CN114712285A - Composition with anti-wrinkle effect and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Composition with anti-wrinkle effect and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN114712285A
CN114712285A CN202210414711.8A CN202210414711A CN114712285A CN 114712285 A CN114712285 A CN 114712285A CN 202210414711 A CN202210414711 A CN 202210414711A CN 114712285 A CN114712285 A CN 114712285A
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stirring
peptide
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CN114712285B (en
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潘武
黄全胜
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Haoyu Guangzhou Cosmetics Manufacturing Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

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Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetics, and in particular relates to a composition with an anti-wrinkle effect, and a preparation method and application thereof. The composition with the anti-wrinkle effect contains hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, peptide, saccharide isomerate, hibiscus bark extract and ceramide NP. The composition does not generate the phenomenon of layering when standing for 90 days at the temperature of 48 ℃ or 90 days at the temperature of minus 10 ℃, has better heat-resistant and cold-resistant stability, is uniform in product, and is not easy to generate the phenomenon of layering and deterioration; after the composition product is continuously used for 7 weeks, the wrinkle reducing effect is obvious, and the wrinkle reducing rate reaches more than 60%; after the continuous use for 10 hours, the moisture of the skin is obviously increased, and the increase rate is more than 145 percent.

Description

Composition with anti-wrinkle effect and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to cosmetics, and in particular relates to a composition with an anti-wrinkle effect, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
With the increase of people's age, the skin of people is continuously atrophied, relaxed, the wrinkles of the skin are increased and deepened, the color spots are enlarged and the pigment is deepened, namely the skin is continuously aged. The main factors causing human skin aging are the intrinsic physiological mechanism, diseases, external UV radiation, environmental pollution and the like of human body aging. The main cause of aging of human skin, as observed at the cellular level, is a decrease in the cell viability of the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. The reduction of the activity of epidermal layer cells leads to the reduction of skin barrier function and resistance, and simultaneously, under the stimulation of ultraviolet rays, cell metabolism disorder and pigment are continuously accumulated. Secondly, the cell viability of the dermis is reduced, and the collagen and elastin secretion of fibroblasts in the dermis is reduced; the collagen has strong water holding capacity, and the content of the collagen is reduced, so that the skin is loose and wrinkles are increased; elastin fibres have some supporting effect on the skin, and their reduction can lead to loss of elasticity of the skin. In addition, as the human body ages, the contraction of epidermal capillaries is reduced, the local blood circulation of the skin is insufficient, so that the nutrition and water supply of skin cells are insufficient, metabolic wastes cannot be discharged in time, and the skin cells slowly lose vitality.
However, with the improvement of living standard of people, people pay more and more attention to beauty pursuit, one embodiment is the attention to skin care and facial modification, however, many products on the market achieve the effect of covering wrinkles or have no good effect on anti-wrinkle, so the demand of the composition with the anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects under the increasing market demand is stronger and stronger.
The wrinkles refer to small fine lines and wrinkles formed by the skin affected by external environment to form free radicals, the free radicals destroy collagen and active substances in normal cell membrane tissues and oxidize cells. Facial wrinkles are divided into two types, atrophied wrinkles and hypertrophic wrinkles. Atrophic wrinkles refer to wrinkles that appear on thin, chapped and dry skin, such as countless fine wrinkles around the eyes; hypertrophic wrinkles are wrinkles that are indicated on oily skin, are not numerous and have dense and deep texture. Among them, the eye skin is the thinnest skin of the human body, is very delicate and fragile, and is easily damaged.
The active ingredients of the anti-aging, wrinkle-removing and moisturizing composition on the market at present are basically the components of Chinese herbal medicine extracts, collagen, peptide, epidermal growth factor, vitamins and derivatives thereof, coenzyme and the like. These materials are claimed to have anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects. However, at present, there are few products that can effectively penetrate skin to achieve significant anti-wrinkle effects, and a solution is needed for products for repairing the deep layers of the skin, preventing aging and resisting wrinkles.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to achieve the purposes of repairing the deep inside and outside skin, resisting wrinkles and preserving moisture, the invention provides a composition with an anti-wrinkle effect, and a preparation method and application thereof.
In one aspect, the present invention provides a composition having anti-wrinkle effects, which comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, a peptide, saccharide isomerate, hibiscus bark extract, ceramide NP.
