CN1189158C - Natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face - Google Patents

Natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1189158C
CN1189158C CNB001125303A CN00112530A CN1189158C CN 1189158 C CN1189158 C CN 1189158C CN B001125303 A CNB001125303 A CN B001125303A CN 00112530 A CN00112530 A CN 00112530A CN 1189158 C CN1189158 C CN 1189158C
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skin
cosmetics
cell
additive
aging
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CN1342450A (en
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林莉
程艳
杨亚军
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Jianong Biochemical Technology (China) Co., Ltd.
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Jianong Bio-Chemical Co Ltd Nanjing
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Abstract

The present invention relates to a natural activated cosmetic additive for removing wrinkles, resisting senescence and beautifying faces. The cosmetic additive is formed by compounding tea polyphenol, astragalus extraction liquid, bupleurum extraction liquid, ginseng activated cells, hyaluronic acid, vitamin A and pectic acid by the weight ratio of (5 to 10): (5 to 10): (5 to 10): (10 to 20): (5 to 10): (5 to 10): (5 to 10). The additive of the present invention can be prepared into cream, oil, washing liquor, milky washing liquor, paste, etc. The additive has the notable efficacy of removing wrinkles, resisting senescence and beautifying faces and has the advantages of stable properties, reasonable medicine selection and convenient use. The present invention can be applied to cosmetics for removing wrinkles, resisting senescence and beautifying faces.

Description

Natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face
The present invention relates to a kind of composite natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face, it can remove collagen content in excessive harmful free radicals in the skin, antioxidation, the increase skin, particularly is suitable for the outer cosmetics additive with removing wrinkle and resisting aging cosmetic result that is coated with.
Along with the growth at people's age, the minimizing of smegma, the infringement of long-term in addition ultraviolet damage and free radical, people's skin is day by day old and feeble.Aging and defying age have become the focus that people's utmost point is paid close attention to.Therefore, the research and development anti-aging cosmetics is one of important content of defying age or slow down aging.
The outward manifestation of skin aging has: wrinkle forms, and increases gradually, deepens; Cutis laxa, attenuation; Elasticity and consolidation descend; Hyperpigmentation; Xerosis cutis tarnishes.
Occur in the process of wrinkle at skin aging, following variation takes place in the internal structure of human body skin:
1 epidermis
Epidermis is the outmost layer tissue of skin, forms basal layer, spinous layer, granular layer, clear layer and horny layer from inside to outside respectively by epithelial cells.These epithelial cellses progressively rise and keratinization from basal layer, come off after finally becoming abiotic horn cell.Contain nature moisturizing factor in the epidermis, keep the moisture of skin with horny layer, as aminoacid, carbamide, hyaluronic acid.
With advancing age, the cell of skin particles layer and spinous layer diminishes and the epithelial cells growth rate descends, and makes this two-layer attenuation, causes cutis laxa, and wrinkle occurs.Wherein, the decline of nature moisturizing factor content also can cause skin hydration decline, xerosis cutis, thus tarnish.
Since melanocyte with age growth increase, the formation of lipid peroxide, pigmentation or senile plaque have appearred in the sun exposure position (as face) in the epidermis.
2 corium
Skin corium is rich in connective tissue, and main component is macromolecular fibrous protein.Wherein, elastin laminin accounts for the 1%-3% of skin protein dry weight, and collagen protein accounts for 70% (mainly being I type and III collagen type), and all the other are mucin and structural glycoprotein.
With age growth, III collagen type (fiber is thinner) increases thinning of skin when causing aging with the proteic ratio of type i collagen; Secondly, form by the collagen key mutually between the collagen protein crosslinked, thereby increase its resistivity to collagenase, make its structure become firm, follow the string, form wrinkle simultaneously.Crosslinked between the collagen protein has two kinds of forms: a kind ofly be crosslinked (being mainly the crosslinked of His and Ala) between the Aa; Another kind of is the crosslinked of nonenzymatic glycosylation (claiming the Maillard reaction again) effect formation.
Elastin laminin is to keep the topmost fibrous protein of skin elasticity, can be degraded by elastoser.Under the normal condition, elastin laminin can be suppressed by large numbers of elastase inhibitor.With advancing age, the inhibition level descends gradually, causes elastin laminin to decompose and strengthens, and skin elasticity descends, and produces wrinkle.
Be rich in the saccharide macromole in the skin corium, as mucin or glycosaminoglycan, they are bases of skin hydration effect.Hyaluronic acid is a kind of typical glucosan.When skin aging, owing to be subjected to the degraded of hyaluronidase, hyaluronic acid contents descends, and causes the skin dehydration, becomes dry.
