CN113749339A - Plate making method for flexible and loose body and sleeve clothes - Google Patents
Plate making method for flexible and loose body and sleeve clothes Download PDFInfo
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- CN113749339A CN113749339A CN202110969925.7A CN202110969925A CN113749339A CN 113749339 A CN113749339 A CN 113749339A CN 202110969925 A CN202110969925 A CN 202110969925A CN 113749339 A CN113749339 A CN 113749339A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/06—Patterns on paper
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
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- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
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Abstract
The invention discloses a plate making method of flexible and loose body-sleeve clothing, which relates to the technical field of clothing plate making and specifically comprises the following steps: drawing a basic frame of the front and the rear garment pieces, making a chest line, a waist line and a hip line, making a back scapular province, making a side suture line and a chest splitting amount, drawing a basic sleeve, drawing an armhole arc line and an arm hole line of a dropped shoulder sleeve, dividing the sleeve fat line into two equal parts to form a big sleeve piece and a small sleeve piece basic arm hole arc line of the two sleeve pieces, deleting a folded part of the front sleeve, and drawing a patchcord line; the invention not only adjusts the linkage of the body and the sleeves, has strong adaptability to various loose clothes and high maturity, but also deeply studies the relationship among the chest circumference size, the armhole depth and the armhole depth, summarizes the size matching data table of the chest circumference, the armhole depth and the armhole depth of the loose clothes, and has the characteristics of convenience, rapidness and accuracy.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of garment plate making, in particular to a plate making method of flexible and loose garment with body and sleeves.
Background
The loose clothing has a large market share under the influence of fashion trends of the clothing. The current method for making loose and comfortable clothes mainly comprises the following three methods: the method comprises the following steps: the method for making the pattern by using tools and materials such as a three-dimensional model, white grey cloth, pins and the like is mainly used for making short embroidered cape hanging, hanging and fluffy night dresses and stage clothes, and is also used for making loose clothes, so that the method is used for making loose clothes in enterprises at present and is not much and low in popularity; secondly, a prototype method: adopting Japanese culture type garment prototype to make loose garment, the plate making mode is that firstly making female culture type coat prototype, then making bust loose on the basis of the prototype, because the coat prototype needs to be drawn or prepared in advance, the adoption rate of the method in enterprises is not high; thirdly, a proportion distribution method: the proportional distribution method is the most used method in the prior garment manufacturing industry in China for plate making and cutting, and the method refers to the chest degree method of Japanese and is a garment cutting method created by taking the actual chest circumference of a ready-made garment as a base number. The proportion distribution method is mostly used for the plate making of men's and women's tops, coats, trousers and other articles, and the proportion distribution method is also mostly adopted for loose clothes;
the existing clothing plate making method has the following problems:
1. although the vertical cutting method is intuitive, the plate making process is relatively complicated because it requires many processes such as material consumption and copying of a flat pattern, and the copied flat pattern is also corrected appropriately. The main problems are long time consumption and uneconomic; 2. when the loose garment is made by adopting a prototype method, the chest size, fat sleeve size and the like are added, so that the accuracy and stability of garment modeling are insufficient; 3. the proportion distribution method calculates the size of each part through a certain formula proportion, is a generalized plate making method, lacks methods for balancing clothes bodies such as cutting, gathering and the like, and when the method is used for loose clothes plate making, the accuracy and the balance of modeling need to be improved; therefore, a plate making method of the flexible and loose body-sleeve garment is provided.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the following defects in the prior art:
1. the problem of unbalanced front and back garment pieces of loose and comfortable clothes is solved;
2. the phenomenon that the front and back loosening amount of the loose clothes is unreasonable is solved;
3. solves the problem that the relation of the chest circumference, the armhole depth and the sleeve fat of the loose garment is difficult to match.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a plate making method for flexible and loose clothing with sleeves comprises the following specific steps:
s1, drawing the basic frames of the front and the rear garment pieces, and making a chest line, a waist line and a hip line:
