CN102293733B - Overall whitening and speckle removal skin care product - Google Patents
Overall whitening and speckle removal skin care product Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention relates to a whitening and speckle removal skin care product, which belongs to the field of commodity chemicals and consists of the following ingredients in percentage by weight: 10 to 20 percent of ethanol extract concentration liquid of raw material medicine of radix angelicae, pseudo-ginseng, erigeron breviscapus and Indian buead, 5 to 10 percent of white fungus broth, 2to 4 percent of seabuckthorn oil, 1 to 3 percent of tartaric acid, 4 to 8 percent of emulsifying agents, 18 to 22 percent of emollient, 15 to 20 percent of humectant, 0 to 5 percent of whitening agents, 0 to 0.25 percent of thickening agents, 0 to 0.5 percent of antiseptic agents, 0 to 0.15 percent of antiinflammatory agents and the balance rose water. The pH is 6.5 to 7. A layer of natural shield can be provided for the skin, simultaneously, the product can penetrate the bottom layer of the surface layer skin to provide nutrients for the dermis, the generation of wrinkles is delayed, the generation of basical layer skin pigment is inhabited, and the skin metabolism is promoted, so the slow skin metabolism period recovers the normal state, and the roughness and the dark yellow color are eliminated.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, particularly a kind of comprehensive whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product.
Background technology
Skin is made up of epidermis, corium and subcutaneous tissue, says from physiological structure, and epidermis is the outmost one deck of skin, and average thickness is 0.2 millimeter, but in fact also has one deck sebum film on the epidermis, to wherein protective effect of epidermis.Common whitening and speckle dispelling class skin care item mainly are to see through sebum film epidermal area is carried out maintenance.According to the different stages of development and the form characteristics of cell, ecto-entad can be divided into 5 layers: horny layer (is made up of several layers of keratinocyte, is contained keratin.It can resist friction, prevents that body fluid from blending in the chemical substance outward to invade.The keratin water absorbing force is stronger, and general water content is not less than 10%, keeping the soft and moist of skin, as is lower than this value, and skin is then dry, squama occurs or chaps); Clear layer (form, and contains eleidin by the flat transparent cell by 2～3 layers of nuclear have disappeared.Can prevent moisture, the seeing through of electrolyte and chemical substance is so claim the barrier band again); Granular layer (form by 2～4 layers of flat spindle cell, contain a large amount of basophilia keratohyalin granule); Prickle cell layer (be made up of 4～8 layers of polygonal spine cell, gradually flat from bottom to top, iuntercellular borrows desmosome interconnection, forms so-called intercellular bridge); Basal layer: (arrange the columnar cell that is palisade by one deck and form, 3%～5% in this confluent monolayer cells constantly divides, and upwards passing, keratinization, distortion gradually, forms other each layers of epidermis, and last keratinization comes off.To the time that comes off, being commonly considered as 28 after the basal cell division, being called the replacement time, is 14 from basal cell division back to the granular layer the superiors wherein, and it is 14 that the formation horny layer comes off to the end.Be mingled with a kind of melanocyte that derives from neural crest between basal cell, claim dentritic cell again, account for 4%～10% of whole basal cell, can produce melanin.
People's the colour of skin is to be decided with distributing by the melanin density in the skin, receives the influence of environment and physiologic factor simultaneously again.Such as ultraviolet, fatigue, pressure and inherited genetic factors.The mode of widely using in the existing skin care item of whitening, its mechanism of whitening mainly contains two kinds: a kind of is the melanin reduction mechanism, whiten like vitamin C, but whitening effect is not lasting, not obvious, and floats on the surface; Another kind of important mechanism is to reach whitening effect through restraint of tyrosinase is active, and this method has fundamentally solved the sedimentary problem of skin pigment, and blocking-up produces melanic generation chain.The active substance of whitening that is used for this type whitening and speckle dispelling product is mainly the tyrosinase inhibitor in various sources, and at present common have hydroquinone, kojic acid, Arbutin, hydroquinone, ellagic acid, materials such as Mei Labai.But these tyrosinase inhibitors all have active low, cytotoxicity high (hydroquinone), shortcoming such as penetration capacity is weak; May cause a series of healthy hidden danger, like irreversible skin lesion, chloasma, melanocyte degeneration, mutagenesis and cell function destruction etc., and some conventional better security of using chemical agent of whitening; Like ascorbic acid; Year such as kojic acid is active higher, and equistability is poor, makes the shelf life of products of preparation very short.People recognize that one after another a possible direction that overcomes these shortcomings is to use the active substance that from natural goods, extracts; The synergism mechanism of utilizing the various compositions in the mixture suppresses melanin with the mode of uniting and generates to reach the purpose of restraint of tyrosinase and peroxidase.Therefore, from natural product, extract chemical compound and be used for the research focus that the whitening and speckle dispelling product has become cosmetics.