The amount of the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol used in the composition (mass percentage, the same applies hereinafter) is 0.1 to 5%, and may preferably be 0.1 to 4.8%, 0.5 to 4.5%, 0.7 to 4.3%, 0.9 to 4%, 1 to 3.5%, 1.5 to 3.4%, 1 to 3%, or the like. The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, CAS:439685-79-7, is a xylose derivative with an anti-aging active substance, can promote the synthesis of collagen, makes the skin tougher and elastic, improves neck fine lines and prevents aging. Is a glycoprotein mixture derived from xylose. Since xylose is present in large amounts in beech trees and has the ability to promote the production of glycosaminoglycans, i.e. mucopolysaccharides (GAGs). As hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol extracted from beech tree, it has a similar action to xylose. Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol can induce biosynthesis of GAGs mucopolysaccharide and PG proteoglycan in superficial epidermal layers, and loss of GAGs and PG can cause reduction of skin water content and reduction of defense capability; the close connection of the epidermis and the dermis is effectively promoted, the dermis layer is better fixed, and the skin is stronger and more elastic; after long-term use, the facial wrinkle and fine lines are effectively improved, and the regeneration of damaged tissues is promoted.
The amount of the peptide in the composition is 0.1 to 2%, and may preferably be 0.15 to 1.9%, 0.2 to 1.9%, 0.3 to 1.8%, 0.4 to 1.7%, 0.5 to 1.5%, 0.8 to 1.3%, 0.9 to 1.2%, etc. Wherein the peptide can be at least one of tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and nonapeptide-1. Among them, tripeptide-1 is a signal peptide capable of inhibiting collagen carbonylation and stimulating the production of essential ECM proteins (collagen I and III, fibronectin, elastin, and laminin), thereby increasing skin firmness, promoting tissue renewal, and healing processes. NONAPEPTIDE-1, named NONAPEPTIDE-1 in English, is used in cosmetics and skin care products to beautify skin and eliminate spots. The molecular structure and action mechanism of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 are similar to those of botulinum toxin, and the acetyl hexapeptide-8 can effectively smooth wrinkles, compact skin, help to recover skin brightness and enable the face to show a younger outline by inhibiting nerve and muscle conduction. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is involved in competing for the site of SNAP-25 at the vacuolar complex, thereby affecting complex formation. If the vesicular complex is slightly unstable, the vesicle cannot effectively release neurotransmitters, thereby causing a decrease in muscle contraction and preventing the formation of wrinkles. Wherein the peptide can be derived from commercial skin-friendly peptides of a leisurely organism; the compound peptide has the functions of compacting skin, stimulating collagen synthesis, resisting wrinkle fine lines, stimulating essential ECM protein synthesis, promoting collagen growth capacity and repairing aged and fractured collagen elastic fibers; by inhibiting the conduction between nerves and muscles, wrinkles are effectively smoothed, the skin is compacted, the skin gloss is helped to be recovered, and the face shows a younger outline. The skin barrier function is enhanced, the skin moisture degree is maintained, the intercellular substance is increased, the intercellular adhesion is increased, the skin barrier function is maintained, the moisture of the dermis layer and the epidermis layer is not easy to escape and lose, the transdermal moisture loss is reduced, the moisture retaining effect is achieved, and the skin is continuously moisturized.
The saccharide isomer may be used in an amount of 0.1 to 2%, and may preferably be 0.15 to 1.9%, 0.2 to 1.9%, 0.3 to 1.8%, 0.4 to 1.7%, 0.5 to 1.5%, 0.8 to 1.3%, 0.9 to 1.2%, etc. in the composition. The saccharide isomerate is extracted from natural plant saccharide complex, is similar to carbohydrate complex in human body, and has good skin-friendly performance. The keratin of the horny layer is assisted to combine with water by combining with free amino acid groups of lysine on keratin in cells of the horny layer, and the keratin cannot be easily washed off, so that the long-lasting moisturizing effect is achievedAnd (5) fruit. It is also effective in dry and low humidity environments. The saccharide isomerate may be derived from the Dismann company commercial product
Figure BDA0003605160220000041
The substance is 100% of natural plant-derived material, has similar composition to carbohydrate component in human skin, and has unique ability to bind on skin; the moisture can be preserved in real time and deeply, a reservoir is formed, and the moisture is preserved for 72 hours; help epidermal cells to hydrate more and better and improve the skin barrier; improving hydration and water retention of stratum corneum in a short period, and thus improving desquamation phenomenon in a medium to long period, and strengthening skin barrier function; the tension, itching and stabbing pain caused by dry skin are improved, and comfortable skin feeling is obtained; the skin is softer and smoother, the dandruff is reduced, and finally a healthier skin appearance is obtained; it can promote the expression of key genes acting in skin barrier, up-regulate the gene expression levels of filaggrin, loricrin, hyaluronic acid synthase 3 and acid sphingomyelinase, and improve the softness and smoothness of skin.
