CN114712285B - Composition with anti-wrinkle effect and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Composition with anti-wrinkle effect and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN114712285B
CN114712285B CN202210414711.8A CN202210414711A CN114712285B CN 114712285 B CN114712285 B CN 114712285B CN 202210414711 A CN202210414711 A CN 202210414711A CN 114712285 B CN114712285 B CN 114712285B
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stirring
wrinkle
peptide
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CN114712285A (en
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潘武
黄全胜
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Haoyu Guangzhou Cosmetics Manufacturing Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

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Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition with an anti-wrinkle effect, and a preparation method and application thereof. The composition with the anti-wrinkle effect contains hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, peptide, saccharide isomerate, hibiscus bark extract and ceramide NP. The composition does not generate the phenomenon of layering when standing for 90 days at the temperature of 48 ℃ or 90 days at the temperature of minus 10 ℃, has better heat-resistant and cold-resistant stability, is uniform in product, and is not easy to generate the phenomenon of layering and deterioration; after the composition product is continuously used for 7 weeks, the wrinkle reducing effect is obvious, and the wrinkle reducing rate reaches more than 60%; after the continuous use for 10 hours, the moisture of the skin is obviously increased, and the increase rate is more than 145 percent.

Description

Composition with anti-wrinkle effect and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition with an anti-wrinkle effect, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
With the increase of people's age, the skin of people is continuously atrophied, relaxed, the wrinkles of the skin are increased and deepened, the color spots are enlarged and the pigment is deepened, namely the skin is continuously aged. The main factors causing human skin aging are the intrinsic physiological mechanism, diseases, external UV radiation, environmental pollution and the like of human body aging. The main cause of aging of human skin, as observed at the cellular level, is a decrease in the cell viability of the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. The reduction of the activity of epidermal layer cells leads to the reduction of skin barrier function and resistance, and simultaneously, under the stimulation of ultraviolet rays, cell metabolism disorder and pigment are continuously accumulated. Secondly, the cell viability of the dermis is reduced, and the collagen and elastin secretion of fibroblasts in the dermis is reduced; the collagen has strong water holding capacity, and the content of the collagen is reduced, so that the skin is loose and wrinkles are increased; elastin fibres have some supporting effect on the skin, and their reduction can lead to loss of elasticity of the skin. In addition, as the human body ages, the contraction of epidermal capillaries is reduced, the local blood circulation of the skin is insufficient, so that the nutrition and water supply of skin cells are insufficient, metabolic wastes cannot be discharged in time, and the skin cells slowly lose vitality.
However, with the improvement of living standard of people, people pay more and more attention to beauty pursuit, one embodiment is the attention to skin care and facial modification, however, many products on the market achieve the effect of covering wrinkles or have no good effect on anti-wrinkle, so the demand of the composition with the anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects under the increasing market demand is stronger and stronger.
The wrinkles refer to small fine lines and wrinkles formed by the skin affected by external environment to form free radicals, the free radicals destroy collagen and active substances in normal cell membrane tissues and oxidize cells. Facial wrinkles are divided into two types, atrophied wrinkles and hypertrophic wrinkles. Atrophic wrinkles refer to wrinkles that appear on thin, chapped and dry skin, such as countless fine wrinkles around the eyes; hypertrophic wrinkles are wrinkles that are indicated on oily skin, are not numerous and have dense and deep texture. Among them, the eye skin is the thinnest skin of the human body, is very delicate and fragile, and is easily damaged.
The active ingredients of the anti-aging, wrinkle-removing and moisturizing composition on the market at present are basically the components of Chinese herbal medicine extracts, collagen, peptide, epidermal growth factor, vitamins and derivatives thereof, coenzyme and the like. These materials are claimed to have anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects. However, at present, there are few products that can effectively penetrate skin to achieve significant anti-wrinkle effects, and a solution is needed for products for repairing the deep layers of the skin, preventing aging and resisting wrinkles.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to achieve the purposes of repairing the deep inside and outside skin, resisting wrinkles and preserving moisture, the invention provides a composition with an anti-wrinkle effect, and a preparation method and application thereof.
In one aspect, the present invention provides a composition having anti-wrinkle effects, which comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, a peptide, saccharide isomers, hibiscus bark extract, ceramide NP.