Yet most of products are though be improved to the natural extract composition on composition; But function singleness, with advancing age, skin problem often is not only that the mottle calmness is so simple; The sebum film of following that also has damages xerosis cutis, problems such as microgroove or wrinkle; The product of function singleness has solved the problem of whitening and speckle dispelling, and ignores problems such as skin, drying, decortication, allergy even these problems are increased the weight of.Much human is for comprehensive care skin; Be coated with the product of difference in functionality in the time of need be on a same day different, like the whitening sun protection on daytime, facial film moisturizing in evening; Elite nutrition maintenance in night; But the quickening of Along with people's rhythm of life, a lot of women are busy with one's work, life stress is big, and not free at all and energy spends so oversensitive think of in skin protection every day.Good skin care item; Should take into account many aspects as the prescription that the old docter of TCM leaves; Primary and secondary is minored, and comprehensively regulating skin can both be got well each index of skin simultaneously; Therefore a function synthesized, comprehensive whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product safely and effectively will solve this skin protection difficult problem that present most of women faces.
Summary of the invention
The present invention, investigates through long-felt according to the demand in above-mentioned field in many ways; Gather lot of data and research and develop, developed a kind of comprehensive functional type whitening product of Pear Power effect of dispelling spots, can one deck natural cover for defense be provided for skin; The bottom of the deep enough top layer of ability skin is that skin corium provides nutrient simultaneously, delays the generation of wrinkle, suppresses the melanic generation of basal layer; And promoting skin metabolism to make the slow skin metabolism cycle recover normal, reject is rough dark yellow.
A kind of comprehensive whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product is made up of following components in weight percentage: the crude drug Radix Angelicae Dahuricae, Radix Notoginseng, Herba Erigerontis; The ethanol extraction concentrated solution 10～20% of Poria, White fungus broth 5～10%, Oleum Hippophae 2～4%; Fruit acid 1～3%, emulsifying agent 4～8%, emollient 18～22%; Wetting agent 15～20%, whitening agent 0～5%, thickening agent 0～0.25%; Antiseptic 0～0.5%, antiinflammatory 0～0.15%, surplus is a rose water, PH is 6.5～7;
The said Radix Angelicae Dahuricae, Radix Notoginseng, Herba Erigerontis, the preparation process of the ethanol extraction concentrated solution of Poria is: take by weighing 4 kinds of crude drug; 60% ethanol extraction that adds 6～10 times of amounts, soak at room temperature extracts twice, each 8～10 hours; Merge extractive liquid,, activated carbon decolorizing is concentrated into said crude drug etc. heavy; The ratio of said crude drug is the Radix Angelicae Dahuricae 5～8 weight portions, Radix Notoginseng 2～4 weight portions, Herba Erigerontis 5～8 weight portions, Poria 3～4 weight portions;
The preparation process of said White fungus broth is: the little fire of water that Tremella adds 20 times of weight boiled 3 hours, removed slag and was concentrated into 5 times of weight of Tremella raw material;
Said whitening agent refers to that mountain flower is smart, VC ethylether and/or arbutin.
Said emollient is grouped into by the one-tenth of following weight fraction ratio: 3～5 parts of squalanes, gather 3～5 parts of Semen sojae atricolor sucrose ester, 1～3 part of shea butter, 35262～4 parts in silicon wax, 3～6 parts in 2～3 parts of Jojoba oils and olive oil.
Said fruit acid refers to glycolic acid and/or lactic acid.
Said thickening agent refer to card ripple 980 or/HANSHENGJIAO.
Said wetting agent refers to hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol, glycerol and/or 1,3 butanediol.
Said wetting agent refers to 10 parts of hyaluronic acids, 2 parts of propylene glycol, 3 parts of glycerol, the mixture that 1,3 butanediol is 4 parts.
Said emulsifying agent refers to sodium lauryl sulphate, fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether, oliver1000 and/or oliverwax lc.