The amount of the cortex Hibisci extract in the composition is 0.01-1%, preferably 0.02-0.95%, 0.05-0.9%, 0.1-0.9%, 0.2-0.8%, 0.3-0.7%, 0.4-0.6%, etc. The hibiscus bark extract can supplement energy to skin, re-stimulate and promote cell metabolism mechanism, revive skin cell activity and improve energy output and output rate; has effects in resisting oxidation, inhibiting cell oxidation, and inhibiting free radical formation; and has effects in removing wrinkles, and reducing facial deep wrinkles, superficial wrinkles and crow's feet.
The ceramide NP is preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 1%, and may be preferably 0.005 to 1%, 0.01 to 1%, 0.02 to 0.5%, 0.03 to 0.4%, 0.04 to 0.3%, 0.05 to 0.2%, 0.001 to 0.1%, or the like. The ceramide NP increases the ceramide content in the horny layer of the epidermis, and can improve the conditions of dry skin, desquamation, roughness and the like; meanwhile, ceramide can increase the thickness of the horny layer of epidermis, improve the water holding capacity of the skin, reduce wrinkles, enhance the elasticity of the skin and delay the skin aging.
Further, preferably, the composition comprises 0.1-5% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.1-2% of saccharide isomer, 0.01-1% of bark extract of shrubalthea, and 0.001-1% of ceramide NP.
Further, the peptide is preferably at least one of tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and nonapeptide-1, and more preferably skin-friendly peptide.
Further, the saccharide isomer is preferably
Figure BDA0003605160220000051
Further, it is preferable that the composition contains an emulsifier which may be selected from one or at least two of cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate, trideceth-6. The dosage of the emulsifier is 0.5-4%, preferably 0.5-3.5%, 0.7-3.2%, 1-3%, 1.5-2.5%, etc.
Further, it is preferable that the composition contains an emulsifier stabilizer, which may be selected from inulin lauryl carbamate, in an amount of 0.1-1%, preferably 0.2-0.8%, 0.3-0.7%, 0.4-0.6%, etc.
Further, it is preferred that the composition comprises an emollient selected from one or at least two of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, dimethicone, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil, ethylhexyl stearate, glyceryl caprylate. The amount of the emollient is 10-25%, preferably 12-24%, 14-22%, 15-20%, 16-18%, etc.
Further, the composition preferably contains a humectant selected from one or at least two of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, dextran, allantoin, hyaluronic acid, and sodium hyaluronate. The dosage of the humectant is 5-15%, preferably 6-13%, 6-12%, 6-11%, 7-10% and the like.
Further, it is preferable that the composition contains a skin conditioning agent selected from one or at least two of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, squalane, tetrahydro-methyl-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, aminobutyric acid, creatine, glycine and threonine. The dosage of the skin conditioner is 0.1-5%, preferably 0.5-4%, 0.7-3%, 1-3%, 1.5-2.5% and the like.
Further, the composition preferably contains a thickening agent, wherein the thickening agent is selected from one or at least two of sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, gelatin, carrageenan and gum arabic. The amount of the thickener is 0.2-3%, preferably 0.5-2.8%, 0.7-2.6%, 1-2.5%, 1.5-2%, etc.
Further, the composition preferably contains a preservative selected from one or at least two of p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, sorbic acid and phenoxyethanol. The amount of the preservative is 0.001-0.6%, preferably 0.01-0.5%, 0.02-0.4%, 0.03-0.35%, 0.05-0.3%, etc.
Further, the composition preferably contains a pH regulator, wherein the pH regulator is selected from one or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, triethanolamine, diethanolamine and tromethamine. The dosage of the pH regulator is 0.01-2%, preferably 0.05-2.7%, 0.1-2.5%, 0.2-2%, 0.3-1.5%, etc.
Further, it is preferable that the composition contains a solvent, and the solvent is water. The dosage of the solvent is 55-90%, preferably 60-85%, 62-78%, 65-75% and the like.
Further, the composition comprises 0.1-5% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.1-2% of saccharide isomer, 0.01-1% of bark extract of shrubalthea, 0.001-1% of ceramide NP, 0.5-4% of emulsifier, and 10-25% of emollient.
