CN112370408B

CN112370408B - Composition with high moisturizing effect and application thereof in cosmetics

Info

Publication number: CN112370408B
Application number: CN202011474032.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 杨雨琪; 陈庆生; 胡兴国; 胡根华
Original assignee: Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2020-12-14
Filing date: 2020-12-14
Publication date: 2022-09-13
Anticipated expiration: 2040-12-14
Also published as: CN112370408A

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition with high moisturizing effect and application thereof in cosmetics, wherein the composition with high moisturizing effect comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-15 parts of shea butter, 11-15 parts of ceramide, 1-15 parts of phospholipid and 5-20 parts of rice fermentation filtrate. The composition with high moisturizing effect consists of the shea butter, the ceramide 1, the phospholipid and the rice fermentation filtrate in a specific mass ratio, and is high in safety, mild and low in sensitization; the composition has definite components and stable properties, and can be flexibly mixed with the skin care product without limit of the dosage of the composition added in the skin care product, thereby providing the long-acting moisturizing effect for the skin. Compared with the common moisturizing skin care products, the product added with the composition has obviously improved safety, efficacy and long-acting moisturizing capability.

Description

Composition with high-power moisturizing effect and application of composition in cosmetics

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition with high moisturizing effect and application thereof in cosmetics.

Background

The skin is the natural coat of human body, and is composed of three major parts of the outermost epidermis, the dermis and the innermost subcutaneous tissue, and the epidermis is divided into the cuticle, the stratum lucidum, the granular layer, the spinous layer and the basal layer. The moisture content of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, determines the degree of moisturization of the skin, and normally, the stratum corneum should have a moisture content of about 10%, and below this level, this indicates that the skin is in a water-deficient state, at which time the skin becomes dry, dull in color, or even exuviated. And the moisture-keeping component (humectant) is added into the cosmetics, so that the skin can be effectively protected from dryness and tightness.

The humectant is used for simulating a natural moisturizing system consisting of oil, water and natural moisturizing factors in human skin, and has the functions of delaying water loss, increasing dermal-epidermal water permeation, temporarily protecting the skin, reducing damage and promoting a repair process. From the viewpoint of moisture balance, not only is it necessary for the skin to retain moisture and oil, but also natural moisturizing factors are required to maintain the water absorption and moisture retention of the skin. From the cosmetic perspective, the skin moisture retention and oil retention are promoted, and the humectant is artificially added, so that the skin has better moisture retention and oil retention functions, which is the most important task of the cosmetics for skin care, and therefore, the addition of the humectant is particularly important in the formula preparation of the cosmetics.

The humectant can improve skin dryness, increase skin water content, and increase skin elasticity. The moisturizer has the function of forming a film on the skin surface to seal moisture in the skin to prevent moisture from evaporating, and simultaneously, the moisturizer does not obstruct the absorption of moisture in the air by the skin, so that the proper moisture of the skin is maintained, and urea and allantoin are the most commonly used moisturizers of skin care cosmetics. For example, CN103181862A discloses a compound moisturizing agent, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 30-50% of glycerin, 15-30% of water, 12-15% of sodium lactate, 12-15% of sodium PCA, 3-10% of allantoin, 2-5% of beta-glucan, 510.5-12.5% of polyquaternium and 0-1% of sodium hyaluronate, and the moisturizer is a powerful moisturizer.

The moisturizer can prevent skin damage and promote repair of damaged skin, and researches show that the moisturizer not only can increase the moisture content of the skin and improve the dryness condition, but also has a protection effect on external stimulation, can prevent normal skin damage and has a treatment effect on damaged skin.

Since there are many kinds of moisturizers and the moisturizing effect and moisturizing duration of each kind of moisturizer are different, and on the other hand, more and more consumers are pursuing cosmetics rich in natural ingredients, it is very meaningful to develop a moisturizer which has high safety, strong efficacy and long-term moisturizing capability.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a composition with high moisturizing effect and application thereof in cosmetics.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition with high moisturizing efficacy, wherein the composition with high moisturizing efficacy comprises, by weight: 5-15 parts of shea butter, 11-15 parts of ceramide, 1-15 parts of phospholipid and 5-20 parts of rice fermentation filtrate.