The amount of the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol used in the composition (mass percentage, the same applies hereinafter) is 0.1 to 5%, and may preferably be 0.1 to 4.8%, 0.5 to 4.5%, 0.7 to 4.3%, 0.9 to 4%, 1 to 3.5%, 1.5 to 3.4%, 1 to 3%, or the like. The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, CAS:439685-79-7, is a xylose derivative with an anti-aging active substance, can promote the synthesis of collagen, make the skin tougher and elastic, improve neck fine lines and prevent aging. Is a glycoprotein mixture derived from xylose. Since xylose is present in large amounts in beech trees and has the ability to promote the production of glycosaminoglycans, i.e. mucopolysaccharides (GAGs). As hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol extracted from beech tree, it has a similar action to xylose. Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol can induce biosynthesis of GAGs mucopolysaccharide and PG proteoglycan in superficial epidermal layers, and loss of GAGs and PG can cause reduction of skin water content and reduction of defense capability; the close connection of the epidermis and the dermis is effectively promoted, the dermis layer is better fixed, and the skin is stronger and more elastic; after long-term use, the facial wrinkle and fine lines are effectively improved, and the regeneration of damaged tissues is promoted.
The amount of the peptide in the composition is 0.1 to 2%, and may preferably be 0.15 to 1.9%, 0.2 to 1.9%, 0.3 to 1.8%, 0.4 to 1.7%, 0.5 to 1.5%, 0.8 to 1.3%, 0.9 to 1.2%, etc. Wherein the peptide can be at least one of tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and nonapeptide-1. Among them, tripeptide-1 is a signal peptide capable of inhibiting collagen carbonylation and stimulating the production of essential ECM proteins (collagen I and III, fibronectin, elastin, and laminin), thereby increasing skin firmness, promoting tissue renewal, and healing processes. NONAPEPTIDE-1, named NONAPEPTIDE-1 in English, is also called NONAPEPTIDE, and can be used for beautifying skin and removing freckles in cosmetics and skin care products. The molecular structure and action mechanism of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 are similar to those of botulinum toxin, and the botulinum toxin effectively smooths wrinkles, compacts skin, helps to recover skin luster and enables the face to show a younger outline by inhibiting nerve and muscle conduction. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is involved in competing for the site of SNAP-25 at the vacuolar complex, thereby affecting complex formation. If the vesicular complex is slightly unstable, the vesicles cannot effectively release neurotransmitters, thereby causing a decrease in muscle contraction and preventing the formation of wrinkles. Wherein the peptide can be derived from commercial skin-friendly peptides of a leisurely organism; the compound peptide has the functions of compacting skin, stimulating collagen synthesis, resisting wrinkle fine lines, stimulating essential ECM protein synthesis, promoting collagen growth capacity and repairing aged and fractured collagen elastic fibers; by inhibiting the conduction between nerves and muscles, wrinkles are effectively smoothed, the skin is compacted, the skin gloss is helped to be recovered, and the face shows a younger outline. The skin barrier function is enhanced, the skin moisture degree is maintained, the intercellular substance is increased, the intercellular adhesion is increased, the skin barrier function is maintained, the moisture of the dermis layer and the epidermis layer is not easy to escape and lose, the transdermal moisture loss is reduced, the moisture keeping effect is achieved, and the skin is continuously moistened.
The saccharide isomerate may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1-2%, and may preferably be 0.15-1.9%, 0.2-1.9%, 0.3-1.8%, 0.4-1.7%, 0.5-1.5%, 0.8-1.3%, 0.9-1.2%, etc. The saccharide isomerate is extracted from natural plant saccharide complex, is similar to carbohydrate complex in human body, and has good skin-friendly performance. The keratin of the horny layer is assisted in combining water by combining with free amino acid groups of lysine on the keratin in cells of the horny layer, and the keratin cannot be easily washed off, so that the lasting moisturizing effect is achieved. It is also effective in dry and low humidity environments. The saccharide isomerate may be derived from the Dismann company commercial product
Figure BDA0003605160220000041
The substance is 100% of natural plant-derived material, has similar composition to carbohydrate component in human skin, and has unique ability to bind on skin; the moisture can be preserved in real time and deeply, a water storage pool is formed, and the moisture can be preserved for 72 hours; help epidermal cells to hydrate more and better and improve the skin barrier; improving hydration and water retention of stratum corneum in a short period, and thus improving desquamation phenomenon in a medium to long period, and enhancing skin barrier function; the tension, itching and stabbing pain caused by dry skin are improved, and comfortable skin feeling is obtained; the skin is softer and smoother, the dandruff is reduced, and finally a healthier skin appearance is obtained; it can promote the expression of key genes acting in the skin barrier and up-regulate the gene expression levels of filaggrin, loricrin, hyaluronic acid synthase 3 and acid sphingomyelinaseAnd the softness and smoothness of the skin are improved.