s2, making a posterior scapula: drawing a horizontal line with the length of 21cm vertical to the back midline, intersecting with the back shoulder oblique line, determining a back shoulder width point, and drawing a front chest width line parallel to the front center line by 16 cm; drawing a back width line parallel to the back central line by 17.5cm, wherein the BP point is 9cm away from the front central line, taking the back small shoulder width length-1 as the front small shoulder width size, determining the front small shoulder width, halving the back small shoulder width, and making a midline of a back shoulder province at an halving point, wherein the midline is 9cm long, and the width is 2cm, and the length is 9 cm;
s3, side stitch making and breast splitting amount: intersecting with a vertical line which is used as a chest line at a BP point to a front small shoulder line, taking the line as a unilateral dart line of a chest dart, taking 17 degrees as the size of the chest dart, drawing an equal-length line of the other side chest dart, opening the chest dart, taking the intersection point of a front chest wide line and the chest line to one half of the intersection point of a back wide line and the chest line, downwards making a side suture line, and measuring 3.5cm to the left from the intersection point of an upper flat line and a front middle line to obtain the amount of chest splitting;
s4, drawing basic sleeves: unfolding 1.3cm at the horizontal line from the BP point to the front central line, trimming the front central line, removing redundant lines, drawing an armhole arc line, dropping 2.4cm from the rear upper flat line to determine a rear neckline deep line, dropping 7.5cm from the front central line to determine a front neckline deep line, and drawing a front and rear neckline arc line; measuring 11cm from the lower part of the rear central point, making a horizontal line to intersect with an arc line of a rear sleeve cage, cutting the horizontal line, unfolding for 0.8cm, combining a rear shoulder province and a front chest province, opening front and rear armholes, taking one half of the province of the front sleeve cage opening, taking the half as the shearing and lifting amount of the corresponding position of a back sheet, removing redundant lines, dropping 7cm from the depth line of the front and rear armholes, connecting the front and rear armhole lines, measuring 10cm upwards from the bottom ends of the front and rear armhole lines, making armhole alignment marks, aligning the positions by the front and rear armholes, drawing a base sleeve according to the size by crossing the downward vertical line with a hypocycloid;
s5, drawing armhole arc lines and sleeve ridge lines of the raglan sleeves: making alignment marks on the sleeve top lines according to the lengths of front and rear armholes, respectively taking 10cm from the bottom ends of the front and rear sleeve top lines, making alignment marks, using the front and rear sleeve top alignment mark points as reference points, coinciding the front and rear sleeve alignment mark points of the front and rear sheets, extending the rear shoulder line by 1cm, using the front and rear sleeve alignment mark points as central points, rotating the front and rear sheets toward the sleeve top peaks to make the front and rear small shoulder line extension line points fall on the sleeve top arc lines, making the distance between the two points about 0.8-1.2 cm, using the front sleeve alignment mark point as a circular point, drawing a circle with a radius of 4cm, making an auxiliary circle with a front chest tracking and a looseness, using the rear sleeve alignment mark point as a circle center, drawing a circle with a radius of 9cm, making an auxiliary circle with a back chest tracking and a looseness, using the rear small shoulder line extension line end point as a circle center, rotating the rear middle sheet to the left, making the rear sleeve alignment mark point fall on the circumference line, taking the end point of the front small shoulder as a circle center, rotating the front middle piece rightwards to enable the front sleeve cage alignment mark point to fall on a circumferential line, connecting the end point of the front small shoulder with the extension line end point of the rear small shoulder line into a straight line, taking one half point of the line segment, making a new sleeve central line downwards, measuring 9cm at the upper end of the sleeve central line, and drawing out an armhole arc line and an armhole top line of the falling shoulder sleeve through the point;
s6, dividing the sleeve fertilizer line into two equal parts: firstly aligning mark points, secondly performing process poking treatment on the middle end of a front small shoulder line, finally poking 0.7cm from the middle point of the sleeve to the sleeve top arc line aligning point, drawing an auxiliary line in the direction parallel to the sleeve middle line by 5cm and in the front sleeve direction, and dividing the sleeve fertilizer lines on the left side and the right side of the auxiliary line into two equal parts;
s7, forming a big sleeve and a small sleeve basic sleeve cap arc line of the two sleeves: horizontally overturning and copying front and rear sleeve cap arc lines, enabling the bottom ends of the front and rear sleeve cap arc lines to coincide with the intersection points of the sleeve center line auxiliary line and the sleeve fertilizer line, enabling the copied front and rear sleeve cap arc lines and the original sleeve cap arc lines to generate 2 intersection points, respectively leading a vertical line downwards from the 2 intersection points to be intersected with the cuff line, finally making two parallel lines at each 3cm left and right of a vertical line led by the intersection points of the two front sleeve cap arc lines, and deleting redundant arc lines to form a large sleeve sheet and a small sleeve sheet basic sleeve cap arc line of two sleeves;
