CN116115520A - Anhydrous cosmetic composition and preparation process thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The application discloses anhydrous cosmetic composition and a preparation process thereof, wherein the anhydrous cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 65-80% of grease matrix; 0.5-10% of vanilla butyl ether; 3-5% of fullerene sodium hyaluronate; 15-20% of other functional components. The application solves the technical problem of poor permeability of active ingredients in cosmetics in the prior art.

Description

Anhydrous cosmetic composition and preparation process thereof

Technical Field

The application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an anhydrous cosmetic composition and a preparation process thereof.

Background

Cosmetics, especially skin care products, are mainly coated on the surface of human skin in a smearing way, pass through superficial cells of the skin and enter the deep layer of the skin to achieve the effects of cleaning, maintaining and beautifying, the cosmetics mainly take water as a basic solvent and carry functional components in the water into the skin, however, the process of penetrating the cosmetics into the skin needs to pass through epidermal cells, and the intercellular spaces are filled among the epidermal cells, and are mainly composed of fat-soluble components, so that the fat-soluble components relatively easily pass through, the water-soluble components are relatively difficult to pass through, and the water-soluble components which cannot pass through are adhered to the surface of the skin and are quickly emitted into the air to run off, namely, the permeability of the effective components is reduced, and many effective components are lost and cannot be fully utilized.

Disclosure of Invention

The main purpose of the application is to provide an anhydrous cosmetic composition and a preparation process thereof, and aims to solve the technical problem of poor permeability of active ingredients in cosmetics in the prior art.

To achieve the above object, the present application provides an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in mass percent:

65-80% of grease matrix;

0.5-10% of vanilla butyl ether;

3-5% of fullerene sodium hyaluronate;

15-20% of other functional components.

Optionally, the lipid matrix comprises glycerol and/or caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Optionally, the mass percentage of the glycerin in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 35-80%; the mass percentage of the caprylic/capric triglyceride in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 0-30%.

Optionally, the other functional components include at least one of royal jelly extract, honey, propolis extract and aloe extract.

Optionally, the royal jelly extract is 2-4% by mass of the anhydrous cosmetic composition; the mass percentage of the honey in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 2-4%; the mass percentage of the propolis extract in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 2-4%; the aloe extract accounts for 5-15% of the anhydrous cosmetic composition by mass.

Optionally, the anhydrous cosmetic composition further comprises 5-10% of a nonionic emulsifier.

Optionally, the nonionic emulsifier comprises polyglycerol-10 stearate.

Optionally, the anhydrous cosmetic composition further comprises 0.5% preservative.

Optionally, the preservative comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone.

The application also provides a preparation process of the anhydrous cosmetic composition, which comprises the following steps:

weighing a grease matrix, a stabilizer, vanilla butyl ether, fullerene sodium hyaluronate and at least one other functional component according to a preset raw material ratio;

uniformly mixing part of the grease matrix with the stabilizer to obtain a first mixture;

uniformly mixing vanilla butyl ether with the rest of the grease matrix to obtain a second mixture;

dropwise adding the second mixture into the first mixture under the stirring of 300-1000rpm/min, and uniformly stirring to obtain a third mixture;

and adding the other functional components of the fullerene sodium hyaluronate into the third mixture under the stirring state, and stirring until the mixture is yellow semitransparent gel-like to obtain the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

The application provides an anhydrous cosmetic composition, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 65-80% of grease matrix; 0.5-10% of vanilla butyl ether; 3-5% of fullerene sodium hyaluronate; 15-20% of other functional components. The grease matrix is selected to replace water base to serve as a basic solvent of other components, the functional components dissolved in the grease matrix can smoothly pass through skin epidermal cells and permeate into the deep skin, the vanilla butyl ether is added to enable skin to generate heat sensation, skin microcirculation is promoted, and further, the permeation of the grease matrix and the functional components dissolved in the grease matrix is promoted, permeation efficiency and permeation effect are improved, the time of aggregation of the grease matrix on the surface layer of the skin is shortened, the sealing property of the surface layer of the skin is reduced, and further, the permeation absorption of external supplementary moisture and effective components of the skin can be further promoted, meanwhile, the stimulus of the vanilla butyl ether to the skin is restrained by adding the sodium fullerene hyaluronic acid, the skin is relieved, the sodium fullerene hyaluronic acid and other functional components can better permeate into the deep skin, the moisture and the water-soluble components which can not pass through are relatively difficult to pass through the epidermal cells are adhered to the surface of the skin, namely, the permeation of the effective components is reduced, the effective components can not be fully utilized, and the technical defects of permeation of the effective components are overcome, and the effective components in the cosmetic can be improved.