The amount of the cortex Hibisci extract in the composition is 0.01-1%, preferably 0.02-0.95%, 0.05-0.9%, 0.1-0.9%, 0.2-0.8%, 0.3-0.7%, 0.4-0.6%, etc. The hibiscus bark extract can supplement energy to skin, re-stimulate and promote cell metabolism mechanism, revive skin cell activity and improve energy output and output rate; has effects in resisting oxidation, inhibiting cell oxidation, and inhibiting free radical formation; and has effects in removing wrinkles, and reducing facial deep wrinkles, superficial wrinkles and crow's feet.
The ceramide NP is preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 1%, and may be preferably 0.005 to 1%, 0.01 to 1%, 0.02 to 0.5%, 0.03 to 0.4%, 0.04 to 0.3%, 0.05 to 0.2%, 0.001 to 0.1%, or the like. The ceramide NP increases the ceramide content in the horny layer of the epidermis, and can improve the conditions of dry skin, desquamation, roughness and the like; meanwhile, ceramide can increase the thickness of the horny layer of epidermis, improve the water holding capacity of the skin, reduce wrinkles, enhance the elasticity of the skin and delay the skin aging.
Further, preferably, the composition comprises 0.1-5% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.1-2% of saccharide isomer, 0.01-1% of bark extract of shrubalthea, and 0.001-1% of ceramide NP.
Further, the peptide is preferably at least one of tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and nonapeptide-1, and more preferably skin-friendly peptide.
Further, the saccharide isomer is preferably
Figure BDA0003605160220000051
Further, it is preferred that the composition contains an emulsifier which may be selected from one or at least two of cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate, trideceth-6. The dosage of the emulsifier is 0.5-4%, preferably 0.5-3.5%, 0.7-3.2%, 1-3%, 1.5-2.5%, etc.
Further, it is preferable that the composition contains an emulsifier stabilizer, which may be selected from inulin lauryl carbamate, in an amount of 0.1-1%, preferably 0.2-0.8%, 0.3-0.7%, 0.4-0.6%, etc.
Further, it is preferred that the composition comprises an emollient selected from one or at least two of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, dimethicone, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil, ethylhexyl stearate, glyceryl caprylate. The amount of the emollient is 10-25%, preferably 12-24%, 14-22%, 15-20%, 16-18%, etc.
Further, the composition preferably contains a humectant selected from one or at least two of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, dextran, allantoin, hyaluronic acid, and sodium hyaluronate. The dosage of the humectant is 5-15%, preferably 6-13%, 6-12%, 6-11%, 7-10% and the like.
Further, it is preferable that the composition contains a skin conditioning agent selected from one or at least two of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, squalane, tetrahydro-methyl-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, aminobutyric acid, creatine, glycine and threonine. The amount of the skin conditioner is 0.1-5%, preferably 0.5-4%, 0.7-3%, 1-3%, 1.5-2.5%, etc.
Further, the preferred composition contains a thickening agent, and the thickening agent is selected from one or at least two of sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, gelatin, carrageenan and acacia gum. The amount of the thickener is 0.2-3%, preferably 0.5-2.8%, 0.7-2.6%, 1-2.5%, 1.5-2%, etc.
Further, the composition preferably contains a preservative selected from one or at least two of p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, sorbic acid and phenoxyethanol. The amount of the preservative is 0.001-0.6%, preferably 0.01-0.5%, 0.02-0.4%, 0.03-0.35%, 0.05-0.3%, etc.
Further, the composition preferably contains a pH regulator, and the pH regulator is selected from one or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, triethanolamine, diethanolamine and tromethamine. The dosage of the pH regulator is 0.01-2%, preferably 0.05-2.7%, 0.1-2.5%, 0.2-2%, 0.3-1.5%, etc.
Further, it is preferable that the composition contains a solvent, and the solvent is water. The dosage of the solvent is 55-90%, preferably 60-85%, 62-78%, 65-75% and the like.
Further, the composition comprises 0.1-5% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.1-2% of saccharide isomer, 0.01-1% of bark extract of shrubalthea, 0.001-1% of ceramide NP, 0.5-4% of emulsifier, and 10-25% of emollient.
