CN114642613B - Jelly mask and preparation process thereof - Google Patents
Jelly mask and preparation process thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN114642613B CN114642613B CN202011494624.5A CN202011494624A CN114642613B CN 114642613 B CN114642613 B CN 114642613B CN 202011494624 A CN202011494624 A CN 202011494624A CN 114642613 B CN114642613 B CN 114642613B
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- tremella
- phase
- mask
- dendrobium
- jelly
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000008274 jelly Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 73
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title description 12
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- 241001523681 Dendrobium Species 0.000 claims abstract description 91
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 81
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 238000000605 extraction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 238000002791 soaking Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 240000004638 Dendrobium nobile Species 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000002738 chelating agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 33
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims description 22
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 13
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-VKHMYHEASA-N (+)-propylene glycol Chemical compound C[C@H](O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3-propanediol Substances OCCCO YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
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- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 claims description 10
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- 229960003885 sodium benzoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- CRPCXAMJWCDHFM-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;5-oxopyrrolidine-2-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1CCC(=O)N1 CRPCXAMJWCDHFM-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960002920 sorbitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001502 supplementing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000008521 threonine Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
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- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a jelly mask, which comprises an A phase, a B phase and a C phase. Based on the total weight of the mask, the phase A is as follows: humectant, chelating agent, thickener, tremella stem of noble dendrobium extract, the B phase is: 20% NaCI and/or 0.5mol/L GaCI2, the C phase being: a preservative; soaking the tremella dendrobium extract in water, then washing, and extracting to obtain the tremella dendrobium extract; in the extracting step, the extracting pressure is 40-130 KPa; the extraction temperature is 105-125 ℃; the extraction time is 1-4 h. Experiments prove that the jelly mask improves the infiltration degree of the mask liquid to the mask cloth on the premise of ensuring the efficacy and the stability, further improves the skin pasting degree and the comfort of the mask cloth, integrally improves the skin feel of the jelly mask, overcomes the defects of the existing market products, and has wide application prospect.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of skin care products, in particular to a jelly mask with good skin feel and a preparation process thereof.
Background
The mask is an important part of daily skin care products, and the jelly mask slowly goes into the field of vision of the masses in a novel state. The jelly facial mask is different from the traditional facial mask, and the facial mask liquid is thicker, so that the facial mask is named because the state of the facial mask is soft and elastic like jelly. The jelly mask is also called a water-washing mask for short, has the outstanding advantage of strong water supplementing capability, and is one of the best moisturizing effect masks.
In order to achieve a special state of the jelly mask in the current market, a certain amount of thickening agent is required to be added in the preparation process of the mask liquid to make the mask liquid frozen. Although the thickener added into the cosmetic can improve the appearance of the product or improve the stability of the product, the thickener can change the wettability, increase the consistency and weaken the infiltration degree, so that the skin feel of the jelly mask is poor, and the use feel of the product by consumers is influenced.
Based on the above problems, how to improve the skin feel of the jelly mask while ensuring the excellent efficacy of the jelly mask is a technical problem to be solved by those skilled in the art.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a jelly mask with good skin feel.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme: a jelly mask with good skin feel comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:
according to the invention, the tremella dendrobium extract is prepared by a preparation method comprising the following steps:
soaking tremella and dendrobium nobile in water in a certain weight ratio, and then washing and extracting to obtain tremella and dendrobium nobile extract.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the extraction pressure is 40-130 KPa.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the extraction temperature is 105-125 ℃.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the extraction time is 1-4 h.
According to a further embodiment of the present invention, in the extraction method, the extraction pressure is 40 to 75 KPa.
According to a further embodiment of the present invention, in the extraction method, the extraction temperature is 110 to 115 ℃.
According to a further embodiment of the invention, in the extraction method, the extraction time is 2-3 hours.
According to still further preferred embodiments of the present invention, the extraction pressure is 70KPa, the extraction temperature is 115 ℃ and the extraction time is 3h.
According to some specific embodiments of the invention, the weight ratio of the tremella and the dendrobium is that: dendrobe (m/m) =1: 1 to 5:1.
according to some preferred embodiments of the invention, in the extracting step, the ratio (m/m) of the tremella dendrobium to the water is 1: 30-1:70.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the soaking temperature in the soaking step is 20-30 ℃.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the soaking time in the soaking step is 0.5-1.5. 1.5h.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the method for preparing the tremella dendrobium extract further comprises a filtering step.