3 subcutaneous tissue, sweat gland and sebaceous gland
During skin aging, the subcutaneus adipose tissue of skin reduces, even disappears, and cutis laxa causes the appearance of wrinkle; The quantity of sweat gland reduces, and functional defect causes sweat secretion to descend; Sebaceous gland atrophy, secretion also reduces, and composition changes, and causes xerosis cutis, squama occurs and tarnish.
In recent years, the sales volume of domestic anti-aging cosmetics is on a declining curve, and main cause is a DeGrain, the standard of the lack of material standard of application.The skin care item majority of commercially available majority " defying age " is general nutrition cream frost and emulsion, mainly is to preserve moisture or skin care, and function singleness can not really play the wrinkle resistant effect of defying age.The defying age skin care item can not only be preserved moisture, skin care, and the anti-aging effects that it is real should be sought countermeasure targetedly according to some features and the mechanism of above skin aging.
Purpose of the present invention is exactly in order to overcome the prior art deficiency, invent a kind of by the composite stable in properties of natural plant extraction thing, select reasonable, the remarkably productive natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face of medicine.
The principle that the present invention preserves youthful looks in conjunction with above-mentioned skin removing wrinkle and resisting aging, to obtain the composition and the weight ratio of natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face as follows for check screening by experiment:
Tea polyphenols: 5-10 part;
Radix Astragali alcohol extraction liquid: 5-10 part;
Radix Bupleuri alcohol extraction liquid: 5-10 part;
AGCA: 10-20 part;
Hyaluronic acid: 5-10 part;
Vitamin A: 5-10 part;
Fruit acid: 5-10 part.
Tea polyphenols is the industry standard QB2154-95 of a People's Republic of China (PRC) food additive tea polyphenols, and service index is that TP-1 natural origin tea polyphenols is faint yellow powder.Astragalis extraction liquid, Radix Bupleuri extract are ethanol extraction extractum, get the crude drug Radix Astragali, each 200 gram of Radix Bupleuri, add 70% alcoholic solution, decompression constant temperature 50 degree extract 3 times, and each alcoholic solution use amount is 500 milliliters, with three extracting solution, merge, decompression constant temperature 50 degree concentrate, and get 200 gram extractum, and promptly Astragalis extraction liquid, Radix Bupleuri extract are the extractum that 1 gram liquid is equivalent to 1 gram crude drug.AGCA is according to patented technology: the simple and easy culture method CN87102382 of ginseng-cell, by various nutrition manually are provided, under aseptic condition, isolating meristematic cell from the Radix Ginseng plant carries out the faint yellow homogenate that unlimited breeding and hypertrophy institute separation and Extraction obtains.All the other hyaluronic acids, vitamin A, fruit acid are the cosmetic active raw material of natural origin.
The pharmacological effect of each component of the present invention is as follows:
1 Radix Ginseng
Radix Ginseng is the araliaceae ginseng plant, is rare Chinese medicine, at the most ancient medical book.Radix Ginseng contains the multiple effective ingredient useful to human body such as Saponin, several amino acids, polysaccharide, vitamin, volatile oil, choline, daucosterol, stigmasterol, flavonoid, trace element and prostisol.
By rabbit being smeared experiment continuously with AGCA; and with matched group indexs such as smear zone cuticular layer, epidermal layer cells, skin corium collagen fiber, cell infiltration and vasoganglion relatively; illustrate that AGCA liquid has delaying aging, anti-coarse and protective effect such as chap to skin, for exploitation AGCA serial cosmetics provides experimental basis.The ginsenoside is the main component of AGCA, amounts to 15 kinds.The ginsenoside easily sees through skin surface and is that corium absorbs, and can expand peripheral vessel, blood flow increasing, and the propagation of promotion fiber-like cell makes skin tissue regeneration and strengthens its immunization.The ginsenoside also is non-oxidizability by the activity of the oxidoreductase in the human activin, the lipid peroxidation of erythrocyte membrane that is caused by hydroxy radical and hydrogen peroxide there is tangible antagonism, can prevents the aging of skin thereby can alleviate the biomembranous damage of radical pair.The ginsenoside can improve SOD content and catalase activity in the erythrocyte significantly, and oxygen-derived free radicals is had tangible scavenging action, has shown stronger antioxidation, and has activity of fighting against senium.With the propagation of mtt assay mensuration human embryonic lung fibroblast, the result shows that the ginsenoside can promote the propagation of senile cell.Numerous pharmacological evaluation show, the function that the AGCA extract can immunocyte.