Preferably, the composition comprises 0.1-5% hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.1-2% peptide, 0.1-2% saccharide isomer, 0.01-1% hibiscus bark extract, 0.001-1% ceramide NP, 0.5-4% emulsifier, 10-25% emollient, 0.1-5% skin conditioner, 0.1-1% emulsion stabilizer.
Preferably, the composition further comprises one or at least two of 0.2-3% of a thickening agent, 0.001-0.6% of a preservative, 0.01-2% of a pH adjusting agent, and 55-90% of a solvent.
Further, the present invention is not limited by the dosage form of the product; preferably, the composition can be prepared into dosage forms of cream, aqua, lotion, paste, essence, facial mask, etc.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a composition having anti-wrinkle effect, comprising:
1) weighing the raw materials according to the dosage for later use;
2) uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and part of solvent water to obtain a phase B;
4) stirring and mixing the preservative and part of solvent water uniformly to obtain a phase C;
5) uniformly stirring and mixing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, peptide and saccharide isomerate with partial solvent water to obtain a phase D;
6) mixing the hibiscus bark extract with part of water to obtain phase E;
7) adding A, B, C, D, E phase into the reaction vessel, adding pH regulator, and stirring to obtain the composition.
Preferably, the stirring temperatures of steps 2) to 7) are all 20 to 60 ℃.
Preferably, the stirring time of steps 2) to 7) is 0.2 to 2 h.
Preferably, the stirring rotation speeds of the steps 2) to 7) are all 100-1000 rpm.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a use of a composition having an anti-wrinkle effect, including a use of the composition having an anti-wrinkle effect in an anti-wrinkle cosmetic.
The beneficial technical effects are as follows:
the composition of the invention contains hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, peptide, saccharide isomer, hibiscus bark extract and ceramide NP. Wherein, the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol can induce the biosynthesis of GAGs mucopolysaccharide and PG proteoglycan in a superficial epidermal layer so as to prevent the water content of the skin from being reduced and the defense capability from being reduced; the close connection of the epidermis and the dermis is effectively promoted, the dermis layer is better fixed, and the skin is stronger and more elastic; effectively improve wrinkles and fine lines on the face and neck and promote the regeneration of damaged tissues. The hibiscus bark extract can supplement energy to skin, re-stimulate and promote cell metabolism mechanism, revive skin cell activity and improve energy output and output rate; has effects in resisting oxidation, inhibiting cell oxidation, and inhibiting free radical formation; and has effects in removing wrinkles, and reducing facial deep wrinkles, superficial wrinkles and crow's feet. Ceramide NP increases ceramide content in horny layer of epidermis, and can improve skin dryness, desquamation, pachylosis, etc.; meanwhile, ceramide can increase the thickness of the horny layer of epidermis, improve the water holding capacity of the skin, reduce wrinkles, enhance the elasticity of the skin and delay the skin aging. The three components can be compounded and cooperated with each other, so as to achieve the effects of resisting wrinkles and replenishing water from inside to outside.
The saccharide isomerate disclosed by the invention can be combined on the skin, so that the moisture can be preserved instantly and deeply, epidermal cells can be better hydrated, the skin barrier can be improved, the expression of key genes playing a role in the skin barrier can be promoted, and the softness and smoothness of the skin can be improved. The peptide substance can compact skin, stimulate collagen synthesis, resist wrinkle fine lines, stimulate essential ECM protein synthesis, promote collagen growth ability, and repair aged and fractured collagen elastic fibers; by inhibiting the conduction between nerves and muscles, wrinkles are effectively smoothed, the skin is compacted, the skin is helped to recover the gloss of the skin, and the face shows a younger outline. The skin barrier function is enhanced, the skin moisture degree is maintained, the intercellular substance is increased, the intercellular adhesion is increased, the skin barrier function is maintained, the moisture of the dermis layer and the epidermis layer is not easy to escape and lose, the transdermal moisture loss is reduced, the moisture retaining effect is achieved, and the skin is continuously moisturized. The anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects of the product are improved to a great extent, and the anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects are reasonably compounded to achieve an excellent technical effect.
The composition does not generate the phenomenon of layering when standing for 90 days at the temperature of 48 ℃ and 90 days at the temperature of minus 10 ℃, has better heat-resistant and cold-resistant stability, and has uniform product cream products and difficult layering and deterioration; and the product still shows better uniformity in cold and hot cycle test, and still does not delaminate under the cycle test condition.
