CN111388394B

CN111388394B - Biphase freeze-dried powder solvent and preparation method and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111388394B
Application number: CN202010321314.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 卢桂田; 陈家艺; 高合意; 魏雪晴
Original assignee: Guangzhou Ridgepole Biological Technology Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Ridgepole Biological Technology Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-04-22
Filing date: 2020-04-22
Publication date: 2022-07-05
Anticipated expiration: 2040-04-22
Also published as: CN111388394A

Abstract

The invention provides a biphase freeze-dried powder solvent and a preparation method and application thereof. The two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent comprises an oil phase component and a water phase component, wherein the oil phase component comprises ceramide, phytosterol oleate, soybean oil, an antioxidant and base oil. The two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent provided by the invention comprises an upper oil phase and a lower water phase, wherein the oil phase component is added with phytosterol oleate, wild soybean oil and ceramide, and the phytosterol oleate, the wild soybean oil and the ceramide are coordinated and matched, so that the obtained oil phase component is matched with the sebum component of a human body, the skin can be protected from inside to outside, a complete oil film is formed on the outside, and the water locking capacity and the repairing capacity of the skin are enhanced. And the oil phase component and the water-oil component are scientifically and reasonably proportioned, so that the skin permeation effect of the active ingredients of the freeze-dried powder can be further improved, the moisture-preserving and water-locking effects of the freeze-dried powder are enhanced, and the freeze-dried powder has remarkable effects of preserving moisture and brightening skin.

Description

Biphase freeze-dried powder solvent and preparation method and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of daily chemical industry, relates to a freeze-dried powder solvent and a preparation method and application thereof, and particularly relates to a water-oil two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent and a preparation method and application thereof.

Background

The skin is divided into epidermis, which is a superficial structure of the skin and is composed of multiple layers of flat epithelium, and dermis. The layers from the basal layer to the surface can be divided into five layers, namely, basal layer, spinous layer, granular layer, stratum lucidum and stratum corneum. The surface of the stratum corneum of the skin has a sebaceous membrane formed by fusing fat secreted from sebaceous glands of the skin, lipid produced by keratinocytes and sweat secreted from sweat glands in a certain ratio. The sebum membrane covers the outermost layers of the skin and includes triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free fatty acids and cholesterol.

In the research, the content of sebum components in sub-healthy skin such as acne muscle, sensitive muscle and the like is obviously different from that of healthy skin, the content of linoleic acid, ceramide and the like is lower than that of the healthy skin, and the content of cholesterol is also obviously changed. These ingredients are important for maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier, improving the symptoms of skin lesions, reducing the loss of water from the skin, and enhancing the moisturizing ability of the skin.

The freeze-dried powder is used as a novel cosmetic preparation, does not need to be subjected to thermal processing, can effectively keep the stability of active ingredients, and maintains the good skin care effect of the product. However, the solvent of the existing freeze-dried powder is mainly an aqueous solution, and in the freeze-dried powder solution obtained after solvent recovery, a single water aqua causes poor moisturizing effect and influences the long-term effect of the functional components in skin.

CN110420166A discloses a formula and a preparation method of a lyophilized powder with moisturizing and repairing effects, wherein the lyophilized powder comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10-20% of hydrolyzed placenta extract, 5-10% of hydrolyzed collagen, 1.5-7% of sodium hyaluronate, 5-10% of mannitol, 10-20% of bioglycan and 100% of sterile deionized water; the functional components are all in the freeze-dried powder, so that the efficacy of the freeze-dried powder can be effectively maintained, but the solvent is not optimized, and the skin repair effect is not obvious.

CN110237022A discloses a freeze-dried powder, a solvent and application thereof, and optimizes the solvent to provide the efficacy of the freeze-dried powder, wherein the solvent comprises the following components by mass percent: 0.1 to 10.0 percent of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, 0.1 to 10.0 percent of glycogen, 0.1 to 10.0 percent of hydrolyzed collagen, 0.2 to 10.0 percent of vitamin, 0.2 to 20.0 percent of transdermal penetration enhancer and the balance of water; the main optimization effect of the composition is to promote the absorption of the components of the freeze-dried powder and enhance the moisturizing effect by improving the content of water-soluble components, but the repair effect of the obtained product is not obvious.