Drawings

The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification, illustrate embodiments consistent with the application and together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the application.

In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments of the present application or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings that are required to be used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly described below, and it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that other drawings can be obtained from these drawings without inventive effort.

Fig. 1 is a graph showing the moisture content change trend of the skin horny layer corresponding to the moisturizing effect according to the first embodiment of the present application;

fig. 2 is a graph showing the trend of erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect according to the first embodiment of the present application;

FIG. 3 is a chart showing erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of the first embodiment of the present application;

fig. 4 is a graph showing the overall length trend of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the relaxing effect according to the first embodiment of the present application;

FIG. 5 is a diagram of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the soothing effect of the first embodiment of the present application;

fig. 6 is a graph showing the trend of moisture content of the skin horny layer according to the moisturizing effect of the second embodiment of the present application;

fig. 7 is a graph showing the trend of erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of the second embodiment of the present application;

FIG. 8 is a chart of erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of example two of the present application;

fig. 9 is a graph showing the overall length trend of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the relaxing effect in the second embodiment of the present application;

fig. 10 is a diagram of an eye tail wrinkle corresponding to the relaxing effect of the second embodiment in the present application;

fig. 11 is a graph showing the moisture content change trend of the skin horny layer according to the moisturizing effect of the third embodiment of the present application;

fig. 12 is a graph showing the trend of erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of the third embodiment of the present application;

FIG. 13 is a graph of erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of example III of the present application;

fig. 14 is a graph showing the overall length change trend of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the relaxing effect of the third embodiment of the present application;

FIG. 15 is a chart showing the appearance of tail wrinkles corresponding to the soothing effect of embodiment III of the present application;

FIG. 16 is a graph showing the moisture content change trend of the skin horny layer according to the moisturizing effect of comparative example one in the present application;

FIG. 17 is a graph showing the trend of the erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example one in the present application;

FIG. 18 is a graph showing erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example one of the present application;

fig. 19 is a graph showing the overall length change trend of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example one in the present application;

FIG. 20 is a graph of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example one of the present application;

FIG. 21 is a graph showing the trend of moisture content of the stratum corneum corresponding to the moisturizing effect of comparative example II in the present application;

FIG. 22 is a graph showing the trend of erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example two in the present application;

FIG. 23 is a graph of erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example two in the present application;

fig. 24 is a graph showing the overall length change trend of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the relaxing effect of the second comparative example in the present application;

FIG. 25 is a graph of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example two in the present application;

fig. 26 is a graph showing the trend of moisture content of the skin horny layer according to the moisturizing effect of comparative example three in the present application;

FIG. 27 is a graph showing the trend of the erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example III in the present application;

FIG. 28 is a graph of erythema index corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example III in the present application;

fig. 29 is a graph showing the overall length change trend of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example three in the present application;

fig. 30 is a diagram of the tail wrinkles corresponding to the soothing effect of comparative example three in the present application.

Detailed Description

In order to make the above objects, features and advantages of the present invention more comprehensible, the following description will make the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention clear and complete. It will be apparent that the described embodiments are only some, but not all, embodiments of the invention. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.

Embodiments of the present application provide an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in mass percent:

65-80% of grease matrix;

0.5-10% of vanilla butyl ether;

3-5% of fullerene sodium hyaluronate;

15-20% of other functional components.

