CN115209870B - 化妆品组合物 - Google Patents
化妆品组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN115209870B CN115209870B CN202180021789.7A CN202180021789A CN115209870B CN 115209870 B CN115209870 B CN 115209870B CN 202180021789 A CN202180021789 A CN 202180021789A CN 115209870 B CN115209870 B CN 115209870B
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- silicone
- cosmetic composition
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- oil
- acid
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- 125000001483 monosaccharide substituent group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract 4
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- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 15
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- 125000002791 glucosyl group Chemical group C1([C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O1)CO)* 0.000 claims description 14
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Abstract
[课题]本发明的目的在于提供化妆品组合物,其为含有水溶性硅酮改性多糖类和水的化妆品组合物,其可配合到乳液的水相中,改善油腻或发粘等使用感,具有耐水性和耐油性,具有持妆性,在水中不脱落但在温水中可脱落。[解决手段]化妆品组合物,其特征在于,含有下述(A)成分和(B)成分:(A)相对于化妆品组合物的总质量为0.05~20质量%的硅酮改性多糖,其特征为具有与多糖的单糖单元中的羟基键合的用通式(1)表示的1个以上的硅酮残基,该硅酮残基的平均键合数为每1摩尔单糖单元0.001摩尔以上且0.1摩尔以下;和(B)相对于化妆品组合物的总质量为5~99质量%的水。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及含有水溶性的硅酮改性多糖和水的化妆品组合物。
背景技术
以往,研究了使硅酮改性多糖类而得到的硅酮改性多糖类(专利文献1、2)。例如,专利文献1中记载了具备纤维素和硅酮两者的性质的对水稳定的含硅氧烷的纤维素衍生物。专利文献2中记载了兼具普鲁兰多糖和硅酮化合物两者的性质的稳定的含硅氧烷的普鲁兰多糖。另外,还研究了将硅酮改性多糖类配合到化妆品中(专利文献3-6)。专利文献3中记载了防晒化妆品,其特征在于,将特定的硅酮化多糖化合物与有机紫外线吸收剂一起并用。专利文献4中记载了含有硅酮化多糖化合物的油包水型乳化化妆品。专利文献6中记载了含有硅酮化普鲁兰多糖的眼用化妆品组合物。如专利文献3~6所述,含有硅酮改性多糖类的化妆品的耐水性、耐油性高,使用感也优异。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1:日本特开平6-145201号公报,
专利文献2:日本特开平8-134103号公报,
专利文献3:日本特开平10-29921号公报,
专利文献4:日本特开2001-278729号公报,
专利文献5:国际公开第2012/133293号公报,
专利文献6:日本特开2017-218413号公报。
发明内容
发明所要解决的课题
但是,以往的硅酮改性多糖类中硅酮的比例高。这样的硅酮改性多糖类由于主要配合到油相中,所以可配合到油性化妆品中。因此,存在配合的限制,存在具有油性化妆品特有的油腻、发粘等问题。另外,由于耐水性过高,所以存在若不使用专用的卸妆油就无法使其脱落的问题。另一方面,由于未改性的多糖类没有耐水性,所以存在化妆因汗或水分而脱落或崩塌的问题。因此,需要可配合到水相中的耐水性和耐油性优异的硅酮改性多糖类。另外,作为最近围绕化妆品原料的环境,从可持续的观点出发,对天然来源的原料或在自然界中降解的具有生物降解性的原料的需求不断增长。
本发明是鉴于上述问题而完成的,其目的在于提供化妆品组合物,其是含有水溶性硅酮改性多糖类和水的化妆品组合物,可配合到乳液的水相中,可改善油腻或发粘等使用感。此外,本发明的目的还在于提供具有耐水性和耐油性、持妆性优异、并且在水中不脱落但在温水中可脱落的化妆品组合物。
解决课题的手段
本发明人为了改善化妆品的使用感或使用性而进行了深入研究,结果发现,硅酮改性率得到控制的硅酮改性多糖的生物降解性优异,具有良好的防水性和防油性,该硅酮改性多糖可配合到水性化妆品中,从而提供水嫩感觉的化妆品组合物。即,本发明发现,通过含有具有至少1个用下述通式(1)表示的硅酮残基、并且硅酮残基的平均键合数为每1摩尔单糖单元0.1摩尔以下的硅酮改性多糖,可提供不油腻或发粘、具有耐水性和耐油性、持妆性优异、在水中不脱落但在温水中可脱落的化妆品组合物,从而完成了本发明。
本化妆品组合物的使用感良好,不仅不发粘或油腻,而且持久性优异。另外,本发明人发现,具有这样的低改性率的水溶性的硅酮改性多糖成为水的增稠剂,具有使化妆品稳定的效果。
即,本发明提供化妆品组合物,其特征在于,含有下述(A)成分和(B)成分。
化妆品组合物,其特征在于,含有下述(A)成分和(B)成分:
(A)相对于化妆品组合物的总质量为0.05~20质量%的硅酮改性多糖,其特征为具有与多糖的单糖单元中的羟基键合的用下述通式(1)表示的1个以上的硅酮残基,该硅酮残基的平均键合数为每1摩尔单糖单元0.001摩尔以上且0.1摩尔以下,
[化学式1]
式中,R1、R2、R3和R4相互独立地为选自碳原子数1~8的烷基、碳原子数3~8的环烷基、碳原子数1~8的氟取代烷基、碳原子数6~12的芳基和碳原子数7~12的芳烷基的基团,n为1~10的整数,且a为0~3的整数;和
(B)相对于化妆品组合物的总质量为5~99质量%的水。
发明的效果
本发明的化妆品组合物可提供不油腻或发粘,具有耐水性、耐油性,持妆性优异,在水中不脱落但在温水中可脱落的化妆品组合物。特别是本发明提供乳液形态的化妆品组合物,提供适合作为隔离霜、粉底液、防晒乳液和防晒霜等的化妆品组合物。
附图说明