According to the invention, the filtering adopts 100-200 mesh filter cloth to filter the extract, so as to obtain the tremella dendrobium extract.
According to the invention, the phase A humectant is a polyhydric alcohol acceptable in the field of skin care products, and can be one or more of glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
Preferably, the humectant is one or more of glycerin, butanediol and propylene glycol.
More preferably, the humectants are glycerin and propylene glycol.
According to the invention, the A-phase chelating agent is an acceptable chelating agent in the field of skin care products, and can be one or more of sodium glucoheptonate and disodium EDTA.
Preferably, the chelating agent is sodium glucoheptonate.
According to the invention, the phase A thickener is acceptable in the field of skin care products, and can be, for example, sclerotium gum, acrylic acid (esters) or C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, xanthan gum, carrageenan or a mixture thereof.
Preferably, the thickener is carrageenan and xanthan gum.
According to the present invention, the C-phase preservative is a preservative commonly used in the art, and is not particularly limited, and may be, for example, bis (hydroxymethyl) imidazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, methylisothiazolinone, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, and the like.
Preferably, the preservative is one or more of octanoyl hydroxamic acid/1, 2-hexanediol/1, 3-propanediol, phenoxyethanol, umarone, glycerol caprylate/octanoyl hydroxamic acid/1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 2-hexanediol. The invention further provides a preparation process of the jelly mask, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Dispersing the phase A thickener in a humectant, and uniformly stirring;
(2) Adding the A-phase tremella herba dendrobii extract and other raw materials, and heating to 80-85 ℃;
(3) Cooling to about 60 ℃, adding the phase B raw material, and uniformly stirring;
(4) Continuously cooling to room temperature, adding the C-phase raw material, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that at least:
(1) The jelly mask disclosed by the invention has the advantages that the tremella dendrobium extract is prepared by adding the jelly mask disclosed by the invention, so that the skin feel of the mask liquid is improved.
(2) The tremella dendrobium extract is prepared by adding the jelly mask disclosed by the invention, so that the infiltration degree of mask liquid on mask cloth is improved, and the overall skin feel of the jelly mask is further improved.
(3) According to the jelly mask, the tremella and dendrobium composition is added, so that the skin feel of the mask is improved, the consistency of the mask liquid and the state of the jelly mask are ensured, and the moisturizing effect is improved.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a diagram showing the molecular weight distribution of dendrobe polysaccharide;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the molecular weight distribution of tremella polysaccharide;
FIG. 3 is a molecular weight distribution diagram of tremella dendrobium polysaccharide;
FIG. 4 is a graph showing the comparison of skin feel of tremella and extracts of Dendrobium nobile in two preparation processes;
FIG. 5 is a skin-feel radar chart of the dendrobium tremella extract with different addition ratios;
FIG. 6 is a high temperature and high pressure stability observation (A) of Dendrobium nobile and a stability observation (B) of Dendrobium nobile by conventional water extraction;
FIG. 7 is a 30-day stability observation of the extract of Dendrobium tremella under 7 different conditions;
FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram of the skin feel radar of the mask lotion of example 7 and the commercially available bid mask lotion of comparative example 7;
FIG. 9 is a diagram of the skin feel radar of the mask of example 7 and the commercially available bid product mask of comparative example 7;
FIG. 10 is a radar chart of the overall evaluation of the mask of example 7 and the commercial bid mask of comparative example 7;
FIG. 11 is a graph of the application of the mask of comparative example 9 blank gel, comparative example 7 commercial bid, comparative example 8 and example 7;
FIG. 12 is a chart of the consistency of the mask liquid of comparative example 9 blank gel, comparative example 7 commercial bid, comparative example 8 and example 7;
FIG. 13 is an initial (day 0) stability observation of example 7 under 7 different conditions;
FIG. 14 is a graph of day 90 stability observations of example 7 under 7 different conditions.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific examples, but the invention is not limited thereto.
The experimental methods described in the following examples are all conventional methods unless otherwise specified; the experimental materials and reagents, unless otherwise specified, are commercially available.
