of arc length
It is calculated as d ~ e=D ~ E × 1.09.Length f ~ e: this section muffs of small sleeve camber line is because needs are put together, so the porosity of setting increases
Amount is F ~ E × 5%.The elastic incrementss of fabric are by taking woollen as an example, value added 3%.This section of radian is smaller, and is inner arc.It does not deposit
In outer arc incrementss.So section arc length total amount is f ~ e=F ~ E × 1.08.
3. a ~ b the length along path being calculated, by a click and sweep to b point.Drop point is in back height on bit line.According to known b ~ c arc length
With this section of arc pair 64 degree of the central angle radiuses for being calculated this section of arc.(according to formula L=N π R/180) first draws according to radius
Then circle intercepts 64 degree of sectors.Arch chord length is marked at link fan-shaped arc both ends, then marks sagitta.According to the chord length obtained
By on b click and sweep to c point.It falls on sleeve height line.Then sagitta is drawn again, to make an arc.According to the d ~ e arc being calculated
It is long, according to this section of arc pair 60 degree of central angle, radius R is calculated with formula L=N π R/180.Then circle is drawn with radius and cut
Take 60 degree of sectors.Link fan-shaped arc both ends obtain arch chord length.Mark sagitta.According to obtained chord length by d chain-dotted line to e
Point falls in back height on bit line.Upper sagitta is drawn on chord length line.Then pass through foresleeve mountain arch high point link sleeve mountain from b point
Midpoint, then mountain arch high point link e point of tucking inside the sleeve after passing through.It draws along cap arc line, (note c and d on sleeve mountain is same point, for mountain of tucking inside the sleeve
Midpoint.) and each section of arc length is met arc length obtained by original calculate.Draw small sleeve line.For convenience of scribing line, we first according to F ~ E ×
1.05 to calculate straight line long, makes this straight line by f click and sweep to carrying on the back e2 point on high line.Then, to the left by muffs camber line K point
0.5 centimetre takes a little, links e2 upwards, and downward camber line links f point.It draws along small sleeve camber line, and f ~ e2 camber line is made to keep length F ~ E
Arc length × 1.08.
4. to guarantee sleeve camber, degree of skewness is consistent forward with human arm, we are average forward according to China's adult man arm
About 7 degree of deflection.After we draw straight line from sleeve mountain center.Do 7 degree of deflection forward of oblique line.If it is personalized customization, just
Line can be made according to the practical arm degree of skewness of dressing person.Cuff on sleeve length line mean allocation on this line both sides.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201810170029.2A CN110215002B (en) | 2018-03-01 | 2018-03-01 | Plate making method for male garment prototype according to armhole matched sleeves |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201810170029.2A CN110215002B (en) | 2018-03-01 | 2018-03-01 | Plate making method for male garment prototype according to armhole matched sleeves |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN110215002A true CN110215002A (en) | 2019-09-10 |
| CN110215002B CN110215002B (en) | 2023-01-31 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| CN201810170029.2A Active CN110215002B (en) | 2018-03-01 | 2018-03-01 | Plate making method for male garment prototype according to armhole matched sleeves |
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2018
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| CN1421168A (en) * | 2001-11-27 | 2003-06-04 | 葛俊康 | Determining method of sleeve side solid angle and Xiushan height in sleeve cutting |
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| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
| JP2004027462A (en) * | 2002-05-08 | 2004-01-29 | Masako Yamazaki | Tool for measuring parts difficult to be measured in measuring dimensions of parts of body necessary for drawing clothing, and body fitting pattern along body from body to hip line, and tight pattern of sleeve |
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| CN103619203A (en) * | 2012-05-19 | 2014-03-05 | 恩瓦德控股股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing coats |
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