CN103619203A - Method for manufacturing coats - Google Patents
Method for manufacturing coats Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN103619203A CN103619203A CN201380001400.8A CN201380001400A CN103619203A CN 103619203 A CN103619203 A CN 103619203A CN 201380001400 A CN201380001400 A CN 201380001400A CN 103619203 A CN103619203 A CN 103619203A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- undersleeve
- straight line
- sleeve
- lateral plate
- line
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/02—Jackets
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
Abstract
To provide coats that appear to be typical coats but which have an allowance for movement suitable for forward elevation of the arms. Modified patterns for the side body (3) and the undersleeve (5) are manufactured by: making the lower section of the armhole in the pattern to be a straight line (AB) rather than being hollowed out in a curved shape; making the straight line to be the upper edge of the side body; slanting the straight line downward from the back body (2) side to the front body (1) side; making the sleeve attachment line of the undersleeve to be the straight line; and removing a triangular portion ([Delta]ABC), which includes the straight line, from the side body or undersleeve and attaching said triangular portion as an extension of the undersleeve or side body from the straight line. A modified pattern for the uppersleeve (4) is manufactured by adding the length by which the undersleeve sleeve attachment length has been shortened due to the undersleeve sleeve attachment width being narrowed to the uppersleeve sleeve attachment line. Fabric is cut and sewn on the basis of front body and back body patterns and the modified side body, undersleeve and uppersleeve patterns.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the preparation method of upper garment.Particularly relate to the preparation method that is suitable for Western-style clothes formula jacket.
Background technology
In the past, gym suit, work clothes etc., by using retractility raw material etc., be designed to be easy mobile arm.Yet the considered exercise performance of the common upper dresses such as Western-style clothes formula jacket is made, in the occasion of raising one's hand to wait, action can be limited by dress.
For head it off, in Japanese Patent Publication 8-6201 communique (patent documentation 1), proposed to make the upper garment of the common western-style clothes type that arm easily stretches out forward, moves up and down.In this patent documentation 1, following content is disclosed,, arrange to fin and undersleeve link, as the continuous cloth sheet of band shape of one cutting, this banded cloth sheet is continuously oblong-shaped roughly below horizontal oxter broken line L, more than the broken line L of oxter, with respect to central axis, be below 20 degree, and the wide W of the horizontal stroke of loin is that 1/4 of chest measurement half body build size adds 3～8% length.
Prior art document
Patent documentation
Patent documentation 1: Japanese Patent Publication 8-6201 communique
Summary of the invention
The problem that invention will solve
In being disclosed in the common western-style clothes type upper garment of patent documentation 1, because the banded oxter broken line L of cloth sheet is continuously level, so, from side direction toward top, lifting the action of arm easily carries out, but more than the broken line L of oxter, although tilt with respect to central axis, yet exist to be difficult to carry out direction top in the past and to lift the problem of the action of arm.
In addition, the banded position of oxter broken line L and the wide W of horizontal stroke and the armhole of loin of cloth sheet continuously independently determined, under the state having fallen at arm, at sleeve root (Japanese: sleeve つ け) around easily occur relaxing, wrinkle, have the problem of degraded appearance.
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of upper garment, this upper garment is the common upper garment of outward appearance (for example basic Western-style clothes formula jacket), sleeve is also the sleeve with the outward appearance of sizing, although maintain such outward appearance, there is on the place ahead of applicable arm the motion surplus of lifting (action of upwards lifting arm) in the past.
By the technological means that solves problem
According to the present invention, by a kind of preparation method of upper garment, achieved the above object, the garment piece of this upper garment is comprised of front cut pieces, rear garment piece and lateral plate, and sleeve is comprised of outer sleeve and undersleeve, the preparation method of this upper garment is characterised in that: the bottom that does not make the armhole of pattern is recessed into curve-like but is in line, upper end using this straight line as lateral plate, above-mentioned straight line has a down dip toward front cut pieces side direction from rear garment piece side, the upper sleeve line of undersleeve is made as to above-mentioned straight line, from above-mentioned lateral plate or above-mentioned undersleeve, the leg-of-mutton part that comprises above-mentioned straight line is removed, become the straight line from above-mentioned undersleeve or above-mentioned lateral plate by this gable and be used as the state that extension has carried out installation, make lateral plate and undersleeve correction pattern, the upper sleeve length degree of the undersleeve having shortened because of the upper sleeve narrowed width of undersleeve is partly added on the upper sleeve line of outer sleeve, make outer sleeve correction pattern, according to the pattern with front cut pieces and rear garment piece, carried out the lateral plate of revising, the pattern cutting of undersleeve and outer sleeve, sewing cloth.