s8, deleting the folded part of the front sleeves;
s9, drawing a splicing line: 1.2cm above and below the cuff line respectively, making two parallel lines, and extending the upper parallel line by 5cm to the right; making circles of 1.5cm and 1.8cm at the intersection points of the two front sleeve splicing auxiliary lines and the sleeve elbow lines; making circles of 0.7cm and 5cm at the intersection of the two front sleeve splicing auxiliary lines and the cuff line; respectively drawing front sleeve patchcord lines of the big sleeve and front sleeve patchcord lines of the small sleeve; two intersection points are generated between the splicing line of the front sleeves and the cuff line of the large sleeves and the small sleeves, the midpoint of the two intersection points is taken as the center of a circle, a circle is made by taking 14.5cm as the radius, and the center of the circle and the intersection point of the parallel line below the cuffs and the circumference are connected; taking the intersection point of the back sleeve splicing auxiliary line and the sleeve fertilizer line as a central point and taking 5cm as a radius to make a circle; taking the intersection point of the back sleeve piece splicing auxiliary line and the sleeve elbow line as a center point, taking 3cm as a radius to make a circle, taking the intersection point of the sleeve opening line and the auxiliary line below the sleeve opening as a circle center, taking 1cm as a radius to make a circle, and connecting the back sleeve piece splicing auxiliary lines of the big sleeve piece and the small sleeve piece; the front end of the small sleeve arc line is reduced by 0.7cm, the small sleeve arc line is adjusted, and the back seam line of the large sleeve and the small sleeve is smoothly drawn.
As a further scheme of the invention: in the step S1, the length of the front and rear garment piece base frames is 90cm, and the width of the front and rear garment piece base frames is 47 cm;
wherein, the specific steps of making the chest line, the waist line and the hip line are as follows: the front upper flat line is lifted by 1cm on the basic frame; the front horizontal opening width is 6.8cm, the back horizontal opening collar width is 7.3cm, and the angle of the front shoulder is 15: 6. back shoulder line bevel angle 15: and 5, making front and back shoulder oblique lines, and making a chest line, a waist line and a hip line respectively at a distance of 25cm, 40cm and 59cm from the front upper flat line.
As a further scheme of the invention: the specific steps for the position mark points in step S6 are as follows:
A. position mark points are marked on the front and rear small shoulder lines:
B. alignment mark points are arranged on the front and rear armhole arcs: shortening the upper end of the rear side seam by 1.2cm, shortening the upper end of the front side seam by 1.3cm, adjusting the armhole arc end point to the new upper end point of the side seam, connecting the front and rear armhole arc lines and the front and rear armhole arc lines to be smooth, taking 10cm from the upper ends of the front and rear armhole arc lines respectively, and marking opposite sites;
C. aligning the mark points on the top of the sleeve: marking the contraposition points by respectively taking 9.4cm from the left and the right of the sleeve vertex.
As a further scheme of the invention: the specific steps of making the alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines are as follows:
SS1, which is parallel to the front small shoulder line by 0.15cm, drawing two auxiliary lines above and below the front small shoulder line, dividing the front small shoulder line and the two parallel auxiliary lines into three equal parts, and connecting a front shoulder neck point, a first equal division point of the auxiliary line below the front small shoulder line, a second equal division point of the auxiliary line above the front small shoulder line and a middle point of a connecting line of a front small shoulder end point and a rear small shoulder line extension line end point into smooth arc lines;
SS2, connecting the middle point of the back small shoulder line and the middle point of the connecting line of the front small shoulder end point and the extension line end point of the back small shoulder line into a smooth arc line;
SS3, 2cm from the shoulder neck point to the shoulder point, and the position mark points are respectively arranged on the front and back small shoulder lines.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the distribution of the front and back chest circumference looseness accords with the human engineering, and is convenient for movement and beautiful: when loose clothes are processed in the prior art, the chest circumference of the front piece and the chest circumference of the rear piece are generally processed to be equal in size, or the chest circumference of the front piece is slightly larger than the chest circumference of the rear piece, so that the arms generally move forwards when a human body moves, and the chest circumferences of the rear piece are properly processed to be larger, which is beneficial to arm movement; the front part chest circumference of the plate making method is small, the back part chest circumference is large, the front part and the back part on the model form contrast, and the plate making method has aesthetic feeling.
