CN1451327A

CN1451327A - Apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting method

Info

Publication number: CN1451327A
Application number: CN 02108961
Authority: CN
Inventors: 葛俊康
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2002-04-14
Filing date: 2002-04-14
Publication date: 2003-10-29

Abstract

A segmental back fold line cutting method for one-piece sleeve for clothes fitting well includes determining the basic shape of sleeve cap, moving the stereo fold line of sleeve cap to planar fold line according to deviation angle between the central line of sleeve cap and the reference line of sleeve, and linking the back planar fold line of sleeve cap and more than 3 straight line of sleeve to sleeve opening.

Description

A kind of method of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting

The present invention relates to be meant the method for fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting especially in a kind of method of another garment sleeve cutting.

The cutting of the clothes one sleeve in the prior art, normally rule of thumb directly determine sleeve back position of broken line and sleeve mountain line style (as Fig. 1), changed the back position of broken line of sleeve mountain fundamental mode, often can not make the coupling of sleeve and muffs reasonable, influence the effect of clothes, therefore the method for inventing a kind of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting has become problem demanding prompt solution in the clothing industry.

The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of method of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting, guarantee the perfection that rationally reaches the sleeve moulding of sleeve and garment piece muffs coupling.

The objective of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:

A kind of method of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting, at first determine sleeve mountain fundamental mode according to front and back muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, again according to the drift angle of half sleeve and long sleeves sleeve center line and sleeve datum line, three-dimensional sleeve mountain broken line is to planar fold before and after moving, sleeve mountain back plane broken line and three above straight lines of sleeve body are connected to cuff, do not change sleeve mountain back plane broken line, increase the method for cutting out of back curve line quantity.

Compare with the cutting of another garment sleeve in the prior art, the method of a kind of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting of the present invention, guarantee coincideing of sleeve mountain line style and muffs, and made the sleeve body more meet human body, changed original irrational method of cutting out.

Be described further below by embodiment and conjunction with figs. method a kind of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is the requirement according to garment piece muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, definite sleeve mountain line style schematic diagram, and the mountain fundamental mode is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.

Fig. 3 is the schematic diagram that sleeve center line and sleeve datum line produce the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain of drift angle.

Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional folding in sleeve mountain before and after moving forward synchronously behind the sleeve center line deflection sleeve datum line.

Fig. 5 is the method schematic diagram of broken line section cutting behind combination type a slice long sleeves.

Fig. 6 is the method schematic diagram of broken line section cutting behind combination type a slice half sleeve.

At first see also Fig. 2 and be requirement according to garment piece muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, definite sleeve mountain line style schematic diagram, the mountain fundamental mode is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.Q is sleeve mountain top point, and QA is a sleeve center line, is sleeve mountain height, A ' A simultaneously, and " be the BICEP line, NM is the three-dimensional broken line in foresleeve mountain, and FE is the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, back.

See also Fig. 3 produces the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain of drift angle for sleeve center line and sleeve datum line schematic diagram again.No matter how sleeve length, sleeve sheet change, the adjustment of sleeve mountain line style must be a foundation with sleeve mountain fundamental mode all, when sleeve length below the elbow line, sleeve center line must constitute drift angle α with sleeve datum line Q vertical line, the parallel lines of the three-dimensional broken line NM in sleeve mountain, FE and sleeve datum line produce the α drift angle simultaneously, and the horizontal range of the parallel lines N vertical line of the foresleeve mountain broken line BICEP M of place point and sleeve datum line is MG.

Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional folding in sleeve mountain before and after moving forward synchronously behind the sleeve center line deflection sleeve datum line.In order to make the three-dimensional broken line energy in foresleeve mountain relative with the sleeve outline line identical, reduce MG size among Fig. 3, moving forward synchronously less than in 2.5 centimeters scopes before and after the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, constitute new front and back broken line N ' M ', the F ' E ' mountain planar fold that is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve, make the parallel lines of sleeve datum line through N ', be N ' vertical line, make M ' G ' size less, N ' vertical line also is the datum line of sleeve outline line simultaneously.

Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of broken line section cutting method behind combination type a slice long sleeves.The drift angle of the sleeve center line of long sleeves and sleeve datum line Q point vertical line is the 6-7 degree, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 1.5～2.5 centimeters synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, and RT is that elbow encloses size, and N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, and SU is the cuff size, and it is back sleeve planar fold that straight line connects E ' T, TU.With F ' E ' is broken line, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ' c, " camber line is the corresponding bank line of F ' A ' to F ' a; With E ' T is broken line, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B.With N ' S is preceding broken line, and a ', b ' are the corresponding points of A ' B, and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' A '.

Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram of broken line section cutting method behind combination type a slice half sleeve.Sleeve length is the 2-5 degree at elbow line to the sleeve center line of the half sleeve between cuff and the drift angle of sleeve datum line Q point vertical line, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 0.5～2 centimeter synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, and RT is that elbow encloses size, and N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, and SU is the cuff size, and it is back sleeve planar fold that straight line connects E ' T, TU.With F ' E ' is broken line, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ' c, " camber line is the corresponding bank line of F ' A ' to F ' a; With E ' T is broken line, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B.With N ' S is preceding broken line, and a ', b ' are the corresponding points of A ', B, and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' A '.

Claims

1, a kind of method of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting, at first determine sleeve mountain fundamental mode according to front and back muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, again according to the drift angle of half sleeve and long sleeves sleeve center line and sleeve datum line, three-dimensional sleeve mountain broken line is to planar fold before and after moving, sleeve mountain back plane broken line and three above straight lines of sleeve body are connected to cuff, do not change sleeve mountain back plane broken line, increase the method for cutting out of back curve line quantity.

2, according to the method for claims 1 described a kind of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting.The cutting of sleeve at first will be determined the mountain fundamental mode of tucking inside the sleeve, and sleeve mountain fundamental mode is that the moulding according to the muffs of front and back garment piece and sleeve mountain decides.The broken line of BICEP place's doubling is the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back before and after the fundamental mode of sleeve mountain.

3, according to the method for claims 1 described a kind of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting.No matter sleeve length, how the sleeve sheet changes, the variation of sleeve mountain line style must be a foundation with sleeve mountain fundamental mode all, when sleeve length the time below the line, sleeve center line on the fundamental mode of sleeve mountain must produce a drift angle with the sleeve datum line, the parallel lines of the sleeve datum line at the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain and this position produce the drift angle simultaneously, for the horizontal range of the parallel lines that make three-dimensional broken line BICEP place, foresleeve mountain and this position sleeve datum line reduces, make the sleeve mountain can be relative identical with sleeve, must move forward the three-dimensional broken line in the front and back of sleeve mountain fundamental mode synchronously less than in 2.5 centimeters the scope, form the new sleeve mountain broken line mountain planar fold that is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.

4, according to the method for claims 1 described a kind of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting.The drift angle of the sleeve center line of long sleeves and sleeve datum line Q point vertical line is the 6-7 degree, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 1.5～2.5 centimeters synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, and RT is that elbow encloses size, and N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, and SU is the cuff size, and it is back sleeve planar fold that straight line connects E ' T, TU.With F ' E ' is broken line, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ' c, " camber line is the corresponding bank line of F ' A ' to F ' a; With E ' T is broken line, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B.With N ' S is preceding broken line, and a ', b ' are the corresponding points of A ', B, and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' A '.

5, according to the method for claims 1 described a kind of apparel construction fit type one-piece sleeve back hem line section cutting.Sleeve length is the 2-5 degree at elbow line to the sleeve center line of the half sleeve between cuff and the drift angle of sleeve datum line Q point vertical line, the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, front and back moves forward 0.5～2 centimeter synchronously, constituting new broken line N ' M ' is foresleeve mountain planar fold, F ' E ' is sleeve mountain, a back planar fold, N ' the parallel lines of making the sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, be the datum line of sleeve outline line, i.e. N ' some vertical line.Elbow line R is on N ' vertical line, and RT is that elbow encloses size, and N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, and SU is the cuff size, and it is back sleeve planar fold that straight line connects E ' T, TU.With F ' E ' is broken line, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ' c, " camber line is the corresponding bank line of F ' A ' to F ' a; With E ' T is broken line, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B.With N ' S is preceding broken line, and a ', b ' are the corresponding points of A ', B, and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' A '.