CN115463048B

CN115463048B - Acne-removing and skin-refreshing essence and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN115463048B
Application number: CN202211138111.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 肖亚杰; 邹六均
Original assignee: Guangzhou La Doris Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou La Doris Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-09-19
Filing date: 2022-09-19
Publication date: 2023-06-13
Anticipated expiration: 2042-09-19
Also published as: CN115463048A

Abstract

The application relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to an anti-acne and rejuvenating essence and a preparation method thereof. An anti-acne and skin-refreshing essence comprises the following components: chelating agent, thickener, humectant A, pH regulator, skin conditioner A, humectant B, antioxidant A, quaternary ammonium salt-73, solvent, humectant C, solubilizer, skin conditioner B, plant extract, myristyl hexapeptide-5, emulsifier, kava leaf/root/stem extract, and water. The acne-removing cream has the advantage of improving the acne-removing effect.

Description

Acne-removing and skin-refreshing essence and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The application relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to an anti-acne and rejuvenating essence and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Vaccinia is a common skin problem, and is medically collectively known as acne. Acne is a pilo-sebaceous gland disease caused by the combined action of a plurality of factors, and causes are mainly four of the following: 1) Increased sebum secretion; 2) Excessive keratinization of the pilosebaceous canal; 3) The proliferation amount of the acne corynebacterium pumilus in the sebaceous glands is increased; 4) Inflammation under the action of inflammatory mediators, etc.

Acne is usually found on the face, and is mostly caused by non-inflammatory skin lesions, including blackheads, whiteheads, etc., and then inflammatory skin lesions, such as superficial papules, pustules, or further deep cysts, nodules, etc., are developed.

Acne not only brings strong discomfort to patients, but also affects the appearance of the patients under the society with increasingly high pursuits of appearance at present, and brings unnecessary anxiety and depression. So the current requirements for acne removal are higher and higher.

The acne-removing products on the market generally contain a large amount of bactericidal and exfoliating components, which, although having a certain effect on acne treatment, can cause irritation to the application site. Therefore, there is still a need for improvement.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to improve the acne removal effect, the application provides an acne removal and rejuvenation essence and a preparation method thereof.

In a first aspect, the present application provides an anti-acne and rejuvenating essence, which adopts the following technical scheme:

an anti-acne and skin-refreshing essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

0.01-0.08% chelating agent, 0.2-0.8% thickener, 2-7% humectant A;

0-1.8% ph modifier; 1-2.5% skin conditioning agent a;

1-3% of humectant B and 0.1-0.5% of antioxidant A;

0.002-0.01% quaternary ammonium salt-73,6-9% solvent, 5-8% humectant C,0-0.5% solubilizer, 0.8-1.8% skin conditioner B,0.8-2% plant extract, 0.0001-0.0005% myristoyl hexapeptide-5,0.01-0.05% emulsifier, 0.02-0.08% kava leaf/root/stem extract;

water was replenished to 100%.

By adopting the technical scheme, under the joint coordination of the quaternary ammonium salt-73, the myristoyl hexapeptide-5 and the kava leaf/root/stem extract, firstly, the large and small molecules penetrate downwards into different layers of the skin, and particularly can penetrate into deep layers. In the infiltration process, the bacterial strain reacts with propionibacterium acnes rapidly to destroy the cell structure, thereby playing a bactericidal effect. And secondly, the cooperation of the three components effectively inhibits the activities of microorganisms and bacteria, can reduce the number of inflammatory signals sent by inflammatory mediators to a certain extent, inhibit the transmission of the inflammatory signals, and reduce the damage to the skin caused by excessive release of the signals, thereby realizing acne removal.

