CN102871863B - Whitening and water replenishing complex - Google Patents
Whitening and water replenishing complex Download PDFInfo
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- CN102871863B CN102871863B CN201210409057.8A CN201210409057A CN102871863B CN 102871863 B CN102871863 B CN 102871863B CN 201210409057 A CN201210409057 A CN 201210409057A CN 102871863 B CN102871863 B CN 102871863B
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly discloses a whitening and water replenishing complex. The complex comprises from 0.05 to 0.1% of sodium hyaluronate, from 0.3 to 0.5% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, from 0.5 to 1% of phenethyl resorcinol, from 1 to 5% of niacinamide, from 55 to 60% of tripropylene glycol, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol, from 0.02 to 0.05% of glycolic acid, from 0.05 to 0.1% of sodium bisulfite and from 32.75 to 41.58% of deionized water. The whitening and water replenishing complex is directly added into a whitening and water replenishing moisturizing product at the temperature lower than 50 DEG C and is uniformly stirred. The whitening and water replenishing complex realizes a whitening effect, and can suppress melanin secretion of melanocyte simulating cells of the surface of the skin of a user, so that the skin of the user is whitened. Besides, the whitening and water replenishing complex realizes an anti-wrinkle effect, can promote collagen and elastin secretion of fibroblasts and realizes effects of preventing ageing of the skin of the user and improving elasticity of the skin of the user.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to cosmetic field, be specially a kind of whitening and moisturizing complex.
background technology
Due to the variation at age, the variation of physical function and poor environment Long Term Contact, particularly contacting UVA, UVB and IR irradiates, there is change in skin, comprise that flexibility missing, wrinkle formation, water-holding capacity disappearance, sagging and microcirculation disturbance, mottle form on 26S Proteasome Structure and Function.Especially contact skin ultraviolet enlivens synthesis of melanin in dermal melanin cell, and is discharged into epidermis.Melanin in melanocyte is synthetic to be mediated by cheese ammonia enzyme.Specifically, cell tyrosine is DOPA quinone by the enzymatic conversion of cheese ammonia, from it, by spontaneous enzyme reaction, produces melanin.Therefore, melanic generation can react to resist by some of blocking-up black attainment route of synthesis, and the typical case that this concept has been resisted skin darkening accepts extensively.As everyone knows, acne, abscess, the various dermatosis puzzlement of folliculitis youngster, existing also have a lot of efficacy cosmetic products for solving this type of skin problem.But finally descend pox seal, cicatrix, so also do not reached desirable therapeutic effect completely, because the effective component in life-time service curative effect product has caused thinning of skin, sensitize, a series of skin problems such as pigmentation.
The Effect raw material that skin-lightening cosmetic adds in the market mainly includes one or more in the raw materials such as arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, mercury compound, fruit acid, retinoic acid, hormone, VC derivant, cell growth factor, glabridin, Azelaic Acid, the skin-lightening cosmetic that contains above-mentioned raw materials, what have has also caused certain side effect to skin when producing white-skinned face function, have be after having added the Effect raw material that safety has no side effect its effect time shorter, cannot preserve for a long time.As arbutin has photosensitivity highly, need in product, add a large amount of sunscreen, from face, cause skin aging; Hydroquinone easily causes the rubescent or systemic side effects of local skin, easily causes skin carcinoma; Kojic acid and derivant thereof are that restraint of tyrosinase is active, but unstable, easy to change due to itself, need to add a large amount of antioxidant and UV absorbent in formula system; Vitamin C and derivant energy vat black pigment thereof and check melanin are synthetic, but DeGrain, itself is unstable, and use is restricted; Mercury compound has toxicity, huge to human body skin harm; Fruit acid is that soften cuticle and acceleration cutin pull-up fall to accelerating the composition that melanin excretes, without direct whitening function, and the whitening that can indirectly cooperate, but large to skin irritation; Retinoic acid is larger on anemia of pregnant woman's impact; Hormone easily causes thinning of skin, osteoporosis, easily bounce-back; When cell growth factor is added on cream, emulsion, cleansing milk, sunscreen cream, facial film, cosmetic water, eye cream, massage cream, hand cream or other cosmetics for face, cervical region, hand and health, its active shelf-life is shorter, also difficulty obtains positive effect, and irritated rate is also high; Glabridin effect is poor, extremely expensive concentrate, and cost performance is not high; Azelaic Acid can reduce the generation of tryrosinase or synthetic, suppresses TRP-1,2 synthetic, but poorly soluble, compatibility is poor, zest is large.
Summary of the invention
The present invention is just for above technical problem, provide and can improve the pathological changes that applies some make up and cause because of age, long-term Exposure to Sunlight, because of the family of improper use, and the skin appearance, the function that change because of factors such as smoking and malnutrition, there is a kind of whitening and moisturizing complex of good synergy.