It is main with natural whiting speckle dispelling composition that the present invention provides a kind of; And emphasical skin-moisturizing, skin composition is for the decisive role of whitening and speckle dispelling; Two types of functional component coordinative roles promote skin metabolism speed, improve the repair ability and the protective capacities of skin; Make whitening and speckle dispelling reach the effect of health from inside to outside; Wherein combine a small amount of single whitening skin and preserving moisture composition to remedy the function that natural component lacks, make the whitening function of natural component be able to bring into play fully, thereby obtain comprehensive whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product.The plant extract composition Radix Angelicae Dahuricae wherein, Radix Notoginseng, Herba Erigerontis, Poria Pear Power, antiinflammatory, the effect of protectiving ultraviolet damage, promotion skin metabolism.White fungus broth be Tremella boil out be rich in the micromolecular collagen composition; Can carry collagen protein for the skin basal layer cell; Thereby the generation of prophylaxis of wrinkles; And repair the wrinkle that is forming, and improve the skin moisture holding capacity to guarantee the required moisture of skin homergy, promote the accretion rate of skin.Oleum Hippophae can provide abundant SOD composition; Removing causes the free radical of skin aging, and can improve skin and resist acarid, the infecting of cause of diseases such as microorganism; Contain multiple nutritional components such as a large amount of aminoacid, organic acid in addition in the Fructus Hippophae, can carry abundant natural nutrient for skin.In the whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product of the present invention, also added fruit acid, because the fruit acid pH value is lower; To the easy sensitization of skin, so among the present invention, the content of fruit acid is no more than 2%; The purpose of using it mainly is in order to promote skin metabolism, and the accelerated ageing cutin comes off naturally, and the hypertrophy of chafe bottom hyaluronic acid, glutinous polysaccharide, collagen protein and elastic fibers and arranging again; The water-holding capacity of skin is increased; Reduce microgroove and wrinkle, the new cell growth of chafe, thereby the metabolism of promotion skin.
In product of the present invention, wetting agent is the topmost a kind of auxiliary element except that whitening agent, is whitening and moisture-keeping functions of solvent reinforcement skin care item with the rose water.In addition, also comprise emulsifying agent commonly used in the skin care item generation in the component of whitening and speckle dispelling skin care item of the present invention, emollient, wetting agent, whitening agent, thickening agent.Those skilled in the art can be according to what of these auxiliary elements of the dosage form of required product adjustment.But all in the scope of the present invention's protection.
Through experiment proof on probation product of the present invention following advantage is arranged:
1, the activity of the comprehensive the blocking-up tryrosinase of natural component to be suppressing melanic generation and accumulation, and the melanin that produced of desalination, Whitening, spot process gentleness and effect is lasting.Form natural protecting film at the skin epidermis, resist the erosion to skin such as adverse circumstances such as environment, sunlight, radiation, high temperature, dust storm, pollution, more can go deep into nucleus high energy maintenance damaged cell, reformation skin stricture of vagina road;
Be that Skin Cell provides required nutrient of metabolism and moisture when 2, whitening; Multiple skin moisture holding capacity good preserve moisture composition and the antioxidant content of removing free radical of making particularly is provided; Prevent loss of moist in the skin; For cell continues to keep metabolism preferably stable moisture is provided, thereby has helped promoting epidermis cell to upgrade and reparation, delay skin aging.。
3, on function, taken into account and whiten, preserved moisture, repaired, purposes such as wrinkle removing on the composition of selecting for use, are the main function composition with the natural materials, be aided with present use the better chemical auxiliary element, result of use is significantly and safety.Complement each other between the various compositions, make nutrient and active component infiltration skin, activate the subcutaneous tissue physiological function; Strengthen blood microcirculation, promote skin nutrition, water absorbing capacity, lifting skin metabolism speed, balancing skin fat secretion; From the bottom skin whitening; The desalination pigment is moulded healthy skin on the whole, is that skin has the stronger defence capability to adverse circumstances such as conversion in season, drinking and eating irregularly, pollen hypersensitivity, contact infection and dryings.
The effect of the main component of whitening and speckle dispelling product of the present invention is distinguished as follows:
The Radix Angelicae Dahuricae, Umbelliferae, angelica, medicinal part is a root.Its beauty functions is main: expelling pathogenic wind from the body surface, dispersing cold for relieving pain, sensible, the detumescence and apocenosis of dehumidifying.Can improve microcirculation in human body, promote skin metabolism, eliminate pigment and in tissue, excessively pile up, remove the facial colour spot cicatrix, treatment skin bleb wound scabies etc.Shennong's Herbal is pointed out the Radix Angelicae Dahuricae: " longue skin.Moist color can be made face fat." no matter be " a thousand pieces of gold face fat side ", or the Empress Dowager's the empirical formula of preserving youthful looks " beautiful face is loose ", the Radix Angelicae Dahuricae all is a principal agent of making facial film.Be referred to as to go facial black speck.The modern medicine proof Radix Angelicae Dahuricae all has certain curative effect to acne, blackhead, acne, at whitening and speckle dispelling, and microcirculation improvement, all there is unique curative effect the delaying decrepitude of skin aspect.