Preferably, the composition comprises 0.1-5% hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.1-2% peptide, 0.1-2% saccharide isomer, 0.01-1% hibiscus bark extract, 0.001-1% ceramide NP, 0.5-4% emulsifier, 10-25% emollient, 0.1-5% skin conditioner, 0.1-1% emulsion stabilizer.
Preferably, the composition further comprises one or at least two of 0.2-3% of a thickening agent, 0.001-0.6% of a preservative, 0.01-2% of a pH adjusting agent, and 55-90% of a solvent.
Further, the present invention is not limited by the dosage form of the product; preferably, the composition can be prepared into dosage forms of cream, aqua, lotion, paste, essence, facial mask, and the like.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a composition having anti-wrinkle effect, comprising:
1) Weighing the raw materials according to the dosage for later use;
2) Uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) Uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and part of solvent water to obtain a phase B;
4) Stirring and mixing the preservative and part of solvent water uniformly to obtain a phase C;
5) Uniformly stirring and mixing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, peptide and saccharide isomer with part of solvent water to obtain a phase D;
6) Mixing the hibiscus bark extract with part of water to obtain phase E;
7) And adding the phases A, B, C, D and E into a reaction vessel, adding a pH regulator, and continuously stirring to obtain the composition.
Preferably, the stirring temperatures in steps 2) to 7) are all 20 to 60 ℃.
Preferably, the stirring time of steps 2) to 7) is 0.2 to 2h.
Preferably, the stirring speeds of steps 2) to 7) are all 100 to 1000 revolutions per minute.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a use of a composition having an anti-wrinkle effect, including a use of the composition having an anti-wrinkle effect in an anti-wrinkle cosmetic.
The beneficial technical effects are as follows:
the composition contains hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, peptide, saccharide isomer, hibiscus bark extract and ceramide NP. Wherein, the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol can induce the biosynthesis of GAGs mucopolysaccharide and PG proteoglycan in a superficial epidermal layer so as to prevent the water content of the skin from being reduced and the defense capability from being reduced; the close connection of the epidermis and the dermis is effectively promoted, the dermis layer is better fixed, and the skin is stronger and more elastic; effectively improve wrinkles and fine lines on the face and neck and promote the regeneration of damaged tissues. The hibiscus bark extract can supplement energy to skin, re-stimulate and promote cell metabolism mechanism, revive skin cell activity and improve energy output quantity and output rate; has effects in resisting oxidation, inhibiting cell oxidation, and inhibiting free radical formation; and has wrinkle removing effect, and can reduce facial deep wrinkle, superficial wrinkle and fishtail line. Ceramide NP increases ceramide content in horny layer of epidermis, and can improve skin dryness, desquamation, pachylosis, etc.; meanwhile, ceramide can increase the thickness of the horny layer of epidermis, improve the water holding capacity of the skin, reduce wrinkles, enhance the elasticity of the skin and delay the skin aging. The three components can be compounded and cooperated with each other, so as to achieve the effects of resisting wrinkles and replenishing water from inside to outside.
The saccharide isomerate can be combined on the skin, so that the saccharide isomerate can be instantly and deeply moisturized, help epidermal cells to hydrate more and better, improve the skin barrier, promote the expression of key genes playing a role in the skin barrier, and improve the softness and smoothness of the skin. The peptide substance can compact skin, stimulate collagen synthesis, resist wrinkle fine lines, stimulate essential ECM protein synthesis, promote collagen growth ability, and repair aged and fractured collagen elastic fibers; by inhibiting the conduction between nerves and muscles, wrinkles are effectively smoothed, the skin is compacted, the skin gloss is helped to be recovered, and the face shows a younger outline. The skin barrier function is enhanced, the skin moisture degree is maintained, the intercellular substance is increased, the intercellular adhesion is increased, the skin barrier function is maintained, the moisture of the dermis layer and the epidermis layer is not easy to escape and lose, the transdermal moisture loss is reduced, the moisture retaining effect is achieved, and the skin is continuously moisturized. The anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects of the product are improved to a great extent, and the anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects are reasonably compounded to achieve an excellent technical effect.
The composition does not generate the layering phenomenon after standing for 90 days at the temperature of 48 ℃ and 90 days at the temperature of minus 10 ℃, has better heat-resistant and cold-resistant stability, and has uniform product frost products and difficult layering deterioration phenomenon; and the product still shows better uniformity in cold and hot cycle test, and still does not delaminate under the cycle test condition.