In this embodiment, it should be noted that, cosmetics, especially skin care products, are mainly applied on the skin surface of a human body in a smearing manner, pass through superficial cells of the skin and enter deep layers of the skin to achieve the effects of cleaning, maintaining and beautifying, the cosmetics mainly use water as a basic solvent and carry functional components therein into the skin through the water, however, the process of penetrating the cosmetics into the skin needs to pass through the epidermal cells, and the intercellular spaces between the epidermal cells are filled with the intercellular spaces mainly composed of fat-soluble components, so that the fat-soluble components are relatively easy to pass through, the water-soluble components are relatively difficult to pass through, and the water-soluble components which cannot pass through adhere to the skin surface and are quickly dispersed into the air to run off, that is, the permeability of the effective components is reduced, and many effective components are lost and cannot be fully utilized. In the existing products, products which take grease as main matrix components like cream products, solid grease products and the like are also available, but the products are often strong in sealing performance and poor in permeability, so that the skin feel is too thick, acne is easy to occur, the fluidity is poor, the permeation speed is low, and the active substances cannot exert efficacy, so that the repairing effect is poor.

In this embodiment, the fat base means a fat component for dissolving other components as a base, and illustratively, the fat base may be at least one of glycerin,/or caprylic/capric triglyceride, polyglycerin-2 triisostearate, isononyl isononanoate, triglyceride (ethylhexanoic acid) and the like, and the content of the fat base may be 65% -80%, for example 65%, 70%, 75%, 80% and the like, of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. Compared with the grease matrix which takes water as the matrix, the grease matrix can better penetrate into the deep skin through skin epidermal cells, so that the effective components dissolved in the grease matrix are brought into the deep skin, and the permeability of the effective components is improved.

The vanilla butyl ether is added into the anhydrous cosmetic composition, so that skin is enabled to feel hot, skin microcirculation is promoted, penetration of an oil matrix and functional components dissolved in the oil matrix is promoted, penetration efficiency and penetration effect are improved, time for the oil matrix to gather on the surface layer of the skin is shortened, closure of the surface layer of the skin is reduced, and penetration and absorption of external supplementary moisture and effective components by the skin are further promoted; the skin surface can be covered by a film formed by combining a plurality of water-soluble molecules, so that the loss of skin moisture is prevented, and the skin is moistened and protected; can also stimulate damaged skin, and helps to improve skin state, make skin smooth and elastic, and reduce wrinkles and nevi. The vanilla butyl ether is present in an amount of 0.5-10%, e.g., 0.5%, 1%, 2.5%, 5%, 10%, etc., of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

The fullerene sodium hyaluronate is a material prepared by dispersing fullerene C60 in sodium hyaluronate by a physical dispersion method, and can be purchased from commercial products, such as a fullerene sodium hyaluronate product prepared and produced by Beijing Funakang biotechnology limited company, wherein the fullerene is found by astronomists when studying the astronomical clouds, is originally not existing on the earth, but widely distributed in the universe, has a stable three-dimensional delocalized conjugated molecular structure, can quench free radicals effectively, and has the effects of quenching free radicals, resisting oxidation for a long time, inhibiting inflammatory factors, regulating inflammatory reactions, repairing and protecting cell activities and the like. The aloe extract has antiinflammatory, antibacterial, analgesic, hemostatic, antipruritic, antiallergic, wound healing promoting, and scar reducing effects.

Under the condition that fullerene is added into the anhydrous cosmetic composition, the vanilla butyl ether can generate a synergistic effect with the fullerene, promote the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, strengthen skin barriers, and can cooperate with ceramide and natural moisturizing factor NMF in skin to improve skin moisturizing ability and strengthen skin barriers; can also inhibit cell inflammation, reduce red swelling and itching pain, improve skin irritation generated when the vanillyl butyl ether is singly used, and the fullerene can disperse the vanillyl butyl ether molecules, and can inhibit adverse reactions such as sensitization and the like on skin cells, thereby reducing the possibility of sensitization of the vanillyl butyl ether.

The other functional components refer to components added to the anhydrous cosmetic composition for achieving effects of moisturizing, whitening, anti-wrinkle, anti-oxidation, and the like, in addition to the fullerene sodium hyaluronate, and may be, for example, at least one of royal jelly extract, honey, propolis extract, aloe extract, sodium hyaluronate, polypeptide, vitamin E, and the like, and the content of the other functional components accounts for 15-20%, for example 15%, 18%, 20%, and the like of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

Optionally, the lipid matrix comprises glycerol and/or caprylic/capric triglyceride.