The composition with high moisturizing effect consists of the shea butter, the ceramide 1, the phospholipid and the rice fermentation filtrate in a specific mass ratio, and is high in safety, mild and low in sensitization; the composition has definite components and stable properties, and can be flexibly mixed with the skin care product without limit of the dosage of the composition added in the skin care product, thereby providing the long-acting moisturizing effect for the skin. Compared with the common moisturizing skin care products, the safety, the efficacy and the long-acting moisturizing capacity of the product added with the composition are remarkably improved.

The parts by weight of the shea butter can be 5 parts, 6 parts, 7 parts, 8 parts, 9 parts, 10 parts, 11 parts, 12 parts, 13 parts, 14 parts or 15 parts and the like.

The weight portion of the ceramide 1 can be 1 portion, 2 portions, 3 portions, 5 portions, 8 portions, 10 portions, 11 portions, 12 portions, 13 portions, 14 portions or 15 portions, etc.

The phospholipid can be 5 parts, 6 parts, 7 parts, 8 parts, 9 parts, 10 parts, 11 parts, 12 parts, 13 parts, 14 parts or 15 parts by weight.

The weight portion of the rice fermentation filtrate can be 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 18 or 20.

Other specific values in the above ranges can be selected, and are not described in detail herein.

Preferably, the phospholipid comprises any one or a combination of at least two of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, cephalin, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylglycerol or phosphatidylinositol. The combination of at least two of the above-mentioned compounds, such as the combination of lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin, the selection of hydrogenated lecithin and cephalin, etc., can be selected in any other combination manner, and will not be described in detail herein. Lecithin and/or hydrogenated lecithin are preferred.

Preferably, the rice fermentation filtrate is a yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate.

Further preferably, the composition with high moisturizing effect comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of shea butter, 11-10 parts of ceramide, 1-8 parts of phospholipid and 5-18 parts of rice fermentation filtrate.

When the raw materials in the composition with high moisturizing effect are combined according to the mass ratio, the composition has a more remarkable moisturizing effect.

Further preferably, the composition with high moisturizing effect comprises the following components in parts by weight: 7-10 parts of shea butter, 11-5 parts of ceramide, 3-8 parts of phospholipid and 10-15 parts of rice fermentation filtrate.

When the raw materials in the composition with high moisturizing effect are combined according to the mass ratio, the most obvious moisturizing effect is achieved.

The preparation method of the composition with high moisturizing effect provided by the invention is to simply and uniformly mix the raw materials at normal temperature.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a use of the composition with high moisturizing effect as described above in the preparation of cosmetics.

Preferably, the composition with high moisturizing effect is added in the cosmetic in an amount of 2-10%, for example, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, or 10%, and other specific values in the above numerical range can be selected, and will not be described in detail herein. Preferably 3 to 5%.

In a third aspect, the invention provides a moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing effect, and the moisturizing emulsion is prepared from a raw material comprising a phase A, a phase B and a phase C;

the phase A comprises deionized water, glycerol, betaine, biogel-1, 3-propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, hydrogenated lecithin, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and cetearyl olive oleate/sorbitan olive oleate;

the phase B comprises the composition with high moisturizing effect as claimed in any one of claims 1-5, white chinlon oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil;

the phase C comprises 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone.

In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a preparation method of a moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing efficacy as described above, the preparation method comprising the steps of:

(1) mixing the phase A raw materials, and uniformly dispersing; mixing the raw materials of the phase B, and uniformly dispersing;

(2) mixing the uniformly dispersed phase A raw material and phase B raw material, and homogenizing and emulsifying;

(3) and (3) mixing the emulsion obtained in the step (2) with the phase C raw material, uniformly dispersing, vacuumizing and defoaming to obtain the moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing effect.

Preferably, the dispersion in step (1) is performed at a temperature of 75-85 ℃, for example, 75 ℃, 77 ℃, 78 ℃, 80 ℃, 82 ℃, 84 ℃ or 85 ℃, and other specific values in the above numerical range can be selected, and are not described in detail herein.

Preferably, the emulsification in step (2) is performed at a temperature of 75-85 ℃, for example, 75 ℃, 77 ℃, 78 ℃, 80 ℃, 82 ℃, 84 ℃ or 85 ℃, and other specific values in the above numerical range can be selected, and are not described in detail herein.