TABLE 1 raw materials and sources
Raw material name | INCI | Suppliers (suppliers) |
DendrobiumDendrobium officinale Kimura et Migo | Dendrobium officinale Kimura et Migo | Pu' er Da Runfu Hu planting Co., ltd |
Tremella fuciformis berk | Tremella fuciformis Berk | Kangwang food Co., ltd |
Glycerol | Glycerol | Baojie (baby cleaner) |
1, 3-propanediol | 1, 3-propanediol | Zhangjiagang meimeimeirong Chemical Industry Co.,Ltd. |
Crodaquest A300 | Glucoheptonic acid sodium salt | Heda (Heda) |
Carrageenan gum | Carrageenan (CHONDRUS CRISPUS) | Sibikeke |
Xanthan gum | Xanthan gum | Sibikeke |
20% NaCI solution | Sodium chloride, water | Shandong Feicheng refined salt factory |
Sepectrastat PHL | Octanoyl hydroxamic acid/1, 2-hexanediol/1, 3-propanediol | Ind chemical Co Ltd |
1, 3-butanediol | Butanediol (butanediol) | Oxea (European Quaternary us) |
EDTA-2Na | EDTA disodium salt | Ackersu |
Gellan gum | Gellan gum | Sibikeke |
0.5mol/L GaCI2 | Calcium chloride, water | Gallery sub-Tailong Xingxing |
Phenoxyethanol | Phenoxyethanol | Toll |
Xinxian ketone | Para hydroxy acetophenone | Dexin (Dexin) |
Microcare PEHG | Phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerol | Toll |
NAGO A631 | Glycerol octanoate/octanoyl hydroxamic acid/1, 2-pentanediol | GUANGZHOU AIZHUO BIOLOGICAL SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY Co.,Ltd. |
1, 2-hexanediol | 1, 2-hexanediol | Toll |
Example 1
The preparation method of the tremella dendrobium extract comprises the following steps:
(1) Weighing tremella 20 g and dendrobium 20 g (tremella: dendrobium=1:1);
(2) Soaking the tremella dendrobium mixture in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5-h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 2000 mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, extracting the mixture at 70KPa and 115 ℃ to obtain 3 h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the tremella dendrobium extract.
Example 2
(1) Weighing tremella 20 g and dendrobium 10 g (tremella: dendrobium=2:1);
(2) Soaking the tremella dendrobium mixture in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5-h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 2100 and mL water was added, i.e. feed to liquid ratio 1:70, extracting the mixture at 70KPa and 115 ℃ to obtain 3 h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 200 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the tremella dendrobium extract.
Example 3
(1) Weighing tremella 20 g and dendrobium 5 g (tremella: dendrobium=4:1);
(2) Soaking the tremella dendrobium mixture in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 720 mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:30, extracting the mixture at 70KPa and 115 ℃ to obtain 3 h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the tremella dendrobium extract.
Example 4
(1) Weighing tremella 20 g and dendrobium 4 g (tremella: dendrobium=5:1);
(2) Soaking the tremella dendrobium mixture in water at 20-30 ℃ for 1.5-h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 1250 and mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, extracting the mixture at 130KPa and 125 ℃ to obtain 4h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the tremella dendrobium extract.
Example 5
(1) Weighing tremella 20 g and dendrobium 20 g (tremella: dendrobium=1:1);
(2) Soaking the tremella dendrobium mixture in water at 20-30 ℃ for 1.5-h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 2000 mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, extracting the mixture at 50 KPa and 110 ℃ to obtain 1 h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the tremella dendrobium extract.
Example 6
(1) Weighing tremella 20 g and dendrobium 20 g (tremella: dendrobium=1:1);
(2) Soaking the tremella dendrobium mixture in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5-h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 2000 mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, extracting the mixture at 40 KPa and 105 ℃ to obtain 3 h;
and (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the tremella dendrobium extract.
Example 7
According to the formula table of the jelly mask of table 2, carrageenan and xanthan gum are added into glycerol and 1, 3-propanediol, and after uniformly stirring, the tremella dendrobium extract prepared according to example 1 and sodium glucoheptonate are added and heated to 85 ℃. Then cooling to 60 ℃, adding 20% NaCI solution, and stirring uniformly. Continuously cooling to room temperature, adding octanoyl hydroxamic acid/1, 2-hexanediol/1, 3-propanediol, and stirring uniformly to obtain the jelly mask.