2. The body shape characteristics of the human body are met, and the balance of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece is excellent: because the front and back body surfaces of the female human body are in a curved surface and fluctuant shape, the side materials of the loose garment can generate forward, middle and backward thrust under the action of gravity, so that the front center lines are easily overlapped and lifted, and the back middle piece is not adhered.
3. The linkage adjustment of the coat body and the sleeves has strong adaptability to various loose clothes and high maturity: the plate making method carries out deep research on the relation among the chest circumference size, the armhole depth and the armhole depth, summarizes a size matching data table of the chest circumference, the armhole depth and the armhole depth of the loose garment, and has the characteristics of convenience, rapidness and accuracy by comparing the table.
4. The sleeve shape accords with the human arm shape, and is comfortable and beautiful: when the arm of human body naturally droops, the small arm slightly leans forward, and the plate making method adopts a forward plate making method below the elbow to make the shaping fit with the human body, thereby solving the problems of arm compression by the sleeve, unattractive shaping and the like.
Drawings
The accompanying drawings, which are included to provide a further understanding of the invention and are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification, illustrate embodiments of the invention and together with the description serve to explain the principles of the invention and not to limit the invention.
FIGS. 1-3 are schematic diagrams of step S5 according to the present invention;
FIGS. 4-5 are schematic diagrams of step S6 according to the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of step S7 according to the present invention;
FIGS. 7-8 are schematic diagrams of step S8 according to the present invention;
FIGS. 9-14 are schematic diagrams of step S9 according to the present invention;
FIG. 15 is a flow chart of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments.
The embodiment discloses a plate making method of flexible and loose body sleeve clothing, which comprises the following specific steps:
referring to fig. 1-15, front and rear panel base frames are drawn and chest, waist and hip lines are made;
specifically, the length of the basic frame of the front and rear garment pieces is 90cm, and the width of the basic frame of the front and rear garment pieces is 47 cm;
the specific steps of making the chest, waist and hip lines in this embodiment are: the front upper flat line is lifted by 1cm on the basic frame; the front horizontal opening width is 6.8cm, the back horizontal opening collar width is 7.3cm, and the angle of the front shoulder is 15: 6. back shoulder line bevel angle 15: 5, making a front shoulder oblique line and a rear shoulder oblique line, and respectively making a chest line, a waist line and a hip line which are 25cm, 40cm and 59cm away from the front upper flat line;
scapular province after the operation: drawing a horizontal line which is 21cm long and is vertical to the back central line, intersecting with the back shoulder oblique line, determining a back shoulder width point, and drawing a chest width line which is parallel to the front central line by 16 cm; drawing a back width line parallel to the back center line by 17.5cm, wherein the BP point is 9cm away from the front center line, the back small shoulder width length-1 is taken as the size of the front small shoulder width, the front small shoulder width is determined, the back small shoulder width is divided into two halves, and a midline of a back shoulder province is made at the dividing point, the midline is 9cm long, the width is 2cm is saved, and the length is 9 cm;
side suture and chest splitting amount: intersecting with a vertical line which is used as a chest line at a BP point to a front small shoulder line, taking the line as a unilateral dart line of a chest dart, taking 17 degrees as the size of the chest dart, drawing an equal-length line of the other side chest dart, opening the chest dart, taking the intersection point of a front chest wide line and the chest line to one half of the intersection point of a back wide line and the chest line, downwards making a side suture line, and measuring 3.5cm to the left from the intersection point of an upper flat line and a front middle line to obtain the amount of chest splitting;