Therefore, in order to further improve the moisturizing and repairing effects of the lyophilized powder, the improvement of the solvent used with the lyophilized powder is needed.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a biphase freeze-dried powder solvent and a preparation method and application thereof. The two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent comprises an oil phase component and a water phase component, can regulate skin cells from the inside, forms complete grease film protection outside the epidermis, is matched with freeze-dried powder for use, and can have good moisturizing and repairing effects.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

in a first aspect, the invention provides a two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent with a lower layer of a water phase, an upper layer of an oil phase and a water-oil double layer, wherein the two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent comprises an oil phase component and a water phase component, and the oil phase component comprises ceramide, phytosterol oleic acid, wild soybean oil, an antioxidant and base oil.

The two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent provided by the invention has water-oil two phases, namely the solvent is divided into a water-oil double layer, the lower layer of the solvent is a water phase, and the upper layer of the solvent is an oil phase; the water phase can dissolve the freeze-dried powder, so that the water locking capacity in skin cells is enhanced; the oil phase component is added with ceramide, phytosterol oleic acid and wild soybean oil, the three components are mild and skin-friendly, cooperate with each other, are matched with the sebum component of a human body, can regulate skin cells from the inside, form a complete oil film outside the epidermis for protection, and obviously enhance the water locking capacity of the skin barrier.

As a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the oil phase components comprise the following components in parts by weight: 1-4 parts of ceramide, 0.5-1.0 part of phytosterol oleate, 0.5-1.5 parts of wild soybean oil, 0.05-1 part of antioxidant and 10-15 parts of base oil.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the ceramide, the phytosterol oleate and the wild soybean oil is (2.5-3.5): 0.5-1):1, and can be, for example, 2.5:0.5:1, 3:0.5:1, 3.5:0.5:1, 2.5:0.8:1, 2.5:1:1, 2.8:0.8:1, 3:1:1, 3.5:0.8:1 or 3.5:1:1, and the like.

According to the invention, the weight ratio of the ceramide to the phytosterol oleate to the wild soybean oil is more critical, and when the ratio of the ceramide to the phytosterol oleate to the wild soybean oil is close to 3:1:1, the synergistic effect among the ceramide to the phytosterol oleate and the wild soybean oil is better, and the repair effect of the obtained biphase freeze-dried powder solvent is better.

The weight portion of the ceramide is 1 to 4 portions, and may be, for example, 1 portion, 1.3 portions, 1.5 portions, 1.9 portions, 2.2 portions, 2.3 portions, 2.4 portions, 2.6 portions, 2.8 portions, 2.7 portions, 3.0 portions, 3.1 portions, 3.2 portions, 3.5 portions, 3.6 portions, 3.7 portions, 4.0 portions, or the like. Ceramides are important components of stratum corneum cells, have a water-retaining effect and are closely related to the percutaneous water loss (TEWL), and can also inhibit the production of inflammatory factors. Preferably, the ceramide comprises ceramide-1 and/or ceramide 3.

The phytosterol oleate is 0.5-1.0 part by weight, and may be, for example, 0.5 part, 0.55 part, 0.6 part, 0.7 part, 0.85 part, 0.9 part or 1.0 part.

The weight portion of the wild soybean oil is 0.5-1.5 parts, for example, 0.5 part, 0.55 part, 0.6 part, 0.7 part, 0.85 part, 0.9 part, 1.0 part, 1.2 parts, 1.3 parts or 1.5 parts, etc. The wild soybean oil is oil extracted from soybean, and has yellowish color, transparency, clarity, and large amount of unsaturated fatty acid.

The base oil is 10 to 15 parts by weight, and may be, for example, 10 parts, 10.2 parts, 10.5 parts, 11 parts, 11.4 parts, 11.8 parts, 12 parts, 12.5 parts, 13 parts, 13.5 parts, 14 parts, 14.5 parts, 15 parts, or the like.

The antioxidant may be present in an amount of 0.05 to 1 part by weight, and may be, for example, 0.05 part, 0.07 part, 0.09 part, 0.12 part, 0.15 part, 0.2 part, 0.4 part, 0.5 part, 0.6 part, 0.7 part, 0.85 part, 0.9 part, or 1.0 part.

Preferably, the antioxidant comprises tocopherol. The tocopherol is an antioxidant, can effectively prevent the oxidation of oil in a solvent and maintain the stability.