Table 2 example 7 jelly mask formulation table
Example 8
According to the jelly mask formulation table of table 3, after carrageenan and xanthan gum were mixed, the tremella dendrobium extract and Crodaquest a300 prepared according to example 1 were added and heated to 85 ℃. Then cooling to 60 ℃, adding 20% NaCI solution, and stirring uniformly. And continuously cooling to room temperature, adding phenoxyethanol/Xinxianone, and uniformly stirring to obtain the jelly mask.
Table 3 example 8 jelly mask formulation table
Example 9
According to the formula table of the jelly mask of table 4, gellan gum was added to glycerin and 1, 3-propanediol, and after stirring uniformly, the tremella dendrobium extract and disodium EDTA prepared according to example 1 were added and heated to 85 ℃. Then cooling to 60 ℃, adding 0.5mol/L GaCI2, and stirring uniformly. And continuously cooling to room temperature, adding phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerol, and uniformly stirring to obtain the jelly mask.
Table 4 example 9 jelly mask formulation table
Example 10
According to the jelly mask formulation table of table 5, carrageenan was added to glycerin and butylene glycol, and after stirring uniformly, the tremella dendrobium extract and Crodaquest a300 prepared according to example 1 were added and heated to 85 ℃. Then cooling to 60 ℃, adding 20% NaCI solution, and stirring uniformly. And continuously cooling to room temperature, adding glycerol caprylate, octanoyl hydroxamic acid and 1, 2-pentanediol/1, 2-hexanediol, and uniformly stirring to obtain the jelly mask.
Table 5 example 10 jelly mask formulation table
Comparative example 1
(1) Weighing tremella 5 g and dendrobium 20 g (tremella: dendrobium=1:4);
(2) Soaking the tremella dendrobium mixture in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5-h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 1250 and mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, the mixture is stirred at 70KPa, 115 DEG CA kind of electronic deviceExtracting 3h under the condition;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the tremella dendrobium extract.
Comparative example 2
(1) Weighing tremella 20 g and dendrobium 2.5 g (tremella: dendrobium=8:1);
(2) Soaking the tremella dendrobium mixture in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5-h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 1125 of mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, extracting the mixture at 70KPa and 115 ℃ to obtain 3 h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the tremella dendrobium extract.
Comparative example 3
The procedure of example 1 was repeated except that no dendrobe was added to obtain a tremella extract.
(1) Weighing tremella 20 and g;
(2) Soaking tremella in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5-h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 1000 mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, extracting the mixture at 70KPa and 115 ℃ to obtain 3 h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining tremella extract.
Comparative example 4
The procedure of example 1 was repeated except that tremella was not added, to obtain a dendrobe extract.
(1) Weighing herba Dendrobii 20 g;
(2) Soaking dendrobium in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5-h, and then panning;
(3) Extracting: 1000 mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, extracting the mixture at 70KPa and 115 ℃ to obtain 3 h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the dendrobium extract.
Comparative example 5
The preparation method of the tremella dendrobium extract by the traditional water extraction method comprises the following steps:
(1) Weighing tremella 20 g and dendrobium 20 g (tremella: dendrobium=1:1);
(2) Soaking the tremella dendrobium mixture in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5-h, and then washing;
(3) Extracting: 2000 mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, extracting the mixture at the normal pressure of 80 ℃ to obtain 3 h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the tremella dendrobium extract by the traditional water extraction method.
Comparative example 6
The preparation method of the dendrobium extract by the traditional water extraction method comprises the following steps:
(1) Weighing herba Dendrobii 20 g;
(2) Soaking dendrobium in water at 20-30 ℃ for 0.5-h, and then panning;
(3) Extracting: 1000 mL water is added, namely the feed liquid ratio is 1:50, extracting the mixture at the normal pressure of 80 ℃ to obtain 3 h;
(4) And (3) filtering: filtering the extract with 100 mesh filter cloth; obtaining the dendrobium extract by the traditional water extraction method.
Comparative example 7
The components of the commercial racing jelly mask are as follows:
water, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, C12-13 alkanol glycerol hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid ester, trehalose, ceramide 2, squalane, serine, glycine, glutamic acid, alanine, lysine, arginine, threonine, proline, lavender (LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA) oil, rose (CYMBOPOGON MARTINI) oil, geranium (PELARGONIUM GRAVEOLENS) oil, sorbitol, allantoin, betaine, sodium PCA, polyethylene glycol-6, polyethylene glycol-32, bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, acrylic acid (ester) type/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, carbomer, sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, caramel, tocopherol (vitamin E), PPG-4-cetyl polyether-20, phenoxyethanol, and methylparaben.