Preferably, after the emulsification in step (2) is completed, the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃, for example, 40 ℃, 42 ℃, 43 ℃, 45 ℃, 47 ℃, 48 ℃ or 50 ℃, and other specific values in the above numerical range can be selected, and then step (3) is performed.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

Detailed Description

To further illustrate the technical means and effects of the present invention, the following further describes the technical solution of the present invention with reference to the preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the scope of the embodiments.

The Shea Butter resins referred to in the following examples, comparative examples, application examples and comparative application examples were purchased from Douglas, model 959569 shear button stable (refined); ceramide 1 is purchased from Woodful and has the model number of SK-INFLUXVMB; hydrogenated lecithin is available from heliochemistry, and is phospholipid S-10; the rice ferment filtrate is obtained from Angel Yeast Inc. under model number of yeast/rice ferment filtrate FC 01. Other materials are also commercially available.

Example 1

The embodiment provides a composition with high moisturizing effect, which is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 8 parts of shea butter, 13 parts of ceramide, 5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin and 13 parts of rice fermentation filtrate. Mixing the above materials at 25 deg.C, and dispersing.

Example 2

The embodiment provides a composition with high moisturizing effect, which is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 7 parts of shea butter, 11 parts of ceramide, 3 parts of hydrogenated lecithin and 10 parts of rice fermentation filtrate. Mixing the above materials at 25 deg.C, and dispersing.

Example 3

The embodiment provides a composition with high moisturizing effect, which is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 10 parts of shea butter, 15 parts of ceramide, 8 parts of lecithin and 15 parts of rice fermentation filtrate. Mixing the above materials at 25 deg.C, and dispersing.

Example 4

The embodiment provides a composition with high moisturizing effect, which is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 10 parts of shea butter, 110 parts of ceramide, 8 parts of lecithin and 18 parts of rice fermentation filtrate. Mixing the above materials at 25 deg.C, and dispersing.

Example 5

The embodiment provides a composition with high moisturizing effect, which is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of shea butter, 115 parts of ceramide, 15 parts of lecithin and 20 parts of rice fermentation filtrate. Mixing the above materials at 25 deg.C, and dispersing.

Example 6

This example provides a composition with high moisturizing effect, and the formulation of the composition is different from that of example 1 only in that hydrogenated lecithin is equally replaced by cephalin, and other components and amounts are kept unchanged. The preparation method is as in example 1.

Comparative example 1

This comparative example provides a composition whose formulation differs from that of example 1 only in that the shea butter component is not included and the amount of reduction is increased to the remaining three components in the ratio of parts of the remaining three components. The preparation method is as in example 1.

Comparative example 2

This comparative example provides a composition whose formulation differs from that of example 1 only in that ceramide 1 is not contained, and the amount of the decrease is added to the remaining three components at the ratio of the parts of the remaining three components. The preparation method is as in example 1.

Comparative example 3

This comparative example provides a composition whose formulation differs from that of example 1 only in that no hydrogenated lecithin is contained and the amount of the decrease is added to the remaining three components in the ratio of the parts of the remaining three components. The preparation method is as in example 1.

Comparative example 4

This comparative example provides a composition whose formulation differs from that of example 1 only in that no rice fermentation filtrate is contained and the amount of reduction is added to the remaining three components at the ratio of the parts of the remaining three components. The preparation method is as in example 1.

Application example 1

The application example provides a moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing effect, and the moisturizing emulsion comprises the following components in percentage by mass of 100 percent:

phase A: 3.5% of glycerol, 0.3% of betaine, 10.4% of bioglycan gum, 3% of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.4% of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.3% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 0.4% of cetearyl olive oleate/sorbitan olive oleate and the balance of deionized water;

phase B: 3.5% of the composition with high moisturizing effect prepared in example 1, 0.3% of white Potentilla seed oil, 0.3% of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil and 0.09% of essence;

and C phase: 0.7 percent of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.6 percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.18 percent of aminomethyl propanol.