This patent is employed to be active ginseng cell, and it is the biotechnology product of cultivating under aseptic condition, does not contain artificial hormone class chemical analysis, and non-stimulated and side effect is safe and reliable to skin.Compare with ginsenoside or other Radix Ginseng extract, active substance is abundanter, and effect is more obvious.
2 Astragalis extraction liquids
The Radix Astragali is a leguminous plant, is rare Chinese medicine, has classified as top grade in the most ancient medical book Shennong's Herbal.The Radix Astragali contains various trace elements, choline, betanin, folic acid etc. such as astragaloside class, Radix Astragali total flavones, astragalus polysaccharides, several aminoacid, phlegmatic temperament, selenium.
Modern pharmacology studies show that, the Radix Astragali has the promotion cell proliferation, promotes DNA to synthesize, prevent functions such as lipid peroxidation, removing free radical, the collagen content that improves body skin, promotion immunity that the Radix Astragali has the effect of tangible defying age or slow down aging as can be seen.
Radix Astragali extractive solution acts on skin, makes collagen content increase in the skin, and just hydroxyproline increases, and can produce the function of the wrinkle resistant increase skin elasticity of defying age [17]Radix Astragali total flavones is one of main active ingredient of Radix Astragali removing free radical, and it is to O - 2With OH stronger scavenging action is arranged all, can resist the active reduction of hydroxy radical damage back V79 cell SOD.People's prepuce tissues piece with In vitro culture is a material, has studied the pharmacological action of the Radix Astragali to the epidermis cell aging course.The splitting ability of Skin Cell has embodied the strong and weak degree of skin vitality, and skin cell metabolism speed slows down, and regenerative cell is few and keratinocyte increases, and skin will follow the string and gloss.The result shows that the Radix Astragali has the effect that promotes the epidermis cell merisis, but and the significant prolongation epidermis cell life-span.In addition, because the free radical that radiation produces can cause the reduction of enzymatic activity on the biomembrane, variations such as memebrane protein sulfydryl and lipoid peroxidating, these variations cause the forfeiture of film function, finally cause cell death.Experimental result shows: Radix Astragali extract can suppress the caused malonaldehyde of radiation (MDA) recruitment significantly, and prompting has the effect of anti peroxidation of lipid.The result has confirmed that the Radix Astragali has tangible anti-aging effects to human epidermal cell.The Radix Astragali shows that to external human embryonic lung diploid fibroblast (HELDF) Study of Anti-senility the Radix Astragali can improve the synthesis capability of cell DNA, thereby promotes the propagation of cell.Radix Astragali administration group cell was then survived to 77 generations, and cellular control unit was only survived to 52 generations, illustrated HELDF is had significant senile-resistant efficacy.The Radix Astragali can promote cell SOD synthetic to a certain extent, or the possible composition of the Radix Astragali is the activator of SOD, the activity of energy maintenance or enhancement of SOD, the ability that makes the cell antioxidation eliminate free radical maintain lasting relatively and higher level, thereby have delayed the decline of cell.Radix Astragali extract can be adjusted the content of cAMP in the cell, improves the repair function of DNA, strengthens the ability of cell resistance poor environment.
Among the present invention, the Radix Astragali and active ginseng cell compatibility are compared with independent use, and its senile-resistant efficacy is more obvious.
3 tea polyphenols
In recent years, it is found that contain 30 in the Folium Camelliae sinensis surplus kind of tea polyphenols.Tea polyphenols belongs to the Polyphenols thing, and its Main Ingredients and Appearance has catechin (flavonol), flavonoid glycoside, anthocyanidin and phenolic acid etc., wherein based on catechin.Experimentation shows; tea polyphenols contains a lot of phenol hydroxyls; easily be oxidized to quinones substance; the azygous single electron of X electronic energy and oxygen atom interacts on this compounds; conjugation takes place, and the result makes azygous single electron close to phenyl ring, rather than is fixed on the phenyl ring; make the energy decreases of free radical like this, therefore effectively protect the peroxidating of the unsaturated fatty acid in the cell membrane.