Comparative example 8
According to the formula table of the jelly mask of table 6, carrageenan and xanthan gum are added into glycerol and 1, 3-propanediol, after being stirred uniformly, the tremella dendrobium extract prepared according to comparative example 5 and sodium glucoheptonate are added, and the mixture is heated to 85 ℃. Then cooling to 60 ℃, adding 20% NaCI solution, and stirring uniformly. Continuously cooling to room temperature, adding octanoyl hydroxamic acid/1, 2-hexanediol/1, 3-propanediol, and stirring uniformly to obtain the jelly mask.
Table 6 comparative example 8 jelly mask formulation table
Comparative example 9
According to the blank gel formulation table of table 7, carrageenan and xanthan gum were added to glycerin and 1, 3-propanediol, and after stirring well, water and sodium glucoheptonate were added and heated to 85 ℃. Then cooling to 60 ℃, adding 20% NaCI solution, and stirring uniformly. Continuously cooling to room temperature, adding octanoyl hydroxamic acid/1, 2-hexanediol/1, 3-propanediol, and uniformly stirring to obtain blank gel.
Table 7 comparative example 9 blank gel formulation table
Efficacy evaluation test
Polysaccharide yield test
The testing method comprises the following steps: polysaccharide determination is carried out by phenol-sulfuric acid method (specifically, reference is made to the content determination of polysaccharide in tremella [ J ]. Heilongjiang medical science, 1999 (06): 32-32.).
Test sample: the tremella dendrobium extract is prepared in the embodiment.
Test results: the polysaccharide content is 1.20 mg/mL-4.24 mg/mL.
Wherein the highest polysaccharide content is that of the tremella dendrobium extract prepared in the embodiment 1, and the polysaccharide content is 4.24mg/mL.
(II) molecular weight measurement of polysaccharide from tremella dendrobium extract
Molecular weight distribution determination: the detection method adopts high-efficiency gel permeation chromatography (specifically referring to tremella polysaccharide quality control research based on high-efficiency gel permeation chromatography, [ J ] Chinese herbal medicine, 2011, 42 (09): 1732-1735.).
The molecular weight distribution of the tremella dendrobium polysaccharide prepared in the measurement example 1, the tremella dendrobium polysaccharide of the comparison example 4 and the tremella polysaccharide of the comparison example 3 is shown in fig. 1,2 and 3.
As can be seen from figures 1,2 and 3, the dendrobium polysaccharide has smaller molecular weight and is mainly distributed in 300 Da to 26 ten thousand Da. The tremella polysaccharide has larger molecular weight and is mainly concentrated at about 590 ten thousand Da. According to the invention, the molecular weight distribution condition of the dendrobe tremella polysaccharide is changed by combining tremella and dendrobe with a high-temperature high-pressure technology. Compared with the separate dendrobium extract and tremella extract, the tremella dendrobium polysaccharide prepared in the embodiment 1 has the distribution condition of molecular weight which is greatly changed, and the molecular weight distribution range is from 400 Da to 580 ten thousand Da, so that the matching and combination of large and medium molecular polysaccharide are realized. It is the combination and collocation of different molecules that make it have further improved skin feel, efficiency etc..
The experiment shows that under the preparation process conditions, the molecular weight distribution of the tremella dendrobium extract is improved.
(III) composition skin feel evaluation experiment
Skin feel test:
30 women were recruited, aged 18-40 years, with dry skin, and 3 areas 1,2, 3 were drawn on the arm and samples 1,2, 3 were smeared, respectively. Scoring the skin feel after trial, wherein the score of each item is 5 points, and the more satisfied the score is, the higher the score is; in addition to sticky feel, the lower the score, the better.
Sample to be tested:
sample 1 the method of example 1 prepares a tremella dendrobium extract;
sample 2 comparative example 3 tremella extract at high temperature and high pressure;
sample 3 comparative example 5 tremella dendrobium extract by conventional water extraction.