After the composition is continuously used for 7 weeks, the wrinkle reducing effect is obvious, and the wrinkle reducing rate reaches more than 60%.
After the composition is continuously used for 10 hours, the skin moisture is obviously increased, the moisturizing effect is better, and the skin moisture increase rate is more than 145% after the composition is used for 10 hours.
After the emulsion stabilizer is omitted, the stability, wrinkle resistance and moisturizing effect of the product are obviously reduced.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments and examples, and the advantages and various effects of the present invention will be more clearly apparent therefrom. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that these specific embodiments and examples are illustrative of the invention and are not to be construed as limiting the invention.
Throughout the specification, unless otherwise specifically noted, terms used herein should be understood as having meanings as commonly used in the art. Accordingly, unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. If there is a conflict, the present specification will control.
Unless otherwise specifically stated, various raw materials, reagents, instruments, equipment and the like used in the present invention are commercially available or can be prepared by existing methods.
Example 1:
a skin cream composition with an anti-wrinkle effect comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 2 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.5 part of skin-friendly peptide and 0.4 part of skin-friendly peptide
Figure BDA0003605160220000111
0.6 part of hibiscus bark extract, 0.3 part of ceramide NP, 2 parts of emulsifier, 0.3 part of emulsion stabilizer, 15 parts of emollient, 10 parts of humectant and 4 parts of skin conditioner1 part of thickening agent, 0.3 part of preservative, 0.5 part of pH regulator and 63.1 parts of water;
wherein the emulsifier is cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate, tridecyl polyether-6, and the mass ratio is 1:1: 0.2; the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate; the emollient is cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, polydimethylsiloxane, glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), jojoba seed oil, ethylhexyl stearate and glyceryl caprylate in a mass ratio of 2:1:2:1:2:0.5:0.2: 0.2; the humectant is glycerol, butanediol and 1, 2-propylene glycol in a mass ratio of 1:1: 0.1; the skin conditioning agent is tocopherol acetate; the thickening agent is carbomer and sodium polyacrylate in a mass ratio of 1: 1; the preservative is p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, 1, 2-hexanediol and caprylyl hydroximic acid in a mass ratio of 2:1:1:1: 1; the pH regulator is tromethamine;
the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
1) weighing the raw materials according to the mass for later use;
2) uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and water accounting for 40% of the water by mass to obtain a phase B;
4) stirring and mixing the preservative and water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase C;
5) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, skin-friendly peptide and saccharide isomer
Figure BDA0003605160220000121
Stirring and mixing the phase D with water accounting for 20% of the mass of the water uniformly to obtain a phase D;
6) mixing the hibiscus bark extract with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain an E phase;
7) stirring and mixing the A, B, C, D, E phases uniformly, then adding a pH regulator, and continuing stirring to obtain a composition;
the stirring temperature of the steps 2) to 7) is 50 ℃, the stirring time is 0.4h, and the stirring speed is 500 r/min.
Example 2:
a skin cream composition with an anti-wrinkle effect comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 3 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.2 part of skin-friendly peptide and 0.1 part of skin-friendly peptide
Figure BDA0003605160220000122
0.01 part of hibiscus bark extract, 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2 parts of emulsifier, 0.3 part of emulsion stabilizer, 15 parts of emollient, 10 parts of humectant, 4 parts of skin conditioner, 1 part of thickener, 0.3 part of preservative, 0.5 part of pH regulator and 63.39 parts of water;
wherein the emulsifier is cetearyl olive oleate; the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate; the emollient is cetyl ethyl hexanoate and isononyl isononanoate with the mass ratio of 2: 1.2; the humectant is glycerol and 1, 2-propylene glycol in a mass ratio of 1: 1; the skin conditioning agent is tocopherol acetate; the thickening agent is carbomer and sodium polyacrylate in a mass ratio of 1: 1; the preservative is p-hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexyl glycerol and caprylyl hydroximic acid in a mass ratio of 2:1: 1; the pH regulator is tromethamine;
the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
1) weighing the raw materials according to the mass for later use;
2) uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and water accounting for 40% of the water by mass to obtain a phase B;
4) stirring and mixing the preservative and water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase C;
5) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, skin-friendly peptide and saccharide isomer
Figure BDA0003605160220000131
Stirring and mixing the phase D with water accounting for 20% of the mass of the water uniformly to obtain a phase D;
6) mixing the hibiscus bark extract with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain an E phase;
7) stirring and mixing the A, B, C, D, E phases uniformly, then adding a pH regulator, and continuing stirring to obtain a composition;
the stirring temperature of the steps 2) to 7) is 50 ℃, the stirring time is 0.4h, and the stirring speed is 500 r/min.