The life span of drosophila melanogaster experiment shows that tea polyphenols can obviously prolong fruit bat average life, improves the ability of circling in the air of fruit bat, has tangible function in delaying senility.Tea polyphenols can suppress hyaluronidase effectively, prevents its degraded hyaluronic acid, and can alleviate the inflammation that hyaluronidase causes, also can alleviate allergy.Tea polyphenols can improve aged mouse SOD and GSH-Px activity, strengthens the function of body antioxidase system, helps to eliminate the damage of free radical and active oxygen pair cell and cell membrane.What tea polyphenols was removed superoxide anion and hydroxy radical obviously is better than the powerful antioxidant V that generally acknowledges EAnd V CMensuration shows that the usefulness that the equivalent tea polyphenols is removed superoxide anion is V C3-10 doubly; It is external to have very strong removing free radical and antioxidative effect, compares V EStrong tens times; The usefulness that the 1mg tea polyphenols is removed superoxide anion is equivalent to 9 μ g copper-zinc superoxide dismutases approximately.
4 Radix Bupleuri extracts
Radix Bupleuri belongs to samphire, is a kind of Chinese medicine commonly used, and the beginning is stated from the Shennong's Herbal, classifies as top grade.Contain saikoside, volatile oil, bupleurumol, oleic acid, linolenic acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid, carnaubic acid and Radix Bupleuri polysaccharide etc. in the Radix Bupleuri.
Have many pharmacological actions,, analgesia and calm analgesic as it.Radix Bupleuri also has tangible antiinflammatory action, can suppress connective tissue proliferation and inflammation is oozed out.Radix Bupleuri also has lipoid peroxidization resistant.Comprehensive its antiinflammatory, anti peroxidation of lipid and enhance immunity effect, Radix Bupleuri can be used for anti-aging cosmetics.The Radix Bupleuri extract is shaped on potentiation to the immune body of human body cell, improves the skin metabolism function, increases the penetrating amount of blood capillary, makes cortical cell propagation.Can accelerating wound healing, it is coarse to suppress skin surface, suppresses the dermatosis and old and feeble cutis laxa, wrinkle and the tarnish that causes that are caused by illumination.Radix Bupleuri extract can also form promoter as extracellular matrix, uses in cosmetics, can promote the formation of acid mucopolysaccharide, fibrin etc.
5 vitamin A (V A)
V ABeing fat-soluble vitamin, is the extinction group in the visual pigment.Its chemical nature is a unsaturated monohydric alcohol that contains α-Radix Angelicae Dahuricae ketone ring, and five conjugated double bonds are arranged.The natural form of vitamin A (retinol) is differentiated in 1919 by Steenback at first.Afterwards, Stuttgen and Bollag proposed the normal function role of this material for skin.Because its character is unstable and have a potential zest, so chemists are basic structure with the retinol, thousands of kinds of derivants have been developed, promptly so-called retinoid material, finishing screen has been selected several safely and effectively materials, as all-trans retinoic acid, 13-cis-retinoic acid etc.
V AParticipate in the synthetic of electron transfer reaction, glycoprotein, and glycoprotein is skin histology and the sticking indispensable important substance of growth of touching, so V AThe normal configuration of keeping epithelial tissue there is important role.Its easy oxidation, stability depends on the existence whether antioxidant is arranged.
Pharmacological action is present, V AThe class material plays a part many keys in cell and function of organization, and many dermal pathology states are had many-sided research.V AThe class material has following bio-diversity: keeping of the chemical prevention of the effect of melanic growth, antagonism 17-hydroxy-11-dehydrocorticosterone, cancer, epithelium and differentiation etc. are cleared up, suppressed to generation, immunomodulating, the sebum synthetic, the promotion blood vessel of the generation of organ, antiinflammatory, dermal matrix.Therefore, the retinoid material has multiple medicinal effects, can prevent and treat that illumination ageing, wrinkle intensification, wound healing, pigmentation, acne, rosacea, ichthyosis hypertrophy dermatitis, scar tissue adherent, viral infection, eyes are dry and astringent, mucosa keratinization, chronic keratitis, alopecia, tumor etc.Utilize the human embryonic lung diploid fibroblast of In vitro culture, as can be seen, vitamin A etc. have anti-aging effects to the human embryonic lung diploid fibroblast of In vitro culture.
6 fruit acid
Fruit acid is the organic acid general designation that is extracted by fruit.These organic acid common ground are that there are hydroxyl (AHA) or ketone group (AKA) in the α position in molecular structure, are commonly referred to as 'alpha '-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or keto acid (AKAs).These organic acid are present in the materials such as fruit, sucrose and Yoghurt at nature.
The AHAs majority that uses in skin care item is the chemical compound and the compound thereof of chemosynthesis; The AHAs of natural extract is the mixture of 'alpha '-hydroxy acids, and price is expensive.Both functions are compared, and some natural extract is lower to skin irritation.