After finishing face cleaning and basic moisturizing, the patient uniformly smears the essence on the face, and the essence rapidly permeates into different layers of the skin and acts on the propionibacteria to inhibit the propionibacteria. The essence has the effect of inhibiting the propionibacteria, so that the number of bacteria which are required to attack the propionibacteria in the body is reduced to a certain extent, and the duration and the intensity of inflammation are reduced. In addition, when the essence acts on the face, the synthesis of collagen and elastin of dermis layers of the skin is effectively stimulated, metabolism of the skin is accelerated, and the skin is also beneficial to resisting bacterial invasion. The method realizes the mild acne removal and skin color brightening.

Preferably, the skin conditioner A is betaine salicylate, and the mass ratio of the quaternary ammonium salt-73 to the betaine salicylate is 1: (150-200).

The betaine salicylate has the effects of removing acnes by salicylic acid, promoting the dissolution and stripping of horny layers, reducing irritation, keeping moisture and moistening, and promoting skin metabolism.

By adopting the technical scheme, the quaternary ammonium salt-73 and the betaine salicylate are matched with each other in a specific proportion, so that the stability of the betaine salicylate in a system can be effectively improved, and the inhibition effect of the quaternary ammonium salt-73 on propionibacterium acnes can be improved.

Preferably, the plant extract is one or more of Cactus aculeatus stem extract, herba Houttuyniae extract, flos Matricariae Chamomillae extract, herba Portulacae extract, radix Scutellariae extract, and cortex moutan extract.

The plant extract belongs to a mild and natural raw material, and can be added into the essence to achieve good effects of moisturizing and brightening skin.

Preferably, the mass ratio of the cactus stem extract, the cordate houttuynia extract, the golden chamomile extract, the purslane extract, the baical skullcap root extract and the tree peony root bark extract is 1:1:1.4:1.4:1:1.

By adopting the technical scheme, the plant extracts of specific types are selected and matched in a specific proportion, so that the speed of penetrating the essence into different layers of skin can be further improved.

When inflammatory acne grows on the face, the face is inherently prone to itching due to the action of inflammatory factors. Under the combination of the specific plant extracts, the skin-friendly and comfortable skin-friendly facial mask has itching relieving and soothing effects on the face.

Preferably, the plant extract comprises houttuynia cordata extract, and the mass ratio of kava leaf/root/stem extract to houttuynia cordata extract is 1: (3-6).

By adopting the technical scheme, under the joint coordination of the cordate houttuynia extract and the kava leaf/root/stem extract, the stimulation effect on the expression level of macrophage inflammatory protein is further improved, and meanwhile, the way of regulating signal transduction is also enhanced, so that the inflammatory reaction is lightened.

Preferably, the humectant C comprises butylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, octanoyl hydroxamic acid.

Patients with acne are in a relatively sensitive stage of the face due to inflammation. Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, select the specific humectant of use, not only can play the effect of moisturizing, can also play anticorrosive, antibacterial effect, be favorable to keeping under the condition as gentle as possible, extension essence's save time.

Preferably, the chelating agent is one or more of EDTA, EDTA-2Na, EDTA-4 Na.

Preferably, the humectant A, the humectant B and the humectant C are one or more of glycerolyether-26, 1, 3-propylene glycol, butanediol, ethylhexyl glycerol and octanoyl hydroxamic acid.

Preferably, the thickener is one or more of hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, carbomer and xanthan gum.

Preferably, the pH regulator is one or more of arginine, citric acid and lactic acid.

Preferably, the skin conditioner A and the skin conditioner B are one or more of betaine salicylate, salicylic acid and menthoxypropanediol.

Preferably, the antioxidant is one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, tocopherol and butylated hydroxyanisole.

Preferably, the solvent is one or more of propylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, glycerol, butanediol, and ethylhexyl glycerol.

Preferably, the solubilizer is one or more of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ether.

Preferably, the emulsifier is one or more of polysorbate-80, lecithin, and lanolin.