Invention effect
According to the present invention, the bottom that does not make armhole is recessed into curve-like but is in line, and makes the lowest positions rising compared with the past of armhole, its result, make the branch point of garment piece and sleeve increase, so, the well-to-do amount for motion (movement is done on the place ahead of arm) at the sleeve end, correspondingly increased.
And, in the present invention, due to above-mentioned straight line is had a down dip toward front cut pieces side direction from rear garment piece side, so the direction at the bottom of the sleeve of the sleeve while having lifted obliquely upward arm is mated with incline direction in the past.Therefore, easily carry out the action of in the past lifting obliquely upward arm.
In addition, in the present invention, the upper sleeve line of the upper end of lateral plate and undersleeve is made as to straight line (becoming the position of the bottom of armhole) with same widths, make lateral plate and undersleeve there is continuity, and, from lateral plate or undersleeve, the leg-of-mutton part that comprises above-mentioned straight line is removed, becoming by this gable straight line from undersleeve or above-mentioned lateral plate is used as extension and has carried out the state installed and make pattern, according to this pattern cutting, sewing cloth, so, in armhole bottom, there is not the stitching of Joining Garment Parts and sleeve.Therefore, do not have because the thickness on nest limit produce wear time sense of discomfort.
And because leg-of-mutton extension is cropped on the bias with respect to the woven design of cloth, so the garment piece that is comprised of leg-of-mutton extension part or sleeve part have retractility, its result, becomes and easily carries out movement on the place ahead of arm and do.
In addition, according to the present invention, due to by because the upper sleeve length degree of the undersleeve that the upper sleeve narrowed width of undersleeve has shortened is partly added on the upper sleeve line of outer sleeve, make outer sleeve correction pattern, so, can make the upper garment with the outward appearance same with upper garment in the past.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is for to armhole (muffs) and arm root (Japanese: the key diagram that relation wrist つ け root) describes.
Fig. 2 (a) means the top view of the garment piece of upper garment in the past and the pattern of sleeve, (b) means the top view of the state that undersleeve shown in (a) and outer sleeve have been sewed up.
Fig. 3 is the top view of an embodiment of pattern of the present invention, (a) represents garment piece portion, (B) represents sleeve portion, (c) represents to have combined the state of undersleeve and outer sleeve.
Fig. 4 is for making the key diagram of the correction pattern of outer sleeve.
Fig. 5 similarly shows the figure of pattern shown in Fig. 3 with pattern shown in Fig. 2, Fig. 5 (a) means the top view of the garment piece of upper garment of the present invention and the pattern of sleeve, and Fig. 5 (b) means the top view of the state that undersleeve shown in Fig. 5 (a) and outer sleeve have been sewed up.
Fig. 6 (a) is the ground presentation graphs 3(a that overlaps), the figure (figure identical with Fig. 5 (a)) of garment piece shown in (b) and sleeve, (b), (c) and (d) mean the top view of the combination of lateral plate and undersleeve, represent respectively other embodiment.
The specific embodiment
Below, the embodiment shown in reference to the accompanying drawings explains the present invention.First, before the explanation specific embodiment, illustrate and reach the investigation that of the present invention, the present application person has carried out.
As shown in Figure 1, as the shape of general armhole (muffs), by oval curve, formed.This curve becomes the position that makes garment piece Yu Xiu branch, in armhole bottom, is also oval curve.Elliptical shape as armhole shape more becomes lengthwise (extending) downwards, and the public affairs of garment piece and sleeve are propped up also more decline of position, when hand arm held upward, garment piece are mentioned, and make garment piece produce distortion.Meanwhile, also bring resistance sense to the upper act motion itself of arm.