Experimental results:
fig. 4 is a skin feel comparison chart of the tested sample, and from five dimensions, the tremella extract of sample 2 is too thick, has obvious sticky feel, is sticky to feel, has poor skin feel and has strong film forming feel. Compared with the sample 2 and the sample 3, the tremella dendrobium extract prepared by the preparation method can obviously improve the sticky feeling of tremella, so that the skin feeling is improved to a great extent, and the moistening feeling, the absorption speed and the slippery feeling of hands are improved to different degrees.
Fig. 5 is a diagram of skin-feel radar of different tremella dendrobe ratios (samples prepared in example 1, comparative example 1 and comparative example 2), and skin-feel is different according to different addition ratios. Compared with the comparative example, the tremella dendrobium extract prepared by the embodiment of the invention has obvious advantages in the aspects of absorption speed, slippery feeling on hands, moistening degree and sticky feeling.
The tremella dendrobium nobile extract prepared by the invention has obvious improvement on the skin feel of the obtained extract.
(IV) stability test experiment of composition
Stability test:
sample 1, sample 2 and sample 3 were filled into 80 g clear sample bottles and stored under daily conditions, and each day was observed for the occurrence of sediment before and after shaking. Meanwhile, sample 1, namely the high-temperature high-pressure tremella dendrobium extract, is placed in 6 bottles of filling environments with dark, hot, cold storage, freezing, illumination and cold-heat alternation respectively, and whether sediment is generated before and after the sample is shaken or not is observed every day.
The dendrobium extract has poor stability at the raw material end of cosmetics and is easy to precipitate. The research of the invention proves that the combination of the tremella and the dendrobium can enhance the stability of the dendrobium.
Sample to be tested:
sample 1 the method of example 1 prepares a tremella dendrobium extract;
sample 2 comparative example 4 dendrobe high temperature high pressure extract;
sample 3 comparative example 6 Dendrobium nobile extract by conventional water extraction.
Experimental results:
as shown in fig. 6, the stability was observed under normal temperature conditions. As can be seen from Table 8, the flocculent precipitate was observed by the conventional water extraction method and the high temperature and high pressure method, when the dendrobium extract was left for the third day under the daily conditions. The tremella dendrobium extract does not generate precipitate, and the tremella dendrobium extract is observed after 15 days and 30 days, and still does not generate precipitate, which indicates that the stability of the tremella dendrobium is obviously improved. In addition, the inventor observes that the stability of the tremella dendrobium extract is 30 days under different conditions, and no precipitation is found.
The stability observation result of the dendrobium extract prepared by the high-temperature high-pressure method is shown in fig. 6 (A), and the stability observation result of the dendrobium aqueous extract is shown in fig. 6 (B); the stability observation results of the tremella dendrobium extract prepared in the embodiment 1 of the invention are shown in fig. 7.
Table 8 stability observation table
(V) evaluation experiment of skin feel of jelly mask
Skin feel test:
24 women, aged 18-40 years, dry skin were recruited. The subjects tried sample 1 and sample 2 on the face, respectively, and the face was rinsed with clear water before trying sample 1 and sample 2. Scoring the primary feeling of the facial mask liquid and the face feeling and the overall feeling of the facial mask after trial. The primary feeling of the mask liquid comprises the infiltration degree of the mask cloth, the uniformity degree of the liquid on the mask cloth, the consistency of the mask liquid, the color preference degree of the mask liquid and the smell preference degree of the mask liquid; the facial feeling of the facial mask comprises moist feeling, slippery feeling, film cloth fitting degree, film cloth comfort degree and irritation; the whole feeling of the mask comprises moistening feeling, moisturizing effect, slippery feeling, absorption speed, sticky feeling and whole feeling. Each score is full of 5 points, and the more satisfied the score is, the higher the score is; the lower the score, the better, except for the stimulus and the sticky feeling.
Sample to be tested:
sample 1 example 7 jelly mask;
sample 2 comparative example 7 market bid jelly mask.
Experimental results:
fig. 8 is a schematic diagram of the skin feel radar of the mask solution of example 7 and the commercially available bid mask solution of comparative example 7, wherein the consistency of sample 1 and sample 2 is consistent in five dimensions, but the wetting degree of the mask cloth and the uniformity degree of the liquid on the mask cloth are obviously better than that of sample 2. At the same time, the color and smell of the mask liquid of the sample 1 are also more favored by the user relative to the sample 2. Compared with sample 2, the jelly mask liquid improves the infiltration degree of the mask cloth, and the mask liquid on the mask cloth is more uniform, so that the skin feel is improved to a great extent.