[图1] 表示合成例1的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖、未改性普鲁兰多糖和比较合成例1的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖的生物降解度(%)的曲线图。
具体实施方式
以下,对本发明进行更详细的说明。
本发明提供化妆品组合物,其特征在于,含有下述(A)成分和(B)成分。
化妆品组合物,其特征在于,含有下述(A)成分和(B)成分:
(A)相对于化妆品组合物的总质量为0.05~20质量%的硅酮改性多糖,其特征为具有与多糖的单糖单元中的羟基键合的用下述通式(1)表示的1个以上的硅酮残基,该硅酮残基的平均键合数为每1摩尔单糖单元0.001摩尔以上且0.1摩尔以下,
[化学式2]
式中,R1、R2、R3和R4相互独立地为选自碳原子数1~8的烷基、碳原子数3~8的环烷基、碳原子数1~8的氟取代烷基、碳原子数6~12的芳基和碳原子数7~12的芳烷基的基团,n为1~10的整数,且a为0~3的整数;和
(B)相对于化妆品组合物的总质量为5~99质量%的水。
上述硅酮改性多糖类为水溶性,可包含在乳液的水相中。
(A)成分为硅酮改性多糖,其特征为具有与多糖的单糖单元中的羟基键合的用下述通式(1)表示的1个以上的硅酮残基,该硅酮残基的平均键合数(以下有时称为硅酮改性率)为每1摩尔单糖单元0.001摩尔以上且0.1摩尔以下。
[化学式3]
式中,R1、R2、R3和R4相互独立地为选自碳原子数1~8的烷基、碳原子数3~8的环烷基、碳原子数1~8的氟取代烷基和碳原子数6~12的芳基、碳原子数7~12的芳烷基的基团,n为1~10的整数,且a为0~3的整数。
作为上述多糖,可使用公知的各种多糖类。例如可列举出普鲁兰多糖、纤维素、甲壳素、壳聚糖、淀粉、甘露聚糖、透明质酸以及它们的衍生物。例如可列举出甲基化、乙基化、环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷等环氧烷加成、酰化、阳离子化的衍生物等。其中优选为普鲁兰多糖和纤维素,更优选为普鲁兰多糖。多糖的重均分子量优选为1,000~5,000,000,进一步优选为30,000~400,000。该重均分子量例如通过凝胶渗透色谱法(GPC)分析(溶剂:DMF,普鲁兰多糖换算,25℃)进行测定。
在上述通式(1)中,R1、R2、R3和R4相互独立地为选自碳原子数1~8的烷基、碳原子数3~8的环烷基、碳原子数1~8的氟取代烷基和碳原子数6~12的芳基、碳原子数7~12的芳烷基的基团。例如,可列举出甲基、乙基、丙基、丁基、戊基、己基、庚基和辛基等烷基,环戊基和环己基等环烷基,苯基和甲苯基等芳基,苄基和苯乙基等芳烷基,三氟丙基和十七氟癸基等氟取代烷基等。优选为碳原子数1~8的烷基或苯基,更优选为甲基。
n为1~10的整数,优选为2~8的整数,更优选为3~6的整数,最优选为3。a为0~3的整数。
在该硅酮改性多糖中,硅酮残基的平均键合数为每1摩尔单糖单元0.1摩尔以下。优选为低于0.1摩尔,更优选为0.09摩尔以下,进一步优选为0.08摩尔以下。若该每1摩尔单糖的硅酮残基的平均键合数超过上述上限值,则在将上述硅酮改性多糖制成化妆品组合物时难以具有充分的防水、防油性,有无法配合到水性化妆品中之虞。另外,有无法得到水嫩感觉的化妆品组合物之虞。下限值没有特别限制,例如只要为0.001摩尔以上即可,优选为0.005摩尔以上,更优选为0.01摩尔以上。硅酮残基的平均键合数可通过用反应产物的1H-NMR等分析来求得。
如上所述,更优选的方式是其中多糖为普鲁兰多糖的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖。在这种情况下,硅酮残基的平均键合数为每1摩尔葡萄糖单元0.1摩尔以下,优选为低于0.1摩尔,更优选为0.09摩尔以下,进一步优选为0.08摩尔以下。如上所述,下限值只要为0.001摩尔以上即可,优选为0.005摩尔以上,更优选为0.01摩尔以上。
用上述通式(1)表示的硅酮改性多糖可通过上述多糖所具有的羟基与含有异氰酸酯基的硅酮的氨基甲酸酯键生成反应得到。含有异氰酸酯基的硅酮用下式表示。
[化学式4]
R1~R4、n和a如上所述。
例如可列举出用下式表示的化合物。
[化学式5]
如上所述,本发明的硅酮改性多糖可通过多糖化合物的羟基与含有异氰酸酯基的硅酮的氨基甲酸酯键生成反应制造。在这样的反应中,从提高反应效率或控制反应的观点出发,优选使用溶剂。作为反应所使用的溶剂,可列举出醋酸丁酯等酯类,甲乙酮、甲基异丁基酮、环己酮等酮类,甲苯、二甲苯等芳族烃类,二丁醚、四氢呋喃、二噁烷等醚类,N,N-二甲基甲酰胺、N-甲基吡咯烷酮等酰胺类等,它们可单独使用,也可将2种以上混合。
关于多糖与异氰酸酯化合物的配比,以异氰酸酯相对于每个单糖(例如葡萄糖)的羟基的摩尔比为0.001~0.12、优选为0.005~0.10为宜。由此,可得到上述硅酮改性率、即硅酮残基的平均键合数为每1摩尔单糖(优选为葡萄糖)单元0.1摩尔以下的硅酮改性多糖(优选为硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖)。
氨基甲酸酯键生成反应条件根据使用的溶剂的种类而不同,通常为20~150℃下1~10小时。异氰酸酯化合物的添加方法可以是依次滴加、混合滴加或一次性添加,作为催化剂,可添加三乙胺、三亚乙基二胺、N-甲基吗啉等胺类,二月桂酸二正丁基锡和油酸亚锡等有机金属化合物之类的用于形成氨基甲酸酯键的公知的催化剂。反应结束后,通过进行清洗和干燥,可得到目标糖化合物。
例如在多糖为普鲁兰多糖的情况下,(A)硅酮改性多糖可用下式表示。
[化学式6]
在上式中,PL为普鲁兰多糖的残基,硅酮与普鲁兰多糖所具有的葡萄糖单元中的羟基键合。x是使硅酮残基的平均键合数为上述范围的值。
本发明的化妆品组合物以含有上述(A)硅酮改性多糖和(B)水为特征。该化妆品组合物中的(A)成分的配合量以化妆品组合物整体的0.05~20质量%、优选0.1~10质量%的范围为宜。(B)水的量以化妆品组合物整体的5~99质量%、优选10~90质量%的范围为宜。
本发明的(A)硅酮改性多糖具有生物降解性。作为生物降解性试验可使用OECD指南中记载的方法或ISO及JIS标准中示出的方法。例如可列举出OECD301A~F、OECD302、OECD306、ISO14855、ISO14851、ISO17556,在本发明中用OECD301F中记载的方法评价生物降解性。
本发明的(A)硅酮改性多糖具有水溶性,即具有溶解于水的性质。因此,本发明的化妆品组合物可形成在水相中含有硅酮改性多糖类的乳液。特别是本发明的硅酮改性多糖在室温(25±5℃)以下在水中溶胀,在30℃以上、例如30~80℃左右的温水中溶解于水。另外,即使暂时溶解于水后冷却至室温(25±5℃)左右,也可保持溶解于水的状态。因此,可提供在室温以下的水中不脱落,而可用温水冲洗掉的化妆品。
本发明的化妆品组合物中还以进一步含有选自丙二醇、三亚甲基二醇、二丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、甲基丙二醇、戊二醇、甘油、双甘油、乙基己基甘油、三甘油和聚甘油、以及乙醇的亲水性物质中的1种以上为宜。