AHAs has the effect of softening horny layer of epidermis, and the adhesion strength between corneocyte is reduced, thereby the aged dead cell of epidermis is come off, the horny layer of epidermis attenuation, it can promote epidermal growth again simultaneously, accelerates the renewal of epidermis cell.Can show as the elimination wrinkle of skin, disappear skin pigment and senile plaque make skin seem newly tender, bright and clean, softness and high resilience.
From clinical and histological angle, the dyskeratosis effect shows as epidermis thickening and densification.The dyskeratosis effect increases mainly due to the horn cell adhesion strength, and decortication speed is descended.The various dermatosiss that the dyskeratosis effect can cause comprise acne and general xerosis cutis.This shows, the adhesion strength of pilot angle cell plastid, the thickness of minimizing dyskeratosis epidermis may be above-mentioned dermatosis of treatment and the effective ways that prevent skin aging.Van Scott proposes, and AHAs has very big influence to the adhesion strength of skin keratin cell.AHAs is different, also different with the high concentration lithium salts with other denaturant such as carbamide with general keratodermatitis remover such as strong acid, highly basic and mercaptan.AHAs can not cause the horn cell depolymerization of horny layer upper strata mature cell.AHAs plays when newborn horny layer forms, and reduces the sticking action of epidermal keratinocyte.Make it to be easier to fall in flakes, change the epidermis outward appearance, strengthened cuticular pliability.AHAs may encourage the biosynthesis of the cohesion glycosamine of skin and other intercellular matrix, makes Intradermal form perfectly capillary network, has strengthened the water holding capacity of skin, and it is more plentiful that skin seems, tiny wrinkle also can be removed.
7 hyaluronic acids
Hyaluronic acid (Hyaluronic Acid, HA) a kind of high polymer of being formed by the disaccharidase recurring unit of (1 → 3)-2-acetylaminohydroxyphenylarsonic acid 2-deoxidation-β-D-glucose-(1 → 4)-O-β-D-glucuronic acid.It has the total character of many mucopolysaccharides, white solid, and odorless, tasteless has and draws moistly, soluble in water, is insoluble to organic solvent, and the specific rotatory power of its aqueous solution be-70--80 °, molecular weight is 20-720 ten thousand, branch filial generation negative electricity.Make it have special nature Deng the carboxyl on the glucuronic acid residue of space length.Owing to have the repulsive interaction of negative charge on long collapsible chain and the carboxyl, the space of HA molecule is stretched big especially, even under low concentration, intermolecular also have intensive interaction, so have higher intrinsic viscosity.HA loosens, expansible molecular shape makes it occupy bigger space in solution, can be in conjunction with a large amount of water.Its 26S Proteasome Structure and Function relation is seen attached list.
In epidermis, corium and the subcutaneous tissue of skin ecto-entad, horny layer is the outermost portion of epidermis, and it is the final stage of angle albuminous cell differentiation, is the active protective layer of a kind of inanimate object.Normal horny layer water content is 10-20%, and when extraneous relative humidity was lower than 60%, its water content can drop to below 10%, so cause skin dry and break.Any natural oils of external this moment all can not obviously change its dry-out phenomenon to stop water evaporates.The defensive enginery of keeping and stimulating to external world of the moisture of keratodermatitis and skin health is closely related, and to preventing of skin aging, the sense of touch of skin, the outward appearance of skin all have great function.Corium is by various fibrins and substrate composed; And the chemical constituent of substrate is mainly mucopolysaccharide, and wherein most important is the HA of not sulfur-bearing acidic group and the chondroitin sulfate of sulfur-bearing acidic group.Wild field once reported, the content of mucopolysaccharide is than high in the corium in the human epidermal, and the ratio that HA accounts for is also than corium height.
Hyaluronic acid has very graceful function to improving the skin physiology condition, as competent moisture is provided for horny layer, strengthens the barrier of skin; For dermal collagen fiber and elastic fiber synthetic provides superior external environment condition, strengthen the supply of multiple nutrients material, play the effect of skin-protecting face nursing.In addition, in vitro study or zooscopy find that HA has following senile-resistant efficacy:
The bonded hyaluronic acid of 1 cell surface can stop that some enzymes are discharged into the extracellular, reduce the generation of free radical, the bonded hyaluronic acid of cell surface can limit the enzyme of several generation free radicals and lipid peroxidation near cell membrane, can reduce the inflow of surface of cell membrane hydroxy radical.
2 low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acids (LMW-HA) have antiinflammatory, suppress the effect of pathological reaction in rodent.
The propagation that 3 HA can be cell provides suitable substrate, thereby for the propagation of cell provides suitable place with differentiation, the signal that the bonded HA of while cell surface can directly grow the external world is delivered in the cell, directly promote propagation, reconstruction and the reparation of tissue, promote the functional rehabilitation of extracellular matrix, skin elasticity, saturation are recovered.