Fig. 9 is a diagram of the skin feel radar of the mask of example 7 and the commercially available bid product mask of comparative example 7, and from five dimensions, the effect comparison result of the mask liquid is that the moistening feel of the sample 1 and the moistening feel of the sample 2 are almost the same, the sample 1 is improved to a certain extent on slippery feel, and the sample 1 is relatively lower on irritation feel; the effect comparison result of the mask cloth is improved, and the fitting degree and the comfort level of the mask cloth of the sample 1 are obviously better than those of the sample 2. From this, compared with sample 2, the jelly mask of the invention improves the fitting degree and comfort degree of the mask cloth, and improves the slippery feel of the mask to a certain extent.
Fig. 10 is an overall evaluation radar chart of the mask of example 7 and the commercial bid mask of comparative example 7, in which the jelly mask of the present invention has different levels of improvement in moisturizing feel, slip feel, and absorption rate, and is relatively lower in irritation feel, compared with sample 2, from five dimensions. The whole skin feel of the jelly mask is obviously improved.
Test experiment of skin and consistency effects of jelly mask
Skin texture and consistency test:
6 professional cosmetic formulation technicians were selected to use sample 1, sample 2, sample 3 and sample 4, respectively, with a sample consistency status photograph maintained prior to use; when in use, the photo of the skin condition of the mask is reserved; after the use, the greasy feeling and the overall use feeling of the tested sample are evaluated, wherein the upper limit is 5, the greasy feeling is increased along with the increase of the score, the use feeling is better, and the average value of 6 testers is taken as the final result.
Sample to be tested:
sample 1 comparative example 9 blank gel;
sample 2 comparative example 7 market bid jelly mask;
sample 3 comparative example 8 water extraction technology jelly mask;
sample 4 example 7 jelly mask
Experimental results:
fig. 11 is a graph of the face mask skin conditions for comparative example 9 blank gel, comparative example 7 commercial bid, comparative example 8 and example 7, left 1 is sample 1, left 2 is sample 2, right 1 is sample 4, and right 2 is sample 3. As is evident from the figure, sample 4, example 7, the jelly mask cloth, had the best degree of wetting, the best degree of fitting on the face, and the most uniform mask solution.
Fig. 12 is a chart of the consistency of the mask liquid of comparative example 9 blank gel, comparative example 7 commercial bid, comparative example 8 and example 7. As can be seen from the figures, the jelly mask liquid consistency status of sample 1, sample 2, sample 3 and sample 4 are almost completely consistent.
The average value of the scores of the 6 testers on the sticky feel and the using feel of the tested sample is shown in table 9, and the jelly mask of the embodiment 7 can obviously improve the sticky feel of the product and obviously improve the using feel.
Table 9 evaluation of sticky feel and use feel of different samples
Comparative example 9 blank gel | Comparative example 7 market competitive jelly mask | Comparative example 8 jelly mask with water extraction technique | Example 7 jelly mask | |
Sticky feeling | 3.3 | 3.8 | 3.6 | 2.2 |
Feel in use | 2.1 | 2.6 | 2.4 | 4.1 |
(seventh) jelly mask stability test experiment
Stability test:
sample 1, namely the jelly mask liquid prepared in example 7, is filled into 7 bottles and placed in 7 environments of daily use, darkness, heat, refrigeration, freezing, illumination and cold and heat alternation respectively. During the stability observation period, judging the standard as the requirement specified in the 2015 edition of the cosmetic hygiene standard, and if obvious pungent odor appears in the stability observation period, failing the standard; if obvious color change occurs, the color is disqualified; if the pH exceeds the standard requirement, the product is not qualified.
Sample to be tested:
sample 1 the jelly mask liquid prepared in example 7.
Experimental results:
FIG. 13 is a graph of initial state stability of the sample under test, and initial state product pH5.18, conductance 1030 (. Mu.S/cm).
FIG. 14 is a graph showing the stability of the sample under 90 days, wherein the pH of the sample under 7 conditions is 5.00-5.20 after 90 days, the conductivity is 1000-1100 (mu S/cm) without obvious change, and the state is stable.
After 90 days of stability observation, the color of the product is slightly lighter under the illumination condition, but the product is acceptable in whole, and the whole state of the product is stable from the viewpoint of the state of the product during the whole stability period. The jelly mask disclosed by the invention has the advantages that the skin feel is improved, and meanwhile, the stability of a product is ensured.