本发明的化妆品组合物中还可含有硅油、烃油、酯油。作为硅油,例如可列举出二甲基聚硅氧烷、三(三甲基硅氧基)甲基硅烷、辛基聚甲基硅氧烷(caprylyl methicone)、苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、四(三甲基硅氧基)硅烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、甲基己基聚硅氧烷、甲基氢聚硅氧烷、二甲基硅氧烷-甲基苯基硅氧烷共聚物等低粘度~高粘度的直链或分支状的有机聚硅氧烷。另外,可列举出八甲基环四硅氧烷、十甲基环五硅氧烷、十二甲基环六硅氧烷、四甲基四氢环四硅氧烷、四甲基四苯基环四硅氧烷等环状有机聚硅氧烷,氨基改性有机聚硅氧烷、吡咯烷酮改性有机聚硅氧烷、吡咯烷酮羧酸改性有机聚硅氧烷、高聚合度的胶状二甲基聚硅氧烷、胶状氨基改性有机聚硅氧烷、胶状的二甲基硅氧烷-甲基苯基硅氧烷共聚物等硅橡胶,以及硅酮橡胶(Silicone Gum)或硅橡胶的环状有机聚硅氧烷溶液。作为烃油,可列举出直链状、分支状、以及挥发性的烃油等。例如,可列举出地蜡、α-烯烃低聚物、轻质异链烷烃、异十二烷、异十六烷、轻质液体异链烷烃、角鲨烷、合成角鲨烷、植物性角鲨烷、角鲨烯、纯地蜡、链烷烃、石蜡、聚乙烯蜡、聚乙烯-聚丙烯蜡、(乙烯/丙烯/苯乙烯)共聚物、(丁烯/丙烯/苯乙烯)共聚物、液体石蜡、液体异链烷烃、姥鲛烷、聚异丁烯、氢化聚异丁烯、微晶蜡和凡士林等。作为高级脂肪酸,可列举出月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、山嵛酸、十一烯酸、油酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸、花生四烯酸、二十碳五烯酸(EPA)、二十二碳六烯酸(DHA)、异硬脂酸和12-羟基硬脂酸等。作为酯油,可列举出己二酸二异丁酯、己二酸2-己基癸酯、己二酸二(2-庚基十一烷基)酯、单异硬脂酸N-烷基二醇酯、异硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、三羟甲基丙烷三异硬脂酸酯、乙二醇二(2-乙基己酸)酯、2-乙基己酸鲸蜡酯、三羟甲基丙烷三(2-乙基己酸)酯、季戊四醇四(2-乙基己酸)酯、辛酸鲸蜡酯、辛基十二烷基胶酯(octyl dodecyl gumester)、油酸油醇酯、油酸辛基十二烷酯、油酸癸酯、新戊二醇二辛酸酯、新戊二醇二癸酸酯、柠檬酸三乙酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己酯、醋酸戊酯、醋酸乙酯、醋酸丁酯、硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、硬脂酸丁酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、癸二酸二(2-乙基己基)酯、乳酸鲸蜡酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、异壬酸异壬酯、异壬酸异十三烷酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、棕榈酸2-乙基己酯、棕榈酸2-己基癸酯、棕榈酸2-庚基十一烷酯、胆甾醇12-羟基硬脂酸酯、二季戊四醇脂肪酸酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷酯、肉豆蔻酸2-己基癸酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸酯、月桂酸乙酯、月桂酸己酯、N-月桂酰基-L-谷氨酸-2-辛基十二烷基酯、月桂酰基肌氨酸异丙酯、二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯等。作为甘油酯油,可列举出乙酰甘油酯、三异辛酸甘油酯、三异硬脂酸甘油酯、三异棕榈酸甘油酯、三山嵛酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯、二(2-庚基十一酸)甘油酯、三肉豆蔻酸甘油酯和肉豆蔻酸异硬脂酸二甘油酯等。
本发明的化妆品组合物中,根据其目的还可含有1种或2种以上的油剂。油剂只要是通常的化妆品中使用的油剂即可,可以是固体、半固体、液状的任意油剂。例如,作为天然动植物油脂类和半合成油脂,可列举出鳄梨油、亚麻籽油、杏仁油、虫白蜡、荏子油、橄榄油、可可脂、木棉蜡、香榧籽油、巴西棕榈蜡、鱼肝油、小烛树蜡、精制小烛树蜡、牛油、牛脚油、牛骨油、氢化牛油、杏仁油、鲸蜡、氢化油、小麦胚芽油、芝麻油、大米胚芽油、米糠油、甘蔗蜡、山茶花油、红花油、乳木果油、中国桐油、肉桂油、荷荷巴蜡、角鲨烷、角鲨烯、虫胶蜡、海龟油、大豆油、茶籽油、山茶油、月见草油、玉米油、猪油、菜籽油、日本桐油、米糠蜡、胚芽油、马油、桃仁油、棕榈油、棕榈仁油、蓖麻油、氢化蓖麻油、蓖麻油脂肪酸甲酯、葵花油、葡萄籽油、杨梅蜡、荷荷巴油、澳洲坚果油、蜂蜡、貂油、白芒花籽油、棉籽油、棉蜡、木蜡、野漆果油、褐煤蜡、椰油、氢化椰油、三椰油脂肪酸甘油酯、羊油、花生油、羊毛脂、液体羊毛脂、还原羊毛脂、羊毛脂醇、硬质羊毛脂、羊毛脂醋酸酯、羊毛脂醇醋酸酯、羊毛脂脂肪酸异丙酯、POE羊毛脂醇醚、POE羊毛脂醇醋酸酯、聚乙二醇羊毛脂脂肪酸酯、POE氢化羊毛脂醇醚、卵黄油等。其中,POE指聚氧乙烯(以下也是相同的)。
作为高级醇,可列举出月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇、棕榈醇、硬脂醇、山嵛醇、十六醇、油醇、异硬脂醇、己基十二醇、辛基十二醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇、2-癸基十四醇、胆甾醇、植物甾醇、POE胆甾醇醚、单硬脂基甘油醚(鲨肝醇)、单油基甘油醚(鲨油醇)等。
这些油剂的配合量根据药剂体系而不同,相对于化妆品组合物的总量适宜地为1~60质量%的范围。
在本发明的化妆品组合物中,根据其目的还可配合1种或2种以上的在分子结构中具有醇羟基的化合物。作为具有醇羟基的化合物,有上述亲水性物质以外的山梨醇、麦芽糖等糖醇等,有胆甾醇、谷甾醇、植物甾醇、羊毛甾醇等甾醇等。这些化合物的配合量,相对于化妆品组合物的总量适宜地为0.1~98质量%,特别优选为0.2~10质量%的范围。