In this example, glycerin is a surfactant with high moisture retention, and has a hygroscopic effect on the skin; caprylic/capric triglyceride is a weak polar lipid, has similar characteristics to human skin, and is easily absorbed by skin.

Optionally, the mass percentage of the glycerin in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 35-80%; the mass percentage of the caprylic/capric triglyceride in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 0-30%.

In this embodiment, the mass percentage of the glycerin in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 35-80%, such as 35%, 50%, 65%, 75%, 80%, etc.; the caprylic/capric triglyceride is present in the anhydrous cosmetic composition in a mass percentage of 0-30%, such as 0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, etc.

Optionally, the other functional components include at least one of royal jelly extract, honey, propolis extract and aloe extract.

In the embodiment, the honey is a natural nutrient substance, wherein bioactive substances such as monosaccharide, vitamin, enzymes and the like are favorable for being absorbed by skin cells, can effectively improve the nutrition state of the skin surface, lead the skin to be fine and smooth, keep natural ruddy, and are also favorable for delaying the aging of the skin cells, thereby playing roles in delaying or reducing wrinkles and the like. The Lac Regis Apis extract contains more than 20 amino acids, and has effects in supplying cell energy, recovering cell activity, promoting skin growth, and repairing seborrheic dermatitis and acne. The propolis extract has effects of nourishing and moistening skin, sterilizing, diminishing inflammation, relieving itching, preventing freezing and cracking, and resisting infection.

Optionally, the royal jelly extract is 2-4% by mass of the anhydrous cosmetic composition; the mass percentage of the honey in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 2-4%; the mass percentage of the propolis extract in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 2-4%; the aloe extract accounts for 5-15% of the anhydrous cosmetic composition by mass.

In this embodiment, the mass percentage of the royal jelly extract in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 2 to 4%, for example, 2%, 3%, 4%, etc.; the weight percentage of the honey in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 2-4%, such as 2%, 3%, 4%, etc.; the propolis extract is 2-4% by mass, such as 2%, 3%, 4% by mass, etc., in the anhydrous cosmetic composition; the mass percentage of the fullerene sodium hyaluronate in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 3-5%, such as 3%, 4%, 5%, etc.; the aloe extract is 5-15% by mass, such as 5%, 8%, 12%, 15% by mass, etc., of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

Optionally, the anhydrous cosmetic composition further comprises 5-10% of a nonionic emulsifier.

In this embodiment, a nonionic emulsifier such as at least one of lecithin, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, etc. may be further added to the anhydrous cosmetic composition, and the nonionic emulsifier may be 5 to 10% by mass, such as 5%, 8%, 10% by mass, etc. of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

Optionally, the nonionic emulsifier comprises polyglycerol-10 stearate.

In this example, the polyglycerin-10 stearate has little skin irritation, and mainly plays the roles of softening agent, skin conditioning agent, surfactant, emulsifier and the like in the product.

Optionally, the anhydrous cosmetic composition further comprises 0.5% preservative.

In this embodiment, a preservative such as at least one of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, p-hydroxyacetophenone, etc., may be further added to the anhydrous cosmetic composition, and the mass percentage of the preservative in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 0.5%.

Optionally, the preservative comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone.

In the embodiment, the p-hydroxyacetophenone can be added as a preservative, is a raw material for manufacturing cholagogues and other organic synthesis, is an important intermediate for drug synthesis, has high safety and can play a role in preserving.