4 its good medium space structures and keep the ability of water balance, environment and nutrient substance is supplied with important effect in improving skin histology.
With above-mentioned each one pack system cosmetics that are main activity of fighting against senium, one or certain several links performance anti-aging effects that can only take place from aging, effect is not comprehensive, acts on not obviously, and in order to propagate, its anti-aging effects is exaggerated.This patent combines the advantage of each component, remedies shortcoming separately mutually, from the aging of each angle, the comprehensive delaying skin of each link.The natural active matter action temperature and, lasting, fruit acid, hyaluronic acid and VA effect rapidly, are significantly played the effect of " specimen is held concurrently and made " to old and feeble skin, aging that more can delaying skin.This patent prescription has 6 large effects, is that real different aspect from anti aging effect works:
1 has propagation, the metabolic capacity that strengthens cell
1.1 from hereditism's angle, old and feeble essence is the decline of histiocyte function, so promote that cell activity is the basic countermeasure of delaying decrepitude of skin.Radix Ginseng, the Radix Astragali, fruit acid, Radix Bupleuri and V A, experimental results show that to have the synthesis capability that improves cell DNA significantly, thereby promote the propagation of cell; Improve the repair function of DNA, so strengthen the ability of cell resistance poor environment.
1.2 the angle of metabolic regulation, the receptor acting in hormone and cytoplasma membrane or the organelle be in target cell, the second message,second messenger by cAMP acts on the promotion metabolism.Under the normal condition, the mutual antagonism of cAMP and cGMP is in dynamic equilibrium.During human senility, cAMP/cGMP ratio descends, so increase the content of cAMP or reduction cGMP, Radix Ginseng, the Radix Astragali can be adjusted the content of cAMP in the cell, all can strengthen metabolic ability.
2 have the effect of the extracellular matrix of rebuilding skin
The extracellular matrix of skin histology mainly is connective tissues such as collagen protein, elastin laminin, mucopolysaccharide and structural glycoprotein, also comprises lipoids and some nature moisturizing factor, and they are keeping the barrier function and the hydration of skin.The reconstituted cell epimatrix has two kinds of methods: 1), by some the material of biological action is arranged, strengthen the ability (active mode) of skin various types of cells synthetic cell epimatrix, this class material mostly is the natural plants extract, form promoter as Radix Bupleuri extract as extracellular matrix, can promote the formation of acid mucopolysaccharide, fibrin etc.2) add the parts of fine extracellular matrix that loses, artificially, hyaluronic acid is taken on this.
3 have the radiating function of uvioresistant (UV)
In numerous factors of skin aging, the photosensitiveness that UV causes is aging to be topmost factor.Studies show that in a large number the skin aging that UV causes is relevant with some composition change of epidermal area, as V wherein AContent descends.Add V A, help to improve the radiating ability of skin uvioresistant (UV).In addition, Radix Bupleuri also has the radiating effect of uvioresistant (UV).
Antioxidation is imitated in semi-finals
The reactive oxygen free radical (ROS) that the skin antioxidation refers to ion and low-energy radiation are produced is to skin lipid, protein and biomembranous detrimental effect.Antioxidant mainly is divided into following a few class: 1) enzyme antioxidant, and as SOD etc., molecular weight is big, should not be by skin absorbs, and also degeneration makes the enzymatic activity forfeiture easily, and this patent does not adopt enzyme material; 2) natural antiaging agent, the tea polyphenols of this patent, Radix Ginseng, the Radix Astragali and Radix Bupleuri share, and have the ability of removing superoxide anion, hydroxy radical and anti peroxidation of lipid.
5 contain anti-degraded composition
Anti-degraded medicine refers to the medicine to its degradation of substrates such as anticollagenase, elastoser, hyaluronidase.Prove that now tea polyphenols can suppress hyaluronidase effectively, prevent the hyaluronic acid of its degraded skin itself.
6 antiallergic inflammation
Environmental pollution often shows as the skin allergy inflammatory reaction to the infringement of skin, and the catabiosis of skin is quickened in the inflammatory reaction meeting.Therefore, should set up the self-protection barrier of skin.Tea polyphenols can alleviate the inflammation that hyaluronidase causes, also can alleviate allergy.Experimentation shows that Radix Bupleuri has Radix Bupleuri tangible antiinflammatory action is also arranged, and can suppress connective tissue proliferation and inflammation is oozed out.