Radix Notoginseng, for
AraliaceaeThe dry root of plant Radix Notoginseng Panax notoginseng (Burk.) F.H.Chen can be tightened and improved the arteria coronaria microcirculation, the effect of blood vessel dilating, anti-inflammatory effect, defying age, antioxidation; Main effective ingredient is a saponin, is main with Panaxadiol saponin, has antiphlogistic effect, in the Radix Notoginseng
Radix Notoginseng total arasaponins(PNS) raising is ultra in the tool cell
OxideThe active effect of dismutase (SOD) improves the cell antioxidation, removes the ability of free radical.
Herba Erigerontis is the dry herb of feverfew Erigeron breviscapus (Vant.) Hand.-Mazz. Erigeron breviscapus (Vant.) Hand-Mazz, has another name called Herba Erigerontis, Aster dubius (Thunb.) Onno, mainly is distributed in China southwest, and is more with Yunnan especially.Herba Erigerontis includes the native chemical composition that breviscapine etc. has higher medical value, has anticoagulation, and microcirculation improvement activates the heart, cerebral blood supply, and anti-leukoplakia cancer, control
AIDS, reduce the type ii diabetes early nephropathy, make eye bright, curative effects such as skin care, speckle dispelling.Modern times there are some researches prove that its alcohol extract is the active and melanic generation of restraint of tyrosinase (open in the patent application of application number 200710049762.0, its methanolic extract is restraint of tyrosinase effectively) effectively.
Poria for medical material Poria piece cuts the white portion behind the Poria, is generally the prepared slices of Chinese crude drugs, and " Bencao Pinhui Jingyao " said: " Poria is the end, close honey with, treat black bleb of acne vulgaris and puerpera such as Ovum passeris on the flush coat ".
Tremella: Mycophyta Tremellaceae Tremella plant, claim Tremella, Tremella, Tremella etc. again, Tremella is rich in the natural plant colloid, and molecule is minimum, is easy to absorb, and the effect of skin moistening dewrinkling spot-eliminating is arranged.
Oleum Hippophae: refer to hippophae rhamnoides seed oil, derive from Fructus Hippophae kind nuclear.Owing to contain multiple nutritional components such as a large amount of aminoacid, organic acid in the Fructus Hippophae; Can natural nutrient be provided for skin; Organic acid such as the malic acid that contains in the Fructus Hippophae, oxalic acid have the toxic effect of alleviating other chemical constituents; Phosphide compounds in the Fructus Hippophae is the higher composition of a kind of biological activity; Can promote cellular metabolism, the bioactive ingredients in the Fructus Hippophae contains the infringement of carcinogen such as Aspergillus flavus capable of blocking such as anthocyanidin, guassin, coumarin, 5-hydroxy tryptamine or pathogenic bacteria, and provides SOD to assist the skin antioxidation.
Fruit acid, (Alpha Hydroxy Acid, 'alpha '-hydroxy acids are called for short AHA or Beta Hydroxy acid, and beta-hydroxy acid is called for short BHA) is the various organic acid that from fruit, extract, and is the active ingredient that is present in multiple natural fruit or the yoghourt.Comprise Fructus Vitis viniferae acid, malic acid, citric acid and lactic acid etc., because of great majority by refining in the fruit, so claim fruit acid.As cosmetics, have following advantage: 1, the tiny molecule of fruit acid has superpower penetration, ability rapid osmotic skin; 2, to the effect of epidermis: the desmosome that reduces between horn cell connects, and promotes the metabolic speed of epithelial cell, has quickened the aging cutin cell detachment, impels skin to upgrade, and the epithelial cell that also makes is arranged more neat, so that horny layer becomes is smooth and careful.Simultaneously, fruit acid can also let pore keratinization thromboembolism on every side be easy to come off, and unimpeded follicular canal, prevents that effectively pore from blocking; 3, to the effect of corium: can stimulate the hypertrophy of hyaluronic acid, glutinous polysaccharide, collagen protein and elastic fibers and arrange again, the water content of skin is increased, the skin consolidation that becomes is flexible, and microgroove and wrinkle also can and then reduce.Though fruit acid has above-mentioned advantage, because fruit acid is stronger to skin irritation, improper use or excessive concentration; Easily skin is produced stimulation, allergy takes place, phenomenons such as decortication; In the product of the present invention, use amount control is no more than 3% in order to avoid skin is produced stimulation.In the preferred implementation of the present invention, preferably adopt glycolic acid and/or lactic acid.