On the cross section of the arm segment of actual human body, arm root bottom is the shape that does not need elliptical configuration as described above.Therefore,, by comparing with armhole bottom being thought of as to the basic point that descends most when oval, using armhole bottom as line processing, become and armhole can be descended point set highlyer.On the other hand, even if armhole bottom is being made to the occasion of straight line, also need to be in below the rear armpit point of arm root bottom.As consideration, armhole bottom need to not exist with curve, in Fig. 1, the oblique line part between the horizontal level of rear armpit point and the curve of armhole bottom, although dug up the certainty of not diging up from garment piece in the past from garment piece.
Like this, armhole bottom can be replaced as to straight line from curve in the past, its result, can make the branch point of garment piece and sleeve rise.Thus, become can be conducive to eliminate and when hand arm held upward as described above, garment piece is mentioned, at garment piece, produce distortion, apply the phenomenons such as resistance sense to the upper act motion itself of arm.
Oxter part being made to garment piece and the continuous cloth of 1 of tucking inside the sleeve, flatly set the straight line of armhole bottom, is unsuitable from the viewpoint of the place ahead Shang Ju of arm.
In addition, under the state of armpit point relation of front and back of having followed human body, as high in the front cut pieces side of straight line of establishing armhole bottom, rear garment piece side is low, set obliquely, the backward directions below of sleeve tilt, and lift and become rightabout on the place ahead of arm, directionality aspect from sleeve, can judge it is inappropriate.
Therefore, the straight line of armhole bottom, need to establish front cut pieces side low, and rear garment piece side is high, that is, have a down dip tiltedly set from rear garment piece side toward front cut pieces side direction.The matching of the main direction of motion of this tilt generation and arm.Armhole shown in Fig. 1, in order to illustrate, although so that its underpart is removed, the state that is applicable to arm root represents, in actual clothes, armhole at arm root around not only also to make with well-to-do state at above-below direction but also at fore-and-aft direction.Therefore, the straight line of armhole bottom, even if the end of rear garment piece side is to a certain degree more taller than rear armpit point, by having a down dip toward front cut pieces side direction, the straight line of armhole bottom is not encountered rear armpit point.
Armhole bottom is in line, approach the branch location at trunk and the arm of human body, cause its position higher, the end position on the nest limit of Joining Garment Parts and sleeve more rises, and exists and brings because nest limit ora terminalis is encountered the worry of that oxter causes, the sense of discomfort while wearing, resistance sense, foreign body sensation.Therefore, preferably this straight line portion of armhole bottom is made the structure that stitching is not set.Therefore, preferably using a part for garment piece, the area below sleeve side extends, or makes sleeve bottom surface as the continuous relation of a part for fin.
Fig. 2 (a) is the top view of the garment piece of upper garment in the past and the pattern of sleeve, garment piece portion is comprised of front cut pieces 1, rear garment piece 2 and lateral plate 3, armhole integrally bending, as sew up the shoulder line of front cut pieces 1 and rear garment piece 2, as described above, the armhole of substantially elliptical is formed by front cut pieces 1, rear garment piece 2 and lateral plate 3.Sleeve portion, for easy understanding, is represented by black, outer sleeve 4 and undersleeve 5, consists of.As sew up outer sleeve 4 and undersleeve 5, and as shown in (b), become the sleeve of tubular, along the upper sleeve line of upper end, be sewn on the armhole of garment piece.The marking of checking during stitching is remembered in the drawings.
Fig. 3 is the top view of an embodiment of pattern of the present invention, and as shown in Fig. 3 (a), garment piece portion is comprised of front cut pieces 1, rear garment piece 2 and lateral plate 3.In Fig. 3 (a), the top of lateral plate 3 is being cut under state and is being represented, so, the state of the lateral plate 3 before representing to cut with dotted line.Lateral plate 3 designs as described below.