Preferably, the base oil comprises any one or a combination of at least two of sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, grape seed oil, rose hip oil or olive oil, preferably sweet almond oil. Sweet almond oil is base oil which is quite soft, mild and easy to absorb, has the functions of nourishing, moisturizing, relaxing and resisting allergy, and has a certain function of isolating ultraviolet rays.

As the preferable technical scheme of the invention, the aqueous phase component in the solvent of the biphase freeze-dried powder comprises plant extract, humectant and water.

Preferably, the water phase component comprises 1.5-8 parts of plant extract, 0.5-10 parts of humectant and 80-90 parts of water by weight.

The weight portion of the plant extract is 1.5-8, such as 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5 or 8.

The humectant is 0.5 to 10 parts by weight, and may be, for example, 1 part, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, 4 parts, 4.5 parts, 5 parts, 6 parts, 7 parts, 8 parts, 9 parts, 10 parts, or the like.

The water is 80-90 parts by weight, such as 80 parts, 81 parts, 82 parts, 83 parts, 84 parts, 85 parts, 86 parts, 87 parts, 88 parts, 89 parts or 90 parts.

Preferably, the plant extract comprises any one or a combination of at least two of coral algae extract, crocus sativus extract, tea extract or centella asiatica extract, preferably a combination comprising coral algae extract and crocus sativus extract. Typical but non-limiting examples of such combinations are combinations of coral algae extract and saffron extract, combinations of coral algae extract and tea extract, combinations of saffron extract and centella asiatica extract, coral algae extract, combinations of saffron extract and tea extract, and the like.

Preferably, the humectant comprises any one of glycerol glucoside, glycerol, butylene glycol or sodium hyaluronate or a combination of at least two of them. The glycerol glucoside can stimulate aquaporins in cells of the stratum corneum to supplement water for the cells, and can also activate filaggrin to promote water to stay in the stratum corneum.

Preferably, the water phase component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-5 parts of coral algae extract, 0.5-3 parts of crocus extract, 0.5-3 parts of glycerol glucoside and 80-90 parts of water. In the invention, the water phase component has a large influence on the long-acting moisturizing effect of a freeze-dried powder solvent.

The coral algae extract is 1-5 parts by weight, such as 1.0 part, 1.2 parts, 1.3 parts, 1.5 parts, 1.7 parts, 1.8 parts, 2.0 parts, 2.2 parts, 2.4 parts, 2.5 parts, 3.0 parts, 3.5 parts, 4.0 parts, 4.5 parts, or 5.0 parts. The coral algae extract is a natural moisturizing emollient, can promote cell regeneration, enhance skin metabolism, and prevent wrinkle, and is suitable for various skin types.

The weight portion of the crocus sativus extract is 0.5-3 parts, for example, 0.5 part, 0.7 part, 0.85 part, 1.0 part, 1.2 parts, 1.3 parts, 1.5 parts, 1.7 parts, 1.8 parts, 2.0 parts, 2.2 parts, 2.4 parts, 2.5 parts, 2.7 parts, 2.8 parts or 3.0 parts. The crocus sativus extract can effectively promote the synthesis of filaggrin, increase the synthesis of natural moisturizing factors and ensure the water content of the horny layer; it also has effects of reducing inflammatory factor TNF-alpha concentration, thereby reducing skin inflammation reaction such as red blood streak, erythema, swelling, etc., and maintaining skin stability.

The glycerol glucoside may be used in an amount of 0.5 to 3 parts by weight, for example, 0.5 part, 0.7 part, 0.85 part, 1.0 part, 1.2 parts, 1.3 parts, 1.5 parts, 1.7 parts, 1.8 parts, 2.0 parts, 2.2 parts, 2.4 parts, 2.5 parts, 2.7 parts, 2.8 parts, or 3.0 parts.

As a preferable embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous phase component further comprises 1 to 3 parts by weight (for example, 1.2 parts, 1.4 parts, 1.5 parts, 1.6 parts, 1.8 parts, 2 parts, 2.2 parts, 2.4 parts, 2.5 parts, 2.6 parts, 2.8 parts, or 3 parts) of glycerin.

Preferably, the aqueous phase component further comprises 1-3 parts (for example, 1.2 parts, 1.4 parts, 1.5 parts, 1.6 parts, 1.8 parts, 2 parts, 2.2 parts, 2.4 parts, 2.5 parts, 2.6 parts, 2.8 parts or 3 parts) by weight of butanediol.