Example 3:
a skin cream composition with an anti-wrinkle effect comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 1 part of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.4 part of skin-friendly peptide and 0.3 part of skin-friendly peptide
Figure BDA0003605160220000132
0.5 part of hibiscus bark extract, 0.4 part of ceramide NP, 2 parts of emulsifier, 0.3 part of emulsion stabilizer, 15 parts of emollient, 10 parts of humectant, 4 parts of skin conditioner, 1 part of thickener, 0.3 part of preservative, 0.5 part of pH regulator and 64.3 parts of water;
wherein the emulsifier is sorbitan olivate and tridecyl polyether-6 with the mass ratio of 1: 1; the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate; the emollient is cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isononyl isononanoate and jojoba seed oil in a mass ratio of 2:1: 2; the humectant is glycerol, butanediol and 1, 2-propylene glycol in a mass ratio of 1:1: 0.1; the skin conditioning agent is tocopherol acetate; the thickening agent is carbomer and sodium polyacrylate in a mass ratio of 1: 1; the preservative is p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol in a mass ratio of 2:1: 1; the pH regulator is tromethamine;
the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
1) weighing the raw materials according to the mass for later use;
2) uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and water accounting for 40% of the water by mass to obtain a phase B;
4) stirring and mixing the preservative and water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase C;
5) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, skin-friendly peptide and saccharide isomer
Figure BDA0003605160220000141
Stirring and mixing evenly with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase D;
6) mixing the hibiscus bark extract with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain an E phase;
7) stirring and mixing the A, B, C, D, E phases uniformly, then adding a pH regulator, and continuing stirring to obtain a composition;
the stirring temperature of the steps 2) to 7) is 50 ℃, the stirring time is 0.4h, and the stirring speed is 500 r/min.
Example 4:
a skin cream composition with an anti-wrinkle effect comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 0.5 part of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.7 part of skin-friendly peptide and 0.6 part of skin-friendly peptide
Figure BDA0003605160220000151
0.2 part of hibiscus bark extract, 0.5 part of ceramide NP, 2 parts of emulsifier, 0.3 part of emulsion stabilizer, 15 parts of emollient, 10 parts of humectant, 4 parts of skin conditioner, 1 part of thickener, 0.3 part of preservative, 0.5 part of pH regulator and 64.4 parts of water;
wherein the emulsifier is sorbitan olivate and tridecyl polyether-6 with the mass ratio of 1: 1; the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate; the emollient is isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), jojoba seed oil, ethylhexyl stearate and glycerol caprylate in a mass ratio of 2:1:2:1:2: 0.5; the humectant is glycerol, butanediol and 1, 2-propylene glycol in a mass ratio of 1:1: 0.1; the skin conditioning agent is tocopherol acetate; the thickening agent is carbomer and sodium polyacrylate in a mass ratio of 1: 1; the preservative is ethylhexyl glycerol, 1, 2-hexanediol and caprylyl hydroximic acid in a mass ratio of 1:1: 1; the pH regulator is tromethamine;
the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
1) weighing the raw materials according to the mass for later use;
2) uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and water accounting for 40% of the water by mass to obtain a phase B;
4) stirring and mixing the preservative and water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase C;
5) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, skin-friendly peptide and saccharide isomer
Figure BDA0003605160220000152
Stirring and mixing the phase D with water accounting for 20% of the mass of the water uniformly to obtain a phase D;
6) mixing the hibiscus bark extract with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain an E phase;
7) stirring and mixing the A, B, C, D, E phases uniformly, then adding a pH regulator, and continuing stirring to obtain a composition;
the stirring temperature of the steps 2) to 7) is 50 ℃, the stirring time is 0.4h, and the stirring speed is 500 r/min.
Comparative example 1: the only difference from example 1 is: hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol is omitted, and the amount of the hibiscus bark extract is adjusted to 2.6 parts.
Comparative example 2: the only difference from example 1 is: the ceramide NP was omitted, and the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol was adjusted to 2.3 parts.
Comparative example 3: the only difference from example 1 is: the shrubalthea bark extract was omitted, and the amount of ceramide NP was adjusted to 0.9 part.