drawing basic sleeves: unfolding 1.3cm at the horizontal line from the BP point to the front central line, trimming the front central line, removing redundant lines, drawing an armhole arc line, dropping 2.4cm from the rear upper flat line to determine a rear neckline deep line, dropping 7.5cm from the front central line to determine a front neckline deep line, and drawing a front and rear neckline arc line; measuring 11cm from the lower part of the rear central point, making a horizontal line to intersect with an arc line of a rear sleeve cage, cutting the horizontal line, unfolding for 0.8cm, combining a rear shoulder province and a front chest province, opening front and rear armholes, taking one half of the province of the front sleeve cage opening, taking the half as the shearing and lifting amount of the corresponding position of a back sheet, removing redundant lines, dropping 7cm from the depth line of the front and rear armholes, connecting the front and rear armhole lines, measuring 10cm upwards from the bottom ends of the front and rear armhole lines, making armhole alignment marks, aligning the positions by the front and rear armholes, drawing a base sleeve according to the size by crossing the downward vertical line with a hypocycloid;
referring to fig. 1-3, the armhole arc and the sleeve ridge line of the raglan sleeve are drawn: making alignment marks on the sleeve top lines according to the lengths of front and rear armholes, respectively taking 10cm from the bottom ends of the front and rear sleeve top lines, making alignment marks, using the front and rear sleeve top alignment mark points as reference points, coinciding the front and rear sleeve alignment mark points of the front and rear sheets, extending the rear shoulder line by 1cm, using the front and rear sleeve alignment mark points as central points, rotating the front and rear sheets toward the sleeve top peak, making the front and rear small shoulder line extension line points fall on the sleeve top arc line, making the distance between the two points about 0.8-1.2 cm, using the front sleeve alignment mark point as a round point, drawing a circle with a radius of 4cm, making an auxiliary circle with a looseness added to the front chest periphery, using the rear sleeve alignment mark point as a circle center, drawing a circle with a radius of 9cm, making an auxiliary circle with looseness added to the rear chest periphery, using the rear small shoulder line extension point as a circle center, rotating the rear middle sheet to the left, making the rear shoulder alignment mark point fall on the circumference line, taking the end point of the front small shoulder as the circle center, rotating the front middle piece rightwards to enable the alignment mark point of the front sleeve cage to fall on a circumferential line, connecting the end point of the front small shoulder with the extension line end point of the rear small shoulder line into a straight line, taking a half point of the line segment, making a new sleeve middle line downwards, measuring 9cm at the upper end of the sleeve middle line, and drawing out an armhole arc line and an armhole line of the falling shoulder sleeve through the point;
referring to fig. 4-8, the sleeve fertilizer line is divided equally into two equal parts: firstly, aligning mark points, secondly, performing process poking treatment on the middle end of a front small shoulder line, finally, poking 0.7cm from the middle point of the sleeve to the corresponding point of an sleeve top arc line, drawing an auxiliary line in the direction parallel to the central line of the sleeve by 5cm and in the front sleeve direction, and equally dividing the sleeve fat lines on the left side and the right side of the auxiliary line into two equal parts;
specifically, the specific steps for the position mark point are as follows: firstly, the position marking points are aligned on the front and back small shoulder lines: secondly, the position mark points are aligned on the front and back armhole arcs: shortening the upper end of the rear side seam by 1.2cm, shortening the upper end of the front side seam by 1.3cm, adjusting the armhole arc end point to the new upper end point of the side seam, connecting the front and rear armhole arc lines and the front and rear armhole arc lines to be smooth, taking 10cm from the upper ends of the front and rear armhole arc lines respectively, and marking opposite sites; finally, the alignment mark points are aligned on the sleeve crest points: marking alignment points by respectively taking 9.4cm on the left and right of sleeve vertex;