In this embodiment, there is provided an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in mass percent: 65-80% of grease matrix; 0.5-10% of vanilla butyl ether; 3-5% of fullerene sodium hyaluronate; 15-20% of other functional components. The grease matrix is selected to replace water base to serve as a basic solvent of other components, the functional components dissolved in the grease matrix can smoothly pass through skin epidermal cells and permeate into the deep skin, the vanilla butyl ether is added to enable skin to generate heat sensation, skin microcirculation is promoted, and further, the permeation of the grease matrix and the functional components dissolved in the grease matrix is promoted, permeation efficiency and permeation effect are improved, the time of aggregation of the grease matrix on the surface layer of the skin is shortened, the sealing property of the surface layer of the skin is reduced, and further, the permeation absorption of external supplementary moisture and effective components of the skin can be further promoted, meanwhile, the stimulus of the vanilla butyl ether to the skin is restrained by adding the sodium fullerene hyaluronic acid, the skin is relieved, the sodium fullerene hyaluronic acid and other functional components can better permeate into the deep skin, the moisture and the water-soluble components which can not pass through are relatively difficult to pass through the epidermal cells are adhered to the surface of the skin, namely, the permeation of the effective components is reduced, the effective components can not be fully utilized, and the technical defects of permeation of the effective components are overcome, and the effective components in the cosmetic can be improved.

Further, the present invention also provides a preparation process of the anhydrous cosmetic composition, for preparing the anhydrous cosmetic composition as described above, the preparation process of the anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

step S10, weighing an oil matrix, a stabilizer, vanilla butyl ether, fullerene sodium hyaluronate and at least one other functional component according to a preset raw material ratio;

step S20, taking part of the grease matrix and the stabilizer, and uniformly mixing to obtain a first mixture;

step S30, uniformly mixing the vanilla butyl ether with the rest of the grease matrix to obtain a second mixture;

step S40, dropwise adding the second mixture into the first mixture under stirring at a rotating speed of 300-1000rpm/min, and uniformly stirring to obtain a third mixture;

and step S50, adding the other functional components of the fullerene sodium hyaluronate into the third mixture under the stirring state, and stirring until the mixture is yellow semitransparent gel-like to obtain the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

In this embodiment, specifically, the raw material ratio of each raw material may be determined in advance according to the queried data and experimental test results, and the grease matrix, the stabilizer, the vanilla butyl ether, the fullerene sodium hyaluronate and at least one other functional component may be weighed according to the preset raw material ratio for standby, and a part of the weighed grease matrix may be taken and mixed with the stabilizer uniformly to obtain a first mixture; adding vanilla butyl ether into the rest of the grease matrix, and uniformly mixing to obtain a second mixture; dropwise adding the second mixture into the first mixture while stirring under stirring at a rotation speed of 300-1000rpm/min, such as 300rpm/min, 500rpm/min, 800rpm/min, 1000rpm/min, etc., and stirring uniformly to obtain a third mixture; and continuously stirring, adding the other functional components of the fullerene sodium hyaluronate into the third mixture one by one or after mixing in a stirring state, and stirring until the mixture is yellow semitransparent gel-like, thereby obtaining the anhydrous cosmetic composition, wherein the viscosity of the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 80000-180000cp. Wherein the stabilizer is a component capable of stabilizing physicochemical properties of the cosmetic, and can be an emulsifier, a thickener, etc.; the process parameters such as the rotational speed, time, temperature, etc. for mixing the components may be determined according to actual conditions, experimental test results, etc., which are not limited in this embodiment.

In one embodiment, the process for preparing the anhydrous cosmetic composition comprises: weighing an oil matrix, a stabilizer, vanilla butyl ether, fullerene sodium hyaluronate and at least one other functional component according to a preset raw material ratio, wherein the oil matrix comprises glycerin and/or caprylic/capric triglyceride; mixing glycerol and stabilizer at 200-400rpm/min, such as 200rpm/min, 300rpm/min, 400rpm/min, etc., stirring for 0-30min, such as 0min, 10min, 20min, 30min, etc., to obtain a first mixture; mixing vanilla butyl ether and caprylic/capric triglyceride at 0-300rpm/min, such as 0rpm/min, 100rpm/min, 200rpm/min, 300rpm/min, etc., stirring for 0-30min, such as 0min, 10min, 20min, 30min, etc., and mixing to obtain second mixture; dropwise adding the second mixture into the first mixture under stirring at a rotation speed of 300-1000rpm/min, such as 300rpm/min, 500rpm/min, 800rpm/min, 1000rpm/min, etc., stirring for 0-90min, such as 0min, 30min, 60min, 90min, etc., and mixing uniformly to obtain a third mixture; mixing the other functional components of the fullerene sodium hyaluronate under stirring at a rotating speed of 0-300rpm/min, such as 0rpm/min, 100rpm/min, 200rpm/min, 300rpm/min and the like, stirring for 0-30min, such as 0min, 10min, 20min, 30min and the like, adding the mixture into the third mixture under stirring, stirring at a rotating speed of 0-1000rpm/min, such as 0rpm/min, 300rpm/min, 500rpm/min, 1000rpm/min and the like, stirring for 0-90min, such as 0min, 30min, 60min, 90min and the like, and stirring until the mixture is yellow semitransparent gel-like to obtain the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