Among the present invention, emollient and wetting agent are extremely important, and not only use amount is big, and on composition, those skilled in the art can select for use emollient commonly used to make up, but the present invention also provides following preferred version:
The preferred Jojoba oil (Jojoba Bean Oil) that adopts: take from the simmondsia fruit.The composition of Jojoba oil is similar with the composition of sperm whale wax oil in the ocean, is its only succedaneum.Good stable property is arranged, very easily merge, have non-oxidizability free from worldly cares with skin.In addition, Jojoba oil also contains and enriches vitamin, has the effect of nourishing softening skin.
Also adopt squalane (Squalane): be that the Squalene that from the shark liver of deep-sea, extracts makes a kind of hydro carbons oils and fats of excellent performance through hydrogenation, so have another name called the deep-sea shark liver oil.Squalane is that rare chemical stability is high, and the animal oil that usability is splendid has affinity preferably to skin, can form the natural barrier of one deck at skin surface; But the growth of mould fungus inhibition prevents allergy, and other active component permeate in skin in quickening to fill a prescription; Skin pore is opened, promote blood microcirculation, promote the metabolism of cell, help to repair damaged cell; Can suppress the peroxidating of skin lipid, can effectively infiltrate through skin, promote the propagation of skin base cell, to delay skin aging, improving and eliminating chloasma has tangible physiologic effect.
Also adopt shea butter (shea butter): also claim Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin, be derived from " cream wood ", " cream wood " is a kind of plant with magical maintenance effect.The most approaching with the greasy each item index of human body sebum secretion, contain abundant non-saponification composition, very easily be absorbed by the body.Can prevent season cracking, further recover and keep the natural elasticity of skin, have good deep layer and moisten effect; Promote cell regeneration and repair skin moisture film, the skin of can tenderly releiving; The pure natural plant oils and fats has extremely strong antioxidant effect, and is gentle non-stimulated; Can form protecting film on the skin top layer, have preserve moisture, sun-proof protection effect.
Also adopt and gather the Semen sojae atricolor sucrose ester: it can form the layer of even protecting film at skin surface, can improve sun-proof protection effect.
Also adopt olive oil.Olive oil is rich in Squalene and the essential fatty acid splendid with the skin affinity, absorbs rapidly, effectively keeps skin elasticity with moist; Contained abundant monounsaturated fatty acid and vitamin E, K, A, D etc. and phenols antioxidant in the olive oil; Can eliminate facial wrinkles; Preventing skin aging, effects such as skin or hair care and control hand and foot from chapping are arranged, is the cosmetics and skincare product that can " eat "; Smear skin with olive oil in addition and can prevent skin carcinoma, radiation protection by ultraviolet rays resistance.
The use amount of wetting agent of the present invention is bigger equally, has the good rose water of moistening effect except solvent adopts, and the present invention also comprises following composition:
Hyaluronic acid (Hyaluronic acid, HA): having another name called hyaluronic acid, is a kind of acid mucopolysaccharide, and often by animal extraction (as: cockscomb), it is the most common that the vegetalitas hyaluronic acid contains gelationus plant with the Aloe class in early days.It mainly is present in the collagen fiber albumen and the proteic space of elastic fiber of human body skin corium; Can let corium keep the sufficient state of moisture; It is the main NMF of human body skin; Be the best material of finding at present of occurring in nature moisture retention, be called as ideal nature moisturizing factor (Natural moisturizing factor, NMF).Can make moisture get into intercellular substance, and form protein gel, cell is sticked together with protein bound; Maintenance cell moisture is played in the cellular metabolism effect of bringing into normal play, and the protection cell does not receive the infringement of pathogen; Accelerate to recover skin histology; Improve the wound healing regeneration capacity, reduce cicatrix, effects such as enhancing immunity; The effect that has pore refining simultaneously; Be again the good transdermal absorption enhancer when preserving moisture, be used, can play the better effect that promotes alimentation with other nutritional labelings; Can improve the skin growth condition,, improve the skin-nourishing metabolism, make that skin is tender, smooth, wrinkle removing, increase elasticity, prevent aging for dermal collagen albumen and elastic fiber synthetic provides superior external environment condition; Can stop the generation of some enzymes in the cell, reduce the formation of free radical,, directly promote the cell growth, break up, rebuild and repair etc. preventing that free radical from destroying cellularity, producing lipid peroxidation and cause senility of humanbody.