According to the present invention, do not do special qualification for the type of service of natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face.The form that they can be formulated into has cream, oil preparation, washing liquid, milky lotion, unguentum etc.
As used typical substrate among the present invention, the known substance of having mentioned has vegetable and animals oils, mineral oil, fatty oil, wax, higher alcohol, fatty acid, silicone oil, surfactant, phospholipid, alcohols, polyalcohols, water-soluble polymer, clay mineral and purifying waste water.Also have, PH regulator, antioxidant, chelating agen, antiseptic and antifungus agent, pigment thing, perfumed base etc. suitably add on demand.In addition, also can with other active component with removing wrinkle and resisting aging effect or skin cosmetic effect, blood circulation accelerant, disinfectant, antiinflammatory, cell activator, vitamins, amino acids, wetting agent, keratolytic agents etc. are used in combination.
The present invention will come for a more detailed description with embodiment and application experiment below.But will be understood that the present invention is not limited by these embodiment.
Embodiment 1: the emulsification system cleansing milk sees Table 1.
Embodiment 2: the cream frost sees Table 2.
Embodiment 3: moisturizer sees Table 3.
Embodiment 2 and 3 method for making are: component A in the component table is heated to 85 degrees centigrade, and fusing stirs, as the oil phase raw material; B component is put into container and is heated to 85 degrees centigrade, and stirring and dissolving is made the water raw material.The oil phase raw material adds in the water raw material and stirs, obtain the emulsifying homogenizing after, when being cooled to 35 degrees centigrade, add natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face and essence, antiseptic, stir, can preserve, pack, check, make the present invention's example product.
The cosmetics finished product that contains natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face, check through province health and epidemic prevention station, method therefor is according to GB7917-87, the GB7918-87 regulation, wherein lead, hydrargyrum, arsenic, bacterial content standard all up to specification does not contain excrement colibacillus group, bacillus pyocyaneus, staphylococcus aureus.Detect through province Bureau of Standards daily chemical product quality testing station again, its color and luster fragrance, mastic structure, heat-resisting, cold-resistant, pH value all meet GB11431-89 regulation needs.
This external province health and epidemic prevention station carries out acute oral toxicity test, and male and female mice LD50 is all greater than 10.00g/kg, according to the GB7917-87 grade scale, and the nontoxic level in true border.Carry out repeatedly irritant test of skin again, the result is zero according to GB7979-87 grade scale integration, and its skin irritation intensity belongs to " non-stimulated ".
The activity of product natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face cosmetics finished product of the present invention detects, and has further shown remarkable efficacy of the present invention.
1. detect cosmetics finished product function of anti-skin aging of the present invention by zoopery.
[principle]
The main component of skin histology is a collagen protein, and hydroxyproline accounts for 12%-14% in the collagen protein composition.In other tissue of human body, except that the tissue that mainly contains elastin laminin individually contains the hydroxyproline of 1%-3%, all the other contain hydroxyproline hardly.During skin aging, the interchain covalent cross-linking degree of collagen protein polypeptide increases in the tissue, causes the collagen protein dissolubility to reduce, and collagen content reduces, and the collagenic supersession rate reduces.Content in collagen tissue free peptide or the binding peptide reduces, and shows as that skin elasticity is poor, shrinkage, coarse, matt.This shows that what of hydroxyproline content are closely related with skin aging, content that can be by collagen protein in the quantitative assay skin or directly measure the index of hydroxyproline content as the skin aging degree.This is the foundation that this senile-resistant efficacy detects.
[animal and method]
60 of 14 monthly age of animal Kunming mouses, body weight 30 ± 5g, male and female half and half.
Method is divided into matched group and experimental group at random with animal, 30 every group.In cleaning, ventilation, drying, under 18~20 ℃ of conditions of room temperature, the same terms is raised down.Before the experiment mouse back is lost hair or feathers with the sodium sulfide epilation, expose about 1cm 2Skin.Earlier expose skin (should in time shave off the Mus hair that newly grows), then it is positioned over 15min in 28 ℃ of steam baths with warm water cleaning.The experimental mice back is quantitatively smeared and is contained example formulations 2 of the present invention, and control group mice is smeared and do not contained example formulations 2 substrate of the present invention.After the medication the, by listed natural law in the table to two groups each get 10 animals at random, the cervical vertebra dislocation is put to death, the thing site of action skin of getting it filled is immediately measured the content of its hydroxyproline, the results are shown in Table 4, table 5.
Experimental data shows: after using prescription of the present invention, hydroxyproline content and is with the prolongation of service time and increases progressively trend apparently higher than matched group in the experimental mice skin.Credit is analysed by statistics, and both have significant difference (P<0.01).