Comparative example 4: the only difference from example 1 is: the hibiscus bark extract and ceramide NP were omitted, and the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol was adjusted to 2.9 parts.
Comparative example 5: the only difference from example 1 is: omit
Figure BDA0003605160220000161
Adjusting the dosage parts of skin-care peptideIs 0.9 part.
Comparative example 6: the only difference from example 1 is: omitting skin-benefit peptide, will
Figure BDA0003605160220000162
The amount of the additive is adjusted to 0.9 part.
Comparative example 7: the only difference from example 1 is: inulin lauryl carbamate was omitted and the amount of water was adjusted to 63.4 parts.
And (3) stability testing: stability analysis was performed on examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-7, with reference to the skin cream QB/T1857-.
(1) And (3) heat resistance test: the compositions obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 were allowed to stand at 48 ℃ for 90 days and observed.
(2) Cold resistance test: the compositions obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 were allowed to stand at-10 ℃ for 90 days and observed.
(3) And (3) testing cold and heat cycles: placing the compositions prepared in the examples 1-4 and the comparative examples 1-7 in an environment with the temperature of 48 ℃ and standing for 12 hours; the compositions prepared in examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-7 were placed at-10 deg.C; this cycle was repeated three times in succession.
The stability test results are as follows:
Figure BDA0003605160220000171
the test results in the table show that the composition does not generate the layering phenomenon after standing for 90 days at the temperature of 48 ℃ and 90 days at the temperature of minus 10 ℃, has better heat-resistant and cold-resistant stability, and is uniform in product cream products and not easy to generate the layering deterioration phenomenon; and the product still shows better uniformity in cold and hot cycle test, and still does not delaminate under the cycle test condition. Comparative example 7 of the present invention, in which the emulsion stabilizer was omitted, gave a composition having poor stability and being liable to cause delamination.
Wrinkle change test: 220 volunteers (all ages 45-55, 110 males and 110 females) were selected and randomly divided into 11 groups of 20 individuals (10 males and 10 females) per group. The compositions prepared in examples and comparative examples were subjected to skin wrinkle change test, respectively. The volunteer does not use any cosmetics or external medicine for smearing on the cheek of the tested part for one week. Before the experiment, volunteers cleaned their faces with the same cleansing product; each group of volunteers then applied the corresponding test product (inventive and comparative) to the cheek 2 times a day, each time at 1.2mg/cm2, evenly over the cheek, after 7 weeks of continuous use; the applied part of the subject was washed and the skin wrinkle changes were analyzed using a U.S. VISIA facial image analyzer at ambient temperature of 25 ± 1 ℃ and humidity of 50 ± 5%. The test results of each group were compared.
The wrinkle Change test results are as follows
Figure BDA0003605160220000181
Figure BDA0003605160220000191
The test results in the table show that the composition has obvious wrinkle reduction effect and better wrinkle resistance effect after being continuously used for a period of time; the wrinkle reduction rate of a tester can reach more than 60% by the products of the examples 1 to 4, wherein the wrinkle reduction rate can reach 65.5% by the optimal product of the example 1. As can be seen from comparison of comparative examples 1 to 4 and example 1, the anti-wrinkle effect of the composition of the present invention is greatly affected by hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, hibiscus bark extract and ceramide NP, and when one or two of the three are omitted, the anti-wrinkle effect of the obtained product is significantly reduced, and the comparison of the above test data can obtain that the three have a good synergistic effect of compounding on anti-wrinkle. Further, as is clear from comparison of comparative examples 5 to 6 with example 1, the peptide,
Figure BDA0003605160220000192
The anti-wrinkle effect of the composition is obviously increased, and the composition areCan improve the anti-wrinkle effect of the composition to a great extent. Compared with the prior art 7, the emulsion stabilizer is omitted, the anti-wrinkle effect of the product is obviously reduced, the main reason is that the emulsion stabilizer can increase the mixing effect of emulsions such as cream products and the like, so that the components of the product can be mixed more uniformly and the effect of uniform coating can be achieved, when the cream products do not contain the emulsion stabilizer, the dispersion and coating effects of the product are reduced, the effects of permeation, coating, absorption and the like of active ingredients are reduced, and the anti-wrinkle performance of the product is reduced.
And (4) testing the moisturizing effect: 220 volunteers (all ages 45-55, 110 males, 110 females) were selected and randomly divided into 11 groups of 20 individuals (10 males, 10 females) per group.