As shown in Figure 3, the bottom at the armhole of pattern, does not make armhole be recessed into curve-like, draws the straight line AB having a down dip toward front cut pieces 1 side direction from rear garment piece 2 sides.Upper end using this straight line AB as lateral plate 3, draws lateral plate 3.And, for this straight line portion in armhole bottom does not arrange stitching, so, from lateral plate 3, the leg-of-mutton part Δ ABC that comprises this straight line AB is removed.Therefore, as the cropped pattern of lateral plate 3, become the part of comparing below with straight line AC.
On the other hand, making the upper sleeve line of undersleeve 5 is straight line AB.That is, compare upper sleeve narrowed width with undersleeve 5 in the past shown in Fig. 2.And, the gable Δ ABC having removed on lateral plate 3 is arranged on the upper sleeve line AB of undersleeve 5 as extension.The direction of the ground-tint tissue of the cloth when vertical line in Fig. 3 (b) and horizontal line are cutting fabric (warp thread, weft yarn), as shown in Figure, gable Δ ABC becomes the state of deflection, produces retractility.
In addition, as shown in Figure 4, undersleeve 5 is as undersleeve 5 comparisons with in the past, and the part of oblique line disappears, that is, and and the upper sleeve length degree part that has shortened and represented by symbol BD.Therefore, tucking inside the sleeve outside 4 is added on the suitable length part EF of the upper sleeve length degree part BD with having shortened on the upper sleeve line of outer sleeve 4, make outer sleeve 4 correction pattern.
Like this, outer sleeve 4 and the undersleeve 5 revised are indicated in Fig. 3 (b), and the state of having sewed up these outer sleeves 4 and undersleeve 5 is indicated in Fig. 3 (c).As shown in Figure 3 (c), in this embodiment of the present invention, different from sleeve in the past, be the state that gable Δ ABC has given prominence to.The gable Δ ABC of this undersleeve 5 is sewn to the position of the straight line AC of lateral plate 3, and the BC of Δ ABC and rear garment piece 2 are sewed up.
As described above, by according to the cutting of pattern ground same, the sewing cloth of having mapped, can make upper garment of the present invention.
Fig. 5 has similarly showed the figure of pattern shown in Fig. 3 with pattern shown in Fig. 2, outer sleeve 4 and undersleeve 5 blackings are represented.As shown in Fig. 5 (a), the gable Δ ABC of undersleeve 5 with removing of lateral plate 3 gable consistent, form the part of lateral plate 3.
Fig. 6 (a) although 4,5 blackings of not tucking inside the sleeve represent, identical with Fig. 5 (a), with easily and Fig. 6 (b), (c) and (d) shown in the mode that compares of other embodiment represent.In the embodiment of Fig. 6 (b), although the prolongation this point using gable Δ ABC as undersleeve 5 is same as the previously described embodiments, because the position of the some C of lateral plate 3 is in front cut pieces 1 side, so, there are differences.
In the embodiment of Fig. 6 (c), from undersleeve 5, gable is removed, gable Δ ABC is arranged on lateral plate 3 as prolongation.Fig. 6 (d) with leg-of-mutton prolongation Δ ABC (c) is similarly installed on lateral plate 3, but the position opposite of some C on undersleeve 5.