All the other compositions:
Antiinflammatory glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium (Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate): release with antiinflammatory, antioxygen, antibacterial, treatment wound, antiallergic, speckle dispelling, prevention histamine; Effectively remove superoxide ion and hydroxyl radical free radical, significantly suppress the effect of the similar adrenal gland's sebum hormone of effect of liposome peroxidation thing, but life-time service also has no side effect.
Thickening agent HANSHENGJIAO (Xanthan Gum): claim HUANGJIAO, xanthan gum again; Be a kind of natural polysaccharide and important biopolymer; By the cabbage black rot xanthomonas campestris is primary raw material with the carbohydrate; Producing through the aerobic fermentation biotechnology, is the higher natural carbohydrate of a kind of relative molecular weight.Xanthan gum can be dissolved in cold water and the hot water, has high viscosity, and high acid and alkali resistance, salt characteristic, high heat-resistant stability, suspension, thixotropy etc. often are used as thickening agent, emulsifying agent, suspending agent, stabilizing agent.
Thickening agent card ripple 980: the chemical name acrylic resin, having another name called carbomer (CARBOMER) is a kind of crosslinked acrylate copolymer of polyalkenyl ether that has.Have stronger hygroscopicity and certain acidity (because of containing carboxylic group), available alkaline matter neutralization forms high clear gel.After carbomer is neutralized and makes carboxylic ionsization,, be great swelling state because the repulsive interaction of negative charge stretches the strand disperse, and tool viscosity.Therefore carbomer is under very low consumption, temperature influence and produce thickening power efficiently not just, and can make some insoluble additives (granule, oil droplet etc.) reach permanent suspension.Can be used as good suspension agent, stabilizing agent, emulsifying agent, also is the most effective water-soluble thickener.
Whitening agent agent mountain flower smart (Gigawhite): being derived from Alps, is a kind of plant complex, has adopted Radix Malvae sylvestris, Herba Menthae, Primula vulgaris, duck's-foot, Herba veronicae, Herba Melissae officinalis, common milfoil, 7 kinds of herbal essences that the natural acrophyta extraction of preciousness forms.Be a kind of safe natural plants whitening agent, be rich in vegetable oil; Various active compositions such as tannin, flavonoid, polyphenols, organic iodine, vitamin can continue the performance antioxidation, prevent colour of skin flavescence; Change in the process of ripe melanocyte at melanosome; The activity of in advance suppress, tryrosinase being blocked in the back is whitened the melanin reduction, thoroughly removes facial various speckle; Can intercept ultraviolet irradiation, go deep into skin whitening, improve skin matter; Can assist the permeability of skin, reach shining white effect; Also have and preserve moisture and defying age, decompose calm melanin, remove the free radical and the blackening factor, natural, safe, non-stimulated.
Whitening agent arbutin (Arbutin): have another name called Arbutin, Arbutin, ericalin, arbutin or arbutin; Come from the natural active matter of green plants; Main extraction is from the leaf of Folium Vaccinii vitis-idaeae; Also can find the existence of Arbutin in some fruit and other plant, for example European pear, little Pyrusussuriensis and Herba Saxifragae.Have the effect that makes skin bright, can infiltrate skin rapidly and do not influence skin cell, combine with the Tyrosine that causes melanin to produce; The activity of restraint of tyrosinase; Block melanic formation, quicken melanic decomposition and drainage, thereby reduce the skin pigment deposition; Dispelling stain and freckle, and melanocyte do not produced side effect such as toxic, zest, sensitization.Also have the effect of antibacterial, antiinflammatory simultaneously, the protection skin avoids the infringement of free radical, and hydrophilic is good.
Whitening agent VC ethylether (
Ethyl Asorbic Acid): be a kind of hydrophilic both sexes VC of oleophylic derivant.It can very be convenient to use in prescription; Be more prone to penetrate horny layer and get into skin corium, get into skin and decomposed the synthetic reparation Skin Cell activity of participating in collagen protein directly, collagen protein is increased by enzyme; Thereby make the skin full high resilience that becomes, make skin moist; Active through restraint of tyrosinase, block melanic formation, the vat black pigment is colourless, reaches the effect of skin whitening; Prevent sun-induced scytitis, improve skin colour.Common relatively VC is more easily by skin absorbs, and bioavailability is high.In addition, the more common VC of VC ethylether also demonstrates high stability, fast light, heat-resisting, acidproof, alkaline-resisting, salt tolerant and air oxidation.