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing the phase A raw materials, and uniformly dispersing at 80 ℃; mixing the raw materials of phase B, and uniformly dispersing at 80 ℃;

(2) mixing the uniformly dispersed A-phase raw material and B-phase raw material, homogenizing and emulsifying at 80 ℃, and then cooling to 45 ℃;

(3) and (3) mixing the emulsion obtained in the step (2) with the phase C raw material, uniformly dispersing at 45 ℃, and vacuumizing and defoaming to obtain the moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing effect.

Application examples 2 to 6

The application example provides five kinds of moisturizing emulsions with high moisturizing effect, and the formula composition of the moisturizing emulsion is different from that of the moisturizing emulsion in the application example 1 only in that the composition with high moisturizing effect prepared in the example 1 in the phase B is replaced by the compositions with high moisturizing effect prepared in the examples 2-6 respectively, and other components and content are kept unchanged. The preparation method is consistent with application example 1.

Comparative application examples 1 to 4

Comparative application examples 1 to 4 provide four kinds of moisturizing emulsions whose formulation compositions are different from those of application example 1 only in that the compositions having high moisturizing effects prepared in example 1 in phase B were respectively replaced with the compositions prepared in comparative examples 1 to 4, and other components and contents were maintained. The preparation method is consistent with application example 1.

Comparative application examples 5 to 8

Comparative application examples 5 to 8 provide four moisturizing emulsions whose formulation compositions differ from application example 1 only in that the composition having high moisturizing efficacy prepared in example 1 in phase B was replaced with an equal amount of a single shea butter, an equal amount of a single ceramide 1, an equal amount of a single hydrogenated lecithin, an equal amount of a single rice fermentation filtrate, respectively, and the other components and contents were maintained unchanged. The preparation method is consistent with application example 1.

Comparative application example 9

Comparative application example 9 provides a moisturizing emulsion whose formulation composition differs from application example 1 only in that the composition prepared in example 1 having high moisturizing effect lacks phase B, and other components and contents remain unchanged. The preparation method is consistent with application example 1.

Evaluation test:

(1) moisturizing effect test (CK water test probe)

The moisture content of the skin is determined by both internal and external factors, the stratum corneum of the skin has a large variation in its ability to retain water, and the moisture content can vary from 10% to 60%, most notably the respiration of the skin in perspiration and the composition of the water mixture in the skin. External factors including temperature, humidity, drugs, cosmetics, etc., can determine and change the moisture content of the skin. The moisture content of the skin affects the formation of a water and oil mixed film on the skin surface, and this protective film is very important for preventing skin aging. It is therefore useful to quantitatively test the moisture content of the skin and the amount of change after a certain period of care. In the process of developing cosmetics, the efficacy of moisturizing cosmetics can be evaluated by testing the numerical change of the moisture content of the skin, so that whether the protective function of the skin is damaged or not can be found in time.

The skin Moisture test uses the world recognized Corneometer capacitance method, the results of which are expressed by set Moisture Measurement Values (MMV).

Testing an instrument: skin moisture Corneometer test probe manufactured by Courage + Khazaka, Germany (CK, Germany).

The test method comprises the following steps: 75 males and 75 females between 18-45 years of age were selected and randomly divided into 15 groups (5 males and 5 females per group) and were tested with the products of application examples 1-6 and comparative application examples 1-9, respectively. Any product (cosmetics, external medicines or internal health care products) can not be used 2-3 days before the test of the tested part. Before the test, the testee needs to clean the inner sides of the forearms of both hands uniformly, and the cleaning method is to wipe the forearms clean by using dry facial tissues. The inner sides of the forearms of both hands of the testee are marked with measurement areas, the area of a test area is 5cm by 5cm, the same arm can simultaneously mark a plurality of areas, and the interval between each test area is 2 cm.

Before formal test, the people need to sit in a constant temperature and humidity room with the temperature of 20-22 ℃ and the humidity of 40-60% for 30min, and can not drink water and beverage. The forearm was exposed and left in the test condition, and left relaxed.

During the test, a Corneometer is used for measuring blank values of the tested part, and 5 points are fixedly measured in each area according to a certain sequence to obtain an average value. The specialist then takes care of applying the sample and starts timing. And respectively measuring the change of the MMV value at each time according to the experimental design, subtracting a blank value from the average value detected each time to obtain the change of the MMV value in the time period, and removing the blank value to obtain the increase rate of the MMV value.

