CN115487083A - 虾青素化妆料组合物的制造方法 - Google Patents
虾青素化妆料组合物的制造方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明是关于虾青素化妆料组合物的制造方法。本发明利用超声波前处理技术及高压乳化,可以解决虾青素的难溶性及稳定性问题,也可以制造低粘度剂型或高含量的虾青素化妆料组合物,还可以混合艾地苯醌或辅酶Q10,制造虾青素化材料组合物。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种虾青素化妆料组合物的制造方法,本发明是关于改善难溶性及稳定性问题的虾青素化妆料组合物的制造方法的发明。还包括了艾地苯醌,辅酶Q10(CoQ 10)制作的虾青素化妆料组合物的制造方法。
背景技术
虾青素(虾青素;3,3’-二羟基-β,β-胡萝卜素-4、4“-二酮)广泛分布在包括虾、螃蟹等甲壳类在内的水生动物中,一种非维生素A原的类胡萝卜素。实际上,人类摄取的许多食品中存在的朱红色或浅橙色色素-虾青素是天然生产的,在海上及水上动物中存在最广泛,特别是虾、红色鲷鱼类、三文鱼和龙虾等海洋动物组织中。另外,煮虾或者螃蟹的话会变红,是因为色素蛋白质分解,会出现红色的虾青素的颜色。
由化学式C40H52O4组成的虾青素,抑制正常的好氧代谢过程中产生的活性氧导致细胞内DNA、蛋白质、脂质等损伤、细胞及组织老化和致癌的反应,强大的生物抗酸化剂,具有抑制生成强大的自由基(hydroxy or peroxy radical) 的作用。因此,防止脂质过氧化(peroxidation)及氧化损伤,是保护LDL胆固醇、细胞膜及组织的物质。虾青素的抗氧化能力比维生素E的α-比番茄红素 (tocoperol)活性高100到500倍,比β-比胡萝卜素高10倍以上的抗氧化功能。除此之外,还具有美白、改善皱纹及保湿效果。
研究含有虾青素的皮肤抗衰老或改善皱纹用化妆料组合物尽管利用了虾青素的功能优势,但由于虾青素的难溶性、不稳定性、光、热、湿度的脆弱性和即使溶解后,也很容易重新结晶的特性,导致其很容易被水溶化或褪色,失去原来的功效,很难用于制造化妆料,因此需要对此进行改善。
在制造虾青素化妆料组合物时,可以添加艾地苯醌(Idebenone),作为辅酶Q(ubiquinone)的抗酸化剂,在参与细胞呼吸的器官线粒体中改善氧化,起到保护细胞氧化压力的作用。最近发现了艾地苯醌对皮肤也有效果的事实,用于改善皮肤保湿和抑制老化、胶原蛋白合成及改善皱纹等用途。据悉,辅酶 Q10比维生素C和E对皮肤的抗氧化剂效果更优秀。
但是,艾地苯醌具有醌基、饱和炭化水素基和羟基等多种作用基,很难稳定,皮肤渗透也不容易。黄色的结晶性粉状艾地苯醌的极性度(Polarity)很高,原料本身也很容易暴露在光、空气、水、热等外部环境中,颜色容易发生变化,保存性差等非常不稳定,特别是与水接触时,这种不稳定性会加倍。
即使溶解了艾地苯醌,形成了乳化粒子,使用以前的乳化技术和乳化剂的话,剂型的稳定性会下降,皮肤渗透也不容易,而且艾地苯醌和细胞脂质的相容性不好,很难传达到皮肤中。因此,目前需要提高艾地苯醌的稳定性和皮肤吸收能力的技术。
辅酶Q10(CoQ10)被称为泛醌(ubiquinone)、泛癸利酮(ubidarenone),在人体细胞内实际存在,成为能量代谢的主要酵素,用于防止光老化或皮肤色素异常的强力抗酸化剂,抑制皮肤黑色素的形成,有改善皮肤色素异常或色素沉着的效果。但是,辅酶Q10也是和上述两种成分相同的难溶性物质类,在制造化妆料组合物时,需要稳定辅酶Q10,增加皮肤渗透率的技术。
如前所述,虾青素、艾地苯醌、辅酶Q10等难溶性原料,一般乳化后粒子会产生析出现象,虽然是很有功效的原料,但是一般的乳化剂产品使用量较少,很难适用于低粘度和透明的剂型,虽然有适用于高粘度的不透明剂型的方法,但是因为细微的再结晶和析出物而诱发皮肤问题。
因此,本发明旨在改善这些问题,并提出稳定生产效率较高的虾青素、艾地苯醌、辅酶Q10等的技术和利用该技术制造化妆料组合物的方法。
另一方面,在先行技术文献中,韩国公开专利公报10-2020-0132584中,酮酸分散涂层在表面,干燥后形成粉末形态的稳定化的虾青素纳米粒子制造方法,韩国注册专利公报10-2203360中分别记载了包括虾青素在内的纳米脂质体组合物.