The using method comprises the following steps: the subjects cleaned the facial skin daily, wiped dry, and then applied 3g of the compositions of the examples and comparative examples by hand to the facial skin uniformly.
Skin moisture content test method: the moisture content of the left face was measured in an environment where the test environment temperature was 25 ℃ and the relative humidity was 50%, while the subject was allowed to remain calm. The left face was marked with 2 square test areas of 2CM × 2CM, and as test areas, the moisture content of the facial skin before and after 10 hours of use of the composition was measured using a model CM825 tester supplied by the german CK company, the test environment temperature was 25 ℃, the relative humidity was 50%, and the results were recorded and averaged.
The moisturizing effect test results are as follows
Figure BDA0003605160220000201
Figure BDA0003605160220000211
The test results in the table show that the composition has obvious skin moisture increase after being continuously used for 10 hours, and has better moisturizing effect; wherein, the products of examples 1-4 all achieve the moisture increment rate of the skin of the testersMore than 145%, wherein the optimum of example 1, the skin moisture increase rate reached 151.3%. As can be seen from comparison of comparative examples 1-4 and example 1, the composition of the present invention, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, hibiscus bark extract and ceramide NP have a good combination effect on moisture retention. As can be seen from comparison of comparative examples 5 to 6 with example 1, the peptide,
Figure BDA0003605160220000212
Can well improve the moisturizing effect of the product. Comparative example 7 of the present invention, in which the emulsion stabilizer was omitted, the moisturizing effect of the product was also significantly reduced.
Finally, it should be further noted that the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus.
While preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described, additional variations and modifications in those embodiments may occur to those skilled in the art once they learn of the basic inventive concepts. Therefore, it is intended that the appended claims be interpreted as including preferred embodiments and all such alterations and modifications as fall within the scope of the invention.
It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made in the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Thus, if such modifications and variations of the present invention fall within the scope of the claims of the present invention and their equivalents, the present invention is also intended to include such modifications and variations.

Claims (10)

1. A composition with anti-wrinkle effect is characterized in that: comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, peptide, saccharide isomer, cortex Hibisci extract, and ceramide NP.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein: the composition comprises 0.1-5% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.1-2% of saccharide isomer, 0.01-1% of hibiscus bark extract and 0.001-1% of ceramide NP.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein: the peptide is at least one of tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and nonapeptide-1, and is more preferably skin-friendly peptide; the saccharide isomer is
Figure FDA0003605160210000011
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein: the composition comprises 0.1-5% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.1-2% of saccharide isomer, 0.01-1% of shrubalthea bark extract, 0.001-1% of ceramide NP, 0.5-4% of emulsifier, 10-25% of emollient, 0.1-5% of skin conditioner and 0.1-1% of emulsion stabilizer by mass.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein: the composition also comprises one or at least two of 0.2-3% of thickening agent, 0.001-0.6% of preservative, 0.01-2% of pH regulator and 55-90% of solvent by mass.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein: the emulsifier is one or at least two of cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate and trideceth-6;
the emollient is selected from one or at least two of cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, polydimethylsiloxane, tri (ethyl hexanoate) glycerol, jojoba oil, ethylhexyl stearate and caprylate glycerol.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein: the humectant is one or at least two selected from glycerol, butanediol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, dextran, allantoin, hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate;
the skin conditioning agent is selected from one or at least two of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, squalane, tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, aminobutyric acid, creatine, glycine and threonine;
the thickening agent is one or at least two of sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, gelatin, carrageenan and Arabic gum;
the solvent is water.
8. A method of preparing a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising:
1) weighing the raw materials according to the dosage for later use;
2) uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and part of solvent water to obtain a phase B;
4) stirring and mixing the preservative and part of solvent water uniformly to obtain a phase C;
5) uniformly stirring and mixing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, peptide and saccharide isomerate with partial solvent water to obtain a phase D;
6) mixing the hibiscus bark extract with part of water to obtain phase E;
7) adding A, B, C, D, E phase into the reaction vessel, adding pH regulator, and stirring to obtain the composition.
9. The method for preparing the composition as claimed in claim 8, wherein the stirring temperatures in the steps 2) -7) are 20-60 ℃, the stirring time is 0.2-2h, and the stirring rotation speed is 100-1000 rpm.
10. Use of a composition with anti-wrinkle effect according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or obtained by the preparation method according to claims 8 to 9, characterized in that the composition is used in an anti-wrinkle cosmetic.
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