在本发明的化妆品组合物中,根据其目的也可使用1种或2种以上的水溶性或水溶胀性高分子。例如,有阿拉伯胶、黄蓍胶、半乳聚糖、角豆树胶、瓜尔胶、刺梧桐树胶、角叉菜胶、果胶、琼脂、榅桲籽(榅桲)、淀粉(大米、玉米、马铃薯、小麦等)、海藻胶、黄芪胶(トラントガム)、刺槐豆胶等植物系高分子,黄原胶、葡聚糖、琥珀酰葡聚糖、普鲁兰多糖等微生物系高分子,胶原、酪蛋白、白蛋白、明胶等动物系高分子,羧甲基淀粉、甲基羟丙基淀粉等淀粉系高分子,甲基纤维素、乙基纤维素、甲基羟丙基纤维素、羧甲基纤维素、羟甲基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、硝基纤维素、纤维素硫酸钠、羧甲基纤维素钠、微晶纤维素、粉状纤维素的纤维素系高分子,海藻酸钠、海藻酸丙二醇酯等海藻酸系高分子,聚乙烯基甲基醚、羧基乙烯基聚合物等乙烯基系高分子,聚氧乙烯系高分子,聚氧乙烯聚氧丙烯共聚物系高分子,聚丙烯酸钠、聚丙烯酸乙酯、聚丙烯酰胺、丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸盐共聚物等丙烯酸系高分子,聚乙烯亚胺、阳离子聚合物等其它合成水溶性高分子,膨润土、硅酸铝镁、蒙脱石、贝得石、绿脱石、皂石、锂蒙脱石、硅酸酐等无机系水溶性高分子等。另外,在这些水溶性高分子中也可含有聚乙烯醇或聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮等皮膜形成剂。相对于化妆品组合物的总量,这些高分子的配合量适宜地为0.1~25质量%的范围。
在本发明的化妆品组合物中,根据其目的,也可使用1种或2种以上的粉体和/或着色剂。作为粉体,只要是通常的化妆品组合物中使用的粉体,则无论其形状(球状、针状、板状等)或粒径(烟雾状、微粒、颜料级等)、粒子结构(多孔、无孔等)如何,任意粉体均可使用,例如可列举出无机粉体、有机粉体、表面活性剂金属盐粉体、有色颜料、珠光颜料、金属粉末颜料、焦油色素、天然色素等。
例如,作为无机粉体,可列举出氧化钛、氧化锆、氧化锌、氧化铈、氧化镁、硫酸钡、硫酸钙、硫酸镁、碳酸钙、碳酸镁、滑石、云母、高岭土、绢云母、白云母、合成云母、金云母、红云母、黑云母、锂云母、硅酸、硅酸酐、硅酸铝、硅酸镁、硅酸铝镁、硅酸钙、硅酸钡、硅酸锶、钨酸金属盐、羟基磷灰石、蛭石、三水铝石、膨润土、蒙脱石、锂蒙脱石、沸石、陶瓷粉、磷酸氢钙、氧化铝、氢氧化铝、氮化硼、二氧化硅等。
作为有机粉体,可列举出聚酰胺粉、聚酯粉、聚乙烯粉、聚丙烯粉、聚苯乙烯粉、聚氨酯、苯代三聚氰胺粉、聚甲基苯代三聚氰胺粉、四氟乙烯粉、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉、纤维素、蚕丝粉、尼龙粉、尼龙12、尼龙6、硅酮粉、苯乙烯-丙烯酸共聚物、二乙烯基苯-苯乙烯共聚物、乙烯基树脂、尿素树脂、酚醛树脂、氟树脂、硅树脂、丙烯酸树脂、密胺树脂、环氧树脂、聚碳酸酯树脂、微晶纤维粉体、淀粉粉末、月桂酰基赖氨酸等。
作为表面活性剂金属盐粉体(金属皂),可列举出硬脂酸锌、硬脂酸铝、硬脂酸钙、硬脂酸镁、肉豆蔻酸锌、肉豆蔻酸镁、鲸蜡基磷酸锌、鲸蜡基磷酸钙、鲸蜡基磷酸锌钠等。
作为有色颜料,可列举出氧化铁、氢氧化铁、钛酸铁的无机红色颜料,γ-氧化铁等无机褐色系颜料,黄氧化铁、黄土等无机黄色系颜料,黑氧化铁、碳黑等无机黑色颜料,锰紫、钴紫等无机紫色颜料,氢氧化铬、氧化铬、氧化钴、钛酸钴等无机绿色颜料,普鲁士蓝、群青等无机蓝色系颜料,将焦油系色素色淀化而成的物质,将天然色素色淀化而成的物质,以及将这些粉体复合化而成的合成树脂粉体等。
作为珠光颜料,可列举出氧化钛被覆云母、氧化钛被覆云母(mica)、氯化氧铋、氧化钛被覆氯化氧铋、氧化钛被覆滑石、鱼鳞箔、氧化钛被覆着色云母等。
作为金属粉末颜料,可列举出铝粉、铜粉、不锈钢粉等。
作为焦油色素,可列举出红色3号、红色104号、红色106号、红色201号、红色202号、红色204号、红色205号、红色220号、红色226号、红色227号、红色228号、红色230号、红色401号、红色505号、黄色4号、黄色5号、黄色202号、黄色203号、黄色204号、黄色401号、蓝色1号、蓝色2号、蓝色201号、蓝色404号、绿色3号、绿色201号、绿色204号、绿色205号、橙色201号、橙色203号、橙色204号、橙色206号、橙色207号等。
作为天然色素,可列举出胭脂红酸、紫胶酸、红花素、巴西木素、藏花素等。
另外,这些粉体也可使用将粉体复合化而成的粉体,或用一般油剂、硅油、氟化合物、表面活性剂等处理过的粉体,还可根据需要使用以下的一种或两种以上:用具有水解性甲硅烷基或与硅原子直接键合的氢原子的烷基处理过的物质,具有水解性甲硅烷基或与硅原子直接键合的氢原子的直链状和/或分支状的有机聚硅氧烷,具有水解性甲硅烷基或与硅原子直接键合的氢原子、用长链烷基共改性的直链状和/或分支状有机聚硅氧烷,具有水解性甲硅烷基或与硅原子直接键合的氢原子、用聚氧化烯共改性的直链状和/或分支状有机聚硅氧烷,具有水解性甲硅烷基或与硅原子直接键合的氢原子的丙烯酸-硅酮系共聚物等。
另外,相对于化妆品组合物的总量,粉体和/或着色剂的配合量适宜地为0.1~99质量%,特别优选为1.0~20.0质量%的范围。
在本发明的化妆品组合物中,根据其目的也可使用1种或2种以上的表面活性剂。作为这样的表面活性剂,有阴离子型、阳离子型、非离子型和两性的活性剂,没有特别限制,只要是通常的化妆品中使用的表面活性剂,则任意表面活性剂均可使用。
例如,作为阴离子型表面活性剂,可列举出硬脂酸钠或棕榈酸三乙醇胺等脂肪酸皂、烷基醚羧酸及其盐、氨基酸与脂肪酸的缩合盐、链烷磺酸盐、链烯磺酸盐、脂肪酸酯的磺酸盐、脂肪酸酰胺的磺酸盐、甲醛缩合系磺酸盐、烷基硫酸酯盐、高级仲醇硫酸酯盐、烷基及烯丙基醚硫酸酯盐、脂肪酸酯的硫酸酯盐、脂肪酸烷醇酰胺的硫酸酯盐、土耳其红油等的硫酸酯盐类、烷基磷酸盐、醚磷酸盐、烷基烯丙基醚磷酸盐、酰胺磷酸盐、N-酰基乳酸盐、N-酰基肌氨酸盐、N-酰基氨基酸系活性剂等;作为阳离子型表面活性剂,可列举出烷基胺盐、多胺和氨基醇脂肪酸衍生物等胺盐,烷基季铵盐、芳族季铵盐、吡啶鎓盐、咪唑鎓盐等。
作为非离子型表面活性剂,可列举出脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯、甘油脂肪酸酯、聚甘油脂肪酸酯、丙二醇脂肪酸酯、聚乙二醇脂肪酸酯、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、甲基葡萄糖苷脂肪酸酯、烷基聚葡萄糖苷、聚氧乙烯烷基醚、聚氧丙烯烷基醚、聚氧乙烯烷基苯基醚、聚氧乙烯脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯山梨醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯甘油脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯丙二醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯蓖麻油、聚氧乙烯氢化蓖麻油、聚氧乙烯植物甾烷醇醚、聚氧乙烯植物甾醇醚、聚氧乙烯胆甾烷醇醚、聚氧乙烯胆甾醇醚、直链或分支状聚氧化烯改性有机聚硅氧烷、直链或分支状聚氧化烯-烷基共改性有机聚硅氧烷、直链状或分支状的聚甘油改性有机聚硅氧烷、直链状或分支状聚甘油-烷基共改性有机聚硅氧烷、链烷醇酰胺、糖醚、糖酰胺等,作为两性表面活性剂,可列举出甜菜碱、磷脂酰胆碱、氨基羧酸盐、咪唑啉衍生物、酰胺胺型等。