Among the present invention, emulsifying agent can be selected from sodium lauryl sulphate, fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether, and cetearyl alcohol Fructus Canarii albi grease (Olivem 1000) and/or spermol cetylate (Oliwax LC), preferred Olivem 1000 of the present invention and/or Oliwax LC:
Olivem 1000 chemical names are cetearyl alcohol Fructus Canarii albi grease; Sorbitol Fructus Canarii albi grease (Cetearyl Olivate/SorbitanOlivate); 100% natural origin does not contain EO and obtains the efficient liquid crystal type self-emulsifier of Ecocert authentication, fabulous skin affinity and the slim and graceful skin sense of water profit; The emulsifying polarity that is particularly good at oils and fats, unique layered liquid crystal structure especially has protection and slow releasing function to active component, significantly improves the utilization rate of active matter; Also there is fabulous dispersion to contain ability to powder body, effectively prevents the gathering of powder.Close and do long-acting moisturiser, all kinds of effect type skin care item, foundation cream sunscreen product.
Oliwax LC: chemical name is the spermol cetylate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitol Fructus Canarii albi grease (Cetyl Palmitate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Olivate), the short long agent of plant type liquid crystal structure, reorganization microstructure; Significantly improve emulsification system stability, long lasting moistening effect; Slowly release of active ingredients can improve and stable spf value.
The rare water of Min: pure natural substance.Can replenishing water and preserving moisture, include NMF, can fully be absorbed by skin, and preserve moisture content, be fit to any skin matter; Can fix by skin smoothing, on the basis of clean skin, purify skin once more, make it to absorb more easily and support part, spray a bit can effectively keep beautiful dressing before last foundation cream simultaneously; Can play the effect of anti-inflammation and sterilization, it can shrink veins beneath the skin, relaxes hypertonicity or easy skin hypersensitive, and the effect that has antiinflammatory, calms the nerves, goes quick, moist and balance skin PH; Can eliminate free radical, remove and form wrinkle, brown patch; The antiallergic ability is arranged, and skin allergy or skin are itched has certain curative effect.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1. products 1
Formula table
Step 1. material is prepared
Press in the formula table, the weight portion proportioning of raw material of Chinese medicine medicine takes by weighing the Radix Angelicae Dahuricae, Radix Notoginseng, and dry Herba Erigerontis herb, Poria, mechanical activation comminution is the particle of 0.2～0.5cm particle diameter, adds 60% ethanol of 10 times of weight, room temperature soaked 8 hours down, soaked twice.
In extract, add active carbon powder; Stir and put into 5 degrees centigrade of environment after 5～10 minutes and left standstill 10～20 hours; Supernatant is crossed 120 mesh sieves; Under 35 degrees centigrade, filtrating is carried out concentrating under reduced pressure, be condensed into the equiponderant raw material of Chinese medicine medicine alcohol extract concentrated solution with the initiation material medicine, subsequent use.
White fungus broth: take by weighing Tremella, the little fire of water that adds 20 times of weight boiled 3～5 hours, filter and remove residue, and filtrating is concentrated into 5 times of weight of Tremella raw material and gets White fungus broth, and is subsequent use;
The method for preparing of step 2. product of the present invention:
Press the proportioning in the formula table, take by weighing raw material of Chinese medicine medicine alcohol extract concentrated solution, White fungus broth and other reagent that step 1 prepares.
Program feeds intake:
1. the composition of water is put in the water pretreatment jar, heating, temperature is controlled at 92～98 degrees centigrade, until dissolving fully.
2. in oil phase pretreatment jar, drop into the oil phase raw material, heating and turn on agitator, temperature is controlled at 92～98 degrees centigrade, until fusion fully.
3. before feeding intake, the airtight and preheating of vacuum response still reaches more than 50 degrees centigrade temperature in the kettle and gets final product.This moment, the open vacuum pump was that vacuum reaches 60Kpa (digital watch demonstration) in the still.
4. through filtering oil phase is all sucked in the vacuum emulsification still; Opening scraper plate, and then through filter sucking water, changing up successively that speed stirs, homogenizer (opened 6～8 minutes by the quick stirring homogenizer of the vacuum emulsification still of 700L; The quick stirring of the emulsifying still of 1300L and homogenizer were opened 8～10 minutes; Homogenizer 3000rpm, scraper plate speed of agitator are 30rpm) carry out vacuum emulsification, emulsifying this moment temperature in the kettle is not less than 85 degrees centigrade.Open cold radiator cooler behind the homogenizing, cooling rapidly.