After the composition is continuously used for 7 weeks, the wrinkle reducing effect is obvious, and the wrinkle reducing rate reaches more than 60%.
After the composition is continuously used for 10 hours, the skin moisture is obviously increased, the moisturizing effect is better, and the skin moisture increase rate is more than 145% after the composition is used for 10 hours.
After the emulsion stabilizer is omitted, the stability, wrinkle resistance and moisturizing effect of the product are obviously reduced.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments and examples, and the advantages and various effects of the present invention will be more clearly apparent therefrom. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that these specific embodiments and examples are illustrative of the invention and are not to be construed as limiting the invention.
Throughout the specification, unless otherwise specifically noted, terms used herein should be understood as having meanings as commonly used in the art. Accordingly, unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. If there is a conflict, the present specification will control.
Unless otherwise specifically stated, various raw materials, reagents, instruments, equipment and the like used in the present invention are commercially available or can be prepared by existing methods.
Example 1:
a skin cream composition with an anti-wrinkle effect comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 2 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.5 part of skin-friendly peptide and 0.4 part of skin-friendly peptide
Figure BDA0003605160220000111
0.6 part of hibiscus bark extract, 0.3 part of ceramide NP, 2 parts of emulsifier, 0.3 part of emulsion stabilizer, 15 parts of emollient, 10 parts of humectant, 4 parts of skin conditioner, 1 part of thickener, 0.3 part of preservative, 0.5 part of pH regulator and 63.1 parts of water;
wherein the emulsifier is cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate, tridecyl polyether-6, and the mass ratio is 1; the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate; the emollient is cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, polydimethylsiloxane, tri (ethyl hexanoate) glyceride, jojoba seed oil, ethylhexyl stearate, caprylic glyceride, in a mass ratio of 2; the humectant is glycerol, butanediol and 1, 2-propylene glycol, and the mass ratio of the humectant is 1; the skin conditioning agent is tocopherol acetate; the thickening agent is carbomer and sodium polyacrylate, and the mass ratio is 1; the preservative is p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, 1, 2-hexanediol and caprylyl hydroxamic acid, and the mass ratio is (2); the pH regulator is tromethamine;
the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
1) Weighing the raw materials according to the mass for later use;
2) Uniformly stirring and mixing the emulsifier, the emulsion stabilizer, the emollient, the skin conditioner and the ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) Uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and water accounting for 40% of the water by mass to obtain a phase B;
4) Stirring and mixing the preservative and water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase C;
5) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, skin-friendly peptide and saccharide isomer
Figure BDA0003605160220000121
Stirring and mixing the phase D with water accounting for 20% of the mass of the water uniformly to obtain a phase D;
6) Mixing the hibiscus bark extract with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain an E phase;
7) Uniformly stirring and mixing the phases A, B, C, D and E, then adding a pH regulator, and continuously stirring to obtain a composition;
the stirring temperature of the steps 2) to 7) is 50 ℃, the stirring time is 0.4h, and the stirring speed is 500 r/min.
Example 2:
a skin cream composition with an anti-wrinkle effect comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 3 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.2 part of skin-friendly peptide and 0.1 part of skin-friendly peptide
Figure BDA0003605160220000122
0.01 part of hibiscus bark extract, 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2 parts of emulsifier, 0.3 part of emulsion stabilizer, 15 parts of emollient, 10 parts of humectant, 4 parts of skin conditioner, 1 part of thickener, 0.3 part of preservative, 0.5 part of pH regulator and 63.39 parts of water;
wherein the emulsifier is cetearyl olivate; the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate; the emollient is cetyl ethyl hexanoate and isononyl isononanoate, and the mass ratio is 2; the humectant is glycerol and 1, 2-propylene glycol, and the mass ratio is 1; the skin conditioning agent is tocopherol acetate; the thickening agent is carbomer and sodium polyacrylate, and the mass ratio is 1; the preservative is p-hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexyl glycerol and caprylyl hydroximic acid, and the mass ratio is 2; the pH regulator is tromethamine;
the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
1) Weighing the raw materials according to the mass for later use;
2) Uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) Uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and water accounting for 40% of the water by mass to obtain a phase B;
4) Stirring and mixing the preservative and water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase C;
5) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, skin-friendly peptide and saccharide isomer
Figure BDA0003605160220000131
Stirring and mixing the phase D with water accounting for 20% of the mass of the water uniformly to obtain a phase D;
6) Mixing the hibiscus bark extract with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain an E phase;
7) Uniformly stirring and mixing the phases A, B, C, D and E, then adding a pH regulator, and continuously stirring to obtain a composition;
the stirring temperature of the steps 2) to 7) is 50 ℃, the stirring time is 0.4h, and the stirring speed is 500 r/min.