Preferably, the aqueous phase component further comprises 0.5-1 part (for example, 0.5 part, 0.6 part, 0.7 part, 0.8 part, 0.9 part or 1 part) by weight of sodium hyaluronate.

The mass ratio of the oil phase components is 4-10%, for example, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, or 10%, preferably 4.5% -6%, and more preferably 5%, based on 100% of the mass in the biphasic lyophilized powder solvent.

In the invention, the content of the oil phase component is not more than 10%, which affects the absorption speed and the cleaness of the preparation, and indicates that the skin feel is affected by too much oil content; if the amount is less than 4%, the oil phase component is too small to exert the moisturizing effect.

Preferably, the oil phase component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 32 to 3.5 portions of ceramide, 0.5 to 1.0 portion of phytosterol oleate, 0.5 to 1.0 portion of wild soybean oil, 10 to 13 portions of sweet almond oil and 0.5 to 1 portion of tocopherol.

In the present invention, the oil phase component may preferably include, in parts by weight: 33.2 parts of ceramide, 0.8 part of phytosterol oleate, 1.0 part of wild soybean oil, 12.5 parts of sweet almond oil and 1.0 part of tocopherol.

Preferably, the water phase component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-5 parts of coral algae extract, 0.5-3 parts of crocus sativus extract, 0.5-3 parts of glycerol glucoside, 1-3 parts of glycerol, 1-3 parts of butanediol, 0.5-1 part of sodium hyaluronate and 80-90 parts of water.

In the present invention, the weight part of the coral algae extract in the aqueous phase component is preferably 2.0 parts, the weight part of the crocus sativus extract is preferably 0.7 parts, and the weight part of the glycerol glucoside is preferably 0.7 parts.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a solvent of the biphasic lyophilized powder as described in the first aspect, the method comprises the following steps:

mixing ceramide, phytosterol oleic acid, wild soybean oil, an antioxidant and base oil to obtain an oil phase component, and mixing with a water phase component to obtain the solvent of the two-phase freeze-dried powder.

In a third aspect, the invention also provides a cosmetic, which comprises lyophilized powder and the biphasic lyophilized powder solvent as described in the first aspect.

Preferably, the freeze-dried powder solvent is matched with freeze-dried powder for use, and the freeze-dried powder comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: mannitol 4-6%, collagen 0.02-0.2%, lactobacillus fermentation lysate 1.5-2.5%, yeast fermentation lysate 0.5-1% and balance water.

The mannitol may be 4 to 6% by mass, for example, 4%, 4.2%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.8%, 5%, 5.2%, 5.4%, 5.6%, 5.8%, or 6%.

The collagen may be 0.02 to 0.2% by mass, for example, 0.02%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.08%, 0.1%, 0.12%, 0.15%, 0.16%, 0.18%, 0.2%, or the like.

The mass percentage of the lactic acid bacteria fermentation lysate is 1.5-2.5%, and may be, for example, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.4%, or 2.5%.

The mass percentage of the second split yeast fermentation lysate is 0.5-1%, for example, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, or 1%.

Preferably, the preparation raw materials are freeze-dried to obtain the freeze-dried powder.

In the invention, the raw materials for preparing the freeze-dried powder preferably comprise the following components: mannitol 5.5%, collagen 0.1%, lactobacillus fermentation lysate 2.1%, yeast fermentation lysate 0.7% and balance water, by freeze-drying to obtain powder.

Preferably, the ratio of the liquid to the mass of the lyophilized powder is 60-100mL/g, i.e. 1g of lyophilized powder is dissolved with 60-100mL (for example, 60mL, 65mL, 70mL, 75mL, 80mL, 85mL, 90mL, 95mL or 100 mL) of lyophilized powder.

In a fourth aspect, the use of the vehicle of the biphasic lyophilized powder according to the first aspect in cosmetics.