Description of reference numerals:
1 front cut pieces
2 rear garment pieces
3 lateral plates
4 outer sleeves
5 undersleeves
AB straight line
Δ ABC gable
The upper sleeve length degree part of the undersleeve that BD has shortened
Claims (1)
1. a preparation method for upper garment, the garment piece of this upper garment is comprised of front cut pieces, rear garment piece and lateral plate, and sleeve is comprised of outer sleeve and undersleeve, the preparation method of this upper garment is characterised in that: the bottom of the armhole of pattern is not recessed into curve-like but is in line, upper end using this straight line as lateral plate, above-mentioned straight line has a down dip toward front cut pieces side direction from rear garment piece side, making the upper sleeve line of undersleeve is above-mentioned straight line, from above-mentioned lateral plate or above-mentioned undersleeve, the leg-of-mutton part that comprises above-mentioned straight line is removed, become the straight line from above-mentioned undersleeve or above-mentioned lateral plate this gable and be used as the state that extension has carried out installation, make lateral plate and undersleeve correction pattern, the upper sleeve length degree of the undersleeve having shortened because of the upper sleeve narrowed width of undersleeve is partly added on the upper sleeve line of outer sleeve, make outer sleeve correction pattern, according to the pattern with front cut pieces and rear garment piece, carried out the lateral plate of revising, the pattern cutting of undersleeve and outer sleeve, sewing cloth.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2012-115144 | 2012-05-19 | ||
| JP2012115144 | 2012-05-19 | ||
| PCT/JP2013/061863 WO2013175921A1 (en) | 2012-05-19 | 2013-04-23 | Method for manufacturing coats |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN103619203A true CN103619203A (en) | 2014-03-05 |
| CN103619203B CN103619203B (en) | 2015-07-29 |
Family
ID=49623620
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201380001400.8A Active CN103619203B (en) | 2012-05-19 | 2013-04-23 | The preparation method of jacket |
Country Status (3)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP5462422B1 (en) |
| CN (1) | CN103619203B (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2013175921A1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN110215002A (en) * | 2018-03-01 | 2019-09-10 | 青岛亿艺通服饰有限公司 | A kind of men's clothing prototype matches the method for platemaking of sleeve according to muffs |
Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US1973419A (en) * | 1933-12-29 | 1934-09-11 | Stadium Underwear Company Inc | Garment |
| CH267103A (en) * | 1948-04-02 | 1950-03-15 | Jamieson Ralph | Garment with sleeves. |
| JPH06264303A (en) * | 1992-10-26 | 1994-09-20 | Kanichi Murase | Clothing |
| JPH0931717A (en) * | 1995-07-20 | 1997-02-04 | Kanichi Murase | Clothes |
| JP2002161420A (en) * | 2000-11-27 | 2002-06-04 | Kunihiko Tsukada | Jacket with sleeve |
| JP2002235213A (en) * | 2001-02-06 | 2002-08-23 | Mizuno Corp | Casual shirt for sports, work, or general |
| CN201167585Y (en) * | 2008-02-27 | 2008-12-24 | 李宁体育(上海)有限公司 | Sport jacket |
-
2013
- 2013-04-23 WO PCT/JP2013/061863 patent/WO2013175921A1/en active Application Filing
- 2013-04-23 JP JP2013544040A patent/JP5462422B1/en active Active
- 2013-04-23 CN CN201380001400.8A patent/CN103619203B/en active Active
Patent Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US1973419A (en) * | 1933-12-29 | 1934-09-11 | Stadium Underwear Company Inc | Garment |
| CH267103A (en) * | 1948-04-02 | 1950-03-15 | Jamieson Ralph | Garment with sleeves. |
| JPH06264303A (en) * | 1992-10-26 | 1994-09-20 | Kanichi Murase | Clothing |
| JPH0931717A (en) * | 1995-07-20 | 1997-02-04 | Kanichi Murase | Clothes |
| JP2002161420A (en) * | 2000-11-27 | 2002-06-04 | Kunihiko Tsukada | Jacket with sleeve |
| JP2002235213A (en) * | 2001-02-06 | 2002-08-23 | Mizuno Corp | Casual shirt for sports, work, or general |
| CN201167585Y (en) * | 2008-02-27 | 2008-12-24 | 李宁体育(上海)有限公司 | Sport jacket |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN110215002A (en) * | 2018-03-01 | 2019-09-10 | 青岛亿艺通服饰有限公司 | A kind of men's clothing prototype matches the method for platemaking of sleeve according to muffs |
| CN110215002B (en) * | 2018-03-01 | 2023-01-31 | 青岛亿艺通服饰有限公司 | Plate making method for male garment prototype according to armhole matched sleeves |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP5462422B1 (en) | 2014-04-02 |
| JPWO2013175921A1 (en) | 2016-01-12 |
| WO2013175921A1 (en) | 2013-11-28 |
| CN103619203B (en) | 2015-07-29 |
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