The preparation process of the anhydrous cosmetic composition provided by the embodiment is used for preparing the anhydrous cosmetic composition, and solves the technical problem of poor permeability of active ingredients in the prior art cosmetics. Compared with the prior art, the preparation process of the anhydrous cosmetic composition provided by the embodiment of the invention has the same beneficial effects as the anhydrous cosmetic composition provided by the embodiment, and other technical features in the preparation process of the anhydrous cosmetic composition are the same as the features disclosed by the method of the embodiment, and are not repeated herein.

Further, the performance of the anhydrous cosmetic composition is evaluated, and the evaluation content comprises: moisturizing effect, soothing effect, and anti-wrinkle effect.

The method for testing the moisturizing effect comprises the following steps:

(1) Testing environmental conditions: the temperature is 20-22 ℃ and the relative humidity is 40-60%, and real-time dynamic monitoring is carried out;

(2) Sample use requirements: the method is used according to the relevant requirements of parts, modes, frequency, notes and the like;

(3) The number of subjects and the requirements: the effective cases are not less than 30 cases, and the basic value of the skin moisture tester is 15-45 for 18-65 years old;

(4) And (3) measuring: testing according to the use instruction of the skin moisture measuring instrument; the left and right parts are randomly divided into a sample smearing side and a comparison side;

(5) And (3) calculating: carrying out descriptive statistics on the measured values of the target analysis positions of the wrinkles in the sample smearing side and the control side, wherein the descriptive statistics comprise data calculation such as quantity, mean value, standard deviation, minimum value, median value, maximum value and the like;

(6) And (3) result judgment: the moisture content of the horny layer in the test area is obviously different before and after the product is used, which indicates that the tested sample has the moisturizing effect.

The test method of the relieving effect comprises the following steps:

(1) Testing environmental conditions: the temperature is 20-22 ℃ and the relative humidity is 40-60%, and real-time dynamic monitoring is carried out;

(2) Sample use requirements: the method is used according to the relevant requirements of parts, modes, frequency, notes and the like;

(3) The number of subjects and the requirements: the number of effective cases is not less than 30, and the sensitive skin test population is selected according to different populations aiming at each sensitive efficacy skin care product;

(4) Return visit time: in principle, the clinical observation time should be 1 month, and according to the purpose of clinical observation, the return visit can be selected at the time points of the day of use, 1 day, 7 days, 14 days, 1 month and the like;

(5) And (3) measuring: testing according to the use instruction of the skin moisture measuring instrument; the left and right parts are randomly divided into a sample smearing side and a comparison side;