In a second aspect, the application provides a preparation method of an anti-acne and rejuvenating essence, which adopts the following technical scheme: a preparation method of an anti-acne and skin-refreshing essence comprises the following steps:

mixing 55-65% of water, chelating agent, thickener and humectant A, stirring to disperse, adding 15-25% of pH regulator and 0.5-2% of water, stirring to dissolve, adding humectant B and antioxidant, stirring to uniformity,

adding skin conditioner A, the rest pH regulator and water accounting for 3-6% of the total mass of the essence, mixing and stirring to uniformity, adding all the rest raw materials, mixing and stirring to uniformity, and obtaining the finished product.

By adopting the technical scheme, various raw materials are added according to a certain input sequence, so that the raw materials have a more sufficient mixing effect, and the uniform and fine essence is obtained, so that the skin-care cream has a better skin-care feel.

Preferably, water, chelating agent, thickening agent and humectant A accounting for 55-65% of the total mass of the essence are taken and stirred to adjust the temperature to 80-90 ℃; after uniform dispersion, cooling to 40-50 ℃, and continuously adding other raw materials.

By adopting the technical scheme, the materials can be mixed at a specific temperature, so that the properties of various raw materials can be fully exerted, and the acne removing effect of the essence can be improved.

In summary, the present application has the following beneficial effects:

1. after finishing face cleaning and basic moisturizing, the patient uniformly smears the essence on the face, and the essence rapidly permeates into different layers of the skin and acts on the propionibacteria to inhibit the propionibacteria. The essence has the effect of inhibiting the propionibacteria, so that the number of bacteria which are required to attack the propionibacteria in the body is reduced to a certain extent, and the duration and the intensity of inflammation are reduced. In addition, when the essence acts on the face, the synthesis of collagen and elastin of dermis layers of the skin is effectively stimulated, metabolism of the skin is accelerated, and the skin is also beneficial to resisting bacterial invasion. The method realizes the mild acne removal and skin color brightening.

2. The quaternary ammonium salt-73 and the betaine salicylate are matched with each other in a specific proportion, so that the stability of the betaine salicylate in a system can be effectively improved, and meanwhile, the inhibition effect of the quaternary ammonium salt-73 on propionibacterium acnes can be improved.

3. Under the joint coordination of the cordate houttuynia extract and the kava leaf/root/stem extract, the stimulation effect on the expression level of macrophage inflammatory protein is further improved, and meanwhile, the way of regulating signal transduction is also enhanced, so that the inflammatory reaction is lightened.

Detailed Description

The present application is described in further detail below with reference to examples.

The plant extracts used in the following examples and comparative examples were all commercially available dry products, and after purchase, the floating dust was washed with water and dried before being put into service, and the remaining raw materials were all commercially available products.

Examples

Example 1

An anti-acne and skin-refreshing essence comprises the following components: chelating agent, thickener, humectant A, pH regulator, skin conditioner A, humectant B, antioxidant A, quaternary ammonium salt-73, solvent, humectant C, solubilizer, skin conditioner B, plant extract, antioxidant B, myristoyl hexapeptide-5, emulsifier, kava leaf/root/stem extract, and water.

Wherein the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.

The thickener is hydroxyethyl cellulose and carbomer.

Humectant A is glycerolyether-26, 1, 3-propylene glycol.

The pH regulator is arginine.

The skin conditioner A is betaine salicylate.

Humectant B is 1, 3-propylene glycol.

The antioxidant A and the antioxidant B are p-hydroxyacetophenone.

The solvent is butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, glycerol, propylene glycol, and ethylhexyl glycerol.

The humectant C is butanediol, ethylhexyl glycerol, octanoyl hydroxamic acid.

The solubilizer is PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

The skin conditioner B is salicylic acid and dextrin.

The plant extract is radix et caulis Opuntiae Dillenii stem extract, herba Houttuyniae extract, flos Matricariae Chamomillae extract, herba Portulacae extract, radix Scutellariae extract, and cortex moutan extract.

The emulsifier is polysorbate-80.

The specific amounts are shown in Table 1.