5. when the mastic temperature was lower than 50 degrees centigrade, vacuum breaker added other adding ingredient from pot cover.Behind airtight emulsifying still, (vacuum to the 75～80Kpa of the vacuum emulsification still of 700L, the vacuum of the emulsifying still of 1300L is 70～75Kpa) to evacuation, opens scraper plate and stirs.
6. when temperature drops to 45 degrees centigrade, by outward appearance, viscosity and pH value standard test, qualified after, stop cooling water, can filter discharging.
7. semi-finished product left standstill 24 hours between material through drying in the air, and temperature is lower than 38 degrees centigrade can be canned.
Embodiment 2. products 2
Method for preparing is with embodiment 1.
Embodiment 3. products 3
Formula table
Method for preparing is with embodiment 1.
The said goods of the present invention is through check, and is nontoxic to skin, National standard.
Experimental example. cutaneous safety and product function demonstration test
Safety testing: invite 30 volunteers to carry out Product Safety test: 30 volunteer's skins are divided into 3 groups, and the product that embodiment 1,2,3 on probation respectively makes is applied in skin and buccal behind the ear.Sooner or later each once repeats 10 days.Allergy does not appear in experimenter's skin, plays erythra and other uncomfortable symptom.
Functional verification: behind safety testing, invite day sunburn, the personnel of freckle or cyasma and the tool problem skins such as dry microgroove of holding concurrently make an experiment, totally 15 experimenters.Test method: sooner or later avoid eye and be applied in face, sooner or later respectively once.A skin metabolism cycle is promptly observed the mug shot that front and back are used in front and back, the drying of experimenter's skin, microgroove after 28～35 days; And the speckle problem all be improved significantly; Especially the speckle site color obviously shoals, skin presents nature before bright, healthy, clean sense organ.
Claims (7)
1. a whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product is made up of following components in weight percentage: the crude drug Radix Angelicae Dahuricae, Radix Notoginseng, Herba Erigerontis; The ethanol extraction concentrated solution 10～20% of Poria, White fungus broth 5～10%, Oleum Hippophae 2～4%; Fruit acid 1～3%, emulsifying agent 4～8%, emollient 18～22%; Wetting agent 15～20%, whitening agent 0～5%, thickening agent 0～0.25%; Antiseptic 0～0.5%, antiinflammatory 0～0.15%, surplus is a rose water, pH is 6.5～7;
The said Radix Angelicae Dahuricae, Radix Notoginseng, Herba Erigerontis, the preparation process of the ethanol extraction concentrated solution of Poria is: take by weighing 4 kinds of crude drug; 60% ethanol extraction that adds 6～10 times of amounts, soak at room temperature extracts twice, and each 8～10 hours, merge extractive liquid; Activated carbon decolorizing is concentrated into said crude drug etc. heavyly, and the ratio of said crude drug is the Radix Angelicae Dahuricae 5～8 weight portions; Radix Notoginseng 2～4 weight portions, Herba Erigerontis 5～8 weight portions, Poria 3～4 weight portions;
The preparation process of said White fungus broth is: the little fire of water that Tremella adds 20 times of weight boiled 3 hours, removed slag and was concentrated into 5 times of weight of Tremella raw material;
Said whitening agent refers to VC ethylether and/or arbutin.
2. whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product according to claim 1; Said emollient is grouped into by the one-tenth of following weight fraction ratio: 3～5 parts of squalanes, gather 3～5 parts of Semen sojae atricolor sucrose ester, 1～3 part of shea butter; 2～4 parts of silicon waxes 3526,3～6 parts in 2～3 parts of Jojoba oils and olive oil.
3. whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product according to claim 1, said fruit acid refers to glycolic acid and/or lactic acid.
4. whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product according to claim 1, said thickening agent refers to card ripple 980 and/or HANSHENGJIAO.
5. whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product according to claim 1, said wetting agent refers to hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol, glycerol and/or 1,3 butylene glycol.
6. whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product according to claim 5, said wetting agent refer to 10 parts of hyaluronic acids, 2 parts of propylene glycol, 3 parts of glycerol, the mixture that 1,3 butylene glycol is 4 parts.
7. whitening and speckle dispelling skin-protection product according to claim 1, said emulsifying agent refers to tween 80, pentaerythritol stearic acid ester 2, Olivem 1000 and/or Oliwax LC.
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| CN201110247239A CN102293733B (en) | 2011-08-25 | 2011-08-25 | Overall whitening and speckle removal skin care product |
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