(6) And (3) calculating: facial image analysis: after the face of the subject is cleaned for 30 minutes, a VISIA skin image analyzer is used for shooting a face image, observing the face texture and red differentiation value of the face image, and performing control analysis before and after treatment; effects on sebum secretion: the test site is smeared with the tested sample, and a syringe is used for taking 2.0+/-0.1 mg/cm ² Uniformly smearing a sample on a tested area by using a latex fingerstall, and recording the smearing amount; measuring sebum amount of a sample smearing area by using a sebum measuring instrument, measuring each area for 3 times, taking an average value, and then calculating sebum improvement condition; effects on percutaneous moisture loss (Transepidermal waterloss, TEWL): the test site is smeared with the tested sample, and a syringe is used for taking 2.0+/-0.1 mg/cm ² Uniformly smearing a sample on a tested area by using a latex fingerstall, and recording the smearing amount; measuring the TEWL of a sample smearing area by using a percutaneous moisture loss detector, measuring each area for 3 times, taking an average value, and then calculating the improvement condition of the TEWL; effect on skin moisture content: the test site was smeared with a test sample , and 2.0.+ -. 0.1mg/cm was taken out by syringe ² Uniformly smearing a sample on a tested area by using a latex fingerstall, and recording the smearing amount; measuring the skin moisture content of the sample smearing area by using a skin moisture content detector, measuring each area for 3 times, taking an average value, and then calculating the improvement condition of the skin moisture content; effect on pH: the test site is smeared with the tested sample, and a syringe is used for taking 2.0+/-0.1 mg/cm ² Samples were taken using latex finger cuffsUniformly coating the coating on a tested area, and recording the coating amount; measuring the pH of the smearing area of the sample by using a pH detector, measuring each area for 3 times, taking an average value, and then calculating the pH improvement condition;

(7) And (3) result judgment: before and after the product is used, the tested sample is judged to have a soothing effect according to improvement conditions of facial texture, red differentiation value, sebum, TEWL, epidermis water content, pH and the like of the test area.

The anti-wrinkle effect test method comprises the following steps:

(1) Testing environmental conditions: the temperature is 20-22 ℃ and the relative humidity is 40-60%, and real-time dynamic monitoring is carried out;

(2) Sample use requirements: the method is used according to the relevant requirements of parts, modes, frequency, notes and the like;

(3) The number of subjects and the requirements: the number of effective cases is not less than 30 cases, and the number of effective cases is 30-60 years old;

(4) And (3) measuring: testing according to the instructions of the instrument; the left and right faces are randomly divided into a sample smearing side and a comparison side, and the measuring areas are left and right outer corners;

(5) And (3) calculating: carrying out descriptive statistics on the measured values of the target analysis positions of the wrinkles in the sample smearing side and the control side, wherein the descriptive statistics comprise data calculation such as quantity, mean value, standard deviation, minimum value, median value, maximum value and the like;

(6) And (3) result judgment: the difference in the measured values on the smear side of the sample was significantly different from that on the control side, indicating that the tested sample had anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Specifically, according to the composition ratios of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2 below, anhydrous cosmetic compositions were prepared by a uniform preparation process in order to ensure that performance evaluation was not affected by process conditions, and performance evaluation of moisturizing effect, soothing effect, and anti-wrinkle effect as described above was performed, wherein the preparation process employed in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2 comprises the steps of: firstly, mixing and stirring the phase A at the rotating speed of 300rpm/min for 5 minutes until the material is uniform; mixing and stirring the phase B at the rotating speed of 100rpm/min for 5 minutes until the material body is uniform, slowly dripping the phase B into the phase A at the high-speed stirring at the rotating speed of 500rpm/min, and continuously stirring for 30 minutes until the material body is uniform; mixing and stirring the phase C at the rotating speed of 100rpm/min for 5 minutes until the material is completely dissolved, adding the phase A+B, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 200rom/min until the material is yellow semitransparent gel.

Wherein the compositions of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 were formulated as shown in Table 1:

TABLE 1 composition proportions of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2

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The results of evaluating the properties of the compositions of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 are as follows:

example 1: the polyglycerol-10 stearate has the double characteristics of hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, forms a main gel phase with glycerol and caprylic/capric triglyceride to form golden yellow transparent gel appearance, and has the moisturizing effect improved by 48% with reference to fig. 1, 33% with reference to fig. 2 and 3, and 35% with reference to fig. 4 and 5.

Example 2: the ratio of glycerol to caprylic/capric triglyceride affects the morphology of the gel, resulting in a decrease in viscosity, with 37% improvement in moisturizing effect, 26% improvement in soothing effect, and 21% improvement in anti-wrinkling effect, as shown in fig. 6, 7 and 8, and 9 and 10.

Example 3: the caprylic/capric triglyceride is too low, so that the lipophilic force is reduced, the moisturizing effect is improved by 31% with reference to fig. 11, the soothing effect is improved by 23% with reference to fig. 12 and 13, and the anti-wrinkle effect is improved by 11% with reference to fig. 14 and 15.