The application also discloses a preparation method of the acne-removing and skin-refreshing essence, which comprises the following steps:

step 1): adding water, chelating agent, thickener and humectant A accounting for 60.39% of the total mass of the essence into an emulsifying pot, kneading, heating to 85deg.C under stirring, dispersing, and cooling.

Step 2): cooling to 45 ℃, then continuously adding 20% of pH regulator and 1% of water of the total mass of the essence into the emulsifying pot, mixing and stirring until the mixture is dissolved.

Step 3): keeping the temperature unchanged, continuously adding the humectant B and the antioxidant A into the emulsifying pot, and stirring until the mixture is uniform.

Step 4): adding the skin conditioning agent A, the rest pH regulator and water accounting for 5% of the total mass of the essence into the emulsifying pot, and mixing and stirring until uniform.

Step 5): and adding all the rest raw materials into a stirring pot, mixing, and stirring uniformly to obtain a finished product.

Examples 2 to 3

The essential liquid for eliminating acne and refreshing skin is different from the essential liquid in the embodiment 1 in the selection and the use amount of the raw materials, and the details are shown in the table 1.

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Example 4

The anti-acne and skin-refreshing essence is different from the example 1 in that the mass ratio of the quaternary ammonium salt-73 to the betaine salicylate is 1:150, i.e., the amount of quaternary ammonium salt-73 used was 0.007kg, the amount of betaine salicylate used was 1.05kg, and the amount of water used was changed accordingly. See table 2 for details.

Example 5

The anti-acne and skin-refreshing essence is different from the example 1 in that the mass ratio of the quaternary ammonium salt-73 to the betaine salicylate is 1:300, i.e. the amount of quaternary ammonium salt-73 used was 0.007kg, the amount of betaine salicylate used was 2.1kg, and the amount of water used was changed accordingly. See table 2 for details.

Example 6

An anti-acne and skin-refreshing essence is different from the example 1 in that the plant extract is a Cactus stem extract.

Example 7

An anti-acne and skin-refreshing essence is different from example 1 in that the plant extract is aloe extract.

Example 8

The essential liquid for removing acnes and refreshing the skin is different from the essential liquid in the embodiment 1 in that the mass ratio of the kava leaf/root/stem extract to the cordate houttuynia extract is 1:6. namely, the usage amount of kava leaf/root/stem extract is 0.06kg, the usage amount of cordate houttuynia extract is 0.36kg, and the usage amount of water is changed correspondingly. See table 2 for details.

Example 9

The essential liquid for removing acnes and refreshing the skin is different from the essential liquid in the embodiment 1 in that the mass ratio of the kava leaf/root/stem extract to the cordate houttuynia extract is 1:1. namely, the usage amount of kava leaf/root/stem extract is 0.06kg, the usage amount of cordate houttuynia extract is 0.06kg, and the usage amount of water is changed correspondingly. See table 2 for details.

TABLE 2

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Comparative example

Comparative example 1

An anti-acne and rejuvenating essence is different from example 1 in that quaternary ammonium salt-73 is replaced by equal mass of fusidic acid.

Comparative example 2

An anti-acne and rejuvenating essence differs from example 1 in that myristoyl hexapeptide-5 is replaced with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 of equal mass.

Comparative example 3

An anti-acne and rejuvenating essence is different from example 1 in that kava leaf/root/stem extract is replaced with an aloe extract of equal quality.

Comparative example 4

The essential liquid for removing and whitening the acne is different from the essential liquid in the embodiment 1 in that the usage amount of the quaternary ammonium salt-73 is 0.03kg, the usage amount of the myristoyl hexapeptide-5 is 0.002kg, and the usage amount of the kava leaf/root/stem extract is 0.005kg.

Comparative example 5

The essential liquid for eliminating acne and refreshing face is different from the essential liquid in the embodiment 1 in that the temperature in the emulsifying pot is adjusted to be 85 ℃, and then all the raw materials are put into the emulsifying pot together and stirred uniformly, so that the finished product is obtained.