Technical scheme of the present invention is:
A kind of whitening and moisturizing complex, by following composition, made, in quality percentage composition: hyaluronate sodium 0.05-0.1%, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium 0.3-0.5%, Symwhite-337 0.5-1%, nicotiamide 1-5%, 1.3 propylene glycol 55-60%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, glycolic acid 0.02-0.05%, sodium sulfite 0.05-0.1%, deionized water 32.75-41.58%, each composition percentage composition sum is 100%.
Whitening and moisturizing complex, consists of the following composition in quality percentage composition: hyaluronate sodium 0.1%, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium 0.5%, Symwhite-337 1%, nicotiamide 5%, 1.3 propylene glycol 60%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, glycolic acid 0.05%, sodium sulfite 0.1%, deionized water 32.75%.
Whitening and moisturizing complex is for the face of leave and the whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products at other position of health, and adding proportion is the 1-5% of whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products gross mass percentage composition.
Whitening and moisturizing complex, in the environment below 50 ℃, is added directly in whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products and stirs.
Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronic acid, HA) is a kind of mucopolysaccharide being connected and composed again by the disaccharidase unit weight of glucuronic acid and NAG, is extensively present in the histiocyte interstitial of animal and the pod membrane of some antibacterial.It has HA extensively and unique using value in ceremonies such as medicine, cosmetics, food.Especially at cosmetic field, HA, with moisturizing activity and the film property of its impayable skinfeel, uniqueness, is widely used aspect skin care item.
In cosmetics, HA consumption when above, will produce molecular folding 0.1%, forms continuous three-dimensional network, produces various physiological effecies, so 0.1% is effective working concentration of HA.
Hyaluronic acid is uniquely in naturally occurring mucopolysaccharide there is no a Sulfated polysaccharide, and hydrophilic is strong, is unbranched linear molecule, is the naturally occurring component substances of skin, has high affinity with histiocyte.Can promote fibroblasts to secrete collagen protein and elastin laminin, thereby have the effect of the skin aging of preventing and increase skin elasticity.At present the theory of Transdermal absorption is to be based upon spherical molecule in theory, compares with hyaluronic acid, and the molecular shape that this theory adopts and organize affinity to have larger difference, is not suitable for hyaluronic Transdermal absorption.
The hydrophilic character of uniqueness and the excellent histocompatibility of HA, LMW HA is applied in cosmetic field, can effectively provide ectogenic HA to skin corium, increases skin HA concentration, and improve the content of deep skin moisture content, contribute to maintain the desirable water content of skin, effectively improve soft appropriateness and the elasticity of skin, can promote blood microcirculation, regulation of skin metabolism, improve skin-nourishing, play anti-wrinkle cosmetic, prevent that skin aging from working in coordination with skin-whitening.
The molecular formula of glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium: C
42h
60k
2o
16, molecular weight 899.13.White fine powder, tool sweet taste, water-soluble good, mouthfeel is pure.Glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium has the effects such as antiinflammatory, antiallergic, moisturizing.Glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, at cosmetic industry, can be used for anti-freckle agent, anti-allergic agent.Stop the release of histamine, there is removing toxic substances, sterilization, anti-allergic effects, the effect of similar adrenal gland's sebum hormone, but life-time service also has no side effect.There are the several functions such as antibacterial, antiinflammatory, removing toxic substances, antiallergic, deodorization.For antiallergic, sun-proof, spot-removing ointment is white, emulsion etc., consumption 0.1%~0.5%.
Nicotiamide, claims again vitamin B3, Niacinamide, and its molecular formula is C
6h
6n
2o, is white crystals or crystalline powder, odorless or have micro-smelly, the micro-acid of taste; Aqueous solution shows acid reaction.