如上所述,以前介绍过采用单纯乳化或纳米转化来稳定虾青素的技术,但是在装置的控制过程中,由于虾青素敏感的性质,温度和工艺控制困难,不良率高,有可能发生机械热的稳定性下降。
发明内容
本发明提供改善虾青素、艾地苯醌及辅酶Q10的难溶性及稳定性问题的虾青素化妆料组合物的制造方法及上述方法制造的化妆料组合物。
另外解决的技术问题是采用超声波(Sonication)和高压乳化方式,提供解决难溶性及稳定性问题的虾青素化妆料组合物的制造方法及用上述方法制作的化妆料组合物。
为了解决上述技术问题,本发明提供了如下的技术方案:
根据本发明的课题解决手段,
虾青素化妆料组合物,包括以下组分:
辛酸癸酸甘油三酯(Caprlic/CapricTriglyceride),辛基十二醇(octyldodecanol),或者油棕(ElaeisGuinensis(Palm)Oil)等脂溶性溶剂 10~15重量份
虾青素,艾地苯醌,辅酶Q10及其他类胡萝卜素类原料0.5~3重量份;所述的其他类胡萝卜素原料为β胡萝卜素、叶黄素或番茄红中的任意一种
肌酸(creatine),0.01~1重量份。
制备方法为:
S1、在60~65℃下投入均质机,以3500±350RPM搅拌10分钟,得到混合物1
S2、将混合物1在50~60℃以100±10W,进行10~13分钟的超声波第一次处理,得到混合物2;
S3、将乳化剂5~10重量份投入均质机,温度保持50~60℃,用2500~3500 RPM搅拌5~7分钟,得到混合物3;
S4、将混合物3在50~60℃、100±10W,进行12~18分钟的超声波第二次处理,得到混合物4;
S5、在混合物4中加入纯净水10~30重量份及聚醚多元醇30~50重量份的混合物,放入均质机加热到55~65℃,用1000±100RPM搅拌2~5分钟,得到混合物5;
S6、将混合物5冷却到40~50℃后,投入1,2-己二醇0.5~2重量份,利用均质机用2500~3500RPM搅拌1分钟,得到混合物6;
S7、将混合物6在25~35℃的温度下,1200±100Bar的压力,90目过滤的条件下,进行第一次高压乳化,形成脂质体化的虾青素,得到混合物7;
S8、将混合物8在25~35℃的温度下,1200±100Bar的压力,90目过滤的条件下,进行二次高压乳化。
所述的乳化剂,由氢化卵磷脂(Hydrogenated Lecithin)、蔗糖棕榈酸酯(Sucrose Palmitate)中的任意一种组成。
优选的,S8中高压乳化次数随着虾青素的浓度而增加。
本发明所达到的有益效果是:利用本发明的超声波(sonication)前处理技术及高压油化,解决了虾青素的难溶性及稳定性问题,也可以制造出低粘度的剂型或高含量的虾青素化妆料组合物,仅如此,还可以混合艾地苯醌或辅酶 Q10,制造虾青素化妆料组合物。
附图说明
附图用来提供对本发明的进一步理解,并且构成说明书的一部分,与本发明的实施例一起用于解释本发明,并不构成对本发明的限制。在附图中:
图1是本发明流程示意图;
图2是各样本析出物的照片。
具体实施方式
以下结合附图对本发明的优选实施例进行说明,应当理解,此处所描述的优选实施例仅用于说明和解释本发明,并不用于限定本发明。
配比1
含有虾青素的化妆料组合物的制造方法
配比2
本实验是为了验证超声波和高压乳化工程的最佳实施次数及实施次数的效果而设计的,如下表所示,用配比2的配比制造试验1-9的组合物,调整了超声波和高压乳化的次数
试验1~3没有进行超声波,试验1、4、7没有进行高压乳化,其他样品将超声波和高压乳化的次数在1~2次内组合实施
表1
如表2所示,为了试验1~9的性能评价,实验室用肉眼观察并确认了稳定度、皮肤吸收率、粒子大小减少、析出物减少程度。析出物如图2所示。
表2
稳定度 | 皮肤吸收率 | 粒子大小减少 | 析出物减少 | |
试料1 | △ | △ | △ | △ |
试料2 | △ | △ | ○ | △ |
试料3 | △ | ○ | ○ | △ |
试料4 | △ | △ | △ | △ |
试料5 | △ | ○ | ○ | △ |
试料6 | ○ | △ | ○ | ○ |
试料7 | ○ | △ | △ | ◎ |
试料8 | ◎ | ○ | ○ | ◎ |
试料9 | ◎ | ◎ | ◎ | ◎ |
◎:良好 ○:一般 △:不满意
研究结果表明,试验8、9在稳定度、皮肤吸收率、粒子大小减少及析出物减少的评价上,比其他的实验例要优秀。
另外,试验9的工艺确认了最优秀的结果,试验9的制造方法在虾青素化妆料组合物的稳定度、皮肤吸收率、粒子大小减少、析出物减少方面会更优秀。
难溶性物质重量及高压乳化实施次数之间的相关性验证
[实验方法]
表3
如表5所示,为了实验例1-9的性能评价,用肉眼观察并确认了皮肤吸收率及粒子大小减少的程度.