Performance test

1. Clinical detection:

detecting an object: 28 acne patients aged 20-35 years were randomized and the acne patients were ranked as grade ii for acne. The subject excludes pregnant or intended pregnant subjects, and those who use immunosuppressants or antihistamines; patients who used other products for the treatment of facial acne within one month; patients with severe systemic diseases and those who are currently being administered systematically or who are sensitive to drug allergies.

Detecting a sample: examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 5.

The detection process comprises the following steps: the products with similar functions are deactivated 7 days before the start of the test. After the detection is started, facial cleaning is carried out in the morning and evening every day, the toner is sprayed, then 2ml of sample is used, the face is uniformly smeared, and the face is continuously used for 28 days.

1) Facial microbial activity:

images of the face of the test subject were collected by the VISIA, and porphyrin values of the face were analyzed using image analysis software, and the values on day 1 and day 28 were recorded.

2) Skin gloss:

the face of the subject was measured using a skin luster meter, and the values on days 1 and 28 were recorded.

3) User experience: on day 28, the user was recorded as to whether the face was tight, uncomfortable, itchy, reddish and shiny, and vaccinia was apparent after using the sample.

2. And (3) in-vitro detection: the propionibacterium acnes plates after isolated passages were diluted to 0.5 mahalanobis units in EP tubes with thioglycolate liquid medium. Then, 50. Mu.l of the bacterial liquid was placed in another EP tube, and 450. Mu.l of thioglycolate liquid medium was added thereto and mixed well. Mu.l of the bacterial liquid was aspirated and the concentration was adjusted to 1X 10 on a plate with 20ml of thioglycolate liquid medium ⁴ -10 ⁵ CFU/ml, a dilution was obtained.

The dilution was adjusted to a concentration of 100g/l, 50g/l, 25g/l, 12.5g/l with a micro broth dilution method, and 100. Mu.l per tube of test solution.

600. Mu.l of the test sample was placed in an EP tube with a pipette and diluted with 600. Mu.l of thioglycolate liquid medium to obtain a diluted sample solution.

Mixing 50 μl of diluted sample solution with 100 μl of detection solution, sealing the sealing film, placing in an anaerobic bag, culturing in a 37 ℃ incubator for 48h, and observing the culture solution with naked eyes. The clarification shows antibacterial effect, and the concentration of the maximum detection liquid capable of completely inhibiting the growth of propionibacterium acnes is recorded.

The above detection results are shown in Table 3.

TABLE 3 Table 3

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As can be seen from the comparison of the test data of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 in Table 3, the test subjects showed a certain reduction in the porphyrin value on the face and a certain improvement in the glossiness of the skin after using the samples of comparative examples 1 to 3. However, the comparative examples 1 to 3 were far less varied than example 1. After the sample of the example 1 is used by the detection object, the porphyrin value of the face is greatly reduced, the skin glossiness is obviously improved, and no bad use experience exists in the process of using the example 1. The method has the advantages that under the joint coordination of quaternary ammonium salt-73, myristoyl hexapeptide-5 and kava leaf/root/stem extracts, the activities of propionibacteria and the like can be effectively inhibited, so that acne removal is realized; and the combination of the three is beneficial to accelerating skin metabolism and brightening skin color.

And then combining the detection data of comparative examples 4-5 to compare, the three materials need to be mixed and added in a specific sequence and a specific method matching formula under a specific proportion relation, so that the ideal effect can be exerted.

As can be seen from comparison of the test data of examples 1 and 4 with the test data of example 5 in Table 3, the test subjects were observed to have a slightly lower facial porphyrin value than the test subjects of example 5 and the skin was also shinier. The use ratio of the quaternary ammonium salt-73 and the betaine salicylate is adjusted within a certain range, so that the performance of the quaternary ammonium salt-73 and the betaine salicylate can be fully exerted.