Nicotiamide is the generally acknowledged skin anti-aging composition of cosmetic field, its most important effect aspect skin anti-aging is to improve microcirculation, can make Marjoram Extract and blood capillary open, be conducive to local organization, cellular material exchange, maintain the normal function of blood vessel in body, colour of skin dimness, jaundice, the famished look that can alleviate and prevent skin to produce in aging course in early days.Nicotiamide also can be repaired impaired Stratum corneum lipids barrier, improves skin resistance.Also has deep layer lock water effect, so the skin care item that contain nicotiamide are to having extremely strong lock water, moisture-keeping efficacy.Certainly, these effects of nicotiamide all depend on enough concentration, and large-scale medicine clinical research proves: only have more than 5% concentration just to have above-mentioned effect.With age, the skin dim Huang that becomes is unglazed, and external nicotiamide can improve this dim Huang.Random research shows 2 use nicotiamide stock solutions every day, within the 8th week, plays skin texture and significantly improves, and microgroove and wrinkle obviously reduce; The high resilience that becomes of the 12nd week skin, pigmentation and erythema significantly reduce, and dim Huang obviously alleviates, and skin seems to be rich in gloss.Old and feeble skin NADH and the content of NADPH are day by day decayed, and both are controlling overall process synthetic in cell and that decompose.Nicotiamide, can be by regulating the balance of level in both bodies to play a role as the precursor of NADH and NADPH.High-caliber NADPH brings into play powerful antioxidation, stops protein and sugar that spontaneous glycosylation occurs.The glycated protein that glycosylation produces is deposited on corium and presents yellowish-brown.Saccharifying product between the dermis of skin collagen of 80 years old is 5 times of 20 years old skin.Glycated protein presents in dim yellow performance and plays an important role at old and feeble skin, and nicotiamide improves NADPH to bring into play anti-glycosylation, and then reduces the jaundice of old and feeble skin, alleviates facial famished look, improves skin quality.It is one of skin quality problem that pore increases.External nicotiamide can reduce the generation of fatty acid and triglyceride in sebum, thereby receives fine, soft fur hole and reduce acne the order of severity while occurring.Ceramide is the important composition of skin barrier.In the horny layer of atopic dermatitis, old people's skin and winter dryness skin, ceramide content significantly reduces.Nicotiamide strengthens skin barrier function by increasing ceramide content in horny layer, reduces percutaneous moisture content and runs off.
1,3-PD, its chemical formula is CH
2oHCH
2cH
2oH; 1; ammediol is as the dihydroxylic alcohols of emollient and wetting agent; in personal-care supplies, play important potentiation; it will be widely used in the articles for use such as skin detergents, skin cleansing cream, perfume, deodorant and cosmetics as carrier solvent; can promote skin metabolism, have that the xerosis cutis of preventing is coarse, an effect of delay skin aging, protection skin.
Symwhite-337 is the natural active matter that comes from green plants, collection " green plants, safe and reliable " and " efficient decolorizing " three close the humorous skin depigmentation component that is unified in one, it can infiltrate rapidly skin, when not affecting cell proliferation concentration, the activity that can effectively suppress the tryrosinase in skin, block melanic formation, by self and the direct combination of cheese ammonia enzyme, accelerate melanic decomposition and excretion, thereby minimizing Skin pigmentation, dispelling stain and passeris montani saturati speckle, and melanocyte is not produced to toxic, zest, the side effect such as sensitization, also has sterilization simultaneously, the effect of antiinflammatory.It is the current popular raw material of whitening the most safely and effectively, is also the desirable skin-whitening and speckle eliminating activating agent of 21st century.
Whitening and moisturizing complex preparation method of the present invention comprises the following steps:
(1) deionized water is heated to 95 degrees Celsius, insulated sterilizing half an hour, is chilled to room temperature standby;
(2) in proportion Symwhite-337 being dissolved in to 1.3 propylene glycol, to add phenoxyethanol to stir evenly standby again;
(3) nicotiamide, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, sodium sulfite, glycolic acid, hyaluronate sodium being added successively sterilizing deionized water for stirring be dissolved to dissolves completely;
(4) two kinds of materials in step (2) and step (3) are mixed to the filtration discharging that stirs.
The raw material using in the present invention, instrument, equipment and aid are all commercially available.
Compared with prior art, beneficial effect is:
(1) there is whitening function, can suppress the short black emiocytosis melanin of skin surface, with this, reach the effect of skin whitening;
(2) there is crease-resistant effect, can promote fibroblasts to secrete collagen protein and elastin laminin, thereby have the effect of the skin aging of preventing and increase skin elasticity;
(3) there is moisturizing effects, can effectively provide ectogenic hyaluronic acid to skin corium, increase skin hyaluronic acid concentration, and improve the content of deep skin moisture content, contribute to maintain the desirable water content of skin, effectively improve soft appropriateness and the elasticity of skin;
(4) there is antiallergic effect, can stop the release of histamine, there is removing toxic substances, sterilization, anti-allergic effects and can improve skin immunization power;
(5) there is repair: improve microcirculation, can make Marjoram Extract and blood capillary open, be conducive to local organization, cellular material exchange, maintain the normal function of blood vessel in body.To problem skins such as skin yellowing, tarnish, skin sore, can carry out daily reparation, damaging skin be there is to the effect of quick reparation.
(6) by thering is bioactive hyaluronic acid, the glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium with antiallergic antiinflammatory effectively engages with cosmetic industry raw material, collaborative have good whitening and moisturizing effects to skin, to skin, without any negative interaction, safety improves greatly.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with the specific embodiment, the present invention is described in further detail.