在这些表面活性剂中,优选为分子中具有聚氧化烯链或聚甘油链的直链或分支状有机聚硅氧烷,优选具有碳原子数6~20的长链烷基的直链或分支状有机聚硅氧烷。在这些表面活性剂中,亲水性的聚氧化烯基或聚甘油残基的含量优选占分子中的10~70质量%。相对于化妆品组合物的总量,这些表面活性剂的配合量适宜地为0.1~20质量%,特别优选0.2~10质量%的范围。
在本发明的化妆品组合物中,根据其目的也可含有1种或2种以上的硅酮树脂。硅酮树脂优选为丙烯酸/硅酮接枝或嵌段共聚物的丙烯酸硅酮树脂。另外,也可使用分子中含有选自吡咯烷酮部分、长链烷基部分、聚氧化烯部分和氟烷基部分、羧酸等阴离子部分中的至少1种的丙烯酸硅酮树脂。
此外该硅酮树脂优选为由以下树脂构成的硅酮网状化合物:由R1s 3SiO0.5单元和SiO2单元构成的树脂、由R1s 3SiO0.5单元和R1s 2SiO单元及SiO2单元构成的树脂、由R1s 3SiO0.5单元和R1sSiO1.5单元构成的树脂、由R1s 3SiO0.5单元和R1s 2SiO单元及R1sSiO1.5单元构成的树脂、由R1s 3SiO0.5单元、R1s 2SiO单元、R1sSiO1.5单元和SiO2单元构成的树脂(需说明的是,R1s表示有机基)。另外,也可使用分子中含有选自吡咯烷酮部分、长链烷基部分、聚氧化烯部分和氟烷基部分、氨基部分中的至少1种的硅酮网状化合物。相对于化妆品组合物的总量,丙烯酸硅酮树脂或硅酮网状化合物等硅酮树脂被使用时的配合量优选为0.1~20质量%,更优选为1~10质量%。
在本发明的化妆品组合物中,根据其目的也可含有由1种或2种以上的交联型有机聚硅氧烷和室温下为液状的油剂构成的组合物。该交联型有机聚硅氧烷优选相对于液状油,将含有自重以上的该液状油而溶胀。作为液状油,可使用上述液状硅油、烃油、酯油、天然动植物油、半合成油和氟系油等,例如可列举出0.65mm2/秒(25℃)~100.0mm2/秒(25℃)的低粘度硅油,液体石蜡、角鲨烷、异十二烷、异十六烷等烃油或三辛酸甘油酯等甘油酯油,异壬酸异十三烷酯、N-酰基谷氨酸酯、月桂酰基肌氨酸酯等酯油,澳洲坚果油等天然动植物油。另外,该交联型有机聚硅氧烷的交联剂优选在分子中具有两个以上的乙烯型反应部位,并且通过在与硅原子直接键合的氢原子之间反应而形成交联结构。作为分子中具有两个以上的乙烯性反应部位的物质,可列举出分子中具有两个以上的乙烯基的有机聚硅氧烷、分子中具有两个以上的烯丙基的聚氧化烯、分子中具有两个以上的烯丙基的聚甘油、α、ω-烯基二烯等。
另外,也可使用在交联分子中含有选自聚氧化烯部分、聚甘油部分、长链烷基部分、烯基部分、芳基部分和氟烷基部分中的至少1种的交联型有机聚硅氧烷。由交联型有机聚硅氧烷和室温下为液状的油剂构成的组合物被使用时的配合量,相对于化妆品组合物的总量,优选为0.1~80质量%,更优选为1~50质量%。
在本发明的化妆品组合物中,根据其目的也可使用1种或2种以上的硅酮蜡。硅酮蜡是硅酮改性烯烃蜡,通过使由α-烯烃和二烯构成的具有不饱和基团的烯烃蜡与1分子中具有1个以上的SiH键的有机氢聚硅氧烷进行加成反应而得到。作为烯烃蜡的α-烯烃,优选乙烯、丙烯、1-丁烯、1-己烯、4-甲基-1-戊烯等碳原子数2~12的α-烯烃,作为二烯,优选丁二烯、异戊二烯、1,4-己二烯、乙烯基降冰片烯、乙叉降冰片烯、二环戊二烯等。具有SiH键的有机氢聚硅氧烷可使用直链状或硅氧烷分支型等结构的物质。硅酮蜡被使用时的配合量,相对于化妆品组合物的总量优选为0.1~20质量%,更优选为0.5~10质量%。
此外,在本发明的化妆品组合物中还可添加通常的化妆品组合物中使用的成分,例如油溶性凝胶化剂、树脂、止汗剂、紫外线吸收剂、紫外线吸收散射剂、保湿剂、防菌防腐剂、抗菌剂、香料、盐类、抗氧化剂、pH调节剂、螯合剂、清凉剂、抗炎剂、美肤用成分(美白剂、细胞活化剂、皮肤粗糙改善剂、血液循环促进剂、皮肤收敛剂、抗脂溢剂等)、维生素类、氨基酸类、核酸、激素、包合物、毛发用固定剂等。
作为油溶性凝胶化剂,可列举出选自硬脂酸铝、硬脂酸镁、肉豆蔻酸锌等金属皂,N-月桂酰基-L-谷氨酸、α,γ-二正丁胺等氨基酸衍生物、糊精棕榈酸酯、糊精硬脂酸酯、糊精2-乙基己酸棕榈酸酯等糊精脂肪酸酯,蔗糖棕榈酸酯、蔗糖硬脂酸酯等蔗糖脂肪酸酯,低聚果糖硬脂酸酯、低聚果糖2-乙基己酸酯等低聚果糖脂肪酸酯,单苯亚甲基山梨醇、二苯亚甲基山梨醇等山梨醇的苯亚甲基衍生物,二甲基苄基十二烷基铵蒙脱石粘土、二甲基二(十八烷基)铵蒙脱石粘土等有机改性粘土矿物等的凝胶化剂。
作为止汗剂,可列举出选自氯化羟铝、氯化铝、倍半氯化羟铝、羟基氯化锆、羟基氯化铝锆、甘氨酸铝锆络合物等的止汗剂。
作为紫外线吸收剂,可列举出对氨基苯甲酸等苯甲酸系紫外线吸收剂,邻氨基苯甲酸甲酯等邻氨基苯甲酸系紫外线吸收剂,水杨酸甲酯、水杨酸辛酯、水杨酸三甲基环己酯等水杨酸系紫外线吸收剂,对甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯等肉桂酸系紫外线吸收剂,2,4-二羟基二苯甲酮等二苯甲酮系紫外线吸收剂,尿刊酸乙酯等尿刊酸系紫外线吸收剂,4-叔丁基-4'-甲氧基-二苯甲酰甲烷等二苯甲酰甲烷系紫外线吸收剂,苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、三嗪衍生物等;作为紫外线吸收散射剂,可列举出微粒氧化钛、微粒含铁氧化钛、微粒氧化锌、微粒氧化铈及它们的复合物等吸收散射紫外线的粉体,也可使用使这些吸收散射紫外线的粉体预先分散于油剂中而成的分散物。
作为保湿剂,有山梨醇、葡萄糖、木糖醇、麦芽糖醇、聚乙二醇、透明质酸、硫酸软骨素、吡咯烷酮羧酸盐、聚氧乙烯甲基葡萄糖苷、聚氧丙烯甲基葡萄糖苷、蛋黄卵磷脂、大豆卵磷脂、磷脂酰胆碱、磷脂酰乙醇胺、磷酯酰丝氨酸、磷脂酰甘油、磷脂酰肌醇、鞘磷脂等。
作为防菌防腐剂,有对羟基苯甲酸烷基酯、苯甲酸、苯甲酸钠、山梨酸、山梨酸钾、苯氧基乙醇等,作为抗菌剂,有苯甲酸、水杨酸、苯酚、山梨酸、对羟基苯甲酸烷基酯、对氯间甲酚、六氯酚、苯扎氯铵、氯化氯己定、三氯碳酰替苯胺、光敏剂、苯氧基乙醇等。
作为香料,可列举出天然香料和合成香料。作为天然香料,可列举出从花、叶、木材、果皮等分离的植物性香料,麝香、麝猫香等动物性香料。作为合成香料,可列举出单萜等烃类,脂族醇、芳族醇等醇类,萜烯醛、芳族醛等醛类,脂环式酮等酮类,萜烯系酯等酯类,内酯类,酚类,氧化物类,含氮化合物类,缩醛类等。
作为盐类,可列举出无机盐、有机酸盐、胺盐和氨基酸盐。作为无机盐,例如有盐酸、硫酸、碳酸、硝酸等无机酸的钠盐、钾盐、镁盐、钙盐、铝盐、锆盐、锌盐等,作为有机酸盐,例如有醋酸、脱氢醋酸、柠檬酸、苹果酸、琥珀酸、抗坏血酸、硬脂酸等有机酸类的盐,作为胺盐和氨基酸盐,例如有三乙醇胺等胺类的盐、谷氨酸等氨基酸类的盐等。另外,除此之外还可使用透明质酸、硫酸软骨素等的盐、甘氨酸铝锆络合物等,以及化妆品配方中使用的酸-碱的中和盐等。
作为抗氧化剂,可列举出生育酚、对叔丁基苯酚、丁基羟基茴香醚、二丁基羟基甲苯、植酸等,作为pH调节剂,可列举出乳酸、柠檬酸、乙醇酸、琥珀酸、酒石酸、dl-苹果酸、碳酸钾、碳酸氢钠、碳酸氢铵等,作为螯合剂,可列举出丙氨酸、乙二胺四乙酸钠盐、聚磷酸钠、偏磷酸钠、磷酸等,作为清凉剂,可列举出L-薄荷醇、樟脑等,作为抗炎剂,可列举出尿囊素、甘草酸及其盐、甘草次酸及甘草次酸硬脂酯、氨甲环酸、甘菊环等。