Claims (13)
1. The jelly mask is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight:
the A-phase tremella dendrobium extract is prepared by a method comprising the following steps: soaking tremella and dendrobium nobile in water in a certain weight ratio, and then washing, and extracting with water to obtain tremella dendrobium nobile extract; in the extracting step, the extracting pressure is 40-130 KPa; the extraction temperature is 105-125 ℃; the extraction time is 1-4 h;
the weight ratio of the tremella to the dendrobium nobile in the A phase is tremella to dendrobium nobile m/m=1:1-5:1.
2. The jelly mask according to claim 1, wherein in the step of extracting the extract of dendrobium nobile in phase a, the extraction pressure is 40-75 KPa; the extraction temperature is 105-115 ℃; the extraction time is 1-4 h.
3. The jelly mask according to claim 1, wherein in the step of extracting the extract of dendrobium nobile in phase a, the extraction pressure is 70KPa; the extraction temperature is 115 ℃; the extraction time was 3h.
4. The jelly mask of claim 1, wherein in the step of extracting the extract of tremella nobilis, the ratio of tremella nobilis to water is 1:30-1:70.
5. The jelly mask as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein in the soaking step of the a-phase tremella dendrobium extract, the soaking temperature is 20 to 30 ℃ and the soaking time is 0.5 to 1.5 hours.
6. The jelly mask according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the a-phase humectant is a polyhydric alcohol acceptable in the field of skin care products; and/or the A-phase chelating agent is acceptable chelating agent in the field of skin care products; and/or the A phase thickener is acceptable in the field of skin care products.
7. The jelly mask as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the a-phase humectant is one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, and propylene glycol.
8. The jelly mask as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the a-phase chelating agent is one or more of sodium glucoheptonate and disodium EDTA.
9. The jelly mask according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the a-phase thickener is one or more of carrageenan and xanthan.
10. The jelly mask according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the C-phase preservative is a preservative acceptable in the field of skin care products.
11. The jelly mask according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the C-phase preservative is one or more of octanoyl hydroxamic acid/1, 2-hexanediol/1, 3-propanediol, phenoxyethanol, umarones, glyceryl caprylate/octanoyl hydroxamic acid/1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol; wherein when the phase C preservative comprises phenoxyethanol, the amount of the phenoxyethanol is not more than 1.00wt%.
12. The jelly mask according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the mask comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: the balance of tremella dendrobium extract, 4-8wt% of humectant, 0.02-0.04 wt% of chelating agent, 0.2-0.3wt% of thickening agent, 20% NaCl and/or 0.5mol/L CaCl 2 2 to 3 weight percent and 0.05 to 1 weight percent of preservative.
13. The jelly mask according to claim 1, which is prepared by a method comprising the steps of:
dispersing the phase A thickener in the humectant, and uniformly stirring;
adding the A-phase tremella dendrobium extract and other raw materials, and heating to 80-85 ℃;
cooling to below 60 ℃, adding the phase B raw material, and uniformly stirring;
and continuously cooling to room temperature, adding the C-phase raw material, and uniformly stirring to obtain the material.
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CN104257597A (en) * | 2014-09-17 | 2015-01-07 | 郑州蓬泽生物科技开发研究院 | Dendrobe beauty fluid and preparation method thereof |
CN105707628A (en) * | 2016-03-11 | 2016-06-29 | 三株福尔制药有限公司 | Probiotic fermentation dendrobium officinale protocorm composition and preparation method thereof |
CN106265339A (en) * | 2016-09-14 | 2017-01-04 | 叶树林 | A kind of six hours high-efficiency moisturizing compositions and preparation thereof and application |
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CN104257597A (en) * | 2014-09-17 | 2015-01-07 | 郑州蓬泽生物科技开发研究院 | Dendrobe beauty fluid and preparation method thereof |
CN105707628A (en) * | 2016-03-11 | 2016-06-29 | 三株福尔制药有限公司 | Probiotic fermentation dendrobium officinale protocorm composition and preparation method thereof |
CN106265339A (en) * | 2016-09-14 | 2017-01-04 | 叶树林 | A kind of six hours high-efficiency moisturizing compositions and preparation thereof and application |
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