in addition, the embodiment further discloses a specific step of positioning the mark points on the front and rear shoulder lines: drawing two auxiliary lines above and below the front small shoulder line, dividing the front small shoulder line and the two parallel auxiliary lines into three equal parts, and connecting a front shoulder neck point, a first equal division point of the auxiliary line below the front small shoulder line, a second equal division point of the auxiliary line above the front small shoulder line and a middle point of a connecting line of a front small shoulder end point and a rear small shoulder line extension line end point into smooth arc lines; secondly, connecting the middle point of the rear small shoulder line and the middle point of the connecting line of the front small shoulder end point and the rear small shoulder line extension line end point into a smooth arc line; finally, taking 2cm from the shoulder neck point to the shoulder point, and respectively making alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines;
forming a big sleeve patch and a small sleeve patch basic sleeve cap arc line of two pieces of sleeves: horizontally overturning and copying front and rear sleeve cap arc lines, enabling bottom points of the front and rear sleeve cap arc lines to coincide with intersection points of a sleeve center line auxiliary line and a sleeve fertilizer line, enabling the copied front and rear sleeve cap arc lines and an original sleeve cap arc line to generate 2 intersection points, respectively leading a vertical line downwards from the 2 intersection points to be intersected with a cuff line, finally making two parallel lines at each 3cm left and right of a vertical line led by the intersection points of the two front sleeve cap arc lines, and deleting redundant arc lines to form a large sleeve sheet and a small sleeve sheet basic sleeve cap arc line of two sleeves; deleting the part of the front sleeve which is turned;
referring to fig. 9-14, a patchcord line is drawn: making two parallel lines on the cuff line at 1.2cm above and below the cuff line, and extending one parallel line above to the right by 5 cm; making circles of 1.5cm and 1.8cm at the intersection points of the two front sleeve splicing auxiliary lines and the sleeve elbow lines; making a circle with the length of 0.7cm and 5cm at the intersection point of the two front sleeve splicing auxiliary lines and the sleeve opening line; as shown in fig. 12, a front sleeve patchcord line of the big sleeve piece and a front sleeve patchcord line of the small sleeve piece are drawn respectively; two intersection points are generated between the splicing line of the front sleeves and the cuff line of the large sleeves and the small sleeves, the midpoint of the two intersection points is taken as the center of a circle, a circle is made by taking 14.5cm as the radius, and the center of the circle and the parallel line below the cuffs are connected with the intersection point of the circumference; taking the intersection point of the back sleeve splicing seam auxiliary line and the sleeve fertilizer line as a central point and taking 5cm as a radius to make a circle; taking the intersection point of the back sleeve piece auxiliary line and the sleeve elbow line as a central point, taking 3cm as a radius to make a circle, taking the intersection point of the cuff line and the auxiliary line below the cuff as a circle center, and taking 1cm as a radius to make a circle, as shown in fig. 13, connecting the back sleeve piece auxiliary lines of the big sleeve piece and the small sleeve piece; the front end of the small sleeve arc line is lowered by 0.7cm, the small sleeve arc line is adjusted, and as shown in fig. 14, the back patchwork line of the large sleeve and the small sleeve is smoothly drawn.
In conclusion, the plate making method has strong adaptability to various loose clothes and high maturity through linkage adjustment of the clothes body and the sleeves. The plate making method carries out deep research on the relationship among the chest circumference size, the armhole depth and the armhole depth, and summarizes the size matching data table of the chest circumference, the armhole depth and the armhole depth of the wide and loose garment as follows:
the watch has the characteristics of convenience, quickness and accuracy.