As can be seen from comparison of the test data of example 1 and examples 6-7 in Table 3, when the plant extracts are blended in a specific type and specific ratio, the penetration of the essence into the skin is promoted, and thus the antibacterial effect is improved.

As can be seen from comparison of the test data of examples 1 and 8 and example 9 in Table 3, the use ratio of herba Houttuyniae extract and kava leaf/root/stem extract is further defined, which is beneficial to enhancing the mediated signal transduction, thereby having stronger antibacterial effect and reducing the porphyrin value of the face.

The present embodiment is merely illustrative of the present application and is not intended to be limiting, and those skilled in the art, after having read the present specification, may make modifications to the present embodiment without creative contribution as required, but is protected by patent laws within the scope of the claims of the present application.

Claims

1. The acne-removing and skin-refreshing essence is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

01-0.08% chelating agent, 0.2-0.8% thickener, 2-7% humectant A;

0-1.8% ph modifier; 1-2.5% skin conditioning agent a;

1-3% of humectant B and 0.1-0.5% of antioxidant;

002-0.01% quaternary ammonium salt-73,6-9% solvent, 5-8% humectant C,0-0.5% solubilizer, 0.8-1.8% skin conditioner B,0.8-2% plant extract, 0.0001-0.0005% myristoyl hexapeptide-5,0.01-0.05% emulsifier, 0.02-0.08% kava leaf/root/stem extract;

water is replenished to 100%;

the skin conditioner A is betaine salicylate, and the mass ratio of the quaternary ammonium salt-73 to the betaine salicylate is 1: (150-200);

the humectant A, the humectant B and the humectant C are one or more of glycereth-26, 1, 3-propylene glycol, butanediol, ethylhexyl glycerol and octanoyl hydroxamic acid;

the skin conditioner B is one or more of salicylic acid, dextrin and menthoxypropanediol;

the plant extract is one or more of Cactus stem extract, herba Houttuyniae extract, flos Matricariae Chamomillae extract, herba Portulacae extract, radix Scutellariae extract, and cortex moutan extract.

2. The acne-removing and rejuvenating essence according to claim 1, wherein the acne-removing and rejuvenating essence is characterized in that: the mass ratio of the cactus stem extract, the cordate houttuynia extract, the golden chamomile extract, the purslane extract, the radix scutellariae extract and the tree peony root bark extract is 1:1:1.4:1.4:1:1.

3. The acne-removing and rejuvenating essence according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the acne-removing and rejuvenating essence is characterized in that: the plant extract comprises houttuynia cordata extract, and the mass ratio of kava leaf/root/stem extract to houttuynia cordata extract is 1: (3-6).

4. The acne-removing and rejuvenating essence according to claim 1, wherein the acne-removing and rejuvenating essence is characterized in that: the humectant C comprises butanediol, ethylhexyl glycerol and octanoyl hydroxamic acid.

5. A method for preparing an anti-acne and rejuvenating essence based on any one of claims 1-4, comprising the following steps:

taking water accounting for 55-65% of the total mass of the essence, chelating agent, thickener and humectant A, uniformly stirring until dispersing,

then adding 15-25% of pH regulator and 0.5-2% of water by total mass of the essence, mixing and stirring until dissolving,

then adding the humectant B and the antioxidant, stirring until uniform,

adding skin conditioner A, the rest pH regulator and water accounting for 3-6% of the total mass of the essence, mixing and stirring until uniform,

and adding and mixing all the rest raw materials, and stirring uniformly to obtain a finished product.

6. The method for preparing the acne-removing and skin-refreshing essence according to claim 5, which is characterized in that: taking water accounting for 55-65% of the total mass of the essence, chelating agent, thickening agent and humectant A, and stirring and adjusting the temperature to 80-90 ℃; after uniform dispersion, cooling to 40-50 ℃, and continuously adding other raw materials.