Example 3:
a skin cream composition with an anti-wrinkle effect comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 1 part of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.4 part of skin optimizing peptide and 0.3 part of skin optimizing peptide
Figure BDA0003605160220000132
0.5 part of hibiscus bark extract, 0.4 part of ceramide NP, 2 parts of emulsifier, 0.3 part of emulsion stabilizer, 15 parts of emollient, 10 parts of humectant, 4 parts of skin conditioner, 1 part of thickener, 0.3 part of preservative, 0.5 part of pH regulator and 64.3 parts of water;
wherein the emulsifier is sorbitan olive oleate and tridecyl polyether-6, and the mass ratio is 1; the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate; the emollient is cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isononyl isononanoate and jojoba seed oil, and the mass ratio is 2; the humectant is glycerol, butanediol and 1, 2-propylene glycol, and the mass ratio is 1; the skin conditioning agent is tocopherol acetate; the thickening agent is carbomer and sodium polyacrylate, and the mass ratio is 1; the preservative is p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio is 2; the pH regulator is tromethamine;
the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
1) Weighing the raw materials according to the mass for later use;
2) Uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) Uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and water accounting for 40% of the water by mass to obtain a phase B;
4) Uniformly stirring and mixing the preservative and water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase C;
5) The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, the skin optimizing peptide and the saccharide isomer
Figure BDA0003605160220000141
Stirring and mixing evenly with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase D;
6) Mixing the hibiscus bark extract with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain an E phase;
7) Uniformly stirring and mixing the phases A, B, C, D and E, then adding a pH regulator, and continuously stirring to obtain a composition;
the stirring temperature of the steps 2) to 7) is 50 ℃, the stirring time is 0.4h, and the stirring speed is 500 r/min.
Example 4:
a skin cream composition with an anti-wrinkle effect comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 0.5 part of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.7 part of skin optimizing peptide and 0.6 part of skin optimizing peptide
Figure BDA0003605160220000151
0.2 partThe skin care lotion comprises hibiscus bark extract, 0.5 part of ceramide NP, 2 parts of emulsifier, 0.3 part of emulsion stabilizer, 15 parts of emollient, 10 parts of humectant, 4 parts of skin conditioner, 1 part of thickener, 0.3 part of preservative, 0.5 part of pH regulator and 64.4 parts of water;
wherein the emulsifier is sorbitan olive oleate and tridecyl polyether-6, and the mass ratio is 1; the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate; the emollient is isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), jojoba oil, ethylhexyl stearate and glyceryl caprylate, and the mass ratio is 2; the humectant is glycerol, butanediol and 1, 2-propylene glycol, and the mass ratio of the humectant is 1; the skin conditioning agent is tocopherol acetate; the thickening agent is carbomer and sodium polyacrylate, and the mass ratio is 1; the preservative is ethylhexyl glycerol, 1, 2-hexanediol and caprylyl hydroximic acid, and the mass ratio is 1; the pH regulator is tromethamine;
the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
1) Weighing the raw materials according to the mass for later use;
2) Uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) Uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and water accounting for 40% of the water by mass to obtain a phase B;
4) Stirring and mixing the preservative and water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain a phase C;
5) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, skin-friendly peptide and saccharide isomer
Figure BDA0003605160220000152
Stirring and mixing the phase D with water accounting for 20% of the mass of the water uniformly to obtain a phase D;
6) Mixing the hibiscus bark extract with water accounting for 20% of the water by mass to obtain an E phase;
7) Uniformly stirring and mixing the A, B, C, D and E phases, then adding a pH regulator, and continuously stirring to obtain a composition;
the stirring temperature of the steps 2) -7) is 50 ℃, the stirring time is 0.4h, and the stirring speed is 500 r/min.
Comparative example 1: the only difference from example 1 is: hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol is omitted, and the amount of the hibiscus bark extract is adjusted to 2.6 parts.
Comparative example 2: the only difference from example 1 is: the ceramide NP was omitted, and the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol was adjusted to 2.3 parts.
Comparative example 3: the only difference from example 1 is: the hibiscus bark extract was omitted and the amount of ceramide NP was adjusted to 0.9 part.