作为美肤用成分,可列举出胎盘提取液、熊果苷、谷胱甘肽、虎耳草提取物等美白剂,蜂王浆、光敏剂、胆甾醇衍生物、小牛血液提取液等细胞活化剂,皮肤粗糙改善剂,壬酸香草酰胺、烟酸苄酯、烟酸β-丁氧基乙酯、辣椒碱、姜油酮、斑蝥酊、鱼石脂、咖啡因、鞣酸、α-冰片、烟酸生育酚、六烟酸肌醇酯、环扁桃酯、桂利嗪、妥拉唑林、乙酰胆碱、维拉帕米、千金藤素、γ-谷维素等血液循环促进剂,氧化锌、鞣酸等皮肤收敛剂,硫磺、二甲硫蒽等抗脂溢剂等。
作为维生素类,有维生素A油、视黄醇、视黄醇醋酸酯、视黄醇棕榈酸酯等维生素A类;核黄素、核黄素丁酸酯、黄素腺嘌呤核苷酸等维生素B2类,吡哆素盐酸盐、吡哆素二辛酸酯、吡哆素三棕榈酸酯等维生素B6类,维生素B12及其衍生物,维生素B15及其衍生物等维生素B类;L-抗坏血酸、L-抗坏血酸二棕榈酸酯、L-抗坏血酸-2-硫酸钠、L-抗坏血酸磷酸二酯二钾等维生素C类;麦角钙化醇、胆钙化醇等维生素D类;α-生育酚、β-生育酚、γ-生育酚、dl-α-生育酚醋酸酯、dl-α-生育酚烟酸酯、dl-α-生育酚琥珀酸酯等维生素E类;维生素H、维生素P、烟酸、烟酸苄酯、烟酰胺等烟酸类;泛酸钙、D-泛醇、泛醇乙醚、乙酰基泛醇乙醚等泛酸类;生物素等。
作为氨基酸类,可列举出甘氨酸、缬氨酸、亮氨酸、异亮氨酸、丝氨酸、苏氨酸、苯丙氨酸、精氨酸、赖氨酸、天冬氨酸、谷氨酸、胱氨酸、半胱氨酸、蛋氨酸、色氨酸等,作为核酸,可列举出脱氧核糖核酸等,作为激素,可列举出雌二醇、乙烯基雌二醇等。
作为包合物,可列举出环糊精等。
作为毛发固定用高分子化合物,可列举出两性、阴离子性、阳离子性、非离子性的各高分子化合物,可列举出聚乙烯吡咯烷酮、乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯酯共聚物等聚乙烯吡咯烷酮系高分子化合物、甲基乙烯基醚/马来酸酐烷基半酯共聚物等酸性乙烯基醚系高分子化合物、醋酸乙烯酯/巴豆酸共聚物等酸性聚醋酸乙烯酯系高分子、(甲基)丙烯酸/(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯共聚物、(甲基)丙烯酸/(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯/烷基丙烯酰胺共聚物等酸性丙烯酸系高分子化合物、N-甲基丙烯酰基乙基-N,N-二甲基铵·α-N-甲基羧基甜菜碱/(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯共聚物、(甲基)丙烯酸羟丙酯/甲基丙烯酸丁基氨基乙酯/辛基丙烯酰胺共聚物等两性丙烯酸系高分子化合物。另外,还可适宜地使用纤维素或其衍生物、角蛋白及胶原或其衍生物等天然来源高分子化合物。
作为本发明中的化妆品组合物的形态,可列举出粉体、油性、油包水型乳液、水包油型乳液、非水乳液、W/O/W或O/W/O等复乳等形态。
在本发明中的化妆品组合物,可列举出化妆水、乳液、乳膏、卸妆剂(cleansing)、面膜、油液、按摩剂、美容液、美容油、清洁剂、除臭剂、护手霜、唇膏、皱纹遮蔽剂等护肤化妆品,隔离霜、遮瑕膏、香粉、粉状粉底、粉底液、粉底霜、油性粉底、腮红、眼影、睫毛膏、眼线膏、眉笔、口红等美妆化妆品,洗发剂、染发剂、润发乳、定型剂等毛发化妆品,止汗剂、防晒油或防晒乳液、防晒霜等防紫外线化妆品组合物等。
特别是含有水且为乳液形态的组合物适合作为隔离霜、粉底液、防晒乳液、防晒霜等。
另外,作为这些化妆品组合物的形状,可选择液状、乳液状、乳膏状、固体状、糊状、凝胶状、粉末状、压缩状、多层状、摩丝状、喷雾状、棒状、铅笔状等各种形状。
在本发明的化妆品组合物含有粉体的情况下,考虑到操作性良好,所以优选为分散有该粉体的液状、糊状和固体状中的任一种形状。
实施例
以下,示出实施例和比较例,对本发明进行更详细的说明,但本发明不受下述实施例限制。
在下述中,普鲁兰多糖是具有20万的重均分子量的株式会社林原的普鲁兰多糖。
[合成例1]
在300ml的反应器中将10g的普鲁兰多糖和100g的N-甲基吡咯烷酮、1g的三乙胺在120℃下加热溶解。向其中滴加0.5g的用下述式(2)表示的含有异氰酸酯基的有机聚硅氧烷。在120℃下搅拌反应5小时后,一边搅拌一边将反应液添加到200g的丙酮中,过滤分离生成的析出物,进而用200g的丙酮清洗3次并干燥,结果得到8.5g的白色固体。得到的白色固体是用下述式(2')表示的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖。根据1H-NMR分析的结果,相对于1摩尔的葡萄糖单元,硅酮残基的平均键合数为0.025摩尔。
[化学式7]
[化学式8]
式(2')中,PL为普鲁兰多糖残基,硅酮与普鲁兰多糖具有的葡萄糖单元中的羟基键合。x'是使硅酮残基的平均键合数相对于1摩尔的葡萄糖单元为0.025摩尔的值。
[合成例2]
在500ml的反应器中将20g的普鲁兰多糖和200g的N-甲基吡咯烷酮、0.5g的二月桂酸二正丁基锡在120℃下加热溶解。向其中滴加3g的用上述式(2)表示的含有异氰酸酯基的有机聚硅氧烷。在120℃下搅拌反应5小时后,一边搅拌一边将反应液添加到400g的丙酮中,过滤分离生成的析出物,进而用200g的丙酮清洗3次并干燥,结果得到19.0g的白色固体。得到的白色固体是用上述式(2')表示的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖,根据1H-NMR分析的结果,相对于1摩尔的葡萄糖单元,硅酮残基的平均键合数为0.075摩尔。在上述式(2')中,x'是使硅酮残基的平均键合数相对于1摩尔的葡萄糖单元为0.075摩尔的值。
[合成例3]
在500ml的反应器中将10g的羟乙基纤维素和150g的N-甲基吡咯烷酮、1g的三乙胺在120℃下加热溶解。向其中滴加0.5g的上述式(2)的含有异氰酸酯基的有机聚硅氧烷。在120℃下搅拌反应3小时后,一边搅拌一边将反应液添加到400g的丙酮中,过滤分离生成的析出物,进而用200g的丙酮清洗3次并干燥,结果得到9.2g的白色固体。得到的白色固体是用下述式(3')表示的硅酮改性羟乙基纤维素,根据1H-NMR分析的结果,相对于1摩尔的葡萄糖单元,硅酮残基的平均键合数为0.04摩尔。
[化学式9]
式(3')中,CL为羟乙基纤维素残基,硅酮与羟乙基纤维素具有的葡萄糖单元中的羟基键合。x'是使硅酮改性率达到有机聚硅氧烷相对于1摩尔的葡萄糖单元为0.04摩尔的值。
[比较合成例1]
在300ml的反应器中将10g的普鲁兰多糖和100g的N-甲基吡咯烷酮、1g的三乙胺在120℃下加热溶解。向其中滴加58g的用上述式(2)表示的含有异氰酸酯基的有机聚硅氧烷。在120℃下搅拌反应5小时后,一边搅拌一边将反应液添加到200g的甲醇中,过滤分离生成的析出物,进而用200g的甲醇清洗3次并干燥,用100g的水清洗2次并干燥,结果得到50g的白色固体。得到的白色固体是用上述式(2')表示的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖,根据1H-NMR分析的结果,硅酮改性率为,按照相对于1摩尔的葡萄糖单元的有机聚硅氧烷计的1.5摩尔。在上述式(2')中x'是使硅酮改性率达到有机聚硅氧烷相对于1摩尔的葡萄糖单元为1.5摩尔的值。