The recitation of numerical ranges herein includes not only the above-recited values, but also any values between any of the above-recited numerical ranges not recited, and for brevity and clarity, is not intended to be exhaustive of the specific values encompassed within the range.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

(1) the water-oil two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent provided by the invention comprises an upper oil phase and a lower water phase, wherein the oil phase component is added with phytosterol oleate, wild soybean oil and ceramide, and the phytosterol oleate, the wild soybean oil and the ceramide are coordinated and matched, so that the obtained oil phase component is matched with the sebum component of a human body, the skin can be protected from inside to outside, a complete oil film is formed on the outside, and the water locking capacity and the repairing capacity of the skin are enhanced;

(2) according to the water-oil two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent provided by the invention, the oil phase component overcomes the defect of insufficient moisturizing effect of a single water-phase freeze-dried powder preparation, a substance with higher safety is selected by combining the abnormal change of grease in sub-healthy skin, and coral algae extract, crocus sativus extract, glycerol glucoside and other active ingredients are added into the water phase, the oil phase component and the water-oil component are scientifically and reasonably matched, and the obtained solvent can improve the stability and the anti-sensitivity of skin cells and promote cell metabolism; the obtained oil phase component and the water-oil component are used simultaneously, so that the skin permeation effect of active ingredients in the freeze-dried powder can be further improved, the moisture-preserving and water-locking effects of the freeze-dried powder are enhanced, and the obvious effects of preserving moisture and brightening skin are achieved;

(3) the water-oil two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent provided by the invention is safe and reliable, can keep moisture for a long time, and has a high repair rate to damaged skin, wherein the repair rate in 1h is 17.96-20.06%, and the repair rate in 2h is 22.59-27.02%; the water-oil two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent has good absorption speed, freshness, moisturizing effect, moistening effect, softness and tenderness.

Detailed Description

The technical solution of the present invention is further explained by the following embodiments. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that the examples are only for the understanding of the present invention and should not be construed as the specific limitations of the present invention.

In the following examples, the lactobacillus fermentation lysate can be prepared by the method described in the patent application (application No. 202010253050.6) as follows:

(1) preparing a culture solution: cleaning fresh ginger, juicing, filtering and collecting ginger juice; adding cellulase and amylase (the addition amount of cellulase and amylase is 0.5 wt% of ginger juice, and the weight ratio of cellulase to amylase is 1:2), adjusting pH to 5.0 (citric acid is pH regulator), heating at 40 deg.C in water bath for 30min, centrifuging, and collecting supernatant; adding glucose (the addition amount of glucose is 1 wt% of the supernatant), adjusting pH to 6.0, and sterilizing to obtain culture solution;

(2) pure seed activation; inoculating lactobacillus to MRS slant culture medium, activating, culturing at 35 deg.C for 28 hr, inoculating the slant activated strain to MRS liquid test tube culture medium at 1% of the addition amount, and culturing at 35 deg.C for 20 hr at 200rpm in shake flask to obtain seed culture medium;

(3) fermentation culture: adding the seed culture medium obtained by activation in the step (2) into the culture solution prepared in the step (1) (the addition of the seed culture medium is 10 wt% of the culture solution), setting the fermentation temperature to be 35 ℃, the stirring rotation speed to be 50rpm, and the fermentation time to be 26h to obtain fermentation liquor;

(4) lysate preparation: centrifuging the fermentation liquor at a high speed, and collecting thallus precipitate; uniformly dispersing thallus precipitate with distilled water, adding 1 wt% of microbial polysaccharide pullulan, and crushing at low temperature with a high-pressure crusher at the high-speed centrifugation rotation speed of 5000 r/min; the weight of the thallus precipitate is 3 percent of that of distilled water; the crushing pressure of the low-temperature crushing is 150MPa, the temperature is 6 ℃, and the crushing times are 2 times, so that the lactobacillus sporolysis product is obtained. The obtained lactobacillus sporolysis product is safe and reliable, and can be used as cosmetic raw material.

In the following examples, the sources of the starting materials are as follows:

the remaining non-specified components are commercially available from conventional suppliers.

Example 1

The embodiment provides a freeze-dried powder solvent and freeze-dried powder matched with the same.

The solvent components and the parts by weight thereof are as follows:

the addition amount of the oil phase component in the solvent is 5 percent, and the addition amount of the water phase component in the solvent is 95 percent.

The freeze-dried powder comprises the following components in percentage by mass: mannitol 5.5%, collagen 0.1%, lactobacillus fermentation lysate 2.1%, two split yeast fermentation lysate 0.7%, water make up 100%.