Comparative example 4: the only difference from example 1 is: the hibiscus bark extract and the ceramide NP were omitted, and the amount of the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol was adjusted to 2.9 parts.
Comparative example 5: the only difference from example 1 is: omit
Figure BDA0003605160220000161
The dosage part of the skin-friendly peptide is adjusted to 0.9 part.
Comparative example 6: the only difference from example 1 is: omitting skin-benefit peptide, will
Figure BDA0003605160220000162
The amount of the additive is adjusted to 0.9 part.
Comparative example 7: the only difference from example 1 is: inulin lauryl carbamate was omitted and the amount of water was adjusted to 63.4 parts.
And (3) stability testing: stability analyses were performed on examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-7, with reference to the performance criteria for skin cream QB/T1857-2013.
(1) And (3) heat resistance test: the compositions obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 were allowed to stand at 48 ℃ for 90 days and observed.
(2) Cold resistance test: the compositions obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 were allowed to stand at-10 ℃ for 90 days and observed.
(3) And (3) testing cold and heat cycles: placing the compositions prepared in the examples 1-4 and the comparative examples 1-7 in an environment with the temperature of 48 ℃ and standing for 12 hours; the compositions prepared in examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-7 were placed at-10 deg.C; this cycle was repeated three times in succession.
The stability test results are as follows:
Figure BDA0003605160220000171
the test results in the table show that the composition does not generate the layering phenomenon after standing for 90 days at the temperature of 48 ℃ and 90 days at the temperature of minus 10 ℃, has better heat resistance and cold resistance stability, and is uniform in product frost products and not easy to generate the layering deterioration phenomenon; and the product still shows better uniformity in cold and hot cycle test, and still does not delaminate under the cycle test condition. Comparative example 7 of the present invention, in which the emulsion stabilizer was omitted, gave a composition having poor stability and being liable to cause delamination.
Wrinkle change test: 220 volunteers (all ages 45-55, 110 males and 110 females) were selected and randomly divided into 11 groups of 20 individuals (10 males and 10 females) per group. The compositions prepared in examples and comparative examples were subjected to skin wrinkle change test, respectively. The volunteer does not use any cosmetics or external medicine for smearing on the cheek of the tested part for one week. Before the experiment, volunteers cleaned their faces with the same cleansing product; then each group of volunteers applied the corresponding test product (inventive example and comparative example) to the cheek 2 times a day, each time in an amount of 1.2mg/cm2, and after 7 weeks of continuous use; the applied part of the subject was washed and the skin wrinkle changes were analyzed using a U.S. VISIA facial image analyzer at ambient temperature of 25 ± 1 ℃ and humidity of 50 ± 5%. The test results of each group were compared.
The wrinkle Change test results are as follows
Figure BDA0003605160220000181
Figure BDA0003605160220000191
The test results in the table show that the composition has obvious wrinkle reduction effect and better wrinkle resistance effect after being continuously used for a period of time; among them, the products of examples 1-4 all achieved wrinkle reduction rates of more than 60% for the testers, and among them, the wrinkle reduction rate of 65.5% can be achieved with the best of example 1. As can be seen from comparison of comparative examples 1 to 4 of the present invention with example 1, the anti-wrinkle effect of the composition of the present invention is greatly affected by hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, hibiscus bark extract, and ceramide NP, and when one or two of the three are omitted, the anti-wrinkle effect of the obtained product is significantly reduced, and the above test data can be compared, and the three have a good synergistic effect of compounding on anti-wrinkle. Further, as is clear from comparison of comparative examples 5 to 6 with example 1, the peptide,
Figure BDA0003605160220000192
The anti-wrinkle effect of the composition is obviously improved, and the anti-wrinkle effect of the composition can be greatly improved. Compared with the prior art, the emulsion stabilizer is omitted in the invention in comparative example 7, the anti-wrinkle effect of the product is obviously reduced, the main reason is that the emulsion stabilizer can increase the mixing effect of the emulsion such as cream products and the like, so that the components of the product can be mixed more uniformly and the effect of uniform coating can be achieved, when the cream products do not contain the emulsion stabilizer, the dispersion and coating effects of the product are reduced, the effects of penetration, coating, absorption and the like of active ingredients are reduced, and the anti-wrinkle performance of the product is reduced.
And (4) testing the moisturizing effect: 220 volunteers (all ages 45-55, 110 males and 110 females) were selected and randomly divided into 11 groups of 20 individuals (10 males and 10 females) per group.