The number of 2 wrinkles of skin and wrinkle depth are measured
Skin aging, the degree of depth descends, and merges between each polygon, and number reduces relatively, and skin surface is long-pending to be increased.By measuring the number and the wrinkle depth of wrinkle of skin, can estimate the effect of anti-ageing wrinkle resistant class skin care item.In order further to estimate the practical effect of cosmetics patent, we have selected 30 ages 30~55 years old men and women volunteer, carry out the wrinkle removing treatment.This is a kind of noninvasive method, what adopt is that the siloxanes diaphragm is to the multiple film of skin, duplicate the fine structure of skin, the a branch of directional light that produces by instrument shines, diaphragm is collected the optical signal that passes with ccd video camera behind, handle in the back input computer through digitizer, utilize special-purpose software to handle and analyze, can analyze and quantize the numerical value of wrinkle of skin.
Gather the multiple membrane sample of skin at tail of the eye place, left side before the treatment beginning, then smear at face, sooner or later respectively once with natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face cosmetics finished product example of the present invention 2.Gather the multiple membrane sample of fixed position skin when treatment 15d, 30d, 60d, the measurement result of (u.s) wrinkle order and wrinkle depth (μ .m) sees Table 6 on this punishment treatment front and back per surface area, as can be seen, use cosmetics of the present invention after, wrinkle of skin obviously improves.Handle by statistics, can see intuitively that from Fig. 1, Fig. 2 the wrinkle number obviously reduces, wrinkle depth obviously diminishes.
Table 1 embodiment 1: emulsification system cleansing milk
Figure C0011253000121
Table 2 embodiment 2: cream frost
Figure C0011253000122
B component The hydroxypropyl guar locust beam gum 3 3 3 3 3
Glycerol 35 35 35 35 35
The aluminosilicate enzyme 10 10 10 10 10
Nipagin 5 5 5 5 5
Deionized water 300 300 300 300 300
Essence, antiseptic In right amount In right amount In right amount In right amount In right amount
Natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face Tea polyphenols 5 7 8 9 10
Astragalis extraction liquid 5 6 8 9 10
The Radix Bupleuri extract 6 7 8 9 10
Hyaluronic acid 5 7 8 9 10
Vitamin A 5 7 8 9 10
Fruit acid 5 7 8 9 10
AGCA 20 18 18 17 15
Table 3 embodiment 3: moisturizer
Figure C0011253000131
The comparison of hydroxyproline content in table 4 experimental group and the control animals skin
(g/100g)
10d 30d 45d
Matched group (n=10) Experimental group (n=10) Matched group (n=9 Experimental group (n=10) Matched group (n=8) Experimental group (n=8)
2.03 2.66 2.15 3.68 2.51 -
1.92 3.01 2.44 4.42 2.08 4.37
2.22 2.98 1.71 4.31 2.20 5.23
2.07 3.46 2.03 4.08 - 5.07
2.61 2.89 2.69 3.94 1.45 5.97
1.96 3.31 2.13 4.81 2.16 5.33
2.18 3.03 1.57 4.28 2.96 4.94
2.33 2.54 - 3.87 - 5.12
1.89 3.55 2.24 4.13 2.27 -
2.55 3.78 1.93 4.25 1.93 5.17
The comparison of hydroxyproline content in table 5 experimental group and the control animals skin
(meansigma methods) (g/100g)
Time (d) Matched group (n=10) Experimental group (n=10) P
10 30 45 2.17±0.25 2.10±0.34 2.19±0.43 3.12±0.396 4.17±0.35 5.15±0.44 <0.01 <0.01 <0.01
The variation (%) that table 6 is preceding with respect to treatment
The wrinkle number Wrinkle depth
15d 30d 60d -11 -26 -31 -26 -34 -54

Claims (2)

1, natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face is characterized in that being combined by its weight ratio by following component:
Tea polyphenols: 5-10 part;
Radix Astragali alcohol extraction liquid: 5-10 part;
Radix Bupleuri alcohol extraction liquid: 5-10 part;
AGCA: 10-20 part;
Hyaluronic acid: 5-10 part;
Vitamin A: 5-10 part;
Fruit acid: 5-10 part.
2, the application of natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face according to claim 1 in the preparation removing wrinkle and resisting aging is preserved youthful looks cosmetics.
CNB001125303A 2000-09-13 2000-09-13 Natural activated additive for cosmetics to remove wiinkles, delay sanility and beautify face Expired - Fee Related CN1189158C (en)

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