Comparative example 1: the water is added to replace part of the grease matrix, the prepared cosmetic composition cannot be in a complete material state, and the original gel system is damaged by the added water. Referring to fig. 16, the moisturizing effect can be improved by 15%, referring to fig. 17 and 18, the soothing effect can be improved by 15%, and referring to fig. 19 and 20, the anti-wrinkle effect can be improved by 8%. From this, it was found that the moisturizing effect, the soothing effect and the anti-wrinkle effect were inferior to those of examples one to three, that is, the actual effect by the synergistic effect of vanillyl butyl ether and sodium fuller hyaluronate was reduced after the addition of water.

Comparative example 2: without adding vanilla butyl ether, the moisturizing effect can be improved by 27%, the soothing effect can be improved by 19% with reference to fig. 22 and 23, and the anti-wrinkle effect can be improved by 7% with reference to fig. 24 and 25, with reference to fig. 21. From this, it was found that sodium fullerenic hyaluronate can exert a certain moisturizing, soothing and anti-wrinkle effect even without adding vanillyl butyl ether, but moisturizing, soothing and anti-wrinkle effects of the anhydrous cosmetic compositions of examples one to three to which vanillyl butyl ether was added were better.

Comparative example 3: the moisturizing effect of the non-added fullerene sodium hyaluronate can be improved by 21%, the soothing effect can be reduced by 15% by referring to fig. 27 and 28, and the anti-wrinkle effect can be reduced by 17% by referring to fig. 29 and 30. Therefore, under the condition that only the vanillyl butyl ether is added and the fullerene sodium hyaluronate is not added, other functional components in the anhydrous cosmetic composition can permeate into the skin under the action of the vanillyl butyl ether to generate a certain moisturizing effect, but the vanillyl butyl ether can increase the sensitivity of the skin, so that the soothing effect and the anti-wrinkle effect of the skin are reduced.

The foregoing description is only of the preferred embodiments of the present application and is not intended to limit the scope of the claims, and all equivalent structures or equivalent flow modifications that may be made using the teachings of the present application, or directly or indirectly applied in other related fields, are included within the scope of the claims.

Claims (10)

1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises, in mass percent:

65-80% of grease matrix;

0.5-10% of vanilla butyl ether;

3-5% of fullerene sodium hyaluronate;

15-20% of other functional components.

2. The anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the lipid matrix comprises glycerol and/or caprylic/capric triglyceride.

3. The anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein the glycerin is present in the anhydrous cosmetic composition in an amount of 35 to 80% by mass; the mass percentage of the caprylic/capric triglyceride in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 0-30%.

4. The anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the other functional ingredient comprises at least one of a royal jelly extract, honey, propolis extract, and aloe extract.

5. The anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 4 wherein the royal jelly extract is 2 to 4% by mass of the anhydrous cosmetic composition; the mass percentage of the honey in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 2-4%; the mass percentage of the propolis extract in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is 2-4%; the aloe extract accounts for 5-15% of the anhydrous cosmetic composition by mass.

6. The anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 further comprising from 5 to 10% of a nonionic emulsifier.

7. The anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 6 wherein the nonionic emulsifier comprises polyglycerol-10 stearate.

8. The anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 further comprising 0.5% of a preservative.

9. The anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 8 wherein the preservative comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone.

10. A process for preparing an anhydrous cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises:

weighing a grease matrix, a stabilizer, vanilla butyl ether, fullerene sodium hyaluronate and at least one other functional component according to a preset raw material ratio;

uniformly mixing part of the grease matrix with the stabilizer to obtain a first mixture;

uniformly mixing vanilla butyl ether with the rest of the grease matrix to obtain a second mixture;

dropwise adding the second mixture into the first mixture under the stirring of 300-1000rpm/min, and uniformly stirring to obtain a third mixture;

and adding the other functional components of the fullerene sodium hyaluronate into the third mixture under the stirring state, and stirring until the mixture is yellow semitransparent gel-like to obtain the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

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