The using method comprises the following steps: the subjects cleaned the facial skin daily, wiped dry, and then applied 3g of the compositions of the examples and comparative examples by hand to the facial skin uniformly.
Skin moisture content test method: the moisture content of the left face was measured in an environment where the test environment temperature was 25 ℃ and the relative humidity was 50%, while the subject was allowed to stand still. The left face was marked with 2 square test areas of 2CM × 2CM, and as test areas, the moisture content of the facial skin before and after 10 hours of use of the composition was measured using a model CM825 tester supplied by the german CK company, the test environment temperature was 25 ℃, the relative humidity was 50%, and the results were recorded and averaged.
The moisturizing effect test results are as follows
Figure BDA0003605160220000201
Figure BDA0003605160220000211
The test results in the table show that the composition has obvious skin moisture increase after being continuously used for 10 hours, and has better moisturizing effect; the products of examples 1-4 all lead the skin moisture increasing rate of the testers to reach more than 145%, wherein the skin moisture increasing rate reaches 151.3% in the best mode of example 1. As can be seen from comparison of comparative examples 1-4 and example 1, the composition of the present invention, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, hibiscus bark extract and ceramide NP have a good combination effect on moisture retention. As can be seen from comparison of comparative examples 5 to 6 with example 1, the peptide,
Figure BDA0003605160220000212
Can well improve the moisturizing effect of the product. Comparative example 7 of the present invention, in which the emulsion stabilizer was omitted, the moisturizing effect of the product was also significantly reduced.
Finally, it should be further noted that the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus.
While preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described, additional variations and modifications in those embodiments may occur to those skilled in the art once they learn of the basic inventive concepts. Therefore, it is intended that the appended claims be interpreted as including preferred embodiments and all such alterations and modifications as fall within the scope of the invention.
It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made in the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Thus, if such modifications and variations of the present invention fall within the scope of the claims of the present invention and their equivalents, the present invention is also intended to include such modifications and variations.

Claims (7)

1. A cosmetic composition with anti-wrinkle effect is characterized in that: the composition is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 0.1-5% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.1-2% of saccharide isomer, 0.01-1% of shrubalthea bark extract, 0.001-1% of ceramide NP, 0.5-4% of emulsifier, 10-25% of emollient, 0.1-5% of skin conditioner, 0.1-1% of emulsion stabilizer, 5-15% of humectant, 0.2-3% of thickener, 0.001-0.6% of preservative, 0.01-2% of pH regulator and 55-90% of solvent, wherein the peptide is skin-conditioning peptide from Youyan organism; said saccharide isomerate is pentaavitin from disemann; the emulsifier is one or at least two of cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate and trideceth-6; the emollient is one or at least two selected from cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, polydimethylsiloxane, glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), jojoba oil, ethylhexyl stearate and glycerol caprylate; the skin conditioning agent is selected from one or at least two of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, squalane, tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, aminobutyric acid, creatine, glycine and threonine; the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate; the humectant is one or at least two selected from glycerol, butanediol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, dextran, allantoin, hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate; the solvent is water.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein: the thickening agent is one or at least two of sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, gelatin, carrageenan and Arabic gum.
3. The composition of claim 1, wherein: the preservative is selected from one or at least two of p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, sorbic acid and phenoxyethanol.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein: the pH regulator is one or more selected from citric acid, sodium citrate, triethanolamine, diethanolamine and tromethamine.
5. A method of preparing the composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising:
1) Weighing the raw materials according to the dosage for later use;
2) Uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;
3) Uniformly stirring and mixing the thickening agent, the humectant and part of solvent water to obtain a phase B;
4) Stirring and mixing the preservative and part of solvent water uniformly to obtain a phase C;
5) Uniformly stirring and mixing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, peptide and saccharide isomerate with partial solvent water to obtain a phase D;
6) Mixing the hibiscus bark extract with part of water to obtain phase E;
7) And adding the phases A, B, C, D and E into a reaction vessel, adding a pH regulator, and continuously stirring to obtain the composition.
6. A process for preparing the composition according to claim 5, wherein the stirring temperatures in steps 2) to 7) are 20 to 60 ℃, the stirring times are 0.2 to 2 hours, and the stirring speeds are 100 to 1000 rpm.
7. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or a composition obtained by a process according to any one of claims 5 to 6, for the preparation of an anti-wrinkle cosmetic product.
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