Example 2

The solvent components and the parts by weight thereof are as follows:

the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Example 3

The solvent components and the parts by weight thereof are as follows:

the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Example 4

The solvent components and the parts by weight thereof are as follows:

the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Example 5

The difference from example 1 is that the oil phase component is added in an amount of 4% and the water phase component is added in an amount of 94%; the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Example 6

The difference from example 1 is that the oil phase component is added in 6% and the water phase component is added in 96%; the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Example 7

The difference from example 1 is that the amount of the oil phase component added in the solvent is 10% and the amount of the water phase component added is 90%; the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Example 8

The difference from example 1 is that the oil phase component is added in an amount of 2% and the water phase component is added in an amount of 98%; the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Example 9

The difference from example 1 is that the amount of the oil phase component added in the solvent is 15%, and the amount of the water phase component added in the solvent is 85%; the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Example 10

The difference from the example 1 is that in the solvent component, the water phase component comprises 2 parts of glycerol, 2 parts of butanediol, 1 part of sodium hyaluronate and 83.4 parts of water, and the coral algae extract, the crocus sativus extract and the glycerol glucoside are not added; the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Comparative example 1

The difference from example 1 is that the oil phase component is added in the solvent in an amount of 0 and the water phase component is added in an amount of 100%; the remaining conditions were kept the same as in example 1.

Comparative example 2

The difference from example 1 is that the oil phase component in the vehicle does not contain ceramide-3, phytosterol oleate and wild soybean oil, and the total weight parts of the other components are respectively 17.13 parts of sweet almond oil and 1.37 parts of tocopherol;

the amounts of the aqueous phase component, the oil phase component and the aqueous phase component in the solvent, and the lyophilized powder are the same as in example 1.

Comparative example 3

The difference from example 1 is that the oil phase component in the vehicle does not contain ceramide-3 and phytosterol oleate, and the total weight parts of the other components are respectively 5 parts of wild soybean oil, 12.5 parts of sweet almond oil and 1 part of tocopherol;

Comparative example 4

The difference from the example 1 is that the oil phase component in the solvent does not contain ceramide-3, and the total weight parts of other components are respectively 2.4 parts of phytosterol oleate, 2.6 parts of wild soybean oil, 12.5 parts of sweet almond oil and 1 part of tocopherol;

Comparative example 5

The difference from the example 1 is that the oil phase component in the solvent does not comprise phytosterol oleate and wild soybean oil, and the total weight parts of other components are respectively ceramide-35 parts, sweet almond oil 12.5 parts and tocopherol 1 part;

Performance test

1. Evaluation of safety

The substances used in the invention are all recorded in catalog (2015) of used cosmetic raw materials, and the safety of the raw materials is supported. Therefore, the solvents and powders of the biphasic lyophilized powders provided in examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-5 are safe and reliable and can be used safely.

2. Transdermal water loss test

Subjects 90, randomized into 3 groups of 30 per group, were tested on a total of 15 samples provided in examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-5, and subjects in the same group tested on the same 5 samples. Wherein the first group of subjects used the samples provided in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2; the second group of subjects used the samples provided in examples 4-6 and comparative examples 3-4; the third group of subjects used the samples provided in examples 7-10 and comparative example 5.

Testing an instrument: skin elasticity tester

Dual MPA 580-skin moisture and water flow tester

TM 300。

Testing materials: 3M Fit personal care tape.

The test method comprises the following steps: (1) after the subject cleans the arm, the subject takes a rest for 30min in a constant temperature and humidity room (the temperature is 21 +/-1 ℃ and the relative humidity is 45 +/-5 percent), the pigmentation and scar areas are avoided, and the initial skin TEWL in the two arm areas of the subject is measured_InitialThe value (TEWL means the transepidermal water loss of the skin and is given in g/(h.m)²) I.e., how many grams of water are lost per square meter of area per hour);

(2) repeatedly tearing off skin of the region 20 times (only once per section of adhesive tape, no repeated adhesion) with 3M WEI personal care adhesive tape, tearing off damaged skin barrier, and immediately measuring skin TEWL of the two arm regions of the subject_{Breakage of the tube}A value;

(3) smearing the sample with a smearing amount of about 3 μ L/cm²(ii) a One of the tear areas was left uncoated with sample as a control area and the skin of the subject was tested for TWEL after 1h, 2h_nValues and calculate control repair rates；