But this should be interpreted as to the scope of the above-mentioned theme of the present invention only limits to following embodiment.
Embodiment 1:
A kind of whitening and moisturizing complex, the deionized water that the hyaluronate sodium that is 0.05% by quality percentage composition, 0.3% glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, 0.5% Symwhite-337,1% nicotiamide, 55% 1,3 propylene glycol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol, 0.05% glycolic acid, 0.1% sodium sulfite and quality percentage composition are 42.5% is made.
The preparation method of this whitening and moisturizing complex is:
(1) take, in proportion deionized water, then deionized water is heated to 95 degrees Celsius, then carry out insulated sterilizing half an hour, be chilled to room temperature standby;
(2), in proportion Symwhite-337 is dissolved in to 1,3 propylene glycol, then add stir after phenoxyethanol standby;
(3), take in proportion and nicotiamide, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, sodium sulfite, glycolic acid, hyaluronate sodium are added successively sterilizing deionized water for stirring to be dissolved to dissolving completely below;
(4), above-mentioned steps (2) and step (3) are mixed to the filtration discharging that stirs.
Embodiment 2:
Whitening and moisturizing complex, the deionized water that the hyaluronate sodium that is 0.1% by quality percentage composition, 0.5% glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, 1% Symwhite-337,5% nicotiamide, 60% 1,3 propylene glycol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol, 0.05% glycolic acid, 0.1% sodium sulfite and quality percentage composition are 32.75% is made.
Consistent with embodiment 1 of its preparation method.
Embodiment 3:
Whitening and moisturizing complex, the deionized water that the hyaluronate sodium that is 0.08% by quality percentage composition, 0.4% glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, 0.6% Symwhite-337,3% nicotiamide, 58% 1.3 propylene glycol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol, 0.04% glycolic acid, 0.08% sodium sulfite and quality percentage composition are 37.3% is made, consistent with embodiment 1 of its preparation method.
The whitening and moisturizing complex of above-mentioned 3 embodiment is added in basic mastic by 3%, to every patient, each 30 has carried out efficacy experiment, obtain the result as following table: the data from table can be found out, whitening and speckle dispelling effective percentage reaches more than 90%, crease-resistant moisturizing effective percentage reaches more than 86, and skin repair rate reaches more than 76%.Therefore the present invention is a kind of whitening complex with whitening, crease-resistant moisturizing, repair function, after patient of the present invention uses without adverse side effect.
In sum, the whitening and moisturizing complex that used containing quality percentage composition every day is 5% 2 times, is used 28 days continuously, can obviously improve the color of skin, can reduce melanic content.To B16 cell, melanic generation has inhibitory action to whitening and moisturizing complex.
Claims (6)
1. a whitening and moisturizing complex, it is characterized in that being made by following composition, in quality percentage composition: hyaluronate sodium 0.05-0.1%, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium 0.3-0.5%, Symwhite-337 0.5-1%, nicotiamide 1-5%, 1, ammediol 55-60%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, glycolic acid 0.02-0.05%, sodium sulfite 0.05-0.1%, deionized water 32.75-41.58%, each composition percentage composition sum is 100%.
2. whitening and moisturizing complex according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in quality percentage composition, by following composition, made: hyaluronate sodium 0.1%, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium 0.5%, Symwhite-337 1%, nicotiamide 5%, 1,3-PD 60%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, glycolic acid 0.05%, sodium sulfite 0.1%, deionized water 32.75%.
3. according to the preparation method of claim 1 or whitening and moisturizing complex claimed in claim 2, it is characterized in that comprising the following steps:
(1) take, in proportion deionized water, then deionized water is heated to 95 ℃, insulated sterilizing half an hour, be chilled to room temperature standby;
(2), in proportion Symwhite-337 is dissolved in to 1,3-PD, then add stir after phenoxyethanol standby;
(3), nicotiamide, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium, sodium sulfite, glycolic acid, hyaluronate sodium being added successively sterilizing deionized water for stirring be dissolved to dissolves completely;
(4), above-mentioned steps (2) and step (3) are mixed to the filtration discharging that stirs.
4. according to the application of claim 1 or whitening and moisturizing complex claimed in claim 2, it is characterized in that: described whitening and moisturizing complex is for the face of leave and the whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products at other position of health, and adding proportion is the 1-5% of whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products gross mass percentage composition.
5. the application of whitening and moisturizing complex according to claim 4, is characterized in that: described whitening and moisturizing complex, under the environment of <50 ℃, is added directly in whitening and moisturizing skin moistening series products and stirs.
6. according to the preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing complex shown in claim 3, it is characterized in that: the temperature of described insulated sterilizing is 95 ℃.
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