The above description is only for the preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art should be considered to be within the technical scope of the present invention, and the technical solutions and the inventive concepts thereof according to the present invention should be equivalent or changed within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. A plate making method for flexible and loose clothing with sleeves is characterized by comprising the following specific steps:
s1, drawing the basic frames of the front and the rear garment pieces, and making a chest line, a waist line and a hip line:
s2, making a posterior scapula: drawing a horizontal line with the length of 21cm vertical to the back midline, intersecting with the back shoulder oblique line, determining a back shoulder width point, and drawing a front chest width line parallel to the front center line by 16 cm; drawing a back width line parallel to the back central line by 17.5cm, wherein the BP point is 9cm away from the front central line, taking the back small shoulder width length-1 as the front small shoulder width size, determining the front small shoulder width, halving the back small shoulder width, and making a midline of a back shoulder province at an halving point, wherein the midline is 9cm long, and the width is 2cm, and the length is 9 cm;
s3, side stitch making and breast splitting amount: intersecting with a vertical line which is used as a chest line at a BP point to a front small shoulder line, taking the line as a unilateral dart line of a chest dart, taking 17 degrees as the size of the chest dart, drawing an equal-length line of the other side chest dart, opening the chest dart, taking the intersection point of a front chest wide line and the chest line to one half of the intersection point of a back wide line and the chest line, downwards making a side suture line, and measuring 3.5cm to the left from the intersection point of an upper flat line and a front middle line to obtain the amount of chest splitting;
s4, drawing basic sleeves: unfolding 1.3cm at the horizontal line from the BP point to the front central line, trimming the front central line, removing redundant lines, drawing an armhole arc line, dropping 2.4cm from the rear upper flat line to determine a rear neck pit deep line, dropping 7.5cm from the front central line to determine a front neck pit deep line, and drawing a front neck pit arc line and a rear neck pit arc line; measuring 11cm from the lower part of the rear central point, making a horizontal line to intersect with a rear armhole arc line, cutting the horizontal line, unfolding for 0.8cm, combining a rear shoulder province and a front chest province, opening front and rear armholes, taking one half of the front armhole opening province as the shearing and lifting amount of the corresponding position of a rear sheet, removing redundant lines, enabling the front and rear armhole deep lines to fall 7cm and parallel to the front and rear armhole lines, measuring 10cm upwards from the bottom ends of the front and rear armhole lines, making armhole alignment marks, aligning the positions by the front and rear armholes, drawing a base sleeve according to the size by drawing a downward vertical line to intersect with a hypocycloid;
s5, drawing armhole arc lines and sleeve ridge lines of the raglan sleeves: making alignment marks on the sleeve top lines according to the lengths of front and rear armholes, respectively taking 10cm from the bottom ends of the front and rear sleeve top lines, making alignment marks, using the front and rear sleeve top alignment mark points as reference points, coinciding the front and rear sleeve alignment mark points of the front and rear sheets, extending the rear shoulder line by 1cm, using the front and rear sleeve alignment mark points as central points, rotating the front and rear sheets toward the sleeve top peak, making the front shoulder point and the rear small shoulder line extension line point fall on the sleeve top arc line, making the distance between the two points about 0.8-1.2 cm, using the front sleeve alignment mark point as a circular point, drawing a circle with a radius of 4cm, making an auxiliary circle with a front chest tracking and a looseness, using the rear sleeve alignment mark point as a circle center, making an auxiliary circle with a back chest tracking and a looseness, using the rear small shoulder line extension line point as a circle center, rotating the rear middle sheet to the left, making the rear sleeve alignment mark point fall on the circumference line, taking the end point of the front small shoulder as the circle center, rotating the front middle piece rightwards to enable the alignment mark point of the front sleeve cage to fall on a circumferential line, connecting the end point of the front small shoulder with the end point of the extension line of the rear small shoulder to form a straight line, taking a half point of the line segment, making a new sleeve central line downwards, measuring 9cm at the upper end of the sleeve central line, and drawing out the armhole arc line and the sleeve top line of the raglan sleeve through the point;
s6, dividing the sleeve fertilizer line into two equal parts: firstly aligning mark points, secondly performing process poking treatment on the middle end of a front small shoulder line, finally poking 0.7cm from the middle point of the sleeve to the sleeve top arc line aligning point, drawing an auxiliary line in the direction parallel to the middle line of the sleeve by 5cm and in the front sleeve direction, and dividing the sleeve fertilizer lines on the left side and the right side of the auxiliary line into two equal parts;