(4) TWEL of skin of test subjects 1h, 2h after sample application_nValues (test area wipe treatment before test); data of change of percutaneous water loss at different stages (g/(h.m)²) Data are shown in table 1 below, wherein the data for the control group is the mean of the test values for all subject control regions;

TABLE 1

(5) The formula for calculating the repair rate is:

wherein: n is a time node; TEWL value_{Breakage of}The test result of the percutaneous water loss measured after tearing the skin; TEWL value_InitialIs the TWEL value without tear treatment;

(6) the relative repair rate, product repair rate-control repair rate, is shown in table 2 below:

TABLE 2

The results of the percutaneous water loss test can be obtained, and compared with comparative examples 1 to 5, the freeze-dried powder preparations in examples 1 to 10 have a remarkable repairing effect and can reduce the percutaneous water loss of the damaged cortex.

In comparative example 1, no oil phase component is added, and the repair rate is much lower than that of examples 1-10; in addition, the oil phase components in comparative examples 2-5 lack part of components, and the repair rate is lower than that in examples 1-7, which shows that the oil phase components are matched and used together in the invention, and the repair effect of the freeze-dried powder preparation can be enhanced when the content of the oil phase components in the solvent is higher. And the repair data according to example 10 shows that the plant extracts are absent in the aqueous phase component, but the repair effect is still better than that of the comparative example, which shows that the plant extracts have less influence on the repair rate of the product.

3. Long term moisture retention test

Selecting 160 persons from the subjects, randomly dividing the subjects into 8 groups (20 persons in each group), and using the samples of example 1, example 2, example 10 and comparative examples 1-5 respectively;

testing an instrument: a CK skin elasticity tester Cutomer dual MPA580-CM825 probe;

the test method comprises the following steps: recording the subject's original moisture content the day before using the product, the subject continuously using 4 weeks of samples, testing the subject's facial moisture content once a week;

the face needs to be washed 30min before each test; and resting in a constant temperature and humidity chamber (the temperature is 21 +/-1 ℃ and the relative humidity is 45 +/-5 percent), and testing the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the facial skin of the testee. Finally, the moisture content test results are shown in table 3 below:

TABLE 3

The results of the moisture content tests in the table above show that the stratum corneum moisture content can be significantly increased using the samples of examples 1 and 2. The long-term moisturizing effect of the example 10 (lacking the coralline extract, the crocus sativus extract and the glycerol glucoside in the water-phase component), the comparative example 1 (lacking the oil-phase component) and the comparative example 2 (lacking the ceramide-3, the phytosterol oleate and the wild soybean oil) is obviously lower than that of the example, so that the water-phase component and the oil-phase component in the solvent of the freeze-dried powder provided by the invention can synergistically act to improve the moisture content of skin, and if one component is lacked or active substances are lacked in one component, the long-term moisturizing effect of the product can be influenced.

4. Skin feel test

A total of 15 samples from examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-5 were tested by selecting 90 subjects, randomly divided into 3 groups of 30 persons each, and each group of subjects tested the same 5 samples. Wherein the first group of subjects used the samples provided in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2; the second group of subjects used the samples provided in examples 4-6 and comparative examples 3-4; the third group of subjects used the samples provided in examples 7-10 and comparative example 5.

The specific method comprises the following steps: after cleaning the arm with clear water, taking a proper amount of sample, uniformly spot-coating the sample in the arm for measurement, and evaluating the absorption speed, the freshness, the moisturizing effect, the moistening effect, the softness and the tenderness of the freeze-dried powder according to the feeling in the using process and 30min after the use. The scoring results are shown in table 4, each scoring range is 1-10 points, and higher scoring represents better effect of the sample.

TABLE 4

The skin feel test results described above show that the samples of examples 1-7 had higher test scores, while the scores of example 9 (15% added oil phase), comparative example 1 (lacking aqueous phase components), comparative example 2 (lacking ceramide-3, phytosterol oleate, and soybean oil in the oil phase) were all below 50 points;

wherein the comparative example 1 lacks oil phase components, and the effects of moisturizing, softening and tendering skin are much lower than those of the comparative example; in example 9, the oil phase component was added at 15%, which affects the absorption rate and the freshness of the formulation, indicating that excessive oil content affects the skin feel; the lack of ceramide-3, phytosterol oleate, and soybean oil in comparative example 2 also reduced the sensation of use of the sample. Examples 1 to 7 have good absorption rate, freshness, moisturizing effect, softness and tenderness, and it is demonstrated that the addition of an appropriate amount of oil phase component (4 to 10%) added in the present invention can improve the moisturizing, moisturizing effect, and skin softening and smoothing effect of the lyophilized powder preparation.