[生物降解性试验]
使用合成例1中得到的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖、比较合成例1中得到的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖和合成例1中用作原料的改性前的普鲁兰多糖作为试验样品。依据OECD指南编号301F, 1992年7月17日, “易生物降解性:测压呼吸测试(Ready Biodegradability:MANOMETRIC RESPIROMETRY TEST)”,通过以生化耗氧量(BOD)为指标的测定法,使用从污水处理厂的好氧反应池的活性污泥中采集的接种源,计算在22℃的培养温度下各普鲁兰多糖化合物的生物降解度(%)。将结果的曲线图示出于图1中。若28天后的生物降解度为60%以上,则判定为易降解性。
如图1所示,合成例1中得到的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖的降解度最高,具有易降解性。虽然未改性的普鲁兰多糖也具有易降解性,但本发明的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖的生物降解度更高。另一方面,比较合成例1中得到的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖为难降解性。
[实施例1、2和比较例1、2]
将上述合成例1中得到的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖、合成例3中得到的硅酮改性羟乙基纤维素和比较合成例1中得到的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖、以及未改性的普鲁兰多糖分别以下述表1所示的质量比与纯化水混合,评价25℃和80℃下硅酮改性多糖在纯化水中的溶解性和在纯化水溶解时的增稠性。另外,基于下述指标,评价使该溶液干燥而得到的干燥膜有无发粘。
[评价方法]
发粘的评价由5名小组成员进行。将按照下述评价标准进行评分得到的5人的评分的平均值示出于表1中。需说明的是,比较例1用甲苯溶解后干燥得到的干燥膜进行了评价。
[评价标准]
5分:不发粘,
4分:几乎不发粘,
3分:稍微发粘,
2分:发粘,
1分:非常发粘。
[表1]
[实施例3~6、比较例3~5]
使用合成例1~3和比较合成例1中得到的硅酮改性多糖、以及未改性的普鲁兰多糖,以下述表2所示的组成和配方制造化妆品组合物(化妆水)。需说明的是,各成分的配合量调整成合计为100质量份。
将约5g的得到的化妆水分别涂布在5名小组成员的皮肤上。对于涂布时的铺展、发粘、滋润感的持久性(5小时后),按照下述标准进行评价。将5人的评分的平均值记载于表2中。
[涂布时的铺展]
5分:在涂布时均匀且非常顺滑地铺展,
4分:大致均匀地铺展,
3分:稍微产生不均匀,
2分:产生不均匀,未顺滑地铺展
1分:涂匀差,未铺展。
[发粘]
5分:不发粘,
4分:几乎不发粘,
3分:稍微发粘,
2分:发粘,
1分:非常发粘。
[滋润感]
5分:有很强的滋润感,
4分:有滋润感,
3分:稍微有滋润感,
2分:几乎没有滋润感,
1分:没有滋润感。
[表2]
如表2所示,实施例3~6的化妆水的化妆膜不发粘,涂布时的铺展良好,滋润感的持久性优异。另一方面,比较例3~5的化妆水的化妆膜发粘,涂布时的铺展差,滋润感的持久性也差。
[实施例7、比较例6~7]
将合成例2中得到的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖、比较合成例1中得到的硅酮改性普鲁兰多糖、未改性的普鲁兰多糖及其它成分以下述表3所示的配比如下所示地混合,制备O/W防晒霜。各成分的配合量调整成合计为100质量份。
<O/W防晒霜化妆品的制备>
A:将成分(1)、(3)、(12)~(15)在85℃下均匀混合。
B:将成分(4)~(9)在85℃下均匀混合。
C:在80℃下将上述B中得到的混合物、成分(10)和成分(11)添加到上述A中得到的混合物中并乳化,缓慢冷却,得到O/W防晒霜。
其中,比较例6在工序B (油相)中添加成分(2)。
[感官评价方法]
对于上述得到的O/W防晒霜,在5名小组成员的皮肤上涂布约2g。对于涂布时的发粘、持妆性(5小时后)、35℃热水中的清洗性,按照下述标准进行评价。将5人的评分的平均值记载于表3中。
[涂布时的发粘]
5分:不发粘,
4分:几乎不发粘,
3分:稍微发粘,
2分:发粘,
1分:非常发粘。
[持妆性]
5点:没有脱妆,
4点:几乎没有脱妆,
3点:稍微有脱妆,
2点:有脱妆,
1点:有非常严重的脱妆。
[热水中的清洗性]
5点:被冲洗掉,
4点:几乎被冲洗掉,
3点:稍微被冲洗掉,
2点:几乎没有被冲洗掉,
1点:完全没有被冲洗掉。
[表3]
如表3所示,实施例7的O/W防晒霜的化妆膜不发粘,持妆性也良好,可用热水清洗。另一方面,比较例6和7的O/W防晒霜的化妆膜发粘,持妆性也不好。另外,比较例6的O/W防晒霜无法用热水清洗,需要卸妆油(油性清洁剂)。
[实施例8] 保湿O/W霜
<化妆品的制备>
A:将成分2~6均匀混合。
B:将成分1、7~11混合后,将该混合物加入到工序A中得到的混合物中并乳化,得到保湿O/W霜。
得到的保湿O/W霜的制剂稳定性高,可轻松涂匀铺展,提供清爽的使用感,保湿效果持久。
[实施例9] 膏状口红
<化妆品的制备>
A:将成分1、成分2的一部分和成分4~6加热,均匀混合。
B:在成分2的剩余部分中混合成分9并用辊分散,将得到的分散物添加到工序A的混合物中,均匀混合。
C:将成分3、7和8混合并加温后,加入到工序B的混合物中并乳化。
D:将成分10和11添加到工序C的混合物中,得到膏状口红。
得到的膏状口红可轻松涂匀而容易涂抹在唇上,不发粘或油腻,持妆性也良好。该膏状口红在10℃的水中不脱落,可用35℃的温水冲洗掉。
[实施例10] 眼影膏
<化妆品的制备>
A:将成分1、2和4混合,加入成分5并均匀混合,分散。
B:将成分3、6~9混合。
C:将工序B的混合物添加到工序A的混合物中并乳化,得到眼影膏。
如上所述得到的眼影膏可轻松涂匀铺展,不油腻或起粉,持久性也良好。
[实施例11] 防晒乳液
<化妆品的制备>
A:将成分1~3、5和6均匀混合。
B:将成分4、9~12混合。
C:将工序B的混合物添加到工序A的混合物中并乳化,加入成分7和8,得到防晒乳液。
如上所述得到的防晒乳液可轻松涂匀铺展,不发粘或油腻,耐汗性良好。
[实施例12] 晒黑乳液
<化妆品的制备>
A:将成分1~3、5、6均匀混合。
B:将成分4、7~13和成分15混合。