表4
皮肤吸收率 | 粒子大小减少 | |
实验例1 | ○ | ◎ |
实验例2 | ◎ | ◎ |
实验例3 | ◎ | ◎ |
实验例4 | △ | △ |
实验例5 | ◎ | ○ |
实验例6 | ◎ | ◎ |
实验例7 | △ | △ |
实验例8 | △ | △ |
实验例9 | ◎ | ○ |
◎:良好 ○:一般 △:不满意
从上述表4可以看出,在皮肤吸收率及粒子大小减少的评估中,实验例1 到3、5、6和9比其他实验例有更好的效果。
虾青素的重量越大,就越验证了高压乳化的实施增加。另外,不仅是虾青素,还有艾地苯醌,辅酶Q10及其他类胡萝卜素原料(β胡萝卜素、叶黄素、番茄红素)的难溶性物质的重量增加的话,高压乳化的施行越多,在皮肤吸收率和粒子大小减少方面会越优秀。
皮肤吸收度的检测方法:
水洗后,从完全干燥的受试者的手背上取出50mg样品,在3cm2的区域内像一般皮肤外用产品一样的压力下并用食指和中指涂抹并滚动50次,而后评价剩余的油脂感和残留感。
*40岁以下男性受试者5名,40岁以下女性受试者5名,总共10名受试者为实验对象,经评估后,选择出良好、一般、不足三个项目中选择最多的项目进行评价确认。
粒径大小
实验方法
实验机器:Photal OTSUKA ELECTRONICS社Zeta-Potential& Particle sizeAnalyzer ELSZ-2000ZS
光源:Semiconductor laser半导体激光器
■测定范围:0.01nm~10μm
■实验标准:ISO 22412
前处理:将0.2g样品稀释至20g纯净水和100倍再稀释
■超声波预处理:无
粒子大小 | ◎良好 | ○一般 | △不足 | 实施例2中,未经过超声波和高压乳化的产品 |
平均粒径(nm) | <150 | 150-300 | 300< | 2,400 |
◎ 良好:在显微镜下观察时,不会观察到沉淀物.
○ 一般:在显微镜下观察沉淀物,但其大小很小.
△ 不足:观察到沉淀物,并且它们的大小很大或具有针状.
拍摄信息
光学机器名:Olympus BX-43;
倍率:X400;
模型:P.C Mode;
样本:测试后1个月的样品。
最后应说明的是:以上所述仅为本发明的优选实施例而已,并不用于限制本发明,尽管参照前述实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明,对于本领域的技术人员来说,其依然可以对前述各实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改,或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换。凡在本发明的精神和原则之内,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (6)
1.虾青素化妆料组合物,其特征在于,包括以下组分:
脂溶性溶剂10~15重量份,所述的脂溶性溶剂为辛酸癸酸甘油三酯、辛基十二醇或油棕中的任意一种或多种;
虾青素,艾地苯醌,辅酶Q10及其他类胡萝卜素类共计0.5~3重量份;所述的其他类胡萝卜素原料为β胡萝卜素、叶黄素或番茄红中的任意一种;
肌酸0.01~1重量份。
2.如权利要求1所述的虾青素化妆料组合物,其特征在于,虾青素、艾地苯醌和辅酶Q10:其他类胡萝卜素的质量比为10:1,虾青素、艾地苯醌和辅酶Q10的重量比为2:1:1。
3.如权利要求1所述的虾青素化妆料组合物,其特征在于,包括以下组分:
脂溶性溶剂15重量份,虾青素,艾地苯醌,辅酶Q10及其他类胡萝卜素类共计2重量份;肌酸0.5重量份。
4.权利要求1所述的虾青素化妆料组合物的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
S1、在60~65℃下投入均质机,以3500 ±350RPM搅拌10分钟,得到混合物1
S2、将混合物1在50~60℃以100±10W,进行10~13分钟的超声波第一次处理,得到混合物2;
S3、将乳化剂5~10重量份投入均质机,温度保持50~60℃,用2500~3500 RPM搅拌5~7分钟,得到混合物3;
S4、将混合物3在50~60℃、100±10W,进行12~18分钟的超声波第二次处理,得到混合物4;
S5、在混合物4中加入纯净水10~30重量份及聚醚多元醇30~50重量份的混合物,放入均质机加热到55~65℃,用1000±100RPM搅拌2~5分钟,得到混合物5;
S6、将混合物5冷却到40~50℃后,投入1,2-己二醇0.5~2重量份,利用均质机用2500~3500RPM搅拌1分钟,得到混合物6;
S7、将混合物6在25~35℃的温度下,1200±100Bar的压力,过滤的条件下,进行第一次高压乳化,形成脂质体化的虾青素,得到混合物7;
S8、将混合物8在25~35℃的温度下,1200Bar的压力,90目过滤的条件下,进行二次高压乳化。
5.如权利要求4所述的方法,其特征在于,乳化剂为氢化卵磷脂或蔗糖棕榈酸酯。
6.如权利要求4所述的方法,其特征在于,在第二次高压乳化后根据虾青素的浓度可增加乳化次数。
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