In conclusion, the phytosterol oleate, the wild soybean oil and the ceramide are coordinated and matched in the water-oil two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent provided by the invention, the obtained oil phase component is matched with the sebum component of a human body, the skin can be protected from inside to outside, a complete oil film is formed on the outside, and the water locking capacity and the repairing capacity of the skin are enhanced. And the oil phase component and the water-oil component are reasonably proportioned, so that the skin permeation effect of the active ingredients of the freeze-dried powder can be further improved, the moisture-preserving and water-locking effects of the freeze-dried powder are enhanced, and the freeze-dried powder has remarkable moisture-preserving and skin-brightening effects.

The applicant declares that the above description is only a specific embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and it should be understood by those skilled in the art that any changes or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope of the present invention are within the scope and disclosure of the present invention.

Claims

1. The cosmetic is characterized by comprising freeze-dried powder and a two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent, wherein the two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent comprises an oil phase component and a water phase component, and the mass ratio of the oil phase component is 4-10% based on 100% of the two-phase freeze-dried powder solvent;

the oil phase comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-4 parts of ceramide, 0.5-1.0 part of phytosterol oleate, 0.5-1.5 parts of wild soybean oil, 0.05-1 part of antioxidant and 10-15 parts of base oil; the water phase component comprises 1.5-8 parts of plant extract, 0.5-10 parts of humectant and 80-90 parts of water by weight;

the freeze-dried powder comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 4-6% of mannitol, 0.02-0.2% of collagen, 1.5-2.5% of lactobacillus fermentation lysate, 0.5-1% of schizosaccharomyces cerevisiae fermentation lysate and the balance of water.

2. The cosmetic of claim 1, wherein the antioxidant comprises tocopherol.

3. The cosmetic of claim 1, wherein the base oil comprises any one of sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, grape seed oil, rose hip oil, or olive oil, or a combination of at least two thereof.

4. The cosmetic of claim 3, wherein said base oil is sweet almond oil.

5. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that said ceramide comprises ceramide-1 and/or ceramide-3.

6. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the oil phase component comprises, in parts by weight: 32 to 3.5 portions of ceramide, 0.5 to 1.0 portion of phytosterol oleate, 0.5 to 1.0 portion of wild soybean oil, 10 to 13 portions of sweet almond oil and 0.5 to 1 portion of tocopherol.

7. The cosmetic of claim 1, wherein the plant extract comprises any one of coral algae extract, saffron extract, tea extract or centella asiatica extract or a combination of at least two thereof.

8. The cosmetic of claim 7, wherein the plant extract comprises a combination of coral algae extract and saffron extract.

9. The cosmetic of claim 1, wherein the moisturizer comprises any one of glycerol glucoside, glycerol, butylene glycol, or sodium hyaluronate, or a combination of at least two thereof.

10. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-5 parts of coral algae extract, 0.5-3 parts of crocus extract, 0.5-3 parts of glycerol glucoside and 80-90 parts of water.

11. The cosmetic according to claim 10, wherein the aqueous phase component further comprises 1 to 3 parts by weight of glycerin.

12. The cosmetic according to claim 10, further comprising 1 to 3 parts by weight of butylene glycol in the aqueous phase component.

13. The cosmetic according to claim 10, wherein the aqueous phase component further comprises 0.5 to 1 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate.

14. The cosmetic of claim 1, the aqueous phase component comprising, in parts by weight: 1-5 parts of coral algae extract, 0.5-3 parts of crocus sativus extract, 0.5-3 parts of glycerol glucoside, 1-3 parts of glycerol, 1-3 parts of butanediol, 0.5-1 part of sodium hyaluronate and 80-90 parts of water.

15. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the oil phase components is 4.5-6% based on 100% of the mass of the biphasic lyophilized powder solvent.

16. The cosmetic of claim 1, wherein the ratio of the biphasic lyophilized powder solvent to the lyophilized powder is 60-100 mL/g.