C:将工序B的混合物添加到工序A的混合物中并乳化,添加成分14,得到晒黑乳液。
如上所述得到的晒黑乳液不发粘,可轻松涂匀铺展,不油腻,提供清爽的使用感。
[实施例13] 发膏
<化妆品的制备>
A:将成分1、2、4~7、成分12~14均匀混合。
B:将成分3、8~11和16均匀混合。
C:在搅拌下,向工序A中得到的混合物中缓慢添加工序B中得到的混合物并乳化,添加成分15,得到发膏。
如上所述得到的发膏不油腻,可轻松涂匀铺展,具有耐水性、防水性、耐汗性,持久性也良好。
[实施例14] O/W乳膏
<化妆品的制备>
A:将成分1、2、4~9加热混合。
B:将成分3、10~12和14混合,加热。
C:在搅拌下,向工序A的混合物中缓慢添加工序B的混合物并乳化。在冷却后,添加成分13,得到O/W乳膏。
确认如上所述得到的O/W乳膏不发粘或油腻,干爽,可轻松涂匀铺展,具有清爽的使用感。
[实施例15] W/O粉底液
<化妆品的制备>
A:将成分4的一部分和成分9混合,并将成分8均匀分散。
B:将成分1~3、4的剩余部分和成分5、7均匀混合。
C:将成分6、10~14和成分16均匀混合。
D:在搅拌下,向工序B的混合物中缓慢添加工序C的混合物并乳化,进而添加工序A的混合物和成分15,得到W/O粉底液。
如上所述得到的W/O粉底液不发粘或油腻,可轻松涂匀铺展,持妆性也良好,制剂稳定且没有二次附着。该W/O粉底液在水中不脱落,可用温水冲洗掉。
产业上的可利用性
本发明的化妆品组合物不油腻或发粘,具有耐水性、耐油性,持妆性优异。因此,可提供能够在水中不脱落但在温水中脱落的化妆品组合物。特别是本发明可适宜地提供乳液形态的化妆品组合物,作为隔离霜、粉底液、防晒乳液和防晒霜等提供良好的化妆品组合物。
Claims (8)
1.化妆品组合物,其特征在于,含有下述(A)成分和(B)成分:
(A)相对于化妆品组合物的总质量为0.05~20质量%的硅酮改性多糖,其特征为具有与多糖的单糖单元中的羟基键合的用下述通式(1)表示的1个以上的硅酮残基,该硅酮残基的平均键合数为每1摩尔单糖单元0.001摩尔以上且0.1摩尔以下,
[化学式1]
式中,R1、R2、R3和R4相互独立地为选自碳原子数1~8的烷基、碳原子数3~8的环烷基、碳原子数1~8的氟取代烷基、碳原子数6~12的芳基和碳原子数7~12的芳烷基的基团,n为1~10的整数,且a为0~3的整数;和
(B)相对于化妆品组合物的总质量为5~99质量%的水。
2.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物,其中,所述多糖选自普鲁兰多糖、纤维素、甲壳素、壳聚糖、淀粉、甘露聚糖、透明质酸以及它们的衍生物。
3.根据权利要求2所述的化妆品组合物,其中,所述多糖为普鲁兰多糖,上述硅酮残基的平均键合数为每1摩尔葡萄糖单元0.001摩尔以上且0.1摩尔以下。
4.根据权利要求2或3所述的化妆品组合物,其中,所述硅酮改性多糖具有生物降解性。
5.根据权利要求1~3中任一项所述的化妆品组合物,其中,还含有选自丙二醇、三亚甲基二醇、二丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、甲基丙二醇、戊二醇、甘油、双甘油、乙基己基甘油、三甘油、聚甘油和乙醇的至少1种。
6.根据权利要求1~3中任一项所述的化妆品组合物,其中,还含有选自硅油、烃油和酯油的至少1种。
7.根据权利要求1~3中任一项所述的化妆品组合物,其中,还含有粉体。
8.根据权利要求1~3中任一项所述的化妆品组合物,其具有乳液的形态。
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JPH09136901A (ja) * | 1995-11-13 | 1997-05-27 | Shin Etsu Chem Co Ltd | シロキサングラフトセルロース誘導体を含有する化粧料及びその製造方法 |
JPH1029910A (ja) * | 1996-05-16 | 1998-02-03 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
CN103356403A (zh) * | 2012-04-04 | 2013-10-23 | 信越化学工业株式会社 | 化妆材料 |
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JP3009090B2 (ja) | 1994-11-08 | 2000-02-14 | 信越化学工業株式会社 | シロキサン含有プルラン及びその製造方法 |
JP3515873B2 (ja) | 1996-05-16 | 2004-04-05 | 株式会社資生堂 | 日焼け止め化粧料 |
JP3742984B2 (ja) | 2000-03-28 | 2006-02-08 | 株式会社資生堂 | 油中水型乳化組成物 |
WO2012133293A1 (ja) | 2011-03-29 | 2012-10-04 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 睫用化粧料 |
CN107072931B (zh) * | 2014-07-28 | 2018-10-16 | 株式会社资生堂 | 油性化妆品 |
JP2017001983A (ja) * | 2015-06-10 | 2017-01-05 | 信越化学工業株式会社 | 化粧料 |
JP6134998B1 (ja) | 2016-06-08 | 2017-05-31 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 目元用化粧料組成物 |
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JPH09136901A (ja) * | 1995-11-13 | 1997-05-27 | Shin Etsu Chem Co Ltd | シロキサングラフトセルロース誘導体を含有する化粧料及びその製造方法 |
JPH1029910A (ja) * | 1996-05-16 | 1998-02-03 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
CN103356403A (zh) * | 2012-04-04 | 2013-10-23 | 信越化学工业株式会社 | 化妆材料 |
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CN115209870A (zh) | 2022-10-18 |
EP4122443A1 (en) | 2023-01-25 |
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WO2021187306A1 (ja) | 2021-09-23 |
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