s7, forming a big sleeve and a small sleeve basic sleeve cap arc line of the two sleeves: horizontally overturning and copying front and rear sleeve cap arc lines, enabling bottom points of the front and rear sleeve cap arc lines to coincide with intersection points of a sleeve center line auxiliary line and a sleeve fertilizer line, enabling the copied front and rear sleeve cap arc lines and an original sleeve cap arc line to generate 2 intersection points, respectively leading a vertical line downwards from the 2 intersection points to be intersected with a cuff line, finally making two parallel lines at each 3cm left and right of a vertical line led by the intersection points of the two front sleeve cap arc lines, and deleting redundant arc lines to form a large sleeve sheet and a small sleeve sheet basic sleeve cap arc line of two sleeves;
s8, deleting the folded part of the front sleeves;
s9, drawing a splicing line: making two parallel lines on the cuff line at 1.2cm above and below the cuff line, and extending one parallel line above to the right by 5 cm; making circles of 1.5cm and 1.8cm at the intersection points of the two front sleeve splicing auxiliary lines and the sleeve elbow lines; making a circle with the length of 0.7cm and 5cm at the intersection point of the two front sleeve splicing auxiliary lines and the sleeve opening line; respectively drawing front sleeve patchcord lines of the big sleeve and front sleeve patchcord lines of the small sleeve; two intersection points are generated between the splicing line of the front sleeves and the cuff line of the large sleeves and the small sleeves, the midpoint of the two intersection points is taken as the center of a circle, a circle is made by taking 14.5cm as the radius, and the center of the circle and the parallel line below the cuffs are connected with the intersection point of the circumference; taking the intersection point of the back sleeve splicing auxiliary line and the sleeve fertilizer line as a central point and taking 5cm as a radius to make a circle; taking the intersection point of the back sleeve piece splicing auxiliary line and the sleeve elbow line as a central point, taking 3cm as a radius to make a circle, taking the intersection point of the sleeve opening line and the auxiliary line below the sleeve opening as a circle center, taking 1cm as a radius to make a circle, and connecting the back sleeve piece splicing auxiliary lines of the big sleeve piece and the small sleeve piece; the front end of the small sleeve arc line is reduced by 0.7cm, the small sleeve arc line is adjusted, and the back seam line of the large sleeve and the small sleeve is smoothly drawn.
2. The method for making flexible and loose-fitting body-sleeve garment according to claim 1, wherein said front and rear garment pieces have a base frame length of 90cm and a base frame width of 47cm in step S1;
wherein, the specific steps of making the chest line, the waist line and the hip line are as follows: the front upper flat line is lifted by 1cm on the basic frame; the front horizontal opening width is 6.8cm, the back horizontal opening collar width is 7.3cm, and the angle of the front shoulder is 15: 6. back shoulder line bevel angle 15: and 5, making oblique lines of the front and the back shoulders, and making a chest line, a waist line and a hip line respectively at a distance of 25cm, 40cm and 59cm from the upper front flat line.
3. The method for making flexible and loose-fitting clothing with sleeves as claimed in claim 2, wherein the specific steps for the location mark points in step S6 are as follows:
A. position mark points are marked on the front and rear small shoulder lines:
B. alignment mark points are arranged on the front and rear armhole arcs: shortening the upper end of the rear side seam by 1.2cm, shortening the upper end of the front side seam by 1.3cm, adjusting the armhole arc end point to the new upper end point of the side seam, connecting the front and rear armhole arc lines and the front and rear armhole arc lines to be smooth, taking 10cm from the upper ends of the front and rear armhole arc lines respectively, and marking opposite sites;
C. aligning the mark points on the top of the sleeve: marking the contraposition points by respectively taking 9.4cm from the left and the right of the sleeve vertex.
4. The method for making flexible loose-fitting clothes with sleeves as claimed in claim 3, wherein the steps of making the alignment marks on the front and back shouldered lines are as follows:
SS1, which is parallel to the front small shoulder line by 0.15cm, drawing two auxiliary lines above and below the front small shoulder line, dividing the front small shoulder line and the two parallel auxiliary lines into three equal parts, and connecting a front shoulder neck point, a first equal division point of the auxiliary line below the front small shoulder line, a second equal division point of the auxiliary line above the front small shoulder line and a middle point of a connecting line of the front small shoulder end point and the rear small shoulder line extension line end point into smooth arc lines;
SS2, connecting the middle point of the back small shoulder line and the middle point of the connecting line of the front small shoulder end point and the extension line end point of the back small shoulder line into a smooth arc line;
SS3, taking 2cm from the shoulder neck point to the shoulder point, and respectively making alignment mark points on the front and back small shoulder lines.
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| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
| JP2012144823A (en) * | 2011-01-13 | 2012-08-02 | Yasuko Miyazato | Garment with sleeve, and paper pattern for the same |
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