The skin moisture content increase rate calculation formula is as follows:

skin moisture content increase rate% _t -MMV ₀ )/MMV ₀ ×100％

In the formula: MMV ₀ - - -skin MMV before application

MMV _t - - -skin MMV t period after application

The results are shown in table 1:

TABLE 1

As can be seen from the data in Table 1: compared with a comparative application example, the moisture-preserving emulsion added with the composition has a significantly higher moisture content change rate, and the moisture content change rate of the composition added with the composition is slightly higher than that of a moisture-preserving emulsion without the addition of the high-power moisture-preserving composition by adding a single component or adding a composition lacking any one component, but the effect of the composition is far less than that of the moisture-preserving emulsion added with the composition, which indicates that the high-power moisture-preserving effect can achieve an obvious effect by requiring specific scientific combination and proportioning.

(2) Product safety test (Patch test)

30 females and 30 males are selected according to the inclusion criteria of the testee to participate in the test, are randomly divided into 6 groups (5 males and 5 females in each group), and are respectively subjected to the product trial of application examples 1-6. A0.025 mL sample was taken with a syringe and placed in a chamber of a spot test tape, and the spot test tape with the test substance was immediately applied to the normal skin of the left forearm of the subject with a floor sensitive tape while the tape was gently pressed with the palm of the hand to apply it uniformly to the skin. The test sites were marked for observation, and were applied once every 24 hours, and then examined after half an hour after removal of the patch, according to the terms of the CTFA guidelines. The patch test was performed 6 times in total, and on the sixth day after completion of the skin application, additional examination was performed to observe delayed reactions. The data is compared using the last examination result.

The criteria for the skin irritation tests are shown in the following table:

the results are shown in table 2:

TABLE 2

Number of times of skin sticking	Application example 1	Application example 2	Application example 3	Application example 4	Application example 5	Application example 6
							1	0	0	0	0	0	0
2	0	0	0	0	0	0
							3	0	0	0	0	0	0
4	0	0	0	0	0	0
							5	0	0	0	0	0	0
6	0	0	0	0	0	0
							Day 6 after completion	0	0	0	0	0	0
Is totaled	0	0	0	0	0	0

From the results of table 2, it can be seen that: the composition with high moisturizing effect has no stimulation to skin and no positive reaction, and the composition is very safe and mild.

The applicant states that the present invention is illustrated by the above examples, but the present invention is not limited to the above examples, i.e. it does not mean that the present invention must be implemented by the above examples. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitutions of the raw materials of the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., are within the scope and disclosure of the present invention.

The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail, however, the present invention is not limited to the specific details of the above embodiments, and various simple modifications may be made to the technical solution of the present invention within the technical idea of the present invention, and these simple modifications are within the protective scope of the present invention.

It should be noted that the various technical features described in the above embodiments can be combined in any suitable manner without contradiction, and the invention is not described in any way for the possible combinations in order to avoid unnecessary repetition.

Claims

1. The moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing effect is characterized in that the moisturizing emulsion is prepared from a raw material comprising an A phase, a B phase and a C phase;

the phase B comprises a composition with high moisturizing effect, white chinaberry seed oil and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil;

the phase C comprises 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone;

the composition with high-power moisturizing effect comprises, by weight, 5-10 parts of shea butter, 11-10 parts of ceramide, 1-8 parts of phospholipid and 5-18 parts of yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate;

the phospholipid comprises any one of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin or cephalin;

the addition amount of the composition with high moisturizing effect in the moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing effect is 3.5%.

2. The moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing effect as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition with high moisturizing effect comprises, by weight, 7-10 parts of shea butter, 11-5 parts of ceramide, 3-8 parts of phospholipid, and 10-15 parts of rice fermentation filtrate.

3. The preparation method of moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing efficacy according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

(3) mixing the emulsion obtained in the step (2) with the phase C raw material, uniformly dispersing, vacuumizing and defoaming to obtain the moisturizing emulsion with high moisturizing effect;

the dispersion of step (1) is carried out at a temperature of 80 ℃;

the emulsification in the step (2) is carried out at the temperature of 80 ℃;

and (3) after the emulsification in the step (2) is finished, reducing the temperature to 45 ℃, and then performing the step (3).